Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 28, Number 10, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 4 September 1897 — Page 6

THE AUTUMN STYLES.

INDICATE ONS OF GOOD TASTE IN DESIGN AND TRIMMING.

Blouses and Eton, Figaro and Bolero Jackets Will Still Be Worn—Shepherd Cheeks Will Be Popular Color Design*.

Sleeves and Tailor Gowns. [Copyright, 1897, by the Author.]

I think from present indications that the gowns and in fact all the garments for the fall will be marked by good common sense in style and in trimming. So far all tbe model gowns and the pattern importations are pleasing to tbe eye and comforting to tbe judgment. There are many and various kinds of basquea, some abort on tbe hip and some long enongb to be called coats. Where tbe waist is gathered there is a frill below tbe belt more or less ornate and intend-

NEW FALL DESIGNS.

ed to be worn ontside tbe skirt. Blonses are also out in force, and eton, figaro and bolero jackets are sbown qnite as often as they were last spring. One head of a great house here told me that there would not be 20 woolen gowns in 100 that would not have some sort of a jaoket arrangement to the waist, real or simulated, and that the fur eton would be very popular again with young women of good figures.

The Russian blouse is a very pleasing stylo, and in several instances I found them made very ingeniously of canvas and iron frame grenadine worked in silks of different colors in the cross stitch we know so well under tbe name of Bulgarian embroidery. The blouse, oollar and a baud of trimming to go on tbe rufti«d part are all of the canvas or grenadine, while the sleeves match tbe skirt. This is extremely pretty and girlish and would be worn with propriety by young ladies for afternoon home woar. Anew idea is to have the puffed portion of the sleeves laid in three stitched tucks about two inches apart. That causes the material to set out well instead of a cap.

Shepherd checks are expeoted to be very popular both for home and ordinary street dresses. These checks are suitable for any one, acoording to how they are made. For a matronly lady they can be in priucess shape with whatever trimming there is ftiid in long lines. For a younger woman a very neat design is shown in one of tbe new models. This has tho skirt made in five gores all cut as nearly on the straight as possible. Around tho bottom thero are four narrow bias folds of the same. The bodice has a shirt waist of silk of the color of the lightest shade in the goods, the front plait laying in folds, edged on the sides with lace bordered frills. The belt is wide and made of many folds of the material. Thero is a short figaro, with a flat oollar in sailor shapo. The sleeves are plain, with a drooping puff.

So far I see no probability of any radical change in sleeves. In view of the present designs for fall and winter I cannot see how thero could be. There is tho long, wrinkled mousquetaire sleeve, with lace frills or fancy cuffs at the wrists, and auothor style consisting of a series of very full puffs from the top to tho wrist. These have 11 puffs. Another kind lias six puffs and another three. This last design has a deep frill at the olbow where it euds and another at the top as a cap. Another model, for dressy wear, is in one puff, ending at the elbow with a deep lace frill. For tailor gowns, coats and for many other dresses the leg o' mutton sloeve is still the best style, but it is not large, nor does tbe top fall in wrinkles as before. Stiff lining is put inside at the top, and this is laid in plaits which cause it to

Btand

out in a straight line with the shoulder. These sleeves are trimmed as suits the

KFTGUGER AKt DRESSING SACKS. modiste. One other distinct style is a very snog coat sleeve shape swelling at the top into a round, scanty and ugly puff, looking more like an excrescence than auything else. This is intended Boost particularly to afford a support for tbe cap. 1 see less of these than before and hope there will be fewer still, •specially on tailor dresses. Tbey do

not look so much oat of place on mare dressy house gowns. Tailor gowns will be unusually popular this fa!!, if one may judge by tbe pains taken in providing them. In cloth tbey are elegant, and the favorite mode of trimming them is with a little neat braiding. Braiding always was pretty. The thick braids show up well and require really little work and a small amount of braid to achieve a good effect.

