Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 29, Number 23, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 3 December 1898 — Page 1

o. '/jt n? %.

ON THE QUI VIVfi.

The near approach of the senatorial straggle Is arousing interest in that fight, and there Is much conjecture as to how the representatives of Vigo county stand on this importantqueat/icm. It is understood that Judge Taylor, of Fort Wayne, has two friend* Vn the Vigo delegation, hot so tar as known, there has been no formal«*-presslon-en their part in favor of a*y candidate. Friends flff Perry Heath, the first -ossiStaat postmaster general, were in^he •city, a week or so ago, feeling t*e priblic puiserm this question, and although *&ere "has "been no formal annouocotnent'ef his candidacy, if 1b certain that he wotftd not turn his back on the nomination if*ft were •tendered him. Heath began life as a printer, and owes Ms present exalted standing'to his own efforts. He'ls popular with union printers, and fcence'fcas a high standing among tabor leaders, which wouldTje of immense advantage to him if 'he becomes a caml&latte. Heis easily approached, and while dignified in his political Dealings, is the 'kind df a politician who believes that the "boys" deserve to be looked after. If he should announce Ws candidacy look-ont tor«ome surprises 1st the senatorial fight now on. Mr. Heath's picture has wot yet appeared in the "Oar Candidate" series In 'the Express, Major Steele, who has not yet announced that he is a candidate, Frank Posey and J«dge Taylor being fche oniyeandidates that have been given the 'honor. Other candidates have not been 'Challenged to mutch Steele! and Posey, Jndge Taylor being fee only! one for which thfs ohallenge was issued.

It is understood that the proprietors df the Express do not all subscribe to Che opinion that Judge Taylor is unmsftohable.

The "barmonjf" that is prevailed tin Bepublicanpalltiosil circles is abont as lovely as that prevailing in Deroocratic'circles. At a meeting of the Thompson Ohib Thursday night member presented the resignations of some cixty members of the club, wbioh were accepted. lfc?fcM»aid that a list «f those re-, signing woUId be a most interesbhrgone,' containing oh It does, sewrafl who have been prominent in promoting the factional troubles that the party Is undergoing. It is stated their withdrawal is witto the! end in view of organising a ®ew Hepubli-, can club, to have headquarters inthe old'i McGregor ,property at Sixth andChestnut stwefcs, which is adtuinnbly situated for* place of that kind. Tke resignation of swch a large number -of members-did not affect the work of the Tbonipso* club, as its regular routine of business was con tinned, an«l officers were nominated to be be voted for at the meeting i« .January. A committee was appointed to ascertain-fif the resignations were all made da good faith, or whether the member who presented them had secured the names under a misrepresentation of facts. The com mitrtee will report at the meeting next month. The meetings of the club is about ail that is occurring in local political circles. The Jackson chili held its nominating (meeting last night and uoininntad officers to be voted for in Jasuary, The annual banquet of the ci«b will be heldon January iUh, and will take place at t&e Terre Haute house instead of «.t the ahib roouis.as heretofore.

Q. V. has never hesitated to concede that the editor or trie uaxette is about the •'stuwwthmt" thing that ever happened in an editorial way iu this community. Ijast vrwk Q. V. referred to the mauner-in whioh the Gosette had overlooked falling Judge Stimson what a good fellow he wa« after it had been demonstrated that Judge Jump, to whom the Gazette w.ts committed with unusual seal, had been defeated It always is one of the after-elec-tion features of the Gazette, and Gazette mulers ware wondering if the failure to make this .comment waa a demonstration that the Gazette editor waa losing his cunning. But he hasn't lost it, or auy part of it, as witness this answer to Q. V.'g comment: "Judge Stimsoii was elected by the people to a full term because in the fraction of a term he hail served as an appointee filling a v»uvuky he had justified the good opinion thev had fornnni of him-as a lawyer, a cituen and a. man. He is a good lawyer and a gmxl, lawyer makes a good judge, if he Is of equable temper, of sound judgment, is fair minded and is honest* All these qualities Judge Stimson t*»scHseft. The people were well served by both parties in the matter of judicial nominees.

