The Mail-Journal, Volume 26, Number 20, Milford, Kosciusko County, 1 July 1987 — Page 10

z ■ • THE MAIL-JOURNAL — Wed., July 1,1987

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Calgary, Banff, Lake Louise, Jasper, Edmonton, Vancouver and Victoria come to mind

Random notes on an idyllic visit to the Canadian Rockies

| By DELLA AND ARCH BAUMGARTNER (Note: On previous trips, overseas and domestic, we have made a habit of keeping a notebook full of what we considered interesting little items from which we could later prepare an article for publication in The Mail-Journal. We ran such an article under the Cruzin Around 'Cuse banner last week, but felt the notes in our notebook would provide a little more deptfi for several people who had expressed an interest in our most recent trip into the Canadian Rockies. So, here are those notes.) * FRIDAY. JUNE 5 — Left home by car for O’Hare Field in Chicago, via the Indiana Toll Road. US9O and 294. Ran into absolutely unbelievable Friday traffic in Chicago. Flew out of O’Hare at 7:15 p.m., 30 minutes late. We were beginning to see why Secretary of Transportation Dole is coming down hard on the airlines for erratic flight schedules. Landed in Spokane. Wash., never left the plane, then on to Calgary, Alberta. Canada, where we picked up a new Ford Topaz from Hertz. • ' • SATI RD AY, JUNE fi — Late morning we drove into downtown ( algary and soon proceeded to the looming Calgary Tower, from whose observation tower can be seen the entire city, of a population of 625,000. What was thought to be an original "Cow Town" was a rail center tor western Canada, Calgary is now a thriving industrial and commercial center. Its high rise glass and granite buildings would do any city proud. We found a number of old buildings being torn down. Everyone is talking and getting ready for the February 1988 Winter Olympics that are coming to this city. We were impressed by the city’s travel bureau which has many very helpful offices throughout the city. We found one such office in the case of the Calgary Tower where a young man helped us secure a room for the night and loaded us down with maps and literature on things to do and see in Calgary and in Alberta. He directed us to the Sandman Inn. (Note: Monetary exchange in Canada is $1 US which is worth $1.31 Canadian. Looked like a good deal, but we soon found prices high By dividing room or meal check by 7.7 we quickly arrived at the cost in ' real money ”)

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. SUNKEN GARDENS AT VICTORIA. B.C. Stayed at the Sandman Inn on 7th Avenue, a one-way street. Tough learning their streets and avenues in Calgary, and the four quadrants of the city, but once in mind, it is duck soup getting around. Had dinner in the revolving Calgary Tower in the center of town, taking over an hour for full circle. Good service, good meal, and an excellent view of the city and its environs. It remains daylight in Alberta until about 11 p.m. Takeda little getting used to, this going to bed in the daylight. While Calgary is a thriving industrial city, tourism simply cannot be ignored as a leading "business.” It must bring in all kinds of money to this area. July and August are “high season,” but June is no slouch. The high season might bring in tourists like ourselves, but the winter months bring in winter sportsmen-; principally skiers. We were told the area was first open up in the early 1800 s by the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) when western Canada was found to be rich in minerals. The railroads brought in Chinese coolies as cheap labor, and so it is easy to see why many of progeny remain here today. But more than that, the Japanese are coming here in increasing numbers with their new-found industrial wealth. We were surprised to find a lot of Europeans, too, principally French and German. The wonders of this scenic province are enough to bring anyone, from anywhere to see its beauty. The Canadian government became concerned in the late 1800 s that the Canadian Pacific Railway had a monopolistic hammerlock on this part of their country, and so they laid the tracks for a competing railroad across Canada, to be known as the Canadian National Railway (CNR). As thewest opened up, there appears to be sufficient business for both railroads. The tracks for the two rail lines are built on opposite sides of the river or mountain range. SUNDAY, JUNE 7— We had heard for a good many years about the wonders and beauty of Banff and Lake Louise, Jasper and the capital provincial city of Edmonton. If we ever expected to see for ourselves, it was about time we packed our bags andheaded west. And so, on Sunday morning we headed out of Calgary on the Trans-Canadian Highway (No. 1) for Banff. We found Banff all we expected it to be. We were told Banff got its name from Senior CPR Director Lord Strathcona, that it reminded him of his birthplace, Branffshire, Scotland. The little town is small, colorful and somewhat unique as a stringtown of shops and restaurants. A sure stop is the fabulous Banff Springs Hotel with its opulent rooms, pools, tennis courts, stables — all that a vacationer