Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 28, Number 27, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 1 January 1898 — Page 2

THE LATEST STYLES.

NEW COLOR LIKE THAT OF RAW

MOCHA COFFEE.

Ball Gowns and Their Novel Trimming For Dance or Opera Costumes—Neck' wear Fancies—Long Circular Capes.

Materials For 8treet Costumes.

[Copyright, 1897, by the Author.] One of the prettiest coloas that have ever been evolved is that foond in the raw mocha coffee berry. It is dull and indistinct in itself but, no matter what other color is laid beside it, it at once takes on a new beauty, and one seems to understand it all for the first time. With green, pink, scarlet, blue, brown, heliotrope or black it always looks as if that one was the only proper color to set it off until it is seen with another. Just how it happened that so many dif ferent fabrios were simultaneously produced in exactly the same shade of color 1 cannot tell, but it is found in everything. Cloth, when of good quality, is exceptionally handsome in this oolor. Silk net for a ball gown in this tint—for it is really more of a tint than a decided color—over a faint whitish green taffeta was very refined and deli oate. Around the bottom of the skirt was a double bias ruffle, with a trailing wreath of blood red roses along the center, and this extended quite around the skirt. The waist was gathered with a very slight blouse effeot in front and a draped belt of the taffeta. There was a bertha of silk mull with three lines of the red roses across the front and run ning up to the shoulders and ending among the silk mull puffed bows. Ber thas and fine but showy foot trimming are seen on nearly all danoing gowns, particularly those made of light stuff. Much ingenuity is expended upon them. Grape wrought into cookleshell pattern is put on some and ruffles caught up on others into little puffs like the bubbles on a basin of soapsuds. Others are shown where pink silk mull is made into little rosettes, which look like a continuous wreath of roses. Pinked out rose plaitings are also seen. Some of the rose plaitings are out on (he bias and the edges fringed out. They are made very full and are light as thistle down. This kind of trimming is made of very thin, stiff silk. Surah twill works better. It is cut in the proper width on the true bias. A sewing machine needle is broken off at the eye, and the raw edge of the silk is sewed along about half or a .Ythird of an inoh from the edge. This makes the silk fray out into a fringe, and when it is plaited up into the rose plaiting it fs very pretty indeed. Both edges jure done.

One novelty In the trimming of ball gowns is where a dress of white crepe lisse was sewed with pink pearl beads all over. The trimming in question was around the bottom in a festoon made of pink silk mull. The upper line was a gauffered puff less than an inoh wide, with a doubled bias ruffle of the same Vheneath. This was pinched at irregular intervals, giving it a crumpled look that was exceedingly pretty. The wide sash belt was of rioh pink moire ribbon, whoso ends reached nearly to the bottom and ended in a fringe of pearl beads.

The sleoves to this pretty dancing frock were elaborate affairs, made of pink mull, moire ribbon and pearl beads. The bertha had a bib front worked with pink pearls and gold thread.

A new fancy for the adornment of the neok for those who are in full evening toilet is the black velvet dog oollar. These are very becoming alike to the young girl's slender neck and the elderly lady with three chins. Some are made plain and stiffened. Others are sewed upon stretched elastic, and when this is allowed to take its natural dimensions after it is finished it looks like shirring with the edges ruffled. Handsome gold, silver or jeweled buokles fasten thorn. "Wristlets," as those made for the wrists are called, are equally becoming where the arm is exposed, the blaok velvet making the skin appear pure and pearly. Evening gloves are long as ever. Some have no stitching at all on the back of the hand, others are stitched in heavy cords, and others again are beaded, There are many novelties in evening gloves, but some how none pleases as well as do the mous-

FOR DANCS OB OPK&A.

quet&ires. The jeweled and wrought miniature buttons are considered more in the light of pretty curiosities than real gloves intended to be worn. The true gentlewoman does not wear pronounced gloves.

