Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 28, Number 25, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 18 December 1897 — Page 16

I-

THE SPARROW'S FALL

A MARTYR TO THE DEMANDS OF MILLINERY. -wV^jS

And Olive Harper Thinks It Ii Shams. Attire For Foil Drea# Occasions—The Belt Is a Necenltr—Xew Style of Hair* dressing.

[Special Correspondence.]

NEW YORK,

Dec. 18.—"There are no

birds in last year's nests," sang some poet, and I suppose the reason is that women wanted the wing* and tails of the aforesaid birds to trim their winter bats this year. The sancy little sparrow has apparently been nearly annihilated, if one may judge by the number of

NEW MILLINERY.

wings, and often the whole birds, offered by fashion. The soft grays and browns of those feathers go so well with everything, and if there is anything with which they will not exactly oombine, why, it is not impossible to dye them a dark metallio bine, a deep cardinal red or a glossy black, and one oz another of these will go where the demure and modest natural color would not do. Poor little sparrows! As I look from my window I see perhaps 2,000 or 8,000 of thom flocking in the remains of my vegetable garden, where sunflowers, radish, lettuce and a perfect tangle of morning glories went to seed. There they hop and chirp and chatter and pick tip the seeds, every little while flying off in a buzzing cloud and alighting iu some neighboring trees, to come back again as soon as the cause of their alarm has gone, whatever it was. I think it was cats, for bad boys with slingshots are unknown here, and guns are pro hibited. All wintor the fence outside of tho dining room window iu oovered with impudent little sparrows, theiz blaok oyes alert for the moment when tho pan on the ground will be filled with crumbs. I think they knew when it was mealtime for the family last wiuter. I should miss the bright, amus ing littlo sparrows greatly if they were callod upon to lay down their pretty wings to decorate women's hats. It is one thing to pull out a few feathers from a big brute of an ostrich in molting season and anothor to kill the help less littlo sparrow altogether. That last sentenoe came so near being an Irish bull that it reminds me of an advertisement I saw in a paper recently to the effeot that some one offered to "kill bugs and roaches permanently" for a consideration. And as wiser persons than I have tried without sucoess to persuade women to spare the birds I will lay no more. There are very pretty and ornamental arrangements of jet black feathers and others with that marvelous iridescence that no human hand could produce. These are used to trim all black hats and some few bonnets. Tho long, graceful paradise plumes are added whenever they are possible. On some hats we find eaglo, hawk, paradise, ostrioh and aigret feathers all together.

Tho round turban is turning out to be a favorite. The crown is of plain felt or beaver, and the brim is either gathered or plaited velvot or velours or sometimes fur. In all cases the turbans are becoming. The alpines for midwinter are light in oolor, lower of crown and with a more defined brim than before. They may be trimmed quite lavishly or with the simple ribbon bond. Veils are mndo to reach only to the chin, and I don't think one can say any speoial kind is better style than another.

The advent of the blouse made the belt a necessity, and as various as are those garments so are the belts, and some are of gold or silver, set with imitations of precious stones. Some are of plain gold in filigree work. Some are

DRCORATIVE TRIFLS&.

narrow, others wide, and the buckle* vary quite as widely in aim and style. Leather belts, bended belts and velvet and ribbon ones are all fashionable. These lead to the sashes, and they have become very useful adjuncts to many plain gowns, transforming them into dressiness. They may be made of silk, velvet, dre«B material, «lk mull or lace, and they may be bordered or left plain. Sometimes one, if of suitable material, will do deftr for several govrna. Fans are preuie«t of painted game. Side combs are jeweled car of carved jet or shell. The new style of dressing the hair makes the shell combs almost a necessity. It is waved slightly and then

'fii

brought up over a "roll" and the ends brought nnder the figure 8 or the currant bun knot at the top of the head, am sorry to say that there is a deter' mined movement toward the old fash ioned excrescence oalled "chignon, "beaver tail" or "doorknob," as one prefers. This means that the hair is carried back and wound up into a bulgy bunch and incased in a net.

