The Syracuse Journal, Volume 18, Number 7, Syracuse, Kosciusko County, 18 June 1925 — Page 7

Adorning the Knitted Frock; Lovely Gowns for Matrons

CROSS th® palm of the itinerant fortnne-teller with a piece of stiver. and Io! our past, present and future wUI be revealed. Knitted outerwear fashions are like that this season—responsive to the magle touch of sliver. The stylist trims our sweaters and knitted two-piece suits with stl--1 ver buttons and gilded trappings and behold! a revelation of entrancing inodes. To the woman of smart fashion.

rWaiMaßi ■ WIK ill <' f I F ■tak v® u JHub] 3ra Hr / -■ I Exquisite Sports Frock.

al I ver and gold trimming*, as applied to things knitted, present a moat In* ieresting innovation. All aorta of intriguing Idea* ars ax* pressed with gilded leather as a medium for motifs, bandings, collars, cuff* and belts on the latest knitwear modes. II lustra Ur® of thia new style trend Is the exquisite sports frock here pictured. It is knitted of mist-blue rayon, its drop-stitch contributing a note of Interest. There Is a bordering of silver with bright gilded buttons. Surely a sports costume which will make appeal to every queen of fashion! Added to its comfort-giving qualities. is the beauty of the coloring expressed in knitted rayon or fiber jrtlk as you may choose to call it. The new knitted rayon suits, which are the last word in fashion, abound in lovely flower shades, such as rose, cyclamen, flax. Then too. the prediction that lacy stltcb will feature throughout summer ‘ knitted outerwear fashions becomes

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realisation to the latest rayon-knit Jumper salts. It also adds to the prestige of the newer knitted frocks, that they are two-piece, for without a doubt the skirt with overblouse leads in point of style importance. The blouse may be long-sleeved and highnecked. era matching scarf, for all these points of fashion are emphasised to the newer knitted modes. It is said Paris couturiers have a penchant for designing apparel for matron* at any rate the numbers of

Jabots Grace Simple Frocks The simplest frock of black satin or chiffon gains to allure if It to softened by the addition of a frilled or plaited Jabot of sheer net or fine lace* These ho " wsatly tnndhr and < ________________________ I I This to a asaarm of bright-colored

hats, wraps and gowns they present, created to suit matrons (both young and older) seem to Indicate a preference that way. But. of course, one must consider that the main demands on them come from matrons and it is moat important to please them. Whatever the reasons, the modes of the French reach their climax In apparel for women who have left girlhood behind them. One reason la that

nothing Is too subtle, too sophisticated or too splendid to help In contributing to the charm of women who have attained poise. A fine example of French art In matrons’ gowns appears in the sketch shown above. It has been created with special reference to June weddings, as suitable for the matron of honor, among the bride’s attendants, or to the mother of the bride or groom. It la of lace and georgette and ■very adaptable—suited to young and to older matrons. It has several marks of the present season to distinguish it and is a beautiful exponent of current modes, notably in the uneven hemline, the combination of lace and georgette, the jabot-panels at each ride of the skirt joined to the georgette with a • beading of small beads. A deep yoke In the bodice has a “V" shaped neck opening and the sleeves are very short. Laces dyed to match are used with georgette in frocks of this kind, and blond

lace Is used with contrasting colora The hat is depended upon to salt tbeo® aoft and elegant afternoon gowns to the years of the wearer. Younger women wear the wide-brimmed modela. often with flower trimming, but th® older matrons select smart, small shapes. The hat pictured Is of halt braid with handsome monture of oo> tri ch featiters at one aide which adds greatly to its beauty. JULIA BOTTOfICLEY. ins. Wmcar. Nawspaper <hUw.>