For sortie du bal or opera there is a new design in wraps, which are near* ly all short, though some are long and ample, but the smartest of them all are short A pretty design is a moire, satin or velours in some very light shade and ornamented with ribbon, feather trimWing, light fur or pearl beading with laoe jabots. There is a wide latitude, the (mly requirement being that the oape be short and in military shape. iF&scinators, kepis and dainty hoods are 'all seen. So are laoe mantillas. One hood cmn easily be made. It oon* sUtsaf triangle of liberty «Uk» shimd Si

in the neck' on the bias edge- The middle point is hemmed and plaited a little at the top under a bow of ribbon to match. The two points are turned back to form loops, and bows of ribbon are sewed in front of them to tie. The whole is light and very dainty. Some of the zephyr fascinators have a double knitted row of scallops, each edged with a row of crystal or wax pearl beads.

I notice a growing. preference for the long circular capes lined with Siberian squirrel or other inexpensive fur. They are rich and look most comfortable. They are usually made of fine oloth, tibet, whipcord, coating serge, velours, ottoman silk, reps or in a few cases of velvet itself. They are garnished according to the taste or purse of the wearer, but the preference just now is for skunk borderings. The blouse street costume is still a favorite, but it is no longer possible to evolve anything new for these suits, for many minds and bands have exhausted the list. One new one came as near being novel as one oould be now. The gown and blouse were smoke gray whipcord, trimmed with black titan braid and fur border-

MIDWINTER COSTUMES.

ings also one rever of fur and a lafayette collar. Fur blouses are quite popular with the smart set, but so are those of heavy wool braided in all sorts of ways, most often in half inoh widths.

There are few new goods or designs in the old ones to chronicle, but still there are some. Mohair matelasse is a handsome new stuff. Matelasse means quilted, and the distinguishing mark of this material is that the pattern is raised above the body of the goods. It comes in several different colors. Sometimes the raised design is one color and the rest another, but most often it is all alike. This is a very rich material and makes handsome street costumes. There is a new satin faced diagonal, also shown in all the popular colors of the season. Prunella—the prunella of our great-grandmothers—is offered now as a novelty. Some of it is plain, others in two tones, and more still woven with satin bayadere stripes. Armure with figures and in two tones is a new stuff. So is mohair oheviot velours, which combines the excellencies of all the three goods in one. This has heavy crinkled cords and comes in all the colors. Som* new natte or basket weave mixtures are shown.

They combine the newest colors and have unusually wide threads. There is a novelty of silk boucle over wool, and this is very attractive, but I think not durable. HENRIETTK ROUSSEAU.

HOME DECORATIONS.

How to Paint and Paper a House—Handsome Combinations.

New unpainted wood can be stained oak, walnut or the fashionable green, but it should be recollected that paint covets a multitude of sins, and that a door that will have quite a highly finished appearance when thickly coated with paint and highly varnished will look sadly rough when merely stained. Given tolerably good workmanship and decently seasoned timber, and the latter treatment is decidedly preferable to the former.

The following colors and tints will be found to matoh: First. Woodwork stained walnut brown paper, with large formal design in shades of light yellow freize of anaglypta painted (for drawing room) cream curtains, ©to., turquoise blue and brown.

Second.—Wood word stained green striped paper in two shades of pink frieze rose garland paper in pink and green rose patterned cretonne curtains lined green. For bedroom or small drawing room.

Third. Woodwork painted ivory white paper with mauve irises on ivory ground curtains of plain green corded velveteen. For drawing room.

Fourth.—High wooden dado painted ivory white paper with bright red poppies on ivory ground curtains of red brocade or damask, _For small drawing room. -V

Fifth.—Woodwork painted deep Indian red conventional peony paper ix shades of red deep frieze of red and gold leather paper curtains of gold colored plushette. For dining room.

Sixth.—Woodwork painted teapot brown paper with formal design in shades of turquoise blue frieze of bine walpicti distemper, with stencil pattern in brown curtains of brown and blue velveteen. For dining room.

Seventh.—Woodwork painted white plain pale green paper or distemper deep frieze of paper with pink poppies on pale green ground curtains of poppy patterned chintz. For bedroom or small drawing room.

