Semi-weekly Express, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 31 March 1896 — Page 6

LOVES OF TEA GOWNS.

^Hlfl STYLES WERE NEVER HANDSOMER OR PRETTIER.

SOME CHARMING DESIGNS.

*he Lenten Season Has Brought Them Out in All Thflr Glory. Dresden Patterned Silks Used.

NEW YORK, March 27.—Every woman las a soft spot in her heart for a teagown Whether it costs $5 or $100, and nearly every *tian has a soft spot in his heart for a pretty Jeoman in a pretty teagown. In fact, one 'nan of great discernment has remarked: "Half of the fascination of the nineteenth Century woman 'urks in the folds of the ieagown," and yet the new woman has a growing ambition for bloomers.

Teagowns and neglige jackets, so suggestive of comfort and complaisant sympathy with the moods of the wearer, ought certainly to be in the ascendant of dress during fcient, when the hours not devoted to church iud charity are supposed to be given up to K*ifui meditation at home. The finely winkled crepons, which are fast going out »f fashion for otlier gowns, are especially lesirable for this variety of dress, because they are soft and clinging, and come in juch pretty light tints, but flowered crepes And Dresden patterned silks are much used.

China silks, with all-over Persian patterns, are not very expensive, and make frery useful and dainty gowns, lined with jnun's veiling, to g:ve them a little warmth. A fuli front, of p.'ain China silk in some jight color makes a pretty contrast, and a jittlo 'ace and satin ribbon is the only trlmJning needed.

For women who are neither youthful nor |il!m, there is tiie Princess drees of black brocaded satin, silk or surah, and very much prettier is gown of black silk scattered over with 6mall bunches of violets. This, cut princess shape at the back and sides, with a front of violet satin draped with jetted Chantilly lace, and a finish of black tind white cctrich Teather trimming around the neck and sleeves, is charming.

For young ladies who think this 6tyle of fircss too old for their tender years there in fuo daintiest little gown of flowered Liberty silk with a blue ground, made with a Watteau plait in the back, a full white c'aiflon front, edged !own each tklo and around tho wrists with a narrow band of vliita rir, «r.d a frilled white chiffon flciiu

r?,

i'I

•-C&As J-

-^i

& PflfiCffiS

"M A1

tied across the bust completes the picture. Paisley velvet printed In an Oriental design is often effectively combined with plain crepon in these gowns, and panels of It appear on either side of the skirt and puffs at the top of the sleeves. Pale blue, plnjc.

green, and biscuit-colored crepons make pretty tea gowns, and there are cashmeres and French flannels for the plainer dresses.

Japanese "kimono" made of Liberty silk or figured crepe is a very popular gown for the slim woman's neglige.

A pretty gown for both breakfast and afternoon teas shows the Watteau effect in the back, which is the usual cut in all these dresses, except the princess, and the yoke is of cream white satin trimmed with insertions of cream lace, front and back alike. Another gown of flowered silk, with a white ground, is lined with nun's veiling, trimmed with fine lace, and green ribbon is tied around the waist.

The tea jacket is worthy of some attention, even though it

more difficult to

arrange, and must be very elaborate in detail to be effective.

One

dressy model of

striped and flowered silk Is fitted quite closely in the back and at the sides, ha3

.WHEN HER FRIENDS CAU^

a Watteau" ^I^CT^g out from tie shoulder a soft chiffon front, and a trimming of ermine. The sleeves are of plain China tilk In a light color, accordion plaited, with eDaulets of tn© striped silk falling over them.

A neglige Jacket of soft silk Is cut out square in the neck, edged with a band of lace Insertion, and the full loose front is plaited underneath. The back has two box plaits, and round the shoulder Is a deep circular collar of batiste, edged with a frill of the same: this forms epaulets over the shoulders, and extends down either side of the front Another pretty jacket of figured crepe is trimmed with lace insertion, and has a soft front of pink chiffon tied across with pink ribbon.

Pretty Jackets tot summer wear are made of white batiste, striped with lace Insertion, and trimmed around the bottom and up and down the front with a frill of tho same edged with lace. A more dressy jacket of silk has frills over the shoulders and a soft front below the yoke of. embroidered chiffon.

