The Syracuse Journal, Volume 17, Number 28, Syracuse, Kosciusko County, 6 November 1924 — Page 7
OUR COMIC SECTION
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Our Pd Peeve
THE SYRACUSE JOURNAL
Slim Silhouette Now in Danger
Flared Hemline Threaten* to Gain Approval of Women of Pari*. The Indecision of the Parts coo tore has caused a rift In the hitherto harmonious let* of fashion.' Months before tbs opening In August, says n Parts writer la the New York HeraldTribune, there came rumblings of discontent from critics, who insisted that the straight atlbouetta had outlived Its day and that a definitely different outline was essential for the autotnn season. Oa tbe other hand, there were the countless devotees of the silts line, amounting to almost a call, who contended tint the esthetic appeal and tbe simple charm of current styles could not be supplanted by any bouffant or Intricate effects. Your Parts designer Is nothing if not a diplomat, and he shrewdly declined the Issue by offering milady her choice of several distinct silhouettes. Far from settling the question, this attitude naturally enough drew the lines of battle still doaer, until todays with the autumn season inaugurated, the usual symphonic family of the mode hns been disrupted Into two opposing camps. It is true that the offering of a wide divertissement of styles by the French* couture has come to he a matter of I* ! j Henna-Colored Benqaline Frock is Trimmed With Skunk Pelt. course In recent seasons. The unprecedented growth of fashion and consequent artistic competition have been responsible for more varied efforts on the part of the couturier. Long Sleeves Approved. Compared to these normal tendencies of the mode, the trend this autumn has been a paradox. The Paris creators have agreed upon the details and have proceeded to diversify the keystone. The long and narrow sleeve Is an accepted fact In autumn fashions—it Is definitely a part of the plctnre. The high neckline Is another detail upon which the couture If In
Many Double Effects Are Featured
Perhaps the most prominent of the adherents of the fuller silhouette Is Gahrleile Chanel. Her skirts are Invariably mt on circular lines and a flare at the hemline, sometimes slight and sometimes clearly marked, is always apparent. The coats of this designer are usually fitted slightly at the waist and employ godets and gathers to achieve the desired full effect. Like every other member of the Paris couture. Chanel has recognised the appeal of the ensemble, which li a distinct! v# feature of her collection. A striking ensemble consists of a brown velvet coat that has smocking across the shoulders at the hack and a belt, also at the back, that ties in a loose how at the side. It Is lined with pale green crept tomato and word over a dress of the same green crepe that has narrow, fiat flounces in three groups from waistline to hem. A new Idea In her coats Is a very interesting double effect which is achieved by means of contrasting materials. For instance, a coat to a brown anJ beige novelty rod ter material la made to look as If It were 1
Pointers to Remember When Selecting Blouse
In selecting the sort of Mouse you probably will want to wear moat often with your suit— the semi-tailored one. suitable for street, train and business —your primary considerations should be simplicity of cut and material. You can select a dainty hut tailored looking wash material, or you can choose some substantial silk in shades to match the suit But there always should be long sleeves and relatively high neck mi the tailored blouse, and “gew-gaws” should be absent Tbe Mouse-to-match-the-sult Idee Is even more desirable for semi-dress wear. Such a blouse, usually a silken overblouse, gives the wearer a charming air of being “well put together." and It given her com ume the effect of the fashionable three-piece suit Or. the semi-dress blouse may be of lighter shade and washable material, and may show Its contrast to tbe strictly tailored blouse only by the addition of a feminine frill, or a bit of embroidery-Semi-dress blouses of titter type may 3sfe - -'i* ivsv".' :' 'lt * t r f :