could ask for. Had dinner, returned to motel to watch Canadian TV and learn about Prime Minister’s efforts in Venice to get the US and other countries to reduce their farm subsidies to give Canadian “prairie farmers” an even footing. .. . * MONDAY, JUNE 8 — A very short drive up Trans-Canadian Highway No. 1 from Banff to Lake Louise, both nestled in the Canadian Rockies amid breath-taking beauty. The mention of these two vacation spots is enough to bring affluent vacationers here from the world over. The small emerald, blue-green lake is only one and onehalf miles long, three-quarters of a mile wide and 273 feet deep — not much larger, if as large as Syracuse Lake — but from its shores can ><■ seen the dominating, snow-capped mountains on all sides' The >ke has no fish, no motor boats, but a handful of canoes. “Placid” is a word that fits this serene setting. Lake Louise was discovered by one Tom Wilson in 1882 who was a guide for the Canadian Pacific Railway, and was named for Princess Louise in 1884. The Princess ,was the wife of Marquis of Lorne, the Governor General of Canada and the daughter of Queen Victoria of England. The lake is at 5,680 feet above sea level. At the base of Lake Louise is the breath-taking Chateau Lake Louise, a hotel complex that compares favorably with the Banff Springs Hotel. The Chateau has 375 guest rooms, can accommodate 700 persons and has 480 staff members. Its kitchen is designed to serve 2,200 guest meals. The original Chateau was built in 1890, and additions and remodeling has been an ongoing process ever since. Under construction at the present time is an entire wing, complementary to its original structure.

Oirf friends at home have told us tqexpect some of the most melting at the rate of one meter per year captivating as the sun plays on the snow-capped mountains surrounding the small lake. Minerals in the lake’s bed are credited visitors approach the ice fields in large Snocoaches, especially mJ blue ’ green c ° lor One has tbe feel " built to negotiate the slick ice surfaces of the icefields. The coaches g oo ng at absolutely pure mountain water. are propelled by six-wheel drive traction, with enormous rubber wo , , ... , , . tires with small metal lugs for gripping in the slick ice. The sl2 ride and rJt Ce ° f kI’ 3 ?^ 8 llte , ra ‘ ur ® at „ tbe front is well worth the time and money. When we arrived at the top it was Thl mnl 100 com P arabl e to , those at tbe Banff Springs raining, making the ice all the more slick. We had an opportunity to I* J Tt’k a resort town of Lake Louise would hardly qualify as get out and try our luck at standing up. The guide brought aboard a vi g . t had a service station, several gift shops and a place to cup of the “absolutely pure” melted water from the glacier, and we a " d ( no '; elt,es “ was nearly noon by now, and we all had a sip. Only then did she tell us the native Indians drank the thought, shucks, lets drive up Highway 93 toward Jasper, and pure water as a form of mild laxative! perhaps stop along the way somewhere for the night. T . .. . ~ » „ , T be drive across Canada from Edmonton to the icefields was o and To S L ♦ Mor ]^ y . was drlvin ß through Banff National Park flat, almost prairie-like, but studded with small lakes. The "area is 3 f ?± Sp ?, r r Natl ° nal Park - arriving at Jasper, a normal population atuned to tourists, skiing in the winter and swimming and fishing in of 4,000, summertime nearly 15,000. the summer. In spite of the on-again, off-again rain during the dAy, «ed^ U .„3 ls ( gM( „th.benen lof „« OT L B As we traveled west toward the icefields, the large national point where the Alpine tundra begins aniTabove which sfnt no Parks with their snow-capped mountains cameinto view. While we trees grow H B po o traveled this route earlier in the week, it was good to see it again for . Yf all *ts beauty. We ended.our long day in Banff where we stayed the The valley with its flowing streams of melted snow is loaded night bef ° re B ° ing ° n t 0 Calgary on Saturda y into Calgary ,«,k shots of wild animals roaming unmolested along the road. At one K W rf S goOd t 0 get of f tb^F oad and J nto a c ° m ’ '.point we saw a large black bear grazing unconcerned sortable hotel. We turned in our car at the Hertz downtown office . 8 g concerned. s and were surpr i sed to ] earn we j, ad traveled just over 1,000 miles. Where the mad ic net dual i,„ o a noeeinn i„ We ma de plans at the railroad station for our Sunday afternoon and and bicyclists, weighed down with gear of all sorts, are in evidence it 7 ~ .u‘ everywhere along the highwav There’s certainlv a roving vaea V doesn get dark in Alberta until nearly 11 p.m., so there are bond spiril among the young folks SXjSIS “opponuS French, and speed limits are in kilometers. A kilometer is .6 o ß f a d ° llarS ’ pnceS com P are favorably to what they are mile, so when it states maximum speed is 110 kilometers per hour Amtnt.unusualleature.fdowntownC.lgarylslhem/Tlusls'limits as we took in the delightful scenery. Our Ford Tooaz seemed to run forever on a tank of eac hut we towers, shopping complexes, hotels and parkades. The system were soon to realize gas