The Syracuse Journal, Volume 16, Number 38, Syracuse, Kosciusko County, 17 January 1924 — Page 6

Swagger Coat of Brushed Wool

Negligees Invite Relaxation

NOW that mid winter sports are tn full swing, fashion's pet theme Is the gay, handsome, original sweater. According to the stylist's version in regar4 to the sweater of the moment, ’'brushed wool” is the most popular slogan in knitted outerwear parlance. The majority demand is for siipon or swagger coat, knitted or “comfy” looking fur-like effects. Anyone looking for an eminently fashionable cold-weather* sweater will make nh mistake in selecting Just such a model t»s is pictured herewith, for It Is featured with very latest style details. If Is, first and foremost, of brushed wool, which classes It as a topnotch with horizontal broad black and nar-

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* Slipoa Sweater for Sport Wear.

row white stripes alternating on a tan ground. That these stripes are horizontal la one of Ita claims to style distinction, for stripe* around and around are characteristic of the very latest in knitted garments. Other outstanding notes which guarantee Its eligibility to the advance sweater class are the long, sniik' Ottlnc STPeves and the high standing collar attached at the hack. Os interest, also, Ms the knitted hat of camel's halr wool in tan with border of tan nnd green. It la quite <he ’eslmble thing these days that our

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Satia Negligoo With Narrow Frills. iw i iitera be topped with hat* and scarves which are hiso knitted. The wearing of the scarf 1* quite an art It is thrown about the throat in “accidentally on purpose* way*, which chai lenge admiration from those who appreciate the picturesque. Entrancing color effects are part of the Scheme in brushed wool model*. One of the moat interesting is brushed wool knitted in a vague plaid pattern. • . ..

♦ . A Silk Puree. A handsome under-the-arm bag of black moire makes a coveted gift for a fastidious woman. Three-fourths of a yard of 12-lnch ribbon Is required for the outside and mandarin red ribbon makes a pleasing lining. It to made iu a straight atrip and one end is turned up one-third the length to make the pocket. The top daps down and fasten* with naps. A short silk cord barely long enough to reach over from one side to the other .1* provided for the hand to slip under?

Many of the shaggy sweater types are either tanor gray, with hints of powder blue, royal, green or orange, patterned In stripes and checks. No combination outclasses black-and-white. There is a wide field to choose from In negligees, and even the most unpretentious of them undertakes to be Joyous, or, at least, attractive. Materials used forthem range all the way from gayly-flowered printed crepes to brocaded chiffon and chiffon velvets. Their lines are long, simple and graceful, with much emphasis placed onj Individuality in sleeves, which are generail/ set in and flaring Sometimes] they are of a different material front the body of the negligeeplaited georgette contributes much tc

their making and In the most elaborate garments long sleeves of georgette are extended to trail with the trailing skirt. | Satin, crepe de chine and taffeta make the most practical of the dressier models. They are shown In the pastel shades and In changeable weaves. Besides the lighter colors, deep orchid or fuchsia, American Beauty and black find hosts of admirers. On the light colors, Just now. marabou, swansdown and ostrich feather bandings are hiving a great vogue as trimming, dyed to

match the light colors. Narrow frills, plaited or gathered, are also In high favor an<| a handsome example of this finish Is shown on the satin negligee pictured. It Is finished with rows of gathered frills. Ribbon roses at the side fastening complete a model that Is pretty and practical. , Where, warmth must be considered corduroy Is unrivaled for practical negligees. Tills cotton fabric has a silky sheen and a suppleness that assure a graceful garment and may be lined with silky, mercerised fabrics that match It in color. The less o» pensive models are plalp. lit*. W«w» Newspaper Union.)

