Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 28, Number 28, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 8 January 1898 — Page 3

FASHION IN THE EAST

THERE ARE NO WOMEN DRESSMAKERS IN CHINA-

vv'CSf

A a CIbh Costa About Forty Cents, bat a Really HandBom-* Salt Can Be Had For Two Dollars.

Bnifiwu Methods.

Woman, lovely woman, is very much the same the world over. In every city of Christendom her eyes turn toward Paris and her thoughts to the latest mode of that illustrious capital of fashion.

In the Flowery Kingdom they turn to the great metropolis of Canton, out of whose workshops and ateliers come garments of equal style and splendor if not of equal grace and beauty. Ignorant male travelers to the contrary notwith standing, there is fashion in the far east just the same as there is at home.

A keen Chinese observer can tell even more from a woman's clothes about the wearer than can be done at home. Little peculiarities invisible to western eyes reveal the province where the clothes were made equally intangible things show her status and rank. I be- .. lieve there are Europeans who have mastered these mysteries, at least have been told so, although I have never yet met one.

There are no women dressmakers in China. They are all men, and every one with the importance and arroganoe of Mr. Worth of Paris.

Woo to the customer who dare criticise their work or suggest improvements. So superior are they to the other sex that their clerks are men. There are any number of these establishments in the oity of Canton. When you have been to one of the great ones, you have been to all.

In front of the house hangs a great signboard in scarlet and gold. It is a foot or two wide and reaches from the sidewalk up to the second or third story. The characters read: "Happiness and prosperity. The house of golden splendor, women's dresses." There are no show windows or casements of any kind. The entire front is open to the thoroughfare. There is a low and wicked railing across the entrance, however, which bids defiance to sneak thieves and compels ingress and egress through a gnto as narrow as the one mentioned in Scripture. When you pass this, you find yourself in a large and vory neat store some 20 feet wide, 80 feet long and 15 to 20 feet high. The walls are covered with shelving from floor to ceiling, and these seemed filled to tho last available inch with bundles done up in paper of all sorts of colors. These bundles contain each one article of clothing and are supposed to be proof against moths, white ants, cockroaches and the other insect pests of the far east.

Upon each bundle in clearly written Chinese characters is a brief memorandum of the contents and the price. A Kmall ebony counter at either end permits tho exhibition of the goods* and light bamboo ladders enable the clerks to reach tho upper shelves about the place. There is quite an army of employees, who seem half bookkeepers and half salesmen. Thero is a larger army of customors examining and buying goods. Thero are no shoppers. Shopping seems to be a mysterious modern vice that has reached its most deadly stage in tho leading cities of Uiielt Sam. If a Chinese lady were asked to go shopping, sho would first want tho thing explained to her and then would probably scream and run away under the impression that her interlocutor was raving mad.

Tho people of the establishment are vory polite and bring down everything which tlioy think approaches your dosiro. They first reach down the bundle and open it upon one of the counters. The folding of these bundles is extremely ingenious. They are so made up of salient and re-entering angles tba« when tho last triangular point is folded over and forced into itself it is impossible for any living thing or even for dust to get inside of it On one occasion I dropped bundle of tins sort overboard aud fished it out again. After drying the outside I opened it and to my surprise and delight found that the water had not penetrated to the goods within.

The bundlo, opened, discloses the garment inside neatly folded according to the conventional system employed by the Chiuese trade. There is not much variety to woman's garments in China, so far as general form is concerned. She wears a pair of trousers which always come from the upper waist to the ankles and a coat which is cither long or short. In these bundles, therefore, if it is not inexpressibles it is a coat, and vice versa. The cheapest goods are made of light thin muslin or cotton cloth dyed black, browu or blue. Other colors are also used, but to no such extent as the three first named. The trousers are unbroken and are held in place by a string or belt. The coat is also a single piece and is fastened with little frogs. In cheap materials the frogs are plain cotton cord of the same color as the suiting

