Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 28, Number 31, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 29 January 1898 — Page 2

THE COMING STYLES.

NEW DESIGNS FOR CHARMS, LOCKETg AND OTHER JEWELRY.

The Spangle Trimming for Bodices and Hats—Stylish Colors—New Parasols Foi All Occasions—Suggestions of the Long

Ago—Points Abont Skirts. t,„

[Copyright, 1898, by the Author.] Hearts are tramps just now in all sorts of jewelry and even in many oi the designs printed on the fine stuffs intended for summer wear. se designs have the double hearts outlined to represent jewels, with a background made Tip of fine broken colors in a sort of sub-

BLOCSE COSTUME AND EVENING GOWN. dned kaleidoscopio confusion. When the oolors at the back are dull, as they frequently are, the hearts are printed in gold color with turquoise, emerald or ruby jewels with on almost startling realism. The ornamental hearts are seen in lockets, large and small, plain and jeweled, and also in rings, bracelets and brooches. In fact, there is no kind of jewelry that may not show the heart somewhere or somehow. Charms for gentlemen's watch chains are offered, and linked sleeve buttons and tiny shirt studs or scarfpins. Children have quite large lockets finished in Roman gold on the outside and with parents' portraits inside. The fancy for these hearts is almost a fad and extends far beyond the usual domains of the jeweler's art. So far is it carried that in some cases an evening bodice is so designed that the top, bottom and drapery form one great heart shape.

Many evening as well as day bodices now are made with each side entirely different from the other, being draped on one side and trimmed with some fir" trimming like lace application or beaded passementerie on the other side or perhaps wrought with spangles.

Speaking of spangles reminds me of a blouse intended for evening, though it was high in the neok. It was of thin, soft silk, but was completely oovered with aluminium spangles, one lapping over, the other like the soales of a fish. The sleeves, dog oollar and belt were all oovered in the same way. The effect of this blouse worn with a black satin duohesse skirt was very brilliant and effective without being too pronounced. I should have said that there were many of the spangles on the skirt, too, bi.c they were sewed very thiokly up around tho hips and more and more sparingly toward the bottom. This style of trimming goes by tho name of "a shower of stars." Some of the spangle trimming is as large as the oriental sequins. Qpanglos are to be largely used as trimming on the new hats. Those for spring will have less, however, than those for next summer, when we are to have the elegant leghorn, milan chip and tusoan hats all braided in one. These will have scarfs of black or oolored net or tulle spangled with stars and disks. The scarfs will end in enormous bows and high draperies, and they will surround and support huge masses of flowers of ourious kinds—orchids, azaleas, nasturtiums and hyacinths besides many others. Lilacs and rosos do not appear to be well represented among the new flowers, and in their places we find the heliotrope with its woolly leaves and deep purple blossoms. Violets and pansies thero are, and monstrous poppies. Purple is less ftvshiouable now as a color than it was, for which we should all be duly thankful, for it is horribly unbecoming to almost every one.

Somo new parasols are on exhibition, not many, but just enough to give us an idea of what wo may expect. In the first plaoo there are not so many ribs as there were, and in consequence the curve of the materia1 between them is very marked. Pl»id taffeta is the distinguishing feature of one style. The handle is of natural wood, and the frame is so made that the silk is carried up about three inches above the body of the para-

NEW WRAPS.

sol. The handle is finished with a silk oord and tassels. This is considered a: very swell affair and will be adopted by the "smart set" for runabouts.

Press parasols and those for coaching and carriage are of light striped taffeta edged with a medium full raffle of white silk lace in Spanish figuring, The raffles are not over three inches1 deep. Those parasols with the lace ruffles are lined down to the inside steels with Italian silk hi pink, blue,j maize, eta, in a style so old as to have

been forgotteif. A little narrow ribbon to match the color is put here and there. All these parasols are small, not half the size of those of last year. So far I have see none of the light fluffy effects. Black silk and satin duchesse parasols are lined with white or some other light tint in liberty silk.