Pewter la Popular. pewter for fruit bowls, for candle* sticks,- for ink pots and for vases is coming Into Its own. The old pewter tankard*, flagons, mugs and jugs are likewise being brought out of their hiding places. For the Evening. A small envelope bag to carry in ths evening to particularly appropriate when it I* made of doth of gold. The bag Is square and can be easily tucked away. I

Rich Fabrics in Coats and Capes

Fashion has been an engaging subject ever since the beginning of history, and will continue to be until woman ceases to play her'traditional role of beauty. Pending the arrival of that sad day, observes a fashion writer in the New York Times, fashion remains of sufficient importance to enlist the talents and the enterprise of a vast and busy army of artists, artisans and merchants. It is entertaining to watch the evolution of styles and the extremes to which the changes swing. In one season the gown Is of conspicuous significance. and when the mode proves to be popular, ft lasts, with variations, through several seasons. Mifilnery and wraps are secondary- They are mere accompaniments of the dress. Another year, the fashion in gowns having become simplified, styles in wraps, furs or accessories are elaborated and featured by designers. From the rich fabrics and fine detail of a few vears ng« taste reverted Z-M i /■' MtjaKgi An Original Model in Ciel Blue Velvet Bordered All Around With Chinchilla and Lined With Orchid Satin, to plain materials and gentle modes. The whalebone and crinoline of modern Paris gave way to the classie Greek in lines, and somehow figured stuffs had no place in the catalogue of fashions. With costly gowns one must wear correspondingly splendid wraps and furs. A cape of satin or velvet, with a fur collar such as was quite the thing but a little while ago, is the utility wrap of the season, the sort that serves for morning or outing. For a gown of dazzling metal brocade or shimmering lace, with girdles and even shoes Jewel-studded, and accessories fit for the toilet of an empress, the wrap must be of brocade of equal richness, with lining and trimming to harmonize. For midwinter evening wear and for daytime formal occasions fur wraps are exceedingly popular, so they be very choice—sable or ermine or chinchilla, with a decided preference for chinchiWff? the price of which has soared to dizzy heights. But for the most elat>orate gowns one must have a covering made of one of the new materials, in light or bright colors. sn exclusive New York house has

Wraps Are Long and Clinging

precoll revels m toe metal brocades, .!...ks he employs in some superb wraps. One that Is long and clinging it Chinese in green, scarlet and gold, with a lining of scarlet. velvet. aid broad bands of black fox forming the collar and hem trimming. Drecoll's most emphatic novelty is made but three-quarter length, dolman in shape, lined and trimmed with silky black fox. Cberuit, too, is fond of the brilliant metallic brocades, and has established a charming conservative model of rose and sliver in large floral design, with a lining of white velvet and a collar of black fox that Is both deep end wide Negligees In Dainty Colors. In response to the present-day demand for clothes of delicate and luxurious character, a prominent Importer offqrs some negligees of satin and chiffon velvet In dainty colors. lined throughout w»h marabou. which forms a collar and trimming along the hem. Nothing roore exquisitely dainty can be fancied van one of these robes of pale rose satm, with its down rose

Short Fur jackets and Very Long Cloth Coats

Stunning little tight fur jackets, very much abbreviated In length, dividing favor with cloth coats, usually long uv in the fashion picture. The short fur jackets are often of some sports fur, such as civet cat or leopard, worn with plain bright-col-ored wool frocks. , Cloth coats, both for city and sports wear, are more attractive than they ever were. This is the age as beautiful fabrics, and the new fancy weave materials, both of domestic and imported origin, make coats that must be straight of line to reveal the full beauty of the material. From Rodier comes a brown figured material flecked with orange, and a lighter tan fabric that alternates fuzzy horizontal stripes with plain ones. Fur collars are nearly always of the long favorite, or any rich brown fur to match a brown that appears in the coat. A gorgeous sable evening cape on rather voluminous lines appears quite enough when one see* it wrapped S&

