The Syracuse Journal, Volume 17, Number 24, Syracuse, Kosciusko County, 9 October 1924 — Page 7

OUR COMIC SECTION

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THE SYRACUSE JOURNAL

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Cruise of the U. S. Fleet to Australia

WASHINGTON.— A I t hough there are rumors that It will be necessary to cal! off the proposed cruise of the fleet to Australia next summer on account of the unsatisfactory condition of the ships and lack of funds to put them in first-class shape, arrangements for the fleet exercises in Hawaiian waters and the cruise, in accordance with the schedule announced some time ago, continue to lie worked gut in detail, and there is no present intention of abandoning any feature of the project. The schedule contemplates transfer of some of the scouting fleet from the Atlantic to the west coast, where they will join the naval forces now In the Pacific and proceed to Hawaii for tactical exercises. Upon completion of the exercises, soote of the ships will proceed on the Australian cruise. The naval authorities are working on the theory that It will be possible to keep the ships in such a state of repair as will enable them to carry out the schedule and that funds will be avail able for fuel. The funds for the fiscal year commencing July 1, 1925, will be

Medical Corps of Army Needs Recruits

Maj. gen. meritte w. Ireland. surgeon general of the army, has been giving special consideration to the situation that confronts the anny medical corps in the constantly increasing vacancies, with slight prospects of their being filled in the near future. In view of this situation, it Is felt that some uncommon measures must be taken to secure graduates of the medical colleges for the army. It Is believed by Gen. Ireland that the opportunities afforded by the medical corps should attract graduate physicians, but he does not favor any attempt to increase available candidates by a reduction In the high standard that has been adopted. Approval has been given by the secretary of war to recommendations of rhe surgeon general and chief of cavalry for establishment of a medical squadron as a new organization In the First cavalry division in Texas, to take effect January 1. 1925. This squadron will Include a headquarters, one collecting troop, one ambulance troop, one hospital troop, and one veterinary troop, with 1.3 officers

American Horses at the Olympic Games

A PERUSAL of the report stile twitted to the American Remount association by Lieu’. Col. Harry N. Cootes. cavalry, military attache. American legation at Vienna, who represented the association as one of the jutlgds of the Jury of appeals at the equestrian games, eighth Olymplade, conclusively shows that if America entertains any hoj>e of being returned victor in these international equestrian competitions, she must be governed by two things. They are: First, the horses must be perfectly trained, and. second, they must be thoroughbred animals. * In the Paris games, the program included the Individual schooling of the horses, the endurance test and obstacle jumping. In the individual schooling of the horse event, a splendid demonstration was made. In the gruelling endurance test, which consisted of a course 36 kilometers (22*4 miles) in length over roads, cement pavement, steeplechase grounds and pathways. Maj. Sloan Doak. on Pathfinder, finished third, while Lieut. Frank L. Carr, on Proo

To Explore Bottom of Gulf of Mexico

INCALCULABLE benefits to the people of the United States may result from an expedition to be conducted by the hydrographic office of the Navy department next year for the exploration of the bottom of the ocean, starting with the Gulf of Mexico. From the data collected the following direct results are possible, according to naval officials who have conferred en the program for the proposed survey: Long-distance weather forecasting Rainfall and temperature in the Kuntb and Middle West depend directly on conditlons In tl»e Gulf of Mexico which, at present, are practically unknown. Careful measurements will be taken which may make It possible to determine the weather for one or two vears ahead. Iteflnlte location of great oil reserves under the floor of the gulf. By a geographic knowledge of the ocean Itnttom it will be possible to determine just where drillers are likely to strike oil. It Is conshlered probable that enough oil can be obtained from this

Congress Will Take Up Civil Service

WITH revlsloa of the civil service retirement and disability law promised consideration ss the first important legislation to be taken up when congress reassembles. those who are fathering this measure not only In the Interests of the workers worn out In the federal service, but also ft»r real efficiency and economy have fortified their cause with a strong statement by Joseph S. McCoy, government actuary, showing that It te emphatically “good businesstor Uncle Sam. Senator Robert N. Sunfield of Oregon. chairman of the civil service committee of the senate, has made arrangements for bringing the new retirement bill up on December IL The house rules committee has promised Representative Frederick R. Lehlbach of New Jersey, chairman of the house civil service committee, and Robert H. Alcorn, chairman of the Joint confer ence on retirement, representing fully