The new shirt waists and separate skirts take such a large share of public attention this week that I am afraid to mention them at all for fear of neglecting everything else. The shirt waist foi next summer is very nearly the same as it has been, but the sleeves are narrower and longer and more mannish than ever. In general the white linen collar will be worn for all those made of solid material, like gingham, pique and per cale. The pique is not the ?arue stiff and hard stuff of a year ago, but a soft ribbed cotton, figured or polka dotted. There will be an endless amount of dotted swiss waists and of the fine organdie lawns in every imaginable color and design. Blouses of madras, striped zephyrs, ginghams and fancy percale: are being made by the thousand, and all for next summer. Blouses and waiste for spring are now offered in all the suitable silks and satins and also vel vets.

Separate skirts have belts attached to them, and these are so arranged as to hold the blouse firmly. Few of them are made without some sort of padding ovei the hips and in the back. They bang in large, massive folds obtained by having the skirt out circular at least on the sides. Some have but two pieces, with a seam directly in front and another at the back. Others have five and seven gores. It depends entirely upon individual taste. The gored skirts keep their shape better.

Sleeves are almost skin tight, with stiff puffs, caps or jockeys at the top and a full ruffle of chiffon or mull at the wrists. New neckwear is often in the shape of a deep plastron, like a vest front, made of lace, generally spangled and finished at the neck with lace and sometimes ribbon. Some of the evening bodices are marvels in the way of spangle work. Drapery does not interfere with it. Even some of the sjpra and ball short wraps have different colorpd spangles sewed on to follow the outlines in tho design, which is brocaded on the satin. One of these wraps had a lining of white quilted satin with a border white ostrich plumes. The roses in the design were seweci with spangles. A n^^v fur cape has two ruffles made of the f"-i extending around. In front at the collar was a sealskin bow with an imitatii diamond slide, with a full oascade of white lace sewed with silver spangles.

HENRIKTTE ROUSSEAU.

EASY TO MAKE.

A Pretty, Dainty and Convenient Toilet Table. As pretty tihd dainty a toilet table as any woman could wish and one th ,. would delight the heart of a young gi-' is Bhown in the accompanying illust—i tion. First select an oroinary kitohtable of medium size. Half way up th*

A TOILET TABLE.

legs have a shelf fitted, which will be found to be an excellent place to store out of the sight the various odds and ends of a girl's toilet. The floor space beneath will serve as a closet for shoes, slippers and the like.

First cover the top of the table with Bilesia of any color desired. Make a scant frill of the same, reaohing to the floor, and tack to the edge of table top. On this have a very full ruffle of dotted swiss, finished at the bottom with a wide hem. For the top of table make a cover the exact size of white linen lawn embroidered in dainty blossoms and finish with full frill of lace. The flowers should be seleoted with regard to the color chosen for lining. If yellow is used, buttercups, small single roses or daffodils would be desirable if blue, forgetmenots, blue gentians or bachelor's buttons. Make along narrow cushion, known as a yard cushion, carrying out the same design as the cover and edge with very full ample ruffle of lace. Finish at the corners with many loops of baby ribbon the shade of the flowers embroidered on the linen. For the top take a Japanese parasol and cut it directly in half. This will form a sort of cup from which to hang the curtains. From the top of table to the point where the parasol is to hang stretch and tack to the wall silesia the same color as is used to cover the table. Over this put dotted swiss laid in plaits or gathered top and bottom and secure to the wall with! small gimp tacks. Hang upon this a I

RDQTO"

iHSpiss

minor with white enamel frame or gilt ,A.'oldthelc6Jf

if desired at the height required. Make curtains of the dotted swiss and edge with either a fall frill or cotton ball edging. Hang these to the parasol by I means of little picture rings screwed into each stick and hooks secured to the curtains. Lay plaits in the curtains when each hook is secured, so that it will not sag between the points where it is attached. Tie the curtains back with satin ribbon of the same shade as the lining, and the toilet table will be complete. Of course other materials than swiss may be used. Tambour muslin, fish net, white and gold oriental crapes will all prove satisfactory. The table is very easy of construction and is dainty and decorative enough to be an acceptable addition to any young lady's

MA&TEABUB.

SSMi

f'ts

NEW SPRING GOODS.

