The Syracuse Journal, Volume 20, Number 48, Syracuse, Kosciusko County, 28 March 1929 — Page 2

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4 By ELMO SCOTT WATSON A S THE annual ‘‘Easter dress parade" is staged in every city and town in the . United States on March 31 C (\vhich is the date of Easter this year), it is estimated by experts in ,l,e United States Department of •XT/jf Commerce that an investment of somewhere between $1,500,000,000 H and in fine raiment will have been displayed by the \ “richest nation on earth” on the two “dress-up” days of Palm Sunday and and Easter Sunday. What is the meaning of all this lavish showing of clothing and millinery? , <L g» The simplest answer is to point to the fundamental facts about Easter and see how those facts can be related to a development which often seems inconsistent with the real spirit of Easter. The essential idea of Easter is shared by Christian and pagan alike. It is the idja of “resurrection,” of revived life after apparent death. It marks the climax of the year when all nature awakes from sleep, throws off the death-like chill of winter and begins to live anew. With all nature pointing the way by bedecking herself in n v. raiment, it is only natural that mankind should also celebrate the surge of renewed life » by putting on new apparel. So when milady appears at church on Easter Sunday in a new frock and a new hat, it is not mere human vanity expressing itself. She puts them’on because she must I She has responded to the fundamental instinct by responding thus to the call of spring, to the message of renewed life. There is an old British tradition that it is “good luck to wear something new on Easter day.” but that is a mere outgrowth of the essential idea of the Eastertide. 1 All of which is a simple and entirely logical reason for the feminine display of new clothes on Easter day. But it is by no means a complete explanation for it doesi not tell why there «has developed in this such an expensive method of satisfying the priijial spring urge nor why such a colossal sum is spent on women’s clothing at this season, despite the fact that their clothing is as scanty-if not scantier than ever before. If the Easter dress parade was entirely in keeping with the traditional idea of “wearing something new on Easter day.” it would be a parade of new clothes which might be inexpensive as well as nes. But the fact is that it has become an exhibition of national opulence and as such apparently more emphasis is being laid upon the word “expensive” than upon the word “new.” i In these days when the psychologists have an explanation for everything we do, think and feel, it may be well to go to those learned gentlemen for an explanation of the Easter dress parade. If you do that they will tell you that in order to arrive at an understanding of the psychological problem of clothing you must go back to the “origins” and takg into account four important theories as to those origins. They are as follows: First. The modesty theory. This theory, familiar from the legend of the Garden of Eden, holds that .clothing was originally donned to conceal, from a sense of shame, modesty or embarrassment Second. The immodesty theory. This maintains that the purpose of clothing in the beginning was to make the wearer a greater object of interest to the opposite sex. This is the doctrine that familiarity breeds indifference and that concealment increases interest. Third. The theory that!* clothing begins in the desire to attract attention or secure pre-eminence. The primitive clothing, on this theory, is conspicuous for ornamentation. Fourth. The utility or protection theory. The supposition that clothing had its origin in attempts to protect the body -from injurious or unpleasant features of the environment would seem to be the most obvious one, but for various reasons has had little standing among the anthropological theorists. It is easy to see that neither the first, second nor fourth theories in regard to clothing Is an adequate explanation for the Easter parade. If anyone of the four can fie logically applied it must be the third—the theory I hat the Easter parade is to “attract attention or secure preeminence, since “the primitive clothing, on this theory, is conspicuous for ornamentation." However, before assuming that this theory is the final explanation of milady’s desire for new raiment at Easter time, it may be well to hear a discussion of these theories by one of the eminent psychologists of the country—Dr. Knight

Moles Long Cherished as Marks of Beauty For centuries, tt would seem,' moles Certain It Is that Anne Boleyn had have been considered a real mark of a lovely ccmplexion/and the courtiers beauty. The truth of the matter is, of the time referred to her as “fresh of course, that some people with moles and young ” are ravishingly lovely to look at, and Santa Teresa’s three moles have some are as ugly as they can be. come down tn history and so far from Wyatt a poet and artist of the court- "being looked upon as a blemish on of Henry Vlll, says of Anne Boleyn, her beautiful face, they were eonsld“Likewise there were said to be upon ered a contribution to her beauty. The certain parts of her body small moles, biographer leaves nothing to our 1mIncident to the clearest complexions.” agination and tells us that "she bad