Nothing contrary to this or in denial of this was said by the Gasette during the campaign. Judge St4mson happened to be the nominee of a party whose sins of commission, congressional and county, as related to this electorate, were as scarlet, and we thought that a good pounding of the part would perhaps assist in washing it as white as wool and we said so. with onr accustomed vigor, Nothing was or could be said against Judge Stimson. His high personal character pulled him through.

That he will make a good judge goes for the saying. And be will find a staunch supporter in the Unsette in the discharge of his duty. He is the judge, oar judge as much as he is anybody**, a plank in that boat which is all that lien between all of us And the sm, and we believe in the boat and are passengers on It.

The "rush and hustle" of getting out a daily paper prevented the Gaaette from telling Judge Stimson what a good fellow he waa before election while there wm a possibility that he might be beaten, but now that he Is elected over the 6a»U«'i

man, tardy acknowledgement fs made of hi« eminent of hi# offlce. The truth is told, even If It is a trifle late in the telling,

•®5 asi?*

envy, but wish that they might be able to enjoy stroh a trip, that takes him to a majority ot the points of interest in three continents, not alone the old worlds bat the practically new ones that have come into commercial prominence within the last tew years. He sails from New York on January 4th, stopping at Gibraltar, and from there going to Naples. From there his itinerary includes visits to Brindisi, Corfu, Athens, Constantinople, Joppa, Jerusalem, Port Said, Cairo, Aden, Boatbey, Delphi, Cawnpore, Calcutta, Colombo, Singapore, Hong Kong, Nagasaki, Yokohama, Honolulu and San Francisco. He had expected to stop at Manilla, and tfew the attractions of «nr new colonic possessions, bvt the report of Charles Carlton, son of Judge Catfton, who has just returned frem a tour of the world,:fcs to the conditioas and sights in Manilin, caused him to change his mind, «nd he lias abandoned the idea «t stopping at ttiat point. He expects to be gone about five or six months, spending some time in Southern California on his retcrn. is a most magnificent trip, and the expense for railroad and steamship travel is^so cheap «s to be surprising. He buys his ticket for the entrirre round trip from John G. Htaril, 6f •this city, who can send a (mn almost any .pllace on the face of the globe.

AMUSEMENTS.

UNDER TIIK JttCI) KOBE.

"Unttcr The Red Kobe," tfo&igrefttest •dramatic success in many years, from the Empire theatre, New York, -will be a geuuioe treat for ocr amusemet' lovers. It wlB beprafiuced tonight «t fche Grand, and, as this will be the r»hly visit, the fact will«ertainly be tolocn ''advantage of by a •large demand for scats. The dramatization of "Under the Red Rbbe" is by Edward Itose, taken from Stanley Weymwn's popular story of tke time of Richelieu, and is in four acts. The scene of the first, is Zaton's, in Paris, where Gil de iBerault is accused'of cheating at cards •and places himself the ban of the Cattlinal by figfctit^ «1 Then ami there he accepts the i.—»Jn, the successful fulfillment otf which is to save his neek. He sncoeeds in his mission in spite of the ticing's eoldiers commanded'by a fop, Capt. Larollc. The last act shows Berault's renunciation of the trust. For the sake of the woman he loves, he gives his enemy his-liberty, and at the palace of the Cardina he receives 'hte rewotd. William Morris, theeminent romantic actor,J,s at thehead of a wjry strong company.

VFRAXXmA'NI RIJ9.

Frank Daniels comes to the Grand next Thursday night with anew opera, '"The Idol's Eye." which, with but one exception, is the first one whose story is laid iu the Attractively picturesque country of Eastern .India. That one exception wnsa work produtied aboata dozen y»ars ago by the McCflull Opera Company and entitled, "The Begum.." This work was not seenj outride of a very few of the largeV cities

fWIKN'AXIWAH

One of the rarest treats ever afforded amusement goers of this city will be the .performance of Bronson Howard's great war drama at the Grand next Friday night. The merits of thie war production *re well known to Terre Haute amusement goers, and this year 'it is produced with greater scenic effects .than, ever before. A battery of artillery *nd a squadron of cavalry are u«ed in tbe production, In addition to the scenic effects, and it will be one of the greatest performances ever given on the local stage. The company thin year is headed by Maurice Barymore and Ma.rjh Hampton who are weB known to local theater goers as the leadens in their reepectivee classes. There are two hundred people on the stage in the great battle scene, including twenty-five Rough Riders, aod several heroes of El Caney and Son nan, and the great climax of the act in which Sheridan rides across the the stage is said to be most wonderful in its excitement. The chances are that the Grand will be crowded next Friday ulght to witness this great war production.