Dre» Materials, Silk Waists, Trimmings and Other Novelties. [Special Correspondence.]

NEW YOKE, Jan. 24.—Crepon is among the newest of the spring dress goods, and while there are some new effects the general 'run of it is the same as that of three and four seasons ago. For separate skirts nothing is prettier except black satin duQhesse or moire, Even the much vaunted moire velours looks poor and common beside it. The? new crepons are rather more solid and the craped surface closer, which is good thing, as they tfill not sag out of shape like the old ones. The crinkles are as fantastic as ever. Some of the new crepons are in plaid designs, with two to three tones or colors only, and

WHIPCORD AND BEDFORD TAILOR MADE COSTUMES. they are of delicate and pleasing choice. Old rose is one of the fashionable colors for spring and summer, and I think, too, that we are going to have some Vcrushed strawberry" and "crushed raspberry" shades again. They are soft and pleasing when suitably trimmed and in the crepon weaves I think will prove unusually attractive. I saw some veiling and some challie in those shades, but they were manufacturers' samples, so that they can be mentioned as only possibilities. The plaid crepons have very delicate colorings and novel kinds of plaid, obtained by fine lines of different colors crossing each other and brought into almost confusing irregularity by the orape weave, yet the general effect shows a well defined plaid. These are very expensive goods, though 44 inches wide. They will retail at about $3 a yard.

Among the new trimmings I find a new lace called "spider web." It is very odd, though not looking the least like a spider's work. This is to be used to trim the light muslins and lawns, though valenoiennes will be in even better demand. Some of the silk waists for dressy wear are fairly smothered with lace and insertions, some of them run with ribbons. One of dainty figured taffeta had such a fluff of lace on the square collar and revers. Down tlie front is a vest of china crape, whichis also used for cravat bow and a belt and bow. Plain silk bodices in French style, or with a slight pouched effect in front, will be offered in great variety. In some cases there will be seven of these from white to deep red, running through the gamut of colors, and those who can afford it will buy them all, so as to have a variety. One handsome black skirt answers to wear with them all. They have separate collars and cuffs and are held in by very fancy belts of leather or velvet and metal, or in some cases elaborate metal belts which are sewed over ribbon to matoh eaoh different color. Enormous buckles often adorn the front, sometimes set with imitation jewels. Plaid silk waists are cut and made so that the most of the design is on the bias. There are cloth blouse bodices, also some made of cashmere and plaid poplins. These will be worn among those of silk, satin and velours until it is time for the thin ones. The ootton and gingham, seersucker and lawn and Other thin materials are all shown in so many different designs of shirt waists that no one pen could do justice to them all, but I must mention one novelty, and that is the Garibaldi blouse. This is made of deep red cash mere and has straps down the shoulder from the neck to the sleeve. The material is gathered full to these straps both front and back, and also between them, and the fullness is gathered into a belt,

BODICES AND BELT.

but falls over blouse fashion all around, though not far enough to hide the belt

I like a red flannel shirt, and the oollar may be a "torn down" or a simple band to button a white one to. The sleeves are bishop shape, but not very full.

Whatever kind of oollar is worn, there should be a black surah Windsor tie put up in a drooping bowknot This is bound to be a popular blouse, particularly valuable for all outdoor sports.

The new straw hats for summer and late spring are ashing out fart, and they are nearly all of the leghorn, chip, tuscan and milan braids^ without or openwork. OLIVE HARPKB.

TIM Autocrat of the Oecaatoo. He—Darling, I must insist upon having the day definitely decided.

She—Then you'll have to go and my dressmaker. —New York Journal,

TEBBE HAUTE SA'I'UliDAV EVES IN MAIL, ,T NUARY 29, 18!IS.

Her Identification.

"There," she said as she finally got the check properly indorsed and handed it to the paying teller, "I'd like to have the money, please."

