Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 28, Number 49, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 4 June 1898 — Page 2
THE STOUT PERSON.
IVHAT SHE MAY WEAR TO CONCEAL HER SIZE.
She Should Stick to Black, Avoid Flounces and Corset* and Affect Shirrinp, Point* and PrinceM Cos tames—Sarpllce
Wnlst* and LOOM Sleeve* Best For Her.
The very »toat woman never seems to have learned how to dress herself in such away as to make the best of her affliction and at least appear less heavy and cumbersome. The poor soul is so uncomfortable, so red, so awkward and unwieldy that she impresses those who see her with a sense of her discomfort. She has the mistaken idea that she must lace tightly to "get a waist,'' and her corsets are of the ironclad and steel riveted variety and warranted to give along waisted effect
The effect is not all that the wearer fondly desired, for the overplus adipose tissue is pressed upward and downward, forming astonishing protuberances destructive to all grace or beauty. These misguided stout ladies have their bodices made tight and smooth, and if any trimming at all is put on it is almost sure to be something that but accentuates the defects.
Seeing all these things, let us review the matter a little and see if a plan cannot be devised that will give the stout woman a little grace and a good deal more of comfort than she has known over since she began to "take on flesh."
In the first place, and above all things, the stout woman should not wear tight, stiff corsets. If she must have some sustaining medium, then a pair of low, loose corsets may be worn, but she is
LATK SPRING OOWN8.
better olT and slimmer without them. Lot lu nudergariuonts bo joined and nil flarta, etc., set upon thin linen yokes mid arranged to button to the eciv cover. This leaves all the superi:r.oun flesh to fall to a natural position. Tin. a ec r.iOH the dresa Tlio princess back v/itli a lroso front falling from the neck civil he!ted loosely with a fancy chain belt cr tow and cuds of ribbon is really tho niokt graceful, and, if one may use thr word in this connection, belittling rF nil fiowus But this is only suitable Icr bon, i\ for tea gown or negligee, and thero i:nn bo something for tho street and something for drossy requirements.
Black goods have tho faculty of apparently diminishing tho size and light ones of adding to it. A stout lady in light gray looks positively elephantine. Black satin probably has a better effect than any other material. Thero are enough black goods this season and planned for next season to lit out all the stout ladies and leave some for the thin ones too.
They begin with calico at 6 to 15 cents a yard and eud with splendid Irish poplins at $5 to $? a yard. Satin and all tho smooth surfaced goods in black are bettor than figured or rough stuffs. Brocades, bayaderes and plaids should be avoided, but lengthwiso stripes are well, as they give apparent, height. Long, unbroken lines give slendemess.
Tho skirt, when trimmed at all, is better with tho pointed folds or tucks or lino of narrow braid. The point Bhould come directly in front, and the bodico should have a sharp point in the middle, toward which any trimming ought to tend. All waists where folds or gathers are brought down to the point in front and back are becoming to tho stout, figure, as they hide that tell"tale curve between the bust and the high stomach.
Napoleon, we are told, had his coat cut away shapely in front in an inverted with a vest coming to a poiut be* tween. The double point has something in its favor for stout ladies, too, but the pointed bodice is tho easiest to make and manage and is quite as becoming.
The collar of a stout lady's gown should be high and flaring in the back and sides so as to afford the appearance of length. Ono modiste showed me a waist just finished for a very stout lady. This collar was cut down on to the very shoulder and then draped and trimmed in up and down shirrs so that it made the wearer's neck look quite as long as the law governing such things requires. Tho eye was so deceived by the cleverness of the trimming that one never thought to note how much wider it was aromnd the bottom than at the top.
Shirriugs in narrowing lines starting at the top of a waist or blouse apparently reduce the size, but the stout lady does not look pretty in ft blouse or Spanish flounce.
To get the Spanish flounce skirt just right tbo upper part of the skirt must fit tho figure like a glove. This throws the hips into undue prominence and it not a desirable thing, so the stout lady would do well to hare her skirts loose enough around the body to fall in folds rather than to be stretched tightly. A three-quarter basque with a rather straight rest effect is desirable for street oosfomea. One of the best devices in skirts for the ovonrtout woman Is the skirt with a wrinkled front drapery. Them few wrinkles, starting from each
side and thrown forward, break the smoothly drawn front into lines of easy grace.
