Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 28, Number 5, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 31 July 1897 — Page 6

A QUAINT OLD CITY.

I RIEF STUDY OF HISTORIC QUEBEC AND ITS PEOPLE.

The Caleehr T)river—Where Montgomery Fell Kbnft» to Commemorate Noble Dfed*—A City of Stairs The DaJTerin

Terr»ce—A Fine I'roim-nade.

[Special Correspondence.!

QUEBEC. July ~tj.—One cannot look tipon Qaebrc at proseut and remember •w hat the ci has been without crying "IchaUid!" Forty years ago the city was commercially great. Today commerce passe by doors, and the city Rces those neljif* w.'-seis which formerly dropped aueL' in

hat

harbor sail past

and tip th» river to the farther inland ports of Montreal. Her once enormous shipping trade is now done by a few Norwegian sailing vessels, but the advent of steam has orivt out sail almost entirely. Qui bee dot's not live up to the times, and the tim» have left her a city of half century ago.

Great warehouses once teeming with busy life are deserted, and in many cases fallen to pieces. Decayed and grass grown walls on both sides of the

/?m\\

BRKAKN'KCK STAIH8, CUAMPLAIX STREET, river tell a tale of rise, decline and fall. Where 2H miles of wharfs did not suffice for the shipping, it is now confiued within the radius of half a mile.

Splendid residences, once the scene of wealth and gayety, are now untenanted unless by rats. Many of the former great business firms have dissolved or passed away. Empty and useless buildings are other evidences that Quebec was once a flourishing city. Great merchants of bygone years aro eking out an existenco in some small government office or living on tho wrecks of their former fortunes.

The trade of Quebec is today petty. Tourists vihit. the city, climb the steep steps, examine the citadel and tho old fashioned cannon, see the wall that surrounded the city proper and listen to the romantic stories of the guide.

In fact, tho tourist is one of the principal sources of revenuo to the city, and the guide and calecho, or cab driver, make tho most of him. Most of these jehus are Frenchmen, but they always know English enough to collect their fares, and some of them are sufficiently familiar with modern business methods to get twice or thrice what is really due them. My calecho driver was a sou of Krin, and thus brimful of information ns well as wit. "Shall I take ye/, where bravo Gineral Montgomery fell?" said ho to mo as noon as he had me into his two wheeled vehicle. "It's only yonder by the heights. Sure, 'twns ail awful fall he had."

I said mildly that I had heard Genoral

MontKOmery was trying

the heights

and

by a fall,

but.

to elimb

that he was killed not

the

enemy's bullets.

"There r.• others as will tell ye different,"said the merry driver, "but it's thrue as fell it t'ye."

A little later we came to the building erected on the site of the little house in which Miuitg.iniery's remains were laid, and 1 directed the attention of my guide to the inscription which stated that Montgomery was killed while "scalii^" tho heights. "And isn't seal in runnin awav?" he replied warmly. "!i 1 shtnle from ye and rati asva, wouldn't 1 lie soaiin?"

Quebec's well known anticjiuuian, Mr. Lemoiue, who was knighted by Queen V'etoria a Veer ago. \\u« riding with an American ft it nil one ami they had nil expeiienee very much like mine. "This Montgomery was a line young Ulan.. I knew hint well," said thej driver.

lady.

"You did?" said Mr. Lemoine'a friend. "1 did," said the driver. "Ho was a young British officer sent out here in the service, and be fell in love with fine young

Hut you know how

they are in England about marrying iu the colonies. His jH'ople wouldu't have it, and so one day he jumped over aud was killed."

Thus history is made in Quebec, but there is no reason why any oue who visits the city should remain in ignorance of the historic memories which hang about it. Every spot of interest is marked plainly with a monument or a tablet bearing a full inscription in English. and few of the English speaking people are a« ignorant a* some of the enleche dru' ss. E\en the iiftW boys on the street rattle off history! Id vou with a v,v it v. If has been rubbed into th.-?» -me.- 1 .a by hood by! contact with !/.

