Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 28, Number 43, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 23 April 1898 — Page 3

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HER COLLAR AND TIE

THE MORE MANNISH THEY LOOK THE SMARTER THEY ARE.

Fall Vest Fronts and How They Are Used Most Effectively Capes 8ach as Our Grandmothers Wore Are In the Mode

Once Again.

[Copyright, 1898, by the Author.] If any one who reads this remembers having noticed that some of the very "smart set" walk wiih their noses deoidedly tiptilted, ho or she may under stand the reason when the new collars are described. The poor dudes will not be the only objects of commiseration now, for the linen collars to be worn with tailor suits and with shirt waists

K3P

NECKWEAR FOR WOMEN.

well are as high as oan be foroed in between the wishbone and chin. Some of them, I believe, mast measure at least four inches wide, and they are as stiff as armor plates. I really pity those who feel themselves forced to wear them.

There are some for stout ladies, whose necks cannot be lengthened without shortening their lives, and these are just plain chokers not over 1£ inches high. They fasten to the band of the shirt waist or other costume, and a neat tie just like those of the men goes around them and falls in front. Some of the ties are arranged to tie in puffs, others in sailor knots and still others in four-in-hand, ascot or derby style. Others are made very long and are brought twice around the collar and fastened in front. The nearer they look like those Worn by men the hotter tbey are liked.

The greater number of the cravat ties aro plaided, great black and white oheoks being muoh affected. The turndown collars afford opportunity for many novel arrangements of neckwear. The plaid and striped ribbon ties are deeply fringed and brought around once and tied in front in a bow or a regular cravat knot. With these the fine sheer ties are also seen at their best. Some of those are really beautiful and have insets and rufUed ends of fine laoe. They add a touch of feminine lightness to a somber costume. Some very fanoy arrangements have a stook of white or black, with cravat ends of some brilliant color, like cerise, emerald, pervenche blue, pink or red.

There is no limit to the different varieties of these ties. Every kind of material is used—that is, all the laces, mulls, silks and velvets. Pervenohe blue for the stock and white silk mull for the rest make a beautiful tie "for nioo." Black velvot for a stook and plaid silk for the tie aro stylish. White piquo stock and aooordion plaited pink silk muslin are duiuty. Long scarfs of white silk mull or cbiffonette have several tiny gaufferings of alternate black and bluo or pink crepe lisse along the ends. These are very dressy.

There are very many full vest fronts mado fastened to the stook, to be worn with open jackets and blouses. These may be and often are of taffeta or even satin and in auy color or design preferred. Tho prettiest, however, are those made of mousseline de soio, liberty silk or finely puffed or ruflled ohiffon over some silk lining. Some of these are xnado to be worn over a waist to simulate a vest. A very neat and pretty idea iB shown in a stock and bow. A pretty plaid or madras or japanese handkerohief is cut so as to give the bias part from one point to another. This is out to go on a stock foundation folded once or twice. The two triangular pieces formed by the oorner pieoes left are plaited up into ears and fastened in tho center with tho scraps left from the end of tho bias piece. It makes a very neat and natty tie to wear over a rather somber gown. The colors are always bright. There are very pretty tinted batiste handkerohiefs with lace edges

HIT CATKS TOR SPRING.

among the newest of such wear, and these, when largee enough, are ray dainty arranged in this style.

Ruches are also shown novelties to sew in the neoks of dresses. Tbey are of Hsse and always becoming. Some of them hare a row of feather edged ribbon on the upper edge.

I will mention only the long veil soarf tie, which is of fine white net with raffled ends, and the new veil, which is a simple half moon of black set, scalloped along the edge. A line of delicate black silk traoery is arranged on it so as to encircle the fact*.

Tho straw bats best liked are as rough and lumpy as an alligator's back, bat the oolors are in surprising shades.

