Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 28, Number 18, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 30 October 1897 — Page 3

~'A

CHAOS OF FASHION.

THE ONLY STANDARD IS THAT THE ATTIRE MUST BE BECOMING. •m'f&m

Feather

Styles In Gloves and Neckwear BOM, Ostrich Tips and Qntlls—How to Get a 895 Hat For SIS—Braid For Dres* and Cloak Trimming.

[Special Correspondence.]

NEW YORK, Oct. 25.—It would puztle an archaeologist to locate the exact era of oar present fashion designs, for gome of them date back to the days of Nebuchadnezzar and others are of only A few generations ago. Still as the pret-

FALL VISITING COSTUMES.

tiesfc things from each have been utilized we should not complain. The only thing that I can distinctly trace to that ancient king's time is the grass green that one sees now in ribbons, in velvet, silk and woolen goods and in kid gloves and slippers. And green is not the worst sin in gloves, for actually there are sky blue ones as well as a glaring shade of purple. They look really awful in the windows and boxes. They may look differently when worn with the proper costnmos. One thing is certain —the buttons are almost as fine as jewelry.

Next to the gloves in point of real necessity to a woman's ortfit come the different styles of neckwear. They are mere accessories, it is true, but what would a dress look like if the neck was finished off as it used to tie with a fine row of piping? It would look very bare and unpleasant. The high band, or dog collar, as soino call it, is the foundation for many dainty and becoming effects. Some fresh, bright young faces look pretty with plain bands entirely nntrimmed, but the most of us need something softer. Therefore the other things. Ruffs we know about, and stocks are not very new, yet are popular. Ribbons wound once or twice around the neck and tied in front or in tho back are still among the novelties, tho newness consisting in the way they are tied. Fichus of mull, lisse and lace are all seen in their proper times and places. The tiny little cape collars of feathers or fur, to wear with a low gown whilo not dancing, are very catching, they are so dainty. They aro of ostrich fines, cock plumes, emu feathers, swan's down and any of tho lighter furs. They are almost always fhmhed off with lace and ribbon. White luce and black, ivory, ecru and champagne color are all used, and, queer as it may sound, they really look well together. One very odd little boa was mado of stone marten, sewed flat. There was a bow of striped blue and slate ribbon in tho back under a ruftle of blaeJk lace. At the throat there was a double bow of ribbon mingled with laee, with a ridiculous little manufactured head. Another design had a row of light gray fur bordering a brown satin ruffle. This was also edged with white lace, and a double jabot and four little tails finished it. It was extremely pretty. One novelty is an incroyable stock and collar of white moira

The lafayttte, turret, bat demented and tudor collars aro all seen hourly. Each chooses for herself They are all stylish and fashionable. The wide and full feather boas are very mnrh liked, the one great reason why everybody does not have one being that they cost so much, it is said that ostrich plumes never had such a vogue as they have now and will have all winter. There are some very odd effects in made up foathers, where quills are cut into all manner of shapes, all being pretty when on a hat. Shirred brims are much liked, but, oh, the price one must pay I

Ono shirred satin hat, with a paste bueklo and two high omazon plumes,

XKW HATR, JACKETS ASD XKCKWKAR.

coet $95. Jnst think of it! it was the perfection of the work that made It coet so much, added to the name of the man milliner that designed it Any owe con Id make a shimd brimmed hat like that It might need three yards of satin and as many rows of featherbone piping cordl a* one wasted to run

in. These run in and the satin pushed over until the brim was formed is all there is to it. The crown is puffed up in Tam O'Shanter style, or it may be shirred too. If you don't know how to shirr and want a shirred bat, ask your grandmother and she will show you. Shirred velvet is very rich and handsome, but thick satin is preferred just now. All the materials for one of these hats in the very best quality would not cost $15. To itemize, 8 yards of satin, best quality, $6 featherbone at 8 cents per yard, 80 yards, 90 cents sewing silk, 15 cents lining for crown, 10 cents feathers, the very handsomest, $5, and a rbinestone buckle, say, $3. This is giving the very highest prices. It would take a clever woman one whole day to run the shirrs and pass the piping bone in and the next morning hours to sew it into its final shape and trim it A good way to get the brim right is to draw the pipings until they conform to the shape of the rim of some other hat. I am going to make one myself, but I shall not ticket it $95, though it will be just as good as those marked at that price.