QU( h..s af' tnne and marhle av.'.\ a- r.r.'V iv,« rv?e hero'.o t\'. .-'..'a mark,,: 1 *hyr ri«( i:i ev-

i.iry

have

reserved the right to approve the memorial and the site selected for it Doubtless a shelf will be cnt in the rock at Cape Diamond, and the column will be erected there.

Hills and Streets.

The streets of Quebec are even more involved than those of Boston. They constitute one of the features of the city which progress will never touch. Nothing but an eruption of nature can deprive Quebec of her five hills, and so 'T-'/r.s the hills remain the curving, •tain streets will be unchanged. con Id even the tough, wiry caleche climb the Rue Montagne with its t.t gree slope if the street did not wind up the battery in the form at a letter S? How could the little car horses gallop madly up Fabrique street if the curve from John street and into Buade street was not gradual?

St. John street is typical. Beginning at the St. John gate, an extension of the St. John road, it runs in a reasonably straight line for four or five squares and then gradually curves to the right. At the curve it empties into three streets, each going to the right, but with different degrees of abruptness. Any one of these three might be John street, but none of them is. John street (the inhabitants seldom use the prefix) ends at the curve, and its broadest extension is called Fabrique street. These two are the principal shopping streets of the city. Fabrique street runs steadily up grade to the Basilica, the great Catholic church which faces the half finished walls of the new city hall. Bunning on the other side of the city hall, parallel with Fabrique, is Buade street. This thoroughfare ends abruptly two squares beyond at the landing of one of the long flights of iron steps which are short cuts up and down hill for pedestrians. Originally there were wooden steps of uncertain strength at different points along the hillsides, and the irregularity of one flight earned for it the name of breakneck steps.'' It ran from the curve in the letter S of the Rue Montagne down to La Petite Champlain, or Little Champlain street. These steps are still a curiosity to visitors, though now they are by no means the worst steps in the city. I saw a flight coming down the full length of the hillside in another part of the town which must have contained 100 shallow steps. Up and down went a clattering cro\yd of people. There was only one way to surmount the hill at this point, or, in fact, at any point but one, and that was by climbing. There is an elevator ("ascenseur," the French Canadians call it), but that runs from the terrace in front of the Frontenac to Little Champlain street and the lower town.

Primitive Qucbec.

Bnt if the artist cannot sit at the foot of tho breakneck steps aud sketch their rickety length now he can post himself on the new iron stairway and sketch Little Champlain street to his heart's content. Here at least is a bit of Quebec untouched by vandal hand. The old houses, many of them untenanted now, back up against the cliff, and those which are occupied pour their clouds of chimney smoke almost into the faces of tho people looking down from the terrace. The wooden flooriug of the street resounds only to the occasional rattle of a grocer's cart. The grocer and the butcher own Little Champlain street now. They took its honses for debt, for as tho shipping trade of Quebec fell off some years aRO Little aud Big Champlain lost, their tenants, and the houses bocame bankrupt property.

That part of the Basso ville which lies along tho line of Little and Big Champlain streets, just below the terrace, is the most primitive aud unique part of Quebec.

Big Champlain street and Little Champlain street are the chief thorough fares of this quarter. Between Big Champlain and tho river is the Champlain market. Notre Dame square, with its curious old French hotel on one side and its church on the other, is only two squares away. The church is of 1680, but you will read on the walls within that it has beeu rebuilt and that only tho old material remains of the original structure. Here, too, you may road of the two occasions when tho French saw the Band of Providence in their deliverance from the British, aud so named the church first Notre Dame de Victoire aud later Notre Dame des Victoires. linffprin Terrace.