In some cases surplice waists look well on stout ladies, and a full princess with the front draped across diagonally is really a charming thing. The narrow sleeve must not be too tight fitting. If it is, it reveals the exact proportion of the arm, while a looser sleeve would really hide its size, and one would think of the sleeve and not the arm. Sharp, high caps are good in that they give broadness to the shoulders and in comparison make the waist seem smaller.
The stout woman should not wear belts or wide buckles, and she should avoid the Spanish flounce and all roundabout trimming like the measles. But flounces of narrow, light stuff, put on in a festoon low in front and high in the back, and all upright and pointed trimmings are suitable and make the stout look slender.
HJENKIETTK ROUSSEAU.-
THE NEW WOMANl
What Beat Impression Are Feminine Clubs Making on Their Time?
Fifteen years ago the newspapers ignored women's clubs. Masculine editors thought the doings of these organizations were so trivial as not to be worth mentioning and women who belonged to clubs deserved to be sat upon and silenced anyhow. Well, that is changed. Reporters are now sent regularly to the meetings of women's clubs and columns are devoted to them. No woman can longer complain that no report of the doings of her society can be got into the newspapers. But what are women clubs doing? They meet, they read papers, they elect officers, they dress in the latest fashion, they have exciting canvasses and campaigns, they even blackball candidates sometimes. All this experience is useful. It teaches women parliamentary usage it makes them claw and criticise one another less intercourse with one another rubs off the wire edges and the bristles of those who .otherwise never would have tried to control their tempers. In order to get on at all in a club it is necessary for us to be at least moderately generous and kindly toward one another. They have asocial eclat, these women'scluba The ladies crack their brains and electioneer to get themselves elected president or secretary or something so they will be thought somebody, But of the deeper, sweeter experiences of humanity, of that intense, finer, higher development to get which the soul was sent to this earth, how much of these do the women's clubs foster? Of that enthusiasm which thrills a human being through and through till he is ready to give his life for a great causo and devote all his powers to it, how much of this is awakened in ladies' clubs? I do not know. Without such enthusiasm, without uplifting aims and desiro for something bettor than more clothes, offices, tea drinkings, receptions, newspaper mention and the like, I do know, though, that the doings and sayings of all the women's clubs in America are the mere crackling of thorns under a pot. I have read somewhero in tho writings of an old Brahman that peoplo in general were liko monkeys running hither and thither in a palm forest. What is this life with only the aim of the average human being to get more money, to get social distinction, to pamper up his perishable body with good clothes and delicate viands—what more is it than the life of a monkey in a palm forest? In heaven's namo what real difference will it make whether you or somebody else is president of that club?
In Chicago there is a woman surgeon who is rapidly rising to more than local distinction. Mrs. Augusta Siogmund, a lady of German birth, studied medicine after she was married. She had a natural gift for handling the scalpel. She knew by a strange, intuitive faculty where to striko and what the trouble waa It seems sometimes almost like a second sight the skill she shows in diagnosing obscure surgical cases. The professors at her college were amazed and delighted at her expertness with the shining steel instruments. They advised her to make a specialty of surgery. She has now a lucrative practice. The most difficult and delicate cases are sent to her by physicians who feel that they themselves have not the skill or nerve to undertake the operations. ''1
I have read lately ft poem which speaks of how woman since the world began in regard to her love for man has always "bargained and bartered and lost and been glad of the loss." What a mean, slave soul the woman has who could write or think such a thought!.
There is a lamentable lack in the training of our young men. In all the education they get there is not a single course of study that prepares them for fatherhood. We recommend the endowment at Yale and Harvard of a professorship to train young men to be fathers. What good for a man to be an expert lawyer or civil engineer if he knows nothing about his God given mission to be a father. The raising of a fund for the endowment of such a professorship would be a noble work for those amiable old ladies of both sexes who are trying to stop the emancipation of women.
The ftuasy trifling of women in many of their clubs reminds one of children playing with dolls.