A costume of the cheap class costs usually 40 cents, but sometimes it is sold as low as 30. Next in grade are those made from finer stuffs, sheetings, drills, teaclotb, long ells camelots and Indian muslins. These range from 60 cents to TO ceuts. Here the button of the frog Is made of brass, glass or dark wood and is so arranged that it can be taken off and replaced easily and quickly. Then como suite made of light woolens, fine flannels, Japanese crapes, canton flannel, alpaca, camel's hair and grasacloth, These range from #5 cents to $2 In these the frogs are more elaborate, and the frog buttons are gilded or made out of pretty hollow metal. Hera, too, come in special suits, rain coats and trousers which are sometimes waterproof, but more frequently aqua pellent, and winter clothing, which in its simplest form is made from cloth heavily nadded with oottoo and in more lux

urious forms of any fine goods lined with fur. The prices of these naturally vary to the greatest extreme. A suit made of sheeting thickly padded with cotton and tufted can be secured for $1, while the silk coat liaed with tiger cub fur or other handsome skin will often cost as high as $75. The more expensive articles are worn by the wives of the great officials, who are not 1 per cent of the entire population.

Next in the scale is silk apparel. This is what maketh glad the Celestial heart. The poorest boatwoman saves up her money cent by cent until she has accumulated the amount necessary to buy a coveted silk robe. She will even wear a silk coat with ragged cotton trousers, but a silk coat she must have as an evidence of respectability. The variety of silks is something perfectly wonderful. You can get pretty silk from the province of Fukien in delicate colors, which makes exquisite underwear as well as fetching shmmer dresses, for 14 cents per yard. From this the prices range upward. For 25 and 30 cents you can get handsome, finely finished silks that will last five or six years. Then there are bamboo silks from the north, which are so called because each thread is as strong, firm and durable as the fibers of that wonderful wood. There are Shanghai silks with a grain similar to our own grosgrain, but with a gloss like the finest satin. There are bright silks and dull silks, heavy and light, smooth finished and rough finished and in more colors than Were ever dreamed of in the looms of Lyons.

The moment you buy a robe the fact is noted, not alone in the salesbook, but also in what might be called an or: der book, and the very next day a dupli cate of your purchase is under way. It is finished as rapidly as possible so that the assortment in the store may be kept up at its proper limit. This is a good rule for the styles which sell rapidly. As to other styles, they remain upon the shelves only heaven knows how long. Such institutions as the bargain counter aud sales of shop worn and shelf worn goods are unknown in the eccentric east. On the other hand, they have a custom unspeakably dear to the Mongolian mind. Toward the close of the year nearly every tradesman wants a large amount of ready cash. Sometimes it is to pay off the debts of the business and start the new year free and clear, sometimes it is for the charities and festivals for wliich the land is famous. They then mark down their older goods a reasonable amount, and when this does not bring in enough money they keep it up the first two or three weeks of the new year. In this way there are bargains and,of course, bargain hunters and bargain buyers.

The business is almost entirely a cash business. Credits are given, but so rarely as to occasion remark. The dealer is satisfied with a small profit, and neither tries to make a fortune in a single year nor to pose as a philanthropist like some of the goodly people of Philadelphia. Marghkrita Arlina Hamm.

COUNTESS LICHTERVELDE.

Pleasing: Personality of the New Belgian minister's Wife.

Count G. do Lichtervelde, the new minister from Belgium, is one of the tallest and finest looking men in the diplomatic corps at Washington. When he was presented to President Cleveland for the first time last February, he pleasantly referred to his stay in this oountry some 25 years ago in the beginning of his diplomatic career. He did not bring his family with bim last year. When he cf*no back in November, ho was accompanied by his wife and tho youngest of their five sons, a handsome boy of 7 years, who is at sohool iu Washington. The other boys are pursuing their studies at home, the eldest, about 21, intending to follow in his father's footsteps.

Count and Countess do Lichtervelde are members of two of the oldest and most distinguished families in Belgium.

COUNTESS t»e UCHTERVfiLDE,

The countess' ancestors were the Counts Je Spangen, and her grandfather was a general in the Austrian army. Her mother was a beautiful Spanish lady of noble lineage. Her husband has filled many important diplomatic positions, has represented his king at the Swedish, Italian and other courts, and everywhere the countess' pleasing personality has won for her many friends. She il slight and graceful, of medium height and has a bright, sparkling face. Her dark, curly hair is* sprinkled white, and her gray eyes dance merriment when she is amused. talks entertainingly in several guages, speaking English quite fluently, is fond of outdoor life and greatly emjoys wheeling about the broad smooth streets of Washington. Not long before leaving home she took up photography and is already quite an expert. She goes out nearly every day with her cam* em and has a fine collection of views.

with with She lan-

JULIETTE M. BABBITT.

