The Syracuse Journal, Volume 19, Number 13, Syracuse, Kosciusko County, 29 July 1926 — Page 6

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By PROEHL HALLER JAKLON SHORT skirts are no longer news. And woman’s apparel, what there is of it. isn’t half the topic of heated conversation that it wai a few years ago; Os course, now and then you read a news item announcing that next season’s skirts are to he shorter or perhaps you may encounter a wheezy old. Joke involving some peculiarity of woman’s dr. ss. but. in general, critical comment on femlnine attire occupies less ~ahd less space In our DeWh'columns. Os fashions and modes we have, aplenty, and the space devoted to style informatlon steadily increases. for as a nation we have be-we dress conscious. Short skirts are no longer news merely because news is supposed to concern itself with the unusual. And short skirts are no longer unusun). Todaj long skirts are almost as rare as the bustle. You see short skirts everywhere—shorter that! they ever were—and the world goes unshtH-ked and. for aH that has been promised and threatened, seemingly unharmed. Women’s clothes are lighter now than they ever have been. with the exception of the period' dirxHtJ.v following the French revolution, when the girls of Marseilles wore simple tunics m<ulelek) after the fashion of the ancient Greeks. The cloth.-s <>f Miss Wfijfti sixteen^.oumes. To list theii) here would add scarcely one line. And trx s.-ems that America by no means Is Vnl<|Ug matter of dress. France. Er gland. Germany, in fact, most of the civilized world has declared for the new freedom In dress, and is tetting away with It. sh Paris the skirts are so short that an AmerlcanXjvoman who had lived there for several years found upon returning to our shores that It would be necessary to remodel, her clothes. In Berlin and l-ondon it Is the same. The lower picture above shows a group of Berlin mannequin, with their numbers waiting to be called. From the standpoint of health today's fashions have the z endorsement of physicians, except where fashion demands dieting and self-starvation tn order to'wttain that slimneis which Americans have come to recognize as beauty. Medical science many years ago warned the ladies that If they persisted In encasing themselves In long, tight-fitting corsets they were likely to Injure thbmselves permanently. They laughed at this advice at first, but the-. | the string*. Then the World way came, and the younger generation, finding It could play better without harness, discarded the corset entirely. Some of the abbreviated dresses of today would hive caused a panic tn the streets of twenty ago. Does that mean that women have become depraved? Is It “immoral" to wear skirts that reach only to the knee? ’’No daughter of thine will make such a spectacle of herself!" said parents with Nineteenth century standards of modes and manners. Now these same parents alt In the gallery a tittle puzzled and bewildered, patiently watching, secretly relieved that woman's attractiveness, far from being Impaired, has been greatly enhanced by her new liberation. One observer argues that the idea of Immorality Is closely allied to the Idea of shame: and that having got rid of a good deal of shame, we have attained to a higher degree of moral health than prevailed In Jane Austen’s day when woman had only one preoccupation—sex. This Is the opinion of Hugh A. Studdert Kennedy, former • London correspondent of the Christian Science Monitor, and brother of the Rev. G. A. Studdert Kennedy. Writing in the Forum. Mr. Kennedy recalls a June day tn London twelve years ago. Passing Wider the Admiralty arch, he was shocked to behold a woman “obviously of grace and refinement, beautifully gowned in the mode of the day. save for the outrageous fact, that the sleeves of her dress were completely transparent from the Wrists to the shoulders.” Soon a crowd started to follow her. Some youths began to Jostle her. and "before I knew what I was doing I had pushed my way through the crowd, enlisted the services of a policeman. Booth Tarkington, author of "The Gentleman From Indiana." "Penrod.” “Seventeen." and many Others, has predicted that “fifty years from now the skirt, as an article of women's apparel, will 7 have disappeared entirely.“ ■ Interviewed by the Boston Herald. Mr, Tarkington. sixty years old. and old-fashioned and conservative by his own admission, declared: “The skirt, or what passes for it. as worn by the younger members of the female sex. and by 4 good many of the older members as well. Is merely a relic, a vestige. There Is real rea- • ton why it should continue to exist. I expect the