Choose your task, whether running an engine or doing housework, and than go on and accomplish it without any fuss. Do what you want to do and don't cockle over it
v-
It has been suggested that boys be taught to do housework and girls be taught the use of tools as an addition to the education of both. Boys who can make beds, swfeep and wash dishes will not be apt to look down ai
L*. 'it» *,
Abchard Oasrcnot.
v'Vv
PHILIPPINE WOMEN.
WHAT OUR DUSKY SISTERS IN THE ORIENT ARE LIKE.
How They Dress and Live and Some of Their Physical and Mental Characteristics—They Are Expert Needlewomen and
Skillful Workers In Silk.
While the distinctions separating the various social grades of native women in the Philippine islands are less marked than in more civilized countries there are racial characteristics which differentiate them more strongly than could be possible among a more homogeneous people. Those of Malay origin, the vast majority in the islands, however they may differ as to wealth and intelligence, converge to a general type even in their dress, but the Negritos, supposed to be the aborigines of the is-
A WOMAN OF LUZON.
lauds, are essentially different in appearance, language, manners and dress from the others.
The Negrito women belong to a vanishing race, which is doomed to rapid extinction. The native women of Malay origin are much more interesting. They possess many characteristics in common with their sistqrs„ in more civili countries, 8L.
Some of those articles give evidence of wonderful delicacy of touch, as also of artistic taste, which places them on a par with the best of the kind produced by the Chinese or Japanese.
Even the best educated and wealthiest of the native women pay little regard to European fashions in dress. They prefer the simplicity of their own costumes, which are not only more suitable for the climate, but are really more artistic. Tho dress of the mestizos, the offspring of white fathers and native women, consists of a long skirt of heavy silk and a waist and neckerchief made of the fibers of the pineapple plant and embroidered with white silk, linen or cotton. This costume is calculated to enhance the attractiveness of the face and neck, and the reputation for beauty which the mestizo women have is perhaps partly owing to the manner in which they are draped.
As in all countries there are of course marked divergencies from the highest type in the Philippine islands. Many of the women, especially in the lower ranks of life, are very unattractive. They have high cheek bones* ugly browp feces, badly developed figures and full, thick lips. The only redeeming feature about these is their eyes, which are almost invariably expressive and often beautiful. But even among the uneducated and undertribes numbers of the young men and women are strikingly handsome. Among the inferior grades of society, and not rarely even among the superior, large families are quite common.
There are often as many as 20 children in a household, and an average family contains about 15 boys and girla Every family has its own house, but it costs little, and for $5 a newly married couple can provide themselves with a large and superior bamboo hut, which is ample for all their requirements and for thsir prospective numerous progeny. Clothing costs but little, and little of it is required, while the tropical luxnriousness and productiveness of the islands supply food with the minimum at labor.
The people of the Philippine islands are undoubtedly capable of attaining a high degree of civilization. They are imaginative and prone to superstition, but have intellectual capacity, artistic proclivities and an eager desire for knowledge. Nothing Spanish ii^opular —neither its rule, language nor dress. Bad wMPlfrini civilisation appealed to the natives through a different medium the result woold doubtless be more nl ataxy.
*y
TiSRRE HAUTE SATUltHAY IfiVJSyLN(* MAIL,, JUSTE 4, 1898,^
native
In Manilla and other cities women are often rich, well educated and of marked beauty. Even in other sections whire females do not possess equal advantages beauty is not so rare among them as to be a subject of comment. Compared with tho men the superiority of the women of the Philippine islands is noteworthy. They show it in their faces and manners, and the difference is still more marked in their speech. They are as a rule modest, industrious, eager to acquire knowledge and make excellent wives and house servants. They are almost invariably expert with tho needle, display fine artistio taste and learn music with remarkable facility.
Some years ago sowing machines were introduced into the islands, and in a short time the nativo women learned to run them as well as their white sisters. An excellent seamstress can be. secured for 26 cents a day, and nearly every European family has one. They live in their own homes—little nipa huts, with two or three rooms—and work from 8 a. m. to about 6 p. m. Large numbers of the native women work alBO in the tobacco factories and other manufacturing establishments, while many occupy themselves at home by making toys, fancy articles and embroidery for the shops.
fs \J GI-uwb LA Toctl
CLOTH 1^ FOR CHILDREN,
Amr and Davy Styles Show the Universal War Spirit. [Special Correspondence.]