Primrose Gloves for Evening. Pale primrose yellow gloves are very fashionably worn with evening toilets. The rival to these gloves is a long, velvety mousquetairo glove, in cream white. Other suede gloves are worn that repeat in tintthe shade of the trimmings of the gown. Where pink satin or chiffon Is used with bouquet decorsage of bluish roses, the gloves are of cameotinted kid. Mauve gloves stitched with white are en suite with toilets of violet taffeta and chiffon trimmed with white lace green gloves of palest hues are fashionable, hut green toilets look best with gloves of faintest maizecolored undressed kid.

To Fasten. Souvenir Flowers. It is a pleasant custom when friends are invited to a meal, be it a formal luncheon or tea, that they shall find a flower beside each plate. But one Is often bothered at an evening party to know just how to secure the favor in the bodice.' It is an act of thought-

#i/o

Jov/Cvr

fulness for the hostess to provide pins for those to whom flowers are given. The best fastener for a rosebud is undoubtedly a short hatpin. For smaller flowers, such as jonquils or carnations, long black pins with beaded head? answer the purpose admirably.

Francis Mahoney. was long known amon? his acquaintances as "Father Prout," his best known book having been entitled "Reliques of Father Prout."

A female dancer brought in the slave mart of Attica from $700 to $1,500.

The fashionable color of the season In London is purple, a touch of which appears upon almost- every costume. Next in favor comes mulberry, which Is most attractive in faced cloth, velveteen and corduroy.

Miss Bessie Marsh of Pasadena. Cal., has studied the French method of makng candied flowers and has a market for all she can make a^ $2.50 a pound. She herself raises large quantities of violets for the purpose.

NIGHT AND DEATH.

Mvstcrious night! when our first parent knew Thee from report divine, and heard tny nanle

...

Did he not tremble for this lovely frame. This glorious canopy of light and blue? Yet 'neath a curtain of translucent dew.

Bathed In the rays of the great setting flame, Hesperus, with the host of heaven, came. And lo! creation widened in man's view. Who could have thought such darkness lay concealed

Within thy beams, O sun? or who could find, Wlfllst fly and leaf and insect stood revealed. That to such countless orbs thou mad'st us .blind? ... Why do we, then, shun death with anxious strife? If light can thus deceive, wherefore not life 7

John Rusliin published his early writings under the pen name "Graduate of Oxford, uje selection being obviously Influenced by his place of education.

GOWN IN DRESDEN SIL&

iff TAr

TERRE HAUTE EXPRESS

FINE LUEHS ANQ DIMITIES. .V

Airy Mnslins, With Flowers and Cool Grasaeloth and Cambrics. Linen grenadine and linen batiste are the names given to the new weaves, and In tone they run more toward a gentle brown than to the sage tint of last summer.

As to the patterns, there are stflpes and squares in narrow satin llnee In a contrasting color, white, gold, green, blue and pink, the striped designs having in some instances in the two-Inch space between the bars small dots of silk in the same tone.

Then there are linen batistes woven all nver with stripes, squares, or stiff designs In open biscuit lace, and these are recommended to be made ovfr some bright, becoming silk, which would show through the perforation and take away from the tryin? dullness of the linen.

Indeed, it- seems to be generally understood that tlw» grass linens are all to be made over silk.

The few rare model* »s ye! seen were so combined, hue a little experimenting proved that, with a plain grenadine or batiste the same effect could be made with a sateen foundation, and this would certainly be much less expensive than a silk one.

A novelty !n these linens is a very nale creponated weave called "frou-frou," which a forty-two inch width and sells at $1.95 the yard.

A frou-frou linen gown made vn on pink silk wa« paraded In a gloss case Hke a hothouse flower and marked SI00. The foundation was In the most vivid watermelon olnk ever" seen, but it only lent a rosy, becoming glow to the neutral linen.

Bands of a thick, white Russian lace run through with a narrow blank velvet, ornamented the bodice, the velvet tying nt. the shoulders and at the bottoms of the puff sleeves in a great chrysanthemum rosette.

It is marvelous the number of colors that the makers have mTaged to combine In the If test stockings. The hues of the rainbow are repeated In the hosiery -supplied by the shopkeepers for spring wear. Black, which for many seasons has held ttndlvided sway, yields precedence to color In variety. Tt is the custom among the fashionable to have the hosiery match In tint the gown with which It is to be worn.

