The Mail-Journal, Volume 26, Number 44, Milford, Kosciusko County, 16 December 1987 — Page 13

Christmas from around the world, spirited toasts to the season

Around the world, Christmas is celebrated joyously. Festivities are planned at \yhich family and friends gather together to share the holiday spirit — and, often, to raise a toast to each other, as they have for centuries past. The spirits of Christmas — those festive beverages which

With a bow to Dickensian nostalgia Americans relive Victorian yuletide

By DONALD SMITH National Geographic News Service Although Christmas comes but once a year to a yellow turn-of-the-century farmhouse on River Road, it stays for a long time. “Our house has been decorated since October 1,” says Sunny O’Neil, whose vocation is showing people how to deck out their own homes for that queen of winter, the Victorian Christmas. Business is good for Mrs. O’Neil and for other individuals and institutions concerned with the 19th century. Americans in the 1980 s can’t seem to get enough of the nostalgia and oldworld glitter they associate with Christmas traditions that evolved in the United Kingdom during Queen Victoria’s reign, from 1837 to 1901. “It’s all over the place,” says Judith Snyder of the Victorian Society in America, headquartered in Philadelphia. “This is a fairly new phenomenon. I would say it’s only become really -popular during the past 10 years. Nowit’s really hit.” The current issue of the society’s newsletter, “The Victorian,” lists 22 major Victorian Christmas events throughout the nation, from Cape May, N.J., to to San Marino, Calif. Activities include historichouse tours, art gallery and museum displays, dramatic readings and skits, gala costume balls, street festivals, feasts, concerts of period music, caroling and bell-ringing exhibitions. Those events are only the top of the yuletide iceberg. “Whole towns have started having Victorian Christmases,” Snyder says. “I’m still being inundated.” “It’s what we all think of when we think of Christmas,” says Connie Huff, former director of the Logan Circle House Tour, which this year celebrates its 10th anniversary in Washington, D.C. The houses of the Logan Circle Historic District were built in the 1880 s by wealthy Washingtonians. The tour, which includes a Victorian wassail and bazaar, offers a look at Christmas customs of the era’s upper class. “It’s the giant tree with lots of glop, the groaning board, the mantle all decorated, cranberries strung all over the place, and greens going up the staircase,” says Mrs. Hoff. “None of this fake-snow-in-the-window stuff. It’s almost overdone — total Victorian. I love it.” Victorians virtually invented Christmas as it is observed today in most of the United States. The centerpiece of the celebration, the Christmas tree, originally was a German custom. It became popular in England after Bavarian-born Prince Albert, the queen’s consort, set one up at Windsor Castle in 1844. Economics also played a role. The Victorian era coincided with the industrialization of England, which led to mass production of Christmas decorations and toys. “The tin-and-glass ornaments came about during the industrial age,” says Snyder. “So you had people mass-producing these, and selling the idea of Christmas.”

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are served traditionally during the holiday season — are many and varied. Some are mulled and spiced, to entrance the palate and warm cold bodies. Eggnog, which can be served either hot or chilled, is perhaps the most famous of all Christmas drinks. It is a descendant of the

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A VICTORIAN CHRISTMAS — Victorian Christmas expert Sunny O’Neil of Bethesda, Md., adjusts ornaments on the “living Christmas tree” costume she created for a mannequin from 19th century descriptions and engravings. Americans have enthusiastically adopted many yuletide customs that evolved in Victorian England. (Photo by Donald Smith-1987 National Geographic Society)

And then, of course, there was a British author named Dickens. “Obviously, we base many of our ideas of Christmas on Charles Dickens,” Snyder says. “The whole image of the Dickens Christmas — the idea of the Christmas pudding and the goose — is what people try to duplicate.” The heavy sentimentality in Dickens’s novels became his trademark. In pre-electronic England, the serialization of his stories was the equivalent of TV soap operas. Victorians were deeply moved by the plight of sick, dying, or otherwise unfortunate children. Hence was born Tiny Tim, one of the central characters in Dickens’s first and probably best Christmas tale, “A Christmas Carol,” in 1843. The popularity of “A Christmas Card” convinced Dickens that he had tapped into a literary gold mine. He wrote several similar Christmas stories, including “The Chimes” in 1844, “The Cricket on the Hearth” in 1845, and “The Battle of Life” in 1846. Little did Dickens know that he would be helping to create an industry 100 years later for people like Sunny O’Neil. Mrs. O’Neil, a housewife who started dabbling in Victorian flower arrangements, has become an authority for those seeking guidance on re-enacting holiday customs such as those portrayed by Dickens. In 1981, she wrote a book, “The Gift of Christmas Past: A Return to Victorian Themes.” Today, she con-

