Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 28, Number 29, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 15 January 1898 — Page 2

IN SILK AND VELVET.

ARRAYED LIKE SOLOMON IN ALL HIS GLORY*

The Use of

Striking Shapes and Colors Fnr and Braid Wash Spring: Th« Silks For Next

Plaids Are Still Popular.

[Copyright, 1898, by the Author.] Think of three ladies walking abreast arrayed in such gowns as I am going to tell you about and which Solomon in all his glory never dreamed of, thong'i he wore dresses, if we may credit the pictures in the illustrated Biblea One

COVERT TAILOR SUITS

of them had a black silk skirt with large velvet figures upon it and a noisy purple velvet Cossack Russian blouse reaching to the knees. This was trimmed with pointed beover in a shawl collar and cuffs. The next one wore a gown of ruby velvet hanging in heavy folds from a raised draping at the left side, which revealed a ruffled underskirt of taffeta silk mottled in red, yellow, blue and green. There was a short Russian blouse of green velvet with gray fur collar, revers and muff. The next one had a skirt of astonishingly brilliant plaid, where scarlet, blue, garnet, green and yellow besides black stripes fought for ascendency. The prevailing color was red. The waist was a cobalt blue velvet blouse, with green velvet epaulets, stock and revers collar. This opened to show a vest of the same plaid gathered very full and, like the skirt, on the bias. The sight of so much splendor made the passors draw aside and look at it, and yet we see just such colors and combinations everywhere, but seeing them singly is not likely to cause such a sensation.

Just at present fur and braiding are the most popular of all trimmings for all heavy garments, but in less than a short time fringe will be seen everywhere. Fringe is a very graceful garniture for any garment, but it is so apt to catch things one does not wish as additions to one's toilet. One lady went out walking with a Bplendid velvet cape on with fringe around it. At the back there dangled a baby's tin rattle box. The new fringes are made of beads and spangles, and also of deep, heavy knotted silk. One style is full 14 inches deep and is intended to be sewed straight around the skirt like a flounce. Black fringe will be used on gowns of any color. Narrower fringe of the same design as the wide is provided for the ornamentation of basque or waist. Spangles shine everywhere, and narrow and wide gimp trimmiugs have spangles all over them. One black satin dress skirt had spangles sewed on so that the wearer looked as if she had stood under a Bhower of Klondike gold. It was thick and close uenr the waist and grew thinner and more scattering toward the bottom and made a most remarkable gown. Thero are gold, silver and aluminium Bpangles. Turquoise beads, jet beading and steel in many faceted forms are seen on the new set pieces, scroll and bands for application on to the garments. Some fringes for evening gowns have the edge of metallio spangles and beads, particularly in the porcelain blue colors. Others have the fringo of small trailing flowers, buttercups being the favorite. Wide bands of silk are tufted and beaded and edged with a very rich tape fringo sometimos six inches deep. The aluminium spangles are in various colors and sometimes iridesceut, and one finds piece after piece of black net fairly oovered with them. This lace is for

LACS KKT EVENING GOWNS,

drapery, and there is no end to the designs in which they are applied. There are full vest fronts with big bowknots at the neck tnade of fine black net overlaid with white and black chantilly and all the design picked out with fine iridescent spangles. Some lovely flower designs are wrought by different colored beads and spangles on the net. These aluminium, spangles are so light that they may be applied as lavishly as one like®, even to chiffon. There are button# for spring that are almost as bright as jewels. Some are enameled, and some look like fine Turkish filigree, and others are of steel. They are quite large.

I notice among the handsome made tip gowns a desire to have the two sides of the wairt differ in point of trimming in i^me cases of material also. To ute hundreds of large orna-

au»* tl

ments of all sorts of pretty things, chief among them being ^passementerie of black silk, "beaded in all the colors of the zodiac," as one lady aptly expressed it. There are others of yak lace woven with wired chenille in different colors, though that woven of only black and white is by far the nicest. new spring wools there is a pretty wool and silk noil. The most of these are in self color, but beautifully woven, with a very soft and pleasing effect. Some are in fine pinhead checks, with white always as one. There are seven or eight colors. Coverts will have a still greater vogue if one may judge by those now shown. There are nine different colors and shades. For .bicycle suits there is nothing better than coverts, and they are quite as elegant and refined for tailor gowns. There are also several colors and shades of illuminated coverts. Poplins with heavy raised cords in bayadere stripes are also among the new things to arrive, but not yet here. These goods are made cheaper than heretofore, as the filling is fiber of ramie or wood pulp mingled with cotton, but no matter how cheaply it is sold poplin is always a dear gown, as^i|- i^.. subject to so many drawbacks.

