Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 28, Number 42, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 16 April 1898 — Page 7

&|fc

v*»y

SfP

"V,, 34, &>V

1

I

r«-

t'V

SILKEN PETTICOATS

NECESSARY ACCESSORIES OF LADY'S WARDROBE,

5

MY

Tmilor Gowns For Spring:—The Tunic if: Skirt Developing New PoMibllities. 6% Blouses and Shirt Waists—Dainty Underwear Described.

S.

...

[Copyright. 1898, by the Author.J

There was a time, and not BO very long ago, when it wool have been considered not in the best taste for the great stores to exploit underwear so publicly and make sneh a feature of such goods, but now at certain seasons we find whole great show windows filled with underwear to the exclusion of ev-

SPBINO WAISTS AND TUNIC SKIRTS,

erything else. In the old days such garments were looked upon as necessary evils, and as a general rule they were made at home. But nous avons chaDge tont cela, and it would really be a pity to bide the dainty lace bedecked and beribboned creations. "Nighties" are pretty enough for tea gowns, all covered as they are with ruffle upon ruffle of embroidery and fine laoe, with tucks, puffs and ribbon bows set on wherever they would look the prettiest. The fineness of the work and the quality of the material in these undergarments surpass belief. Every stitoh is set neat and even enough to have satisfied our grandmothers, and that is saying muoh. The cut is of the latest style, and in every way these underclothes are as worthy of consideration as outer ones. The garments are marvels of good taste, but the lavish use of laoe and fine embroidery and hand work makes them oostly. The white skirts are simply impossible to describe with justice. Ruffle upon ruffle and ruffle above ruffle and each edged with still another ruffle of lace are the commonest. There are some where there is a Spanish ruffle about 18 inohes deep. This is cut in Vandykes and has three to five very narrow tucks above a hemstitched hem. The edge of the points has a ruffle of two inoh valenoiennes put on as full as it will hold. Below this are five ruffles of the lawn, each with a hemstitched hem half an inoh wide and five tucks of the narrowest width possible aud a full ruffle of the valenoiennes at the edge. This ruffle of laoe is sewed on by hand. Afe$je top of each point tfiere is & bowl' »on| wide baby blue satin ribbon. The'lightness and grace of such a skirt is the exouse for its existence^

The silk pottiooat was for awhile discarded by tbo swellest of the smart set, as so many of those outside of that favored number had by dint of many sacrifices obtained silk skirts, and so were able to announce their arrival by that delioious whispering rustle that only a taffeta petticoat can give. But they were too nice and too light and effeotive to give up, and now one finds the dainty and beautiful taffeta petticoats everywhere. There are some comparatively plain, but the plainest must have two or three full ruffles at the bottom. Others there are with a complete system of ruffles reaohing almost to the waist, and one or two even on the inside of the hem. Some few ruffles are pinked, but more are hemmed and corded, sometimes with bobbin cord and sometimes with stiffer material. Those skirts are all out on the same lines as are the outer skirts, and many of them have little bustles sewed in. They hang to perfection.

The ttmio or French skirt is developing new possibilities every day, and the peculiar shape of the lower portion gives it a most graceful sweep. One style has tho front part extended to the bottom in a gradual curve. The rest is sprung— milliner's folds of reps silk are laid along the joining seams. The basque to this is laid in what are known as side plaits from top to bottom, and these have each a narrow piping of the re pa

ill

TAILOR GOWKS FOR SPRDfO.

The sleeves are treated in a similar way, only the folds go around the arm. The material is dark blue serge.

Another of these skirts had the joining nearly the same height all around, and there was a tailor stitched fold with, an ornamentation of buttons and loops. Several white ftod flax colored duck dram* for summer were made in this same style with slight variations, gome of

Um

trimming, others blue, others again mat white on cream or ivory. Every one of these gowns was finished in the most perfect way. Some had fancy blouses, others jackets and vests. Some had high collars, others regulation navy style. Many of the ivory linen crash suits were wrought on the blouses with tennis rackets therefore they are for tennis. Others again bear no special mark but good taste, style and fine finish.

Blouses and shirt waists are too numerous to mention except collectively. They are of everything and made in every way that inventive genius could devise. I saw some very useful blouses for every day for summer made of red and also blue mohair. This does not soil easily and will stand no end of hard wear, and it is cool, as it is so woven as to stand out loose from the body. Skirts made of this goods are as popular as ever.