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and between the two of us we got the half-faint-ing girl- Into a taxi. By the time I h.d deposited her at Queen Anne's mansions, where she was Staying with her father and mother, she had tearfully explained to me that they had Just arrived from New York, that every woman In New York was wearing that kind of dress, that she never dreamed that suph a thing would happen, and that she would never get over it.” Ten years, including war years, passed. Mr. Kennedy again passed under Admiralty arch Into St. James’ park. ’’Everywhere one locked. dotted about the lawns, were girls, not in gowns with transparent sleeves, but In gowns with no sleeves at all: in gowns that did not come one Inch below the knee; in gowns devoid of necks and only very transparently supplied with backs. "Ten years before, one lone girl clad after a fashion, which now would be regarded as almost * Quakerish In Its modesty, had created something bordering on a panic In this place: women openly dubbed her a hussy; men and boys openly followed her. and passers-by had wondered what the world was coming to. ’’And this was what the world was coming to—bare arms, bare knees, bare necks, and. yes. bare backs, too. And yet I could not help but note everybody seemed about IL It seemed to me that the air was cleaner and purer than it had been ten years before, as if an unholy pressure had. been relieved, and Impudent hocus-pocus shorn of its imaginary power. Legs were everywhere, arms were everywhere, tftid yet the men and boys passing back and forth were going about their dally walk and conversation Just as if nothing were happening, just as If the world around them were not coming to anything out of the ordinary, after all. “A great artist once told me an interesting story. We were talking about women’s dress, and how entirely It was a matter of the point of view. He recalled one day when he was a young - art student that a curious thing happened at the life class he was attending. The model was a young girl of refinement and beauty of form, and’ the class was drawing her undraped figure. She was a good model, and had been sitting motionless for half an hour, when, suddenly glancing upwards, she saw the face of a man peering at her through the window of the skylight. She had been posing for half an hour before a class of fifty men. yet when she saw this face at the skylight. with an outraged cry. she threw a wrapper around her shoulders. Jumped from the platform. and withdrew in tears to her dressing room. “Now the artist has always been regarded as necessarily a man of looser morals than the man who follows *6ther callings. It is an absurd astime come when all women will habitually wear garments that art approximately the same as those worn by men. “It's just a matter of custom. The element of modesty does not enter into It. Modesty consists in conformity to accepted rules, and Immodesty Is defiance of custom. Why. only a few years ago flora girl to appear In public wearing knickerbockers caused something of a sensation. People used to turn and look at her. It was considered rather darsmr. and the old folks thought it a bit immodest—just because it was not the custom. ‘‘But it’s different now. There are girls now

THE SYRACUSE JOU RNAE

sumption, of course, but it arises from the fact that the average human being, dragooned .into a ‘respect’ for the 'mysteries’ of women’s dress cannot conceive of anyone, who does not give a rap for it. as anything but immoral. Artists are not less moral than other men, but have, on the contrary, gained a certain measure of freedom from that incubus, of mystery which makes for, as nature intended it to make for. the excitation of desire. And the average human mind resents the acquisition of this freedom’. "A hundred years ago the ‘womanly woman’ had perhaps reached her most ‘womanly’ expression. The women of Jane Austen’s dny were almost completely preoccupied with questions of sex. They had It for their every thought. They sewed a little, cooked, and played the harpsichord, but when they did these things, it was always with some very gallant gentleman in view. And as to the very gallant gentlemen, they were so gallant that a chance view of my lady’s ankle was sufficient to put them into a cold sweat. "I begin to see this younger generation today as 'some holy thing.' With unerring, if unconscious wisdom, the modern woman--iß'doing the first things first, she is getting rid the mystery of the flesh. And the mar. who twenty years ago was fired by the suggestion of mystery of the clothed form finds himself unmoved In the presence of so much nakedness, because it is unashamed. "The lack of morality is not In the nakedness but in the shame, and the shame grows less day by day. The question of sex is really occupying thought far less today than at any time in history. And so when a prince of the church declares. as he did recently, that he Js shocked at The unparalleled depravity of woman’s dress.’ and declares that he- is ’at a loss to explain the universal decadence which has swept the world.’ the woman of today Is apt to answer him shortly enough. "No transitional period is desirable for its own sake, and as far as the relation of the sexes is concerned, we are passing through a period of transition, a period in which license Is. more often than not. mistaken for liberty, and old-time ideas vanish in a peal of laughter. And the laughter is the most wholesome thing about it. The surest way for the world to rid Itself of the hocus-pocus of sex is to laugh at it. A lady with a lamp shall stand In the great history of the land. Well, the lady has come, and she is standing. And her skirts are short and her arms are bare. As to her back. I cannot see It. for her face is towards me: but on her face, upturned to the light of her lamp, is shining the glory of a new era." who wear knickerbockers from one end of the season to the other, and nobody gives it a second thought “Women,, and especially young women, are now determined to be ‘people.’ They no longer regard themselves primarily as women, or girls, or ladies, but “people' on an equality with men in every particular. They are erasing sex distinctions altogether and do not ask any special privileges. “Yes, short skirts may be convenient, but they reveal such distressing things as bow legs and knock-knees, which the more voluminous garments of the past mercifully concealed."