SOTKS,

There is a disiioet martial air about all of Sonsa's music and in "The Bride Elect." he has written made that keeps the feet moving all all the time. His new march, "Unchain the the Doge of War," Is particularly appropriate during these war time*.

Klaw & Krlanger's "Jack and the Beanstalk." to be given here soon. Is not only on a scale of unusual magnitude, but it is sumptuous in every detail. On every hand there ane signs of a lavish expenditure of mooey. The costuming is rich In materia! exquisitely artiaUe In Mending of colors, and there is qtaite a plethova of expensive hi 4tags.d and trmnsfortnattoos in

itch nakt up a series ot

delightful pictures.

Many pennon in TVrre Bottle wit) envy I Albert* the younawst ami of Mr. and Sheldon Swop*, the jeweller, in his trip Mrs, Anton Fries, of north Fourteenth around the world, on which he foav«& New and ""--half sin**, died yesterday mYork on the 4th of next month. Not real ing imtf failure.

mmmmm

VOL. 29—NO. 28. TERRE HAUTE, IND., SATUBDA^X^ENPTO, DECEMBER 3, 1898. ^TWENTY-NINTH TEAK

IN OLD MEXICO.

A T£ftRE l&UTEAN'S IMPRESSIONS ON A FIRST VISIT, Wmm A, M. Hlegias Tells of His Experiences In ^Country' Where Man

Men Go Ta Bed AVith Their Boots Oil—Uncle 'Sam's Money In Mexico.?

Special Correspondence of The Mall. Montekkey, Mexico, November 94.—V Going from Terre Haute to Mexico in Nove»%)er is like taking Turkish bath,, rev«raed. The blizzard which caught «s at St. iliouis was the freezing end of a cold rate. Through Arkansas it tempered down to frost in Indian Territory it was chilly, and, while they call 't a 'norther,*' through Texas we looked in vain for ice 'or frost. It became w^irmer «s we crossed •the-border and, while the Mexicans are •complaining of ttie «old, it is quite pleaar, Ant here. I notice that it -doesn't hinder the oranges from ripening ander She hofrei Windows In Hidalgo square. j«

It makes man feel rtch to put down a twenty-dollar -biH at the money changer's office *t Lsuredo and get forty-Uwo dofilars,. but when yon "pny a dollar or more for a square meal it occurs to yofc that it is the fellow Wko-serves the medl that is^etting rich. Tbe National Mexican Railroad uses««arrow«gange traok, and, coming from Laredo, we -slept!in a narrow-gauge Pullman. Two doflarsin Mexican money' was cheap "enough for a night's ride and sleep, but tkat drftlar meal atQjampazas worries me yet. Tbe-frfjoles and tortillas w«re strarage, tthe beef was tongh and the coffee rank. The train crept along through tbe mountains at a 20niile gait, the Pullman cars being next to. the engine, while the second and'ttaird-oiass coaches brought ap/be re»r of the train. The Mexicans: are all'diissified, and'the peons who ridej in $he 3astoar are *erry looking objects.,1 At L»vredo we were subjected to an easy CBntoms examin&tioa. A Mexican woman] inspector boarded the train and. went through our grips. If youshow reluctance' they search you thoroughly and as I threw up bpth hands anfl quickly opened «p -my grip, she gave one glance at its njgh&trobe and laundry *vork and slapped on a "Reoonocido" stamp, which admitted •dlfiree of duty. She .never looked at my •overeoat nor asked what I had in my pockets. But they toil me it is different aing-bfiok to the "States." UneleSam *«OTOrecarefttl 'fl«d^notv^*'tli&fc*MSSK «u '©pate and cigars, wifch naany other things, •can beoencealed easily. One young American here told me that he successfully •fciauggfled several hundred dollars1 woeth

Am ^pals by dropping several in each -envelojse of a number of old letters that he carried in all of his pockets. Some people would rather-cheat the government tomn eoft.

and*w it wa« so long ago, even there "The of Mexicans, and they constitute the 'Idor« Eye," will be received as having an jigger dass, wear nothing but a thicfc, entirely original environment. Harry B. coarse «ole of leather bound to their mis-' Smith, the celebrated American librettist, who is the author of the new opera, waa also responsible for "The Begum." and the idea of an East Indian story vs always been present in his mind, ever since "The Begum," which was his first effort. Harry Smith's librettos are like the toper's opinion of whiskey, "some Are better than others, but they are all good." Victor Herbert has.composed foe the opera a score filled with many pleasing melodiesdestined to beoome very popular.