oid English Sack Posset. Fragrant with grated nutmeg, it is a sweetened mixture of sherry (once known as “sack”) with milk or cream, which has been further enriched by the addition of eggs. Wassail, another perennial British favorite, was served

ducts workshops at the Smithsonian Institution, appears on radio and television, and lectures all over the country. She also conducts tours of her own jewel box of a house, a dazzling museum of Victorian Christmas paraphernalia. Scattered about on tables and hanging from walls and ceilings are all the usual trappings of ribbonbedecked pine wreaths and roping. And there are other wonders, mostly handmade: splendid knee-high images of Father Christmas; wreaths made of corn husks dyed cornflower-blue and gold; spice “bouquets” made of black-pepper-and-anise-seed balls attached with gold wires, set beside tiny “flowers” fashioned from black-eyed peas and pumpkin seeds. The two main trees — several others are scattered through the house — fairly drip with baubles: gold starbursts; lace-covered sachets; candles; blown edges decorated with bits of colored velvet; tin fruit-basket ornaments cast in original 19th century molds; tiny red-ribbon “roses;” and yards of red beads and golden rope swags. “I think people are just trying to re-create something that’s not here any more,” says the Victorian Society’s Snyder. “People look at the period as a gracious and secure time. Actually, it was that way only for the wealthy; but that’s the advantage of having a viewpoint from a hundred years’ distance. You can pick what you want.”

warm to carolers (singing, it is to be presumed, “Here we come a wassailing”), who roamed from house to house (often quite long distances in the age of isolated manors and farmhouses), in anticipation of being greeted with brimming Wassail cups. The classic beverage for drinking toasts with, Wassail literally means “be well” or “be whole.” Often, toasted bread was put on top of the Wassail as a floating garnish (perhaps where the other meaning of the word “toast” originated?). With toast on top, the spirited beverage which resulted was nicknamed Lamb’s Wool, because of its appearance. Among the other ingredients of both traditional Wassail and Lamb’s Wool are ale, sugar, cinnamon and roasted apples, though additional spices were often used. Athole Brose hails from Scotland. A concoction of Scotch whiskey, honey, cream and oatmeal water, it is customarily served to toast in the New Year, known to the Scots as “Hogmanay.” Mexican Atole, a distant relative of Athole Brose, substitutes cornmeal for the oatmeal — and eschews alcohol in favor of the tantalizing flavors of cinnamon and chocolate, especially seductive in combination, Atole is served in Mexico throughout the holiday season, and is a standard accompaniment to King’s Cake, the centerpiece of the Epiphany table. Glogg,a Swedish treat, stands out for a special reason — in many recipes for it, the liqueur

Poinsettias have improved but they still need care

The poinsettia, the most popular holiday plant, is best known as the plant with the bright red flowers. But the true flower of the poinsettia is a small, yellow-greenish structure that is surrounded by brightly colored bracts or leaves. Today ’s poinsettia is much improved from the poinsettia of even five years ago because of plant breeders, says B. Rosie Lerner, Purdue University extension horticulturist. Although red is the most popular color, poinsettias are available i other colors. Pink, white and even speckled pink bracts are now available in cultivars such as Jingle Bells. New cultivars also tend to have a greater number of larger flowers on more compact plants. Poinsettia trees are popular, along with hanging baskets. Modern poinsettias last longer in the home, but the long-lasting nature of today’s poinsettia’s can only be enjoyed if they receive the proper care. The best way to extend the life of your poinsettia is to match, as closely as possible, the conditions where it was produced. Poinsettias are produced in greenhouses where cool temperatures can be maintained between 60 to 75 A good start Most of us could move mountains if only someone would clear the foothills out of the way. — Free-Press, Detroit

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which is added (traditionally though not exclusively aquavit) is often ignited before serving, usually as part of a New Year’s festivity, typical not only'of Sweden, but of Scandinavia as a whole, and Germany as well. Below are recipes for some of these time-tested Christmas beverages. Try one or more — and continue a long-standing tradition, while establishing a new tradition of your own! Here’s to you and yours! The following two recipes, for Holiday Eggnog and Wassail, are reproduced from John Clancy’s Christmas Cookbook (Hearst Books). From Mimi Sheraton’s classic compendium of Yuletide recipes, Visions of Sugarplums (Harper & Row) come the recipes for Athole Brose and Mexican Atole. And, finally, from Classic Scandinavian Cooking (Charles Scribner’s Sons) by Nika Hazelton, is culled the recipe for Swedish Glogg. HOLIDAY EGGNOG Yield: Approximately 2 quarts 8 egg whites ■4 cup sugar 8 egg yolks 3 cups heavy cream, chilled 4 tsp. superfine sugar 2 l / 2 cups blended whiskey 8 ounces Jamaica rum l'- 2 cups cold milk !' 2 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg 2 T. grated lemon rind 2 T. grated orange rind 1 In a large bowl, beat the egg whites with a wire whisk or electric beater until frothy. Gradually add the >/ 4 cup sugar, and continue beating until the egg whites form soft peaks when the beater

