The Mail-Journal, Volume 7, Number 17, Milford, Kosciusko County, 27 May 1970 — Page 12

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THE MAIL-JOURNAL —Wed., May 27, 1970

Fishing Tips from Tom McNally

Outdoor Editor. Chicago Tribune: Angling Consultant, Johnson Reels

Most fishermen when walking from cars or from one spot to another carry their rods tip-first. If they stumble, the rod tip often digs into the ground and . . . “snaaapppp!" Also a rod carried tip-first tends to catch in limbs and brush, or the line or attached lure will snag. Best way to carry any rod is butt-first. If you trip and fall forward the rod is safely behind you and CANNOT be broken. Moreover, neither the rod, line or lure will foul on leaves, limbs, etc. * * • This is the time of year when black bass begin schooling and spend most of their time .in deep-water “sanctuaries.” Ordinarily these schools “break up” or disperse to the shallows only to feed, and these inshore migrations may occur at any time, not just mornings and evenings. It’s smart these days to start out by fishing the shallow's, but if you don’t score move to the deep w’ater. Try deep-down along the edges of drop-offs beyond points and peninsulas that continue out from shore, and around reefs and bars 30-40 feet down. • • • How many fishermen know of the “strip-cast” method of fishing with a fly rod 0 It s a super-system for fishing delicately with bait, tiny spoons or streamer flies. Any fly rod may be used The line is ordinary nylon monofilament. 15. 18, or 20 pound test — but the fly reel MUST be one with a tightfitting spool If the fly reel s, spool is loose-fitting * the monofilament can catch between the spool and the reel side-plates, either jamming the spool or cutting the line. The “stripTcasting" outfit is rigged like any fly tackle except mono instead of regular fly line is used. String line through the guides, attach your bait hook, spoon or streamer to the end, then pinch onto the line three feet up from the hook or lure 5 or 6 lead splitshot sinkers. To, cast all you do is strip several yards of

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line from the reel and let it fall at your feet in loose coils. Now, with the split-shot sinkers hanging down from the rod tip about a foot (and the bait or lure dangling beyond) take the rod vertically back to about the 2 :00 o’clock position, while lightly holding the nylon line in your left hand as you would fly line. Make a quick, flip-like forward cast — shooting for 11:00 o’clock — and, release the line from your left hand The split-shot sinkers will take off like bullets and pull all that loose line along behind. You’ll be amazed at the ease with which you’ll make 90-100 foot casts. Because of the fine nylon line and the split-shot, your bait fly, or lure will sink quickly. In an instant you can be down 25-35 feet, where the crappies, walleyes, white bass or large-mouths are. If fishing a worm or minnow you’ll want to merely inch-in the line with your left hand, dropping it in loose coils at your feet; if fishing a small spoon, streamer fly or other light lure you’ll probably strip-in line more quickly to give the artificial proper action When a fish is hooked it is “played” also by stripping line, and. perhaps best of all, you've got the added fun of fighting your fish on a fly rod • • • Some fisherman nay tadpoles are poor bass bait. Don’t you believe it! A friend of mine has seven

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largemouths, 5-6 inches long, in a large home aquarium. Drop a “taddy” in there and even though the bass are well fed (they get live shiner minnows daily) it’s like . . • POWWW!/! ... as the little bass strike with blinding speed and the tadpole simply Those baby bass are capable of eating a tadpole fully half their size.

Here’s Help in . . . CHOOSING OUTBOARD

Selecting an outboard motor to go with that new boat you just bought isn’t as easy as many believe. Just about everyone has advice for you, from your next-door neighbor to the local marina operator. Here are a few’ generally accepted tips on choosing that new engine. • Don't pick «n outboard too large or 100 <«mall for the boat. Most boats on the market today exhibit a “certification ” plate, with the maximum engine horsepower prominently displayed. Never exceed, or go 100 far below, that recommendation. • Consider how the motor will be u«ed. There’s no need for a powerful V-115 outboard if you're just going Io use it for slow fishing or family cruising, for instance. • Os course, the initial cost and operating expenses of the engine must not be ignored. Examine the warranty. A two-year warranty, backed by a reputable dealer and a manufacturer with a reputation for dependability, should be just as much a factor in the decision as the retail price of the motor itself. With today’s wide selection of outboard power on the market, from a mini-motor I’2 to giant V-4 prop-spin-ners turning out 115-horse-power, there’s sure to be an outboard that’s just perfect for your boat. . Don’t be afraid to ask for help from a reputable outboard dealer. It’s his business, and he stands ready to help you