A ehoe factory would ..go to the wall i« six weeks down -here. The lower class

shaken, -calloused feet by thongs of hide, •or else wear cast-off shoes of the better class and shuffle atong in a tattered footgear that appears ?to be coming off at every step. I asked a native how they managed to get such rugged tatters on again after they once took them off, and, to my disgust, be told me that they never took th*m off: they sleep with them on and when they wear off they adopt another pair almost as bad. .. j.

But a blanket manufacturer would be kept running overtime in this country. Everybody wears a blanket, and the redder they can buy one, the quicker they will pawn anything else to get it. A Mexwill starve with composure, will freelswith Impunity, but go without his blanket-never. So the narrow streetsand the wide plasas are filled with moving, shuffling blankets, topped off with those outlandish sugar-loaf hats. During the little cold snap this week it looked odd for me to see peons shivering with the cold while drawing the big blanket up over their shoulders and chin, all the time leaving their naked feet exposed, as well as their thin-clad legs, for you must bear in mind that Mexican trousers (peons', of course,) are thin and close fitting. He sleeps in them, as he does in his shoes. And you wouldn't blame him if you saw the stone or dirt floor which he calls bis bed. The humane society would fine -a man up north for forcing his horse to as poor a stall. This "norther" (as Monterrey calls this end of the bHssard) is really causing great suffering here, because these people do not have stoves or any kind of Are for warmth at all. Their little charcoal braeiers would not keep a monsqnito warm, and it is only the rich Mexicans who enjoy the luxury of a little wood stove that you can buy in a Terre Haute junk shop for a dollar.

Bat, with all their faults and oddities, the Mexicans can give us good examples. The clean, white stone sidewalks and bright polished brick-paved streets of Monterrey show that the American to-* bacco spitter has kept away from Mexico. Any lady con walk the business streets of Monterrey, or any Mexican city, and let her dainty skirts trail as she pleases with no worse effect than she would get in her own parlor. When a fellow expectorates oo the sidewalk down here, his fellow sfcreetouites look upon him as decidedly ill-bred. One reason tor all this is thnt chewing tobacco is unknown bete. It is nota Mexican product and the duty is too high to allow its importation. The only

chewtnjjv praeticed is on the raw stalks of (ar cane, which is peddled out at uno va:(one cent) apiece and greedily bjr allot the lower Mexicans and those of the higher class who formerly injbhe country. The high-bred city Mfexicarte even refuse to chew that.

Mexicans may not chew tobacco, but oh, iio# they do smoke it. Everybody smtike8~fCigars are not thought much of. The travelers from the "States" keep up the demand for cigars but the Mexicans »*r%royat users of the little cigarros (cigar"

TMly have more brands of cigarros

(roll when you talk Mexican) than we of cigars up north. While here, I have had the pleasure of meeting all kinds of Mexicans, and no one of them jfailed to offer me the usual cigarro—some Song and white, some short and brown, t)therfrdead black, others yellow. Their cigarros. are not the stuff that northern "coffin hails" are made from, and if you watch 4 Mexican at work, you will see tha.t he does not smoke tbe cigarro from the samfe reason that the northernor smokeft tfae cigarette. A busy and nervous

Yankee' will smoke quickly to stimulate his ovw^jworked brain and nerves. The easy-®oi*ng Mexican will smoke continuously because he likes it. Yon can see Mexican stonemasons with cigarros betwj^eti t'fceir 4ips, just like our hodcarriers wowld carry a .pipe. The soldiers smoke on the poHce on their 'beats the stireetcapr driver lights his little cigarro as he'%ea$i» the mule the old woman who ped&le$,shot boiled yams with syrup on t£rem ,$uff.s away -at her kittle smoker. The srriall.'boys do not seem to have the habit ad'badly as they have it in Indiana. Ot'Cofrse these must be'cheap, "you will •guess, '©r .tihey Would not'be so universally us^d.' Three -cents a pack, Mexican money, Is'Oi^ly one-cent and a half of our money. Do you, wonder atevery one smoking them?