A pretty black brilliantine skirt well made and a full blouse of dotted swiss, with a belt of bright color, will make as dainty and desirable a summer afternoon dress as any one could desire. The very fine qualities of black silk warp mohair makes up well in the new designs of light capes. One odd design had a sort of half dolman effect. It was lined throughout with white satin and trimmed with white silk braid. Bayadere stripes are seen rather oftener than they were, but they never will become general. Black velvet ribbon is sewed to many dresses and other garments so that when on skirts it resembles the bayadera Greek key pattern is often seen around tailor gowns done in velvet ribbon. The thick, velvety French broadcloth in tan, mode, gray, cadet and other light colors is used for the most elegant of the tailor gowns. Applique of cloth in different shade and straps stitched in soroll designs make the most desirable, probably because the most difficult, trimming. Bichly braided panels done in two or more shades of the same color are also liked.

T//

white ones had black braid

HKNRIKTTE ROUSSEAU.

New York.

LUCY C. BENEDICT.

The Woman Writer Whose Favorite Themes Were Farm Topics. Now that she is no more with us, many will learn for the first time that L. 0. Benedict, one of the best known agricultural editors in America, was a woman. It was a source of amusement to her that she constantly reoeived business letters addressed to L. 0. Benedict, Esq. She never set her correspondents right in the matter.

In February, 1884, I first met Miss Benediot. Both of us were then employ-

LUCY C. BENEDICT. "M-

ed on the New York World, she as agricultural editor of The Weekly World. Both were Ohio women, and this may have served somewhat to draw us together in a friendship which continued unbroken from that day till her lamented death, March 15, 1898. We were again together as employees of the American Press Association, she agricultural editor there also. She assumed her duties in this oapacity in 188? and continued them till within a few days of her death. Nothing oould down her or hold her baok when her work required her attention. If she gained a high place in journalism, she won it. She loved her work with enthusiasm and made all else bend to it. A woman who does that oannot help succeeding. In her early girlhood in New York Lucy Benedict did reporting for the newspapers, and this took her to the meetings of the famous Farmers' club, to which Horace Greeley belonged. She knew him well aud caught from him some of that love for agriculture and rural life Which helped to make her success.

She was acquainted with leading agriculturists throughout the oountry and

Used

to make visits to experimental farms to witness the growth of new plants. By painstaking and loving care she made herself what she was, a model agricultural editor and writer. Withal she was unobtrusive to a fault, never thinking she had done anything unusual. She shrunk into the background and let her work speak for her. Hers was one of the noblest characters it has ever been my good fortune to meet She was sincerity itself, with an absolute honesty and straightforwardness about her that seemed to belong to faroff Spartan days rather than to our time. As your friend yon knew you had only to put out your hand in a time of trouble and you would find Luoy Benedict there. While her character was so strong and her will one of the most resolute, la temper she was gentleness itself. Her tact and kindly disposition carried her smoothly over rough places that would have been painful to persons more vain or self oonscioua

Loyal friend, gentle, sunny comrade, leader in her ohosesa branch of journalism, strong, sincere woman, an inspiration to those of her sex who seek to en* tor professional life—all this is not too much to say of

bar.

enough.

mm

It is not half

SUSA JUKBUBD

SPRING FASHIONS.

Sfohair Sielliennee, Poplins and Wash Goods—After Easter Millinery. [Special Correspondence.]

Nsw YORK, April 11.— Mohair sicilienne is among the very best values offered this spring, and while it cannot be called a novelty it has now come to be classed among the standard fabrics. It has been worn in the house all winter and now will take its place out of doors. Separate skirts are made of it and full suits, with skirt and redingote

NEW TAILOR GOWNS.

ooat

or

a

three-quarter coat made in the

neatest manner and lined with light silk. Mohair sicilienne, being so brilliant

a

fabrio, requires comparatively

little trimming, velvet or

Bet

pieoes of

castle braid being preferred. Mohair is produced in all colors, black being the favorite. Among its many uses bathing suits may be mentioned. It does not cling to the figure with such pertinaoity as flannel and doe? not hold water, so it is never heavy. It is also very useful for traveling, as no dust hangs upon it.

Poplins are among the goods put forward for all ordinary purposes. Some of these are wool filled, some linen, and others are all cotton. Naturally the price varies with the quality. Irish poplin 22 inohes wide costs up to $2.50 per yard. Grepons in all the old and many new weaves are offered and eagerly purchased. Skirts made up of these goods and sold very cheap are to be seen everywhere. Grenadines of all kinds and all colors and qualities are much liked. In former times—in fact, usually —grenadine was made up loosely over a lining, but this was stretched everywhere with the silk beneath.