In wash fabrics we find lovely ginghams, madras, percales in stripes, checks or polka dots, linens with fine dots and figures in clusters and dimity in all the new colors. These include bright purple, lettuce, blue and cardinal red also white. These have dots large or small in black or white. Some neat pinhead checks in percales have red, blue, black or white polka dots. There are many grenadines in every imaginable design, but the prettiest are checked in various color combinations. White is offered in larger quantities and greater variety of weaves than it has been for several seasons. Piques with fancy openwprk stripes are pretty. Dotted swisses are plentiful. Organdies are exceptionally beautiful with faint and artistic designs of the commoner flowers mostly in stripes. A very silky cotton dress fabric has tinsel lines crossing to form plaids or lengthwise for stripes or just appearing on the surface here and there. Printed grenadines are new and very dainty.

In silks for next season there are some unusually pretty new designs in printed pongees and indias. ,The figures are mostly small, many having dainty pompadour patterns in delicate colors. The bayadere silks have now been arranged in a more taking manner, with waved thick lines instead of the stripes. But what the American woman would not have in her silk gown she has accepted in her sashes. The Roman stripes, too, have invaded some of the silks. It remains to be seen who will wear them. Changeable taffetas with a frosting of white will be among the novel silks. It is now conceded that velours du nord, velours soleil and velours miroir will be worn all through the spring and velvet even more so.

Ribbons are wonderfully beautiful and embrace every possible effect. Plaids are still popular. Taffetas with checks and heavy cords and striped ribbons are all with us, but gauze ribbons will take the first rank. They are striped, plaided, flowered, checked and made iridesoent. Some are feather edged. There are also satin, grosgrain and velvet ribbons for such as like them. All are in vogue when the colors are good.

HENRIETTA ROUSSEAU.

New Game.

With the long winter evenings and the entertainments and parties which they bring comes the old question, "Isn't there something new that we can play?"

It is always difficult to find anythiug altogether fresh and original, and some of the older games, a trifle worked over and freshened up, will be found quite as interesting as anything else.

For instanoe, there are many word games, but not one of them is quite like the little funmaker known as the "word rhapsody.''

In playing this game each of the guests is called upon to choose one word. This word is written upon a little oard furnished by the hostess. It may be an adjective, a verb, a common or proper noun or any other word that may suggest itself. The cards are then gathered up, and the hostess writes all the words on a large piece of white paper with a blue pencil, so that when hung up it can be seen all over the room.

Then each guest is invited to write a short story in which every one of the words appears, all of them being used grammatically and in a manner to make sense. The time of work should be limited to ten minutes. When the stories are complete, the authors are invited to read them aloud, or the hostess collects and reads them herself. The results are often very amusing. The rhapsody also makes a good school exercise.

Training of Children.

Do not coddle your children, for it is a great mistake, and one that is bound to result in great delicacy and discomfort. Boys are often made delicate by overcareful mothers. Girls are still more frequently protected from every blast that blows as though it would kill them instead of helping to make them Strong and healthy. To mothers of young children I would say, send your children out in all weathers but heavy rain, unless they are weak in the chest, then remember that an east wind will do your child no good. A great evil in training girls is that they are not taught to use their muscles. They should do so in moderation, and there will be little fear of "strained backs'! or any other mischief.

on tfc* Wrong Tttdu Sifcllfc:

"Where do yon want to go?" asked the elevator boy.

"I want to go to heaven, my boy/' smilingly answered the Salvation Army man who had stepped inside, "bat you may put me off at the top floor." "Ton must have got in the wrong buildin, mister," rejoined the boy. "There ain't nobody but lawyers on the top flow."—Chicago Tribune.

