Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 28, Number 35, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 26 February 1898 — Page 2

Im&'m

TIGHT STOUTS AGAIN

QUITE THE REVERSE OF DOLLY VARDENS, IF YOU PLEASE.

Close Around the Body and Flaring at the Bottom Dela&rtean Experts May Distinguish Themselves—Braid and Lace

Trimmings.

[Copyright, 1S9S, by the Author.] It is but two short weeks ago that we were gravely told that we might confidently expect the dainty watteau styles and that everybody would look like Dolly Vardens, but now we are as gravely informed that the tendency is to have back the close skirts, not exactly what was once called the "eelskin," but skirts entirely tight around the body and flaring at the bottom, though there will be no stiffening put in the lining. This will make the skirt fall in many folds close around the feet, and even street gowns are to be long enough to "dip." When the regulation number of narrow ruflles, now thought to be a fixed fact for the coming season, are applied the result will be rather cumbersome and will require some Delsartean study before all women can be properly graceful in them.

But just now wo may make ourselves happy with the flat trimmings permitted us. Among these are the braids, plain and ornamental, the lace applications and embroidery and the passementerie and galloons. The prettiest effects are often obtained by the simplest means. For instance, a dark green whipcord dress was made very beautiful by having four rows of half inch hercules braid sewed around the skirt, then one row in up and down design, with picot loops of narrower braid on the upper edge. The blouse was laid in tucks and had a barring of black velvet ribbon around the bust and in form of bretelles. This was overlaid with a pretty design of picot looping done in fine black soutache. The barring gave a square neck effect, and this was filled in by ivory white bengaline, which made a stock collar. This is quite a novel fancy, but is wrought out in many other cases. The neck of a blouse or gown is cut away and the space filled in with some contrasting color or material to give a "turtle neck" effect. It is generally more striking than beautiful. The blouse waists open in front sometimes over two blouses or vests. These always differ in color and material with the body of the garment. Braid with double picot edges makes stylish and handsome trimming to almost any gown. A neat design had a velvet yoke and double fold dowa the front outlined with this double edged braid. Sometimes it is produced in gold braid, but most often in mohair. It is thought that braiding will be very fashionable at least until next fall.

Next to braiding in all its varieties come the flat laces. These are applied more lavishly than laoes ever were before. Some of the new silk gowns have five and six narrow ruffles on the bias. Each of those is overlaid with a row of some kind of lace. There is a new imitation duchesse which is very effective. Valenciennes is a favorite, though it is better adapted to the thin goods now beiug made up so rapidly.

The new bareges are very dainty and as if they were not in themselves enough they are mingled with other ideas until one scarcely knows what to call them. Tho colors are usually light and neutral, so that whatever other color may be added to them it shows up well. Some of the light ashen gray bareges have stripes of bluo, lilac, roso green or other color. These are tucked so that each tuck stands out boldly. Black with those tucked stripes makos beautiful gowns. There are woolen canvases with dark or black ground with silk swivel dots in bright oolors. This is very striking.

Anew plaid is made in a transparent silk fabric. It is called the "duneen," though the desigusare very little different from those in tho poplins and other stuffs. Groen and blue plaids with but few lines of otliex colors are very new and equally pretty. In some of these plaids there may be seen two or three

LATE DESIGN'S IK BLOUSK 00STtJME& shades of blue with browns and tans as counter weaves. Some of these duneen plaids are made from threads that have been dyed in skeins and then woven. This gives them a deliciously vague and clouded appearance.

The new crepous show great originality in odd billows, blisters and crinkles. Separate skirts of this will be very choice, for there are no cheap lilies of crepous madew The richest of these by all means are the black ones. The black grenadines are exceptionally handsome and show some entirely new designs. One style has a delicate pattern of ferns done in raised black silk and between them fine dots in colors representing jewels or black representing jet. One would really believe them jewels at first Some are all black Black net •*itb dozens of fine tucks in dusters and separately is among the most elegant of thenew gowns. Spangles are often applied most lavishly to the« on the

Vai£t.

In fact, there are so many of the

light materials offered that one grows weary of numbering them. I must mention the tbin white linen lawns and batistes Many of these have insets of Valenciennes lacs and tucks and lace edgings, all arranged so that the wearer has nothing to do but sew up one seam and gather it to a band to have a gown all ready to wear.

