The Syracuse Journal, Volume 18, Number 2, Syracuse, Kosciusko County, 14 May 1925 — Page 7

Illinois Again Swept by Destructive Storm II 1- ' .h ;<I . I J S' iBBSSSHHi Two men were killed and damage in the millions of dollars was caused when a ffl>mile gale swept through central Illinois. Peoria was the hardest hit city and struck the Isaac Walker hardware store of Peorls it took the two lives The was made In Peoria. One of the Terrors of the North Atlantic. Is the icebergs jK tn the North Atlantic. One of the nuge masses of here shown. F photographed from the United States cutter Tampa, which Is - patrolling those waters. 'l^ll ' Ji b ill |

Liners to Have Radio Motor Boats II ■ By order of the British Board of Trade, every ocean liner must hereafter carry one wireless motor boat for every ten lifeboats. It will have a talking radius of 100 miles and will be provided with a direction finder. Above la a radio beat of the 8. S. Orbits. ; Child of 4 and Man of 112 Baptized fIH A I Jf JBIF/ HHIHEaaml Lawrence Boersch. four years aid, and Lorenzo Dow Grace, one hundred end twelve years old. who were baptised together al St. Paul’s church, Atlanta. Ge- together with SOO others. T — — ; Facts Worth Knowing

About half the watches bought by Chinese are of Bwl** wake. In early time* beach sand are* n*eitad to make gtaa*. • rtWxa *m*«| niTi*jm awsaaswhluMMßlbfvk tab ■*Hv wWCwI uaW MtXUQGI BlAA|y uk Mexico IB estimated to ba around 100,000. Mia* Betty Dea* of Reading, Pau. l*»o a dtauMr at bar homo W the abt { me she baa aaloctmJ to bo pallbearer*

r« White redact* the beat ray* from tha inn » A railroad to being bufit through Sherwood fnreet. the - rendexvou* of i Robin Hood. I Statistic* show that there are 10,000 local building and loan association* la . the United Staten. t After years of experimenting govera- » ment chemists have perfected a procs-I eaa of extraettag rubber from twou

MAKES RAIN, COLLECTS f <, * •:A 7 1 WET w* o Charles 11. Hatfield of Glendale. CaL who has Just received a cheek sot WIOO frtw W. H. Elllget of Tatars Lake for rainmaking operations from March 15 to April 15. Hatfield h famous for his lecret process of making rain. During operations the pub lie is kept at a distance from bls tower, on which chemicals are mixed and exploded. BORGLUM'S SUCCESSOR Z flv' Tw TL~*''?**i* Augustus Lukeman, New York sculp tor. was appointed to resume work or the Stone Mountain Confederate me mortal, near Atlanta. G*. in succeo slon to Gutson Bor-glum. Tfca Brirfct Sarfa Sir Gilbert Parker, the famous Eng llsh novelist, traveled all the way from London to Aiken to recuperet* from an operation, and had scarcelj arrived when be was knocked down and badly shaken by an automobile. “I have had vesy hard tack la Aiken." Sir Gilbert said in an inter view, -but my optimism remains u» impaired. Bang pessimism I -A pessimist regards each day tta passes as one stidP nearer the grave an optimist one sts» nearer w jhj.’

