The Syracuse Journal, Volume 17, Number 19, Syracuse, Kosciusko County, 4 September 1924 — Page 3

NOVELTY RIBBONS IN FAVOR; ENSEMBLE FOR THE AUTUMN

WINSOME Httle novelty ribbons have fluttered their colorful charm into millinery fashionland. That many of our prettiest autumn chapeaux are to be made entirely of narrow fanciful ribbon sewed row on row is the message conveyed by advance models arriving from across seas. The effectiveness of the ribbon-made bat is demonstrated In the accompanying Illustration In two Instances. The

yv’Sifl JEI I a. ■ ire- Mb.? < * I RIBBON PRETTILY USED

shape tn the lente oval below is fashioned of shirred ombre ribbon, brown being the predominating color. The feather fancy dropping low to one aide repeats the brown, russet and cream tones of the ribbon. The little tum-off-the-fsce model with scrolls of ribbon projecting far out at each side, la also an exponent of the ribbon-built hat. It uses In composition a straw soutache which nerves to join the rows of ribbon. That la all there is to It—no other trimming. J It la Intriguing ribbon patterning which gives chic and charm to the little round hat with Its high-turned brim, shown at the top of this group. In a

■o^aswaw—iia— IW /jW FOR THE LONQ AUTUMN DAYS

series of curlicues and roee-liks mo-, tifs. tiny three-toned silken ribbon wends It* ornate path about the cuff of thia handmade felt model. There is a hint of the direqjolre Influence in the russet velvet model pictured to the center left. Brocaded metal ribbon, something new this seaeon. encircles the crown In a tier of three rows, sliding through round metal buckles at the front. Silver ribbon, so popular with black, alternates with bengaline silk folds tn the high-crowned velvet hat portrayed to the left above. j ■ There's a new bunt of eutbusfc-

CooJ in Appearance No lingerie is more cool in appearance than that pale green known aa “young leaf.” Thirtsr go nn tnt s of radium silk in this shade are trimmed simply and effectively with insets of fllot . lace In white. * Flay Important Rolo Feedhero play ae important a rote In the decoration of the assart Bnglisb wnman as they dM in that of the smart aavafls. There am feather home. IhMiNV' iNOBUArtBb

asm for the ensemble costume. Its triumphs bld fair to be repeated to even a greater degree during the coming autumn and winter seasons. Elaborate styling is marked in the development of new models, which establish family ties between wrap and frock. Wraps which claim kinship to the one-piece dress over which they are posed feature three distinct types

Made of selfsame material as the companion dress Is the three-quarter length or hem-depth cost, the long or short cape or the scarf which often takes on the Spanish shawl spirit A material which makes a particularly handsome showing In ensemble Interpretation is tapestry-striped kasha doth. It Is this fabric which is so charmingly utilized for the modal in the picture A convertible collar is one of the pleasing features of the frock. Tapestry effects are of very great fabric Interest for foil. This leads on to elaborate schemes, such as, for Instance, an Imported tapestry cloth showing all-over woolen embroidery

. delineating light figures silhouetted against a dark background. Bordered materials effectively yield to novelty treatment, in that the border embellishes the hem of the frock, repeating Its ornate decoration across the ends of a very wide scarf. Conspicuous among ensemble conceptions is a three-piece costume which relates a frock of red and blue plaid with a coat of navy suede doth. In this the self-fabric of the dress la repeated as the lining of- the wrap. A raccoon collar adds a note of antutna elegance to the coat JULIA ROTTOMLKT. (•. IM4. Wotwrs Newseaosr Us*—>

Something Naw in Lingerie Glove silk lingerie in pink, blue er white is particularly nice wheo trimmed with inset ovals of white silk. These ovals am Ailed In with floral designs dons In coioro In petite petal embroidery. Popular for Riding Gray riding sulto are neck and neck with tan In popularity this season. The bmeehra are a lighter shade of gray, or white. Feit sports hats are being oeisetad hi prefer sows to *hsrfl" bam