SUMMER AFTERNOON GOWNS; NEW LINGERIE IS COLORFUL

EVERY once or twice In a while—and much oftener now than in the good old days of yore—a real artist in clothes appears and shows us what can be done with prevailing modes. It takes an artist to select those style notes, that, when they are put together, will produce a perfect harmony. Among the many details that add Interest to styles, he knows which he may use, where to begin and where to leave oft, when he assembles a new . model, and how to give it a touch or so of his own. An afternoon gown that sums up the modes of today with consummate •kill, la pictured here. It Is made of

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Hat crepe, in the color called June rose, and has a vest and lower sleeve sections of White georgette with a graceful jabot to break the severity at simple lines. Plaited godets, pointed at the hemline, are inserted in the front, back and sides of the skirt. The j straight collar is extended into long ties —and these ends are the end of a story as delightful as any told by jthe season’s modes. This model is adapted to any of the fashionable soft fabrics In plain colors. Very flattering afternoon gowns are naturally also very popular. These are georgette or chiffon models in flowered patterns, worn over crepe de rhine slips. They do not need elaboration. since the fabrics themselves are so decorative, but they are made interesting and varied by little details sf finish, as flared apron fronts.

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Jabots, scarf collars, cuff tabs, tiered iklrts, vestees and cape attachments. Reversing the order of printed chiffon •ver plain slips, are gowns of printed silk veiled with long tunics of plain chiffon or georgette. Both plain and printed patterns in sheer fabrics are made up with delicate lace flouncings. and black lace, over black or fleshcolored foundations, is featured among the gossamer gowns for summer afternoons. Daintiness in design, delicate colors and sheerness of fabrics, are characteristics of lingerie, whatever the type or style It belongs to this season. Color is the factor of outstanding importance, it seems, since all-white has been supplanted in popular favor by pastel shades in silk and in sheer fine cotton materials. Beginning with pale pink the

Week-End Sets in Color Week-end sets consisting of suitcase, hat box and zipper bag come in leather in colors to match the costume An Attractive Scarf An evening scarf with a touch of originality is not more than a foot wide at the throat but. with the aid of deeply plaited insets at either end becomes, when they are thrown back, wide enough tc serve as 5

color range runs through peach, green, tea rose, lavender and yellow and a feature of the season is the combination of two colors in one garment. In fabrics crepe de chine continues to bold the lead in silks and fine, firmly woven voile in cottons, but other thin silks are well represented and voile has rivals In fine batiste and nainsook. Undergarments reach the limit of sheerness in georgette and ■ voile, which are used in both plain and printed > varieties and afford a chance for the generous use plaitings. Voile is a sturdy material and even georgette is less fragile than it looks. Besides the sheer beauty of

these fabrics, the fact that they ma. be easily retinted, if tubbing causea them to fade, makes a strong appeal to women. In handmade, tailored lingerie of crepe .de chine, vari-colored floral motifs .in dainty designs are embroidered at the top of chemise and gowns. Light colors are used in these endbroideries and narrow ribbons for shoulder straps while triple straps are popular In the very narrow ribbons. Tucks and plaits are introduced In these tailored garments which are nearly always pale pink in color. Some white is shown in new models having applique designs in color embroidered in white, and white garments with pipings In a color are among the newest items. In lace-trimmed lingerie, filet, val, alencon and net are used tn edgings,

inserts and medallions. The more elaborate gowns have lace yokes extended into semi-sleeves over the shoulders, lace pockets and lace hemlines and are made of crepe de chine. Chemises of this material or of voile or georgette are shown with long molded bodices and short plaited skirts. Lace banding finishes the top and bottom and joins the bodice and skirt Along with the return of handmade lingerie comes the highnecked and long-sleeved gown once more. These are made of cambric and nainsook for the most part, but crepe de chine and albatross are also used and much attention is given to graceful designing and to the use of net. filet and Irish lace in tbsJr decoration. JULIA BOTTOMLEY, (©. I*3*. Western Newspaper Unloa.)

a shawl. These scarfs come tn a variety of colors, bat In most of them the Insets are of a contrasting color or figured crepe. Coat Frock of Purple A striking costume Is a kasha coat frock of purple with,, bodice rather fitted, skirt full, with tiny revers ol white broadcloth, and ecclesiastical embroidery of gold and silver on the collar, front and pockets as well as the snug lower section of the full leg o’-mutton sleeve* ■■