Gotton goods are now made up into tailor gowns with exquisite taste. There are cotton ducks, honeycombs and armures, and they are made with a care so great that they are beautiful when done. One of ootton duck had four rows of "corset string" braid down each side in front and around the bottom just above the spring flounce, whioh was 18 inches deep. The basque fitted olosely and perfectly in front and had a little postilion behind. The front of the basque had three rows of the white braid and somex more wrought into a pretty design.

In the regular wash goods the ginghams are certainly the most popular. Some new effects are produced by havi0**thagingb''delicate light tints ^led into crepon. anlynew, but very le ginghama for ordinary use come the percales in the silk designs, and also in dots of different sizes.

I forgot to mention in donneotion with the grenadines that there is a new half wool grenadine which comes very much oheaper than the silk, silk and wool or all wool grenadine. This has all the appearance of the others and is open meshed so as to gain all the effeot of the lining. Some of the new grenadine suits have blouse waists of other or self material and a light jpape of grenadine lavishly trimmed with laoe ruffles. Some are lined with liberty or taffeta, and some are left plain. These oapes for the most part are shawl shap-

NEW MILLINERY, OLD AND YOUNG. ed, pointed front and back. Very many small capes scarcely cover the shoulders and are of lace or some light stuff almost covered with beading. Beading, fringe, laoe and ribbon are all seen, and braiding and embroidery are both largely employed on the handsomest dresses.

One almost dreads to mention millinery, there is so muoh that is new. But for the present the rough, coarse braids are most seen, and they are literally overwhelmed with flowers. A novelty had a laoe foundation and was turned up in bolero shape, crown and brim being oovered with iridescent spangles. At the upper edge of the brim there was a quilling of black silk mull and a plaited ruffle of the same standing above the crown and holding a large paradise plume. The prevailing colors were emerald and black. Poke shapes are popular, but are twisted and bent so that one oould scarcely know them. For children plaid taffeta with quills oar field flowers is oftenest seen for trim* ming. The bats themselves embody every color and mixture of colors there can be. Violet in all the shades of the natural flower has become very popular, and some bats are so oovered with it that there is scaroely a sight of the bat itseit Ouvs Hjjtna.

That pimple on your arm, those eruptions, itching and burning hives, just as surely indicate impurities in the blood, which should have prompt and careful attention, as do boils, carbuncles, ulcers, salt rheum and the severest forms of scrofula. Hood's Sarsaparillla cures all humors of the blood of every form and degree/

That Tired Feeling,

So common in the spring, is also due to the weak, thin, depleted condition of the blood. Make your blood pure by taking Hood's Sarsaparilla and yon will be strong and ready for work, will have good appetite and good health. Try Hood's Sarsaparilla this spring.

When I began taking .Hood's Sarsaparilla I could hardly sit up, and I copld not sleep at night. The doctor's medicine did not do me much good, and finally I began taking Hood's Sarsaparilla. I am now able to sleep well and have a good appe­

THE PEN OF THE JEW.

Will It Be a Strong: Factor In the Fiction of the Future? [Special Correspondence.]

NEW YORK, April 11.—It is the opinion of several critics and writers of the first grade, including W. D. Howells the novelist, and Ripley Hitchcock of the Appleton publishing house, that some of the strongest fiction of the fnture will deal with tho life of the working Jews in America. To be done well, however, this sort of literature must oome from the pen of a Hebrew writer, since none but one of that blood could fully understand the phases of character to be depioted or the peculiar conditions

I

of the life working Jews live here, may be some time before such a writer appears, because the members of the olass from which he must rise are as yet bound closely to the severest toil, and it may be that he has already made his first appearance in the person of Abraham Oahan, whose "Yekl," issued iu 1896, attracted some attention from literary folk.

The book deals solely with the denizens of the east side in Ne\f York, now given up almost wholly to garment making Hebrews from centrai and eastern Europe. As a series of character sketches it is singularly illuminating, and Mr. Howells predicted a heavy demand for it, no doubt basing his propheoy on the pleasure which its perusal afforded him personally. But, unfortunately for its general sale, the thread of the story on which the character sketches are strung is both slight and somewhat unattractive, and the readers of "Yekl" have not been overnumerous. Had the book made a decided hit Mr. Gaban would probably have written a second story some time before this, and there is reason to expect that his next venture in fiction will contain more to attract the general reader than is afforded by "Yekl."

As told by himself, the story of his wanderings through Bussia before he succeeded in crossing the frontier, his narrow escapes from the secret polioe and his early struggles here in the United States is one of thrilling and fascinating interest, being full of the unexpected sort of thing that Mr. Howells says never happens in real life. It is hoped by his friends that be will some time utilize this material, which is by far the best that is in bis possession.