Overskirts, peplums and polonaises are all among the new designs, and skirts with "sprung" bottoms are seen, Watteau tea gowns are made of su perb brocade in deep, rich colors. The fronts are loose and belted in with heavy gold cord. Lapels and collars of enormous size lie over the shoulders and are edged with lace ruffles, a cascade which follows the wide seam of the skirt.

OLIVE HARPEK. ISISSP1

THE RUSSIAN CHURCH.

It Han Upward of Sixty Placet of Worship "In This Country. (Special Correspondence.!

SAN FRANCISCO,

Dec. 8.—A little

over 100 years ago nine Russian monks tinder the leadership of Joseph Bolotoff, abbot, arrived on Kaidyan, one of the Aleutian group of islands. There they erected the first Orthodox Russian church and school in the western hem isphere. These buildings, which were dedicated to St. Paul, are still in exist ence and harbor a thriving colony of Russians and half breeds. The discov ery, settlement and Christir.nization of these islands were not due to any government enterprise, but to the labors oi two Russian subjects—Skelikoff and Baranoff.

In 1788 these men, at their own risk and expense, fitted out three vessels on the Kamchatka coast and undertook the conquest and subjugation of the Aleutian and Kurile group of islands. In time the colony became important enough to command synodic attention, and bishops began to be appointed. Soon, through the efforts of Bishop Nestor, a cathedral was founded at San Francisco, and progression was steady until in these days there are numerous churches and reverend officials sprin kled throughout the states.

The Russian church of today flour ishes mainly through the enthusiastic labors and enterprise of Bishop Nicholai, whose diocese is, latitudinally and Ion gitudinally, the most extensive in the world, extending, as it does, from New York to the islands already mentioned, a stretch of land and sea exceeding 7,000 miles! This vigorous and highly intellectual olerio succeeded Vladimir in 1892, when he was placed in full control of the Russian Orthodox church in Amerioa. His work during the five years he has oooupied the see has been

RUSSIAN GHEEK CHURCH, BAN FRANCISCO.

so full and earnest as to approaoh the heroio. He established 15 ohurches in four years and travels harder and more continuously than any living creature exoept perhaps a railway oonduotor. He is praotioal, large hearted and brilliant, riohly deserving the absolute devotion of all the church members, and, as will be seen, while his features are charao teristically Slav, his appearance is eminently pleasing.

Of the sacred edifices by far the most important is the cathedral at San Francisco. The starting £unds were $96,000, raised by Bishop Nestor. During the era of Bishop Vladimir about $05,000 was expended, and the building is now complete and thoroughly equipped. An important church is at Bridgeport, Genu. It is a small, wooden edifice, about 40 feet wide and 70 deep and of reasonable height. There is a steeple or church tower in front surmounted by a triple cross. This cross is only characteristic external feature of the church. The interior is very plain. The walls Mid ceiling are perfectly white. The windows are of stained glass, soft yellow predominating, so that the light is bright. There is a small gallery over the front entrance. The characteristic features of the Orthodox Greek church are shown in the cut—the screen that separates the altar from the main part of the church, or audience room, and the fact that there are no seats, or, rather, only a few seats for the aged and infirm.

The Russian church goes far back in its customs. The cross has three pieces, typifying that on which Jesus died. The cross of the crucifixion had a foot rest cm which the feet of the Saviour were nailed, a seoond and longer strip for the arms, while over the head was the sign piece on which had been painted "Jesus the Nasareoe." If a ohurch is surmounted by a cross, should it not be one which entirely symbolises the crucifixion? Take again the matter of church worship. The congregations stand during the service, a time honor* ed custom handed down from the days of Jesus himself, when the disciples stood and the congregations gathered about them to hear their teachings. Sunday begins at 6 o'clock on Saturday night, bemuse the Bible says that God made the evening first.

A few years ago there was soaroely an American Russian church exoept the cathedral in San Francisco, built as a •art of American headquarters, for the bnUt of communicants lived in Alaska and the Aleutian inlands and oooriatad principally of Indians and native Eskimos. Now there are 14,000 members and upward of 60 places of worship.