The pink, green, yellow blue and lilac ahados are all of the lisntest, brightest kind. There are plaid straws also. All these are rough and coarse and are loaded down with all kinds of flowers, ribbon lace and feathers. No one need go nnsuited. (japes for spring are more like the mantles our grandmothers wore than anything else. Shawl shaped wraps of heavy silk are liked. Light brocades are made up with black lace trimming. One style bad a yellow silk lining with black cbantilly over it. A ruffle was made all around of checked striped taffeta ribbon. Many have long tabs others are scarcely more than shoulder capes with lace or chiffon ruffles. All have high collars. This frame for the face brings out its best features and hides its defects therefore it wiH be with us for some time yet.

'44

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HENHIETTE ROCIMKAUL

THE USE OF A SCREEN.

How It May Be Arranged to Gain Artistic Effects.

Perhaps there is no artiole of furniture that so lends itself to usefulness and effect as the screen. And everybody can have one. Screens range in price from a few cents to hundreds of dollars. They Are made just as prettily with painted wooden frames and paper panels as with handsomely carved wood, embossed satin, velvet and oloth.

But it is one thing to have a screen and another to know how to dispose it. And your screen if not properly disposed may look very much in the way, for screens are not used now to cover up imperfeotions in room landscape alone. Besides being simply useful a screen may be put to ornamental and expressive purpose. How to display furniture to bespeak a certain atmosphere requires the utmost skill and thought of any decorator. So will it require thought on your part to make the best use of your screen.

The useful purpose of the screen is to hide oorners the artistic, to make them. You may hide an untidy place or you may partially disclose an inviting one with a screen. Try placing one panel like an arm pointing out a pretty corner or a cozy chair or half hiding the luxurious depths of one. Let three panels inclose almost completely a dainty desk, open and provided with every convenience of desk craft, and the fourth panel jut out directingly toward a dining or little breakfast or supper room with its round table white clothed and laden.

One of the latest and most beautiful effects in household furnishing was made in this way just midway between

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UTILIZING A SCREEN.

parlor and dining room. To the right of the double curtained doorway in the parlor stood the screen. It had a black frame, crimson panels bare of relief save for an upper border of chrysanthemums in faint pinks and yellows and an occasional drooping vine. Three panels inolosed an ebony desk, dead finish. It was open and completely serviced with pearl inkstand, desk weights, pearl handled pens, pencils pearl knobbed, paper knives of pearl, all lying on the crimson inlaid cloth for the hand. A chair upholstered in orimson with ebony back stood half turned as though the occupant had left it invitingly ready for use again. The fourth panel of the orimson screen crushed the ourtains slightly aside and pointed to the dining room with its daintily clothed and dished table.

The walls of this room were upholstered in orimson velours. The dinner service oomprised old blue china and silver. The atmosphere of warmth obtained by the judicious handling of orimson was enthralling. The dining room seemed to infold and inclose you and be robbed of all the coldness which an eating apartment so often gives on first entrance.

This decorative scheme might be followed out in muoh simpler style. If you do not adopt orimson velours for your dining room, paper with dull pinks, warm buffs, salmons, browns, bat keep off the oold blues and greens.

Screens make good backgrounds. An artist friend has a black screen embossed with gold. Against it she tilts her latest fat cushion, plaoes in its folds her handsome floor vase, her prettiest behind one half opened arm or her latest daub on a dainty easel. I saw a very lovely and simply obtained effect with a fourfold oopper oolor satin screen. It inolosed a jardiniere stand and a plant with luxuriant green leaves.

One of the most beautiful late satin screens had a groundwork of dull ecru to match the carved oak frame and a hand painted upper border of drooping purple wistaria. The folds of the screen held oddly a pair of blue blaok cloisonne enamel vases with iris decoration and storks in varying positions.

The paper screen of a few years ago ooet as much as a well embroidered oloth one does today. Frames of laoquer, bamboo and even oarved wood are sold for moderate prices. A blaok cloth screen with bold embroidery of Japanese design, storks or chrysanthemums in gold relief is a favorite for ordinary and every season use. It wears well, it bar* mooises well, it looks rich.

