The Syracuse Journal, Volume 18, Number 3, Syracuse, Kosciusko County, 21 May 1925 — Page 7
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Something for Nothing WE CAN SEND TUEM y 7 NO /NO / ITS EEi out just as well / not necessaryT I AS NOT V I HAVE AU THE — x. measurements y M? li / vs Tlr s / well, i jxjnY need (no mam j / but if There sno k J I CHANGE,'rtJD CAN SEND V *' I Them OUT - I MIGHT AS / X \. WELL GET THE SERVICE/ <q \ I MVI?eLM New Teeth on Old Saws Wvlß •XVC >AAU WO VJCtOTE 'eMUM -ft> VKX)U> BG GGrnw? UP Ml XAGV*< ukth U\s. RAO*O W U\>EO ’CoOKM REMARKS uwa SkAVfiCWERS Jl _- 1 ,■ -v*xu* 6KWM BtRO MAM UJORkA/’ eOMAAGMXS OOSG, * &X OF *<«£ EARxM FISH MS© CAt«*ES TH' WORM, WMH A Ul <T I • '
THAT AUTO. _ v t Beady to take a /*X gfelf * chance. George. ifeML“' u fjt*. Pre just Beard IJEK where you may |«LnL buy a floe new r\J antomobUe for / half-price. All tight, dean : Now if you hear BBfl how we may be able to keep It go- - lag for half-price. - z “»- ril bay the thing.
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THE SYRACUSE JOURNAL
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Would Lease Power of Muscle Shoals
WASHINGTON.— Despite the failure of congress to pass a bill providing for disposal of hydro-electric current generated at Muscle Shoals, plans have been made by the War department for the leasing of this power as fust -a. It is developed. In a letter sent to the special Muscle Shoals committee appointed by President Coolidge the War department outlined its plans and asked for the views of the committee on the proposed policy. If the department plans receive the approval of the committee, bids will be asked immediately for the sale of the power. In this connection, it was pointed' out that owing to a shortage of rains in the vicinity of Muscle Shoals there will be a big demand for |M>wer this fall. In the letter two plans for the sale of the power were outlined. One would be to sell the current as fast as It is developed by the War department to the highest bidders under con-, tracts n.-.-ocable at any time. •The other would be for the sale of the powei developed by the steam plant combined with the power devel-
Too Many Kinds of Money; Not Too Much
A STUDY by treasury officials of the problem of the government's paj»er-money expense has led to the tentative conclusion that the public is being supplied with more denominations in the various kinds of such money than It needs. Assistant Secretary Dewey, under whose direction the study is being made, believes it Is time to correct this result of a topsy-turvy development of the nation's currency over many years by eliminating some of the denominations. If the bureau of engraving and printing's present paper-money output of twenty carloads annually could be concentrated on fewer denominations. It would mean a material saving through quantity production and less confusion to the public. “Without making It too difficult," the assistant secretary continued, "It may be explained that the treasury is now turning out five general kinds of paper money—silver certificates. United States notes, gold certificates, national bank currency and federal reserve currency. “With the latter two we are not
“Career Men” in Diplomatic Service
Frank b.' Kellogg, secretary of state, is the embodiment of a new Idea of diplomacy, and his direction of the foreign affairs of the nation Is significant of a new deal all around. Washington is Just beginning today to realize that “dollar diplomacy" is a thing of the past, and there is the suggestion that the United States, consciously or unconsciousi,, is building up a diplomacy of the Old World. In other words, the United States rapidly is falling into tie custom of the old countries of creating and maintaining professional diplomats. “Career men” they call them at the Department of State—men who have started at the foot of the diplomatic ladder and are climbing slowly but surely into the front rank of the coun try’* representatives abroad. Such a career man. Warren Delano RoMdns of New York, who has been counselor of the embassy tn Berlin, was gazetted recently as counselor of the embassy at Rome. Eventually Mr. Robbins Is to become a minister. Secretary Kellogg is committed to
Octagon House to Get Artistic Marker
OCIAGON HOUSE, at the corner of New York avenue and Eighteenth street. closely identified with many incidents in the enriy history of the national •pltai, is to be more distinctively marked by the Amerhan institute of Architects, which acquired the property several years ago and has used it as its headquarters ever since, leading artists have been invited to devloe a suitable marker for the building. rhe winning design to be selected at the national convention of architects tn New Tdrk city. The sturdy old building is considered one of the best surviving examples <.f the Eighteenth-century type of American Georgian •* Adam period style of town house. It was designed by William Thornton, one of the pioneer architects of the United State*, who also designed the main Capitol building. «hich formed the nucleus of present structure, and at*o the plan of the L’nl.endty of Virginia. He came to this city with his family from Philadelphia in 1798. He held the of