NEW YORK, May SO.—When mothers begin to plan for a trip to the country, they begin to think of the clothes their little ones are to wear, and as that time is now near perhaps a few mothers will thank me for some hints as to the new and "comfy" styles for children. If only a few do, I shall feel that I have not lived in vain. First and foremost come the patriotic devices in the making and trimming of hats and little costumes. Sailor hats have bands of tricolored ribbon around the crown, tied in a close bow, with ends hanging nearly to the shoulder. Some have three inch ribbon, which is printed or woven to suggest a
OUTING COATS FOR CHILDREN.
constant relay of flags. These are used for hat trimming, neckties, sashes and many other things. Wherever they can be put on any costume for a small girl or boy they are set there. I saw one rosebud of a dimpled baby with a sash of flag ribbon and tiny bows on the shoulders and cap. The most of these sash flag ribbons have satin faces, There are heavy belts for tiny boys, whose patriotism would surely swell their little bosoms to bursting if not judiciously restrained by these strongly woven belts of red, white and blue. I might go on all day and yet not tell half the glories of tho flag devices and ac cessories. Many suits for growing girls are of dark blue serge or cravanette, withered and white trimming. I never thought the movement would be so general, nor did the manufacturers of the national colors in ribbons, for it is al roost impossible, they say, to .supply the demand.
Sailor suits for small boys are nearly all made with the wide, long legs. Nothing but the knowledge that he is in a small way "remembering the Maine'' would induce a boy to submit to thos^ uncomfortable flapping trousers. Dark blue flannel is the regulation sail or suit, but for warm weather there is no end of white duck and canvas suits, blouse and trousers, with a pea jacket for cool evenings and a rain overcoat of covert. This, with its detachable cape and its gilt U. S. N. buttons, is a most desirable thing. The poor little girls axe debarred from the CJ. S. N. costume, but they can have sailor jackets of blue, with lovely gilt buttons and red bars across the front of the white waist. The deep sailor collar may be faced with white or embroidered with any device in keeping with the costume.
Girls can have plaid waterproof coats or plain cravanette, tho underpart made like a dress, with the cape in military shape. Tho coloring for all these is always subdued in tone. Indeed children's garments, except those for dress occasions, are generally rather dark, which saves laundry bills when away from homa A handy little garment for a tot of 4 is a short jacket of no particular shape, gaining its sole distinction by its deep sailor collar, with its naval emblems and its shining brass buttona Such a navy as wears those cunning little jackets would be invincible in peace and unconquerable in war.
Pretty empire coats for girls from 8 to 12 are made of tan whipcord, covert, cravanette and cloth. Folds are laid from the neck to the bottom, and over the shoulders there are straps stitched to points and set with smoke pearl buttons. Indeed garniture of these buttons is considered extremely neat and stylish for light capes, jackets and many gowns for outing. All collars lie flat. For a dear little chubby morsel of dimpledom of a year there is a cunning little coat of soft moss green cashmere. It is gathered to a square yoke and has bishop sleeves. The garment opens at the left side, the closing being hidden under a quaint, slashed collar. This as well as the cuffs is bordered with a braid of silver edged with rose pink. Just this shade of green brings out the exquisite delicacy of a child's complexion better than anything else. Some use farmer satin, others the soft qualities of silks, for small children's coats, but I think nothing prettier than cashmere.
The list of wash goods for little ones' wear is too great to undertake to give in detail, but mothers will make no mistake in buying the strong linen goods. They come in patterns dainty enough for childhood, while being absolutely fadeless. The best of all the percales and prints will fade with repeated washing, and only the very best qualities of gingham are worth making up for children at all, and they are quite expensive. V"
White frocks, with pretty ribbon sashes, made with full gathered waists and sleeves, are really the best of all for little ones, though they do soil easily, and in a large establishment given np entirely to children's garments (me finds more white dresses for very small children than colors. Worn with short red, bine or green jackets they always look dressy and dainty and childlike, and what could ooe ask more than that?