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OUTING COSTUMES

Steamer oloaks shag Id be warm and long, and a cape is added for extra warmth on very cold days. This is de-

DOLMAN WRAP AND TRAVELING CLOAK.

taobable. A hood is also one of the component parts of a traveling cloak. This oan b8 of any shape preferred and should be lined with silk of pome suitable color. This season, while plaid is so v&y fashionable, a plaid lining would not be amiss. Many of these long wraps are lined throughout with red farmer satin, cape and all. Covert suiting with a plaid undersurfaoe is another material well liked for traveling garments, and it is not so heavy as the lined ones or so warm. Cravanette is also good for ooean travel, as it is waterproof, while handsome as serge, There are long ulsterettes of plaid twill in dark greens and blues or greens and browns or some equally unobtrusive oolors. These are out princess shape in the baok and with straight fronts, generally double breasted. Olose sleeves there are to keep the arms warm and oapes over them.

One very handsome model wits of browns and drabs and cut as I have said. The cape was divided in the back and held down the side seams by straps whioh ended in loops under buttons. The collar was flat, and bias half

were placed over the shoulder. Tikis garment was lined with oardinal farmer's satin. It was one of those garments adapted for railroad and for street wear on occasion and not so heavy as the tweeds and cheviots.

Dolmans are appearing more often. Those with snug backs ending under a large bow of ribbon and with long tabs in front are preferred. Dark brooades, light silks with blaok laoe spread smoothly over them and all lace are seen in the short capes. Speaking of lace reminds me of a dress shown in a famous store today. The gown itself was of oa det blue silk, and all over it was stretched an upper skirt of black ohantilly. Just at the knees begun a series of narrow black laoe ruffles, eaoh headed by a very narrow gauffering of white chiffon. These ruffles were spaced apart just the width of the lace to the bottom. The waist was in the same general style, lace over the silk, with a vest piece of white chiffon shirred and puffed as full as it could be. Silk muslin, mull and ohiffonette are as popular as they were for all sorts of ruffs and plaited ruffles and are equally in plaoe on hats or gowns or wraps.

One of the newest developments in the way of trimming is the application of ribbon sewed on flat Bowknots outline with satin ribbon on woolen goods are very effective, especially when a little ruffle of laoe is put at the ends of the ribbon and left to stand out. Waved lines and latticework of ribbon are seen on the newest gowns, both on skirts and blouses also on basques. Greek key pattern is much affected. On one gown of soft gray whipoord there was a de-

Bzssoir TRIMMED strrr A*D WHAT. sign on blouse and ddrt of two rows «f the key design interlaced. Betweso these and all along the edges ran a vermioelli design in fine soutache. Tbe ribbon was of blaok satin half an inch wide.

Among the novelties in a manufaotaring house I aw a quantity at hats for ohildren for every day made from washable grenadine. These are all odor#—blue, white, pink, nile, cardinal, turquoise and perrencbe. besides other oolors. They are almost nnomahaMe, tbey are so well staid.

TERKE HAUTE SATUEDAt J5VJ51T1N 6 MAIL, APRIL 23, 1898.

Proper Dress For Traveling and Recreation—Attractive Hats For Children.

[Special Correspondence.]

NEW YORK, April 18.—Scarcely do we realize that the winter is over before the traveling and outing costumes are placed before us. Ooean travel will, it is thought, be very heavy this year, and so the steamer cloaks are the first to be mentioned. Somehow this season there seems to be no call for blue in steamer cloaks, which is unusual. Tweed and cheviot are the materials most seen and these in light neutral tints, which show more biscuit and brown than anything else.

berthaB

OLTVS

Hum.

From generation to generation the taint of impure blood is transmitted, and in die same way the beneficial blood-purifying effects of Hood's Sar-

saparilla are spread through families. If the life stream is purified at its source, or immediately when evidence of impurity first appears, much suffering will be avoided. The beneficent work of Hood's Sarsaparilla for young women, wives, mothers and little ones of all ages has won the highest praise,

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THE NEW WOMAN.

