Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 28, Number 26, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 25 December 1897 — Page 3

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FfiESH FROM PARIS.

A DANCING GOWN TRIMMED WITH •FUR.

Efforts to Break Away From Tradition. Doable Skirts—New Fancies For Trimming—The Fotzr-in hand Scarf and

Other Neckwear.

[Copyright, 1897, by the Author.] It is rather a coriona fancy to havo a dancing gown trimmed and garnished -with for, bat each we have this week in a really beautiful creation from Paris. This gown was made for a young married leader of New York style on a

MEW BALL COSTUMES.

wax model of hor figure kept for the proper adjustment of her robes in Paria This dress was a thick fleur do velours silk of a beautiful moonlight blue and made to fit the graceful figure like a glove. Around the bottom of the skirt, which was demitrain, was a twist of the same rich silk tied into, slipknots at intervals. At the edge was a narrow binding of pure silvery white mouflon. It is rare that any one of these animals has a strip of absolutely pure white, that portion called wbito always having a rich creamy tint in it, so that a binding of silvery white mouflon is a very desirablo thing. The waist was out whole in front and was seamless, the flexibility of the silk allowing it to bo shaped to the stiffened lining. There was a shaped inset of white gauzo across the btiKt and this was studded with pendent (.'earl beads. Extending across the waist from shoulder to hip was a jabot revorn made of mouflon. The point was held mu'er a pearl and diamond ornament. Similar ones held the gathers nt the shoulders, where there was a puffliiK of the gtiuze. The simple design of this gown made it all the more beautiful.

Another effort to break away from tradition in the way of ball gowns is shown in one just finished for tho annual grand charity ball. This has a draped princess front of rich ashes of roses corded silk. Indeed, one might call it ottoman, so heavy and round are its cords. Th6re is a heavy gray and silver cord sewed at tho edge of the skirt, and above this a silver passementerie, which is also put upon the upper part of the bodice. Over ^11 isabeautiful polonaise of white thread lace in old rose point design. Tho sleeves are of white tulle puffed very full and ornamented at the left shoulder by buuehes of white and blue violets. Tho lace in this polonaise has been woven for this special purpose and marks theopeniugof the way of the polonaise in all its various styles. I say that advisedly, for tln re are many varieties of nolonaisos, some being long and utidraped and opeu in front, others draped up on the hips and in the back, and still others are closed in front and oaught up sharply at tho sides. The ovorskirt and poplum are seen, too, very often just now, and they all go to show that the plum, smooth skirt so much liked and no long will have to give way

Tho double skirts are sometimes draid, sometimes slashed and sometimes left to hang free. The peplums are open in front or at tho sides and are supposed to nave some faiut family resemblance to tho ancient Roman garment. Neither of those has tho merit of grace, while tho lines of the polonaise are perfect when rightly cut and are becoming to every figure to a greater or lesser degree. Even the dainty Dolly Varden of years ngone is one style of )lonnise. Tho polonaise is as suitable tor outdoor rta in and is as desirable in

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Mack velvet garnished with jet lace or for as it is in delicate laoe over shimmering silk. feel certain that before the end of the winter we shall «t as many polonaises as blouses. Y: tbe slim and angular sisterhood will do about it remains to be seen, though when*

I think about it I fancy the dressmakers will be able to cope with the difficulty and hide any faults.

Blouses continue in their popularity, I Mid some of them are almost marvels 1 of human ingenuity in new devices,

One, for instance., has sleeves of shirred pink silk mull, with the blouae itself at alternate rows of black lace and silk ucOl aanfftiring The stock is oaoffensd

and the belt laid in folds, and both these are of mulL One is of dark green vel* vet, ending at the waist line with three tucks, and folds are laid across the bust and on the sleeves. The belt and oddly shaped pointed collar are of reseda crape, with white point de venise insertion. These two are for indoors. One for oatdoor wear was of drab Venetian cloth edged with brown and gold round cord and trimmed with the same across the chest. -There was a loose plastron down the front The brown stamped leather belt passed under the plastron. Dark bine cheviot was another, and this was bound with astrakhan. The revers open ed over a vest of dark bine velvet, and the rather narrow belt and the stock were of velvet. There was a square figaro de signed upon this basque in thick soutache braid in lattice outline. An especially dainty blonse was with a very •light beige cloth costume. There was an opening from neck to belt filled with a jabot of white silk mnll in accordion plaits. On each side of this deep folds were laid, and on them were straps of silk braid to match the gown, held, down by square gilt buckles. On the shoulders were epaulets of the cloth covered with narrow gold braid in vermicelli design and edged with frills of the silk muslin. This was an especially smart suit for matinee or theater.