THE SYRACUSE JOURNAL

Tubular Outline Not Spring Mode

The new spring dress Is easily distinguishable from its Immediate predecessors, says a fashion writer In the New York Herald-Tribune. It has discarded many of the wearisome themes to which the mode seemed indefinitely committed and it marks rhe crystallization of numerous different and progressive tendencies. The principal details of daytime dresses are catalogued below: The tubular silhouette has passed silently out of the picture and In Ha place there are innumerable variations of bodice and skirt, all of them avoiding the absolutely straight line. The mplded bodice appears frequently, but it is not an invariable note. The type. • JU Hi I I 1 xiMW oi ■-■ZXzZzA," I t q Brown Crepe Georgette Laid in Plaits, Banded With Beige Crepe. leal skirt Is wide at the hemline and decidedly shorter than last year’s models. Indeed, the shortness of the French models is often carried to an extreme, which is far from esthetic and will not find favor on these shores. The characteristic skirt length In smart American circles approximates 14 inches off the ground—in Parts it is often as much as 18. Skirt width is achieved by means of inverted and wide box plaits, circular cuts, aprou and panel effects, godets, tunics and gathers. This fullness is not always limited to the skirt hem, starting occasionally as high as the waistline. Remember above all things that the skirt of the afternoon frock is no longer narrow and it must add perceptible width somewhere between the wulst and skirt hem. Preferably this "fullness should be confined to the front, leaving the back fairly fiat. Molded lines ore suggested either for the bodice or over the hips.. The eclipse of the tubular outline added impetus to the teudency toward the marked waist and the smartest of the new French models Invariably incorporate a fairly defined waistline. This appears either at a normal posi-

Coat and Dress Styles Predominate

Long or three-quarter coats predominate for the ensemble and they may be of silk or wool. The full-length topcoat and the redingote are favored styles. Novel effects, such as slashing the coat up the center of the back, or along the side seams for some ten or twelve Inches, are smartest. The dress conforms in ail respects to the details of the afternoon frock except In the cases of sports and.evening en semblee, which are considered under their respective headings. Kasha, surah, crepella. printed silks, satins, cliiffon. wool Jersey foulard, georgette, taffeta and many lightweight coat woolens are among the more prominent materials. Jade, green, purple, mauve, red. black, gray and the lighter shades are the smartest colors. * Revived a year ago. the tailored suit was then a little ahead of It# time and found small place in the general scheme of fashions. Today the mode has been educated up to it and It takes Its position among the chle of the haute monde. The tallleur is the exponent of mannish line! In spring fasb-

Things to Know About Popular Ribbed Silks

As 1* always the case when a new weave “takes" with the public to such an extent as the ribs have, there Is bound to follow a flood of hastily woven goods that wUI prove disappointing to the purchaser. With w> many reputable manufacturer* In the field who are carefully guarding their reputation* by turning out dependable, high-class. ribbed weaves, buyers can show tbeir appreciation of Quality by passing up the poorly constructed weaves, no matter bow attractive the price. The trouble with a poor piece of this doth is the tendency of the ribs to part company. Any doth that has a heavy cross thread or filling, and a very fine warp thread, or vice versa, to likely to split because of the great difference In tbe strength of the thread, s Examine tbs ribbed weave and see that it does not ham too coarse a rib tn comparison with the weight of tbe material. Where a cotton filling la covered by silk W*rp iHiratfli SUxM m V* Buvm