WILL M. Curaim

.. sSKr

14 TERRE HAUTE SATURDAY EVENING- MALL, DECEMBER 18, 1897.

BEHIXD^HE COUNTER

ENGLISH SHOPWOMEN AND AMER 1CAN STORE LADIES.

Ono View of the Difference Between Saleswomen Here and Abroad—American and EoglUh Business Methods.

The Difficulty of Baying*

The English shopwoman is as pleasant a subject to contemplate after men milliners and barmaids as a thoroughbred after a mule or as a peasant from Piedmont after a Florentine tramp. She is neatly dressed. She always greets you with a smile—not a giggle or a snicker, but a genuine smile of welcome. Her calm blue or blue gray eyes command attention and forbid familiarity, and, whether you meet her in London or Liverpool, whether you are shopping in Deptford or on the Strand, you will find her essentially the same. What differ en06 there may be between the shopgirl of the provinces and her London sister is merely the difference between the town sparrow and the country sparrow with- the glove on the other hand, though in the matter of politeness the saleswomen in Lewis' of Manchester and Liverpool are not the inferiors of Whiteley's of London. Of this you may be confident—if you go to a shop with the intention of buying, you will make purchase and be pleased with your bargain.

Such a eulogy as this may appear to need a justification, which, however, is not very far to seek. Environment and association have* just as much effect for good when they are good as for evil when they are bad, and the air of a well conducted English draper's shop is far from being uncongenial to a strong wo man. It 'is not at all necessary that a successful saleswoman shall have lost any of the peculiarities that- men ad mire in femininity. She must, in fact, have cultivated them to a great extent and have added to them an experiment tal knowledge of human nature.

In the first place she is happy. It is so interesting to most women to handle fine laces and delioate fabrics. She is there in her element. The show man instinct is strong in her. She feels when the goods she displays are admired that part of the admiration is her due. She takes it and is satisfied.

Nor is her employment monotonous. There are so many new faces, so many new personalities for her to practice her wiles on not many men perhaps, but enough even of them to make her travail piquant, to give her the change that is as good as a feast.

Then she has had to learn how to make people like her. She is refined with the refined, effervescent with tho gushing, reserved with the reserved and slightly patronizing with the coarse. Withal she has a delicate way of making people feel their superiority to her. She tells you without saying it "I am paid to be your servant, ma'am. I liko to be your servant. I am your servant. It is a pleasure to me to oblige you." So she takes her oustomer into her confidence and becomes a guide and familiar friend. If it flatters you to patronize her, she is pleased to be patronized, confident that a flattered oustomer will freely spend.

In the whole establishment there is no hurry or hustle. When you enter the shop, you are met by the urbane, bowing, gentleman shopwalker, who, if yon are not already acquainted, learns your need and turns you over to Miss Pleased-to-sell, and from that moment until you leave the house you are in her hands.

She is quite calm &nd deliberate.* She is perfectly justified to herself and her employers if she spends a whole mornSag in selling you a yard of lace, provided you go away satisfied and retnrn, for that yard of lace may be the initiative of a shopping friendship that will last a lifetime. If you are really satisfied, you will most certainly call again, and if you call again you will want that woman to wait on you. Then will come the smiling recognition, the almost loving ohat over the latest and newest things, possibly after awhile a little sub rosa anecdote about Lady AH frills or a laughipg criticism of Mrs Parvenu. The acquaintance ends of course at the shop door, possibly at the oounter, but while it lasts it is a sincere friendship, as all acquaintances are which are based on mutual interest and pleasure. ti |C^