Among the needful things for the well dressed woman of today are the pretty and dainty devices for neckwear. A becoming arrangement of ribbon, lace or linen at the neck often saves a gown from downright dowdinesa There is the four-in-hand scarf, most often in black silk or satin, and—your big broth er will show you how to tie it—the tie made of striped ribbon with lace ends, the nurrow club or string tie in black, the silk stock tie, which may be any color the ascot puff, which should bo in a horsy sort of check, and from that to the linen collar and collarette above encircled with silk mull and tied in the middle, leaving the ends to stick out like sheaves of wheat.

Then come the delicate lace, chiffon and mull cravats and soft puffed bows with frilled ends and the fancy crape ties with their lace ends. These are almost silly. They are first carried around to the back of the neck, then forward and tied in ono slipknot. The ends fall loosely iu a twist a few inches and are tied in two more slipknots. From these the stuff is drawn out straight and edged with a full frill of very fine lace. They look as if made too long in the beginning and taken up with "a hitch."

HENUIKTTR ROUSSEAU.

TURKISH COFFEE.

Bow to Make It and How to Bretr Moorish Tea.

Instead of Turkish coffee one might almost say Mohammedan coffee, for the method of making it is essentially the same in most Mohammedan oonntries, except that it is tho coffee of Qreecealso, having become so probably when Greece was under Mohammedan rule.

The mill in which the coffee is pulverized is seen sometimes iu New York. To the uninitiated it looks like a section of brass pipe. It is a rude appli ance, calliug for patience and strong hands. For practical purposes it is better to buy pulverized coffee in small quantities, though it i9 impossible to get in this way just tho flavor of that freshly powdered. Tho coffee must be flno as flour. Ordinary ground coffee will not answer.

Coffee is served in tho east in a small oup called a "fingan." Under this there is generally a "zarf" of brass filigree work of the shape and size of an egg oup. Tho ceffee cup has no handle and rests in the "zarf" like an egg.

To make coffee tho Turk puts cold water enough to fill throe or four cups into a brass dipper with a flaring mouth aud a long handle. He adds what is to a European an impossiblo amount of sugar and brings to a boil over a brazier of charcoal. When tho water is thoroughly boiling, he adds one cup of coffee for every four or five cups of water. Tbo water instantly rises in a thick brown foam. Just splash of cold water is thrown in to prevent its going overboard, and the coffeo is poured iuto the cu{® and drunk immediately. No Turk minds scalding or wishes the grounds to settle. The infusion of the coffeo is unnecessary, owing to its powdered condition, and adds what is regarded as an undesirablo flavor. Coffee is prepared in extremely small quantities for individual serving.

It is becoming the fashion with some women to serve this coffee instead of afternoon tea. As prepared in New York the hostess boils the water over a tiny alcohol lamp, adding sugar according to the taste of her guests or her own discretion. She uses one cup of coffee to about eight quarts of water. There is no chance of failure if the water is boiling vigorously when the coffee is added and if the dash of cold water oomes hard on its heels.

Turkish coffee is disagreeable to some people others think it the only coffee worth drinking. Tiny Japanese caps and Turkish doilies make a pretty service, especially if one has a hammered brass tray.

Tea as drunk in the harems of Morocco is esteemed the best made. To prepare it pour a pint and a half of vigorously boiling water over a tablespoonful of tea. Let it infuse about three minutes wad then strain through a clean napkin into a teapot Add to the hot tea some sprigs of lemon verbena. If these cannot be had, add mint Keep the tea hot enough to infuse the verb©* 1 na. but do not allow it to boil. Squeeze What I

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drop® fresh limr \juice or in

default of this the juice of afresh lem-

Like Turkish coffee, the tea of the Moors is made very sweet It is nerved with small aweet cakes.

FAXMS GtUCOBK.

It is a good thing for woman suffrage that the Prohibition party has recorded itself asoppceed t© this reform. Use favor of the Prohibition party would do woman suffzage more barm than good.