I havo spoken of the crooked hills and abrupt streets of Quebec, of its quaint but hospitable people, of its primitive street cars, one line of which suspends operations at 8 o'clock every evening and does not begin running until aoou on Sunday, of its old buildings and its points of historic interest. I have not spoken of the gem among its attractions, tho Duffer in terraoe, with its commanding view of the St. Lawreuce. When Lord Dufferin was governor general of Canada, he proposed the extension of this terrace and finally made of it the broad promenade which begins just beyond the Chateau Frontenac and extends to the base of the citadel. In his honor it has been called Dufferin terrace since, though the title was not legalized until 1895. This terrace is bnilt on the brow of the cliff overhanging the lower town. To left and right, as yon stand in one of tbe five picturesque pagodas, extends the wooden flooring of the promenade. In front and far below you is the broad St. Lawrence. Beyond are the heights of Levis, with its three faintly defined forts. Directly below are the buildings of the lower town, chief among them the Champlain market To tbe left not far away is tbe circle of the Grand battery, with its row of antiquated cannon still pointing their mu*stles at an imaginary foe. Beyond the battery is the Charles River, its tanks lined with the white houses of village* wt close together. The famous bib Of Monssnor-r-nci are within range, of a bat not of the naked eye, br.T -WIKTV their waters Sow into the L*wtT:j»«v is the graceful curve of the wi»«u isle of Orleans, dividing tin* current of the river.

SOKT!K GRASTRA* BJJS.

."VI

THE GENOA OF TODAY

PI"

HOW AN ANCIENT CITY IS BEING AMERICANIZED WITH ENTERPRISE.

Holae Rampant and Mediaeval ism Destroyed—Trolleys and Land Booms—Ancient Palaces Tnrned Into Offices—The

Beaattfnl "Holy City."

{Special Correspondence.]

GENOA, Italy, July 10.—The Americans have captured Genoa. Hence the chief seaport of Italy is the noisiest city in the country. If you are from New York or Boston, you are used to noise of course, but Genoa is a mediaeval city, and you expect it to be mediaeval still in its habits. Considering your expectations, tbe noise is maddening^ and because yon are disappointed you do not endure tbe noise peaceably, as you would in Boston or New York. Above all, you wish Americans had never captured Genoa, for pandemonium reigus night aud day.

The noise, I am bound to say, is mostly in the new quarter, for the city is divided into two quarters, the new and the old. The old hates the new because it is noisy, and the new despises the old because it is sleepy.

In the old quarter live the descendants of honorable and ancient families, with their coats of arms aud their retainers. In the new quarter have come tbe Americans with their inventions and their big shop windows and their din. In other words, tbe old quarter is the residence section the new, the business center.

Meauwhile the new quarter of Genoa no more represents Italian city life than Saratoga represents American country life.

It is unfortunate therefore that the new hotels, the ones offering the most comforts, are in the new quarter. So here we are installed in a hotel which, but for certain features, might be in New York or Chicago, one of tbe places which are ruining the real Italian hotels on the other side of the town.

The first night I bad a room looking on the inner court. People in the court talked all night, making a hum as in a hive. It was not soothing, sol asked for a quiet room. This time I was put iu a 6 by 9 room fronting on the street. Like the other room, the floor of this one was

THE CAMPO SANTO AT GENOA.

of stone. That is Italian. But it was also filled with cheap American furniture. I turned out tho gas—pas, mind you—but the room was still flooded with lipht. I groaned. Those electric lights on the street meant a sort of green daylight iu my room all night.

Then the noises began. There was a sizzling, a pounding, a rumbling, a clanking and a hissing. I flew to the window. Good heavens 1 Could this be a mediieval city? A trolley car was passing. A trolley car in mediaeval Genoa 1 Preposterous! Tho next day I moved to a hotel on a quiet street iu the old portion of tho town, where the rooms were largo and the bills were small where there were no "ascenseurs" aud no electric lights and no trolley cars.

With these trolley cars, by tho way, the Genoese aro having nuch trouble and many accidents. An American syndicate scut them over, but it forgot to send skilled hands to run them. For the present they are run by native Genoese who havo been in America, chiefly men who were organ grinders, peanut venders aud banana sellers. Of these there is a big colony. They huddle in the new quarter of the town jusfc as tbey huddled in New York tenements. They had ground the haud organ or sold peanuts in America loug enough to accumulate what represented a fortune in their native city. Then they had come back to Genoa tnd settled in their native haunts. But, alas, their native hauuts are now owned by au American syndicate. Rents are high, everything in the new qnarter costs as much as in tbe (Jnited States. Their money is going, and they have gone back to toil, only instead of grind-, ing a street organ tbey now manipulate the motor of a trolley car.