As for the Americaii store lady, tlrafl are three general types of her—the condescending, the bored, and the dressy. How they do "stand off" trade! Is there no better medium between flippancy and uninterest than a condescension which the bulk of American shoppers are growing up to smart under? "I will wait on you as an especial favor," Bays the glove lady. "When circum'stances permit, or Lis and I have recounted last night's dreams," the ribbon lady infers, "I will see what it is you want" "I am absolutely and supremely indifferent to and independent of what purchases you think fit to knake. Of course, if yon press me, I can show you some fine nainsook, but just now my hands, arms and wrists feel a peculiar distaste for spreading goods on the counter, and we are sure not to have what yon are looking for. Better go home or to another store." Something very like this is mirrored in the eye and movements of a frizzy redheaded lady in a black velvet waist, trimmed with steel passementerie. "We haven't it" "Why, what is that?" "That? That? This? This other? Oh, that! It won't salt yon." "Will yon let me see it?" She drags it out f*1 knew it wouldn't do," reproachfully. "No. Yes. Dimities? Next lady down the aisle." The dimity lady was saying to the lawn lady: "Sally, look at that woman! Ain't she a sight! My, hat I like her hat! I've been thinking of getting cream plmmes for What's that your customer's pricing? I pat that remnant by for myself. We

shan't be having any more of it this season, lady." The hosiery lady will frighten you with a look which says as plain as words, What did you come to my counter for?" The notion lady, a stylish blond, has a call from a nice young man in whom she is in a serene, reposeful way interested. The ball containing your return change is reposeful' too. You chafe, but she makes you feel that she is merely taking the same right that you would take unmindful of her if a friend came up to you to talk. Her nice young man looks on your impatience with pity which he is almost ashamed of. She makes an unruffled movement toward the ball, her eyes still on him, and then repenting calls out, "Laura, just give this lady her change!" Laura comes sauntering down the aisle, gives you a stare of identification, takes the ball from its cage, deliberately opens it, counts out the change and dismisses you.

The American man is not an unfamiliar figure at the dry goods counter. He buys for his wife. The store lady likes him as a customer. Her large independence yields to him. If he is in doubt, she will help him out with her own taste and judgment If he can't see what he wants, she will find it for him. She knows, for one thing, that he means to buy, and she likes the way he pulls ouf his money as though he knew where to find it so many women do not, and, then, they are not expected to buy at the first counter. In our large oities enstomers^ often oome in once, but never again. Where is the use of trying to please and retain them? The briskness of American business methods seems not in the code of the counter salespeople. Impinged on them in a most tantalizing way is an atmosphere: "Here is our display. Well may yon admire. You cannot find its equal anywhere. If you buy, of oourse, you will be doing yourself a good turn, but wo are not anxious. We are troubled always with a large indifference, and this morning especially with 'that tired feeling.'

We know |he American saleswomen are ill paid, worried with troublesome customers and long hours ou the feet But what saleswomen are not? They say it is always the unexpected that happens, but not iu dry goods houses. The observant American woman no longer expects her countrywoman behind the counter to discover any wares that may be on the shelf. She knows that the only attention she can be quite sure of is a glance at her get up and an imitation of it if it is deemed worthy. In America we justly hate fiunkyism. We are in no danger. It is possible we err too much the other way, for American shoppers haunt the reception rodms of foreign costumers and dry goods merchants for a little semblance of the fitness of things and not at all because they are Frenohy or Anglomaniacs.

Our dry goods houses are palatial and convenient parlors, waiting rooms, post offices, refreshment rooms, meeting places and exhibitions, but they have not the atmosphere of shops where you can buy. Whereas in other countries the difficulty is to leave a shop without making a purchase, the difficulty here is to buy. Of course people must and will and do buy. But saleswomen do not en courage customers to spend money or to come again. The courteous, attentive and businesslike store lady is the e^cep tion rather than the rula 5 MASON-JTORTH

A New Year's Gift Heralded. The measureless popularity of Hostetier's Stomach Bitters has been tho growth of more than a third of a century. As in the past, the coming new year will be ushered in by the appearance of a fresh Almanac, clearly setting forth the nature, uses and operation of this medicine of world-wide fame. It is well worth perusal. Absolute accuracy in the astronomical calculations and calendar will, as before, be valuable characteristics, while the reading matter will Include statistics, humor and general Information, accompanied by admirably executed Illustrations. The Almanac la Issued from the publishing department of The Hostetter Company at Pittsburgh, and will be rlnted on their presses in English, German. Trench, Welsh, Norwegian, Swedish. Hoi land, Bohemian and 8panlsh. All druggists and country dealers furnish it without cost.