The young man scanned it carefully and then looked at her. "Is there anything wrong with, it?" she inquired apprehensively. "No, I'm sure it's all right. Only we have our rules here, and before we can let you have the money you vill have to be identified." Cf "But the friends I am visiting took a trip out into the country with my mother this morning." "Then you will have to wait till tomorrow. "But I need the money to do some shopping with this afternoon." "I'm very sorry." "It's absolutely necessary to be identified?" she asked plaintively. "Absolutely." "Well, I suppose I can manage it. Will the bank be open for an hour?" "Yes." "Then I'll hurry home and put on my evening gown. It's a great deal of trouble, but it's the dfcly way, and I'm glad I happened to think of it." "I don't quite understand." "Why, I have a strawberry mark on my right shoulder, and everybody who has read anything at all knows there isn't any better identification than a strawberry mark."—Washington Star.

TlieBirtliof tlie "Greater" "New York. With the dawn of the new year the "Greater" New York is u&hored into the world a full grown giant. The problem of municipal government in this country is to be put to the supremest test on the grandest scale. Within its limits is contained a population rqual to that of thirteen of our sovereign states at the last census, and as large as that of the original thirteen states when tho union was organized. Provisions for the life {ind health of this vast vast multitude of nil nations and climes Is an unsolved enigma, but profiting by the experience Of half a century's success, thousands of sufferers in New York and elsewhere can bo wrested from the grasp of that agonizing complaint. rheumatism, by the timely and systematic use of Tlostetter's Stomach Bitters, which is, moreover, a preventive of malaria and kidney trouble, and a sovereign curative of Ih'er complaint, constipation, dyspepsia, debility, sick headache and nervousness. It is an admirable appetizer and promoter of sleep, hastens convalesence. and counteracts the infirmities of age &

The Calligraphy of the Dumas.

Both the Dumas' hands are those of busy men, but the elder Dumas could go on forever. He never stopped to punctuate. One of his literary canons was that a clear style punctuates itself. There is a good deal in this. The son never missed a comma, semicolon, colon or full stop. He had not the father's facility, which resembled a tropical vegetation at the end of the rainy season.

The younger Dumas beat his brains terribly and forced tbem to bring forth plays. But his letters were jeux d'esprit. He ought to have. been a preaching monk or an advocate. He liked to preach and point morals and to kick his fair penitents to give them real cause to ory. But he was not the brute he liked to pass for being. Nothing can bo more refined than his handwriting. The original manuscripts of his plays are scarcely legible, the corrections and erasures are so numerous. But he did not let the copyist or indeed any stran ger see them, but rewrote and added pungent and pregnant sentences as he did so. The first thoughts of some au thors are the best they, were the worst of Dumas fils unless when he was an swering a letter. Answering, mind, was then a case of steel responding to flint. Sparks flew. If there was an ex plosive about, it went off.—London Truth.

Cure for rheumatism or neuralgia. Buy a 35 cent bottle of Salvation Oil and use it according to directions. It will cure the worst case.

George Eliot.

Much surprise has been expressed at the keen sense for business shown in the letters of George Eliot quoted in Mrs. Oliphant's book about the Blackwoods. £ut it turns out that the letters were really dictated by George Henry Lewes, who was an able business man and looked after her affairs eo closely that, in spite of the comparatively small bulk of her work, she left a large fortune behind her, all of it earned by her pen during a career of 21 years.,,

Rheumatism Cured in a Day. "Mystic Cure" for Rheumatism and Neuralgia radically cures in 1 to 3 days. Its action upon the system is remarkable and mysterious. It removes at once the cause and the disease immediately disappears. The first dose greatly benefits. 75 cents. Sold by Jacob Baur, Seventh and Main Sts., Cook, Bell & Black, and all druggists In Terre Haute.

To Cur© Constipation Forever, Take Cascarets Candy Cathartic. 10c or 25c. If C. C. C. fail to cure, drusKists refund money.

Many People Cannot Drink *3 coffee at night. It spoils their sleep. You can drink Grain-O when you please and and sleep like a top. For Grain-O does not stimulate it nourishes, cheers and feeds. Yet it looks and tastes like the best coffee. For nervous persons, young people and children Grain-O is the perfect drink. Made from pure grains. Get a package from your grocer to-day. Try it in place of coffee. 15 and 25c. $100.