Tbe narrow plaited raffles are as much employed as before for waists and waist decoration. They are too pretty to willingly throw aside. On several model bodices and basques we find the very wide revere and fiat collars again. These generally reach to the bottom of the waist, and of necessity leave the front open in vest form to be filled in with whatever kind of a vest one likes. Tbe nearest approach to any kind of shirt waist I saw was one india silk in indigo blue and white. The onffs, oollar and tie were of surah in the same shade. Down the front amid the plaits were four rows of black silk mall raffles edged with blue stitching. There was also a fall bloase made of striped india in brown and cream. The sleeves were wrinkled. The belt and stock were folded, and the vest front filled in with cream colored chiffon. Sleeves, caps, front and neck were all finished with ruffles of the silk in the finest folds and lengthwise of the silk, which added to its dressiness. We shall have seen probably the last of the shirt waists in a few short weeks, but then they said that a year ago, and we have had tbem right along and may have them next year.

Among some of tbe daintiest and prettiest of tbe things now being made ready for public inspection I saw some negligee sacks, and they are well worth a few words, as they form so important apart of a lady's wardrobe. One was of ciel blue china crape. The front was laid in tucks to form a yoke. Tbe back was in watteau folds, tbe sides tight fitting and the fronts loose. The pretty sleeves had a large bow with ends made of the crape in place of caps. A beautiful jabot of lace was on the front. Tbe collar was daintily made of the silk and lace.

A sack for a semi-invalid was of rose colored surah made plain in the back and with long tabs in front. The beauty of it was the very full ruffles of wide lierre lace that bordered it all around. A new design in a tea jacket had a figaro of rich white lace set upon tbe upper part of a plaited jacket of delicate russet green soft silk. Tbe oollar was of lace, and there was also a jabot and wrist frills of the same. A'line of rich satin ribbon matching the green in the silk was gathered along under the figaro and ended in pretty bows at eaoh side of the waist. The sleeves were gathered very full and the tops draped under, making graceful caps. A dressing sack was dainty and neat. It was of faint blue Japanese silk and cutrin one length from neck to hem. There was a yoke outlined with embroidery in dark blue on tbe pale. The sleeves were what is called umbrella, and very graceful and becoming they were too. Dark blue ribbon tied as cravat bow and to belt it in made a last finish to a pretty and useful sack. This model, I noticed, had been copied in a dozen different materials, some trimmed with lace and some with embroidery. Others had clever arrangements of Bulgarian embroidery and still others had Hamburg edgings. HENRIETTE ROUSSEAU.

HOME NOTES.

A Few Facts That May Often Be Put to Good Use.

Try washing the bands with a little sugar added to the soap. This greatly increases the lather and oleansing powers and will remove dirt, chemical stains, etc.

When tired and weary after a day's outing or traveling, it is a great mistake to plunge tbe face into cold water, which really acts as an irritant, whereas tepid water produces quite the contrary effect. After washing off tbe dust on face and ears a little buttermilk, or, failing that, rosewater dabbed on will soothe and whiten tbe skin, taking away tbe feeling of irritation.

To preserve cream during hot weather the following recipe is useful: Dissolve in water an equal weight of white sugar with cream to be preserved, using only just enough water to melt the sugar and make a rich sirup. Boil this and while still warm add the cream, stirring all together. Wheu cold, place in a bottle and cork tightly.

To remove mildew from linen soap the spots with good yellow soap, then rub with powdered chalk, lay the linen in the open air where the sun shines directly on it Dampen it once or twice as it dries and if necessary repeat the application.

To clean satin mix together 3 ounces of soft soap, 9 ounoes of honey, about half the beaten white of an egg and 9 tablespoonfuls of gin. Apply this mixture with a piece of flannel, working always in one direction, rinse off with cold water, let it drain and iron upon the wrong side, after wrapping in clean towels for two hours to dry. This mixture may be poured into pots and kept covered for use.

Practice Economy

In buying medicine as in other matters. It is economy to get Hood's Sarsaparilla because there is more medicinal value in Hood's Sarsaparilla than in any other. Every bottle of Hood's Sarsaparilla contains 100 doses and will average, taken according to according to directions, to last a month, while others last hut a fortnight.

Hood's Pills are the only pills to take with Hood's Sarsaparilla. Easy and yet efficient.