Rebecca Wilkinson, of Brownsvalley, Ind., says: "I have been in a distressed condition for three years from nervousness, weakness of the stomach, dyspepsia and indigestion until my health was gone. I had been doctoring constantly with no relief. I bought one bottle of South American Nervine, which did me more good than any $50 worth of doctoring I ever did in my life. I would advise every weakly person to use this valuable and lovely medicine a few bottles of it has cured me completely. I consider itthe grandest medicine in the world." Warranted the most wonderful stomach and nerve cure ever known. Sold by all druggists in Terre Haute, Ind.

Constipation

Causes fully half the sickness in the world. It retains the digested food too long in the bowels and produces biliousness, torpid liver, todl-

Hood's

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Ask your Druggist for a generous ro CENT TRIAL SIZE. Ely's Cream Balm oontains no cocaine. mercury nor any other Injurious drag.

It is quickly absorbed. Oirea relief at once.

COLD ".HEAD

fiammatlon. Heals and protects tho Membrane. Restores the Senses of Taste and Smell. Full Sice 50c. Trial Site 10c. at DrngiiL

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gists or by mail. ELY BROTH

Some Notable

CHAS.A. DANA'S REMINISCENCES

army, memoirs

.. I

T. W. Hiffffinson

W. D. Howells

McCLURE'S MAGAZINE

FOR

THE COMING YEAR

Features

The Christmas MCCLUSK'S contained a complete Skort St by Rudyard Kiptin the tale of a cloude a rebellious tribe.

1—~

THE CUSTER MASSACRE

NANSEN

gre^t value^toldencfc^

be*1

These reminiscence* contain more unpublished war history than any other book except the Government publications. Mr. Dana was intimately associated with Lincoln, Stanton, Grant, Sherman, and theothergreat men oi the Civil War. He had the confidence °«'be President and his great War Secretary, and he was sent on ®any/n9«ir missions to make important investigations in the I

Lincoln called him TkeEyescftkeGovernment oi tkt Front* Everywhere through these 3 ... bus of i^ret History^ Fresk Recollect,ons Great Men. These Reminiscences will be illustrated with many Rar* and Unfiubttsktd WarPhotofra^ from the Government collection, which now contains over 8,000 negatives of almost priceless value.

tpleti

entitled THE TOMS OR His ANCESTORS,' Tiger, an officer in the Indian army, and We have in hand also a A'ev Ballad,

powerful, grim, moving song of War Ships. It wiil be superbly illustrated. Mr. Kipling will be a frequent contnbutor.

ANTHONY HOPE'S NEW ZENDA NOVEL

Rmdyard Killing, Robert Barr, William Allen Witt, Ian Maclzrmt Octave TAan*tt Ste^ktn Crane* and many othm tM tat story writers in the world, will contribute to McCLUREo during the coming year.

EDISON'S LATEST ACHIEVEMENT

iory

I *\.t MILLIONS of Copies have been sold. n*

Oj_ C*

Two famousauthors will contribute long serial stories to the BAZAR in 1898. The first deals with Scotch and Continental scenes, the second is a story of a young girl, versatile, and typically American. Mary E. Wilklns Octave Thanet, 1

Katharine DeForest Spofford M. S. Briscoe

HANDSOME COLORED PLATES ADDED TO THIS YEAR'S VOLUME,

RUDYARD KIPLING STORIES & POEMS

"Rufitrt of HenitauJ' the sequel to "Tk* Prit titer of £*na* in splendid invention, in characters, in dramatic situations, it is the noblest and most stirring novel that Anthony Hope has ever written.

SHORT STORIES BY GREAT AUTHORS

Edison's Wonderful Invention. The result of eight years* constant labor. Mountains ground to dust and the iron ore extracted by magnetism. 7%t Fastest Skit. An article bvthe inventor and constructor of Turbinia/' a vessel that can

,ma*e. '"e speed of an express train. Makinr a Great

Telescope, by the most competent authority hving. Lord Kelvin, a character sketch and substance of a conversation with this eminent scientist on unsolved problems ofscience. Drawn from fifteen years' personal experience as brakeman, firem^n and engineer, by Herbert H.. HambNn. It is a narrative of work, adventure, hazards, accident* and escapes, and is as vivid and dramatic as apiece oI fiction.