1 drawn upon for the Australian cruise, t which is scheduled to commence after f that date » Only one battleship, the Wyoming, . flagship of the scouting fleet; eight i light cruisers, twenty-four destroyers, t one destroyer-tender and several aux- . iliaries of that fleet will join the units' on the west coast, making the transit . of the Panama canal between FebI ruary 17 and 25. After engaging in gun I nery and other practices in the vicint ity of San Pedro. Cal., the combined , fleet will leave for Hawaii in April. Four of the light cruisers will be J • the only ships of the scouting fleet > that will participate in the Australian ■ cruise with vessels of the battle fleet. . The other ships of the scouting fleet will leave Hawaii early in June for f San Diego, Cal., and late In June they I will leave that port for the east coast. . being scheduled to go through the > Panama canal aimut July 1. » The vessels assigned to the Ausi tralian cruise will leave Hawaii early > in July and return to that place about the middle of September and they wifi I leave about September 21 for San > Pedro.

and enlisted mon in the war- • strength table. The present allow- . am*e for the cavalry division is one > animai-drawn ambulance company, and one veterinary company. The new . organization will provide a greatly hn- . proved medical service. As a result of examinations conducted In July of candidates for appointment to the army medical corps, only one candidate was found qualified, Dr, Prentice L. Moore of Marion. Texas. Another examination will be held in October. Reports coming to the bureau of militia affairs indicate continuance of i increase In the personnel of the Na--1 tional Guard. The corrected reports for June show a total of 176.382. and telegraphic reports for July reveal a ' strength of 185.500. The increase has been checked to some extent during August, in view of instructions sent ■ out by direction of the secretary of > war not to permit augmentations that would create a deficit in available appropriations. It being desired to keep the National Guard strength within I the aggregate contemplated by the api propriatlons made at the last session.

. tor. was eighth. Major Doak also took . third place in the obstacld-jumping event. No America* horses participated in the schooling event. 1 After a thorough study of the results of the recent games, American horse experts have arrived at the con- ’ elusion that If America has any hopes , of winning her share of the.equestrian honors, two things must l» done. First. > the c!ean-blo«»ded horses possessed by America must be distributed to a num . -her of army officers for training and, t secondly, after a course of training, a competition should be held as a result of which the horses will be selected to , compose the American team. » Other governments. It Is pointed out.* I grant monetary concessions to their Olympic riding teams with w'hlch thoroughbred horses are purchased. Through the efforts of the American . Remount association was the Ameri- ■ can tenm sent abroad and a grAit ileal • of credit belongs .to this worthy.ori ganization for the showing made by . our teams which entered the Paris competition against terrific odds.

source to tide the nation over many years after the land supplies have t>e<n exhausted. ■ Locution of fishing grounds. The Gulf of Mexico is nnnmiully prolific in edible fish. Their capture at present, however, is largely a matter of ehnnee. Nobody knows the headquarters of many of the schools or, their wanderings at various times of the year. Determination of the food supply of fish ' Study of the origin and Amrse of the Gulf stream. Tlds ocean current vitally affects the climate of the Atlantic coast. Study of the causes and origins of ocean storms. While the exploration will be Id charge of the Navy department It will be largely in the form of a co-opera-tive enterprise l»etween the different government services. The U. S. S. Solace. built as a merchant ship In 1.896 and used as a hospital ship during the Sirtffiisii-American war. will be used. It has a 20-foot draft and 500-ton displacement.

tion early in rhe coming session will be given this measure. The principal changes In the proposed bill over the present law are: (!) It increases the contribution of the employees from 2*4 to 314 per cent, so that they themselves will pay for the increased benefits. (2) It Increases annuities from $720 as a maximum to $1,200. (3) While the retirement age remains the same, tional retirement la provided for after 30 years of service, provided the employee baa reached sixty-three years of age. Mechanics, letter carriers, laborers and post office clerks may retire after 30 years when they have reached fifty-eight years of age. The new measure also provides for a better accounting system. It directs the civil service commission to keep a careful record of employees, and directs the Treasury department to maintain an account showing the annual liabilities of the government un der the act and to keep such other accounts as may be deemed necessary I for proper adtanlßlatratiook

