The Syracuse Journal, Volume 20, Number 49, Syracuse, Kosciusko County, 5 April 1928 — Page 2

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By ELMO SCOTT WATSON

HEN milady steps out in all of her new raiment and takes part in the annual Easter parade, let not mere man make caustic remarks about women being slaves to fashion and unhappy unless they are clad 1 in the dernier cri of fashion. For there was a time when man himself went in for gaudy display of wearing apparel. In fact, a review of men’s styles through the ages, such as was given at the recent style show for both men and women.

staged in Chicago by the National Association of Retail Clothiers and Furnishers and the Fashion Art League of America, showed that it has been only within comparatively recent times that he has been content to wear such sober garments as “the conventional black” and leave it to his mate to be the bird of fine feathers in the household. A “pictorial review” of men’s styles, such as was presented by J. Frederick Schafer of Chicago before a convention of the International Associa- ' raO /uv\ / 5 * tion of Clothing Designers in Cincinnati not so long ago, reveals the fact that men’s styles have, if anything, been even more changeable than women’s. At first, especially in warm climates, men wore clothing (if any) not so much for protection as for decoration. The gentleman, whose portrait is shown above (No. 1) and who lived about 10.000 B. C., had for his costume what some unknown poet has described thus: the King and his people were black as shoes Because that the climate was torrid; And all that they wore was a ring through the nose. And a patch of green paint on the forehead. Rut paint and crude bits of jewelry, put on to frighten their enemies, to impress their neighbors or to woo their sweethearts, are not properly clothes, so the first real article of clothing that marks the beginning of men’s styles was the simple breech-clout. When warmth and modesty began to be consideration in how men should dress, he met the situation by using animal skins, thrown across one shoulder and fastened with a thorn under the other arm. thus leaving the fight4 ing arm free to wield a weapon. And it is more than likely that the favorite skin which he wore was the brilliantly striped tiger pelt or the attractive spotted skin of the leopard and that his woman had to be content with the less ous peltries. The next step forward was when man discovered that fibers stripped from trees and felted together in some crude way made an adequate substitute for skins, even though it must have been somewhat “scratchy.” But somewhere back in the dim vistas of time he learned the art of weaving and the sister art of dyeing so that he Vegan to make handsome, durable and fine fabrics from cotton, flax, wool and silk and to color them. The Lydians'gave to mankind the famous Tyrian purple, which became the badge of royalty and the ancient Egyptians added their bit to dress decoration. About 1600 B. C. these people were wearing a garment called the kalasifis (No. 2), a long, straight hanging, rather close-fitting garment, both with and without sleeves, which looked something like the modern kimono. The ancient —— j Zjl W IZ\ J Greeks improved upon this costume somewhat with their simple unics (No. 3) fastened at the shoulder and held in at the waist with a girdle. The Romans, however, went in more for the long, loose and flowing robes, and the toga of the highclass Roman was dear to his heart. It was of ample proportions, as much as 18 feet wide and banded with purple to indicate high rank. Adjusting the toga was no simple matter. It was circular, folded almost in half and then draped th a formal and elaborate fashion. Although the Romans despised bifurcated garments (which is a polite way of saying “pants”) as being the mark of slaves, Roman soldiers.

Menu Calculated to Make Dyspeptic Weep

- The time-worn expression, “he eat» like a thresher,” has been found the height of futility in comparisons. At the eighteenth annual convention of state threshermen at Cleveland, Ohio, it developed that only a thresher eats like a thresher, and all other pretenders are unversed amateurs in the art of eating. A regular meal for a full-fledged