Some very striking combinations 1p colored boots and black tops are apt to appear offensive to women of quiet tastes but color thi£ season Is rampant. So she must lose her antipathy to vividness and consent to wear br!lliant.-hued hosiery.

Some very dainty .examples are those with the old-fashioned clock instep. These are In cotton, lisle and silk, and are among the latest Importations. They range in price from 60 cents to $2.25. Black or colored stockings embroidered with tiny vines or single flowers scattered over the instep and sometimes reaching over the top of the shoo are very fetching. More elaborate stockings have a line of open work resembling a hemstitched pattern alternating with a delicate, embroidered vine. These are expressly designed to wear indoors with low shoes and with Indoor evening dress. Another new style Is ornamented with diamond-shaped bits of open work at Intervals, extending from the ankle to half •way to the knee. These are a novelty.

Of the very bright stockings the Scotch plaids are foremost. A black or brown ground, with hair-line stripes in blue gresn, yellow and red, Is a popular design. Plaid hose sometimes have a light background, with even more delicate colors forming the broader checks. The plaid invariably reaches almost to the bend of the knee. It is finished with the plain color predominating in the stocking. The plain golf stocking with a plaid iurn over at the top is now regarded as passe. The golf stocking in demand at present Is a plaid of the neutral tints which have characterized all athletic hosiery to date.

An odditv In the way of hofiierv Is a stocking of cobwebby fineness and woven of cotton. It te intended for women who not wear silk and do not like lisle. The texture of these stockings app°ars so fragile that one would deem 't small economy to buy them at S2.75 a pair. It is almost Impossible to believe 'that these transparent, gauzy hose could be the least bit durable, but it Is said that they will wear as long as .my stocking woven from choice cotton. Tho yarn used in their manufacture Is selected and flawless.

In silk, for evening wear, there are 6omo lovely new patterns. An entire insteo composed of Chantilly lace seem* a waste of good material. An elaborate design In lace medallions

outlined in seed pearls, and

I'sle hose with bands'of insertion revealing the flesh beneath forces the belief that styles In stockings this season are extreme.

And to keep these gaudy coverings In place are shown a pretty array of garters with some quaint and cute buckles. Decorated elastic comes In new designs just now. Collecting garters to match an assortment of colored hosiery Is the swagger young woman's occupation for the moment-

"Variety Is the spice of life." a fact which is recognized by the world of fashion. with the result that we are constantly treated to the new and startling In the realm of finery. Outre is a word but seldom heard nowadays, because the general taste has gone through such a renovating that what a short time ago would impress one as the height of ugliness Is now,considered, and very correctly, the acme of good taste.

Flaring pinks and vivid scarlets are now set Jn in the most amiable way together. They seem as if made for one another, while pinkish violet atd brilliant Dutch blue are the kindest friends. One of Virot gowns for spring, which will first see the light of day on Easter Sunday, provided the sun shines, is a clever combination of these two latter colors.

The skirt is made up of a plain, smooth surfaced cloth, with a reversible side of violet. It has nine gores, all of them as wide as possible at the foot, and sharply pointed at the waist. There Is a'lining oI brocaded violet silk, which shows brilliantly when the sldrt Is lifted.

The bodice Is in the form of an Eton Jacket, of violet silk, brocaded with

rings of gold and black. It is drawn smoothly acrcss the back, ending in sharp points at the front. Under this Is worn a smooth vest of the blue, overlaid with rows of the narrowest black velvet.

the blue flare out

Ripples

g"P«V****S&. tfJKir jv-vr**r

•**•!¥•?-,

Over

tho hips, faced with

the violet. Broad revera spread over the shoulders, bordered with an edging of heavy- gray lace. A high stock of violet velvet sets up about the throat, and Is topped by a lot of lace squares falling over It. With this gowni

worn a Jaunty little narrow brimmed nai of dull blue straw, all full of fancy figures. The brim Is faced with blue velvet, and a big knot of gray tinted laco forms the outside adornment.

