Semi-weekly Express, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 5 May 1896 — Page 5

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SPRING FADS COSTLY

ECONOMICAL IDEAS MUST BE BANISHED IN FOLLOWING TUB MODES.

!ELEGANT FOREIGN FANCIES.

|1A Clever Womna Can Simplify the Frencii Designs and Be In Fashion at Small Expense.—TIi« K«wot AIa lerlals.

YORK. May 1.—The newest de­

signs in warm weather styles present a series of the moat fascinating combinations of elegance, striking contrasts of color, simplicity, with dainty but showy effects, elaboration, and expense, which is the tnost Important element, since it so promptly decides the question of posees-

GRACEFUL AND COMFORTABLE.

sion, and is sure to be beyond your limit. But. fortunately, imported gowns are not indispensable additions to a cummer outfit, and quite as pretty dresses are the simplified copies of the French model and those which originate from some suggestion which it offers, for the new gown need not be such an extravagance, after all but the train of= necessary purchases which it sets in motion is very much like the old story of the new andirons which upset the economy of an entire household. One new article of dress suggests the need of another, and so it goes on to the limit of expenditure.

It is the tailor coat and skirt which takes the lead among the plainer gowns for traveling and morning wear, and if you would be in the latest fashion you must discard the flutes which have been worn so long at the back of the jacket, and resort to the new double box plaits pressed down flat. They are very full, however, so the lining of silk, which is always In some pretty contrast, shows plainly in the folds. Very pretty gowns, too, for street woar are these with akirts of some inexpensive wool material and

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waists of Oriental patterned •"-•cen or silk, made In the simple full blouge fashIon, with a four-inch gathered frill around the tips and a belt and collar of plain satin ribbon.

Mohair serges, tweed silk and wool goods, and mciro poplin are the materials most employed for these skirts, and all the new varieties of canvas and grenadine are the popular stuffs for more dressy gowns, with the exception of flowered silks. The fine qualities of canvas, wbich are much like grenadine, come in all the pretty shades of gray and tan: and made over colored changeable silks they are the most tempting gowns of all. Pale gray, with a blue lining and an odd collar of dull blue silk, em broidered in "dark blue, black and silver, with frills of gray chiffon around the edge, is very effective.

Fancy capes are sometimes made to match these frowns, and they are short and very full, with ruffles of chiffon around the edge. One pretty novelty of this sort has an iiher cape of taffeta silk like the lining, and the chiffon ruffles are sewn on the edges of this, showing a little below the outside cape. Embroidered ecru batiste ^r(d lace are both used fn this way, but the trimming must match that on the gown.

Blue canvas, lined with shot orange silk and trimmed on "the waist with stripes of copper, gold and silver embroidery, is very good style, »and a dark blue alpaca gown haB a plain waist with a blouBe front opening wide over another blouse of changeable green and blue silk, embroidered on either edge with green and gold braid.

This, in turn, is opened down the front to show a narrow vest of cream lace over white satin, and the collar of silk has a frill of lace falling over it, with a cravat bow of lace in front. A gray mohair dress has a bodice of^embroidered white batiste, with a plait of mohair edged with white braid down the front, and with this* instead of a cape, is a short, sleeveless jacket, hanging in two box plaits, belted across the back with a narrow white leather band, which passes through the side seam to fasten across the ^|nlst in front.

Narrow bias bands of black satin are used to trim blue alpaca gowns, and are set on in rows round the skirt. One model has two wide box plaits in the front of the wiast, tapering to a belt of black satin, and trimmed crosswise with the satin bands, upon wbich are tiny steel buttons. Between the plaits is a vest of white tucked batiste trimmed with lace, and the drooping sleeves have large loops of black satin ribbon falling from the shoulders. A batiste collar and cravat complete the costume. Black canvas made over green silk, and finished with a tartan plaid ribbon belt and collar, and some yellow lace on the waist in front. Is a very desirable combination.

Plaid ribbons are quite the thing with plain materials, but plaid silk waists made exactly like the cotton shirt waists, with a yoke in the back and a full front, are the latest fancy in this particular and popular line of drees.

Checked and finely striped taffeta silks are used for these waists, and the special novelty is the stiff white linen collar and cuffs worn with them. These are adjustable, of course, and if they are not becoming, the neck may be finished with a turnover collar of the silk, or a black satin stook with a piping of white on the edge and a narrow blaok satin cravat tied around this with a little stiff bow in front. Others are finished with a plain ribbon collar and bow in the back, and a ribbon belt

One very stylish shirt of reseda green silk is worn with a black silk tic, three gold studs down the front and a gold belt.