OUR MAGAZINE U e SECTION <VI Interesting Features for the Entire Family

E) ~ I 1 ff" Something to Think About " By F. A. WALKER

OUR UNWORTHY SELVES TO BE constantly discussing the deficiencies of others without considering our own, is a common human foiling. It requires no special perception to see the faults In those around us, but to discern our own, is quite a different matter. Indeed it is not strange that we balk at the effort It is a job that we do not like to contemplate, even when we are in a good humor. But if we would achieve, attain and be highly respected, the obvious thing to do Is to stand up and face the music. though the notes be disquieting. Whoever is not doing his utmost to overcome his own defects, is cheating himself. The first sane step we take toward self-improvement Is the one taken arm-in-arm with self-dissatisfaction. We tread then on ground In a new world, where we discover to our amazement sins within us equal In every respect to those we so loudly condemn In others. Humans who are living in one sphere cannot understand those in an- • other position. They have been trained j in a different camp. Yet each person has his or her own j problem to solve. Its correct solution s being dependent upon individual dis- j cernment and ability. If by being considerate of others ; | Through the Glad | X Eyes of a Woman X X By JANE DOE * X WHY SHE HAS NICE HAIR SHE always says a hair tn the head is worth two in the brush. • • • She dries with towels alway a Hot ones. Gas beaters and electric dryers are the worst enemies of wellkept hair. They cause dandruff, split hairs and Innumerable headaches. To her they represent an excuse for laziness. • • • She wears her hair loose, harydng iown her back whenever she gets the opportunity. She gives her tresses an airing at the open window every day and In the warmer weather always drys them In the sun. • • • She cultivates a simple, easy coiffure. • • • Also, she goes without a bat whenever she can. There Is no surer tonic for falling hair. • ■ • • She supposes you want her to rec>mmend you a tonic. Well, hers Is a Hairbrush and plenty of patience and •H bow-grease. t • » She has a nice, fairly firm, real bristle brush. She brushes her hair In long, even strokes night and morning without fall. She finds that a course of systematic brushing will restore any deranged locks to their normal condition in a surprisingly short

Hlotker’s CookTSook

As you grow roarty for it, ■omewker* >r othsr. you will Had what la needful for you la * book.—Georgs McDonald. A book’s a magic thing. That makes you sailor, chief or king. COOLING~DISHES rpHIS to the season of the year when A aspic and gelatin dishes appeal to the taste as they supply food easy of digestion. Aspic jelly to made from clarified meat broth solidified with gelatin. One two-ounce package of gelatin softened in one cupful of water is used for each five cupfuls of broth. Meat broths are flavored with vegetables freed from fat and clarified with crushed egg shells and white of egg. Aspic made of chicken or veal to a very delicate color. Consomme gives a darker o>lor as It to prepared from beef, veal and fowl with spices and herbs. Beef broth is darkest of all. The amount of gelatin used to sufficient to hold slices of tongue, or similar solid substances as well as whole eggs in an upright position after molding. It to also firm enough tor croutons, but a jelly that will not hold its shape, as far as taste to concerned. Is much more desirable. Aa flavors are lessened by chilling, all broths used for aspic should be strongly flavored with the particular vegetable er herb that is desired In the particular dtoh. The qualities of a good aspic are strength of flavor, transparency and delicacy of texture, that is, as soft as possible, though able to stand up. OtUcate Aspic Jelly. Clean a chicken about a year old, eat up ss for* frying, cover with cold

THE SYRACUSE JOUBKUi

1 we should pull the weeds from our own gardens, and patch up the opea fences, we might become more charitable. We would be so busy overcoming our own imperfections, so pleasantly and profitably occupied, there would be no time at our disposal to search for flaws in our,neighbors. The whole world would be brighter. The brotherhood of man would be knit closer together. Men and women everywhere would be better, more hopeful and happy. There would be less heartaches and fewer tears. Let us pack our hearts full of love and sympathy. Let us look first for defects In ourselves. Let us not be satisfied until we have found them and flung them away. Then we shall know how to live—how to bring heaven’s sunshine into the lives of our kin. I© by McClutw Newspaper Syndicate.*