WOMEN OF THE SOUTH

THEIR ENTRANCE INTO THE FIELD OF HONEST LABOR.

/xtivitj- Among Ladies In a Section Where Work Was Once Considered Unladylike—Competing With Men In

New Channels of Kmployinent.

Before the war there were literally no avenues for self support open to ladies in the south. Teaching was the only conceivable line in which a lady could with proper family pride and dignity support herself, and it was resorted to only when all the male members of the house had passed away and the family reduced to positive need. It did not enter into the minds of southern gentlemen to conceive such a thing as the fact that the women of their name could or would be self sustaining. It is only since the war—and the encroachment has been very gradual—that women h'ave entered the lists with men, and now they compete with them in nearly every field of honest labor. In the large dry goods stores two-thirds of the clerks are women and girls. Men still preside in the heavy dress, goods, carpet and linen departments, and of course as floorwalkers and window dressers. The head book keeper is a man, but his assistants and cashiers are women. Cash girls are as common as cash boys, and when em ployed in a store are employed exclusive ly. They are usually attired in a neat uniform, wearing long aprons on which their numbers are marked. They range from 10 to 15 years of age, at which latter age, if their capacity and tepn of service warrant it, they are promoted to be clerks.

Girls in stores in the south are allowed much more freedom than in the large stores in New York and other metropolitan places. Their hours are shorter, their work lighter, their wages higher. They all live at home or in some reputable boarding houses, lodging houses, and the hand to month discomfort of hurried cheap meals at poor, cheap restaurants do not enter into the life of the southern saleswoman. Twenty or 80 years ago women and girl olerks were few and far between now they cap be' seen in every good sized city, hurrying in throngs to their work eyery morning a little before 7 o'clock.

A large proportion of the teachers in the public schools are women. Many of the clerks in the postoffices are girls. Every large business house, manufac tory and- lawyer's office has its woman stenographer and typewriter. It is only in the railway offices, managing editors' offices and the supreme and United States courts that men are employed as stenographic reporters. The telephone operators are girls. All the large agencies, like Bradstreet's, and the leading insurance companies employ girl shorthand and tyre writers. Of course they do not get as good salaries as men occupying like positions. A case in point will be of interest. A merchant doing a large business in a southern city advertised in the New York papers for an ex* pert stenographer. He had many answers. Finally one suited him—so short, well worded, businesslike, offering such irreproachable references. The letter was signed "Willie ." Hereplied at once, offering a salary of $1,200 per year and urging the applicant to come without delay. In a few days he was surprised to have a delicate, bright faced girl of about 20 years of age walk into his office and announce herself as Willie ready for business. He could not refuse her because the question of sex bad never entered into the contract, and she was a proved experts but he did reduce her salary from the very outset, saying "of oourse he could not pay a girl what a man was worth."

Women printers are becoming general in the southern newspaper and job printing offices, and they work also in the binding, stitching and folding departments. They do also the lighter work in engraving 6nd photographio establishments. Nearly all of the ornamental water color and china painting and crayon drawing is done by women, and they even teach dancing and physical culture classes. At all of the large expositions they are employed as booth keepers and oard distributors. They work in the cotton, glass, box, paper, match, shoe, ready made clothing, patent medicine and all other factoriea Some of the large factories provide comfortable quarters for them.

When one considers the newspaper work in the south, it is there that women are seen at their best. They write on every subject, from a leader to a description of a german, from a sledge hammer book review to an article on lace. Some of the very best articles on the industrial development in the south in the "write ups" of the new mineral towns are by women. They interview mill owners and furnace bosses, railway kings and enthusiastic "boomers" and write of "brown hematite ores," "manganese," "coal," "timber," "iron," "open heart steel," "fertilisers" and "phosphatic deposits" with a freedom and familiarity truly masculine. They succeed well as book agents they are not unduly persistent, and when their bearing is dignified and refined and the book they offer attractive it is hard to refuse them.

Girls are very rarely seen as waitresses in southern hotels and never in res* tanrants or beer gardens. On the whole the working class at the south among women and girls is a remarkably reputable one. They are well behaved and modest, and command the respect of their employers and of all with whom they come in contact

TEBKE HAUTE SATURDAY EVENING- MAIL, JANUARY 15ylS!)8.