State Has Tax Preference Over Nation
THE Supreme court has banded down two Important tax decisions. In one It was held that states have the right to prescribe tn their inheritance-tax laws the method of determining the market value of property transferred. and td provide that no deduction shall be made from this value In computing the state tax for any Inheritance or estate tax paid to the federal government. This ruling was in a case hronght from California by the executor* of the estate of Henrietta Pierce Watkinson. and was considered of wide Importance not only to states, but to beneficiaries under wills, because of Its material bearing increasing the amount of money states can collect under inheritance tax laws. It was delivered by Justice Stone among the first he has handed down since hit appointment to the bench. Explaining that the gross estate in question exceeded Justice Stone pointed out that California received <3*409 more taxes under the Stipulate ns of its law than It would
oped from the hydro-electric plants to one bidder with some sort of provision in the contract for the availability of the power for the partial operation of nitrate plant No. 2. In this connection it is pointed out that while oiie of the plants will be ready July 1 it will be several months before It will be operating efficiently. The four plants now being constructed at Wilson dam will ultimately develop 100.000 horse power. When tha first one Is completed the government would theoretically have 25.000 horse power to sell. But because of the tests of the machinery and unavoidable difficulties, it is not likely that that amount of power will be delivered for at least six months. The other three units will be ready Jaatary 1 and within six months after tha* time it is expected that the full 100.000 horse power of the development will be available. The Muscle Shoals commission, of which Former Representative John C. McKenzie of Illinois is chairman, was appointed by President Coolidge t< study the question and report to hia next tall.
concerned in this study, but just consider the denominations of the first three kinds. They are issued at five, six and eight denominations, respectively. making a total of nineteen types of ’old-fashioned* money issued directly by the treasury." Mr. Dewey then pointed out that it some way were found to eliminate denominations of the silver certificates, for exan.ple. so as ‘to leave only the one and—bane of the superstitious—the two-dollar bill, the necessity for making three types of bills would be eliminated and by the process he thought the average citizen might get a little setter acquainted with the silver certificate. Some ouiclals who have gone into the subject favored reducing the United States notes one denomination —the five—which would eliminate five denominations of money. Then, the famed yellowback, from the prince of bills, the SIO,OOO note, down to the more or less familiar “ten spot," would be allowed to remain the same with Its range, including also the S2O, SSO, SIOO, SSOO, SI,OOO and $5,000 note to care for all needs above the small denominations.
the new Idea. He may he said to be an expression of the new idea in his present station, for he has been promoted from an ambassadorship to head of the State department. This is In line with the policy of Old-World diplomacy. The promotion of Mr. Kellogg marked a new epoch in American history. Whether he will remain long at the department, or whether other Presidents will follow Mr. Coolidge and select ambassadors to head the cabinet, are questions which only history can answer. It is a fact, however, that for the first time within recollection there is a man in the State department come fresh from diplomatic service and diplomatic associations in the Old World. Washington is wondering what will be the °entual effect of the new American diplomacy—the creation of ministers from counselors of embassies and toe promotion of career men or professional diplomatic representatives all along the line. Heretofore ministers and ambassadors have been appointed for political, p rsonal or commercial . easons.
fice of commissioner of patents for several years, and died here in 1828. His ashes rest In jhe Congressional cemetery and his tombstone bears the chiseled motto. “Deo Spes Meo.” The land on which the Octagon house stand* was acquired by Col. John Tayloe. a wealthy land owner of Virginia, from Gustavus W. Scott for SLUOO. and he arranged with Mr. Downing for the erection there of a winter home for hts family. During its construction, which began in 17M and occupied three years’ time. General Washington, who was a personal friend of Colonel Tay loe, showed great interest in the wort From the time of its first occupancy until the death of Mrs. Tayloe, wife of Benjamin Ogie Tayloe. son of the original owner, in 18Jm, Octagon house was celebrated on both sides of the Atlantic for its generous hospitality. Its must e.entful experience, howler. was its occupancy by Preddent Madison and family for nearly a yeat after the burning of the White House by the British during the War of 1812.