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At a recent meeting of the Rainy Day club in New York city Mrs. Celia B. Whitehead read a paper claiming triumphantly woman's right to be ugly if she wants to. The address was a protest against the average shallow, flippant notions concerning woman's personal appearance. Perhaps a short, comfort able, cleanly rainy day dress does not look well in the eyes of the average man. What then? Woman has the right to wear it until his untrained eyes get nsed to it, when he will think it as beautiful as he now considers the long, dirty skirt, with its tight laced, painful waist I am glad Mrs. Whitehead has taken ap this subject The ordinary man's idea of beauty in a woman's dress is wholly conventional and as lacking in the sense of true proportions or lines of art as a baby's or a baboon's. I have heard men praise in extravagant terms the bicycle costume of a woman when her waist was laced so tight that she could by no possibility have climbed even the smallest hill or ridden so much as 20 miles and could not have walked two miles to save her life because her feet were pinched to death in vulgar little sharp pointed shoes. So much for a man's idea of woman's beauty. What is it worth? Mrs. Whitehead spoke very truly of the belittling effect on woman's work of always considering first what she has on and how she looks and what she does afterward. Suppose Abraham Lincoln had been judged in that way. There is infinite wisdom in these words used by Mrs. Whitehead: "Let woman devise a dress that will not binder her from becoming strong, wise, grand and good, and let it be ever so much rt a Beast at first Beauty will finally marry it, and they will live happily ever after." There is profound metsdng in this new reading of an old allegory. Why should a woman's dress or personal appearance have anything to do with her work or her speech at all when that work or that speech alone is supposed to be considered? The time has come when woman's dress and appearance should be passed without notice one way or the other. A lot of men may come together, baldbeaded, bandy legged, toothless and hideous, and it excites no sensation in the reportorial brain, but let it be meeting composed largely of ladies! Each woman present is raked foro nnd aft. If the ladies present are middle aged or not noted for beauty, the report er pounces upon them with fiendish glee. He has made a find and cackles. It is time tol insigt on woman's right to be ugly.

Mrs. P. D. Leslie has been for the second time elected clerk of Brown county, Kan., a state in which women cannot vote for ccvnty, state or nation al officer* They may, however, hold any otice within the state.

That they can fill official places well Mrs. Leslie proved |ring her first term, and her constituents approved her capable and honest administration to the extent of re-elScting her. It was a hot campaign, and Mrs. Leslie often rode 530 miles on horseback to secure a farruer's vote. She got it too.

A youth of my acquaintance has just gone to a college. It is not Yale oi Harvard, but a college in which he will not be snubbed because he is a poor lad His mother was left a widow with two little boys years ago. It wasjui a conn try neighborhood where nobody wa:' rich and there was little that a womui. could do to earn money, but this heroic: mother wen' out washing, icrubbing. housecleaning and nursing wherever rough work could be had. The older boy she left at a neighbor's, theyoungei one she took with her. She rented two poor rooms nnd in these at night when her hard tasks were done she and her boys were at homa The years went on till at length the older lad was lurfre enough to go out to work for (miners. He earned his living aud got his own clothes in this way after a time. Still tho heroic mother toiled on. She did not cease her efforts as the elder sou became able to earn more tnouey than he required fche bade him lay it up for himst If to pay for bis schooliug and she still went out washing and housecleaning. She does so yet and now tho older boy being at college the second one* is able to begin earning a little When did woman ever have less opportunity than this one? Yet see what she has done.

If there is one thing that tickles the sense of humor more than another it is to read in the newspaper of half a dozen election fights, hair pollings and killings among men who were disputing over politics and then to read a learned magazine essay by some man against letting women take part in government and elections because of the "danger of admitting into politics an element of wild, unreasoning, uncalculating, hysterical emotion."

The time is coming when a woman will consider a man's physical grace, health, purity, beauty, neatness and perfection as carefully before she accepts him for a husband as mem now make note of the same qualities in a young woman. When that time comes, a beautiful race of beings will be developed.

Remember that a waiaatf ban understand anything a man can.

Join orftr one or two clnba, attempt to do only a few things and do them as! wall as they can he done Concentrate! all your powers on them till they are! finished. The sin of women today is the frittering away of their brains and energies on a donas different objects. Pis your efforts persistently on one object 1 and you will succeed grandly.

TERRE HAUTE SATURDAY EVtl^lNG MAIL, DECEMBER 25, 18i7

THE NEW WOMAN.

Haa Me the Right to Be Ugly If She Wants To?