degrees F, with high relative humidity and high light intensity. These conditions can be difficult to match in the home. Natural light intensity tends to be quite low and of shorter duration in the winter. As we heat the air indoors, the air becomes drier so that relative humidity drops below the level of plant and people comfort. Make the most of the situation by placing your plant near a sunny window, but do not allow the foliage of flowers to contact cold window glass. Artificial light may be needed for extending growing periods. For increased humidity, use a humidifier, or

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is lifted. 2. In another large bowl, beat the egg yolks until they run off the beater in thick ribbons. With a large rubber spatula, fold the egg whites and yolks together thoroughly. 3. Beat the heavy cream with the 4 teaspoons superfine sugar until the cream holds soft peaks. 4. Gently pour the egg mixture and cream into a large punch bowl or storage container. Slowly add the and milk, beating gently all the while. 5. Grate about teaspoon of the nutmeg over the top of the eggnog, then sprinkle with the lemon and orange rind. Chill for at least 2 hours before serving WASSAIL Yield: Bto 10 servings '/z cup water 2 cups granulated sugar 1 tsp. grated nutmeg 1 tsp. ground ginger Pinch ground mace 4 whole cloves 2 allspice berries, crushed 1 stick cinnamon 6 eggs, separated 1 bottle sherry 1 cup brandy 1. In a medium-sized saucepan, combine the water and sugar and place over low heat until the sugar dissolves. Add the nutmeg, ginger, mace, cloves, all-spice, and cinnamon. Bring the mixture to a boil and let it boil for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and strain; discard the contents of the strainer. 2. Beat the egg whites until they hold soft peaks. Beat the egg yolks until they are a light lemonyellow in color. 3. In a large saucepan, heat the sherry and brandy until very hot

group plants together on a pebble tray. Both under- and over-watering will decrease the life of your plant. Plants which are allowed to wilt will brown along the edges of the leaves or may drop leaves off entirely. Watering too often will prevent proper aeration in the soil, and roots will begin to decay. Poinsettias should be watered when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. If your pot was wrapped in foil, be sure to poke a few holes in through the bottom to allow water to drain away.

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4. In a large bowl and using a rubber spatula, fold the egg whites and yolks together thoroughly. Then stir in the spiced syrup. 5. With a wire whisk, slowly beat in the hot sherry and brandy and serve immediately. ATHOLE BROSE OR HOGMANAY 1 cup honey (preferably heather honey from Scotland )• 1 >/2 to 2 cups heavy sweet cream 2 cups Scotch whiskey Heat honey, and when it thins slightly, stir in cream. Heat together but do not boil. Remove from heat and slowly stir in whiskey. This may be served hot or thoroughly chilled. Makes 4 to 6 servings. Variation: If you feel that you must try the oatmeal version, soak 1 cup oatmeal in 2 cups water overnight. Strain and mix liquid with other ingredients, to taste. MEXICAN ATOLE ORCHAMPURRADO */ 2 cup masa flour (Mexican corn flour used for tamale dough and available packaged in Mexican neighborhoods and some supermarkets) 2 cups water 1 stick cinnamon 4 cups milk 2 cups brown sugar, firmly packed 3 ounces unsweetened chocolate Stir masa into water, add cinnamon and cook over low heat.

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stirring frequently until thick. Add milk, sugar and chocolate and cook slowly, beating with a wire whisk until smooth and well blended. Bring to a boil once more and serve. To make a thicker, richer drink, beat 2 egg yolks with 3 tablespoons water and beat them into the hot chocolate just before serving. Heat, but do not boil after adding egg yolks. Makes about 6 servings. SWEDISH GLOGG About 2 quarts 3 whole cardamom pods 8 whole cloves 1 cinnamon stick One 4-inch strip of orange rind (yellow part only) I'/a cups water \ */4 cup blanched almonds ‘/2 cup golden raisins 1 bottle Bordeaux wine 1 bottle port wine '/z bottle Cognac Sugar to taste Tie cardamom pods, cloves, cinnamon, and orange rind in a cheesecloth bag. Place in the water and bring to a boil. Simmer, covered, 10 minutes. Add almonds and raisins and simmer 10 minutes longer. Add Bordeaux wine, port wine, and Cognac and bring to a quick boil. Remove from heat immediately. Cool and store, covered, overnight. At serving time, remove spice bag. Heat Glogg but do not boil. Add sugar to taste. Serve in heated mugs or glasses, with a few almonds and raisins in each glass.

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