'Another pointer tbe Mexicans can give us mp jriorth. They are polite beyond raeftsjirre* When you are introduced, ••either .socially or on business^ you •mast .shake hands heartily. Frequently the-conversation is interrupted with a "Si, Sonor"'(B£e, seenyore), meaning "yes, sir," and a piagnificedt bow, which you are expected to imitate and return and when yon part, you must shake hands again, bow and say "Adios"(pronounced ad-e-ose), and if any conversation takes place after you have uttered this "farewell," then you must repeat thebowing and handshaking ^ain,a^d.act^a,U8tliketvypreal.l|idie^^ the "States" trying to say "good-bye" to each other, except that the osculation -is omitted. As my friend, Mr. Gilford, instructed me, you must never let a Mexican excel you. in politeness.

And by the way, Ed P. Gifford, vfrho left Terre Haute in 1879, is well situated in Monterrey. His thorough knowledge of Spanish and .his affable and quick business ways hawe made him very popular, not only with the English-speaking people, but with .the Mexicans. He would surprise his Terre Haute *friends if they could hear him haranguing some wealthy and influential Mexicans in their own fluent tongue, and see the power a welleducated American, who combines with it a business push and pluck, can have in a foreign country. 4 -j!

The Hotel 'Hidalgo, where we stopped, surprised its American guests by offering us a regular Thanksgiving dinner today roast turkey, cranberry sauce, saddle of venison, plum pudding and all. It was a pleasing act of the genial landlord, Senor Brown, who knew that every one of us would be homesick for the old-fashioned feast in this land of beans and goat's milk.

Monterrey has several thousand residents who are called Americans, in contradistinction to the Mexieans. Tbe influence of this American colony has been great. Telephones, Electric lights, and paved streets are here. Electric cars are not far off, although a Mexican car driver told me in pigeon-English that trolley cars could never come to Monterrey. He said the streets were too narrow and the Mexicans too slow. They won't get out of the way of the mule cars now, and continually get run over through obstinacy. The mules are driven tandem, the driver hisses to them through his teeth to urge them on, and then beats them, as all mule drivers do. He blows a whistle for the street crossings^ and when be runs over anyone the officer on that beat arrests driver, conductor and all to jail they go and lay there until the alcalde gets ready to hear about it manana (that originally meant tomorrow, but is understood to mean now any old time).

I will go-to Saltillo (call it Sal-tee-yo) and then to the City ot Mexico. Haven't seen an Associated Press dispatch for a

M. Hioorxs.

Sparsr has acceded to thedemandsof the United States in the questions growing ont of the late war, and now nothing remains but the settlement of the details of tbe peace proctocol. We are to have sovereignty of the Philippines and Porto BJco, while Spain surrenders her sovereignty of Cuba. Grave questions will arise in the final settlement of the questions now before the people, but a country that has prospered like the United States has In a little over a oentury can certainly provide for the colonies that, win become a permanent feature of the government. Senator Hoar and some other non-expan-sionists of the east mtlf insist that the majority of the people are wrong, aod that the view* of the uinority ate right, but so long as majority rule is to exist in this country they will have^o submit.

ADIOS JAMAICA!

SIXTY-MILE EXCURSION FROM KINGSTON TO MANDEVILLE. tw/

Cuba.

"i,

Tid-Bits of Information Concerning the English Island—Life In the Highlands—Mrs. Ward off Again for

Special Correspondence of The Sfall. PORT ROYAL, JAMAICA, Nov. 96.—No grass, figurative or otherwise, has grown under our feet since we set them in Jamaica. We have made journeys inland and around the edges, by railway, by carriage, in the saddle, in canoes and coasters, interviewed everybody come-at-able and religiously garnered every scrap of information but the whole month's experience dwindles to insignificance in the line of data-gathering when compared with our last week on the island. By rare good fortune we fell in with two indisputable authorities—the confidential clerk, ("dark" they call it here), of Colonial Secretary Chamberlain, and a Boston fruit-buyer, who for years has been as familiar as A. B. C. with every rod of this corner of the Queen's domain. It happened that both were going to Mandeville on the day of our excursion thereto, and the slow, sixty-mile railway ride afforded unravelled opportunities for interviewing.