is expensive in Alberta. It is priced by the Vell^t^-k^^^h 0 ? V reet f ° r easysho PPl'’ g The . shops litre (usually 42.5 to 46 Canadian cents per litre), and there are 3.8 dlqianed fl F st C . aSS mer chandise. The system is litres per gallon. A little mathematical problem for you to figure designed to keep shoppers downtown, and does just that, but there. .. . . ’ While it was cold in Jasper and Edmonton, it was quite warm TUESDAY, JUNE 9 — As stated earlier, we stayed in Jasper here in Calgary where there is a lower altitude. It's easy to see why Monday and Tuesday nights, arriving there at mid-afternoon on Calgary is such a thriving industrial center, and why they were Monday. In a sense it’s a stringtown community, a railroad town able to impress the International Olympic Committee and perfounded on the fur-trading business and an assortment of minerals. suade them to hold their XV Winter Olympics here in February Oil was soon to bring new prosperity to this part of Alberta, but 1988. even this had its downside, and has left the economy languid. All the more reason for the economy to cherish the tourist trade. In late With little to do on Saturday night, we ate early, then went into afternoon motel rooms were suddenly filled. the Calgary Tower, where they had five movies going simultaneously, and bought tickets to the 7 o'clock showing of the The tour took us on a cable car ride atop a mountain, to a peak popular “Untouchables.” We sat in a near-full house, but when we of 7,500 feet, where we thin air. Aside from an ex- came out we found a very large line of customers, mostly young cellent observation tower where we could see tiny Jasper below and people, cued up for the 9 o'clock show. all the surrounding countryside, there was the usual shop where local memorabilia is on sale in abundance. It was sort of good to get JUNE 14 — We were getting ready for a long train back on terra firma. We were getting further north and it turned ride from Calgary to Victoria, British Columbia, on the Pacific out to be sweater country. We were glad to retire early on Tuesday coast. ' night, knowing we had a long ride on Highway 16 eastward to Edmonton, the capital city of Alberta. What one thinks’of as a quasi tragedy often turns out to be a blessing in disguise. This was the case with our train trip to VicWEDNESDAY, JUNE 10 — We left our hotel at Jasper about toria. We were scheduled to leave the Calgary station just after 2 8:30 a m. knowing we had <pout an hour’s drive in a northeasterly p.m., but actually left at 3:30 p.m. The reasons for the delay are direction out of the famous Jasper National Park, stopping over at best known by those rail powers that be. We at once, moved slowly Hinton, a city of 9,000 for breakfast in a Syracuse Case look-alike through a “train wash," similar to a car wash only bigger. The where townspeople were gathered to exchange the day’s happen- short 30-odd mile run to Banff proved uneventful. (Note: It was our ings. The only other town of any size on this four-hour trip from third time at Banff.) Jasper to Edmonton was the small city of Edson, which proved a pass-through point for us. MONDAY, JUNE 15 — At breakfast in the diner on Monday ° morning we met Paul and Helen Kinsey of Wauwatosa, Wise., and Edmonton, located in the center of Alberta, is the thriving enjoyed conversation with them on several occasions during the capital city, and boasts a population of 740,000 in what they call lingering trip. It also gave us time to think — June 15th, daughter Greater Edmonton. It is the rival city of Calgary, and each lays its Jane's 39th birthday! That tells one something, too. claim to fame. Edmonton had its real shot to fame and prosperity when the oil boom was at its height, but. a lot like Texas, this pro- The remainder of our train trip through the Rockies to Vanspenty proved elusive, and its economy, while not depressed, lost a couver was uneventful, if one wants to discount some of the most lot of its expected zip. unusual scenery in the world. It defies our humble ability to describe it adequately. Suffice it to say, however, that the train Arrived here early enough in the afternoon of the 10th that we wound its way around mountains, usually following slow-flowing could make the two-mile trip from the Mayfield Hotel where we rivers fed from the melting snow higlrtip in the Rockies. The tracks were staying to the world-famous West Edmonton Mall. We were crossed streams from time to time, and went through mountain there about two hours and could not scratch the surface of this tunnels that by today’s standards would cost a literal fortune fabulous shopping center. More on that later. We did find time at about 7 p.m. to call home to talk to Ron and Gloria and to learn that' We were told of one such tunnel now under progress that was all was fine on the home front, and to learn, also, of the earth slated to cost S6BO million! It’s only fair to recall a bit of western tremor that shook the area. We learned more about it on the early history and to remember that much of this work was done by morning news on Thursday. Chinese coolies who worked for a pittance. When we