harmony, and Its place, too, la secure and safe In the autumn mode. Another general point of accord Is tbe abbreviated skirt, which with some designers falls seventeen inches 'hort of terrestrial paths, and which averages between fourteen and fifteen. To which must be added tbe ensemble and the tunic, each of which occupies a prominent place in every collection. Consider now tbe silhouette, which has ever been tbe traditional basis of every new season's fashions. The straight, slim line has dominated the situation for the last half dosen seasons, and while Its supremacy has been sporadically challenged, there has never been a strong, determined effort to displace It from its easy throne—at least, not until the present season, when. In deference to a request which came partly from society and which was partly professional, two other silhouettes were submitted. These were not offered to the exclusion of the perennial straight line, which still runs its merry course, hht rather as supplementary outlines. The newcomers are the dlrectoire silhouette and the molded bodice snd flared hemline combination. Patou, for instance, has once more followed the slim, youthful line which has always been his, but even this designer has harkened to the siren call of the flare, and has introduced It by means of the godet. Lanvin, particularly in her evening gowns, has perceptibly widened the hemline. Callot has built her collection principally around the slender outline of last spring. She adheres to the slender line without exception in tailormudes and morning frocks, but lias Iqtroj duced an occasional flare in formal gowna Molyneux Is entirely unable to j resist the charm of the boyisl mode, * and has adopted the straight line to I the exclusion of all others. Worth : mixes his palette and offers a little of each. Cherult. Premet and Bechoff exploit the directolre outline. Chex Jenny the line Is straight youthful with here and there a slight circular movement or fullness—Just enough to lend variety to this very Interesting collection. All of which Is sufficient to indicate that there is no unanimity of opinion In Paris on the subject of the silhouette, however much the creators may agree on the Incidental details of the mode. The Directoirs Outline. We are aided in lorecustiug die future of these silhouettes by the international polo mutches at Westbury, which, because of the attendance of. the prince of Wales, attracted an unprecedented gathering of society. Using the clothes worn at this function as a criterion. It is evident that the adherents of the straight, slender outline are still in a clear majority Yet there was a very distinct sprinkling of tlie Hared skirt* effects. sometltnes exploited quite boldly and sometimes offered a little timorously. It was significant, however, that these new tendencies received the most en couragement from -those women win* are notably smart dressers. Our Own opinion Is that It wPI he another season before a new silhouette takes a definite place In the domains of fashion—that many of the designers who groped timidly to Want something different In the August showings will take a firmer fitnno when the February spring openings arrive. Wc believe that even the mldsenson exhibitions, which take place in November, will display, definite tendencies away from straighi simplicity. For the present, however, the übiquitous slender silhouette is ‘its current fare of tbe mode. The new outlines, distinctly modish, may l»e rategoried aa caviar—caviar to the queen.
loose rack over an undercoat of nutria. and is tut to flaps ft the hack to show more of the fur. which also appears ail around it. Many coats are double fronted, so thqt the tpiier part may flap hack, while the under front. In a different material, ta held across the figure. The same Idea Is noted <n capes, of which there are several In the collection, both for day and .evening wear These are three-quarter length. One in sealskin has s high turnover collar of royal blue faille, which lines the cape, and there Is a quilted inner front whlcu has slashes for the anus to pass through, and is. held across to the manner described above. Elaboration Is the dominating note of the evening and formal afternoon coats Covers for End Table End table covers should be of rhe same general shape as the fable tops and. generally, are not larger than the tops themselves. An oral table, however, may have a rectangular cover, with edges necessarily hanging over.