Wide Silk. Practical The new plain and printed rilk* which come to a width of M toche* are as practical and economical as they are smart. A yard and a half of the material to all that to nereesary ftr a frock, while little more to re huired for a coat. I ' - I

aC2 THE MB Cikitchen SH HcabinetS 1»». Western Newspaper t'aoaj It la easy to ait in the sunshine And talk to the man in the shade; . . It Is easy to float In a well-trimmed boat And point out the place to wade, —Ella Wheeler Wilcox. SPRINGTIME SUGGESTIONS. In going over the closets and drawers this spring, give away to some one who can enjoy them the El. |li things that are too good I •■r" to tbrow away or sell to ' ’"7/j|j the ragman. 1 fT* The bltß ot lace and rit> * iS n ’ the holers and hat 72~| \ |~T trimmings, old dishes, Jul vases, in fact any thing ZsjSfe? that hasy passed Its usefulness in your home pass on for some child or adult to enjoy I and use. it takes will power to give I up old heirlooms, but If they are' to tj be kept in the attic, why not give them j away and delight the heart of some 1' one. When the final summons comes, as ’ it will for all of us. do not leave the I house full of things that might have ' brought joy to others, but give them i where they will be appreciated, now. t Even In homes that are very simple as to furnishing and equipment it Is ; most useful to have, an inventory of its contents. In case of tire. A list of linens, bedding, silver, china, books, etc., is not difficult to prepare, and It ; is a great convenience from year to ‘ year. Piece bags with a list of the Impor- | taut contents will save rummaging t through other things to find that wantI ed. Pin the list on the bag. Label all ! boxes before placing them on the closet shelves. Even the most active memory will not always be able to recall in a hurry the article wanted. Another household convenience is a card index. This may be used for the Inventory as well as for recipes of various kinds. Have a set for leftover. For example, under tomato, give a few recipes in which varying quantities of tomato may he used. Every little while you will find a new one to add to the list. Keep a list of foods that go well together, a hurry-up meal; when company comes you fail to think of many things you might have served, If you had a list to consult. Faded hangings of silk or other materials which have become too faded to use may be dyed. Use a color which blends with the coloring of the room; often after dyeing goods that has some design which still shows, the hangings will be prettier than ever. If troubled with ants sprinkle a little tartar emetic around the places they come In; It will quickly drive them away. Keep the powder away from food or pets, as it is a poison. Delicate lace curtains that are very frail if washed one at a time and wrung through the wringer.'even after the light starching, then pinned down to a rug or carpet will look like new. Spread a sheet, marking the width and length and pin to those lines. The ideal washcloth for the baby Is a piece of gauxe folded into four thicknesss and bound around with a soft finished crocheted edge. Mora Summer Dishea. Gelatin dishes are easy to prepare, are digestible and especially good for warm weather B desserts. Tomato juice, water, seasonings and gelatin make good Jelly in which to mold fish. Lemon jello to which is added any fresh fruit at hand, molded, and served with cream, makes a very dainty anc refreshing dessert for a wann day. Spanish Salad.—To two cupfuls of diced chicken add one diced cucumber, a cupful of walnut meats and a cupful of freshly-cooked and chilled peas. Mix with a highly-seasoned salad dressing and serve on lettuce. Blueberry Pudding.—Spread bread with butter, using as many slices as are needed, cover with freah blueberries well -sweetened, and bake until thoroughly cooked. Serve hot or cold. The canned blueberries may be used, juice ami all. left to mold and chill without cooking. Serve with cream. There is no dessert or cake that is more popular than whipped cream cake. Prepare layer cake and fill with whipped cream which has been sweetened and flavored. Fresh strawberries crushed with sugar added to the cream makes a delightful flavor. Add a pint of cooked chestnuts that have been mashed to a paste to a package of jello. Mold and serve with cream.' ■ Iced Tea.—Take two teaspoonfuls each of green and black tea. pour over a pint of boiling water and cover tightly. Let stand five minutes to draw. Take a large piece of ice, place in a granite pan and pour over the boiling water. When well chilled, add more ice and fill the glasses. Garnish each glass with a section of lemon. Tea prepared this way la much more delicately flavored than tbat*whlch Is allowed to stand. Honey Ginger Snaps.—Take a pint of hooey, three-fourths of a pound of butter, two teaspoonfuls of ginger, boll together and cool. Add floor to make a mixture to roil. Roll very thin and bake quickly. Add a little ginger ale to grape juice, to give it snap and sparkle. The combination Is good. iirCiC. Has Been Hatt Monster Kubla Khan, the grandson of the greet Genghis Khan, who completed the subjugation of China begun by bls grandfather. has been described by XXTro£ veler ’" Su MtztflS stalM “ • ’ I ’ Life’s Doors “Ufb has three doors. There’s the I tiir-