Miss Jane Addams of the Hull House I settlement in Chicago has been appoint* ed postmaster of substation No. 10 in that city salary, $2,400. Now Miss

Addams will be able to make practical application of still more of her philan1 throoio

A ROSEROOM.

How a Clever Young: Housewife Has

A COZY ARRANGEMENT1

were drawn out, making a full fringe four inches deep. This room, heated by a register, has neither fireplace nor mantelshelf, so the blank space has been turned into a very charming, cozy corner. Two wooden shelves across the chimney breast tyre supported at each end by a succession of smaller shelves and stained to match the rest of the woodwork. A box divan with hinged top is fitted in the space between the supports. Two similar divans are under the windows, and a large packing case, divided into four sections, serves as a dressing table in the angle by the window. The rest of the furniture consists of an iron bed stead painted oak color, an oak chiffo nier, a washstand, a shaker rocker, a small table and two chairs.

A piece of rich blue cretonne, thickly powdered with half blown pink roses the size of a quarter, was picked up for 12cents a yard. It made the spread for the bed, covers for the divans and cushions and drapery for the dressing case and windows. The bedspread is lined with pink and has a deep flounce all around, just clearing the floor. The square pillows on the bed have white cambric slips, the frills tucked and edged with narrow lace. Above the bed is De Longpre's yard of pink roses, framed in oak and gold. Many other charming rose studies adorn the walls, an especially dainty picture, an overturned basket of pink roses, banging on the chimney breast. A Dresden clock, plaster medallions and vases are attractively., arranged on the upper mantelshelf, a collection of pleasant books filling the lowx The small shelves hold aglow lamp, c«p and saucer, a small ohiua#biscuit jar and a brass kettle with alcohol lamp. The divan, with its cushions and a tabouret near by, supplied with desk pad, paper, ink and pen tray, completes a corner where one may read, write or sew at ease. vj

The dressing case is very pretty and effective. The cretonne is put on in full plaits, a double ruche lined with pink sateen giving a finish to the top. Over it hangs a long mirror, framed in oak and a narrow gilt beading. Cretonne curtains lined with pink are looped back from the glass and tied with big pink bows. These curtains over the glass are draped to form around dome. A small hoop was cut in half and the halves tacked across another hoop. Apiece of cretonne was then gathered to the hoop and drawn up over the frame and tied with a bow. The curtains were sewed to the hoop, and a ruche of cretonne put around it to conceal the joinings and the dome suspended over the dressing case from a large hook.

Three-quarter sash curtains of dotted white muslin hang at the windows, with cretonne valances lined with jrink tacked above.

The rose decoration Is carried out" all through the room. The washstand has a toilet set adorned with roses, the white matting splasher has a bunch of pink roses painted on it in oils, and the shades on the gas globes are pink silk.

TEItRE HAUTE SATURDAY EVENING MAIL, JANUARY 8, 1898.

Fur

nished a Guestroom.

A clever young housewife has just furnished a guestroom entirely with "remnants," one might call them, yet the result is a cozy and attractive apartment. This room is papered in a deep creamy yellow, with an unobtrusive light brown figure, the frieze having a touch of pink. The woodwork and floor are detained golden brown. The large floor rug was made by sewing length? of ingrain carpet and fringing out the ends. This carpet has a small pattern in cream, pink and blue. The small blue "filler" rugs in front of the mantel, bureau and washstand are also homemade. They were first hemmed then the hem was cut and the threads

MaiubMoren.

In a recent issue of this paper there appeared an illustration of an outdoor costume which was copip' from Der Bazar, a German publication. We are informed by the Messrs. Harper & Bros, of New York that the cut is their property, having been copyrighted and first published in Harper's Bazar, dated Oct. 16, 1897. We are glad to thus correct the error and give credit where it is dua

Son day ism.

Swinemnnde, on the Baltic, has strict Sunday laws. Shipmasters who enter the port are fined heavily by the town authorities if they have their ships washed or painted on Sunday or church holidays. As foreigners are not acquainted with the German church calendar they are frequently caught.

Withering.

Caller—Yon call this garden scene "June," but the leaves are all on the ground instead of on the trees.