Kow very often a smart gown Is utterly ruined by the wearing of an ugly hat or inappropriate glovefl. Much of this tne

•*Jh'-«.wi „,-?', -tf

fault of indiscriminate shopping. One thing chosen without reference to the other, with conglomeration as the result. It's a wonderfully good plan when buying gloves to carry a bit of the gown with which they are to be worn in one's purse. Try the effect of It with the gloves, and lots of trouble will be saved.

Tan gloves may b© worn with almost any costume. And yet there are a dozen different shades of tan, and not all of them will harmonize with the color of your gown. The brilliant yellow tan, a very deceptive shade, when Viewed In the shops. Is actually hideous when put with many colors. The darker colors only seem to accentuate It, Instead of toning It down. And It looks such a'mild, innocent color when by itself.

The mode tones are by far the safer. as«"», well as the more lady-like, and can with appropriateness bo combined with almost any color of gown or hat. Then there are the redder shades of tan. which look their best with black. The soft shades of pearl and smoke gray are decidedly the best form for all dress occasions, when white gloves are not worn. The black stitching upon these is preferred to white or the same color.

Black gloves give a decided air of distinction to many toilets, especially If there are accessories of black. The deep brick red and reddish brown are the most useful colors worn: they last the longest and look well eenerally until the end.

Pale lemon tinted gloves, heavllv stitched with black, and fastened with big black buttons, divide the favor with white ones, finished In the same manner. Tt is rumored that silk gloves and mitts will be universally worn during the coming summer, and it is to be hoped the rumor has foundation, at least so far aa the gloves go. for certainly nothing can be cooler.

VERY MUCH IN LOTH.

If thon are false. Then heaven. Is earth—all love a lie— And thy hand's clasp of mine to-night Will sting as doth a serpent bite: And the pale moon will cease to shin® On the false eyes I thought divine. If thou art true. Then earth is heaven—all love Is true— And my brief sorrow of

It Is a well-known fact that no great work in music has ever been composed by a woman. Two of the gentler sex, however, are now doing some pretty good work In short compositions. Only yesterday a prominent music dealer said: "There are no songs so popular or so much sought after by persons of good taste as those of Miss Chaminade and of Kate Vannah. We sell twice as many

songs as we d$

De Koven."

Mrs. Lillian

the decision of the Supreme Court of the State that it was Illegal for women to vote, voluntarily withdrew her name. In recommending her to her present post, the-president of the Senate stated that he did so in the conviction that she was eminently fitted for the place, her previous record as secretary of tne County Committee having "been a brilliant and satisfactory one.

J1V LADY'S SECRET.

Mv lady alwavs smiled—not much to do: But when the hours and days increase in care, And dreariness and weariness pursue. When youth and love grow dim in backward view.

And life ts but to bear and still forbear Ah! then, her gentle sweetness, undefiled By years of bitterness, shone forth—she smiled.

Mv lady always smiled, in life and death Some envied her a life that seemed all smiles, ATd some cried out or caught a sobbing breath.

Self-pitying, and God and man reviled But some, to sorrow's burden reconciled. Were glad the gladness of her face to see Through toil and care, and heartless apathy.

But when they laid my lady with the flower. To sleep, where wake a thousand smiling springs, A solitary father, praying hours Beneath grand arch and grave cathedral towers,

Thanked, for my lady's rest, the King or Kings: He knew her soul had yearned a weary while To sleep, and ?est the burden of a smile! —Mary Berri Chapman, in Lyrics of Love

IN FAIR PROVENCE.

Land of Provence—the cllme of loveWhere Arnant wrote, the prince of song. Whom Petrarch called, of all above.

Love's master poet, to prolong The sestine form, and spurn all other rhyme, But love was not as mine In Arnant's time!

'Twas

a dream we passed away

seek that land, where cares are

The kiss that set your soul on fire And conquered all your word!!ne3S, Revealed the one supreme desire "And my emotion's mightiness It shattered all your pltilc-ss reserve. And gained the Joy that loving doth deserve.

The na!n of bliss, so deep, was new. And yet-1 sang of you alone. Until I fdt the morning dew

big

Upon your brow. The night had flown! That perfumed night of joy and ardor gone. When our reflected souls with passion shone! —Francis Meiljon.