Vandalism has descended upon Genoa as a plague, but it is not fair to charge the account to Americans only, for the Germans have helped, though these are principally German Americans. It itf indeed a German American syndicate which is responsible for the trolley car outrage. And I learn that they intend to carry trolley care into Switzerland. Nothing will remain, then, to make the Alps tbe Coney Island of Europe save to import the sausage vender and the hot tamale man.

The vandal Americana, moreover, in tb* name of business enterprise have grabbed nearly all the ancient palaces of tijue honored Genoese families and coo verted them into "office building*. Steamship companies, haberdashers and patent medicine concerns now aoc tbe former banquet balls of Gem«*£ princes. Even the house next to the oue abevm to travelers as the birthplace of

3 JS Jr"

Ckluusbu8 is now rented to a "land boom'* company on a long lease. So far as I can see there is only one feature of the new quarter which American cities would do well to copy. This is the arcade in the shopping district. The arcade is practically a covered street. A glass dome is built across tbe street from the roofs of tbe buildings on either side.

The glass is ground, so that while it admits ligbt it debars tbe sun aud rain. It is as if Twenty-third street, New York, were roofed over from Broadway to Sixth avenue.

The most interesting and beautiful thing in Genoa is its cemetery on Holy field. Tbrre is not another one in the whole world so beautiiul and but one that approximates it, the Campo Santo at Milan. Imagine a garden surrounded with noble open galleries lined with magnificent white marble monuments and all shut in by great green hills, which stand around it like sentinels, guarding tbe silent and sacred camp of the dead. Imagine all tbis, then put above tbe roses, and the blossoms, aud the fragrant trees, and tbe yellow immortelles, and the green wreaths, aud the glorious marble statuary a blue sky and a bright sun, and you have a faint idea of Genoa's Holy field.

But you cannot imagine the. monuments aud tbe memorial statuary. You must see them to understand them, because they are so utterly unlike any thing we have in our cold, prosaic land In long marble galleries, open to the air and the sun, the monuments at first give the cemetery the appearance of an art exhibition. You imaf?ine you have wandered into a sculpture gallery by mistake, but the wreaths of flowers, with broad silk sashes attached, the swinging lamps and tbe memorial tablets undeceive you. Each monument has, as it were, an arch of the gallery to itself and is placed against the back wall. Tbe figures are rarely allegorical. A man in his habit as he'lived stands life size in wbite marble above his own tomb. A little girl in a short frock, with her lap full of flowers, seems dancing on the column that records her death.

Over another beautiful tomb is a family group life size. The father is dying. He lies on his deathbed, aud the sculptor has realized every detail of drapery. The wife kneels by the bedside, some of her daughters supporting

her. The old mother sits in an easy chair, her eyes raised to heaven, her lips seeming almost to move in prayer. On the other side of the bed tbe eldest son stands up aud supports one of the daughters, who has utterly broken down. It is a marvelous piece of work. It is the "Last Adieu" realized in marble. It is naturalism and it is art. It is realistic and so perfect in detail that you would recognize any of that group of mourners if yon met them in the street.

Over another tomb, where a husband and wife lie buried together, this old couple sit iu two armchairs, holding each other's hand. On another a man Jies dead on his bed, and hisyoungwife reverently raises the sheet and gazes for the last time upon his face. Over another tomb is the statue of a man who lies within. On the steps of the tomb stands his wife, and she holds their little girl in her arms and lifts her up as though to kiss tho dead papa. The door of another vault is represented as half open. The husband lies dead inside The wife knocks at the door and listens for her dear one's voice to call her in.

There are hundreds and hundreds of these beautiful groups in the Campo Santo. What makes them the more extraordinary to the American traveler is that the living and the dead are all habited in modern everyday costume, and no detail is spared to make the groups and tbe single figures triumphs of realism. One remarkable piece of sculpture I have omitted to mention. It is over tbe tomb of a beautiful Italian lady who died a short time ago. Her bed is represented with a perfection of detail. The lace on the pillows is perfect The lady is dead, bnt the angel has come to fetch her. The angel takes the dead lady's hand, and the lady gets cmt of bed to go with the angel to heaven. This is the moment depicted by the sculptor. The lady sits on the edge of the bed, and the angel points upward in the direction tbey are to travel together.