11,-1 • &■' J Xsß ; jrjt\ * gig J "11 fii 1 Ji' • - |.» BB 1- x 'j|w A.nH|HL WW" wk ’HF Jin £a.sier Par-ade in ffoHand f Above—The photograph was made on Easter Sunday, 19)15. Fourteen years ago the world was steeped in the blood of war, but when Eastertide came around, thoughts turned to dress and fashion, to the glory, not of the battlefield, but of the Easter parade. Fifth avenue, the mart of fashion, witnessed a queer procession that Easter Sunday. Motor cars were then first attaining real notice. True, the streamline body had not yet made its appearance, but horses no longer snorted and stamped when a car chugged past in the parade. Those on the sidewalks no longer stared at the peculiar horseless contraptions. Dresses were long, very long, and petticoats were bulky. Hats were big, gaily decorated with feathers. Women wore high shoes, then, and gaiters or spats were the fashion. Fur neckpieces were all sizes and women carried large and roomy muffs, a relic scarcely seen these days. . . . A brief span in the time of the world—fourteen years, but see the difference in the trend of fashion when society parades on Fifth avenue or in any other city this coming Easter Sunday. Then look at this picture. It was made only fourteen years ago, but one might well believe it was taken thirty years ago. The world does move fast. . . Below—On this day the children carry little statues of birds made out of pastry. They go from house to house and collect coins. , <«' <s> —■

Dunlap of Johns Hopkins university. He says: The modesty theory has probably had the greatest vogue in modern civilization, through its having crept into popular religion and so having been , connected with moral prejudices. Eve and her fig v leaves still trouble popular moralists and bob up in police regulations. It may sound merely facetious, but it is both metaphorically and literally true to say that every time woman shortens her skirts the moralists shiver. Yet this is not the only* way in which she has frightened them with her clothes. Some years ago. shoulder puffs and baggy sleeves were denounced as indecent and ungodly. The shudders over the one-piece bathing suit have not yet subsided, in spite of the valiant missionary work of Mack Sennett. That bobbing the hair flaunted indecency, threatened the foundations of morality and endangered the sanctity of the home even the college freshman can remember. He probably does not know, however, that not many years ago putting up the hair on top of the head was also looked upon with fear and indignation. The obvious failures of regulatory measures in the past, and the equally obvious certainty that if women decide to discard clothing entirely they will do so, in spite of selectmen’s ordinances and the protests of clergy and press, seem to convey no lesson to the weaker brethren. As a matter of observable fact, the connection . between clothing and modesty is a simple one. Any degree of clothing, including complete nudity, is perfectly modest as soon as we become thoroughly accustomed to it. Conversely, any change in clothing, suddenly effected, may be immodest if it is of such a nature as to be conspicuous. It is merely the breaking of the established convention which makes it immodest. The first and second theories go down together. There is today no reasonable doubt that clothing has nothing intrinsically to do with modesty or immodesty. The third theory, the theory of adornment, is perplexing. It involves the curious assumption that adornment is self explanatory. The theorists offer more or less vague amplifications of the conception of adornment, in terms of “extension of personality,” “aggrandizement" and so on, but when their phraseology is sifted down to matter-of-fact statements, they have really nothing to offer except the assumption that clothing is worn to make the wearer conspicuous. f We may grant the human tendency to seek the limelight, the desire for pre-eminence; and we may grant the influence of this In the development of clothing and adornment. But that conspicuousness is attained by adornment when every member of the group wears the same attire or ornaments cannot be granted. If the simple desire for consptcuousness were operating, the individual who should omit the ornament would be the most successful. She would, in fact, be the most conspicuous; but she doesn’t do it. It is reasonable to conclude that there is a rea-

THE SYRACUSE JOURNAL, SYRACUSE, INDIANA

three moles on her left cheek which became her much —one below the bridge of the nose, another between her nose and mouth and a third below her mouth," Muffs Once a Part of Masculine Dress Men of Vienna wore muffs and the women dressed in masculine overcoats in the early Nineteenth century, according to Newman Flower, who describes the birthplace of Franz Schu-