Eurene D'Albert was married recently to tho Grand Ducal Weimar chamber singer, Herrc!ne Fink. The ceremony took place in the Protestant Church of Gemsbach. in the Black Forest

There is a great deal going on beside gambling and listening to goo# music and eating good dinners, says a woman writing from Nice. There is pigeon shooting and racing and yachting and tennis, and one has never a moment to spare unless time is stolen to sit beneath the palms and dream while gazing out over the smiling Mediterranean.

"Barry Cornwall" was the assumed name of W. Proctor. Some of Barry's songs will probably live as long as the English language is spoken.

Wmm%

to-day

Will pass like Anril showeis away. And over me will stretch anew Heaven's clear unfathomable blue. —Henry Overy it* Pall Mall Magazine.

Skirt In golden-brown Amazon cloth. Bodice of beige-colored silk relieved by short braces of the brown velvet, edged with deep yellow lace, and finished off by ivory satin rosettes. Brown velvet picture hat with fluted edge, having ivory satin bows drawn through a paste buckle in the front, and brown satin loops with a white osprey at the back. Velvet ruffle around the throat.

did

any male composer, except

Pardee, although a wife and

mother, has found time to distinguish herself in many ways. She has the unique honor to be secretary of the Senate for the new Stato of Utah. She is an ardent suffragist, and was nominated for a seat in the Senate, but on

~,- ~f V"

r. .5w'v.^ frifriiilTfT%'-"'

,-*f'"'

It happen? Nobody knows— She gave me a rose.

And I, bending nearer to see It the clearerWell. now, I suppose I Just couldn't help it—'twas as much a surprise TO me as to her! Her beautiful eyes. Half startled, half glad, looked up Into mlne^

And before I had time

To beg her sweet pardon I did It again. (Most wretched of mep!) But then, you know. Eve tempted-Adam, and

She tempted met

their

Girls should not be pretty—they should not give roses. For no one supposes A man to be perfect! I'm not. and I'm glad. For if I had been I should not have had The exquisite bliss of that kiSs! "What man wouldn't miss The Joy of perfection thereby to discover

The Joy o&a loveF?

Some people might blame me, but. As every one knows. Eve tempted poor Adam, and she tempted me.

She gave me a rose. —Harriet Francene Crocker.

EARLY FLOWERED MUSLINS.

The First Designs Are Far Lovelier Than th% Later Ones. Spring and summer wash fabrics have come to town, and, like the first Jonquils and hyacinths that push their sweet heads up suddenly to say good-bye to winter, they are nodding gayly from all 'he big shop windows. Compared to the heavy offerings, indeed, that parade by in the bitter day, these dainty textiles are genuine buds of promise to the woman who knows her summer frocks to be the most becoming of all so one Is not surprised to find fair femlnines rushing like 6heep to crop the first blossoms of the cotton and linen harvest.

tho early bird every time that catches the worm, and this holds good with muslins and organdies as well ns other things. They are mora expensive Just now. of course, than they will be later, but among all the standard designs that are likely to run straight through the summer, there are bound, as always, to be a few rare and novel ones which late btfyers will never see.

Shoulder Fringes of Jet. On black gowns the epaulets are of Jet, with a frinse falling over the arm. The style much liked because of the broadening effect it gives to the shoulders, an effect which, it is needless to say. Is much sought after at present.

IN A MUSICAL WAY.

A school baa been established In Venice which is to be devoted exclusively to church music.

Costumed muslcales are being popular in musical society circles. For Instance, say the programme Is a French one, the ladies who perform will wear pretty Watteau gowns, which will suggest a French atmosphere. Where a Hungarian programme is chosen, the costumes are Hungarian In style, and so on. It is only a fad. but rather a pretty one.

CHANGELESS.

As on Its annual career The world goes gaily spinning. The same old hope, xtxe same old fear

Still has its same beginning. For just ere springtime smiles again The people sit and wonder On old-time themes of joy and pain

That years cannot snow under. Will Conarress In ponderous indolence lag. Will the Washington nine get a chance at thj flag? Will Turkey assume a more generous part? Will Emperor William give lessons in art? Will Pefler's brave whiskers still wave in the

West?

Will the Buzzard's Bay fish give the duckHug rest? Will Tillmah he eager and up for the chase? Will "new women" and bloomers still be in the race? And so they crowd on In a ceaseless array As we found them of yore, so we flnd them today. Though other old friends may prove fickle and go,

Suclj

none.