offered to a trainman that coolies worked for 10 cents per hour, he said, “Much THURSDAY, JUNE 11 — We spent today on a city tour of Ed- less than that; many of them worked for the daily ration of opium monton, which lasted until noon, then returned to the West Edmon- they could get. ” ton Mall. This is more than anyone could expect under one roof. The mall, the brainchild of an Iranian family who came to the area 20 It makes one wonder how many unmarked graves of these years ago and did all right in the oil business. It covers 80 acres, overworked and underpaid coolies line the routes of these western or 11 football fields and has 320 stores of every imaginable type. It railroads. D has 20 theaters and 100 restaurants, an ice skating rink, enormous f swimming pool with toboggans, a Fantasyland amusement park. At one rail station we purchased a small but absolutely well and a fabulous Fantasyland Hotel with 360 rooms. If you can’t find done little booklet, “Scenic Rail Guide to Western Canada,” which it at this mall, you probably don t need it. It even has an indoor gave us a detailed account of our journey, touching such things as automobile salesroom. wildlife to be found in these parts, its history, rail lore, mountains, prairies, waterfalls and glaciers. It was beautifully and helpfully The parking lot holds 3,000 cars and there are complaints that annotated. It showed us passing the North Thompson River, South this is insufficient for the crowds. The two levels are so expansive Thompson River, the Fraser River and many others. The that one never has the idea of being overcrowded. Kamloops Lake and Shuswap Lake are larger than anything in the tr . ... „ . . midwest outside the Great Lakes, and all the while our train wound How much aid all this cost, one has to think. We were told around their craggy banks and precipitous grades. At times the several figures, one being a billion dollars, another 1.3 billion. Who train passed through the clouds that ringed the mountain ranges, cares, really. a n( j we found ourselves above the timberline into the alpine tundra. Our morning tour of Edmonton proved worthwhile. Our guide kept the spirit alive as he drove around town pointing out buildings To look out the window from our observation deck and down to and cities, much of it strung along the Saskatchewan River. A high the river bed that seemed hundreds of feet below (at least') tested point was a visit to the Capitol Building, an ornate, well appointed one’s imagination for the endurance of the people who had brought structure where the legislature of the Province, of Alberta meets. A this lone rail project to fruition. We also had to wonder, if there was young guide filled us in on the unicameral form of government of a derailment on these single tracks high in the mountains (heaven the province. forbid!), how would the wrecking crews and their equipment be mt brought to the site? When we posed this question to the conductor, FRIDAY, JUNE 12 — This was the day we planned to drive he said, “We pray a lot! ” No doubt. No doubt. from Edmonton back to Calgary, on Highway 2, but when we arrived at Red Deer, about halfway between the two cities, we decided to We were destined to stay here for something over eight hours head west to visit the Columbia Icefields, which we missed when we It was announced that there was a train derailment of a freight went north on Highway 93 earlier in the week. train up the line, and it would be necessary to bring wrecking crews L . out of Calgary to right the freight cars and repair the tracks. For us Regular tours began in, 1955, to open this unusual natural this was no big deal, for what was slated to be an overnight trip phenomenon to the public. Located between the Banff and Jasper through the Canadian Rockies on what appeared to be a most National Parks, the Icefields are one of the largest accumulations treacherous route, we would be making in broad daylight What a of ice and snow south of the Arctic Circle, covering nearly 320 shame it would have been to miss this awe-inspiring runt square kilometers. They reach 700 to 900 meters in depth with a third of the area more than 2,600 meters above sea level. The ongo- At 1:30 am. Monday the tracks were apparently repaired for ing accumulation of snow continuously feeds eight major glaciers we felt the train nudge forward, slowly but reassuring We arrived including the Athabasca, Dome and Stutfield Glaciers, all visible at Vancouver at 10:30 p.m. on Monday. We were tired but found litfrom the Icefield Parkway. tie to grumble about considering the courtesies extended to our .. , J group. The train was not crowded and accommodations were good. The Icefields are a true continental divide” for their The railroad put us up at the Sheraton-Landmark Hotel on Robson meltwater feeds the streams and rivers that pour into three dis- Street, right downtown. “Everyone” goes to Eaton’s Department ferent oceans — north to the Arctic, east to the Atlantic-and south Store in the center of Vancouver, so we did, too and found it busy and west to the Pacific Oceans. The glacier is a moving platform of well stocked, a real asset to the central city. ice, moving 15 meters forward per year. Our guide told us it represents a river of ice, moving the fastest in the middle, and TUESDAY. JUNE 16 - Later in the afternoon we walked an