son back of the adorning; that ornament is not > | simple “instinctive” product, requiring no explanation, but that it requires to- be explained along witl , clothing. The fourth theory, which maintains that clothing i was introduced pi imarily j for purposes of protection, has been in disfavor, because it has not been easy to see how the most typical primitive clothing really affords any protection. The costume of ; the Eskimo protects from cold. Heavy skin cloaks i or karosses of other peoples are worn to protect i from rain and cold. Sandals, leggings, arm bandages : and similar paraphernalia are undoubtedly de- ! veloped as protection from stones, thorns and | brambles. But these are really minor details in the ' development of dress. For most savages, and probably for primitive ! man, protection against cold is only an occasional 1 matter, and many races make no effort to protect | themselves by clothing, even though inhabiting | climates where cold is encountered; and yet these races develop clothing of a characteristic sort. Sanddls, leggings and arm protectors, too, are incidental, put on and discarded in conformity with the occupations of the savages. Costume exists quite aside from these forms of protection and apparently was developed before these. The most characteristic types of costume of savage races, types which are believed to be truly primitive, are really represented by the fig leaves of the Babylonian legend. Skirts and aprons of grass and leaves, bunches of leaves, give no protection from cold, neither do they protect from thorns and brambles or to any great extent from the sun. Why, then, have these, types of clothing been so widely and primitively developed, if not for concealment from the eyes of other people? The fact that the peoples who wear these garments put no emphasis on concealment, but at times discard the garments completely, and the fact that where there is a costume which cannot be discarded in public it is apt to be some nonconcealing article such as a string of beads around the waist, dispose of these explanations, and apparently leave nothing but the unsatisfactory adornment theory in the field. Man has a group of adversaries from whom protection is an acute need, especially in the warmer climates in which man undoubtedly originated and in which large groups of savages live today. The origin of clothing, properly so called, can then b.e ascribed to the human need for protection from unpleasant agencies, although other factors have entered into its further development' Sb there you are! Judging from this psychologist’s remarks on the third theory of tin. origin of clothing, not even this one may be applied to the Easter fashion parade. At least, it can’t be done so “logically." Then,how account sot it? Perhaps, after all the easiest way to account for it is to say that milady has made the Easter parade a national institution “because she wauts to.” As for the logic of it—well, she doesn't have to be logical unless she “wants to,” does she?

bert In his biography of that great composer, published by Frederick Stokes. In the fashionable quarter of Vienna one saw numbers of women sitting cross-legged on the ground and wearing jack boots. These were the barbers, who clipped and shaved the poodle dogs. Franz Schubert, who died on November 19, 1828, at the age of thirty-one, left 1,100 compositions, six pairs of boots, one hat, 13 pairs of socks, other clothing and bedding, valued, according to the official inventory, at $lO.

Series of Tests on Tuberculosis

Studies With “B. C. G ” Cultures Show Them to Be Quite Valueless. (Prepared by the United States Department of Agriculture.) A series of experiments with guinea pigs, chickens, rabbits, and cattle to test the value of a method for producing immunity against tuberculosis has yielded negative results, the bureau of animal industry of the United States Department of Agriculture announces. The method unde>- investigation involved the use of a culture of Bacillus Calmette-Guerin obtained in 1924 from the Pasteur institute, Paris. The organism, originally «ultured from a bovine tuberculous lesion, is claimed to confer considerable immunity against tuberculosis in the body of animals vaccinated with the R. C. G. culture, as it is commonly called. Director of Experiments. The bureau's experiments were directed by the late Dr. E. C. Schroeder, superintendent of the United States experiment station. Bethesda. Md.. and were largely concluded prior to his death in 1925. His colleague in the experiment was Dr. A. B. Crawford, of the same station. Extensive public interest in eradicating tuberculosis from live stock makes the investigation of a proposed- new method for combating tuberculosis of unusual interest Though highly technical. tlie essential conclusions and summary of the tests are briefly as follows: Vaccination of guinea pigs with B. C. G- conferred on them a slight resistance to the spread of tuberculosis, but not a true .immunity as shown by the fact that practically all animals so treated died of tuberculosis and that the generalization of the disease was merely delayed. Experiments with cattle showed B. C. G. to be of a mammalian tubercle bacillus of very low virulence. Cattle vaccinated with the product and later exposed to ordinary tubercle bacilli readily contracted tuberculosis. No Immunity Manifested. Exposure was made by several meth ods. including intravenous injection, subcutaneous injection, feeding, and contact with known ndierculous animals. In general the vaccinated cattle showed less extensive lesions of tuberculosis than unvaccinated control cattle. In no group was there manifest an immunity, as measured by the prevention of infection. According to the conclusions of Doctors Schroeder and Crawford, the vaccination of cattle with B. C. G. has no value as a means of eradicating tuberculosis in live stock. Farmer Should Consider ♦ Mixed Feeds for Dairy Farmers requirements for feed need not be confined to the cereal grains and their by-products as such. Mixed feeds of standard quality varying in protein content are available everywhere and these should always be