Insertings of lace have always been more or less popular, and so have tucks, but never to the same extent as now. Woolen and silk and even velours and terry velvet are all tucked on occasion, and the thinner goods almost always. The narrow tucks sewed to the line of lace makes a delicate trimming tb"t cannot be surpassed. Tucks are applied

RECEPTION OK VISITING GOWNS.

to some of the most unpromising materials, and always with good effect. An odd fancy had a blouse basque of gray drap d'ete, with a little fine soutache on the sleeves and blouse. It opened in front over a vest of white cloth and had a band and tie of the same. There was a revers collar made entirely of crosswise tucks of the white cloth. It was so singular as to attract the eye at once. A white serge shirt blouse was tucked from neck to belt in three clusters on each side. There were revers, and they were tucked. So was the high collar. The silk .shirt waists and blouses show many ideas in tucking, also in revers. It seems that almost everything has more or less of tho effect of an opeL front showing a vest of some kind. Even the wash goods are made up in this manner. Reception and visiting gowns of moire, velours, silk and other material have more or less of the same effect. One beautiful black moire had an open blouse vest with a revers collar of silk trimmed with jet and narrow puffings of blhck crepon. ^Jack crepon ruffles edged with scarlet added a touch of color.

very refined dress for a

young lady was of gray and green silk and wool novelty stuff. The dainty waist had bands of bias terry in light brown and a yoke and caps of the same. This was in turn trimmed with emerald bead garniture. Square jeweled buttons added to the beauty of it.

Jeweled buttons are most beautiful. Some are set in steel, some in silver and others are ^uameled. They are formed altogether like brooches, and often represent different expensive jewels. They are really more like works of art than simple, ignoble buttons. There are large buckles for belts, sashes and draperies, with turquoises, pearls, emeralds, rubies, etc., so cleverly imitated as to be as fine as the real jewols in appearance at least. Steel filigree and enamel are beautiful. These jewels are to be used as ornamental buttons for millinery purposes and to hold draperies. Some are made in full sets for shirt waists.

HKNRIKTTE ROUSSEAU.

THE PEN AND BRUSH,

Woman's Club That Has No Mission Except to Make Its Members Comfortable. The newest thing in women's clubs is the Pen and Brush of New York. It is nothing if not unique, and it is trying to be just as different from other organizations as possible. To begin with, it is not going to have any essays, papers or speeches for the improvement of the mind. It just means to have a good time, like men's clubs, which must not convey the impression that these women intend to stare out of the windows, smoke, play billiards, gossip and drink. Heaven forbid! The members are too intensely respectable for that. They are mostly all well known in the realm of art and letters.

Tho clubrooms at 26 West Twentysecond street are the daintiest, most cozy spots imaginable. A large platform at one end holds a couch piled with pillows and a Turkish tabouret for tea things. Bookcases, shelves and furniture are painted a dull green, and oriental rugs are on the floor. Curtains of yellow silk drape the many small windows, and hangings and pillows repeat this charming color. The room is full of cheer and sunlight. And what is still better, it is not shut up for occasions. It is open all the time, with a maid in attendance.

The fair members drift in, drink a cup of tea, meet friends by appointment, leave parcels or bags, read the papers and generally find the club so convenient they wonder how they lived without it

But listen 5 They have done something—these daring Pen and Brashes— at which the other women's clubs stand aghast. They let men into the sacred precincts of the club every Sunday— nay, they even invite them and give them tea, and these men, brainy, brilliant fellows in art and letters, seem to like to go immensely well and quite jump at the chance of getting a peep at the yellow room of "The Baa and Brush."

Another innovation is no blackballing in this club. The name of a proposed member is submitted to a committee and either accepted or rejected as quietly as possible. There is no president, ail power being in the hands of a governing board of seven.

Alios EL Ivm

THE DINING ROOM.

How to Give It the Cheery Atmosphere Which Stimulates Digestion.

A wholesome dining room is as essential to comfort and pleasure as wholesome food. It must not only appeal to the eye, but possess sanitary qualifications. Light and ventilation are necessary, pretty furnishings desirabla Together they result in the cheery atmosphere which stimulates digestion and combats depression.