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Either: gold or silver buttons are a feature of the" decoration, -which must not be ignored.if you •would have a success.

This sort of waist is very useful ylth the black coat and skirt tailormade dress which is so popular'thls season,.and worn

FOR HOME WEAR.

quite as much by young women as by those of more mature years. In fact, the blaok gown is a leading favorite with girl* who are not yet out of their teens. It m*kea such an effective background for all the

THE NEW SLEEVES.

pretty vests their fancy can devise that it needs no other recommendation. Black and white effects, which never seem to go out of fashion, are as popular as erer, and white silks with black stripes are well represented among the imported gowns.

SILKEN ROBES DE NU1T. While every thought is given to the deck ing of the body for street wear it will be well to turn a few stray thoughts in the direction of some of the exquisitely chic and dainty night robes being sent over for our inspection. The softest of soft In ditf silks and the finest of fine batistes are used for the smartest of these, and whole pieces of ribbon and the loveliest of delicate laces are lavished on them. The batiste gowns are especially lovely and launder in the best possible way.

Very, very pretty ones are made of this stuff in a soft, creamy tint, with the narrowest of Valenciennes lace set in at the seams. Some sort of an odd, full collar flares out over the big bishop sleeves, which usually reach to the elbow and are finished by a frill of lace.

The big sleeves are drawn in at the wrist by ribbons run through the open-work lace, and fastened in a bow on the top of the arm. In the same way the collar is drawn in at the throat and fastened in a full bow in front.

When the tan-tinted batistes are used the lace matches in color, while the ribbons may be of any fchade desired. Robes de chambre of silk are dainty enough for a princess to wear. They are made in the Mother Hubbard shape, with deep oval yokes, all lace Insertions set together with narrow satin ribbons, ending with a bow at each row, and ?dged all about with a deep frill of lace. Sometimes there is a oollar in sailor chape, or one eet together in deep points, made of white mousseline de sole, set together with tucked frills. Jabots of lace reach from throat to hem, with here and there full knots of ribbon.

A wonderfully lovely robe of empire silk in pale rose pink and white stripe an inch wide is made up with pelissed frills of white mousseline de sole and a tucked yoke of the 6ime. Yellow, in the pale, soft shades, ia a favorite color for brunettes, but is worn beautifully by pale-skinned blondes as well. Full choux of satin ribbon in babe width are tucked in among the frills with pretty effect.

BYRON'S FRIEND BRIDGET.

On the Poet's Acconnt Her tflnrriagrc Was Broken Off Forever. Elizabeth Bridget Pigot was a friend and correspondent of Lord Byron, who "lived at Southwell, with which place her mother's family was connected nearly all her life. In 1804, when 16 years old, Byron and his mother arrived there and occupied a house, Burgage manor, opposite her mother's on Burgage Green. The Pigots 'received Byron within their circle as one of themselves.' The first of Byron's letters which Moore prints was written to Miss Pigot. Byron, whom she describes as *a fat, bashful boy,' was 'perfectly at home' witb her, and of an evening would listen to her playing and sirig with her. In 1805 Byron left Southwell for Cambridge, but pa{d Miss Pigot occasional visits until 1S07, and regularly corresponded with her until 1811. When he was at Southwell slio acted as his amanuensis. Byron addressed her in his letters at first as 'My Dear Bridget,' and afterward as 'Dear Queen*Bess.' She nicknamed him her 'Tony Lumpkin.' To her Byron addressed the poem beginning 'Eliza, what fools are the Mussulman eect!' About 1S07 Miss Pigot was engaged to be married but on the same day she happened to write two letters, one to her lover and the other to Lord Byron. By some mischance she Inclosed them in the wrong covers, and the lover, receiving the letter intended for Byron, broke off the engagement. During the rest of her long life Miss Pigo^iniused herself and her friends with nABRing the minute incidents of her intimacy^with the poet, and presented to his admirers many scraps of his writing. Miss Pigot died at her home in Easfchorpe, at Southwell, Dec. 11, 1866, and was buried, aged 88, on the 15th. A packet of Byron's letters was said to have been buried with her."

ABOUT LUNCHEON.