Kvarvbody Says So.

Caacarets Candy Cathartic, the most won* derful medical discovery of the age, pleas' ant and refreshing to the taste, act geotljr and positively on udoeys, liver and bowels, cleansing the entire system, dispel colds, cure beadaohe, fever, habitual constipation and biliousness. Please hoy sad try a box ofC.C.C. to-day JO, 33^50 centa. ooidaod guaranteed to cure hjr all druggists.

THE AUTUMN STYLES.

RUSSIAN BLOUSE WAISTS OF WQOLELN GOODS PROMISE TO BE POPULAR.

The Colors Hay Be Light and Bright, but Soft Grays Will Also Be Seen—Velvet

Ribbon

Trimming—Camel's Hair Curl

Cloth and Figured Black Wools.

[Special Correspondence. $ NEW YORK, Aug. 30.—Contrary to all expectation, the Russian bloase Waist has taken a front place among the separate bodices for winter, and it eannot be denied that tbey are stylish, trimmed as tbe most of them are with

NEW

BLOUSE WAISTS.

braid in military fashion. And, by'the way, there are a number of the new winter coats and those for fall trimmed in hussar style, with loops of oord across tbe chest and piquets hanging down. This was always a very striking and handsome style for tall women, but suicidal for short, stout ones.

To return to tbe blouse waists. These are to be made of woolen goods and plain surahs, or other stuffs, as tbe plaid silks made and provided for the silk shirt waist would look very much cut of place, though without the distinguishing braid across the chest there might be some blouse shaped waists made of the fancy plaids. Clan plaids would not look well, as they, to look their best, should be so disposed as to gathers that tbe plaid figure would show perfectly. The number ard the beauty of tbe new plaid taffetas insure the lease of life of the silken shirt waist for all winter and into spring.

Tbe materials most in use for the Russian blouse waists are serge, light cloth, canvas, cashmere and in some oases fine flannel. The colors are as a rule light and bright, but in wools there are soft grays, drabs and slates, as well as blues and greens. Qreen cashmere or oloth for the Russian blouses with the black cord trimming is rich and handsome, besides being quite Russian. There are surab and liberty silk blouses in Russian shape, with trimming of lace ribbon tucks or frills around and around from top to bottom, all opening on the left side, as do the most of the oloth blouses, but the lighter ones have jabots, frills, oascades or some other fanciful lace and ribbon arrangement. Some of these blouses have not only the waist, but sleeves laid in tucks from top to bottom, the sleeves being finished off with lace frills. I noticed One made of pink liberty silk, with insertion bands of black lace laid aronnd tbe sleeves, caps and belt, and also tbe collar band. Four rows were put across tbe front. This was caught up at the front of tbe collar in a festoon. It olosed on the side with a band of tbe insertion and a black lace frill as trimming. Some of these light silks have latticework on tbem made of black or white lace insertions, and some have diagonal lines of the insertion. Others have lattices or double crosses of black velvet ribbon. Qreek key pattern is also very popular.

Speaking of velvet ribbon, I find many elegant garments trimmed with it in straight rows and also many other devices. Dresses are trimmed with black and also velvet ribbon in the same color as the gown, but several shades darker.

Among the most elegant of the new importations for fall and winter are

FALL COSTUMES.

some camel's hair curl cloth. This is really fine, and comes in black only. There are the straggling whit* hairs, and among them are little soft flat onrls of vicuna. A rich new English cheviot is shown as soft to the touch as cashmere and as firm as melton cloth. Tbe weave is close and fine and diagonal, like all cheviot. This goods is woven in wales of many widths. It is 58 inches wide and is expensive, bnt of sterling value. Camel's hair is shown in black in many weaves, some fine and others loose, hut all refined. The tendency is sltogether in favor of softer woolena. The figured black wools with •ilk warp and Australian wool and mohair figures are to be worn even more than they have been, tbey being so admirably well adapted for wearing with shirt waists. Ours HAWKS.

He Would Not Deny It.