Dr. K. Detchon's Antl Diuretic May be worth to you more than 1100 if you have a child who soils bedding from incontenence of water during sleep. Cures old and young alike. It arrests the trou bleat once. fl. Sold by all druggists in Terre Haute, Ind.

Edocate Tow Bowela With Qucaret*. Candy Cathartic, core constipation forever. 10c, 25c. If C. C. fall, druggist* refund money.

Rheumatism

^Pains Were So Severe They Prevented Sleep—Completely Cured by Hood's Sarsaparilla-Scrofula

Bunches Disappeared For seven years or more I had rheumatism and could not rest well at night. My left limb pained me so that I could not steep. I obtained no relief from medicine until I began taking Hood's Sarsaparilla which has entirely cured me." MRS. J. A. FURQESON, 116 Sycamore St., Terre Haute, Indiana. "We have found Hood's Sarsaparilla to be all it is recommended to be. It has cured my husband of rheumatism. Large lumps appeared back of my little boy's ears, and we gave him Hood's Sarsaparilla. In a short time these eruptions disap peared, and he was entirely cured." MRS. HATTIE FREY, 184 Vincennes Street, New* Albany, Indiana. Remember

JNiei

Get a well-known pharmaceutical remedy,

Ely's Cream Balm

IV%

«f,

ffeli

It is quickly Absorbed. Gives Relief at once.

sk-

The Aristocracy of Wealth.

"Mamma, the De Smiths are saying that they are richer than we." "What nonsense, child! Our suburban residence is assessed at 485 times its real value, while theirs is assesse at barely 828 times its real value. Detroit Journal.

Keep it in the house and it will sKVe you many an anxious moment during the changes of season and weather we refer to Dr. Bull's Cough Syrup, the best remedy for cough and cold.

Fresh

Wholesale.

Retai1

9^ Sarsaparilla

Hood's.'

Is the best—iu fact the One True Blood Purifier. All druggists. $1 six for $5. Get only Hood's.

U/wl'c Plllc

cure Liver 1,135 easy 1:0

1 lUUU ri'15 take, easy to operate. 26c,

H6M is Wealth.

M*ftv

BRAHA

TREATMENTS

DO*. E. C. WEST'S

NERVE AND BRAIN TREATMENT

THE ORIGINAL, ALL OTHERS IMITATIONS, la Boldnndor positive Written Guarantee,

denee,Nervousness, Lassit.udo, all Drains, Youthful Errors, or Excessive U^o of Tobacco, Opium, or liquor, which leads to Misery. Consumption, Insanity and Death. At store or by mail, $1 a box six for $5 -with written guarantee to core or reftind money, sample package, containing days treatment, with full instructions, 25 cents. Ono sample only sold to each person. At store or by mail.

C5£TRed Label Special Extra Strength. For Impotenoy, Loss ofW# Power, Lost Manhood, Sterility or Barrenness.! ,$1 a box six for $5, with [written guarantee

•_ ___ to cure in 303aye. At stove' ©EFOREor by mail. Ap Geo. W. J. Hoffman, successor to Gulick & Co., sole agent., cor. Wabash ave. and Fourth St., Terre Haute.

H7L. STEES & CO.

Funeral Directors

and Embalmers.

Siisll

fit.

29 North Fourth St. TERRE HAUTE, IND. TELEPHONE 304.

A Local Disease A Climatic 1^'jAffection

Nonung but a local remedy or change of climate will cure it.

IflWEVEit

COLD'N HEAD

Opens and cleanses the Nasal Passages, allays Inflammation, heals and protects the Membrane, restores the Senses of Taste and Smell. NoCociine, no mercury, no injurious drug. Pull size, 50c: trial size. 10c. At druggists or by mail. ELV BROTHERS. 56 Warren St.. New York.

WANTED'AGENTS

BOTH MEN AND WOMEN

„ou

are willing to work, we can give you employment with GOOD PAY, and you can work all or part time, and at home or traveling. The work is Ll6HT AND EASY. WRITE AT ONCE for terms, etc., to

The Hawks Nursery Company,

MILWAUKEE, WIS."