D'Auber—They were on the trees, irat the picture got such a withering (criticism from the oommittee that they curled up and fell off. Pearson's W«tklv.

The Bells.

It was in thelate John Sartain's magazine that Foe's poem, "The Bells," was first printed. Of Poe's last visit to him in his old Sansom street house Mr. Sartain recently said: "It was on a Monday in 1849. Poe had been locked up in Moyamensing prison over Sunday for intoxication and was completely unstrung. He thought there was a conspiracy to kill him and asked to be hidden. I humored the frenzied poet's hallucination, and for two days he remained in concealment in the Sansom street house. I even went so far as to cut off Poe's mustache, at the latter's request, in order that his fancied enemies might not recognize him." The first draft of "The Bells" consisted of only two stanzas, and for these he was paid $15. A couple of days later he appeared with another verse, and before the poem was pub lished he'had added again to it By this means he received $45 for the poem, and had not the day of publication been near at hand he would probably have kept on adding to it in the hope of re ceiving additional remuneration.—New York Tribune.

Elephant Life In the Jangles.

Without elephants jungles would be virtually impassable. The great beasts area mixture of strength and weakness, of craft and simplicity. The paths through the jungle from village,to village are merely tracks from which the interlacing foliage has been cut and thrust aside and the virgin soil trodden into a black mud. After a rain this mud is many feet deep, and no living creature except an elephant, a buffalo or a rhinoceros could labor through it. The elephant makes his way by lifting one foot at ja time and inserting it deep into the slough in front, withdrawing another with a sound like the popping of a huge champagne cork. Nothing but a ride on an earthquake could be compared with the sensation of being run away with by an elephant. As tor stopping him, some one has well said that you might as well try to stop a runaway locomotive by pulling .with your walking stick on the funnel as seek to check an elephant at such a moment with a goad. —Exohange.

The Birtli of the "Greater" New York. With tho dawn of the new year the

Greater" New York is ushered Into the world a full grown giant. The problem of municipal government in this country is to be put to the supremest test on the grandest scale. Within its limits is contained a population equal to that of thirteen or our sovereign states at the last census, and as large as that of the original thirteen states when the union was organized. Provisions for the life and health or this vast vast multitude of all nations and climes is an unsolved enigma, but profiting by the experience of half a century's success, thousands of sufferers in New York and elsewhere can be wrested from the grasp of that agonizing complaint, rheumatism, by the timely and systematic use of Hostetter's Stomach Bitters, which is. moreover, a preventive of malaria and kidney trouble, and a sovereign curative of liver complaint, constipation, dyspepsia, debility, sick headache and nervousness. It is an admirable appetizer and promoter of sleep, hastens convalesence, and counteracts the infirmities of age.

Oolf Pointers.

In the absence of the regular golf editor the following question from a beginner was referred to the turf editoi for an answer: "In a game of golf is il right to fuzzle your put or is it bettei to fetter on the tee?" The turf editor set his teeth fifmly, stared hard at the wall in front of him,, a few moments and wrote the following reply: "In case a player snaggles his iron it is permissible for him to.fozzle his put, but a better plan would be for him to drop hit guppy into the pringle and snoodle il out with a niblick."—Chicago Tribune.

"Pedalton used to be very fond saying there is no such thing as perfection in life." "Yes. But that was before he bought his new bioyele."—Washington Star. "I've used Dr. Bull's Cough Synip in my ^family for along while, and Wouldn't be without it. I know it's a good- medicine. John Harrison, Postmaster, Guyton, Effingham Co., Ga." lpf§

There Is a Class of People"

Who are injured by the use of coffee. Recently there has been placed in all the grocery stores a new preparation called GRAIN-O. made of pure grains, that takes the place of coffee. The most delicate stomach receives it without distress, and but few can tell it from coffee. It does not cost over as much. Children may drink it with great benefit. 15 cts. and 25 cts. per I»ackag%,,«jTry it. Ask for GRAIN-O. ,. ®rs $100,

Dr. E. D.-tclion's Anti Diuretic

May be worth to you more than $100 if you have a child who soils bedding from incontenence of water during sleep. Cures old and young alike. It arrests the trou bleat once. 11. Sold by all druggists in Terre Haute, Ind.