tion. or low or high—the higher line being more generally favored. Sleeves Are Variegated. Much of the decoration of the afternoon mode centers around the new sleeves which are of variegated' types. Long and short sleeves are in evidence, with the former distinctly predominating. Some long ones are molded above the elbow and are wide below, and some reverse this order, but the majority are long and narrow. Tight wrist bands, scarf ends, circular wrist flounces and balloon effects are only a few of the many ways of varying the spring sleeve. Several designers even incorporate sleeves of material and color entirely different from the frock itself. The sleeve Offers a better outlet for Individuality than any other item of spring mode, and here you may let your fancy roam as far afield as you wish. Only bear in mind this single adjuration—avoid the sleeveless street frock. Several Paris designers have again offered it. but it is nevertheless distinctly an evidence of poor raste. Crepella. surah, taffeta, kasha, satin, alpaca, chiffon, lace, cire chiffon and satin, plain and printed crepe de chine, georgette crepe, crape Romain, organdie. wool crepe and mousseline are among the mere prominent spring fabrics. Colors are even more numerous. Gray and tvois de rose stand out above the others, but green, mauve, red, black, chartreuse yellow, numerous shades of blue and beige and the pastel hues are also important. Here is another opportunity for type expression and you may choose your spring fabric and color mueb according to your personal taste. Besides the infinite ways of varying the wide skirt, yokes. Jabots, floating panels, revers, patch pockets, button tyhninlng, lingerie collars and cuffs, soutache, silver-block letters bearing the name or Initials of the wearer amt bead fringe are used to embellish the new afternoon dresses. The collar, still Important, remains fairly high and much of the bodice variation centers around it and the shoulders. Novelty of the Ensemble. The novelty of the spring ensemble Hee in its distinctly new details rather than In rhe Idea Itself, which dates ita naissauce back several seasons, in many quarters it is believed that the ensemble tbenie has become a permanent fixture in the mode, due to the fuct that it cgnnot be easily and accurately copied. Elsewhere the opinion is that it has reached its peak and from now on will gradually recede in popularity, i We incline to the latter opinion as far as the ensemble In its present typical form is concerned — but we believe that. the theme wll'. reappear consistently in the future, albeit in entirely new guises. Salient details of the spring ensemble are appended. ' ; The term ensemble, applied to fashions. is used to indicate a note of identity appearing on two or more different parts of the costume. It may include hat. stockings, shoes and accessories. but It ordinarily connotes the linking of coat and dress through a relationship in fabric, color or design. Typical ensembles have ft»e containing and the dress of the same fabric—often printed—hut many new ensemble expressions have been introduced for spring. Some of the novelties are the sleeveless coat ensemble, the woolen coat and silk frock combination. the short coat and the jumper frock, the coat forming a direct contrast instead of matching the dress, and the kasha coat worn In combination with a lace drees. It is advisable to select from one of the novelty combinations. if you intend to fare forth in a spring ensemble. .

lons, and as such is directly opposed to the gentler spirit of the ensemble. Both are en regie thia season —and if only one Is your portion, yon may choose according to your type. Tallleur characteristics follow: There is little opportunity for innovation in the tailored, silhouette and It usually conforms to the straight and slim contour. Both jacket and skirt depart occasionally from the narrow silhouette, the former through the bolero or loose coat lines and the latter through a plaited fullness usually concentrated alt the front. Generally the coat and skirt are developed in the same material while the blouse, strictly tailored, is of one of- the heavier silks When ihe waist coat Is substituted it is usually of a material such as white pique. There are. however, frequent instances of Jacket and skirt in contrasted fabrics. Cheriut . being a particular exponent of this idea. Skirts are invariably, quite short and slender In effect, but coats are hi|rlength and knee-length, the former predominating. The hip-length coats are more typical of the mannish idea.

ity that It will not wear through tan mediately and’ expose the cotton on dementh. Hold the piece up to th* light and examine the little “valley’ tn between the ribs to see that it doet not consist of so much lighter yarn* that the heavier cord may cut it and your doth begin to wear out along the ribs. You recognise the failles by. tb« “flat" construction—the cords being hot so round as in the poplins anc grosgrains, and so not so conspicuous Bengaline Is a silk fabric, with a wwt or cotton filling, with cords heavlei and larger than poplin. Ottoman has pronounced filling corda larger than those of bengaline Collars of Summer Fur Small, high soft collars of summet fur are the feature of many of Um heavy corded sUk coats so popular for the spring ensemble costumes. Fre-thj-.w collars are double, eunaquenuy lueae material is squirrel «U-nk ' T ■ ' or ftteta. ■ < /

FASCINATING TUB FABRICS; MODISH TAILORED TOPCOATS

AY deceivers indeed are the new tub-fabrics. One has to be let into the secret that wash materials “as is" this season are really and truly so. They do not betray the fact as far as appearance goes. Indeed, they possess all the elegance and fascination of higher priced genuine silks and woolens, and it takes an expert to classify them. The ambitious home dressmaker who feels the annual spring urge to roam through aisles of wash-goods splendor, has many happy surprises in store. Where once the simple gingham and percale held sway, are bolts of ravishing materials, chief among which are wash silks which are not silk at all.