MEL R. COLQUITT.

Attic Wit.

"I don't think that new prima donna will do," said the boarder who has the attic room. "She is too much like the furnace here—at least her voice i& "How hi that?** asked Mrs. Hashcroft "Very weak, in the upper register. Indianaix»lis JournaJL

In Sokotra.

The population of the island is made up of several races. On the coast one finds a mongrel blend df Arabs and negroes. Among the mountains the villagers are Bedouin pure and simple, with chocolate colored skins and handsome features. But, taken as a whole, the inhabitants of Sokotra do not impress one favorably. They are extremely greedy, and "robeeah" is a word scarcely ever out of -their mouths. The rupee has ousted the old Maria Theresa dollar from this island, as from other oriental countries, but the islanders are not yet accustomed to the use of the smaller Indian currency, and often looked askance at the 2 anna pieces we offered them for milk or butter. Only once during otfr stay did we meet with any real generosity or hospitality, and that was from an alien, a merchant of Muscat.

Woe to the unhappy traveler whose money gave out in Sokotra, or to the still more hapless mariner cast upon these shores without any possessions. The sultan, it is true, receives £90 a year from the British government and is required by treaty to befriend Englishmen who may be wrecked on this coast, but the abominable treatment we received at the hands of this mean and avaricious ruler would not lead one to expect much in the way of generosity toward poor or penniless outcasts. When we wished tc leave the island before the change of the monsoon had cut off all possibility of such a thing, the sultan prevented any boat from making a bargain with us, in order to force us to employ his own dhow, for the hire of which he demanded the outrageous sum of £120. We ultimately secured the wretched buggalow for £60,an extortionate price.—Longman's Magazine.

The Birth of the "Greater" New York. With the dawn of the new year the "Greater" New York is ushored into the world a full grown giant. The problem of municipal government in this country !s to be put to the supremest teat on the grandest scale. Within its limits is contained a population equal to that of thirteen or our Sovereign states at the last census, and as large as that of the original thirteen states when the union was organized. Provisions for the life and health of this vast vast multitude of all nations and climes is an unsolved enigma, but profiting by the experience of half a century's success, thousands of sufferers in New York and elsewhere can bo wrested from the grasp of that agonizing complaint, rheumatism, by the timely and systematic use of Hostetter's Stomacn Bitters, which is, moreover, a preventive of malaria and kidney trouble, and a sovereign curative of liver complaint, constipation, dyspepsia, debility, sick headache and nervousness. It is an admirable appetizer and promoter of sleep, hastens convalesence, and counteracts the infirmities of age.

Filling a Tooth.

"How many times do you suppose a dentist strikes each pieoe of gold that he puts into a oavity?" asked a recent fugitive from the ohair of dental torment. "You can form some estimate by my count today. On one piece of gold I oounted 80 blows of the dental hammer. When the blows were struck in groups —a number of quiokly repeated strokes and an interval—I could not count, but at one time, with even strokes, I counted 80."—New

York Times.

ir fc* »J*,* Ifgrj C'.' The JPrayerv Fitted. At a church in Lenox last rammer the pulpit was supplied by an assistant olergyman. One Sunday in the course of his sermon this minister told hoWa man had amassed a large amount of money simply by prayer, going on to give the incidents of the case. A titter ran through the congregation when the minister, after dwelling on the fact that prayer alone had brought about this man's fortune, placed his hands together and, looking upward in a very prayerful attitude, said, "Lord, teaoh us how to pray 1"—Troy Times.

"I always let a cold go as it comes"—one says which means that he overworks the the system in getting rid of a cold rather than assist it by using Dr. full's Cough Syrup.^

Who can fail to take advantage of this offer. Send 10 cents to us for a generous trial size or ask your druggist. Ask for Ely's Cream Balm, the most positive catarrh cure. Full size 50 cents.

ELY BROS., 56 Warren St., N. Y. City. I suffered from catarrh of the worst kiod ever since a boy, and I never hoped for cure, but Ely's Cream Balm seems to do even that. Many acquaintances have used it with excellent results.—Oscar Ostrum, 45 Warren Ave., Chicago. 111.