If, as it should be, the dining room is on the sunny side of a house or apartment, the general tone of the furnishings should, artistically considered, be deep and rich. If unfortunately there is a lack of light, brighter colorings should be selected. Materials and methods for aside wall finish are largely an individual choice, sometimes governed, however, by the length of the purse. Tapestry, lincrusta walton and burlap are all popular and stylish. Tapestry requires, of course, dark woodwork to properly disclose its beauties. Lincrusta walton, which may be illuminated by any coloring desired, may be set off by either light or dark wood. This is also the case with burlap, which comes in many tints and is plain or figured. It is also frequently dyed by the furnisher or decorator if an odd tint is desired or necessary. Striped denim and awning cloth are also among wall hangings, and in pink and white or green and white stripes provide a dainty, inexpensive finish for simply furnished dining rooms. Neither, however, is as soft in effect as bur'ap.

Hard wood floors, with a high finf^ and strewn with two or three rugs— more if tho room is large—are universal. It is only where floors are of the ordinary kind that carpete are useu. Dark mattings are also stylish backgrounds for rags.

Mantels 2 handsome are not draped, but upon them are placed a vase or two— odd ones, not mates—and a few pieces of bric-a-brac artistically, not regularly, arranged. Precision is quite out of date. Above the mantel at one side may hang a sma'l picture beneath a graceful drapery, while a group of pretty fans may rest u^on the other side. Tiles in wooden frames and vertical or horizontal order may decorate another portion of the wall, and here and there a picture may be hung. The main thing to avoid is crowding the room or its walls. Draperies may be used at doorways if desired, but they should be severe in style to accord with the simplicity now governing every well appointed dining room, be it costly or inexpensive.

Mahogany, antique oak and English black oak are the woods exclusively used in the newest furniture.

The popular table is round, and for ordinary use upon it are circular tableoloths of fine linen woven with borders and center patterns. For state occasions and use upon mahogany tables are handsome cloths bordered with renaissance lace and with a center decoration to match. Lace decorated doilies, centerpieces and tray cloths are also used at formal dinners, be the table square or round.

Chairs with medium high backs are most in favor. Those with very high backs are inconvenient for the waiters, and guests frequently suffer from this cause. They are therefore unpopular. The chairs for host and hostess, however, may be high backed, since they are placed at the ends of a table. Seats are upholstered in leather or tapestry ^r have loose fiat cushions of plain or gilt embossed leather. Less expensive chairs have cane seats and are used without oushions.

A handsome dining room just completed is finished and furnished in antique oak. The walls are hung wild lincrusta walton, in which are all the shadings of oak. Touches of color pppear in the deep garnet leather chair seats, the handsome tiles over the grafe: the urns on the carved mantel, the rugs on the polished floor and the stained panes of the small, quaint windows.

Another dining room, less costly but quite as cheery, is in the middle of a popular studio apartment. By day it i. lighted only from a skylight, by night by a chandelier, the regular burners of which have been replaced by Argand burners, in conformance with another popular fad. Its color scheme is original and effective and could be used with advantage in any poorly lighted dining room. The clever little lady who presides arranged a deep dado of "turkey red" hronnd its walls, heading it with a wood molding about three inches wide She also covered the door leading into the studio proper with tho same brilliant fabric and carried the molding up its sides and across its top. Above this dado the walls are hung with cream tinted cartridge paper. In the coloring of the woodwork shone forth the crowning stroke of genius. It was all overlaid with three coats of a jet black paint or preparation which dried with a brilliant polish. The effect is superb, the cost trifling. On the walls, in not too great profusion, hang quaint souvenirs of journeyings in foreign lands and a picture or two. A rope of gay steins depends from one corner, while in another is an old Flemish triangular wall cabinet A low mantel adorned with oriental stuffs and curios, an antique chest that serves as a seat and a similar sideboard on which are a few pieces of old silver provide other attractions. Chippendale chairs surround a square, antique table, always simply, daintily spread.

In another simple dining room in quite a fine apartment the walls are hung with pink and white striped denim. An empire sideboard and cabinet hold hold bits of old silver and Spanish glass. Empire chairs are about a table of the same period. Dainty muslin curtains are looped back with empire bows, and bits of pretty drapery are here and there on the walls and over doorways. But few pictures are there, though several curios are displayed against the denim background. These illustrations go to prove the statement that "individual taste governs the furnishing of the up to date dining room.

TEH LIE HAUTE SATURDAY EVENING MAIL,, FEBRUARY 26, 1808.

