The Mail-Journal, Volume 17, Number 16, Milford, Kosciusko County, 7 May 1980 — Page 26

Do-it-yourself oil changes on increase across country

Do-it-yourself oil changes are on the increase throughout the country. A recent survey finds that 43.6 percent of all men and women who bought motor oil in 1975 changed oil themselves. This figure increased to 46.4 percent last year. □ One of the principal reasons yor this increase in DIY oil changing activity is increasing

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oil and service costs. But certainly another has to be the fact that so many people find what they formerly thought to be a tiresome chore to be a comparatively simple task, according to the Pennzoil Company. Assemble the few tools you'll need: An adjustable open-end or box wrench to remove the crankcase drain plug, a filter wrench, and receptacles to re-

ceive and dispose of the used oil. Check your owner's manual and have on hand the correct number of quarts of motor oil required for your particular car, and a new oil filter. Car wheels can remain on the floor, or use a pair of frontwheel ramps to raise the front end of your car. NEVER get under your car when it is secured only by jacks! Be sure to set the parking brake, place the automatic transmission in PARK (or the manual transmission in gear), and place chocks behind the rear Then, follow these steps: 1. Engine should be warm before oil drain. Place a waste pan under the crankcase drain plug and loosen plug counterclockwise with an adjustable open-end, socket or box wrench and remove plug. If the drain plug is countersunk, get a special drain-plug wrench. Trying to loosen the plug with a conventional wrench may ruin the plug or damage the oil pan. 2. Wait for crankcase to empty — Usually about three minutes. But let it drain longer, if possible. The more dirty oil you allow to drain, the less dirty oil remains in the engine. Be careful —oil will be hot! 3. Clean drain plug and, with plug gasket in place, screw plug clockwise into oil pan by hand. If you feel resistance, check that plug is not in crosswise. This will damage threads. Tighten firmly with wrench, but don't overtighten as you may destroy oil pan. 4. Changing filter. Place a waste pan under the oil filter and use your oil filter wrench at the base of the filter to turn it counter-clockwise. If the filter is frozen in place, hammer a chisel through the filter canister and smack the chisel handle with a mallet. This will loosen the filter, which can then be removed and discarded. Remove old gasket with filter. 5. Important—clean filter seating surface. Use putty -knife to scrape off any remaining gasket material which may be stuck to engine surface. Lub-

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Wed., May 7,I9BO—THE MAIL-JOURNAL CAR CARE

ricate new filter gasket with used oil. Spin new filter clockwise onto engine. When filter becomes difficult to turn by hand, give it one more halfturn by hand ONLY. 6. Fill crankcase through the oil fill opening at top of engine with the required number of uuarts. Check oil level with 7. Start engine and run it at fast-idle for a minute or two. Do not race engine. Turn off ignition and check under car for oil leaks. If there's a leak, tighten drain plug or filter a little more. Check oil level again with dipstick. When to change oil Recommended oil change intervals will vary with the type of car use. For primary recom-

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mendations, check your owner's manual. Usually, mileage-time intervals in owner's or service manuals are qualified as being for “normal” use or light duty operation (usually from 6,000 to 10,000 miles, or one year). Actually, almost all cars in daily use in metropolitan areas rarely, if ever, encounter socalled “normal service.” Extreme cold, heat, high speeds, stop-and-go driving, excessive idling at traffic lights or congested traffic, dirt, dust, trailer-towing, all add up to “extreme” or heavy duty driving conditions. Follow your owner’s manual recommendations and change your oil more frequently under these extreme driving conditions.