EES • THE • ffl| mCABINETTSi <<c). IS2«. Western Newspaper Union.) Three things to delight in—beauty. frankness and well doing. \ Three things to avoid — . loquacity and flippant jesting. Three things to cultivate—good taste, good manners and good humor. SEASONABLE DISHES A tasty salad is always- in season and n6w with fresh green things in

abundance one may have a variety of summer salads. Try slicing small green onions very thin, adding half of a green pepper, more or less as one likes the fla-

vor, cover with sour, cream, adding a bit of salt and cayenne: A spoonful of mayonnaise may be added to season more highly if desired. Serve on lettuce. Cottage cheese served on lettuce with a spoonful of crushed fresb currants, sweetened very Weet. is another well-liked combination. When the fruit is not in season open a can that has been crushed with sugar and canned without cooking. Combination Salad.—Shred a small bead of early cabbage and cover with cold water to crisp,. Arrange tender leaves of lettuce on salad plates and heap on the following .combination well mixed with good mayonnaises one finely cubed apple, one-half of n green pepper finely shredded, one banana sliced and chopped fine; add the cabbage; a bit of pineapple will not spoil the combination. Strawberry Whip.—Mix one cupful of crushed strawberries with one-third of a cupful of powdered sugar. Beat the whites of three eggs, add one-third of a cupful of sugar and one-quarter of a teaspoonful of cream of tartar, beat again. Combine the mixtures and serve in sherbet cups or as 9 sauce on sponge cake. Baked Beans With Sausage.—Par boll one quart of navy beans after soaking them over night-. When the skins crack, place them in a bean>pot, Adding three tablespoonfuls of molasses and salt to taste. Bake all day. One hour before serving place link sausages over the top and allow them to bake. Creole Soup.—Chop one small turnip, one onion and one carrot. Cook these with two tablespoonfuls of rice, a pint of tomato, two teaspoonfuls of salt and two cupfuls of water. When the vegetables are tendbr. rub through a colander. Add a tablespoonful of butter and serve hot. Rhubarb Baked With Figs.—-<Cover well-washed tigs with boiling water and cook until the water is nearly evaporated. Cut a pound of jnnpeeled rhubarb into inch pieces, put a layer into a baking dish, sprinkle with sugar, then add a few' figs; repeat until the dish is full. Add a few tablespoonfuls of water and bake covered In a slow oven until the fruit is tender. He'pful Suggestions. On damp or rainy days be sure to •upply the boiling pots and pans with

plenty of water as the air like a wet > sponge absorbs more moisture than when dry. Obstinate stains of almost any kind may be removed

with peroxide and sqap: then place in the sun. Sometimes several applications will be necessary. Be sure to rinse well after using peroxide. Rust stains are easily removed with lemon Juice and salt in the, bright sunshine. Salts of lemon moistened with water Is very effective and is always ready to use. Any stain remover should be carefully rinsed out after applying. When baking a cake set the alarm clock so that no matter how busy the attention will be called to .the kitchen. Leftover oatmeal may. by the addition of water and reheating, serve again as fresh oatmeal. Put a layer of finely chopped black walnuts over the top of a custard pie. Any chopped nuts or coconut will be good. Old stocking legs make fine oversleeves to slip on when working in the kitchen; tW*y save the good dress sleeves. Cut at the seams and sewed together they make very good dust cloths and dust mops. Candles for use on the table will burn clearer and longer If placed on Ice for a day before using. A ring of gait put around the lamp wick wiij give a soft steady flame and will burn all night. Cracks and splits in furniture may be filled wiA melted beeswax, then varnished, so that they will hardly show. ‘ Black mustard seed, if sowed In the garden, will make the best of salad plants late into the fall. Nice for greens and served with lettuce it Is especially good. Dampen the brush of the carpet sweeper—lt will do much better work in picking dp threads and lint Soiled coat collars may be cleaned with cornmeal wet with gasoline; rub in well and brush out. Velvet will look like new thus cleaned. Pineapple Juice is a good cure for indigestion. Pineapple, one can shredded. three bananas and one orange sliced very thin makes a filling for • large, cake. Sorta Good? “The greatest woman in history is the wife of a man of moderate means who does her own cooking, washing and iroslng. brings up a family of girls and boys to be useful members of society and finds time for her own Intellectual and moral Improvement’* Oar Main Endeavor Id these days we are not so much concerned about loving sur neighbors as we are about keeping up with them.—Boston. Transcript <2