A federal jndge lately charged a jury in a-iiquor case as follows: "In later years there seems to have been a disposition to deny or ignore judicial knowledge as to what constitutes intoxicating liquors, and tbe courts have manifested a desire to disavow any judicial knowledge on this subject. At the same time some of the courts have not hesitated to impute to juries an extensive knowledge and information in this regard. This oonrt, however, will follow the precedent established by the decision of Chancellor Walworth upon this subject and will assume judicial knowledge-concerning intoxicating liquors. In a trial in the state of Wisconsin, where this question arose in 1888, the trial judge declared that a man must be a driveling idiot who did not know what beer was, and that it was not necessary to prove it to be an intoxicatnig liquor. "Later tbe supreme court of that state, in passing on the charge of tbe trial judge, declared that hid rulings in the case upon this question were not only clearly correct, but if his peculiar manner gave them force and emphasis it was not only proper, but commendable. This court, therefore, will neither stultify itself nor impeach its own veracity by telling you that it has not judicial knowledge that the liquor commonly known as 'whisky' is an intoxicating liquor or that the drink oom* monly called a 'whisky cocktail' is an intoxicating drink."—Lease and Comment

Wesley and Methody.

Louis XIV's famous saying, "I am the state," iB not far from being applicable to Wesley, however he would have revolted from saying, "I am the oburch." But unquestionably the prolongation of his life as both tbe apostle and lawgiver of his church trough out the whole of its adolescent and formative period, during which it was plastio to his organizing and guiding hand, secured to it both its stable basis and its symmetrical development Asa preacher second only to that incomparable Wbitefleld whom a skeptio like Huxce said ha would go 20 miles to hear as a hymnist second only to bis peerless brother Charles, who has given €27 hymns to the Methodist hymn book, he was pre-eminent in fitness for patriarchal administration and government No man has come so near tbe position of a Protestant pope. In Great Britain his sole jndgment sufficed to exolude any member or minister deemed unworthy.

In America, in 1770, tbe deed of the old John Street church, the first Methodist church in America, restricted its use to such persons as Wesley should appoint. This autocratio constitution was but a natural incident of the period of tutelage through which scattered societies, mainly composed of the humbler sort of people, with their visible bond chiefly in the person of their beloved founder and father, grew at length into a fully organized church in the form of a Presbyterian episcopacy.—Outlook.

V, Calling the thickens.

In England the calls chuck, chuck, or coop, coop, prevail in Virginia, ooo-che, coo-che in Pennsylvania, pee, pee. This latter call is widely, employed, being reported from Germany, Spain (as pi, pi), Bulgaria, Hungary, Bavaria and the Tyrol. In the Austrian province the term is used in combination, thus: Pulla, pi, pi the oall pul lele, pul, pul, also occurs there.

In some parts of Germany the poultry are called with tick, tiok in Prussia, put, put, and young chickens with tnk, tuk (Grimm), and schip, schip, the latter being an imitation of their own cry. In eastern Prussia hens are called with kluckschen, kluck, kluck also tippchen, tipp, tipp. Grimm records also pi, pi, and tiet, tiet. Weiuhold reports from Bavaria bibi, bibeli bidli pi, pi, and pol, pul.

In Denmark the oall is pootle in Holland, kip, kip in Bohemia, tyoo in Bulgaria, tiri, tiri.—Amerioan Anthropologist

A Desperate Woman. Experts in insanity telll us that when anyone goes' insane, frequently their whole nature is reversed. They do and say exactly the opposite things to what they would do in their sane minds. A mother whose mind breaks down under extreme nervous tension may turn upon the one object in all the world most precious to her—her baby.

The terrible nervous tension under which many women live and suffer because of some weakness or disease of their sex, keeps tbem on the very verge of insanity. The constant drag and drain upon the complicated and delicate organism affects the whole nervous system and works upon the brain with an almost irresistible madness.

Thousands of suffering women have been literally saved from the insane asylum by the timely influence of Dr. Pierce's Favorite Prescription. It is the one perfect and positive specific for every derangement of woman's special organism. It is a scientific and permanent cure for those severe, chronic, complicated cases which doctors usually consider hopeless. It is the only medicine of its kind devised hy an educated and skilled physician.