In the meantime he is struggling with his own problems, editing a monthly printed in Yiddish for his fellow Hebrews and earning his living by teaching night school and occasional contributions to the newspapers. He is a close reader of all American fiction and by a curious exemplification of the law of contraries isan admirer of both Hawthorne the elder and Howells.

I OHBORN SFENCXK.

Mrs. Delia M. Jones, Granville, N. Y., writes: I have the highest praise to give to Dr. Bull's Cough Syrup. We have used it in our family for five years with tb» best effects. _____

It is absurd

to

OWi

S

Say that wealth is a

thing of such a kind that a man with plenty of it around him may perish with hunger like Midas in the fable, who, from his Insatiable wish, found everything before him turned into gold. —Aristotle.

Sufferers from blood poverty and ranenil feebleness of the system should take Dr. Bull's Pills, a superb blood-purifier and vitalixer. Get only the genuine, Dr. Joan W. Bull's Pills.

Spring Humors

tite, and am getting over the kidney trouble with which I was afflicted." SABAH PKBIOO, 85 South Reisner Street, West Indianapolis, Indiana.

My Health Was Poor

For years and I had tried so many medicines without benefit that I had about given up all hope of ever being strong again. My friends thought I had con­

Is America's Greatest Medicine because it cures when all others fail. Sold by all druggists. six for $5.

Paper Thirty Tears Ago.

In looking baok at what was written in regard to paper making not more than SO years ago a popular authority, treating of the disoovery of paper making from esparto, the source being Spain, cited Spain as an unstable country. The great business of paper making might be quite undone or made helpless if it were to depend on Spain for esparto. Next bamboo as a crude material was discussed and found impracticable. Its bulk and the OQI$ of carriage would render bamboo fa» paper stock impossible. Bagasse, the fibrous residue of the sugar oane, was deemed only of relative value, for it gave only 40 per cent of fiber.

The writer, treating of cotton or linen rags, said that these could be no longer depended upon, and next considered the proposed utilization of wood. He deemed this out of the question. "Wood," he said, "contains but a small amount of fiber and has little felting power." Then the writer of the article told how several mills in England and Scotland which had tried to make paper from suoh wood pulp had abandoned its manufacture. It was too expensive, costing £24 to £25 the ton, and so the conclusion arrived at was that wood pnlp is never likely to be used to any considerable extent.

So much for prophecy!—New York Times. Color In Electric Light.

The colors in the shop windows on Broadway come out at night under the influence of the eleotrio light in a wonderfully pure way. In the daytime it p,

ever

gets

a

peifeot

I ^Ijfcfipftens. and

hp,

leaving

no ont^color perfectly mtaot, but mixing with each suggestions of all the others. That is why in impressiouistio painting, like the work of Monet, for instance, there is seldom a pure color. He tries for plein air, for atmosphere, for the shadings whioh give background and sunlight.

But by the eleotrio light the background in the shops stops abruptly in darkness. There seems to be no medium in whiclf the colors are bathed. They stand out hard, clear, pure, one beside the other, in sharp contrast. The beauty they have is the beauty of utter clearness, of distinguished purity. They have not the glamour of soft uncertainty of outline, of indefinite extension baok into space. Indeed the space element is wiped out altogether, and upon a two dimensioned screen, as it were, id thrown the eleotrio light, bringing out in poignant intensity the predominant oolor of the objects.—New York Commercial Advertiser.

Hunting In Bygone Day*.

What long apprenticeship the would be huntsmen had to serve in bygone days 1 Gaston de Foix considered a beginning should be made when the child had reached the age of 7, when it should be placed in the kennels. King Charles says that to become a perfect huntsman the young gentilhomme who is intended for the post of veneur should be taken at the age of 12. He must be healthy and well built, he must have good sense and especially a quick and prompt judgment. One of the principal things required is that he should be painstaking. Alas, 160 years later we have D'Yauville telling us that a man needs two years' tuition to qualify as a huntsman! It was not only the paid gentlemen of the hunting establishments, however, who became real connoisseurs, for their royal masters took such personal interest in everything connected with the chase that most of them knew all their hounds by nacse, and on the eve of a day's hunting would name each hound that was to be taken out. They also prided themselves on being able to faire le bois themselves—that is, go out with their lymers in the morning and quest for and harbor the stag.—Pall Mali Magazine.