A | SCHOOL DAIJS |A | SI Wife "" ***

time. It will also remove dandnifi and tone up the scalp more effective!} than any electrical appliances for sale can do. • • • She washes her brushes and comb every day. • • • She finds a safe rule Is to shampoo when really dirty as often as necessary. Certainly once a week tor very fair hair. -• • • She finds that while constant brushing keeps her hair in good order. If at any time she wants an extra polish without the aid of brilltantine (which she never uses) she rubs strands of her hair with her hand tied in a silk handkerchief. This gives a really beautiful gloss. (© by McClurw Newspaper Syndicate.)

water, heat quickly to the boiling point, then let simmer until tender. Strain off the broth through a double cloth. Season with salt and pepper and set aside to chili and use. Two stalks of celery and one onion may be added to the fowl while cooking. Aspic Jelly From Consomme. Take five cupfuls of cleared consomme. one to two ounces of gelatin, one-half to one cupful of cold water. The quantity of gelatin depends upon the solidity desired. Let the gelatin stand tn the cold water until completely absorbed, then pour over the consomme heated to the boiling point Molded Custard. Soften one-fourth of a package of gelatin in one-fourth of a cupful of cold milk. Make a custard with three egg yolks, one-third of a cupful of sugar, a pint of milk and one-half teaspoonful of salt. Add the softened gelatin: stir until dissolved and let cool: add a teaspoonful of vanilla and strain into a mold. . « Ut«. WaMAra^MraeapM^ Uslse.) ' O — UxA/ \wHAT DID MB Maude — Oh, ill there goes Kitty U.’ Higa Brown! Isn’t she n y'lovelyf I wish X IwV were half as good BSF J looking! . Frank — Oh. M but you are!

ahead;; ° o ‘I By DOUGLAS MALLOCH T SAT alone In all my gloom. Yet moonlight came and tilled th* room. The course of life seemed dark, uncer tain. And yet a star peeked through the curtain. Though night shut down about me. I Found moonlit world and starlit sky, A thousand things to journey by. I needed but to lift my head To find God’s constellations spread Across His azure acres, burning A changeless lamp at ev’ry turning. I needed but to look around And silver was the world I found Where moonlight magic touched th* ground. So often do we choose to dwell Within our souls as in a cell. When right around us moon is gleam Ing. When right above us stary are beaming. Whatever path we have to tread. If we will look, as I have said. I’m sure that there are lights ahead. <© by McClure Newspaper Syndicate.*

OU MAY MARRY ’ < man like this proposed < sms: Tall. groy. grl»-/< ,-enty I Lovesl youiuf J likes to bosk ’ejn. « ’em. spend a few J Never has been a) real < i yet: scathingly rritl- ’ [ ry one he sees. Taken < 1 shine to you. because J! like the wife of his • ■ j< J youth. Always busy, thinks he IJ i« > Is indispensable— fusses about ;; J ’ and Is content to death with < > >« Mr. seif. ;; I O IN FACT . > .‘ ’ Content has been bls hold up. J J jo Prescription to the Bride: <> ; > Make him think he Is your ’ j I< ► *fc age. Get lots of diversion. < • |] * Absorb thia: ‘ j !<• OLD AGE IS ONLY WHAT <• I J YOU MAKE OF IT. J [ < ► <© b» McClure N«w«panrr Sm<tleate.t 11 < .oeoeoeOQOeeXXeOOOdOOOeC O r.. I Young Lady ( Across the Way The young lady across the way says the thing to do is to catch the mu higher up, and she doesn’t consider the poor. Ignorant bootlegger half ao much to blame aa the bar asaodation. « MsCtars Nwr— Syrtlceu-i Q— Pale giaeler in the Swiss alps has a movement of from IS to 24 inches . ,v. . .