The liking for braid as dress and cloak trimming grows daily and bids fair to be the best liked of all garniture unless it is jet passementerie, and that is not suitable for all fabrics. Some of the braided patterns are very elaborate and others are marked by elegant simplicity. The children share in the different braids. A fine effect is given a boy's overcoat by a fur collar and a row of military frogs and loops in soutache. Little girls have modest lines of narrow braid about their skirts and on their little coats, just like a real grown up'f tailor gown. OLIVE HARPER.

After Serious illness, like typhoid fever, pneumonia, or the grip, Hood's Sarsaparilla has wonderful strength-giving power.

Origin of the Ancient Etruscans.

We know less of the language used by the Etruscans than of many other details of their existence—only enough to be assured that it was of an exceedingly primitive type. It was constructed upon as fundamentally different a system from the Aryan tongues as is the Basque, described in our last paper. It seems to have been, like the Basque, allied to tho great family of languages which includes the Lapps, Finns and Hungarians in modern Europe and the aborigines of Asia and America. These unfortunate similarities led to all sorts of queer theories as to the racial origin of the people, as wild, many of them, as those invented for the Basques. It never occurred to any one to differentiate race, language and culture one from another, distinct as each of the trio may be in our eyes today. If a philologist found similarity in linguistic structure to the Lapp, he immediately jumped to the conclusion that the Etruscans were Lapps and Lapland the primitive seat of the civilization. Thus Taylor in his early work asserts an Asiatic origin akin to tho Finns. Then Pauli and Deecke for a time independently traced them to the same Turanian source.—Popular Scienoe Monthly,

Encouraging.

"Como in. sir," said the ardent young college graduate who had just established a literary paper in a flourishing town, according to the Chicago Tribune. "You aro my first caller. I dare say I am right in surmising that yon have come to extend a helping hand to this enterprise, so far, at least, as to enroll your name in the list of subscribers. It is no light task, I assure you, to publish a paper of this character, even in larger oities than this, and I look upon it as a duty every good citizen owes to himself to take advantage of every opportunity to improve his mind and elevate his literary taste—to say nothing of the larger duty ho owes to society."

First Caller—I don't mind subscribin fur the durned paiwr if you'll take your pay in sorghum molasses.

A Surprise.

A cook at a cheap boarding house played a little gamn on a grumbling boarder by serving him with a piece of sole leather instead of beefsteak.

You've changed your butcher, Mrs. Hascher?" said the boarder, looking up at the landlady, after sawing two or three minut sat the leather. "Same bmcher as usual," replied the boarding mistress, with a patronizing smile. "Why?" "Oh, nothing much," said the board er, trying to make an impression on the steak with his knife and fork, "onl. this piece of meat is the tenderest 1 have had in this house for some weeks.' —Strand Magazine.

How Screwdrivers Are Made. Some of the best screwdrivers are made from wornout cotton spindles. In days gone by these wornout spindles were thrown on to an old iron heap and left to rust until they were sold for old metal. Then somebody thought of grinding one end into a wedge and flattening the other. Result, a screwdriver of the best quality and a large percentage of extra profit for the cotton spinners.— Exchange.

Catarrh it

Disease

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Try Gratn-OI Try Graln-O! Ask your Grocer to-day to show you a package of GRAIN-O. the new food drink that takes the place of coffee. The children may drink it without Injury as well as the adult All who try it, like it GRAIN-O has that seal brown of Mocha or Java, hut it is made from pure grains, and the most delicate stomach receives It without distress. the price

coffee.

15c. and S5 eta, per package. Sold by all grocers. 4

Verlaine is the master of lyric expression, using,every delicate means in order t» express every shadow of his sentiment and to excite by harmonious sounds the nervous strings of the modern, impressionable listener. That is why the "young ones" considered him their leader and why he was called the first symbolist. The melodious, suggestive words, the strange, symbolic pictures, arouse in the soul of the reader the impression which the poet wishes to give him. "II pleure dans mon coeur, comme il pleut sur laville," gays the poet, and the use of assonance and alliteration ("pleure," "pleut") gives to the lines pleasing harmony and to the picture charm and color. To move the sensitive soul of the listener by the music of the rhyme, such is Yerlaine's aim.

When Leconte de Lisle died, one of the Parisian reviews asked the literati and artists who, after the author of "Poemes Barberes," was worthy to take up the national lyre. The votes were all for Yerlaine. The public of the boulevards was astonished at such an artistic plebiscitum. The new poet laureate was so little known. Nevertheless many lovers of poetry loved and admired him. But how many lovers of poetry are there?