Rebecca Wilkinson, of Brownsvalley, Ind., says: "I have been in a distressed condition for three years from nervousness, weakness of the stomach, dyspepsia and indigestion until my health was gone. I had been doctoring constantly with no relief. I bought one bottle of South American Nervine, which did me more good than any $50 worth of doctoring I ever did in my life. I would advise every weakly person to use this valuable and lovely medicine a few bottles of It has cured me completely. I consider it the grandest medicine in the world." Warranted the most wonderful stomach and nerve cure ever known. Sold by all druggists in Terre Haute, Ind.

Much in Little

Is especially true of Hood's Pffl% for no medicine ever contained so great curative power in so small space. Tbey are a whole medicine

Hood's

chest, always ready, always efficient, always satisfactory prevent a ookl or fever, cure aQ fihrer ilia, sick, headache, jaundice, The only Pills to take wttfc:

i"*

,etc. Be.

I'a 8a*saparffla.

BEWARE OF MORPHINE.

Mrs. Pinkham

AhItb

10c

iSI

A Convert of the Wheel.

50C 'i 'v, $

25c

,*1'

ifiS

Women to Seek Permanent

Cures and Not Mere Temporary Belief From Pain.)

Special forms of suffering lead many a woman to acquire the morphine habit. One of these forms of suffering is a dull, persistent pain in the side, accompanied by "heat and throbbing. There is disinclination to work, because work only increases the pain.

This is only one symptom of a chain of troubles she has others she cannot bear sg to confide to her physician, for fear of an examination the terror of a.11 sensitive. modest women.

The physician, meantime, knows her condition, but cannot combat her shrinking terror. He yields to her supplication for something to relieve the pain. He gives her a few morphine tablets, with very grave caution as to their use. Foolish woman! She thinks morphine will help her right along she becomes its slave I

A wise and a generous physician had such a case he told his patient he could do nothing for her, as she was too nervous to undergo an examination. In despair, she went to visit a friend. She said to her, Don't give yourself up just go to the nearest druggist's and buy a bottle of Mrs. Lydia E. Pinltham's Vegetable Compound. It will build you up. You will begin to feel better with the first bottle." She did so, and after the fifth bottle her health was re-established. Here is her own letter about it:

I was very miserable was so weak that I could hardly get around the bouse, could not do any work without feeling tired out. My monthly periods had stopped and I was so tired and nervous all of the time.. I was troubled very much with falling of the womb and bearing-down pains. A friend advised me to take Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound I have taken five bottles, and think it is the best medicine I ever used. Now I can work, and feel like myself. I used to be troubled greatly with my head, but I have had no bad headaches or palpitation of the heart, womb trouble or bearing-down pains, since I commenced to take Mrs. Pinkham's medicine. I gladly recommend the Vegetable Compound to every suffering woman. The use of one

bottle will prove'what it can do."—Mrs. Lucy Peasley, Derby Center, Vt.

G. HUDNUT. President. WILLARD KIDDER. Vice-President. Mj! G. A. CONZMAN. Cashier.

Vigo County National Bank

*r""*'*^-

9 5

Capital $150,000. Surplus $30,000.

V"!

I"*•

O E I E A N E

624 Main Street. TERRE HAUTE, IND.

CANDY

CURE CONSTIPATION

^Vhen You Order Your

Get the very best, and that is the product of the

TERRE HAUTE BREWING CO

HJLOOKHERE!

If you are going to build, what is the use of going to see three or four different kinds of contractors? Why not go and see

A, FROMMB,

GJ-eneral Contractor

416 WILLOW STBBBT,

As he employs the best of mechanics in Brick Work, Plastering, Carpentering, Painting, etc., and-will furnish you plans and specifications if wanted.

^ARTIFICIAL

Stone Walks

Motidy«s Coffin.

Leave orders at 1517 Poplar St!, N. W. Cor. Sixth and Willow. 901 Main. Terre Haute, Ind.

O'NEIL & SUTPHEN fW

Machine Works

Manufacturers and Dealers in Machinery and Eleventh and Sycamore Sts.,

S. I*.

Builders Hardware,

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ALL

DRUGGISTS

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283.

Supplies, -Repairs a Terre Haute, Ind.

First* class Tin Work,

1200 li&JLTlSr STBBBT.

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