JKXXXBT. WJLKMJL

THE TUNIC SKIRT.

It Is New and Popular Directions For Making It. [Special Correspondence.]

NEW YORK, Feb. 21.—The general effect of the newest skirts is to be very close around the upper part and full around the bottom.* And just because they are so difficult nearly every woman feels that spring will be shorn of half its glories if she cannot have one. I said

SHIRKED SKIRT AND NEW TONIC SKIRT.

the skirt Of this form is difficult. In reality it is easier to make than it looks, but a proper understanding of the peculiar cut and make is necessary. This kind of skirt is called a tnnio skirt, probably on account of the shawl effect on the front, which is obtained by the particular cut of the different parts. The shawl shaped part is so arranged that whatever trimming is put upon it reaches to the waist line on each side of the back.

The first illustration shows how the tunic skirt looks finished. The second one shows the way to cut it and sew it together. The upper part is out in two pieces, No. 1 being the front breadth and No. 2 the side pieces. The front is in one piece on the double. The upper front piece is marked 1. The small piece marked 4 is to be sewed to it. This is also cut on the double and fits the bottom of the other exactly, but is one inch wider on each side. The seam, when made, must "take up" the extra two inches, which, with the slant on the sides, springs it out a little at the bottom. The side pieces marked 2 have two pieces sewed to them, four in all, and they are marked 5 and 6. The piece marked 5 should be sewed to that marked 6, being joined where the two crosses come. This seam should be sewed before the upper and lower parts are joined. There are two darts in each side piece, but these should he fitted by pins while the skirt is on the figure. When the pieces 1 and 4 are sewed together and those marked 5 and 6 are joined and then sewed to No. 2 the whole breadth of Nos. 1 and 2 should be sewed together from top to bottom, beginning at the top. That brings the whole front part into its shape. The back breadths, marked 8, are to be sewed to the side of No. 6, left ready for the purpose. When this is done, the bias seam at the back is to be sewed, and that brings the whole skirt into the new shape, needing only the few darts at the sides and the plait or fold at the back and the binding.

To out the skirt one must know the length of the breadths. Allow one inch for "take up," one inch for seams and half an inch at the bottom for sloping. Then fold the material on the straight and measure down from the top of the front the required number of inches, usually about 40,

:*,The

top should be

eight inches acrolsV four on the double, and this should increase to 22 at the bottom, 11 on the double. Now mark a cross 10 inches from the bottom on the fold and another one 14 inches from the bottom on the outside. Mark a curve upward from one cross to the other as it is on the diagram and cut it carefully. When the inch seam is taken in, that leaves the flare of two inches at the top and more at the bottom. The sides come next, but must- be cut separate from the pieces for the lower parts, Nos. 5 and 6. It would be well to cut a first draft from an old piece of cloth, as these require careful adjustment If the upper part is outlined on paper, the lower pieces may be made to conform easily to the proper outline. They should be measured in the same way as the front to get the required length, and 8% inches more than the skirt is intended to be must be allowed. If it is desired that the skirt should train, it can be lengthened by cutting it longer, the line of dots on the two back pieces, 6 and 8, being for walking length.

Half a breadth of 44 inch stuff will cut the front. It must be 20 inches wide, doubled for each of the side pieces, and the whole width of the goods must be laid out to cut the two back breadths and bring the bias seam in the center. If cloth is scant, one could leave it doubled and cut the goods so that what comes off the top could be pieced to the bottom, but the skirts do not hang as well with the seams across, and this

DIAGRAM OF THZ XEW TONIC DRESS SKIRT.

can only be done where there is no tip or down to the goods. On tbe diagrams the square lines represent the straight of the goods and the figures their relative positions on tbe straight surface. Apiece of tape should be sewed in with the bias back seam. The whole skirt should be lined. The facing maybe stiff and heavy if one likes, bnt alight and springy one gives tbe most graceful sweep. Tbe only place for a pocket is between tbe parte marked Sand 6. The placket is at the back.

OLIVE HABPEB.

Mistakes of the "PnbUsner-s nesaerr-

I was speaking of some of my experiences as a publisher's "reader," a few years ago, in a recent conversation with a friend, who told me that Mr. John Morley had read Mr Isaacs" for Messrs. Macmillan and had advised against its publication on the ground that while it would be a most creditable book to have on their list, there would be no sale for it. In the light of subsequent events this is rather amusing, but it only proves that even so astute a critic as Mr. Morley is not infallible—in other words, that he is human.—Critic.

is -v His Triumph.