R. A. Lindsay, late of No. 8 Engine Company Baltimore City Fire Department, says that the members of his company have used Salvation Oil in cases of sprains and soreness with most gratifying results. It is the best. Only 25 cents.

24

Hours

to New Orleans or to Jacksonville via the Queen & Crescent Limited trains from Cincinnati. ______

SO-TO-BM for fifty Ceata.

Guaranteed tobacco faabit core, makes weak aoe&stttMc. Mood pare- Mc.fL All druggist*

sumption. Finally I was taken with neuralgia of the stomach, and for this trouble obtained n\ relief from prescriptions. read of wonderful cures by Hood's Saras parilla and I came to the conclusion to trj it. Iamthankful I did try it, for afte»\J taking a few bottles I was sound and well. Today I enjoy good health and it it: wholly due to Hood's Sarsaparilla." LIZZIE OUTRIGHT, Macedonia, 111.

Health Is Permanent.

1 have had a cough for ten years andii became so reduced I oould not sit up. I was almost a skeleton and was growing ta worse. Everyone thought I had consumption. Hood's Sarsaparilla was finally recommended and before I had taken all of the first bottle I could see that it had helped me. I was soon able to sit up and appetite came to me. I was also enabled to sleep well at night. I found Hood's fills did me much good. I have been well since taking these medicines." MATILDA BBTDGBWATBB, 301 cor. Pearl and Chestnut Streets, Jeffersonvllle, Ind. Remember,there's no substitute for Hood's

Everybody Say» So.

Cascarets Candy Cathartic, the most wonderful medical discovery of the age, pleasant and refreshing to tho taste, aei gently ami positively on kidneys, liver and bowels, cleansing the entire system, dispel colds, euro lietuiaclie, lever, habitual constipation and biliousness. Pleaso bify and try a box of U. C. C. to-day 10, 35, no cents. Sold and guaranteed to cure by all druggists.

"THE LIGHT OF THE WORLD

OR OUR SAVIOUR IN ART"

Cost over $100,000 to publish. Contains nearly 300 full-page enRravinffs of our Saviour, by tho Great Masters. It is not a life of Christ, but an exhibit of all tho groat Masters' Ideals of the Christ. No other book like It over published. Agents are taking from threo to twenty orders dally. The book Is so beautiful that when people see it they want It. Published less thwn a year and already In Its twenty-fifth edition, some editions consisting of 18,500 books1 Tho presses are running day and night to fill orders. (It has never been sold In this torrltory.) A perusal of tho pictures of this took Is like taklnga among tho great art galleries of Bi among tbo great art galleries of Europe. Tho Hermitage, Prado, uffhsl, Pitti. Louvre. Vatican, National of London, National of Berlin. Belvidero and other celebrated European art galleries, have sll placed their rarest and greatest treasures at our disposal thatthoy might be reproduced for this superb work. -'FIRST GLANCE AT THE PICTURES BROUGHT TEARS TO MY EYES," says one. "Cleared $150 first week's work with tho book," says another. Many men and women buying and paying for liomes from their success with this great work. Also man or woman, of good church standing, can secure position of Manager here to do office work and corresponding with agents in this territory. Address for full particulars A. P. T. Elder, Publisher, 189 Michigan Avo.,. Chicago, III., Flrf Vloor.

REMOVAL.

J. A. Ifelt, Undertaker

.Has moved his store to

103 N. FOURTH ST.

One door north of Cherry St,

507 Ohio Street.

HARDING & PL0GSTED GENERAL FURNITURE REPAIRING, UPHOLSTERING, MATRESSES. 1102 Wabash Avenue., near Eleventh.^,

DAILEY & CRAIG

603 OHIO STBEBT.

Give them a call ifyou hao *ny kind of Insurance to place. They will write you In as good compn nies&s are represented in tbe city'

Notary

Rooms 3 and

1.517X

phone. 457.

mm\

A Gas Tip !.

Purchase at the rate of

2c

wortli^^!v

of gas a day, for each room, do away with coal, ashes, smoke and dirt, and proceed at once to CLEAN HOUSE

GAS COMPANY

TEBKE HAUTE, IND.

All Orders Executed Promptly.

Mr. & Mrs. Heory Kalicobach,

Funeral Directors

And Embalmers, Livery and Board-

a 1 1 4 1 1

ed phone

Wabash avenue. Tele­

T)R L. H. BABTHOXiOMEW.!*

Dentist

871 Main St. Terre Hante. lad.

A Handsome Complexion

one of the greatest charms a woman can poMHW. Pwoki'I Goaununcso*

gifti it.

Pzwvam