IN PREPARING YOUR OUTBOARD MOTOR FOR THE SEASON you will nood to 'loan th. fu.l filter (loft) and chock propollor for damage that will cause poor engine performance and possible motor damage (middle). Spark plugs should be cleaned and re-gapped (right). Any plugs that are badly worn or fouled should be replaced.

Check of Equipment Assures Summer of Fun

With the arrival of spring’s warmer days, outboard enthusiasts’ thoughts turn to the coming summer afloat. To assure a carefree summer of fun. equipment such as boat, motor and trailer must be in top performance condition.

Motor An outboard motor is a finely tuned, precision instrument. No matter w’hat condition it was in when put up for the winter, its operating efficiency will be affected by a few months in storage. But it doesn’t require a great deal 'of mechanical skill to tune-up your outboard motor. The first step in preparing a motor for the season is to remove the spark plugs and leave them out until you have finished your motor work, for safety’s sake. If the plugs are at&ll questionable. the simplest and safest thing is replacement. If they are almost new. clean them and reset the gap. Be sure to inspect the spark plug connectors and rubber insulators. Hard starting, rough idling and excessive fuel consumption can be caused by defective plugs, connectors or insulators. Other parts of the ignition system including breaker points, condenser, coil and wiring can be tested with a spark checker available at most marine stores. Cracked or frayed wires can create a potentially dangerous situation. Use electricians tape for temporary repairs, but plan to replace the damaged wires. The next thing to check is the fuel system. Remove and clean the fuel filter The filter and bowl should be washed with neutral spirits. Filters clogged with varnish or gum deposits should be replaced. If you left fuel in the tank over the winter months, throw’ it out. Using it can cause hard starting and fuel system fouling. If the tank was left partially filled during the off season, there is a possibility that gum deposits have formed. Such deposits can usually be removed by scrubbing the inside of the tank with acetone or lacquer thinner. If you neglected to change the lubricant in the lower unit last fall, do it now’. If w’ater or metal chips are detected, have a qualified marine dealer check the unit for cracks. When refilling the low’er unit, use only the type of lubricant recommended by the manufacturer. A damaged propeller can cause performance problems. Your marine dealer can correct minor nicks by grinding the surface smooth. He can also check the pitch of the blades. If he recommends a new prop, keep the' old aboard as a spare. Your owner’s manual is a handy guide to lubrication of fittings and connectors.

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Remaining metal surfaces should be covered with a light coat of oil. The final step is a visual check of your work. Make sure all screws are tightened down and nuts secured. Boat Your boat and accessories should also be checked out each spring. Start by tilting the boat up on its trailer. Remove the drain plug and give the hull a thorough washing inside and out with warm w’ater and mild detergent. Use a putty knife to remove growths from the

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bottom of the boat. Check the steering system of the boat for loose cables and pulleys. To insure complete control, cables should be tight, .untwisted and free of excessive wear. Make sure the running lights and other electrical accessories are in proper working order, and that the wiring is in good condition. If your boat is equipped with a battery, check for cracks and corrosion on the battery and cables. Start the season with a full battery charge. Hardware should be checked for corrosion and for pitting. Polish or replace

fittings. Accessories such as life preservers, seat cushions, anchor and line should be inspected to make sure they are still serviceable and in good condition. Trailer If you own a trailer, inspect its tires for wear. See

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that they are properly inflated. Under-inflated tires will run hot and could cause problems. Pull the wheels and check the bearings. The wheels are immersed in water many times when you launch your boat. Water can pass the seals and rust the bearings. Bearings should be inspected and packed with grease at least once a season.

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