THE SYRACUSE JOURNAL

presented some melting creations emanating from the ateliers of Paris, In which artists have been inspired by the many alluring colors shown in the materials. Some of the combinations are a joy to see and to wear. In the styles, the wrap-around, wide sleeve full length dolman is the most usual. But lately new lines and features have been developed, and the garments depart from the simpler cur and become more complex. All of the latest Paris wraps are long, some just brushing the floor ns the wearer moves. A popular model that has decided cnchet is the straight coat, instep length, with wide sleeves slightly flaring and drooping over .the hand. From the high fur collar nt the back a cape falls to several Inches below the waistline. I'iye wrap Is built of c<>m-yellow and gold satin brocade. with a lining of velvet tn a deeper yellow, and the collar and deep cuffs are of brown fox fur. In another evening wrap the order of materials is reversed. Aquamarine blue velvet In a solid color Is lined with a gay satin brocade, blue and rose and silver. An enveloping collar is of hlack fox. and the sleeves, untrimmed. end .in a wide, flaring cuff that sweeps away from the arm Just below the elbow. This charming garment is fastened at one side with a superb ornament of aquamarines and diamonds, with strands of crystal and blue beads forming a fringe ten inches long. A lovely shade of mauve velvet Is modeled into an evening wrap having a deep plaited yoke, from the bottom of which fails a flounce, like a full cape. The collar is high, Haring at the back and with a slight roll in the front, and is trimmed with three rows of narrow ermine. This fur also outlines the lower edge of the yoke of plaits. The lining is of brocade satin in pule blue, violet ami silver, and the wrap, which is wide und full, is slipper length. Among the new models in evening wraps that come from Paris houses of authority, some are important for their artistic quality and because they establish modes that are entirely new. Fourreurs Max create a cupe as full, long and enveloping as a nun's. The original Is of ivory Salome velvet, gathered -slightly on the shallow yoke, from which it falls in sfull circular form to the floor. A collar formed like a monk's hood, reversed, stands high about the bead. it is faced and trimmed with a deep band of black fox, which extends down each side of the cape, opening in front and around the bottom. The lining is rose-colored. Sleeves With Wide Flare. A prominent New York couturier* has translated this idea Into-ciel blue velvet with bands of chinchilla, und lined the wrap with orchid satin —a charmingly esthetic combination. A long voluminous dolman of black velvet brocade from this same Purls designer has sleeves that flare to the width of almost a yard and a shawl collar of black fox. The lining throughout is of ermine. Chanel has produced Some very happy things in overgarments for evening, one of bis models being named bx- its importer a "perfect creation." This is of brocade, a weave of metal and siikteomoining gold, silver, flame and orange in a manner Indescribably lovely. The lining is of canary velvet and the collar and the deep cuffs are of natural lynx. Another of Chanel's ideas is worked out in black velvet; a deep cape slashed at the sides and made slipper length, a voluminous cowl-shaped collar, lining and band all about the edges emphasizing the popularity of black-and-white combinations.

inner side; or'one of yellow velvet, lined with marabou, the same shade. This house suggests also the petticoats, stockings and boudoir slippers in new and delightful styles that are to, be worn with these gowns. Speaking of accessories, one of the best-known designers in Paris declares that the modern woman is just beginning to learn their significance and how to use them, and that she is finding them a source of much diversion. Certainly some of the women who are fastidious about the detail of dress are acquiring a variety of things that add to the chic of their toilet, and are going to extremes of style and expense. Cut steel is back In favor after many years. Long ago It was much used in millinery. In dress trimming and for shoe ornaments, as It still is But rhe demand for chains ami other personal ornaments is so universal that Ingenuity has exhausted the list of semi-preclous stones anti suitable materials, and is making of fine cut steel very beautiful pendants, bandeaux. earrings, even bracelets.

perpendicular lines about the wearer. But when she throws it back from her shapely shoulders, there is a colorful surprise In store. Like the newer fabrics that* reflect the Chinese influence launched at the Grand Prix bail in Paris, the black crepe lining is embroidered all over In a Chinese garden scene. There are little figures and trees, and from the trees hang small colored lamps—actually sequlna—a bit larger than the ordinary. Tassels of gold, red, blue and green swing from the lamps each time the wearer moves. Care of Umbrella. Always dry umbrellas Qpen and never keep Them tightly rolled up, as this helps to cut the cover in the seams. If you want your umbrella to last double the usual time, make it a rule to pour a few drops of oil into the top notch about once a month. This prevents the ends of the ribs from rusting, and so prolongs the Ute of the umbrella. —. u. —