Eighth. Woodwork painted dark red dado of gold leatherette green and red bold patterned paper curtains of tapestry in green, gold and red shadea. For dining room or library.

Ninth.—Woodwork painted turquoise bine paper with pattern el pink on blue ground turquoise blue curtains, fa-a bedroom. UMMIO* OOLTXUA

THE NEW WOMAN.

Thought Hofementi'WlilehAft Significant of Her Coming. The present winter I have occasionally attended some lectures on psychological subjeets, such as clairvoyance, thought transference, thought concentration, eta These are topics in which ordinary mortals are little interested, especially the population of New York city. The lectures, among the ablest I have ever listened to on these subjects, were therefore thinly attended. The classes usually numbered no more than 30 persons. Of these there were each time from two to four men, the rest all women. And such women 1 They were very plainly and soberly dressed in dark clothes. None of them was very young, most of them decidedly elderly. Tears ago they had been what the average, giggling, fresh faced girl of today is, a careless, ignorant creature, caring only for gay clothes in the latest fashion and for the attentions of young men. Like most girls they had captured the men they wanted or some other man or else had settled down into single life as best they might. They had their experiences. They had passed through all the average woman encounters. They had loved, suffered and relied on persons or possessions that had in every case disappointed them. Their faces were the faces of those who had trusted to something outside of themselves for happiness, and lost. They had teBted all and found there was nothing in it—nothing. Now they came, weary, almost despairing, with pathetic, shadowed, lined faces, looking for something else, something which would bring them peace Was it spiritualism, was it religion, was it that they might study and find out what was in their own souls, that in themselves at last they might find rest? I know not. I only read from their faces that life had not given them what they needed. I read further the meaning of the new psychic and spiritual movement which sweeps like a wave over the whole earth and oarries women more than men in its current. Men have controlled civilization from the beginning. Men represent the physical and intellectual forces of the soul, and these forces have carried the race as far as they can. Women represent the spiritual, later developed powers of the race. It is now the turn of these higher, finer forces, psychic in their nature, to take hold and lead mankind on. This is why women are so restless, so dissatisfied. This is why all the things on which they have built their life hopes fail them, that they may be led to the study of the soul forces. Before them lie new powers, a new religion, anew faith and hojjie.

Women will never amount to anything in a business way till they learn the value of time and of promptness in keeping engagements. A friend of mine whose living is much dependent on the promptness with which others of her sex keep engagements with her says at times she almost hates the sight of a woman because they have made her lose so much money. This is on account of the slackness with which they keep their promises. A lady will tell her in the most solemn manner to keep an hour for her at a stated time. The hour will come and go. No woman. Meantime others will appear who would pay her several dollars for the hour. She loses all the dollars and the precious time too. The same woman makes another engagement. She would be greatly offended if the hour were not promised to her, yet the second time she deliberately commits the same sin of breaking her promise. Now, I wish to heaven women would just brace themselves up henceforth and be on time and keep every engagement they make as if their souls1 salvation depended on it. It does. If a lecture or meeting is at 3 o'clock, that means 3 o'clock, not lounging in, in a bedraggled way, at half past 8 or 4. The right upbuilding and strengthening of a complete character does depend on our being prompt and keeping engagements.

Thrilling indeed would appear in the publio prints the mention that Secretary Sherman wore a blaok necktie at the last cabinet meeting, while Secretary Bliss set the mode by appearing in a lavender tie and gray trousers, or that Senator Lodge appeared in a suit of navy blue when he delivered his speech on the civil service question, and that he parts his hair in the middle and had it done in papers for the oocasion. Let it not fail to be emphasized that he is past, his first youth.

Let me tell you a secretJKftt is easier to be on time with an engagement than to be late. Just get used to it and see.

Mist Ella Levin, a highly educated and accomplished young business woman, haa opened an office as an advertisement writer in the New York Tribune building. She has prospect of eminent success. Advertisement writing is a business constantly growing and one which calls for the exercise of the best literary And artistic talent It is a profession in itself.