New York and Baltimore

E. W. JOHNSON,

Mr. & Mrs. Henry Katzenbach,

Funeral Directors

And Embalmers. Livery and Boarding Stable. All calls promptly attended to. Office open day and night. Telephone 310. Nos, 18-20 N. Third street.

J8AAG BALL & SON, li^fp FUMERAL DIRECTORS, Cor. Third and Cherry streets, Terre Haute Ind., are prepared to execute all orders in their line with neatness and dispatch.

Embalming a Specialty.

Artists* Supplies,

The Independent,

New York. ^'k&:~

More widely and favorably known ttar any other weekly newspaper of the world For nearly fifty years it has held the first place. It has a larger list of famous writ ers than any other three papers.

Table of Contents Weekly: POEMS, CONTRIBUTED ARTICLES,

FINE ARTS, V* SCIENCE,

SURVEY OF THE WORLD, MUSIC, EDITORIALS!

EDITORIAL NOTES,

RELIGIOUS INTELLIGENCE, BIBLICAL RESEARCH, MISSIONS, LITERATURE-BOOK REVIEWS,

FINANCIAL, COMMERCIAL, INSURANCE, OLD AND YOUNG,

STORIES.

PEBBLES AND PUZZLES, WORK IN DOORS AND OUT, PERSONALS.

Subscription $3.00 a Year, or at that Rat for any part of a Year.

SPECIMEN COPIES FREE.

A SPECIAL OFFER.

THE INDEPENDENT, ono year The Century Magazine, one year.. The "Contury Gallery of 100

Portraits"

$3.00 4.00

7.SO

All of the above for $7.50, a saving of, $7.00. The "Century Gallery of 100 Portraits' includes the best likenesses of 100 of the most prominent persons in the world which have appeared in the Century Magazine. Size 9%" 13}£ put up in handsome box delivered free by express. Each portrait ready for framing, and very desirable for Holiday gifts.

A remittance of $\5Q to THE INDKPKNDENT will secure a year's subscription, one year to both THE INDEPENDENT and Century Magazine, and the "Century Gallery of 100 Portraits," delivered free by express.

Write for other special offers.

THE INDEPENDENT, 130 Fulton Street, New York.

News and Opinions

'U.V OF

National Importance

A O N E

CONTAINS BOTH.

"J *E

Daily, by mail, $6 a year Daily and Sunday, by mail, $8 a year

The Sunday Sun

v' rf

Is the" greatest Sunday News-

CATARRH

paper in the world.

Price 5c a copy. By mail, $2 a yr. Address T1IE SUN, New York.

HIGHEST CASH PRICE PAID FOR

Also Tallow, Bones, Grease

OF ALL KINDS,

At my Factory on tho Island southwest of vfc. tho city.. ,,

'HARRISON SMITH.

Office 13 S. Second St.

TERRE HAUTE,

Dead Animals miles of the city.

Store

Flower

Material.

Picture Framing a Specialty.

SOUTH SIXTH. East Side.

Tcffe Haute, In!

The Perfume of Violets

The purity of the lily, the clow of the rose, and the flash of Hebe combine Is Potxoxi'B

vcmdxoas Powder.

IND. within ten

removed free Telephone 73.

A Revolution in Heating

Ileat. Cheerfulness, Economy. Cleanliness, Comfort Cost, Labor, Attention

Til# JklAXIMfJM of j, vt 5s*

J,*

THE MINIMUM of

THE BACKUS PATENT

STEAM RADIATOR AND HEATER jhL l? Portable. Ooen, Reflecting and Steam Radiating.

GAS COMPANY

V' 507 Ohio Street.

We mine oar own coal. First-class for all Domestic Use. Furnace trade solicited. Prices very reasonable. 'Phone 902.

J. N. & GEO. BROADHURST,

Office, 122 South Third.

GEO. HAUCK & CO.

Dealer in all kinds of

O iL,

Telephone 33. 049 Main Street.

DR. R. W. VAN VALZAH, p.,-

Dentistf Office, No. 5 South Fifth Street

mL.

& BABTHOLOMEW, Dentist

Main St. Terre Haute, lad'