£2 THE IM OKITCnEN M HcABINETfc3 (©. 1984, Western Newspaper Union.) Who does not do some creative •work with brafn or hands, lives a mendicant, dies a pauper, and Iles buried In the potters’ Held, no matter what mausoleum marks his tomb.—Dallas Lore Sharp. SAVORY PORK DISHES This is the season of the year when ' "the little pig goes to market” and

pork finds a welcome place in the menus. A very tasty I dinner all in one dish may be pre- ! pared with a sparerib of pork and ft quart of |

sauerkraut, with enough potatoes to serve the family. Roll the rib around . the kraut, place the potatoes around the roast and bake in a moderate oven . for several hours. Serve on a platter tn the same arrangement. Crown Roast.—Have ready two rib roasts. Scrape the meat from the • bone between the ribs and as far back , as the lean meat and trim off the . backbone. Shape each piece in a semicircle having the ribs outside und skewer together to foftn a crown. Trim the ends of the bones, sprinkle with salt, pepper and dredge with flour. Place on a rack in a dripping pan with the bones down and bake for two hours. Have fat trimmings in tha pan and baste frequently with the fat. Cover the bones at the ends with a strip of fat to keep them from burning. Serve on a hot platter with the center filled with mashed potato and garnished with baked apple and pars- ' ley. Kernels of Pork.—Procure a homegrown sparerib that has been left with some meat on the ribs. Remove the meat in one-piece, cut into four fairly thick slices crosswise, season well and I saute In a hot frying pan until well I cooked. Arrange on a hot serving dish with nests of seasoned mashed pota- 1 toes filled with creamed peas or small creamed onions. Garnish with parsley. Pork Chops With Apples.—Take sufficient chops for the family, season well and dust with fine bread crumbs | and place In a dripping pan. Place ; on each one-half of a cored apple and hake in a moderate oven half an hour. When the crumbs are brown add a little water nnd continue cooking. Chop Suey.—Cut tender, fresh pork into thin slices an inch long. Cook these In a little fresh pork fat. Add a cupful or more of sliced celery and one minced onion, to the browned meat, cover with boiling water or stock and simmer until tender; a few mushroonis added to the fat In which the meat was cooked, with a tablespoonful of black molasses and a tablespoonful of soy sauce, with one tea- i spoonful of salt to a pound of meat# ! Thicken a little with cornstarch if desired. Serve with hot boiled rice. It has been said of the prophet Daniel that he went with the •greater willingness to the den of J lions because he knew that he would not be called upon for an after-dinner speech. — Burgess Johnson. HOT DESSERTS At this time of the year the appetite appreciates more highly-spiced,

richer and hot desserts. The fol- i lowing are a few ‘ that are not too | expensive: j Raisin Souffle. —Beat the yolk of an egg slight- ‘ ly, adding one- i

fourth ct u cupful of maple sirup or honey, add one tablespoonful of cornstarch. mix’well, then pour over one and one-half cupfuls of boiling hot milk. Cook until the mixture is smooth, add one-third of a cupful of raisins and fold in the stiffly-beaten white of the egg. Pour into a buttered pudding dish and set Into a pan of hot water; bake 15 minutes. Serve with a hard sauce. Steamed Coffee Pudding.—-Cream to- , gether three-fourths of a cupful of butter and one cupful of sugar, add one Well-beaten egg. Scald four tablespoonfuls of fresh ground coffee In a double boiler for ten minutes with one cupful of boiling hot milk. Strain through a double cheese cloth. Sift together two and one-fourth cupfuls of pastry flour, add four teasponfuls 1 of baking powder, one-balf teaspoonful of salt, add alternately with the coffee and milk mixture. Turn into a buttered mold and steam two hours for a large mold. Serve with the following sauce: Melt one-half cupful of butter, add one cupful of powdered sugar, nnd a well-beaten egg. Scald three tablespoonfuls of coffee In one cupful of milk, strain, add to the sugar and butter. Flavor with a little vanilla and serve with the hot pudding. Peach Polly.—Take a quart can of peaches, arrange in a greased bakingdish, sprinkle with one-fourth of a cupful of sugar, and dot with bits of butter, using a tablespoonful; add two cupfuls of bread crumbs and a tablespoonful of lemon Juice. Pour over the top the juice from the can and bake 30 minutes In a hot oven. Serve with creapr or some of the reserved fruit juice saved by substituting water in the pudding, if not enough. Some Comeback. Leonard Bacon, who was one of the best-known theologians in New England a half century ago, was attending a conference in one of the New England cities, and some assertions be made in his address were vehemently objected to by a member of the opposition. “Why.” he expostulated, “I never heard of such a thing in all my life!” “Mr. Moderator.” rejoined Bacon, calmly, “I cannot allow my opponent’s ignorance, however vast, to offset my knowledge, however ■mall"