Paul Verlaine died Jan. 9, 1896, and was buried two days later in Clichy cemetery. All the artistic and literary youth of Paris followed his coffin. Several eminent literati spoke at his grave.

Verlaine never soiled himself with a falsehood, nor did he humiliate himself by seeking the applause of the multitude. His lyre was not for sale.—M. S. 0. de Soissons in Forum.

Noted In the House of Commons.

Disraeli, noted, sat during a debate in dumb abstraction, never cheering and never interjecting a denial. There he sat, the man who recreated his party, Burely a gr^at achievement I have no doubt he leses friends by his apparent insouciance and the method in which he walks to his place without looking at anybody, but I surmise, from my own experience, that it arises from nearsightedness. I perceive that he cannot tell what o'clock it is without using his glass, and somebody told me lately that he saw him hailing a police van, mistaking it for an omnibus. His face is often haggard and his air weary and disappointed, but he has the brow and eyes of a poet, which are always pleasant to look upon. He generally says the right thing at the right minute and in the right way, and he is lustily cheered but, sitting among the opposition, I have abundant reason to note that he is not trusted. 'I'!

It is said that young Stanley and other youngsters of his class believe in him, and that the man who is so taciturn in parliament is a charming companion among his familiars luid is a gracious and genial host. Some of his postprandial mots steal out, and, I should think, make fatal enemies. Somebody asked him lately if Lord Robert was not a stupid ass. "No, no," said Benjamin, "not at all. He is a clever ass,"—Sir Charles Gavan Duffy iu Contemporary Review.

"How do you know thai: his51?" dream is over?" "Because I heard him tell Hetty as they left church last night that he knew a shorter way of reaching her home than the route they had been taking."—Detroit Free Press.

"Away With Melancholy, And bid dull care avaunt," sounds very well In verse, but If you have a case of the "blues" caused by Indigestion, with biliousness added on as an extra horror, you cannot say hey I presto! and thus insure the departure of those abominable twins. The "proper caper" when thus troubled Is to seek the aid of Hostetter's Stomach Bitters. Thereafter you will speedily digest with ease and eat with appetite, and your liver will reassert its right to regularity. Not only this, you can retire without a horrible dread that the Washington monument willIn dreams—Impose Itself upon the pit of your stomach. If you feel premonitory symptoms of chills and fever, kidney trouble, or rheumatism, summon the Bitters to the rescue without delay, "lest a worse thing befall you." A feeble condition of the system Is more speedily changed to a vigorous one by this fine tonic than by any other rt edlclnai agent in existence. A wineglassful three times a day.

Rebecca Wilkinson, of Brownsvalley, Ind., says: "I have been in a distressed condition for three years from nervousness, weakness of the stomach, dyspepsia and indigestion tmtil my health was gone. I had been doctoring constantly with no relief. I bought one bottle of South American Nervine, which did me more good than any ISO worth of doctoring I ever did in my life. I would advise every weakly person to use this valuable and lovely medicine a few bottles of it h'as cured me completely. I consider it the grandest medicine In the world." Warranted the most wonderful stomach and nerve cure ever known. Sold by all druggists in Terre Haute, Ind|

The Continuoaa Performance. One man, evidently a play actor, and another man, who evidently wasn't, were coming down in an elevated railroad car on Sixth avenue. *4How are you getting on?" asked the man who wasn't "Oh, only so so at flaia season of the year. Instead of going on the vaudeville stage I started out in tragedy but Ms played out Snch hamfatters as y, Barrett, Forrest, McCullough an^ atfen of that ilk have ruined that line of business, and there's nothing in it now." "Why don't you try the continuous performance racket? I see that some first class people are in it now." "Oh, it won't last It's a new idea, and it's being run into the ground." 0|"I think you're wrong about its being a new idea," said the man whe wasn't. "I remember having seen a continuous performance when I was a little boy, and my grandfather has told me that the same show was drawing big crowds when he was a youngster.' 44

What was it?" asked the man who was doubtingly. "Niagara falls."—New York Commercial

TERRE HAUTE SATURDAY EVENING MAIL, OCTOBER 30, 1897.®

Faal Yerlaine. "3

HIS UNIQUE LIBRARY.

An Italian Bibliophile Who Keeps a Fralt Stand. [Special Correspondence.]

NASHVILLE, Oejt 25.—Possibly it is a result of ata"f^|. The owner and gatherer of -uay be of classic strain, reverting to the original type. He is an Italian of Italians. His name is Vincente Costello, his business the selling of fruit from a street stand, his local habitation Nashville.