New Fall Models for Young Girls

The wardrobe of a schoolgirl, especially if she Is going to boarding school, is a far more complex problem than it once was. Life there, says a fashion writer in the New York Times, is less simple, children are more sophisticated. and their style of dress lias changed with the years and the seasons just as that of their elders has changed. More and more children are permitted to exercise their own taste, to express their Individuality in dress. The simplicity which is the declared standard in fashions for children Is. in the better things, an expensive luxury—also like that of the grown-ups. The uncomplex, straightline types that have been in vogue for several seasons blur the Hue between the junior styles and those more mature and many of the frocks the smartly dressed child these days are built on very much the same plan as her mother’s. American girls have always known what they wanted, beginning with the wee ones—only In the past they have had less assurance in expressing themselves_ Nowadays, however, the designers of exclusive frocks for children will say that quite as much thought, skill and diplomacy are required to please their young patrons as in gowning the leaders of fashioq, Youth learns quickly. The youngsters absorb ideas. They have become qiiite the connoisseurs. From them one hears all about the “silhouette,” color scheme, one-piece, ensemble and all the other terms that express the np-to-date costume —also, all that anyone else could know about the shingle, the Dutch cut. the boyish bob and all the other bobs. No severer critics can be found than one’s schoolmates. Comparisons may be ill-mannered, but they are felt. The girl who is correctly dressed, perhaps ultrasmart, is quickly an acknowledged person of distinction. Every woman knows that, quite apart from every other consideration, her small daughter must meet this situation. Styles for children were never more attractive than the models show them to be this season. Reflecting the features of clothes for older women, the new things for girls between the nges of ten and sixteen are chic, artistic and lacking in the extremes that have already seen their day. It Is now conventional to be conservative. Kimono Pattern as Guide. The kimono pattern, after which so many gowns are cut. continues to be the guide for informal frocks. It will he the foundation especially used for utility garments, as well as form any others. Anything which so simplifies the making of frocks of many different kinds of material will not soon be given up. Os course, the ways In which *this kimono shape may be treated. var!e<l and disguised are numerous. Os Itself, and in plain goods. It is a tub frock, a sport dress, a tunic or blouse, or any other sort of pracL’cnl garment. No pattern less primitive offers such inducement for the most engaging styles of needlework—peasant embroidery, Russian cross stitch. French white work, braiding, applique—every form and phase of decorative elaboration now in vogue. With the kimono, one pie<-e is a common mflde. But there are many novel nqd diverging fashions to make the schoolgirl happy and proud and to give her mother reflected glory. Long, tight sleeves and several other new styles are conspicuous in the models for fnll for all practical frocks, the schoolroom and street dress. Following the latest Parisian styles, they are shown also In many of the gowns of softer materials. With both the very long sleeve and the coat model w hite cuffs are worn, which match the eton or shallow round collar and give

Ribbon Used for Trimming

AH of these simple frocks, suitable fr>r school, for the street or for general wear in the autumn —whether they are cut in a tailored one-piece coat frock or )i variant of the sailor suit—are trimmed with braid, buttons or ribbons. A few of the more severe type are stitched or tucked. These new braids and fancy ribbons are a distinct feature of the fall market In trimmings. They are displayed with commendable effect on frocks for 'girls of all ages, from the kindergarten kid to the grown-up college freshman. Ribbon is. of course, used most to trim the softer materials, the crepes, voiles. s;it Ins and all the novelty fabrics of which the afternoon frocks and the pretty dresses for dancing parties and young people’s teas are made. In the latest imported and American designs fancy gauze, metal and plain satin ribbons are shown in flutings, gathered frills and plain bands. However it may be introduced, ribbon Is youthful. It is dainty and gives a dressy finish to the simplest frock. In a sweetly pretty little dress a young lady might wear to tea or dinner, built

Waistlines Scarcely Exist,* Says an Authority

in the morning frankly short, in the afternoon often ankle length and even trailing on the floor tn the evening, akirt lengths vary according to the type of wearer, style of costume and the occasion. But ail lengths agree on two things, says a fashion authority In the Indianapolis News, that backs must be quite flat and. If waistlines are indulged in at ail. they must be very, very lung. Only the merest hint of a returning directolre period la shown in a few jabots and high collars, or here and there a slim waistcoat. Some of the frocks and most of the •oats hang straight from the shoulders, but some coats flare oat widely and frock fullness varies considerably below the waistlines. There are not many side drapes but godets and circular pieces abound. And what a surprise not to see more tailored suits! However, their cousins, the coat dresses, resemble them doeely ? with their waistcoats and blouses ahd attached capes. The three-piece cos-