Washington Sidelights

Hoover Wants Aviation and Radio Laws

WASHINGTON.— Legislation for the revision of the navigation laws, for control of traffic in the air. and for stabilization of radio service were among the recommendations made by Secretary Hoover in the annual report of the Commerce department. The rapid growth of aircraft and radio transmission alike, he said, had created a need for administration development, while the navigation laws, long under scrutiny, required adjustment to the increased commercial expansion. Within the department Itself Mr.Hoover recommended that congress follow the general reorganization plan prepared under the Harding administration. and make three administrative groupings to deal respectively with Industry, trade and navigation. In this connection, ttkewise, the report dealt with the foreign trade situation, and the studies made under Mr. Hoover’s direction for determining the financial situation of the United States as left by trade balances in “visible” and “invisible” exports and imports. It was noted that during the period under review—the fiscal year 1923-24 —commerce in general had revived, prices had firmed somewhat and the

Plans to Speed Up the Patent Office

Applications tor patents must lie for about ten months In the patent office before any action is taken upon them, even though since July 1 accumulation of 70.000 cases which the office has in arrears is being decreased at the rate of 1,000 cases a month—it would take five years to bring the patent office up, to date. A drive for relief is going to be made immediately in congress. Manufacturing industries are deluging members of congress with appeals for relief in the patent office, which Is “putting the brakes" on industry. This reaches into practically every home in the country, especially through the employment furnished by these factories. Brig. Gen. Herbert M. Lord, director of the budget bureau, is expected to include recommendations to remedy the situation in the budget which will be laid before congress. At least 100 additional examiners are needed. Remodeling the famous old building on the F and G and Seventh and Ninth streets to provide additional office space for

Rearrangement of Seats in the Senate

Throughout the whole period in which the senate has occupied its present quarters the desks have been, until now, equally divided between the two shies of the chamber. In recent years, because of the greater number of Republican members. It has been necessary to place incoming Republicans on the Democratic side. Pepper and Reed of Pennsylvania, Norbeck of South Dakota, Couzens of Michigan and Brookhart of lowa are thus placed. Now there are 43 desks on the Democratic side and 55 on the Republican side. The significance of this rearrangement is that not only the radical Republicans but the two Farmer-La-bor party senators, Shipstead and Magnus Johnson, who defeated Republican candidates in recent elections, and thus are not clasified as even nearRepublicans, are seated on tlie Republican side. In recent years and under processes of time and usage the senate chamber has been a bit shabby. It has always been a gloomy place, due to a raftered ceiling, glazed, but so cut up by heavy beams as to obstruct the light. The

Uncle Sam May Study Earthquakes

R ECOMMENDAT IONS for earthquake study in the Unit- . ed • States as a whole, similar to the work being done in California. are made by E. Lester Jones, director of the coast and geodetic survey. in his annual report. Disturbances which in some cases caused more or less local damage have occurred in the last two years in Canada, near Maine and New York, In Illinois, Kentucky, Indiana, Missouri. Montana. Utah, Arizona. Washington. California and beneath the sea off the Oregon coast. If the scientific investigation being made for the prepay tlon of an earthquake map of California could be widened, the report said, the country would benefit, the information thus gained being of practical value to architects and engineers. It would be possible to indicate in this way? Director Jones said, places where earthquakes might be expected and where “special precautions in order to avoid the danger of catastrophe” were necessary. Such knowledge. he added, would be of particular value in