Luncheon is an important meal and should be ca^efuHy selected and pre-, pared. If tea is used, the mistress should know that it is perfectly, fresh' and made of freshly bolied water. At least one hot dish should form part of the menu. It should not be a heavy one, but it should be nourishing. Omelets, poached eggs, hashed meats on toast, croquettes or the like should be served. A green salad or relish should be on the table, and fruit, either cooked or raw, should be eaten. Toast is more palatable than cold bread, and should therefore be used. Cake is an unnecessary luxury, a sufficient amount of sugar being taken in the healthier form of fruit. Such a noonday diet as this is appetising, nourishing and digestible—a trinity of virtues absolutely lacking in the ordinary household luncheon menu.

Perhaps Miss Ecclen Is Plain. An English woman. Miss Eccles, has \oea making an interesting classification of the different types of "pretty women," and baa made the depressing discovery that most pretty women are unpopular that to be thoroughly winning a woman must be plain. The "professional beauty." she sadly asserts, is not liked by womon or men, and even the girl who is called "fetching" will ultimately be distaased by her sensibly

TERRE HAUTE EXPRESS.

GOTHAM DECORATIONS.

It is a common error to suppose that daiuty decoration is an exclusive possession of tho rich and well-to-do. This error Is due largely tothe fact that In articles and publications devoted to the decorative arts, expensive designs are usually chosen for illustration and description but while it is easily possible to spend $5,000 Upon the decoration Of a room of moderate size, it is altfd possible to produce for one-tenth of that cost, or even for a far smaller sum than that, an effect in equally good taste.

There. is no reason why anyone with limited means ai^hls command should hesitate to att«i$ity artistic decoration, if it' is executed bV*'i competent hand. For myself I would tfjeft lor more pleasure in decorating a houeMijfc^noderste ocst, where the ingenuity wdprli -be taxed to save as much money as possible in producing effects. than in ex:ejai0$g one of those carteblanche .orders which fere so often given to American decorators. The profit would be less, but the aitUtie problems to conquer would fasefhata the genuine artist, «ald a welt known artist lately. .t-x—

The typical cash, We will eay, is that of an American f&mujrwhich will this spring move into a botjwe, either now or not, whioh has been purchased, built or leased for such a term of years as to constitute a real home. If the Chouse is new and was not designed by the owner's architect, it Is sometimes possibly at least In the cities, to buy it at a reduoed price before the woodwork has been laid on or the finishing touches completed. In such case a house can profitably be put into the decorators' hands for harmonious treatment In the finishing of an ordinary three-story city block house, or of a country house of corresponding size, $1,000 can be made to produce very beautiful effects.

Assuming that the house is a narrow one in a block with the ordinary basement din-ing-room and straight narrow stains. The dining-room can be simply finished with a base and otair rail, between which a dado of blue denim can be applied as if it were wall-paper: above the chair rail the wall can be laid with plain cartridge paper with a small frieze of garlands, and the ceiling may be a dainty and delicate cream tint, almost white. The kitchen plastering should be painted in oil so that it can be kept clean easily. The far lor may be decorated

with wall-paper in the Iiouis XVI. pfttoriui, whioh are so popular this spring, the bedroom* in chintzes and in Dresden toafgac, each in a different oolor key. —x— —x— —x—

The remodeling oiran old houso in a town is an Interesting study for a decorator. A very successful treatment In altering houses of the high stoop and basement order once so common in New York is to tear away the stoop and drive a front entrance of generous width 'oito the ba*emetrt itself, with a narrow side entrance to the rear for tradesmen. In such a design, the frost basement will contain a tiny reception room or even a reception alcove from the entrance hall, the stairs will rise in easy flights in the square hall in the middle, wbtle behind, reached directly from the side entrance, the laundry and kitchen may be Placed. On what was the first florfr we find in front a library or lounging-room, the full width of the house next to that the square hall, then the parlor, and behind that, in an ex* tension aa#ed for the purpose, a small din-lug-room, with a butler's pantry containing a narrow winding stair to tho kitchen still behind that.

These extensions, which are often placed upon new houses as well as old, in New York, at least, on account of the oost of the land, are never quite so wide as the main house, thus leaving room at the side for a good, window in the house itself. Upon a lot of unusual width, say twentythree to thirty feet, variations of this plan are possible, such as a tiny conservatory, plated beside the dining room, a little smoking room charing the end of the extension with a butler's pantry. In one such case where the dining room was done In a dull Romanesque order, the conservatory seen .through the wide doorway wms gay with decorations in a modified Ixuis XV. design, and the parlor was daintily decorated in Empire style.