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after the First century A. D., wore a primitive sort of trousers, which were rather tight and came down only to the calves of the legs. The Roman paentila, worn from the Second to the Fifth centuries, was a cape-like garment, probably a development of the toga, which dropped down over the head and fell in folds in front and behind. The tunic replaced the toga for the reason no doubt that it was simpler and allowed greater freedom of movement. This is an example of the way in which men’s clothes have varied from time to time to conform to their chief interests. When action and fighting were their principal activity, their garments were simple, loose-fitting and short, but when security and idleness predominated, their clothes, tn the earlier ages, were long, .ull and cumbersome, and later very tight, necessitating short mincing steps and dainty movements. The clothing of men in central and western Europe shows the Roman influence with variations, characteristic of their times and their race. In the costume of the Frankish citizen (No. 4), worn A. D. 400 to GOO, may be seen the familiar tunic, but the sleeves are gathered at the wrists, there is an embroidered girdle and embroidery at the bottom of the tunic and short trousers are worn under the stockings. A cloak (No. 5) fastened at the right shoulder with a clasp completes the costume. From the Eleventh to the Thirteenth century clothing such as shown // f) in No. 6 was worn. The upper garment, a descendant of the tunic as the pdurpoint, had become SO ’ short that finally it was just about long enough to cover the body. The lower garments were tights, made of an elastic material, similar to the modern jersey. If the costume of the Frenchman of this period is comparatively simple, his German brother (No. 7) more than made up for it with his display. Although the coat of this German burgher of , the Twelfth century is long, it Is divided front and back up the body so as to drape on each side when he was riding. With a wealth of handsome materials to choose from, he adorned himself with tlus costume wish its different patterns of goods used on the right and left sides and the ornamented sleeves and cuffs. The costume of the French workman of the Fourteenth, century (No. 8) shows not only a development of the combination hood and cape which the French called “capuchon” and the German “kapuze,” but it also shows the increasing tendency to tightness of tit? trousers. Heretofore not so much attention was paid to this article of dress, but as the tunic became shorter jlm ■ * ’ it was necessary to pay more attention to having a sightly pair of nether garments. The tunic was red, held in by a black steel-trimmed girdle, the hat was black, the capuchon green and the trousers were gray and continued to the feet with leather sewed on the soles. So with this array of colors, the French workman of 500 years ago presented a decided contrast to the blue overalls and jumpers of the workman of today. , The German patrician’s costume (No. 9), common about 1500, is an example of the erminetrimmed tunic which was slipped over the head. It was also a gay array of colors—the tunic emerald green, the leather belt red, the “hosen” orange red. anti the shoes and hat dark green. Not quite so “fussy,” more artistic, but equally gay as to color is that of the Venetian youth (No. 10) with his brick red cap and tights, his gold collar clasp and necklet and his crimson velvet cape lined with blue brocaded velvet. The young Englishman of the Sixteenth century (No. 11) improved upon this costume with his striped trunks of Spanish style, his long, pointed shoes, his corslet of leather or steel, his scalloped collar, and the jaunty feather in his hat. Although the English style in trunks appears gay enough, it was mild in comparison to those affected in Spain where Ji* fashion~was so extreme that in order to hold the trunks in shape the young Spanish swells stuffed them with wool or cotton. Sometimes they extended nine inches from the body and were slashed lengthwise from top to bottom, with insertions of contrasting colors in

thresher, according to experts of the trade, consists of four potatoes, two large spoonfuls of beans, half a chicken, all smothered with onions and submerged by a covering of gravy; a generous helping of potpie, additional helpings of other meats which may be on the table, a large dish of stewed corn, six slices of bread and a quarter pound of butter, a dish of some kind of fruit, a relish, a half glass

of jelly, half a pie and two pieces of cake. Sees War Thit Year That the next World war will start on May 28, 1928, and continue until September 16, 1936, was the prediction of Basil Stewart at the annual meeting of the British Israelites, recently held at London. “This date is foretold in exactly the same way as was August 14, 1914, through the symbolism of the Great pyramid, which