er of neckline than la the tailored blouse. The true dress Moose, to be worn, 1 usually, to the evening or for a formal I afternoon function, may be quite or* i nate and of a material as fragile as you like, such as crepe chiffon or lace, s It may be quite low of neck, and Is often entirely sleeveless. But do not i buy such a Mouse for business. Finally, and to a class ail to Itself. I there la the sports blouse, the rightful accompon meat of the sports suit The ( sports blouse should, above all, be cone ( fortahle and eerily laundered, it may i have either tong or short sleeves, according to which belter suits your pur : ppse. and the neck may be cut away ot , high. See -that tbe material to th« sports Moose you bay Is plain and sub- ; stantial. and that there is no flouting r ornamentation to hamper you. ■ Novel Garters of Stack Satin Garters of black satin ribbon are fia ished with small heads printed to tnp^
Coats Achieve Varied Styling; Winter Hats to Suit Everyone
IN OOATS the mode conchas- to show much partiality for simplicity and even severity of line, and there Is no question that the straightline outergarment Is •‘correct.’* This is reassur ing knowledge, bnt every woman aspires to own a coat that is even more than correct —she wants one that Is distiffttive. Designers strive by different means to achieve this desired the use of novel fabrics or by unusual decorative features or originality In design and management of styles. Tbe creator of the charming coat shown hors chose unusual decoration
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to place It In the ranks of those that claim distinction. Like muny winter coats it fastens to one aide and is made of wool velours, with straight, standing collar of fur. Ixaips of braid placed in rows, to a novel arrangement make a beautiful finish for it and one that has tlie additional feature of being thoroughly practical as well. To be chic and practical at the same time. Is all that any coat needs, to lie popular as well. This is a consummation devoutly to be wished —the end
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VERSATILE WINTER HATS that all designers strive for. Beautiful fabrics that wear well help solve tbe problem for manufacturers, snd there are novel stripes and plaids, new patterns In flamingo cloth, corded silks and fabric furs that need almost nothing In the way of decorations, bring highly decorative to themselves. Fur bandings are liked for them to collar and cuffs, and occasionally bordering the hemline or front fastening. When plain materials are used tbe styling Is varied by ingenious collars, Jabots, three-tiered capes or Odd front openings. Here are five winter hats, each one beautiful and interesting, but each entirely different from all the others. If the group contained fifty hats It la likely that the same things Canary Yellow Mach in Uso For frocks, sports suits and hats, a deep canary yellow is extensively featured as one of the smartest colors for summer. Entire costumes carry out this si ogle color scheme and it Is also used to conjunction with white. Earrings That Charm A pair of earrings that are slightly different are of white Jade. Tbe pendants are very long and are carved to suggest baskets of flowers.
could be said of them for there was never so much diversity In headwear as there Is now. Or perhaps It seems that way since the reaction came and we turned our backs on the small so universally worn. The group starts off with one of those soft off-the-face velvet shapes with a wayward brim widened at the front and caught to the crown with a ribbon and fabric ornament at the right side. This is one of many that keep to the right In placing their trimmings. When winter comes we shall see many soft off-the-face hats, some of them covered with the most
A CHARMING COAT
brilliant embroideries and gold braidings. Others go further and are set with ni«»ck jewels, Hnd queens are not more gorgeously crowned than their wearers will be. “Spuin’’ is written on the hat at the right quite as plainly as If the great seal of state hud been atlixed to it. It is one of many popular sailor models with u row of sequins about the brim edge and a chin strap of moire rlhlam which appears to slip through the brim, for it crosses the crown. Many a youthful head adds to its attractions
when this picturesque hut adorns iif The model is in black. A beautiful velvet hat in which ■ light facing relieves the dark covering Is shews in the center of the group. It is a forerunner of the mode in flower-trimmed bats for midwinter. Its crown Is high and made higher by 1 two huge silk and velvet roses jK»sed ' at the left side. Many color combinations are possible in bats of this kind and they look best on the dignified : heads of mature types. At the lower right a chic velvet hat, with an eccen- ' trie brim line is shown —it lias a flare : of ostrich across the back—-likely to be in flame color and a gold cord about i tbe crown. It wllj find its proper resting place above an animated face. Felt and velvet are combined In {he familiar shape that finishes the group i and it is trimmed with one of those i white-tipped black pompons that have ■ so ranch style. « JULIA BOTTOMLEY. 1 (©. 1t34, WMtra Newspaper Union.) Coming in Again i A considerable change is predicted . in footwear. The oxford is coming Is • again for loiomn. Heels will not be t very high," the Cuban being most often i seen. Golf Coat Useful The golf-coat sweater is a useful ’ thing. It may be worn at the conn . try club, on the links or for horse , back riding, and it Is worn on all the* occasions.