Talk of women's tongues! Nothing uncorks a man's garrulity and sets it flowing in steady stream, like along day's journey through scenes which are to him familiar by repetition. As the train jolted along at an average rate of seven miles an hour, your correspondent proved herself a model compagnon de voyage—i. e., an attentive listener, silent but for an occasional judicious question and meanwhile her trusty pencil was busy, tracing short-hand quail-tracks on the margins of her guide-book. The amount of informatiod gained that day would enable me to write an encycloptedia on the West Indies in general and Jamaica in particular! While the Englishman was naturally conservative in speech and said nothing prejudicial to British methods, the trader from the land of the Stars and Stripes— who has not been doing well of late, seemed glad to unburden his mind.

It is always instructive to travel with practical people—though sometimes painful to see" nature's splendid pictures blurred by too critical' analysis. Neither of the gentlemen aforesaid discerned anything impressive in the sha&owy mountains around whose bases we were winding—"Alway Kirk," the "Scotchman's Bonnet" and other rugged peaks with Scottish names, or in the tropical valleys that lie between, and the Spanish Main on the other hand, stretching away to the horizon.'-

Visions that filled my unpractical soul with joy—of green hills marshalled in close ranks by the Master hand of towering palms and jungle forest, cocoanut groves and golden cane-fields—merely furnished them with a text for discourse on the respective merits of highland and lowland soil and the adaptability of each to certain crops. Silvery cataracts dancing down to the sea, and torrents roaring through deep, fern-fringed ravines, called forth an array of statistics on the exact measurement of the annual rainfall. Lofty bamboos, touching finger-tips over tranquil streams and mirrored in the waters below, inspired a minute account of the manifold uses of bambotf and its commercial value. Chalky patches on tbe mountain sides, where the dark jungle had been cleared away, glistening white as the eternal snows of the Andes and flecked by every passing cloud, led to a lecture on the porous properties of limestone and the exact proportion in which It should be employed in road building and so on, from the duck-hatfnted marshes that surround Kingston, through the tunnels that pierce the hill tops, and down through sun-kissed slopes on the other side.

The north coast of Jamaica is incomparably lovely, with little bays between bold bluffs, and everywhere an abundance of springs and streams. The shore is dotted with peaceful havens,—St. Ann's, Rio Bueno, Montego and Ocho Rios—each a miniature Garden of Eden, with green meadows soft as velvet, odorous groves, tangled creepers, birds, blossoms and butterflies galore. The road to Mandeville crosses the Rio Cobre, between long lines of trees standing in the water, waist deep, so to say, their lower limbs curiously decorated with clinging oysters. The Cobre river discharges itself in Kingston harbor, near Passage Fort, where the English soldiers landed in the conquest of tbe Is. land. "Rodney's Lookout," Fort Henderson, and its celebrated mineral spring, Fort Augusta, the Apostles' Battery, and the Lozearetto, or quarantine station, are in tbe immediate vicinity. The lastnamed institution lies on a tall cliff at the mouth of Kingston harbor, surrounded by twelve acres of pleasure grounds. Its faculties for fishing and sea-bathing, tennis, cricket and other amusements are s&id to reader life la quarantine a hing to be desired and we are quite willlbg to take anybody's word for it without experimental knowledge.

Then the road climbs slowly up to gracing lands, which are well stocked with fat English cattle and studded with clumps of splendid cedars, like the far famed "cedars of Lebanon." Spanish Town, the ancient capital, is passed but little of it can be seen from the car windows except the deserted state buildings. Ascending higher, the scenery becomes moreand more broken. Raging torrents are crossed by pictur-