OLZVS HABPKB.
Tf—infiBiiitta Hnmwom TWM. Massachusetts claims to have mesne different kinds of native trees than has soj kingdom of Eoropei The exutftwr exceeds SO, ammag them being nine luge oska.^
mm.
It Was Scrofula
Medjcines Drove the His Eyes
HaaHC
Humor to
& &
Hood's Sarsaparilla Eradicated the Disease from His System. Eruptions appeared on my little boy's shoulder and face. The effect of the medicines prescribed lor him was to drive the humor from his face and shoulder to his eyes, which became badly inflamed. The more medicine he took the more the humor spread. We read so much of what Hood's Sarsaparilla had done for others we decided to try it. He began taking it and we persevered in its use and after a while the eruptions began to disappear, and finally the flesh was all healed over* From that time there haB been no return of the scrofula." MKS. CYBUS DOUB, Silver Lake, Indiana. Remember
Sarsa- $ pariila
Hood's
Is the best—in fact the One True Blood Purifier. Sold by all drugists. Price, $1 six for $5.
DllSc
are 4116 1)68,1 after_dlnlier
flood S fills pills, aid digestion. 250.
Health is Wealth.
IRV
TREATMENT
DA. E. C. WEST'S
NERVE AND BRAIN TREATMENT
THE ORIGINAL, ALL OTHERS IMITATIONS, Is soldunder positivo Written Guarantee, bjr authorized agents only, to cure Weak Memora, Dizziness, Wakefulness, Fits, Hysteria, Quickness, Night Losses, Evil Dreams, Lack of Gonfi. denoe,Nervousness,Lassitude, all Drains, Youthful Errors, or Excessivo UPO of Tobacco, Opium, or Liquor, which leads to Misery, Consumption, Insanity and Death. At store or by mail, $1 a irnntce to iple packment, with ft instructions, 25 cents. Cine sample only
box six for $5 with 'writtenjfoarantee
to
core or refund money. Sam. aye, containing fivo days treatment, with full sold to
p. »n ,tr
ipl
each person. At store or by mail. Red Label Special Extra Strength. vTfeF F°r Impotency, Loss of fo'f 'TW Power, Lost Manhood,
Sterility or Batrennef 41 a box six for $5, wi "written .jcuarante to cure in ftraays. At etoi
fi&PORcor by mail. Geo. W. J. Hoffman, successor to Gulick & Co., solo aeent, cor. Wabash ave. and Fourth St., Terre Haute.
50 YEARS* EXPERIENCE
TRAOK
MARKS
DESIGNS
.... COPYRIGHTS AC.
Anyone sending a sketch
and
description may
quickly ascertain our opinion free whether an Invention Is probnbly patentable. Communiontions strictly confidential. Handbook on I atento sent free. Oldest agency for securing patents.
Patents taken throutrh Munn & Co. receive special notice, without chnrae, In the
Scientific American.
A handsomely illustrated weekly. I,nreent circulation of any scientific Journal. Terms, W a year four months, $1. Sold by all newsdealers.
MUNN & Co.36iBroadway- New York
Branch Office. 625 St., Washington, D. C.
Ask
your
Druggist
for a generous io CENT TRIAL SIZE.
Ely's Cream Balm
Itopens and cleanses the Nasal Pas-
sages. Allays In-
CATARRH
MMBA!
^jWfEVEH
contains no cocaine, mercury nor any other injurious dm#.
It is quickly absorbed. Gives relief at once.
COLD 'N HEAD
flammatlon. Heals and protects the Membrane. Restores the Senses of Taste and Smoll. Full Size 50c. Trial Size 10c. at Drug56 Warren St.. New York.
gists or by mall. ELY BROTHERS,
REMOVAL
J. A. Nisbfct, Undertaker
Has moved his store to
103 N. FOURTH ST.
One door north of Cherry St. ^i
",5
ir
r*
aC?-1
A Gas Tip!
Purchase at the rate of 2c worth of gas a day, for each room, do away with coal, ashes, smoke and dirt, and proceed at once .to CLEAN HOUSE.