All this is very beautiful, bnt its intense realism may jar en some. It did on me after a time. I felt that something of the sublimity of death was taken away in the process, and I tnrned with a little sigh of relief to some of the humbler graves whidi dotted tbe sonny garden of fragrant roses that lay aa -bt and beautiful under the blue Ital.—j sky. FLOYD E. DURHAM.

If tbe care of the hair were made a part of a lady's ed~"tion. we should not see no many gray s, and Hie use of Hall1* Hair Reaewer would be unnecessary.

SO-TO-BM for Fifty Ceatt.

Omified tobacco habit core, makes weak mo sti Mood pure. SOc*SL All drag*****

Try Allen's Foot-Ease,

A powder to be shaken into the shoes. At this season your feet feel swollen and hot, and get tired easily. If you have smarting feet or tight shoes, try Allen's Foot-Ease. It cools the feet and makes walking easy. Cures and prevents swollen and sweating feet, blisters and callous sposs. Relieves corns and bunions of all pain and gives rest and comfort. Try it to-day. Sold by all druggists and shoe stores for 25c. Trial package FREE. Address, Allen S. Olmsted, Le Roy, N. Y.

Rebecca Wilkinson, of Brownsvalley, Ind.,says: "I have been in a distressed condition for three years from nervousness, weakness of the stomach, dyspepsia and indigestion until my health was goue. I had been doctoring constantly with no relief. I bought one bottle of South American Nervine, which did me more good than any $50 wor^li of doctoring I ever did in my life. I would advise every weakly person to use this valuable and lovely medicine a few bottles of it has cured me completely. I consider it the grandest medicine in the world." Warranted the most wonderful stomach and nerve cure ever known. Sold by all druggists in Terre Haute, Ind.

Try Graln-O! Try GrnluO! Ask your Grocer to-day to show you a package of GRAIN-O, the new food drink that takes the place of coffee. The children may drink it without injury as well as the adult. All who try it, like it. GRAIN-O has that seal brown of Mocha or Java, but, it, is made from pure grains, and the most, delicate stom.ic.h receives it without distress. the price of coffee. 15c. and 25 cts. per package. Sold by all grocers.

Shake Into Your Shoes

Allen's Foot-Ease, a powder for the feet. It cures painful, swollen, smarting feet and instantly takes the sting out of corns and bunions. Its the greatest comfort discovery of the age. Allen's Foot-Ease makes tight-fitting or new shoes feel easy. It, is a certain cure for sweating, callous and hot, tired, aching feet. Try it to-day. Sold by all druggists and shoe stores. By mail for 25c. in stamps. Trial package FREE. Address, Allen S. Olmted, Le Roy, N. Y.

Cure Your Stomach.

You can quickly do this by using South American Nervine. It can cure every case of weak stomach in the world. It always cures, never fails. It knows no failure. It will gladden the heart and put sunshine into hour life. It is a most surprising cure. A weak stomach and broken nerves will drag you down to death. South American Nervine will help you immediately. No failures always cures never disappoints. Lovely to take. Sold by all wholesale and retail druggists in Terre Haute, Ind.

ErerrlHxIy Says So.

Cascarets Candy Cathartic, tbe most wonderful medical discovery of tbe age, pleasant and refreshing to toe taste, act gently and positively on kidneys, liver and bowels, cleansing tbe entire system, dls|el colds, cure headache, fever, habitual constitution and biliousness. Please buy and try a box of C. C. C. to-day, JO, 25, f0 cents. Hold and guaranteed to cure by all druggists.

MONEY

THE HEAT PLAGUE OF AUGUST, 1896. Mrs. .Pjnkham'a Explanation of the Unusual Number of Deaths and" •"1. Prostrations Among1 Women.

The great heat plague of August, 1896, was not without its lesson. One could not fail to notice in the loug lists of the dead throughout this country, that so many of the victims were women in their thirties, and women between forty-five and fifty.

The women who succumbed to the protracted heat were women whose energies were exhausted by sufferings peculiar to their sex women who, taking no thought of themselves, or who, attaching no importance to first symptoms, allowed their1 female system to become run down.