THE SYRACUSE JOURNAL

Waistline, Longer Skirts Presented

When a dress authority announces a radical innovation, the always fascinating and usually perplexing aubject of fashions becomes a matter of the moment. Long after a atandard is accepted Its vogue continues. Once It becomes the mode, women of fashion keep to it tenaciously. Anything revolutionary in dress is slow in coming, and ordinarily passes quite as slowly. Among the smartly dressed women of today no one seems to recall just when the waistline widened from a small steel-bound circle to a wider one of ease, or when the belt dropped from its normal point to one gjmost out of sight, says a fashion writer in the New York Times. But these two things changed the entire style of costumes a few seasons ago and wiped out centuries of prejudice and convention. It required something of the crusader’s spirit to abolish the rigid lines and i formality that stays, bands and crinolines gave to the fashionable figure. We have always the thrill of expectancy and the conspicuously smart is j the one who is first to swing the trend I in an opposite direction. To Restore Waistline. Jean Patou, who hits succeeded tn establishing a sympathetic sense of American taste in dress, has decided, it is said, to restore the waistline. Just what part be took in Its obliteration, a while ago, no one seems to recall. But lately he has presented some interesting examples in which a worn- ‘ an's waist is charmingly and becomingly indicated just where it belongs. In several models of one sort and another, usually evening dress, or the positive opposite, such as tailored costumes, there havd been shown the possibilities of a normal belt line, and since Patou has declared for It, his master hand may safely be trusted. To this creator Is also credited a lengthening of the skirt Such revulsion of sentiment followed the introduction of the knee-length skirt a few seasons ago that little by little hems were dropped, and some of the leading couturiers made their smartest models with skirts that ' touched the floor. Quite unaccountably the advance styles from most of the representative houses this spring returned to the extremely short skirt so short, in fact that ? the more exclusive clientele rebelled So Patou’s indorsement comes at the psychological moment. The response to this suggestion is already evident In all types ■ of dress but sports clothes, and even ' they, although having a shorter skirt than the more formal gowns, are still only short enough for freedom of action —several inches below the knee. On one Innovation designers and their audience are agreed—the ensemble. It is not easy to discover the I raison d’etre for the style that imme-I j dlately becomes the rage. It is pos- . ' sible that the extreme, sometimes dis- | ; cordant motifs, introduced one after another through past seasons, with I violent colors that threatened to blunt all color sense, brought a demand for ; uniformity and symmetry. In the separate garments, skirts and blouses, frocks and wraps, ingenuity was exhausted and senses were wearied to satiety with the sensational. It was time something suggesting consistency was evolved. Popularity of Enaemble. Ensemble has for many years signified harmony in designs, color and taste In the entire costume of a woman. This season the word is a kind of slogan presenting the popular version of an old idea—the three-piece gown. That was a sort of glorified tailored suit in which broadcloth or some other heavy suiting was combined with finer materials, s rattier weighty composition. It did not “go" i

New Materials Introduced

Again Worth scores in some ensembles of distinction in which he introduces delicate fabrics combined with heavier silks, and sometimes with two materiaia of the same weight, one figured. the other plain. Drecoll, too, has lone some beautiful ensembles for th® early season, and some afternoon cootumen of this type have come from the ateliers of Molyneux and Goupy. The number of new materials introiuced tn the ensembles Is particularly interesting, for they illustrate also the latest fancies in color. Silk alpaca is much liked and is shown in lovely shades of beige, gray and in several greens. This material in emersld green is made into a simple straight-line frock with a coat of the same shade lined with lighter green '.repo de chine. Chanel, who creates this smart, refreshing ensemble for afternoon, has done some strikingly original things tn combining plain materials of pleasantly harmonizing colors. Some of the best Paris designers are islng much lace, all of the novelty allxvers tn beige and eeru, and a grant