THE SYRACUSE JOURNATa

the slashes. The Swedish gentleman of that period (No. 12) wore a costume in which the/ clothes designers of his time used a great deal, of imagination, as witness the puffy red and white striped sleeves on the yellow surcoat, the red trousers, the white vest and gauntlets and olive sash, a brown hat with a plume and swaggering soft leather boots, and a starched Elizabethan ruffed collar. Americans who may be inclined to laugh at the foregoing costumes may well take a look at I ' 1 ft* l",. Noi 13 and reflect that if their ancestors were ! members of Capt. John Smith’s Virginian colony j they would be wearing just such an outfit as i that. It consisted of a doublet with long oversleeves hanging from the shoulders, padded breeches fastened wish “points” of colored velvet i or cloth, collar and cuffs of starched linen, siik stockings fastened with garters tied in a bow, I felt hat with embroidered band and plume, low shoes tied with laces and gauntlets of soft ■ leather. Or if they trace their ancestry from the patroons of New Amsterdam they can see tn No. 14 how that ancestor dressed. Shades of the simple three-button sack coat of today! "If they can claim among their ancestors a signer of the Declaration of Independence it is probable that he wore such an outfit as is shown in No. ' 15, when he stepped forward to sign that immortal document. The coHarless coat was plain, but the j ornamentation was provided by a waistcoat of i contrasting color, a white neckcloth with a ; starched frill tucked into the vest, velvet cuffs on . the coat slee.es and shirt sleeves made of soft ■ cambric, having frilled extensions which fell down over the hands. Men’s clothing in the early days of the Re‘/fw /z 1 B -XJ H n public was a combination of survivals from the foppishness of colonial times and of the simple more or less standardized suits of today. The costume (No. 16) prevalent during the first half of the Nineteenth century is colonial in its knee breeches, stock tie and cocked hat, but the coat is of the type of such future garments : that were to be adopted. Over in France at about I the time ,of the French Revolution the type of i coat known as the swallow tail or pen point (No. j 17) becam^ 1 popular and it was also worn in England and jjpited States with a few modi- j fications. The the lapel of this coat : marks the origin in the collar as we know it today and ’hi 4Lher respects it was a logical forebear to thb shown in No. 18. Here Americans definitely assumed long trousers and this Chesterfield outfit was popular with the good dressers of 1840 to ISSO. The next period in American men’s clothing is shown in No. 19, a typical example of men’s styles at the time of the Civil war. Showing the j influence of the Victorian era when beauty was j I s apparently taboo and all that was ugly in houses and furniture and so-called art was allowed full development, this Costume brings us down to the present age of standardization. It is a protest against this standardization which causes the uprising of such freak styles as that shown in No. 20—the “patent-haired” young sheik with his slashed, bell-bottomed trousers, his tight-fit-ting coat, extravagant cuffs, gaudy shirt, sash belt and sport shoes. If you are inclined to laugh at costumes * No. 1 to 19 think how the wearers of those costumes would laugh at No. 20!

gives us tn the language of geometry, a chronological chart of history, though it does not actually specify the event,” he said. “By combining the prophetic forecasts of the Bible with the chronological forecasts of the Great pyramid, however, jye can foresee the future. The last time the symbolical stone was HmestoiTe and this time it is granite, which means a far harder struggle on a much bigger scale." He added that Great Britain and her colonies will win, and that Russia will be wiped out.