Constipation, capricious appetite, restlessness, forebodings of evil, vertigo, languor, and weakness, especially in the morning, an itching sensation which suddenly attacks one at night, or whenever the blood becomes overheated, are all warning's. Don't wait too long to build up your strength, that is now a positive necessity! Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound has specific cu a tive powers. You cannot do better

Don't Tobacco Spit and Smoke Your IJffe Away. To quit tobacco easily and forever, be mag netic. full of life, nerve and vigor, take No-To-Bac, the won Jer-worker, that makes weak men strong. All druggists, 60c or 11. Cure guaranteed. Booklet and sample free. Address Sterling Itemedy Co., Chicago or New York.

TO LOAN

LOWEST PRICES! BEST TERMS!

The money la ready, waiting for you. If you want to borrow don't lose any time, bat come direct to

Terre Haate Trust Co.,

30 South Sixth 8treet.

DAILEY & CRAIG

503 OHIO STIR.TSST.

Give them a call If you have any kind of Insurance to place. Tbey will write you in as good companies as are represented in tbe city

than to commence a course of this grand medicine. By the neglect of first symptoms you will see by the following letter what terrible suffering came to Mrs. Craig, and how she was cured

I have taken Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound and think it is the best medicine for women in the world. I was so weak and nervous that I thought I could not live from one day to the next. I had prolapsus uteri and leucorrhoea and thought I was going into consumption. 1 would get so faint I thought I would die. I had dragging pains in my back, burning sensation down to my feet, and so many miserable feelings. People said that I looked like a dead 'woman. Doctors tried to cure me, but failed. I had given up when I heard of the Pinkham medicine. I got a bottle. I did not have much faith in it, but thought I would try it, and it made a new woman of

me. I wish I could get every lady in the land to try it, for it did for me what doctors could not do."—MBS. SALLIE CRAIG, Baker's Landing, Pa.

REAL ESTATE, LOANS

Collecting Agency and Accident and Life Insurance. Loans promptly made on city property and farm land at lowest rates.

Thos. A. E. Cantwell,

5294 Ohio Street, Long Mock. Koom 3

COKE

CRUSHED

$3.50

COARSE...

$3.00

Dehvered*

Equal to Anthracite Coal.

Citizens'Fuel & Gas Co.,

507 Ohio Street.

Mr. & Mrs. Henry Katxenbach,

Funeral Directors

And Embalmers, Livery and Hoarding Stable. All calls promptly att ended to. Office open day and night.. Telephone 210. Nos. 18-20 N. Third street.

JPEAN D. RICH, M. D. Office and Residence 210 N. Sixth St. TER11K HAUTE, INI).

Diseases of Eye, Ear, Nose and Throat. Hours—9 to 12 a. m., 1:80 to 4 p. m. Sundays 9 to 10 a. m.

GEO. HAUCK & CO.

Dealer In all kindy of

O A

Telephone83. O il) Main street.

pAAO BALL A SON,

FUNERAL DIRECTORS,

Cor. Third and Cherry streets, Terre Haute Ind., are prepared to execute all orders In their line with neatness and dispatch.

Embalming a Specialty.

JOHN M. VOLKERS, ATTORNEY. Collections and Notarial Work.

rt'ii OHIO STHKKT.

SniART

£S?8SZS1XTH-

Store

Artists' Supplies, Flower Material. Picture Framing a Specialty.

Terre Haate, Ind.

jgAMUEL M. HUSTON,

Lawyer, Notary Public.

Rooms 3 and 4.511% Wabash avenue. Telephone. 4ft7.

N. HICKMAN,

xrisrjDERTJLiCEie 1212 Main Street. All calls will receive the most careful attention. Open day and night.

C. F. WILLIAMS, D. D. S.

DENTAL PARLORS,

Corner Pixtb and Main Streets,

TBBKE HAUTE. IND.

DR. R. w. VAN VALZAH,

Dentist,

Office, No. 5 South Fifth Street.

The

Perfume

sis:

of Violets

TT»C purity of the lily, tbe glow of tbe

rote,

and tbe Saab of Hebe eombioa in POISOKI'S wppdroug Powder