Always Xixdude Patriotic Recitations and Songs In Entertainment Programmes.

Latelyl have attended two entertainments planned by women. The performers were nearly all women too. The programmes were somewhat able, but not varied. I was interested to see bow the average woman's mind ran when she planned a programme. There were some oomio recitations and dialogues that brought down the house. They proved beyond doubt that women have the sense of humor. There was also good singing, but it consisted of light, catchy ballads on the coming of spring and screechy love ballads in foreign tongues. The recitations were to me disappointing. If there is anything inspiring, it is to hear a handsome, cultivated woman recite a stirring poem, throwing all the verve and intensity of her nature into it. Handsome women did recite poems and prose selection at these entertainments. The selections were wearisome and discouraging to the best wishers for the sex. They were silly and sentimental enough to nauseate anybody but a girl of 16. A well known actress, a great, strong, splendid oreature, who looked as if she could fence or break a colt, win a swimming match or oarry a musket, gave a nam by pamby little fool poem about a woman who was so tired because her sweetheart did not come baok. Such trash as that is the most unwholesome stuff a woman's mind oan be fed on. The seoond seleotion she gave was of the same oharaoter, a measly, mean little thing about love—love between the sexes. That seems to be the one theme to whioh the old woman's mind is oapable of rising, not a real, steadfast, working love either, but her own false, exaggerated and slushy idea of love. Well, I observed that the men in the audiences were distinctly bored. I did not blame them. I myself was insufferably bored. Here was a grand opportunity for women, and they lost it. It is a time of dan* ger and anxiety in our beloved land. None there knew when war might be declared. The undertone of thought of every American ran on the possibility of that war. A grand, patriotic poem, a magnificent national air by the chorus of singers, would have fairly raised the roof off the house. These were not given. Remember when you have a ohurch entertainment, a club benefit or other publio exhibition to put into your programme something stirringly patriotio, something that will tell all the-world you love your country and watch her through good and ill with keen interest Women patriots are needed as muoh as men. .s r-

Almost more than any other woman I have heard of in some time do I respect Mrs. Downey of Vineland, N. J. Mrs. Downey's husband, a woodman, fell ill. She had him and her ohildren to support Mr& Downey did not weep and cling. She took her husband's ax and went to tbe forest and cut and split a good lot of cord wood. Then she harnessed up her horses and hauled it into the villaga She took some of her children along to keep them ont of mischief. She took the oord wood into Vineland to sell. The people of the plaoe naturally had so mnoh respect for her and for the pluck she showed that they bought her wood faster than she oould ont and split it.

E

I regret that Professor Charles A. Briggs, champion of free thought and honest Bible criticism, has connected himself with a denomination, the Protestant Episcopal, that is still barbarous enough to retain the word "obey" in its marriage serrioe. Even Roman Catholics do not do that.

Two ladies have written stirring poems (n the Maine disaster. They are Mrs. Ella Wheeler Wilcox and Mrs. Ella Diets Clymer.

Miss Grace Espy Batton, state superintendent of publio instruction in Colorado, is a brilliant and remarkable young woman. She was professor of sociology and English literature in a Colorado college, although sbe is now only a little past 80. When tbe ooatest for woman suffrage was on in her state, Miss Fatten, although Mill tbe college professor, entered heart and soul into tbe contest, and her eloquent speeches helped win the day. Sbe was a Democrat in politics, and her party presently called her from the professor's chair to tbe gidsr fldd.joC.thft wawriatepdsoaar

A Mother's Experience

and is another gem in its crown as America's Greatest Medicine. For illustration, please read this letter:

The end of one of my fingers began to itch and soon there was a collection oi' watery blisters under the skin, which broke and discharged a watery substance, and the flesh became inflamed around my finger nail. It kept getting worse and spread toward the knuckle. Then I began doctoring for poison, using carbolic acid for awash and putting on poultices. The sore did not get any better, however, and soon it appeared on the next finger and continued to spread. It pained me so much I could not do my housework, was given a prescription for salt rheum, but found it hurt my nursing baby and 1 stopped taking it. The disease then appeared around the nails on every one of my fingers and my Buffering was terrible. I could not attend to my boy and was advised to wean him, but I hesitated about this as he was puny and hia digestion was poor. At this time I concluded to try Hood's Sarsaparilla and Hood's Pills. Before 1 had finished the first bottle of Hood's Sarsaparilla I could see a difference tajmy boy he was more

America's Greatest Medicine, because it cares when all others fail. Be sore to get Hood's.

or tbe publio schools of tfie state. She was also indorsed by the silver Republicans of Colorado. She made a magnificent address at the national woman suffrage convention in Washington. As superintendent of public iftstructiou in Colorado Miss Patton is also a member of the state boards of school examiners, of education and of publio lands.

Mrs. Sara Steenberg is a director and manager of farmers! institutes in Illinois.

Miss Elizabeth K. Reynolds of Springfield, Ills., is a young lyric poet who has obtained recognition from tbe beginning of her career. A little book of her poems lately published has been welcomed in away that must give her many a pleasing "thrill."

'Miss Estelle Reel, superintendent of instruction in Wyoming, is said to have the most businesslike and best conducted office in the state.

^sit seems that women have nothing to hope for from tbe Episcopal church anywhere. Let them act accordingly and get out of it. There are other denominations whose orthodoxy is the truest blue and whose preaohers are as oultured as those of the Episcopal following. The bishops' convocation of the ohurch of England lately decided that no women should be members of parish cburoh counoils except those who are already churchwardens and by virtue of office members of the counoils.

ELIZA ASCHARD CONNER.

It is, to say the least, wrong for anybody to go to church or public meeting, and disturb the preacher or orator by coughing. Use Dr. Bull's Cough Syrup at once.

'V' I Cod on Ash Wednesday.

Once a year, on Ash Wednesday, the Anglioans of all the middle class eat salt fish, and this salt fish is always cod. Shrove Tuesday is a kind of London fish shop festival, in which the whole of the "decoration" is salt cod and half lemons. The eod are salted in the shops, being split and very lightly but sufficiently salted, with a view to imparting flavor rather than to preserving the fish. They are then rolled loosely and elegantly and a lemon laid upon each. The origin of the lemon is diffioult to trace. Egg sauce, and not lemons, is tbe traditional "relish" with salt cod, tbe eggs being also a survival of the old Lenten list of fare. Possibly the lemons were originally part of the surplus stock laid in for the previous feast of pancakes on Shrove Tuesday.— Cornbill Magazine.

To reach the highest standard of health, nature demands the utmost regularity of the bowels. The best medicine to urge nature to do it3 du£y and give good health is Dr. Bull's Pills.

Distressing Stomach Disease Permanently cured by the masterly power of South American Nervine Tonic. Invalids need suffer no longer because this great renlledy can cure them all. It Is a cure for the whole world of stomach weakness and indigestion. The cure begins with the first dose. The relief it brings is marvellous and surprising. It makes no failure never disappoints. No matter bow long you bare suffered, your cure Is certain under tbe use of this great health-giving force. Pleasant and always safe. Sold by all druggists, Terre Haute, Ind.

Boat Tobacco Spit sad Smoke Toar life Away. To quit tobacco easily and forever, be mag netie. fall of life, nerve and vigor, take No-To-Bac, the wonder-worker, that makes weak men strong. All druggists, SOc or 11. Cure guaranteed Booklet and sample free. Address Sterling Remedy Co., Chicago or New. York.