to a dark wool dress the daintiest and quaintest appearance. Next to the sleeve the most Important innovation is the tunic blouse, which Is much liked, particularly by the girl of tall, slim lines. This la a tremendously useful type of frock, for it makes possible several changes ofc tunic with one slip. Those done tn nee«llework are an absolute fad among girls who are modishly dressed. The circular flounce, too, adds novelty to some of the latest models, and some charming frocks for little girls are done in this way—adorable things for dancing school. Plaiting is important. Some exceedingly smart frocks are shown with a straight one-piece tunic to the hip, lengthened with a fine-plaited flounce, which forms a smart, piquant skirt. This sort of thing is just what the girl needs who is adding to her inches rapidly, who is self-conscious and a bit gauche. In one new design plaited material is attached to a raglan yoke just below the shoulder and forms the frock, with a straight-length back and front, held iu slightly with a narrow strap sash and tied in a bow, with long ends at each side. One-Piece Frock Is Favorite. In design the one-piece frock is the highest bidder for favor—a straight model, the line cut across just above the hip by stitching on the stirt, which may be straight and narrow, slightly on the bias, or plaited. The frock, with its unbroken line from collar to hem. Is exceedingly smart. In the new models it is given a trim, almost military air by a touch of braid of a contrasting color and rows of buttons. For example, this little tailored affair is presented by an American designer In Dutch blue kasha made in straight, unbelted tines, the sleeves tight-fitting and to the wrist. Down the front from collar to low waistline and at each side, outlining the top of , w, pocket and at right angles to the £nee. is a strip of scarlet braid two inches wide with a row of dark pearl buttons sewn in the middle. Wltlif this practical, stylish dress for the girt of fourteen to sixteen are worn collar and cuffs of plain, unstiffened linen. ' finished In white needlework. The sailor suit which became almost a uniform a few years ago- has been superseded by other styles of much the same character, which serve the same occasions, but they have the additional virtue of being more interesting. In a dark-blue slipover twill concession Is made to the navy model, blouse and skirt all In one, with a large sailor collar and a touch of metal j in the buttons that show on a tiny vest and on the long sleeves. A French model along these tines. I designed for a young lady of fifteen, i has several rows of braid added to the collar at the back, which form a trimming of several perpendicular straps at each side, well below the hip. and down to the hem in a single row. leaving a space the width of a panel In the front. This frock has the popular narrow strap of the cloth loosely tied |at one side. This trimming with braid and buttons is quite the thing and is done in many different and delightful ways. One of the prettiest of the new models for little girls is a brown wool rep in coat-frock lines, straight and boxy, with a wide lielt of tlie material stitchetl on. and finished with one end turned up and stitched in a point. Short pieces of scarlet and white braid are sewn at close spaces upward from the belt, and a tied strap and ends of the cloth finish one side under the arm. Large red buttons close Ute dress at one side, from belt to shoulder. Collar and cuffs of white cloth bordered i with red are worn with it

of crepe de chine of aquamarine blue, the long-waisted tunic bodice has short kimono sleeves, and an apron front ties at the back over a slip of the same material. Silver and rose ribbon Is fluted in short strips to form a border around the bottom of tunic and sleeves, and on the ends of a long, narrow strap of the material which Is caught at the back of the round neck and loosely tied in front. Taffeta and Velvet White taffeta and black velvet, always aflovely combination, are at their best at present in an evening wrap. The wrap is of white taffeta with a wide black Tiny black velvet flowers ate scattered hit or miss over Jhe Which fastens with black velvet streamers <rf very wide ribbon. Brings Out Luster of Bronze A little sweet oil applied to bronzes after they are dusted, followed by a brisk rubbing with a chamois skin, will bring out their rich tones.

» tume is exceedingly smart and the de i mand for them is brisk. . ■ Stamped Garments Shown * i ♦ Among Summer Novelties ' A thrifty suggestion is contained in i the quantities of stamped garments t that are shown among the summer nort eltles. Lingerie gowns, negligees, t blouses of silk, voile, crepe, muslin, i linen, are stamped in pretty patterns, • to be cross-stitched, traced, em- • broldered by clever women accomplished la needlework. > Overblouses of crepe de chine, ba- • tlste. voile or pussy willow, ready ’ made. •« stamped about the neck and r sleeves with some needlework design t to be done in colors, after the Idea of ■ the peasant embroideries so much in . vogue. And byway of inspiration. ! -peasant blouses” ready to wear; t these being simple white blouses, i smocked in yoke form about the neck • and shaping cuffs at the wrist la . bright colored cuttons ut flow-