Should Use Care When Buying Figured Goods

Almost every 'woman has at one time or another gone through the bitter experience of baying a figured material that looked most attractive to the piece but was hopelessly dowdy when fashioned Into a frock. This to most jases was due ea lack of harmony between the type ot dram and rhe type of material. Some materials are beat adapted to frocks fashioned on long, slim line*, others to those whose effect to that of honffancy; some may be combined with trimming* while others should be left rrjft.■ ii*vl -tn filrtno SWIFWS Pre VBohsteu&a M’ltTFtrty sSIOUT;. X UtM C laviß WsllCU whS> the’ amateur dreesmaker. Once the reiaof‘ materials to Mlhouefte has ramml gag nf thrr arlrf j becomes infinitely : .

A for just that reason. With the Introduction of lightweight, soft materials in a season that is madly, intensely, almost wholly silk, the ensemble has become a compelling idea. The year’s first ensemble was built of a frock in some soft fabric—silk, crepe, voile, chiffon —with a wrapt lined with the dress material. The result was practical and unusually charming. It gave one a complete costume,' and the coat or cape was a comfortable accessory. The idea has been developed in countless ways and In as many materials as the season offers. Women and their dressmakers have gone mad. and everything possible in the changing phases of styles has been translated into an ®» > $ • T SH 1 Er""!Dress of Printed Silk -Simulates Effect of Braid; Tunic Fashion. semble. There is the ensemble for ths street, for afternoon and for daytime dress for every occasion. These run the gamut of new Ideas in material* and novelty of composition. The most usual ensemble of service value Is accomplished with a printed crepe for the frock, a three-quarter oi seven-eighth length coat of plain goods lined with the figured crepe tc match the dress. With the great ' variety of new patterns brought out ! by leading manufacturers the possible I variants in this type of outfit are almost without limit. The coat is nearly always made of satin, of silk poplin or of the wlde-wale bengaline. This is a year of soft fabrics, which have so completely captivated ths | fashionable world that heavier materials are eclipsed, and nothing la too sheer or fragile to build an ensemble. In a unique model from a prominent French house the usual - order Is reversed. and a coat of flat crepe, of which the frock is made, is lined with kasha, for warmth. In another engaging model, the crepe de chine wrap matching the dress Is lined with velvet. The quintessence of grace and elegance is expressed tn an afternoon ensemble of an Indestructible voile, the predominating novelty of the season. This voile in a floral pattern of several beautiful colors on a black ground is made ofter a softly draped, rather simple mode.

• deal of chantilly, combining It with > the crepes and voiles for afternoon epi sembles suitable for warmer months. > An Indestructible voile in rose beige with softly tinted floral design is made i into a charming afternoon gown after i a rather “dressy" model, and with thia > is a long, straight, loose coat of beige i > lace, lined with the voile, with subtle . artistic effect. Popular Trimmings The general lines of evening frocks | are similar to those for daytime. t Metal trimmings and embroideries are . much used. Crystal and colored bead® , and bead fringes often give s tunic ( effect. Yokes cut at empire waistline , are accentuated by more embroidery i or other fabric. They come also In. iace and chiffon with normal waistline ■ an! bouffant skirts. For Sports Frocks , Leather applique and colorful yaw embroidery make gay touches of interest on sports frocks of white crepe

shown those that measure M inches in width, with the design so arranged that only a yard and a half of the ma i serial to needed for a’frock. They are strikingly attractive and are used for ensemble frocks and for tunic* Shawls as Lining \ Fragile and delicate as they In la appearance, there to considerable ' warmth to hand-knitted shawls of tht open lace stitch. One clever designer has utilised two shawls or scarfs as s lining for a delicate pink negligee ©1 chiffon. The filmy texture permits s ’ faint suggestion of the knitted lining to show through the chiffon. Narrow i bands of wrwhrm, which match th* nt rh» chiffon, outline the edcM iVDt? "* kaigr vum vs —, , R Features Pocket fcanvelopo tsag ci f Maae a envelons