One of the most successful bits of decor ration I have done recently was in transforming a rough loft some 45 by 20 feet into a clubroom for the "Sign o* tho Lanthorn" of the city. The room was dirty and rough and unfinished, but it was In the oldest building In New Yorok City, and it was Judged best to decorate, retaining as much as possible the effect of Antiquity. A row of columns of the simple Doric order were thrown across the middle as to break up the appearance of extreme length. TJio oeillng beams were stained a uniform

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dark tint, the walls were oovared with bur- BojnUty Some Good, After laps pasted on and painted, each room in a different tint The two great old fireplaces, which had stood 200 years, were left untouohed, exoept tr trifling repairs to the brick hearths. The total cost of the repairs, including considerable carpentry work—for the room was in had oondition— wae about $160. This sum included some wall defloration of anolent armor and weapons, to which the members have since added, and now when upon a chilly night the big wood fires blaze in the old hearths there not a Cheerier room in the city.

It is no longer common to build houses with such high ceiling* as were 1b favor fifteen or twenty years ago. Every foot of height in the ceiling requires more than a foot of length in the vtairway, and every stair must be trodden over many times a day by every member of the family. Where In such houses Ceiling* fifteen or even eighteen feet were sometimes used by tho builders of a former day, thirteen, twelve, or even, eleven are now more usual heights,

Munltacey's New Fainting1.

The latest painting of M. Munkaesy, the famous Hungarian trtlst, one of the scenes in the life of Christ, destined for the International Exhibition at Budapest, is now on view in his studio, Avenue ae Vllliers, Paris, and is the best and finest conception of tho whole series. "Ecce Homo," for such is the title, represents Pilate showing our Savior to the crowd, after his scourging, in a last effort to avoid condemning him to death. Christ stands on the balcony of the Praetorium, the figure bared to the waist, a wonderful expression on His face of combined majesty and suffering, the crown of thorns on His head, drops of olood on His forehead, and in His hand the reed given Him in mockery of his supposed claims to be King of the Jowji. Pilate, in Roman robes, standing beside Him, bending toward the crowd, with an expression of mingled scorn and contempt, which crowd, roused to rage and hate by the appearance of its victim. Is so life-like, the expression of vengeance on the faces to unique, that one cap almost hear the words, "Crucify Him! Crucify Him!" proceeding from It. In the background the moth*r ot Christ has fainted. The costumes, in the1* vivid coloring, are true to Oriental originals, which have changed but little in two thousand years. Astray dog, which had got Itself mixed up in the crowd, and palm trees visible over tho side of the court, add to the local coloring of the picture.

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An»cng the crowned heads wbo greatest interest in charity are the King #t Italy and the Dowager Em&tess of Russia. At Christmas and Easter time ths ferns? gives away thousands of poends to charts not very long ago insisted that a court ball should be abandoned and the mooe/ distributed among tho poor. Nothing can the enthusiasm with which the Dowager Oar* ina takes up charitable work. Not only Is she herself most generous, but the also knoTa tow to influence others. The greatest otfc «he done is undoubtedly the ereotloa by law, tut on her initiative, of founding hospital: is numerous parts of the vw»t Rissian 9m»!r*.

A Monkey aa Kurse.

There are not many mothers who would fancy a monkey as nurse for their babies yet the capacity for tenderness In these creatures—surely the least understood by us ot all the brute creation!—seems almost to warrant the Darwinian theory that *hey have In them human elements. One of the most popular passengers on board a Union steamer that recently arrived at Southampton from South Africa was a large monkey who had been instrumental in saving the lire of a child. After the terrible explosion in Johannesburg, one of the many ruined houses was fouud to contain enly one room Intaot: In this was a cradle, sud In the cradle a dead baby. ttPed by some falling debris. It6 twin was ii'.r®, and was being tenderly r.ursed in the arms of the groat rtonkey, who had evideatlv matched it up out of the way of tKnger. It will be remembered that a similar service was rendered by a monkey to a rclop of the ducal house of Lelnster—the peril In tnat case being from fire—and that the west or the family is borne as a token of their gratitude to tho t-ravp animal. The latest raonkoy hero is evidently passionately fond of children, for be paid ceaseless attention to ail the babies on the boat, and was perfectly nappy if allowed to nurse them, which he did with great skill.

Instead of individual salt cellars a ttbls Is greatly nmoinented If two larger or.ea are used or some quaint rid fashioned device. Such were recently seen whore the dinner servlcc was of rich old Muo china, a^d (he air ot :alts wero of the same beautiful tint glass and set in wrought silver.

Parent—Who is the kulest boy in yon* class, Johnny? Johnny—I dutmo. "I should think yoa would know. When all the others are industriously writing or studying their lessens, who is he that sits idly in his seat and watchca the rest, Instead of working himself?" "The teacher."