Park System Planned for the Capital

A PROGRAM for comprehensive development of the national capital’s park and playground system and enlargement of the Botanic garden and Capitol grounds is embodied in seven bills introduced in thehouse by Representative John W. Langley, chairman of the committee on public buildings and grounds. Mr. Langley proposes that there be created'a national capital park commission, empowered to acquire park areas and playgrounds, either by purchase or condemnation. To carry out the purposes of the bill congress would be called upon to appropriate approximately 000,000 annually. ’“This bill not only will give us a constructive program for the future,” Mr. Langley said, “but It will save the government from being held up by unscrupulous speculators in land, placing unreasonable prices on specific areas as soon as they learn that these areas are being discussed In congress for proposed park purposes.” Two <rf the bills deal with enlarge-

nation as a whole had experienced prosperity. “Through the huge export balances of the last few years we have shifted from a debtor to a creditor nation,” said Mr. Hoover, “and the theory is now more or less generally accepted that our hitherto normal excess of exports over imports must ultimately shift to an excess of imports, as we have large balances to receive in pay-, ment of interest. “The situation in most branches of agriculture," he continued, “seems to be gradually adjusting itself. The partial recovery in foreign demand for cotton has permitted a higher price for the crop of 1923 than for that of 1922, in spite of an increase of 14 per cent in acreage and an appreciable increase in production. “The dairy interest in general is prospering, the demand for dairy products varying more than for most other agricultural products with general movements of prosperity and depression in industry. As for wheat, which is the more dependent on foreign markets than any other agricultural product, and which is subject to greatly increased competition from Canada and other foreign countries, ft seems necessary gradually to reduce acreage."

examiners, .tnd building of a steel stackroom for the millions of printed copies of patents, is recommended. At least half of the old land office building, which is across F street from the patent office, should be made available, those who have studied the problem say. Fifty more rooms are neces» sary and would be a real economy with the existing force. Every nook and corner in the patent office building is now used. It is not generally known that Uncle Sam runs the biggest 10-cent store in the world. About 200,000 printed copies of patents are sold all over this country each month at 10 cents apiece. In addition to the 200,000 copies of patents distributed every month, 2.000,000 copies are sent to libraries all over this country and to foreign countries in exchange. There are in the patent office, subject to sale. 50,000.000 copies of patents, which makes this the most valuable store In Washington. These have a cost value to the government of 53.000,000, and a sale value of $5,000,000.

desks, while of the best solid mahogany and tine examples of the cabinet maker's art, have been varnished again and again in the course of years. During the past summer the chamber has been “done over" radically and beautifully. The heavy rafters have been removed from the ceiling, practically doubling the lighting; a new carpet has been put down, the walls have been cleaned and the woodwork baa been repainted. The desks have been burned off with acids and a new dressing given to the wood. Unknown to the public the older of these desks have rich historical associations. There are no written records, but in secret, places beneath the covers records have been kept by veteran , employees who are jealous of these secrets. It was only a few years ago, and through the exercise of all his diplomatic powers, that Senator Lodge i contrived to have assigned to him • Charles Sumner’s old desk. Joe Robt inson of Arkansas, the Democratic I floor leader, now holds with pride the desk at which Duniel Webster sat ■ through his senatorial service.

• determining the sites for great dams or other reclamation projects. “The outstanding purpose,” he de- • clared, “is to make it imssible to reduce the loss of life and property in great earthquakes and eliminate It entirely in minor ones. The work in €’alifornla, standing alone, is handicapped • by the lack of investigation pf a similar character for the country as a whole." MY. Jones also reported that the wire-drag survey of the inside steamship routes of southeastern Alaska, begun in 1914, would be completed next summer. Deep water channels as far west as Cape Spencer already have been dragged, marking the completion of one of the most Important surveying projects of the territory. Practically all vessels bound to or from Alaska pass through these wa- ; ters. and many! in the past, have been I stranded, with considerable loss of life. Southern Alaska is a region of vol- ’ canlc disturbances. Islands frequently ■ rise up in a night from the sea; others i disappear beneath the sea.

ment of the capitol grounds and the acquirement of sites tn the District for future public building needs. Another measure sponsored by Mr. Langley would authorize an appropriation of $800,500 for construction of a new conservatory end other buildings in the Botanic garden. Still another bill introduced by Mr. Langley would extend Jurisdiction of the Rock Creek and Potomac parkway commission to include in the park system what is known as the Clifton tract on Massachusetts avenue extended,' containing about 38 acre*. The commission is directed to grant the u*e of the property in perpetuity to the Woman’s Universal alliance. The Woman’s Universal alliance last year assured the public building* and grounds committee that if congress provides the site it will establish an acropolis on the hillside property overlooking the city pr per. The purpose is to erect a m mortal to the motherhood of Amorita and gtitog memorial structures .