SUGAR BEET GROWERS SAVE MAN LABOR BY USE OF IMPLEMENTS

Expense Reduced by Use of Larger Equipment. (Prepared by the United States Department of Agrriculture.) Man labor is by far the largest item of expense in sugar-beet production — an item of expense that is being reduced in many districts .by use of larger equipment that enables more work to be done per man in a given time. Farm management specialists of the United States Department of Agriculture have made a study of labor requirements for various operations in tiie sugar-beet growing regions of Michigan, Ohio, Colorado, Montana, Utah, Idaho, and California. In Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1042-F, “Saving Man Labor in Sugar-Beet Fields,” just issued by the department, they tell how man labor can be saved and production speeded up through the use of large machines and large units of power. In many districts plowing with a unit consisting of a single-bottom plow, one man and two horses; if the work were done with a two-bottom four-horse plow and one man. twice as much ground could be covered by one man in the same time. The same comparison is true of a number bf other operations in sugar-beet production. such as cultivating, harrowing, lifting, and hauling. Larger units and more power than commonly employed could be used in many instances with Trim Ewe’s Hoofs It is well to trim the hoofs of the ewes so that they may walk comfortably. A sharp £nife and a pair of pruning shears are satisfactory tools tor this work. Some of the ewes will probably become wool-blind, because of excessive wool covering about the eyes, and the shepherd should go over i the flock with a pair of hand sheep shears, occasionally, clipping off the wool from around the eyes of those sheep that have excessive face covering.

Attention to Feet The hoofs of the growing colt must be given careful attention- if they are to grow into ideal shape and afford a sure and level foundation for the horse. When left to nature and colts ran out the year around on all sorts ! of ground, the hoofs wore down normally, the worn parts being replaced by new growth. In such conditions the frogs came in contact with the ground as “shock absorbers” and kept the heels apart.

considered in buying. A farmer may have corn and find it difficult to buy oats except in carload lots. He could buy the necessary amount of a 24 per cent protein mixed feed to meet his requirements, mixing it with ground corn in the correct proportion for a mixture suitable to the roughage fed. A farmer may have corn, oats and barley and plenty of legume hay and silage. Hjs need is for protein and for variety in the concentrates mixtures. A 32 per cent protein mixed feed yielding about 28 per cent of digestible protein would go well with the home-grown grains. Overcrowding Poults Is Cause of Much Trouble “Do not overcrowd poufe. They will develop more uniformly when given sufficient space. For a brooder house measuring 10 by 12 feet in size, 120 poults is the most satisfactory capacity. In other words one poult to every square foot. Turkey raisers during recent years have been raising about 100- turkeys per acre successfully. It is a good plan to rotate the yards for the turkeys if possible because the success with turkeys depends to a great extent upon keeping the stock free from disease. Considerable loss in turkey production can be traced to worm infestation, in fact, intestinal parasites cause great, if not greater damage with turkeys than with poultry. Milking Machines Found Profitable in a Test In a three-year test witi? a herd varying from 20 to 25 cows on a midwestern state College dairy farm, milking machines saved 52.1 per cent in labor alone. This figure included the added time spent in washing and caring for the milking machines and utensils. 79 minutes per day where machines were used and 33 minutes in the case of hand milking. Hand milking required 44.4 hours of labor per week while milking machines cut that figure to 20.6 hours. Four men were used during the periods of hand milking but two men with two units each did the work when the herd was milked mechanically. Wire Bottom for Nests Is of Much Advantage Many poultrymen are now building nests in their laying houses with a fine wire mesh for the bottom instead of the usual board nests. There are two principal advantages which are set forth for this practice. The first is that such nests will be freer of mites on account of the fine dust from the straw or other litter dropping through, and the second is that there will be fewer broken eggs. Nests which are constructed on this plan may be easily sprayed for mites, which is an advantage in their favor. When the straw gets low in the nests eggs will be so easily broken as they would in board nests.

the result that more work could be done by one man. The bulletin is well illustrated to show comparisons of the differentsized units of power and the respective saving of man labor for the larger units. A copy of the bulletin may be obtained by writing to the United ! States Department of Agriculture, Washington. D. C. t Around the Farm t 1 1 ii;r; i;:11: ni::::t:1111 One of the best ways in the world to sell pork is through the cured meat route. • * • If you have idle land on your farm it will pay you in the long run to start some trees on it. • • • Timothy hay is not a suitable rough- ! age for sheep, unless supplemented with bran and pea-sized linseed meal. • • • Clemson college sagely reminds us that a fertile mind is no less important to profitable farming than a fertile sod. * • * The ability to attend to details measures the success in brooding. Equipment must be ready and adequate, conditions must be right, and the routine of operation must be accurate, prompt and careful. * # * Sows with second or third titters can be counted on to farrow and save nearly two pigs more per litter than gilts with their first litter. Where there jkre several sows together. it frequently happens that there is one in the herd that is cross and that fights the others. Remove the offending one at once. « • • Although figures show that the volume of wood grown is rapidly diminishing. the situation could well be helped if each farmer with idle land started a woodlot this spring. Good Grain Storage The resulting saving from good grain storage facilities would pay big dividends on the capital invested In granaries, cribs and barns and, in addition, would save much of the drudgery of- handling the stored products. As evidence it may be pointed out, that in the grain belt the modern crib with elevating machinery has taken the backache out of corn handling and at the same time Shs furnished safe, economical storage.