"THE LIGHT OF THE WORLD

OR OUR SAVIOUR IN ART"

Cost over 1100,000 to publish. Contains nearly 200 full-page engravings of our Saviour, by the Great Masters. It is not a life of Christ, but an exhibit of all tbe great Masters* Ideals of tbe Christ. No other book like it ever published. Agents are taking from three to twenty orders dally. The book is so beautiful that when people see It tbey want It. Published less than a year and already In its twenty-fifth edition, some editions confuting of I&500 books- The ureases are running day and night to fill orders. (It has never been sold in this territory.) A perusal of the pictures of this book Is like taking a tour among the great art gjdleries of Europe. Tbe Hermitage, Prado. Ufflzf, PlttL Louvre, Yatican, National of London. National of Berlin, Belvldere and other celebrated European art galleries, have all placed their rarest and greatest treasures at our disposal that tbey might be reproduced for this superb work. "FIRST GLANCE AT THE PICTURES BROUGHT TEARS TO MY EYES," says one. "Cleared $150 first week's work with the hook," says another. Many men and women baying and paying for homes from their success witb this great work. Also man or woman, of good church standing, can secure position of Manager here to do office work and corresponding with agents In thi* territory. Address tor full particulars A. P. T. Elder, Publisher. 18S Michigan A ve., Chicago, DL, Firr Floor.

quiet and getting better.- When I had"~Hj taken two bottles of Hood's Sarsaparilla and a box of Hood's Pills I found my' .1 hands getting better. 1 kept on with

Hood's Sarsaparilla and my hands continued to improve and now they are perfectly healed. My little boy is strong and healthy. Hood's Sarsaparilla has given me strength to do my housework. My husband has taken Hood's and says it is as essential in the family as flour." MRS. PROSPER ANTOINE, BOX 23, Justus, Pa.

Get Hood's and only Hood's.

is Wealth.

BRAIS

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NERVE AND BRAIN TREATMENT

THE ORIGINAL, ALL OTHERS IMITATIONS, Is

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under positivo Written Guarantee, by authorized agents only, to ouro Weak Memory, Dizziness, Wakefulness, Fits, Hysteria, Quickness, Night Losses, Evil Dreams, Lack of Gonfi. dence, Nervousness, Lassitude, all Drains, Youthful Errors, or Excessive UBO of Tobacco, Opium, or Liquor, which leads to Misery, Consumption, Insanity and Death. At store or by mail, $1 a box six for $5 with written guarantee to

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______ tocureinftraays, Atstor &fi£QR£or by mail. Geo. W. ,T. IIofTman, successor to Gulick & Co., sole agent, cor. Wabash avo. and Fourth St., Torre Haute.

CATARRH

Ask your

Druggist

for a generous IO CENT TRIAL SIZE.

Ely's Cream Balm

contains no cocaine, no an other injurious drug.

It is quickly absorbed. Gives relief at once.

It opens and cleanses the Nasal Passages. Allays Inflammation. Heals and protects the Membrane. Restores the Senses of Taste and Smell. Full Size 50c. Trial Size 10c. at Druggists or by mull. ELY BROTHERS, 50 Warren St., New York.

COLD 'n HEAD

REMOVAL.

J. A. Nisbet, Undertaker

Has moved bis store to

103 N. FOURTH ST.

One door north of Cherry St.

A Gas Tip!

Purchase at tho rate of 2c worth of gas a day, for each room, do away with coal, ashes, smoke and dirt, and proceed at once to '.CLEAN HOU8E.

GAS COMPANY

507 Ohio Street.

Mr. ft Mrs. If eery Katxcibacfe,

Funeral Directors

And Embalmers, Livery and Board-

DAILET & CRAIG

S03 OHIO STK,."H3B3T. Give them a call if you h&tw my kind of Insurance to place. They will write you in as good oompantes as are represented in tbe city

gAMUEL M. HUSTON, Lawyer, Hi Notary Public.

Rooms 3 and 517*4 Wabash avenue. Telephone. 457.

The Rosy Freshness

And a velvety softness of tbe skin is inva* riaMyobtalaed by those who use Posaom'a Oonsp'erion Powder.