"ONLY CHILD” IS UNDER HANDICAP Fated Not to Succeed Well in Lite. la a discussion of the “influence of Early Environment on Personality,” before the members of the New York Academy of Sciences, section of anthropology and psychology, Prof. William Ogburn of Columbia university presented the results of his research into one specific phase of the general subject, but added that some additional data were not quite ready for presentation. > Taking for granted that a repeated stimulus in the life of the child interests the personality of the child. Professor Ogburn expected to find some objective evidence of this factor in a study of family life. He therefore dej cided to study “the intelligence quo- ' tients” to see if they varied with the position of the child in its particular family; that is, to see in what muuuer the oldest child, the youngest child and “the only child" would be affected by the investigation. He said that in this way he could study the emotional stability of the child, its achievement in school, and the teacher's estimate of the child’s personality. His first consideration, he said, was to define the position of the child in its family, and in this procedure he used fifty different cate- ; gories, which included differentiations according to age, takiug a period of five years as the dividing line, and also considering differentiations according to sex. But the data in the matter of the sexes had not ween com- j pleted, be added. Selecting “Who’s Who” as a criterion of success. Professor Ogburn said that by analyzing the data given here in reference to the position of the child in the family, he might compare his results with the statement of Doctor Brill and other psychoanalysts who claim that “the only child’’ does not succeed very well in life, that it teuds rathqr to fail in the struggle for existence. Three thousand names were selected at random, the professor stated. ' covering three separate lines of en- > deavor, namely. 1,000 artists, including painters, actors, musicians, authors; 1,000 scientists of all grades, ! and 1,000 of a more general classification, including statesmen, busiuess men, journalists and others of “good mixing qualities.” In these questionnaires, he said, the position of the In- i dividual in his family was requested. , and there was do classification for fe- . males, since there were only a few listed. From the 1,700 replies received he endeavored to see whether a certain type of child appeared in the lists of “Who’s Who,” with the following results: Os these families of “Who’s Who" were found 577 individuals who were the oldest males in the family, each of whom had a brother less than five years younger, and all of them living; 342 of them were in “Who's Who,” making a proportion of 59 out of 100. There were 398 of these who were the youngest children with a brother five years older; 155 of them were found in the lists of “Who’s Who,” representing 39 out of 100. Regarding ths i , intermediate children, that Is, between the oldest and youngest, 729 were discovered and only 237 of them 1 In “Who’s Who." These results. Professor Ogburn concluded, seemed to favor the Intelligence of the oldest child, with the youngest next and the intermediate child in last position. He found these data the most significant of the many categories. Stinf in It Edward S. Harkness of New York, congratulated on his recent gift of $1,000,000 to Yale, laughed and said: “Philanthropists never like to hear any allusions to their philanthropy. These allusions are always well meant but they are somehow apt to resemble the butler's speech more or less. “A Lady Bountiful, famous for her charities, once declared to her butler that if the townspeople persisted in ' their design of building a garage right S opposite her bedroom windows she would leave the town. •"That’s what I told ’em, ma’am.’ said the butler excitedly. T told ’em that at the town meetin*. And I asked ’em. ma’am, if they wanted to lose the goose what laid the golden eggs.’ ” Gypsy Trips for GirU Everygirl’s. the magazine of the Camp Fire Girls, recommends gypsy trips in, answer to the call of the wild. “The girts borrow or rent a cart and horse and just follow the road that calls.” says Everygirl’s. “You walk part of the time, ride part of the time, cook your meals over a camp fire beside the road or in the bend of a shady brook, sleep under the open sky or in the hayloft of a friendly barn; you watch before the fire la tiie quiet of the night hours; you take a dip from the sandbar of an inviting river or halt your caravan at the foot of a mountain and climb up to the view and the sunset” Camubala Still Exist Until the recent murder of the Canadian explorer. Charles Penrose, tn New Guinea, by cannibals, the fact that man-eating humans still existed was not generally realized. This tragedy revealed authentic modern records of the cannibalistic tribes in the outreaches of civilization. In New Guinea they live in the extreme interior where the country is thickly forested and the tribes are difficult to locate. No traveler has dared to go too far into .this Interior although neighboring tribes have given out information on their less sociable neighbors. Jade h Deceptive Gem Pearls and jade are two precious gems widely worn by women today, and one cause of their popularity is the difficulty of telling st s glance the real from the artificial. This is especially true of jade, even when laid side by side. There is no perceptible difference, even to an expert, between one piece that costs a few dollars and one that enora hundreds, I -