Rheumatism Cured In a Day. Mystic Cure" for Rheumatism and Neu ralgia radically cures in 1 to 3 days. Its action upon the system is remarkable and mysterious. It removes at once the cause and the disease immediately disappears. The first dose greatly benefits. 75 cents. Sold by Jacob Baur. Seventh and Main Sts., Cook, Bell & Black,, and all dragglsta.ln Terre Haute.

Wtio are injured by the use of coffee. Recently there has been placed in all the grocery stores a new preparation called GRAIN-O, made of pure grains, that takes the place of coffee. The most delicate stomach receives it without distress, and but few can tell it from coffee. It does not cost over as much. Children may drink it with great benefit. 15 cts. and 25 cts. per packagc. Try it. Ask for GRAIN-O.

SIOO. W

Dr. E. Detchon's Anti Diuretic May be worth to you more than $100 if you have a child who soils bedding from incontinence of water during sleep. Cures old and young alike. It arrests the trou bleat once. tl. Sold by all druggists in Terre Haute, Ind.

Rebecca Wilkinson, of Brownsvalley, Ind., says: "I have been in a distressed condition for three years from nervousness, weakness of the stomach, dyspepsia and indigestion until my health was gone. 1 had been doctoring constantly with no relief. I bought one bottle of South American Nervine, which did me more good than any ISO worth of doctoring I ever did in my life. I would advise every weakly person to use this valuable and lovely medicine a few bottles of it has cured me completely. I consider it the grandest medicine in the world." Warranted the mdst wonderful stomach and nerve cure ever known. Sold by all druggists in Terre Haute, Ind.

Do people buy Hood's Sarsaparilla In preference to any other,—in fact almost to the exclusion of all others?

Because

They know from actual use that Hood's is the best, i. e., it cures when others fail. Hood's Sarsaparilla is still made under the personal supervision of the educated pharmacists who originated it.

The question of best is just as positively decided in favor of Hood's as the question of comparative sales.

Another thing: Every advertisement of Hood's Sarsaparilla is true, is honest.

Hood's

^Sarsaparilla

Is the One True Blood Purifier. All druggists. $L Prepared only by C. I. Hood & Co., Lowell, Mass. rkait are the only pills to take TLOOQ S RLLLS with Hood's Sarsaparilla.

Established 1861 Incorporated 1888

('lift & Williams C».

ffS Successors to Clift, Williams & Co.,

"MAMJFACTOKERS OF -it"

ss4

Vw'

It opens and clean-

ie»|ie

aKJ's

*4 ~1

lluaii lilimk Elt

AND DEALERS IN

Lumber, Latb. Shingles, (tWk Paints, (ita

AND BUILDERS' HARDWARE,

-1"Mulberry St., Cor. Ninth. ±S, (j J. H. WILLIAMS, President.

J" M-CLIFT,

V£

Sec'y and Treas

H. L. STEES & CO.

S®

Funeral Directors

and Embalmers.

North Fourth St. TERRE HAUTE, IND.

TELEPHONE 304.

CATARRH

Ask your

.Druggist

for a generous 10 CENTg! TRIAL SI

Ely's Cream Balm

contains no cocaine, mercury nor any other injurious drug. ,, It is tjuickly absorbed. Gives relief at once.

pfSCOLD

IlLY BROTHERS, 50 Warren St., New York.

WANTED

BOTH MEN AND WOMEN.

The Hawks Nursery Company,

MILWAUKEE, WIS.

New York and Baltimore

Fresh £?ats-1?' Oysters

E. W.iibHNSON,

IE BRUM'S

let. Cure guaranteed in 1 to 3 days. Small plain package, by mail, $I.OO.

Sold only by Geo. W.'J. Hoffman, successor to Gulick & Co., sole agent, cor.

CURE

Wabash ave. and Fourth St., Terre Haute.

Mr. ft Mrs. Hesry Kstzenbach,

Funeral Directors

And Embalmers, Livery and Boarding Stable. All calls promptly attenaea to. Office open day and night. Telephone 210. Nos. 18-20 N. Third street.

T8AAC BALL & SON, FUNERAL DIRECTORS.