He came to this city a good many years back, knowing no letter in any man's book and speaking no word of any tongue but his own. Naturally he had hard lines at first Good luck made him acquainted with a learned man and kindly, who, seeing something in the stout young stripling, was at the pains of teaching hin his letters and some faint rudiments of English.

Faint as they were, they sufficed to waken in the young Italian a passion for books and the reading thereof. It is a passion that has never flagged. The fruit business has brought him to decent if modest competence. He lives with wife and child in airy apartments in a good quarter some small way from his store. There is a piano for the girl, who if rising 12, and pictures of Humbert the Good and Margherita, the Pearl of Savoy, upon the walls. Queen Victoria is there, too, and his royal highness the Prince of Walea Yet for all that Vincente Costello is a good American citizen, fully imbued with republican ideas. Over against the royalties hangs the picture of Garabaldi, the liberator, with various and sundry great Americans to keep him company Mid countenance.

The pictures, however, claim but a passing glance. It is the books you have come to see. They are well worth looking at. All the spare space is taken up with tall cases, whose shelves are jrowded in double rows with the cream of modern literature—English, French and Italian.

Those three languages the master of the library reads and after a fashion speaka His reading is methodic and to a degree continuoua He keeps a big box of books at his shop and spends each fragment of leisure in their company. He reads also at night, and if ho wakes restlessly anywhere after midnight turns on the light and buries himself jn some one of his beloved volumes.

By consequence ho is learned—riot only beyond most fruit sellers, but above the average of ordinary business men. Not infrequently he and his library are called upon to settle some nice point of pronunciation or some knotty one of grammar or history. He has become, indeed, a sort of literary court of last resort for gentlemen of any cloth who happen to disagree about such matters.

He has dictionaries galore—in all three languages cyclopedias, too, likewise polyglot and rare editions of Greek and Latin classics. Gibbon's "Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire" is on the shelves both in English and Italian. You find there, too, exquisitely kept, but with marks of use, full sets of Herbert Speucer, Huxley, Tyndall, Darwin, Carlyle and Ruskin. Taine is there and Guizot and Renan and Hugo some volumes of Thiers also and, very plentifully, the French classics.

Altogether the library embraces about 6,000 volumes. A good many of them are old and nearly all of literary value. Fiction is almost conspicuously absent. A few very old Italian novels and a set of Dickens in 44 volumes, with illustrations by Landseer, Cruikshank and other famous artists, serve to represent the imaginative side of literature. But the poets from Dante and Shakespeare down to Swinburne and Rossetti are there in force There are several Sbakespeares, indeed—one a big illustrated quarto, the bare sight of which fills a book lover with longing and somewhat envious desire^ *5 l£

There are Bibles,Latin.^'Greek, French, Italian, English—the English several t-tnes over. In fact, it would be hard to name any conspicuous branch of literature that has not helped to fill Vincente Costello's shelves. Taken as a whole, his library is as unique as it is interesting. Nowhere in the world, perhapa is there a nobler exemplification of native bent triumphing over unfavoring environment.

MARTHA MCCULLOCH WILLI AM A

—55T—

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My wife," writes a fond husband, looks ten years younger since she began to take Dr. Greene's Nervura. She was in a terrible condition. She began to be nervous several years ago. I did not notice it at first, but she gradually grew worse. After a little she could not sleep. She lost her appetite. Then she became irritable and morose, and from the sweetest and best tempered woman in the world she became Mure wish and hysterica?. Finally she began to fade awav. You know there is a difference between women who grow old naturally and women who fade out from the effects of disease. I think I am as devoted and patient as any husband, but I must confess that my wife's unfortunate condition was a sore trial. I do not know what would have become of us if things had gone on as they were. The change for the better came suddenly. There was a complete transformation within a few days. Sound sleep and a hearty appetite came as nervousness and irritability went I did not know what the matter was until she told me that she had been impressed by the sincerity and common sense of Dr. Greene's advertisements, and had been taking his Nervura. From misery and despondency she is now the happiest person in the world, with the possible exception of myself."

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TEN YEARS YOUNGER.

A Hapfe Husband's Story.

GREAT BLOOD

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Dr. Greene's Nervura acts directly upon the nerves and blood, which are the life. Exhaustion, irritability and moroseness are banished, and the circulation is strengthened and purified like a mountain stream. The office of Dr. Greene's remedies,

148

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