. have received had the federal tax been > first deducted. I Asserting that there is no constltu- ( tional guarantee of equality of taxa- , tion. the justice declared the power t of states to discriminate in fixing the , amount and Incidence of taxation upon , inheritance was undoubted. j The second decision held that any > gain in value must be taken into account on taxes under the 1918 reve- , nue act upon securities purchased be . fore March 1, 1918, and sold in 1819. The court, in deciding a case brought > by the government against the estate , at James J. Flannery, held that the . gain and not the market value on . March 1, 1913, the time fixed in the i law for determining value, or the pur- : chase price, must govern in such ; cases. in 1919 Flannery sold some stock which he had purchased prior to i March 1J 1913. When his executors ; reported on the transaction they claimed that the profit which had been ; made was not taxable income becaus I the revenue act of 1918
Mannish Tailleur and Chic Ensemble
Two Most Popular Fashions of Season Combined in Latest Mode. The mode has acquired a complex—and a Freudian complex to boot, writes a Paris fashion correspondent tn York Herald-Tribune. Having treed Itself from the tyranny of the tubular outline, it has stepped blithely into the maelstrom of the masculine Influence in dress versus the feminine, and milady is still unable to rest easy in the lap of fashion. Contrast the mannish tailleur and the essential feminine ensemble, the simple unadorned suits with the frilly and intricate dresses of the new season, the mold and flare with the straight line, and you will begin to appreciate the numerous conflicting issues which have been raised by the Paris couture. Out of the varied maze of themes it is clearly evident that the mode must either follow the stricter tines of the mannish tailleur, the gentler influence of the feminine ensemble, or else arrive at some happy compromise. '■ The ensemble is the leading exponent of the feminine Influence In spring dress, and it is equally a leader in the revolt from the hackneyed tubular silhouette. The theme, of course, may be and frequently is extended to hats, hosiery, shoes and the various other accessories of dress, but In its essential form it consists of a dress and coat which are brought Into a single identity by means of fabric trimming or fabric design. Die most usual linking liaison is a printed material which is used for the dress and the lining of the coat, and which appears not Infrequently upon sleeves, collar and hemline as well. Granted that there Is no longer anything novel in the theme —it was originally introduced in the winter of 1923-24—its principal virtue lies In the fact that its novel effects cannot be easily Imitated. On that basis Long Coat and Flared Dress. Ensemble dresses are normally of •ilk. principally georgette crepe, satin, crepe-satin, chiffon and taffeta, while the coats are usually developed In wool and silk. Except for Chanel, the Paris designers have chosen the threequarter, seven-eighths or full-length coat to accompany these costumes, and Chanel has chosen the short coat only to be worn with her well-known jumper effects. Redingotes and an occasional suggestion of the dlrectoire are noteworthy in the new ensemble coats. The most frequent combination is the three-quarter kasha coat lined with printed silk and the silk frock with a hemline flare. The only obstacle which prevents the spring ensemble from achieving * landslide this season is the tailored Suit, which Is bravely returning after i dismally cold reception last year. The tailleur boasts a long line of inspiring sponsors this season both in the ranks of the haute monde and In the ranks of the equally haute couture—it is a definite response to the trend toward unadorned simplicity and Its vogue for spring already Is distinctly assured in smart circles. The silhouette of the tallormade Is comparatively undistinguished—it Is short, straight, and subject to none >f the allurements of the frilly ensemble. In Its typical form the tallleur constats of a jacket and skirt of the and either a silk waist or a pique waistcoat. The jackets are short or long, but the skirt does not share that indecision—it is always short, and Is sometimes curtailed beyond the point of artistry.S preference is for the short.