Vi ,A'S,m1

esque bridges. Masses of hills appear to be' piled up and scattered carelessly in every direction, as if Thor's children's had been making block houses with them. Some of the hills are steep and rugged others with gently sloping sides and rounded summits and all are clothed with dense vegetation from base to crown, their sides rent with innumerable ravines, down which streams play leap-frog over mossy boulders. Then the forest is reached, where the squatters are burning out the underbrush for their yam patches. These garden farms of the highland blacks have become a distinct and not always pleasant feature. A negro secures from the government an acre or two of uncleared forest, at an almost nominal quit-rent. His first move is to set it on fire, thereby wasting the timber on a dozen acres while clearing one. Among the ashes he plants his yams and melons, and perhaps a little -i! corn growing the same crops over and over until the soil is exhausted when he secures another acre, which he treats with

the same sinful wastefulness, leaving the

Mandeville is only ten miles further on, and the road ascends all tbe way. The town was named after some Duke of Manchester, who governed Jamaica a hundred 5 years ago and, barring the prevailing complexion of its inhabitants, is as Intensely English as any village In the of the mother country Boys are playing cricket on the green there is a school whic might sit for a picture of Dotheboy's Hall, and an ivy-covered church, with a gray-haired curate watidering among the graves at the .back of it. The modest, inn has a ruddy caricature of King George on its swinging signboard and before the blacksmith's forge horses are waiting to be shod. A few English families are scattered about the neighborhood, and the ladies thereof ride on horseback, over the hills and across the fields, taking streams and hedges that come in the way in true English fashion. All the houses have open green-latticed verandas, and each prim, close-trimmed lawn rejoices in its tennis court. A large common is utilized as race course and cricket ground, with tennis courts at tbe corners, for wherever Englishmen live, there those institutions are sure to be. A lawn tennis club meets in the village once a week. The la/lies who do not come 'cross-lots in the saddle ride thereto in their pony chaises and they make tea under the trees, all ss "English" as possible. Nearly everybody hereabouts raises his own coffee, meat, fruit, poultry, fruit, vegetables—in short everything he eats and uses and the women are notaole housewives whose tea cakes, salads and preserves are things long to be remembered.

Mandeville is the center of a large district, the best and most healthful portion of Jamaica, famed for the excellence of its fruits and the sleek cattle on its grazing grounds. The red soil is mixed with crumbled lumps of white coral, a readymade and inexhaustible compost. The temperature at this elevation Is always at least ten degrees below than that at Kingston, nevercoldand never oppressively hot. Yellow Jock is as much a stranger here as Jack Frost, and the droughts which so often parch tbe lowlands are unknown among tbe hilltops, where rain falls the year aronnd. Riding about the neighborhood, you are mote and more charmed with it. Gum tries, almonds, mangoes and cedars spread their shadows overall tbe roads, and great silk-cotton trees tower skyward In lonely magnificence—the haunts of the dreaded "duppies," or ghosts, who—so tbe negroes believe—would wreak awful vengeance upon any mortal who would dare strike an axe into the sacred stems. Ail around are wooded slopes, with white*walled villas among orange and coffee groves, groups of palms, wind-mills and sugar factories and far beyond, the highest mountain range looks blue as the, sky against which It seems to lean. a

Consulting the marginal notes made on this journey to Mandeville—thanks to my two well-posted travelling companions— I am able to give you tbe following reliable information. Tbe property tax on farm lands in Jamaica, cultivated for sugar, coffee grain, etc., is six cents the acre for inferior land, two cents. Merchants pay a tax of sixty dollars a year shopkeepers, and newspaper proprietors only *7.50 per annum. Five daily newspapers are published in Kingston, besides three weeklies, two semi-weeklies, seven monthlies, three fortnigbtlies and a (cojrrmuED ok fourth page,}

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first to go back to scrub. Finally Porus is reAched—an odd old town whose name reminds yon of plasters. How it came by such a cognomen I do not know, unless it be a relic of Spanish occupancy. If so, it is about the only title which has survived the English ownership of the island. Columbus had a companion, you know, whose name was Porus. The Spaniards called nearly everything after their beloved Saintstowns, rivers, churches, streets and rumshops and Cromwells' Puritan soldiers religiously \abolished them all in favor of ..." the names of sinners, like King George. To-day the Englishmen revel in such unsentimental nomenclature as Hog's Back, ., Bog Walk, Snake Dam, etc. Porus is a thousand feet above the sea in a hollow where three valleys meet. The railway has brought some business to the hamlet, and you see cabs, mule-carts and wagons waiting at its depot and catch glimpses of streets and shops and comfortable-looking houses, surrounded by a wide outer fringe of cane shanties but so far as faces y|l are concerned, all in sight are of African blackness—not a white or light-colored^ a