What Will you do z', "t/’hA'-' J Whenyowr Children Ciy / for It There is hardly a household that hasn't heard of Castoria! At least five million homes are never without it. It there are children in your family, there’s almost daily need of its comfort. And any night may fihd you very thankful there's a bottle in the house. Just a few drops, and that colic or constipation is relieved; or diarrhea checked. A vegetable product; a baby remedy meant for young folks. Castoria is about the only thing you have ever heard doctors advise giving to infants. Stronger medicines are dangerous to a tiny baby, however harmless they may be to grown-ups. Good old Castoria I Remember the name, and Remember to buy it. It may spare you a sleepless, anxious night. It is always ready, always safe to use; in emergencies, or for everyday ailments. Any hour of the day or night that Baby become.s fretful, or restless. Castoria was never more popular with mothers than it is today. Every druggist has it.

C AS TORI A]

Hanford’s Balsam of Myrrb A Healing Antiseptic Money back for Ont bottle If not suited. All dealers, peel (}ood Most ailments start from poor elimination (constipation tv semi-constipation). Intestinal poisons sap vitality, undermine health and make life miserable. Tonight try OR — Nature’s Remedy—all-vegetable corrective —not just an ordinary laxative. See how fR will aid in restoring your appetite and rid you of that heavy, Ipggy. pepless feeling. Mild, safe, purely vegetable— At Druggists—only 25c PARKER’S HAIR BALSAM BemovesOandrua-StopsHairFaUiag Restores Color and Beauty to Gray and Faded Hah SOc. and SI.OO at Druggists. Hiseox Chem. Wks. Patchogue. K V. FLORESTON SHAMPOO-Ideal for use in connection with Parker’s Hair Balsam. Makes toe hair soft and fluffy. 50 cents by mail or at druggists. Hiscox Chemical Works, Patchogue, N. X. Norway Bans Big Estates The large percentage of small farms owned by the farmers has demonstrated the success in the effort to- discourage big estates in Norway. This is credited to the unique law that makes it possible for a farmer, or his descendants, to repurchase, within a certain time, any property that cir-, cumstanees have forced him to sell. You Get Strong, If You c-. are a tiredout or “rundown” woman, by taking Doctor Pierce’s Favorite Prescription. Women by the thousands write letters like •fit am glad to tell what Dr. Pierce’s Favorite Prescription has done for me. I took 3 bottles of the ‘Prescription’ during expectancy and. am the proud mother of a nine-pound girl at birth. I was sick only a few hours. I will gladly recommend Dr. Pierce’s Favorite Prescription to all my friends.”—-Mrs. Ernest R. Landis. Rural Route 3, Coal City, Ind. The use of “Favorite Prescription” nas made many women happy by making them healthy. Get it from your druggist, liquid or tablets. Write Dr. Pierce’s Invalids Hotel in Buffalo, N. Y., for free advice. Send 10c if you want a trial package of tablets. On With the Dance! “Do you enjoy dancing?” “Very much,” answered Miss Cayenne. “A good little jazz band prevents conversation and enables a friend who might be talkative to employ his feet instead of trying to use his mind.”—Washington Star. When one is timid, he can sometimes con<*eal it under the guise of good nature.

| WHAT WILL IT DO? |

Women are saying: "Pinkham’s Compound keeps me fit to do my work.’* "I was nervous and all run down. Now I eat better and sleep better —"It helped my thirteen year old daughter.” —“I took it before and after my baby was born.” —“I am gaining every day.”

I Lydia E. Pinkham’s Vegetable Compound |

Garfield Tea Was Your Grandmother’s Remedy BFor every stomach and intestinal ill. Tips good old-fash-ioned herb home remedy for constipation, stomach Ills and other derangements of the system so prevalent these days is in even greater favor as a family medicine than in your grandmother’s day.