c77ie DAIRY. BARLEY VS. CORN FOR DAIRY COWS The 1927 acreage of barley in lowa was considerably larger than that of 1926. Reports credited lowa with 268,000 acres in 1926 and 429,000 on September 1, 1927. The total production in 1927 was nearly twice that of 1926. It is generally considered that ground barley is equal, pound for pound, to ground corn as a part of a well balanced grain mixture for milk cows. In fact, carefully conducted tests at some of our experiment stations have corroborated this general assumption. /Last summer the Michigan experirinent station, realizing that the barley acreage was increasing in that state, conducted another test with corn and barley. Two tots of cows were fed, each composed of five head. Lot 1 was given a grain mixture of 400 pounds ground corn, 300 pounds ground oats and 100 pounds linseed meal. Os this the cows, which were Holsteins, were fed at the rate of one pound for each three and one-half pounds of milk produced per day. In the way of roughage they were given daily one pound of alfalfa hay and three pounds of corn silage per 100 pounds live weight. Lot 2 was fed the same grain mixture, except that in place of 400 pounds ground corn, 400 pounds of ground barley was substituted. Lot 1 was fed the corn mixture for a period of 20 days, while lot 2 was fed the barley mixture for the -same length of time. Then the rations were switched and lot 1 was fed the barley mixture for a period of 20 days while lot 2 was fed the corn mixture. After summing up the production for these periods, the conclusion was reached that barley gave as good results, pound for pound, as the corn mixture. This test may therefore be considered as additional evidence of the equality in the feeding value of these two grains for milk cows. Tuberculin Testing Has Gone Forward Very Fast (Prepared by the United States Department of Agriculture.) The results of co-operative tuber-culosis-eradication work up to January 1, 1928, given, in a summary issued by the bureau of animal industry, United States Department of Agriculture, show unusual progress in combating this, disease. Following are totals for the United States, representing the status of various lines of work at the beginning of 1928: Cattle under supervision ....19 299.094 Cattle in accredited herds ... 2,024,505 Cattle on waiting list for testing - - 4,103,386 Cattle tested during Dec. 1927 935 984 Reactors detected'ln Dec. ... 18,966 Counties recognized as modified accredited areas (infection not more than per cent) 436 Towns having not more than % per cent infection 16 The work of tuberculin testing tas been going forward with unusual rapidity in recent months. The number of cattle tested monthly nas ranged from about 900,000 to more than a million. The large number of cattle on the waiting list to be tested is regarded as evidence of the desire of live stock owners to avail them selves of the opportunity t 6 free their herds from tuberculosis. Silage Most Economical Feed for the Dairy Cow Use home-grown feeds as far as possible. Alfalfa or other legume hay is best. For most economical production, provide silage. Feed one pound of hay and three pounds of silage for each,loo pounds weight of animal. If silage is not available, feed two pounds of hay for each 100 pounds weight. Use a good grain mixture containing a small amount of cottonseed meal or linseed meal. Feed one pound of grain mixture for each three pints or pounds of milk production daily by the cow. Dairy Facts A cow must have three quarts of water for every quart of milk she produces. • • • Comfortably warm barns in which it never freezes add much to the success in dairying. o • • * Well lighted, well ventilated stables insure health and good work on the part of the cows. • * • Reserve the best feeds for fresh cows, but do not let dry cows become thin in flesh. Cows that are thin at calving time never have a chance to do their best. • • • It doesn’t sound reasonable, but a Purdue dairy expert is> of the opinion that good cows are increasing more rapidly than good dairymen. ♦ * • The adding of a little linseed meal to the dairy ration often improves the quality of the butter, particularly if the ration produces tallowy butter. • • • Calves that are weak, either from vitality when dropped, or from improper care and feeding, are more apt to contract the disease than calves that are healthy and vigorous. ♦ * * Home-grown feed fed to homeraised cows —good rations and good animals —is the groundwork of dairy profits. • • • At the lowa station, the daughters of scrub cows from a pure-bred sire gave 66 pounds more butter fat than their scrub dams. • • • It does not pay to turn cows into yards and compel them to remain outside for a longer time than they appear to enjoy it. It costs feed to keep cows warm.

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Education by Mail To meet educational needs of families living in remote parts of Manitoba and of children unable on account of physical handicap to a system of correspondence instruction has been inaugurated by the provincial department of education. It is estimated that about every fourth person in the province of Manitoba is seeking by study to reach a higher educational standard. j In Saskatchewan, where an outpost’s correspondence school has been maintained for two and a half years, en- ; rollment has readied 247. It is believed that about 20 per cent of the students are of foreign extraction. AH of the pictures in the famous Louvre gallery at Paris are being tested by X-rays to detect alterations, and to expose fakes.

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Rebuilding Bergen Barracks are being replaced by new buildings in the central part of Bergen, Norway, which was destroyed by tire In 1916. 'Shopkeepers and business men have used the temporary struc tures, while residents have been forced by the thousands to use some sort of improvised shelter, for living places. Helping the Action Harry—But 1 can’t hit harder. Boxing Professor—Sure you can. Punch as hard as if I had taken a fancy to your sweetheart and had stolen her affections. Before the World “Is theirs a happy marriage?” "While company is present.”—Boston Transcript.