And music fills the round of day Bene.ith a warm, delicious sun Where all the past is one long lane of love. And night breathes passion perfumed from above.

I took you there, away from care. The busy world ensnared your eyes, And other voices, void as air.

Possessed your ears—a thousand ties Seemed to encumber you, and fall between My humble self and you. inspiring queen.

In fair Provence my soul revived. And sones'of love flowed all tho day At eve the nightingale contrived

To hearken, only, to my lay Your beauteous head upon my breast reposed. Then darker grew the night—your eyes were closed.

standbys will ever be with us. we know.

"•"^^'"iTr'-'urrii fit jn tjmjijji' m.

SHE GAVE ME A ROSE.

How

THOSE TROUBLESOME TRESSES.

Wh?n They Commence to Fall LeaiS to Massage the Scalp. Very often the hair falls and tonics prove of little avail. In this case it Is well to massage the scalp. Not Infrequently tha scalp becomes tight on the head. This prevents circulation, the follicles of the hair become anaemic and as a result the hair falls. The only remedy Is to give the head a course of massage, which is easily and simply done. Place a hand on each side of the upper part of the face, with tiie thumbs pressed on the head behind the ears and the little finger Just above where the eyebrows begin then spread out the other fingers over the head, and for ten minute* gently work the scalp backwards and for« wards. Finally, with the thumb and forefinger pinch the scalp all over, continuing until the head begins to tingle this looseni the scalp from the bone and starts the circulation. Keep up this treatment night and morning until the hair ceases to fall.

Alas, Frivolous Femininity. A Bath clergyman is authority for the statement that as regularly as the years roil around, in the spring, for several successivg Sabbaths, the feminine portion of his congregation is obviously diminished, and does not regain its usual average size until all to# ladles have their new bonnets and hats.

Siberian Bahiea Are Not Nice. As described by a recent traveler, Russian babies as seen in the homes of the Russian peasants In Siberia, are very unattractive specimens of humanity. "I looked curiously at one little bundle." says the traveler, whlct, was laid upon a shelf. Another hung frocf the wall on a peg, while a third was slung over one of the supporting rafters, and wa* being swung to and fro by the mother, who had a cord loop over her foot. Why! I cjled in surprise, 'that's a child!' 'Of :ourae it is replied the woman, 'what else should it be?* Having learned so much in so short a time, 1 had an irresistible desire to inspect the con. tents of the swinging bundle. I peeked, but turned away in disgust, for the child was ai dirty as a pig in a pen. I could not refrain from asking one question. It may have beet impertinent. 'Washed!' shrieked the mother, ipparently horrified. 'Washed! What? Wasfe a baby! Why, you'd kill It!'

Little ideas and big successes never go to« gether.

THE LUCKY MAN'S WIFE.

.ID:3LJ

She Is never a martyr. She never divulges her methods. She never apologizes for the food. She lets every one have affairs or tnelr own. She never describes her aches and pains. She never dwells on unpleasant reminiscences.

She never communicates any news berors

^She^is always polite and cordial to the children's friends. Disorder of a temporary nature does not visibly disturb her.

She never tells her husband anything of the least unpleasant character. She never corrects the children in tne presence of any person, even the family.

When the family diatribe threatens sna knows how and when to deftly change the subject.

She gets rid of a guest who bores her by simply folding up a newspaper, and the othef never suspects.

FAMOUS NOMS DE PLUME.

W Reynolds selected "Master TIm« othy" when writing his choice essays. whicU bore the title "Master Timothy's Bookcase. \Thomas de Quincy is better known as ths "English Opium Eater." It is a painful refer* enco to the vice of which he was long tha victim. ..

The Rev George Ross wrote over tne nam* of "Arthur Sketchley." An Eastern magazln* says that it was the name of a schoolboy

''sir'walter Scott's little known "Tales of Mj Landlord" was published under the curloul nom de plume "Jededfah Clelshbotham.

Miss Marie Van Zandt, the American so* prano who has been singing In signed engagements in Brussels. Mc® J}!}£ Bucharest. She may also go to Russia, having been invited to sing there.