"Have you anything to say?" asked the sheriff, as he strapped the murderer in the electric chair. "I just want to point but what fools those people were who said I was born to be hanged," replied the criminal, with a smile of triumph.—Philadelphia North American.

A Disappearance Explained.

"I have no fears as to my daughter's ultimate success," said the ex-prima donna, "for she has inherited my voice." "Indeed!" replied the visitor. "I've often wondered what became of it. Chicaan News.

If the worth of anything is proven by results, then surely Dr. Bull's Cough Syrup, is preeminently the best cough syrup now extant.

Distressing Stomach Disease

Permanently cured by the masterly powers of South American Nervine Tonic. Invalids need suffer no longer, because this great remedy can cure them all. It is a cure for the whole world of stomach weakness and indigestion. The cure begins with the first dose. The relief it brings is marvelous and surprising. It makes no failure never disappoints. No matter how long you have suffered, your cure is certain under the use of this great health giving force. Pleasant and always safe. Sold by all druggist, in Terre Haute, Ind.

No-To-Bac for ITtfty Cents.

Guaranteed tobacco lir-liit cure, makos weak men strong, blood pure. ftOc.M. All druKijists. T. F. Anthony. Ex-Postmaster of Promise City, Iowa, says: "I bought one bottle of 'Mystic Cure' for Rheumatism, and two (loses of it did me more good than any medicine I ever took." Sold by Jacob Baur, Seventh and Main Sts.. Cook. Bell & Black, and all druggists in Torre Haute.

To Cure Constipation Forever. Take Caacurets Candy Cathartic. lOo or 25a If C. C. C. fall to cure, druggists refund money.

Many People Cannot Drink coffee at night. It spoils their sleep. You can drink Grain-0 when you please and and sleep like a top. For Grain-0 does not stimulate it nourishes, cheers and feeds. Yet it looks and tastes like the best coffee. For nervous persons, young people and children Grain-0 is the perfect drink. Made from ptlre grains. Get package from your grocer to-day. Try it in place of coffee. 15 and 25c.

Don't Tobacco Spit nnil Smoko Your Life Awny. To quit tobacco easily und forever, be mag netic, full of life, nerve and vigor, take No-To-Bac, the wonder-workor, that makes weak men strong. All druggists, 50o or 81. Cure guaranteed Booklet and sample free. Address Sterling Remedy Co.. Chicago or New York.

GOOD TIMES HAVE COME.

You can afford to indulge yourself or you? family in the luxury of a good weekly news* paper and a quarterly magazine of fiction. Vou can get both of these publications with «imost a library of good novels for fs per year.

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S-THE SALE OF A SOUL. By JfcLetltn! -TllK COUSIN OF 7 Ml- KINf, Py A S V«ftW„rrim. •—SIX MONTIH IN HADES By

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GAS COMPANY

507 Ohio Street.

Dr. Cort F. Askren

announces removal to bis new offices, HOCBH— 114-115 ORAND OPERA HOUSE 8 to 9 mornings. TERRE HAUTE 1 to 4 afternoons. 7 to 9 evenings.

A Handsome Complexion

Is one of the greatest charms a woman can posses*. POUOBI'S OOKKJOOOX R/WDK* gives it.

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Indigestionjalpitation

Hood's Sarsaparilla Restored Her to Good Health

Baby Had Catherlngs In His Head, 111 but Hood's Cured Him. I suffered for over three years from indigestion, palpitation ol the heart, night sweats and kidney trouble. I did not get relief from medicines, and reading ot the cure of a similar case by Hood's Sarsaparilla, I began taking it. I continued its use for six months and at that time I was •entirely cured. I am now in the best of .health and weigh 64 pounds more than when I began taking Hood's Sarsaparilla. Our baby had earache and gatherings in the head which broke out in sores. He became thin and weak. Hood's Sarsaparilla healed the sores and restored him to gook health." MRS. ALIOE POLLARD, Greenwood, Indiana. ,, Remember

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THE

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The Perfume of Violets

Tbe parity of the lily, tbe alow of the rose, and the flash of Hebe combine in Poaoia'a wondrous Powder.