Mrs. Sarah E. Rains, of Dayton, Cass Co.. Mo., in a letter to Dr. Pierce, writes: It was in the winter of 1890 that my suffering* commenced. It was close to my time of confinement. I took the grip, and that with the labor pains all went to my head. I suffered dreadfully, and when 1 gave birth to my little boy I kept getting worse. I doctored bat nothing did me any good. I had nervous spasms and was delirious—Oh, no tongue cut express my sufferings. I was advised by a lady to try

yoar

medicine and 1 did. I got one

bottle of the favorite Prescription and on? of tbe 'Golden Medical Discovery.' bad taken two-thirds of the medicine when it commenced lbs work. I began to fed better, and still continued getting better. In a short time I felt like another woman. I gained strength and flesh. I am now fafty-ose years of age. This is true, and It was your medicine that saved my life."

Dr. Pierce's iooo-page illustrated book, "The People's Medical Adviser" sent, paperhound, free for th* cost of mailing only,

Much in Little

Is especially true of Hood's PI 11^ for no medicine ever contained so great curative power In so small space. They are a whole medicine

chest, always ready, always efficient, always satisfactory prevent a cold or fever, cure all liver ills, sick headache, Jaundice, constipation, etc. 25c. The only Pills to take with Hood's Sarsaparilla.

Pills

DAILEY & CllAIG

503 OHIO STB."EET. Give them a call if yon have any kind of Insurance to place. They will write you in as good companies as are represented in the city.

gAMUEL M. HUSTON, Lawyer, Notary Public.

Rooms 3 and 4.517H Wabash avenue. Telephone. 457.

The Rosy Freshness And a velvety softness of the skin is invariably obtained by those who use POSXONI'S Complexion Powder.

10*

25* SO

Up! Up! Up-to-date

one-cent stamps or, cloth-bound 31 stamps. Address Dr. R. V. Pierce. Sulfate, N. Y.

To Care Coasttfmttoa Forever* Take Cascareta Candy Cathartic 10c or SSe.

If C. C. C. fall to core, druggists refund money.

yt «s

*3"'

BETTER THAN EVER

The 1897 BEN-HUB BICYCLES embody more new and genuine improvements in construction than any other bicycles now before the public. Never before have such excellent values been offered for the money. Our new line, consisting of eight superb models at $60, $75 and $125 for single machines, and $150 for tandems, with the various options offered, is such that the most exacting purchaser can be entirely suited.

CENTRAL CYCLE MFQ. CO..

72 GAROBN STRUT. INDIANAPOLIS* I NO. oun

FINS POSTS A OATALOOUB MAILSD FOR TWO S-OBNT STAMPS.

George Rossell, Agent,

720-723 Wabash Avenue. TERRE HAUTE, IND

B. G. HUDNUT, President. WILLARD KIDDER, Vice-President. G. A. OONZMAN. Cashier.

Vigo County National Bank

Capital $150,000. Surplus $30,000.

O E I N I E I A IN 3 I E

624 Main Street. TERRE HAUTE, IND.

Printing

CoXcflflfo

ELY'S CRKAM BALM ia a positive euro. Apply into the nostrils. It is quickly absorbed. SO cents at Druggists or by mail samples lGc. by mail. KLY BROTHERS, 66 Warren St., New York City.

Mr. ft Mrs. Hesry Kstzesbsch,

Funeral Directors

And Embalmers. Livery and Boarding Stable. All calls promptly attended to. Office open day and night. Telephone 210. Nos. 18-20 N. Third street.

GEO. HAUCK &CO.

Dealer in all kinds of

O A

Telephone 33. 049 Main Street.

KEEP YOUR BOWELS STRONG ALL SUMMER I

lANDY CATHARTIC

robtaTveAb

CURE CONSTIPATION

A tablet now and then will prevent dlarrhma, dysentery, nil summer complaints, causing easy, natural results. Sample and booklet free. Ad. STEHLIN6 KEMEDY CO.,Ghlca(jo, Montreal, Can., orNow York. t70

ALL

DRUGGISTS

Moore & Langen's