■ Tailor-Made Must Be Tailor-Made
Yet tn the last analysis the gentle ipportunlit will take advantage of a liberal mode and choose according to her type. It isn’t always that the opportunity is presented of selecting freely and -with a definite assurance of correctness, and the chic demoiselle is certain to improve a situation which Is unusual if not unique th the annals of fashion. Only one real danger confronts her, and this she must studiously avoid lest she Join the maiaprops of the mode. When a tailor-made is selected it must be e»s:ntially tailor-made—mannish, severe, and with none of the flaunt Ing femininity of the ensemble And, conversely, the ensemble must avoid the straight rigidity of.the tailieur and embody instead the flare and all the airy fragility of the afternoon dress. A talilenr that Is half ensemble la not a tailieur at all, and an ensemble that la severely tailored bean too dose a resemblance to last year's style* to be smart. Hybrid compromises are decidedly non gnu in the a*H* spring fashions, and every costume must be expressed distinctly
Women Find Unlimited Variety in Lingerie
Women who choose their own styles regardless of the mode may find this season an almost unlimited variety in lingerie. There Is still the woman who will wear white and only white lingerie, varied, perhaps, with an occasional nightgown or slip of the moot delicate shade. For these there are countless models of the daintiest pattern and the finest materials. in silk, georgette, crossbar muslin, voile, handkerchief linen or crepe de chine. gome are shadow-striped or varied with dots or drop stitches, soma models in white are finished with bands of delicately colored batiste, end much lace is used. In this filet is still shown, but the most fashionable laces are Irish, Valenciennes, blicbe; also embroidered net, batiste embroidery and point d’esprit. On all finest lingerie of Parisian autborriiip the delicate needlework known the world over as •‘French embroidery” is used. On the best things of silk or crepe the embroidery is usually done on an inset of net, and
jacket as well —not only because it ' harmonizes with the abbreviated hem* line, but because It stands out In sharp contrast to the long coats of the ensemble. j Let it not be thought, however, that the new tailleur always adheres to the conservative lines of former years. It is true that In fabric and color it .. typically conforms to the substantial, non-radlcal standards of the past, but it has been spurred by the example of the ensemble to acquire many novel details. One of these is the use of opposing materials for the. jacket and skirt; another the featuring of elabo* rate high-colored linings for the jacket, and the repetition of this same color as a trimming for the outside of both coat and skirt. The Mode Compromised. The issue between tailleur and ensemble is still clouded. Each has Its salient points. The ensemble shows o Lanvin Afternoon Frock Combining Navy Blue and White Crepe. a new silhouette—and a changed outline has been one of the urgent needs of the mode for several seasons. The tailored suit Is an entirely different conception and It expresses simplicity unadorned. The first includes ja- . bots, high collars, and all the other frilly furbelows; the second Is plain, in comparatively somber shades, and is developed in the typical, severe O’Rossen manner. The complete wardrobe, of course, will Include both tailleur and ensemble, but there are frugal ladies with limited budgets who are compelled to align themselves with only one of ths spring leaders. For them, these precepts. Both themes are en regie—the ensemble is far the safer cbolca but the tailleur has a more sporting appeal. Its Interlude may be brief and It will not reach the numerical strength of the ensemble this spring, but Its proponents will be found io the most fashionable places.
according to the tenets of Its type. ’ Kasha is the basis of the Lanvin daytime dresses that are seen on the streets of Paris and at the exclusive rendezvous. She uses it in every pastel shade as well as in the striking vivid green hue that bean her name. Used alone It is plaited, embroidered, quilted and painted. Combined with other materials It shows the adaptability of kasha, which is charming with a sllk-Uke surah or printed marocaln and equally attractive with lace or chiffon gowns. Though it is principally utilised for the sports suit and morning frock, Lanvin has extended the use of kasha to the afternoon dress aa well . The polka dot baa taken the place of the large embroidered or applfqued circles that were so popular last season. It is always attractive whether it appean printed on alike and crepe de chine, embroidered in metal threads on taffeta or in fine silk threads on chiffon or organdie. Lanvin uses dots of graduated sizes in haphazard pyramids along the hem of a full-skirted picture dress.
lace Is combined with this, and forms i a finished edge. Red Rages in Paris A red reign prevails in Paris after a ’ prolonged domination of beige and brown tints for women’s wear, and the tailors gnd dressmakers of Paris are busy on bright scarlet costumes. Some beautiful models are being turned out tn the form of one-piece dresses buttoned all down the front I and very narrow In the skirt Th* i frock of tomorrow is even shorter than i that of yesterday. The narrow scarlet suit ends about a foot from the ground, Shoe* Match Rose For months aboes have contrasted I in color with stockings. Now. bow- • ever, st least a part of some of the i new footwear matches the hosiery. • The saddles of these shoes are made i in the stocking shades, while the i vamps and heels are of contrasting 'l‘“T