COATS AND CAPES FOR BREEZY DAYS

In this most temperamental season one needs to be more than ordinarily alert to its requirements, for its moods and tenses have been something with which to reckon judiciously. Forethought, discretion and some imagination, notes a fashion writer in the New York Times, have been required in selecting the wardrobe for this summer, in providing for all sorts of weather and in dressing suitably and comfortably for every occasion. The matter of gowns is comparatively simple now that more and more one type as to weight Is worn the year round. It la the wrap that signifies, and the choice of it demands attention and considerable outlay. There must be covering for days In the open; motor coats, sports coats for the games, the green and the pad dock; wraps for the beach and the promenade, and for evening dress, liesigners who ordinarily give the greater part of their time and attention to modeling wraps for the winter season are doubling their occupation this year, and the creating of many styles of coats, capes, scarf wraps for any and every kind of costume becomes an unremitting continuous performance. The results are attractive. First, the sports coats for summer wear. Following the winter and early spring coats of heavier weight, fabrics of lighter, looser weaves and brighter colors have been introduced in a number of variants in cut. The plaids that date back to last autumn, when they were presented with caution, grew slowly into favor and are now the last word in fashion for sports or general country wear. General Utility Sports Coat. English materials, translated Into French, as it were, are shown in the latest sports coat models, light, warm and swagger, suggesting cool evenings in the mountains and long drives on the open road. The new sports coat is a dependable friend for yachting, for days by the sea when the wind blows and for general utility. O’Kossen sports coats are built of gay plaids, of the quiet two-toned colors, In Scotch mixtures. Some of the models show delightfully artistic combinations. The tans, browns and grays, in which colors are staple, retain their popularity, but the latest coqfs illustrate the possibilities In contrasting vivid colors with the neutral shades. There are gold block plaids of brilliant scarlet with gray, vermilion with tan. green with beige and. conspicuously, black with white in innumerable styles of contact. Some of these are striking in the extreme, yet they have become firmly established as the mode. Most of the designers who go In for the tailleur type of things have turned out smart sports coats this season. The popular stuffs are rough and of a homespun, cheviot or camel’slyyr character, usually In diagonal twills, the soft yet wiry, uncrushable kind. English and American women of fashion contributed to the smartness of Ascot this year by wearing not only the most chic frocks from Paris, but also stunning coats and wraps, which were more ordinarily au fait. In addition to the sports coat, variously known as the driving, motor, polo, paddock coat, useful for protection. there were new and altogether smart models in a somewhat more formal wrap. One of these, new to Paris and the world at large, is the cape, which, added to a coat frock of the same marerial. makes an ensemble fashionable and practical. This Idea has taken so well that many models tn different stuffs and along different lines are seen in town or out of town equally, l

Scarflike Wool Garment

The least formal and most picturesque of all the new styles in wraps is a scarflike wool garment, in four lengths, or cleverly put together so as to wind around the figure and meet in a straight line, buttoned down the front as a coat. This is made In a Plaid material of gray, white and black, and has proved to be popular. The model, informal and luxurious and presenting a problem of ingenuity to the modiste, has been made quite the fad among the fashionable women whose daytime and evening social demands closely connect Evening coats, wraps and capes Intended to be worn with summer dress are intriguing this season. In this sort of thing the more established artixts in the Parisian ateliers delight, with pleasant results for the women of fashion on two continents. They are designed to provide a light covering against the evening chill, to protect an evening gown, possibly fragile, and ro complete a fashionable costume The most modish evening or dress wraps are made of crepe or soft silk, such as pussy willow,