Women will be glad to know tha$ Mrs. Croly (Jamie June) has been appointed an inspector of the public sohools of Greater New York. Her term of office will be five years.

I have lately seen a woman 75 years old more beautiful than any girl around her. Her complexion was pure pink and white, and there was an expression of power and sweetness that only the intellectual life, noble thought and kindly temper of years oould have carved there. She dwarfed the girls so that they seemed crude and uninteresting beside her.

Miss Lulu Steele

TERRE HAUTE SATURDAY EVENING MALL, JANUARY 1, 1898.

Barbouwville,

gy., has been appointed a member of the state board of school examiners. This is a place for which women aeon peculiarly fitted. They ooght to be on the county boards of school examinees everywhere.

ELIZA AOT»B

FASHION GOSSIP.

Evening

frimmioi of Far and Braid Gown Fancies. [Special Correspondence.

NEW YORK, Dec. 20.—Without fur and braid I do not know what we would have done this season for trimming for all the sorts of garments considered necessary. The capes and cloaks, coats and jackets, and the blouses all are oovered with braid to an extent never before dreamed of. I saw a biscuit colored Cloth dress yesterday where skirt, waist and sleeves were literally covered with brown serpentine braid alternating with rows of fancy openwork castle

RECEPTION AND DINNER GOWNS. I

braid in the same shade. The waist was an open blouse with a oream satin vest and a wide scalloped collar of the same. This in turn was braided along the edges of the soallops. A very pretty house gown for morning wear had a Mother Hubbard yoke, and this was nearly covered with braiding done in drab soutache sewed upon the edge. The rest of the gown hung down in unbroken lines and had rows of the soutache set in a pretty pattern 1 inches wide from yoke to foot every half yard all around. As this was naturally gathered so as to bring five breadths in to fit the yoke the lines appeared to be oloser together. The gown was of dark green oashmere. There was a sort of jabot of lace reaching from the shoulders, where it formed caps to the waist line following the yoke. Frills of laoe at the neck and wrists added to the dressy effect of this simple gown.

A very stylish outdoor oostume for a young lady of 10 or 17 was of dark blue imperial serge. There were three rows of straight basket weave titan braid around the bottom. The bodice was in form of a Russian blouse with a pepInm of the same material reaching almost to the knees. One row of the braid was sewed on the very edge of this. The belt was braided. The sleeves and vest, also a guimpe, .were of blue and green plaid poplin, with the blouse waist over that. This was braided in lines to represent a figaro effect, with two rows of loops, one at the upper row and one at the lower row. Another row of loops of the braid was at the neok. This was a pretty costume for a young lady and required no outer garment, as it is to be considered warm enough with the aid of a quilted undervest. So well is braiding liked that new devices have been made whereby it is wrought into a fabric for waists.

At the present moment there is little 'H(0w material shown, but, on the other hand, there is no end to the new fancies in the development of those already on hand. Sleeves are, generally speaking, prettier than they were, and some of them are quite intricate in their arrangement. One, for instance, has a tight coat shape with an oversleeve reaching to the elbow, slashed to the shoulder into four long, square tabs. Above that is a gathered cap with two rows of narrow black velvet. The other parts have fine cluny insertion laid over grass green ribbon. The sleeve is of gray silk. Many sleeves are puffed, some shirred some are little ruffles one over the other still others are "baby sleeves some are of lace with ribbon loops. One

NEW STREET COSTUMES.

kind has a puff headed with a frill of laoe caught up with jeweled butterflies and with a band embroidered with tin* ad and having a fringe of pearl pendants. Elbow sleeves with puffs at the top and laoe ruffles at the bottom are often seen on heavy reception gowns.

Scallops seem to be quite well liked as outlines. One handsome flecked cheviot gown had scallops outlined by wide and narrow braid, the edges being filled with astrakhan. The wide yoke was of brown velours, with braid and a border of astrakhan. Another gown, this of steel gray ottoman cloth, had black braid outlining sdallops with the trefoil loop at the apex. Hie natty little coat basque was scalloped all around and bad a riiaalatod vest of fldck white

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