Mrs. Leslie, clerk of Brown wknty, Kan., says of women officeholders, "I tnwnifna, nervousness, and, oonld wish no better fate to my sister not reSeved, bOhms fever women than that tbey should share poboaiag. Hood's With me field where I have proved *ato «*e qcmlifled t. work." Em AacHABnOoaoaa. ilbeonfrFatototslwwi&Hosxrs"

For a Child** Party Sapper.

Apple snowballs make a pretty dish for a children's party supper. The ingredients required area pound of rice, sugar, milk and water, as many peeled wad cored apples as may be required and a few cloves. Boil the rice in the milk and water until nearly finished and then strain it. Into the hollow of the apples put some sugar and stick a clove or two into each fruit Surround each apple with the boiled rice and tie it in a small pudding cloth then place them all together in a vessel and boil from three-quarters of an hour to an hour, according to the size of the fruit Apples thus prepared may be served by themselves or surrounded by a good custard.

A Quaint Photograph Frame.

Among the great variety of photograph frames it is rarely one hits upon one as quaint and novel as the one given in the illustration below. It is charming in color and design and also serves as a reminder of rippling waves and soft breezes when the gray and dreary days are upon us again.

It is a perfect reproduction in effeot of the life buoy and is simple enough in its construction to be within the reach of all.

A foundation should first be made by cutting from heavy cardboard two circles of 14 inches in diameter. In one of these a circular opening must be made six inches in diameter. This second piece should be well padded in round-

ing form with cotton batting, after which cut from heavy white linen a cirole at least two inches larger than the cardboard dice. Stretch this tightly over the padded oardboard and secure with paste or mucilage on the underside. Then slash the brim over tho opening left for the photograph from the center to the inside edge of padded circle. Slash at distances of one to one and a half inches. Stretoh the linen as tight as possible and paste as before. White silk cable end is used around the outer edge of the frame and also divides it in sections as shown in illustration. The decoration consists of bits done in delft blue, either with the brush or needle. Tho cardboard back is then pasted or glued on, but only at the sides, leaving it freo top and bottom to permit the introduction of the photograph.

A oork leg witnout a knee joint does not cost as much as one including the knee, and if an artificial hip socket is to be made the cost is correspondingly increased.

In three years the progeny of a pail of rats, under favorable coQditions, will number 1,000.

'•A New Ycaf's CJlft Heralded, Tho measureless popularity of Hostetter's Stomach Bitters has been the growth of more than a third of a century. As In the past, the coming new year will be ushered in by the appearance of a fresh Almanac clearly setting forth the nature, uses and operation of this medicine of world-wide fwtne. It is well' worth perusal. Absolute accuracy In the astronomical calculations and calendar will, as before, be valuable characteristics, while the reading matter will Include statistics, humor and general Information, accompanied by admirably executed illustrations. Tho Almanac Is Issued from the publishing department of The llos tetter Company at Pittsburgh, and will bo printed on their presses In English, German, French, Welsh, Norwegian, Swedish. Holland. Bohemian and Hpanish. Ail druggists and country dealers furnish it without cost.

Rebecca Wilkinson, of Brownsvalley, Ind., says: "I have been in a distressed condition for three years from nervousness, weakness of the stomach, dyspepsia and indigestion until my health was gone. I had been doctoring constantly with no relief. I bought one bottle of South American Nervine, which did me more good than any $50 worth of doctoring I ever did in my life. I would advise every weakly person to use this valuable and lovely medicine a few bottles of it has cured me completely. consider it the grandest medicine in the world." Warranted the most wonderful stomach and nerve cure ever known. Sold by all druggists in Terre Haute, Ind.

High Art on th« High 8mm.

"It was a rather expensive ocean trip that Splasher took."

'A frightful storm came up and the captain threw Splasher's oil paintingi overboard to calm the waves.Chicago Record.

Biliousness

Is erased by torpid liver, which prevents dlges* ttona&d permits food to ferment and putrify in Then follow dtotow. headache,

Hood's

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B. G. HUDNOT. President. WILL ART) KIDDER. Vice- President. *. •, G. A. CONZMAN. Cashier.

Vigo County National Bank

Capital $150,000. Surplus $30,000.

IF O JR _E I C3- 1ST EXlG"E3:^2SrC3-E

624 Main Street. TERRE HAUTE, IND.

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Leave orders at 1517 Poplar St., 1241 Somtb Fifth St., 901 Main St.. Terre Baute, Ind

Manufacturers and Dealers in Machinery and Supplies. Repairs a Eleventh and Sycamore Sts., Terre Haute, Ind.