MRS. CUCUMBER GREEN Her name was Mrs. Cucumber Green, she had another name, too. Margaret

lilies

was her other name. She had been given that name when sho was a baby and she had had nothing to do about it. She had given herself the name of Mrs. Cucumber Green and that was the name she liked to be called. She always called herself by that name and so did her “pretend” neighbors. The

A Play Kitchen. neighbors were so nice. She always did the speaking for them and so they never made mistakes in bar name. i Her big home was in a big house but her special home was back of the bed. There was a space between the back of the bed and the wall, quite a long, and quite a wide space. She called this Number Four Green Lane. j On the wallpaper were little painted houses and her “pretend” - neighbors lived in these. They used, to talk to her. She changed her voice so they could do this. “How-do-you-do, Mrs. Cucumber Green?" Then she changed her voice so it was just like her own. “Very well, indeed. I thank you," she answered. “And are the children quite well, Mrs. Cucumber Green?” “Quite well, I thank you,” she an- ! swered again. “Only,” she added, “I ! am a little bit worried about Robbie. I Hs caught a cold yesterday and I do hope it don’t get worse.” “Dear me. that is too bad," the neighbor said, sadly, shaking her head. I' “Well, Ido hope I won’t have to give the dear child a dose of castor oil,” Mrs. Cucumber Green said. “If I have to do that I have two chocolates to give him for taking it But I shall not give it to him unless I have to do so. I always think it is so unkind to give a child castor oil unless he is very, very sick.” “Just the way I feel about castor i oti,” said the neighbor. “And are the other children well? I ! think you, said they were?” “Oh, very well.” said Mrs. Green. Now Mrs. Cucumber Green was Just four years old. It was a most perfect age. It was such a nice, round, complete age. Next year she would be five. She was “going on" five now. She had been given a set of pink dishes for her birthday, and a big cloth cat. The cat had to be leaned up against something or he would foil down. She had already given the cat a fine name. Lucifer was the cat’s name, named after a big cat who lived across the street. The big cat’s mistress used to call out for him. “Lucifer, Lucifer, Lucifer, Luc-l-fer!" She was going to have a party in the afternoon so she was very busy dressing the children during the morning. It was hard to decide just which clothes they should wear as they haxi quits a few nice clothes. Os course Gyp, the darting little gray dog stuffed with sawdust, didn’t need to be dressed, except that there was a blue ribbon t® tie around his neck. Neither did Johnny Naples have to be dressed. He always wore the same suit, summer and winter, for best and for every day. His suit was a bright worsted one of many colors and as he had come all the way from Naples, : which was way across the sea, she had given him the name of Naples. Her uncle Johnny had given him to her and so she called him Johnny, too. But most important of all was th® dressing of Allie Baa. Allie Baa waa

a rag doll, th® most adorable, wonderful rag doll in the world. Her body was Just the right size for hugging. and though her painted face was kissed until It was quite dull, stUI every year or so Allie’s face could be re-paint-ed. That was not her whole name. Her whole name was Alice Gugtava

Ariel Star Jewel Favorjt . child. Bright Carol Carmen Cucumber Green, but it was easier to call her Allie Baa for short. With grown-up mothers it was much nicer that they didn't have favorites with their children. Grown-up mothers should never have favorites and so they were very good about this. But when you are a “pretend" mother you can have favorite* That to one of the nice things about being a “pretend" mother. Allie Baa was Mr* Cucumber Green’s favorite child. The other* were very kindly treated, and they were loved, as all children should be. Mr* Cucumber Green knew that. But Allie she adored! Oof W f Ae Ink Wtllt Chndid letter from a twelve-year-•ld. acknowledging a'present: “Dear Aunt Harriet: “Thank you for your gift I have always wanted a pincushion but not jrsry much." Willing flMtor Now listen, freshman, ywu’re a big man in school and ws want von to co out for «wn<>thlng ; Freshman —Yesair. just a minute.