GAS .COMPANY
507 Ohio Street.
STOPPED FREE PsrsraMotly Cand
•L KLINE'S UUr
IERVE RESTORER
krUI Jbiwnww, rmmfDmt 1. JTrwrtfr*—aWtjialbtq*
tr—*»THr mi,i
AMUEL M. HUSTON wmm
An Honest Corset Talk
There are degrees of excellence in Corsets, as in everything else. Some are simply
Wood, others fere better, rbut— ||i||
Thrti
Cresc Corset
Is Best.
The mere assertion o{ this fact unbacked by
proof, might fail to carry
conviction hence the following: Cresco Corsets Cannot Break at the Waist Line.
All old style corsets possess this most nnnoying weakness. Not a woman in your community but will acknowledge the truth of this statement.
By a disconnection at the *.vnlst line, nml elastic gores at sides, the cause of breakage is removed, and at the same time the Corset retains its symmetrical proportions Being convinced of its superiority over other corsets we introduce It to the buying public. When next you buy a Corset try the CRESCO.
THE MICHIGAN CORSET CO.,
GEO. W. AUSTIN, Manager,
JACKSON, MICHIGAN. Call at
B. ROOT & CO'S
and ask to be shown the "CRESCO.'
Established 18«l. Incorporated 1888
Olift & Williams Co.,
Successors to Gil ft. Williams & Co.,
MANCFA0TUKKK8 OF
Mi, Doors, Blinds, Etc.
AND DEAI.KH8 IN
Lumber, Lath, Shingles, Glass, Paints, Oils
AND BUILDERS' HARDWARE, Mulberry St., Oor. Ninth. J. H. WILLIAMS. President,.
J. M. CMFT, Sec'y and Treas
WANTED
BOTH MEN AND WOMEN.
If-ou
are will I up to work, wo can (five you employment with GOOD PAY. and you can work all or part time, and at home or traveling. Tho work is Ll6llT AND EASY. WRITE AT ONCE for terms, etc., to
The Hawks Nursery Company,
MILWAUKEE. WIS.
HARDING & PLOQSTED
GENERAL FURNITURE REPAIRING. UPHOLSTERING, MAT It ESSES. 1102 Wttbash Avenue., near Eleventh.
Tkhkk IIAUTK, IND,
All Orders Executed Promptly.
Dr. Coi F. Aslmm
announces removal to his new ofllees, llotrns- 114-115 ORAND OPERA HOUSE 8 to it mornings. 1 to 4 afternoons. 7 to 1) evenings.
TERRE HAUTE
JpilANK D. KICH, M. D.
Office and Residence 216 N. Sixth St. TERRE HAUTE, IND. Diseases of Eye, Ear, Noso and Throat. Hours—9 to 12 a. m., 1:30 to 4 p. m. Sundays 9 to 10 a. m.
We mine our own coal. First-class for all Domestic Use. Furnace trade solicited Prices very reasonable. 'Phone 303.
J. N. & GEO. BROADHURST,
Office, 122 South Third.
ART
Gagg's
Store
Artists' Supplies, Flower Material. Picture Framing a Specialty.
28 SOUTH SIXTH. East Side.
Terre Haute, Ind,
JOHN M. VOLKERS, ATTORNEY. Collections and Notarial Work.'
581 OHIO STREET.
fSAAO BALL & SON, FUNERAL DIRECTORS,
Cor. Third and Cherry streets, Terre Haute Ind., are prepared to execute ail orders in their line with neatness and dispatch.
Embalming a Specialty.
N. HICKMAN, j' TrisrjDiBiR'X'-AKrmila
1212 Main Street.
All calls will receive the most careful attention. Open day and night.
5
ISI®
Public.
Rooms 2 and StTH Wabash arenne. Tele-
Si see#
r-
C. F. WILLIAMS, D. D. S.
DENTAL PARLORS,
Corner Sixth and Main Street*.
TEBRE HAUTE. IND.
A Handsome Complexion
is oaeof thegrewtect charms a woman can pomw. foMoi i's OounmxtoM Puwomm giTMtt.
mmm