. JBMIOIIb B ill = r t W Hi of-, a ’ Shows Fastidious Tailored Touch.

but wonderfully mercerized cotton, likewise plalded and striped cotton and silk-mixed cheviots which look like they cost dollars per yard instead of cents. These silks-to-all-appearance are wrought In all-over figured patterns as Channing and intriguing in design as the most exclusive foulard or gay print. Awning and candy stripes are particularly stressed. Surely it is a gala year for the seamstress who would “try her luck** in making at least her Informal dresses herself. Not only are the materials inbut Madame Mode holds forth the extra inducement of recom-

■ i"rWx' IJ " wjj i njr •■feT .LJ' htaX

Charming Frock Easy to Copy, mending plenteous hand embroidery, byway of embellishment. One would make no mistake in copying the charming frock as it appears In this picture. A few yards of wash cheviot. In such obtainable combinations as royal blue plaided with yellow •chre and rose, or henna with beige will serve admirably as a medium for deft fingers to fashion along lines suggested by this model As to embroidery, it expresses itself, this season, in realistic bouquets, strewn in artistic manner, as defined in the picture. The “shoulder bouquet” idea finds naive Interpretation on many a frock Small tiatg ropuiar Most women are sticking to the small hats with the back brims a trifle more apparent than the winter style* jnd shaped to the neck. Milan and silk ribbon, soft French felt and the straw braids combined with silk are Traveling Coat A traveling coat which would also be excellent for motor wear Is of hrown suede ttned with sntetepe r ■■

this season, through means of hand stitching. For instance, • rose-hued linen, made in one-piece fashion has a bouquet of daisies and violets embroidered on the left shoulder, positioned sitrfllcr to the bouquet of artificial flowers. The ideal of what a smart spring wrap should be, is realized in the season’s collection of handsomely, yet practically, styled topcoats. Fashionists are making it a point to, introduce unique and fastidious tailoring touches which lend infinite charm without detracting from genuine service and use fulness. The mode offers supreme contrast . in these tailored coat silhouettes with

out suggesting the eccentric. The smartly costumed woman has her choice of the straightllne coat ths flared coat" or the mannish doublebreasted coat. An interesting version of the straightline contour Is presented in this picture. A novel feature introduced in the newer models is elaboration of cut concentrated at the back of the coat. It is the treatment of a back-panel which gives chic to ths model illustrated. That the slim silhouette is in no way detracted from through this novelty panel testifies to the consnmmate art of the designer.

Other high lights in this garment are the curious slashed or tabbed cuffs, also tbe fact that light and dark cloth are combined. In this instance silver gray with stone gray. In some of the new models an out- , standing point of interest is tbe shoulder treatment A distinguishing note is the epaulet shoulder cut in one with the sleeve. Yoke effects are subtly embodied in the new wraps; indeed, yokes in every conceivable form characterize tbe present-day modes. The man-tailored coat is a subject of vast import fashioned In smart woolen mixtures, tweeds, cbarmeen and handsome plaids. Velvet collars , and double-breasted are tbe two prominent points of interest in these models. Double-breasted top-coats developed from plaid shawls with fringe finisn at the lower edge are among the noveltie* of the season. These preserve rhe conventional notched collar, and the long close-fitting sleeve. There is quite a ripple of excitement caused by tbe Sudden turn of the tide in favor of navy blue. JULIA BOTTOMLET. (ft. W—t«rn H.w«p«p«r Onton.! Deep Frill* for Cuff* Cuffs worn on the new tight-sleeved afternoon frocks are mostly turnback*, • They are formed of plaited ruffles ot organdie at least 6 inches deep, which stand well away from the forearm and which emphasizes the grace of the wrist and .hand below them. Prevent* Colors From Fading Before washing -otton stockings put * handful of common salt in-tbe wartk Ing water. Thto will set the dye.