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a thoroughly tip-to-date periodical for women, will enter upon its thirty-first volume in T898. During the year it will be as heretofore

A MIRROR

Paris and New York Fashions A Coforec Fashion Supplement Cut Paper Patterns A Bi- Weekly Pattern Sheet

LONG SERIALS

Builders' Hardware, Furnaces,"

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1200 2&JLX23* SfBEBT.

Plfp

THE RAILROAD MAN'S LIFE

The account of this terrible fight written down by Hamlin Garland it came from the lips of

^participant in it.

Its houses, streets, means of travel, water supply, safeguards of life and health, sports and pleasures—the conditions of life of the perfected city of the next century, by Col. George E Waring, Jr., Commissioner of the Street-Cleaning Department of New York.

MARK TWAIN

Moons, an old Indian Chief who was

NEW YORK IN 1950

Mark Twain contributes an article in his old manner, describing his voyage fron* India (a Seutk Africa. The illustrations are by A, B. rrost Ptier AVtw/f, and areas droll and humorous as the article itself.

Andrrfe: His Bailoon and his Expedition, from materials furnished by the brother of Mr. Strmberg, Andre's companion. Stien Hedin in Unexplored Asia, a story of remarkable adventure and endurance Landor in T\ibet. His own story. He was captured, tortured and finally escaped to India.

Mplorer

writ"of

ADVENTURE

lhc

the boundaries of human habitation. Arctic explorer has written an article on the possibilities of reaching the North Pole on the methods that the next expedition should adopt, and the important scientific knowledge to be gained bv an expedition: concemincr »h*

dCptl" temPeralur®

ll»e

artists and illustrators are making pictures for

MCCLCRK'S MAGAZINE. A. B. Frost, Peter Neivell. C. D. Gibson. I Hm ard Pyle, Kenyan Cox, C. A'. Union, W. D. Stevens, Alfred Brennan, and others.

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ILLUSTRATIONS

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na Reminiscences, Mark Twain's Voyage from India to South Africa, th*

amount ol taison great invention, and a mass of interesting matter and illustratious,

Be sun to ask for

OF FASHION

Each issue will contain carefully prepared drawings of the advance fashions of Paris and New York. Once a month the BAZAR will issue, free, a colored fashion supplement. Cut paperpattcrns of certain gowns in each number will be made a feature. These will be sold in connection with each issue at a uniform price. The UAZAK will also publish biweekly. free, an outline ittttorn sheet.

AND SHORT STORIES

WILD EELEN By WILLIAM BLACK RAGGED LADY By IV. D. HOWBtXa

These and a score of other equally prominent writers will contribute short stories to the BAZAR in 1898, making the paper especially rich in fiction.

DEPARTMENTS AND SPECIAL ARTICLES OUR PARIS LETTER THE LONDON LETTER

By KATHARINR DB FOREST By Mrs. POULTNBY BtGBLOW CLUB WOMEN HUMOR By MARGARET H. WELCH By JOHN KBNDRICK BANGS

There will be a series of articles on Etiquette, Music, the Voice, Art, the Play, Women and Men, Leaders among Women, Gardening, Housekeeping, Life and Health, Indoor Details, etc.

10c, a Cop) (Send for Free Prospectus) Sub., 14 a Ye«r Postage free in the United States, Canada, and Mexico. Address HARPER A BROTHERS, Publishers, New York City

CHATTERBOX 1897

No book has ever been made for young people which compares In value, or has had one-tenth the sale ol this great annual.

T, Illustrations.

Several new Storlei, each a book In Itself, and hundred* of Short Storlee, Anecdotes, Put* ilea, &c. jtjfc The beet poeelble CHRISTMAS PRB5BNT for boy* and girls of all age*.

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Octave Thanet

71 Over 400 Pages, j* 200 Full Pag#