Cor. Third and Cherry streets, Terre Haute Ind., are prepared to execute all orders in their line with neatness and dispatch.

Embalming a Specialty.

N. HICKMAN,

TJI5rX)SiaT-A.K:E!ia

1212

Main Street.

All calls will receive the most careful attention. Open day and night.

A Handsome Complexion

is one of the greatest charms a woman can possess. Panola's OOKVUBXIO* F^wnsa gives it.

The^ Independent.

NeWYorkf.,^.

More widely and favorably known than any other weekly newspaper of the world. For nearly fifty years it has held the first place. It has a larger list of famous writ ers than any other three papers.

Table of Contents Weekly: POEMS, CONTRIBUTED ARTICLES,

FINE ARTS,

SURVEY OF THE WORLD, MUSIC, EDITORIALS,

EDiTORIAL NOTES,

RELIGIOUS INTELLIGENCE, BIBLICAL RESEARCH, MISSIONS, LITERATURE—BOOK REVIEWS,

FINANCIAL, COMMERCIAL, INSURANCE, OLD AND YOUNG,

STORIES.

PEBBLES AND PUZZLES, WORK IN DOORS AND OUT, PERSONALS.

Subscription $3.00 a Year, or at tbat Rat for any part of a Year.

SPECIMEN COPIES FREE.

SPECIAL OFFER.

THE INDEPENDENT, one year $3.00 The Century Magazine, one year.. 4.00 The "Century Gallery of 100

Portraits" 7.50

DEAD

HEAD

flammation. Heals and protects the Membrane. Restores the Senses of Taste and Smell. Full Size 50c. Trial Size 10c. at Drug-

„ou

are willing to work, wo can give you employment with GOOD PAY. and you can work all or part time, and at home or traveling. The work Is Ll6HT AND EASY WRITE AT ONCE for terms, etc., to

015

MAIN ST.

FOR EITHER SEX This remedy re-

aaires

$14.50

All of the above for $7.50, a saving of $7.00. The "Century Gallery of 100 Portraits" includes the best likenesses of 100 of the most prominent persons in the world which have appeared in the Century Magazine. Size 9% 13K put up in handsome box delivered free by express. Each portrait ready for framing, and very desirable for Holiday gifts.

A remittance of $~50 to TIIE INDEPENDENT will secure a year's subscription, one year to both THE INDEPENDENT and Century Magazine, and the "Century Gallery of 100 Portraits," delivered free by express.

Write for other special offers. THE INDEPENDENT, 130 Fulton Street, New York.

News and Opinions

National Importance

The

Sun

A O N E

CONTAINS BOTH.

Daily, by mail, $6 a year Daily and Sunday, by mail, $8 a year

The Sunday Sun

Is the greatest Sunday Newspaper in the world.

Price 5o a copy. By mall, $2 a yr. Address TIIE SUN, Now York.

HIGHEST CASH PRICE PAID FOR

Also Tallow, Bones, Grease OF ALL KINDS,

At my Factory on the Island southwest of the city.

HARRISON SMITH,

Office 13 S. Second St.

jf? TERRE HAUTE, IND. Dead Animals removed free within ton miles of the city. Telephone 73.

A Revolution in Heating

'f Heat. 3.%-t^ I Cheerfulness,

THE MAXIMUM of-( Economy. I Cleanliness, Comfort

Cost. f.t

THE MINIMUM of Lubor, (Attention

XHE

no change of

BACKUS PATENT

STEAM RADIATOR AND HEATER Portable. Open. Reflecting and Steam Radiating.

GAS COMPANY

57 Ohio Street*

CD Iv

We mine oar own coal. First-class for all Domestic Use. Furnace trade solicited. Prices very reasonable. 'Phone 202.

J. N. & GEO. BROADHURST,

T\ Office, 122 South Third.

GEO. HAUCK & CO.

Dealer in all kinds of

O A JL,

Telephone 33. 040 Main Street/*

DR. R. W. VAN VALZAH, jF

Dentist, Office, No. 5 Sooth Fifth Street

r)B. L.H. pABTHOLOMEW.'

Dentist 8i?".

071 Main St. Terre Haute, lad*.