' " ■■'■■"— ■ % May Harmonize Large Hats and Short Hair

The Paris modiste to making valiant efforts to counteract the effect of the bob which has been responsible for the unparalleled vogue of the small bat during the last two yearn Despite the enormous popularity of the cloche type in recent seasons it has never been a flattering style, says a fashion curre-. spondent in the New York HeraldTribune. It has been necessitated by the short-haired mode which ordinarily makes too great a contrast when worn in conjunction with the large bats. Its further and most discouraging disadvantage from the viewpoint of the milliner to the fact that it discounts the premium on artistic ingenuity. The manufacturer or form maker bad only to incorporate a half dozen different styles of cloche into his collection and be could have supplied the whole feminine world with hats during the last few seasona Clearly it to the instinct of self-pree-ervution which is motivating the drive of the French milliner toward larger hata. But it is equally patent that the

as weather, time and occasion require. The cape is reproduced in lighter fabrics, in lightweight wools, crepe, even in chiffon, as the dressier wrap and cover. Directoire Coat' Popular. The really- truly “swell” of the season is the directoire coat, which, responding to the ideal of the hour, is a eoat-wrap. This is a model in which some of the authoritative houses at Paris are specializing. Lanvin struck a top note with a coat made for a l l ’ ' ? ■ - ■ Sports Coat of English Mixture—Vermilion, Tan, Gray. fashionable patron of the races, for polo, tennis or any swagger sports occasion in black kasha doth, straight from shoulder and throat to hem. On the surface squares of white cloth are appliqued. each and all outlined with gilt thread, to look like a checkerboard, though with superlative styla and elegance. , Another, tout-a-folt empire, is created and presented by Drecoll—a coat of blue twill, uncurved tn line, but held about a low waistline with cord and tassel of black silk. Over the shoulders are three-tiered, short, fitted capes, blue, tan and gray—an ensemble made complete with a little directoire stiff hat of smooth beaver. This directoire suggestion has inspired some of the most picturesque outfits seen this year, particularly at the ultra-smart sports events at Paris and In England. A thoroughly conservative overgarment that Is never out of style, never gauche, is a sttaight-iined tailored coat seven eighths length. material medium or light In'weight, usually in black or midnight blue, lined with plain or fancy silk, and always—this season —with a Collar of some fur of light character, squirrel, summer ermine, white ermine, rabbit or any one of the many furs that are used tn summer wraps, a This coat answers every purpose when It is wbrn over a gown of straight silhouette, tunic, blouse or otherwise unruffled costume. It is easily slipped on_or-off- Is easily disposed of, I and one to present a conven--1 tional / appearance wherever one chances to be.

charmeuse, of chiffon voile or the other sheer stuffs now In vogu<£*s. It is intereMgg, perhaps profitable, to observe thatWs a result ot the fickleness of the season there are many sales, and one may find in some of the most prominent houses a large assortment of wraps for day and - evening at reduced prices. Thia means to the shopper of judgment an opportunity to lay In supplies for next summer. For Evening Wear The new evening slippers today are scarcely more than a sole and a series of strapa Os metal cloth or brocade, they are exquisitely dainty, but so cut out and cut up that one marvels at their staying on the foot at .alt For Summer Evenings A dress that Suggests summer evenings is of white crepe de chine with a very finely pleated skirt edged with a deep border of white marabou, clipped very dose.

more ample shapes are of themselves far more attractive t<f women in reneral. The problem is to harmonize large hats and short hair, and that to the effect contemplated by the medium and wide hats now being shown by the important Paris modistes. Matron’s Millinery Black la<x is playing an important part in matron's millinery. It is fashioned Into large bows wired across the crown tip from side to side with the knot caught flat on the crown tip and the bow ends held down to the brim edge. For the larger type hat the wide lace veil to draped to almost entirely- cover the brim and finishes In ends or a bow on the rides. To Wash Gilded Chiaa Do not use soda for Crashing chtha . with gilt on it U you do. don’t be surprised if the gilt gradually disappears. Use a good soap and rinse well. _ f