OB fifw W i ** * / « '-" ■ T * r y ’ '» eL AA> ;^Z:. n^ ;; ’v/-/' ; ’ Ujß- . »j -JV - ' »:/ -Vr ■ O w& / >fl < COLORFUL TRAIN RIDE FROM CALGARY, ALBERTA. TO VANCOUVER B.C. undetermined distance to the Sears Building (not to be confused with the American Sears stores) where they had a round observation deck, enclosed, but providing an excellent view of Vancouver. Its breath-taking view of the city was supplemented by a 15-minute color movie that extolled the virtues of Vancouver, in the best Chamber of Commerce manner. Back at our hotel at 5:30 p.m. and we knew we had had it. We had been walking the city’s streets since about 10 a.m. We were pleased to learn our own hotel, the Sheraton-Landmark. had a revolving dining room on its 42nd floor, and we had an excellent dinner there, taking full advantage of the hour-plus circular ride to see every side of this city. Vancouver is a spread out,city, with a touch of Rio. as its commerce and residential areas surround the several bays of the city. Since it gets dark here about 10:30 p.m., our dinner ride was mostly in daylight, but one can imagine the fetching beauty of the city as dusk approaches. We weren’t ready for the old English charm we found in Vancouver. It is much more English in so many ways than the other cities we had visited in this Canadian area. English Royalty has made it a point to visit Vancouver periodically, and while Canada is independent in every way, it still acknowledges Queen Elizabeth 11, going so far as to use her face prominently on its S2O bank note. Two nights in Vancouver is hardly enough to learn the names of its main streets let alone of its history or its people. But dur learn-as-you-go itinerary called for us to visit Vancouver Island, and this is where we were headed for tomorrow, the 17th. WEDNESDAY, JUNE 17 — If you think Vancouver has old English charm, you ain't seen nothing yet! We were actually surprised to see such a pronounced British influence in Victoria, ranging everywhere from the heavy British brogue of bus and taxi drivers to high tea as it is served afternoons at the Empress Hotel where we are staying today, Thursday and Friday. The only way to get from Vancouver on the Canadian mainland to Vancouver Island and the city of Victoria is by ferry, so it stands to reason this is how we made the trip. It took an hour and twenty minutes on a giant ferry that has a capacity of nearly 400 automobiles. The brief ride was fun, with the ferry having all the accommodations one could expect, including a large cafeteria. It might seem strange that Victoria, named for the longest reigning British Monarch, Queen Victoria, is the capital of British Columbia, but it is. It's a beautiful city, flooded with tourists even in June, which is considered early for the summer tourist season. It has an abundance of good restaurants, and its main streets are well appointed with ornate, five-globe light standards. Beautifully flowered hanging baskets are on most every standard. A special with special equipment makes the rounds in the early morning hours to water and fertilize the hanging baskets. The streets are clean and the clerks courteous to a fault. The Empress Hotel where we are staying faces the bay and is just across the end of James Bay from the government building. The hotel was built at the turn of the century, has characteristic heavy, dark woodwork, high ceilings and wide hallways. Its foyer and hallways are fined with well stocked shops. Much of the main foyer is given over to a tea room for those who go in for such things — serving high tea 2:30 to 5:00. In front of the hotel are double-decker British-type tour buses that offer city tours and a special tour to the world-famous Butchart Gardens, located just 13 miles outside the city. (More on the gardens later.) * Experience has taught us that city tours are invaluable as an introduction to a city. At Victoria we took such a tour to the important sections of the city, including the uplands of private homes, all beautifully shrubbed and manicured. THURSDAY, JUNE IS — On Thursday afternoon we did our own walking tour to the nearby British Columbia Provincial Museum, reputed to be one of the best of its kind in the world. The beautiful big building of three floors was loaded with historical artifacts of the natural history of British Columbia, and of the human history of this most westerly province. One goes from ice age mammoths, through a coastal forest, to a turn-of-the-century town, an exploration of the Barkerville gold fields, and on board Captain Vancouver’s ship, H.M.S. Discovery. One gets to explore the early Indian culture and discover the meaning of their totem poles. We visited the Parliament Buildings the same afternoon, and were pleased to find the House in session debating the appointment of a housing administrator. We were told Victoria has no slums and very littje if any unemployment, but this heated debate led us to believe otherwise. » (Continued on page H >