Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 27, Number 52, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 26 June 1897 — Page 3

FASHION'S NEW WHIM

IT INSISTS UPON ELABORATELY TR'MMED SKIRTS.

The Latest Style* of Sleeves—The Baffled WaUt—A Chance For Inventive Oeniu—New Color Fancies—Pale Crimson*,

Cheatnat Brown* and Opalescent Bines.

[Special Correspondence.]

New York, Jane 21.—It cornea upon ns with something like a shock to see bo ma eh trimming upon Xl/gs skirts of dresses aftt*r having seen thein so plain for so long, and so far I have not seen one woman whose eyebrows did not lift in surprise, not unmixed with disapproval, as she saw them for the first time. Bat that does not mean that she will not lay awake nights a week later trying to devise some way to trim her own skirts in the new fancy. Some of the new trimmed skirts are pretty and graceful, hat the rest are not. The

NEW SKIRTS.

flounces are seen rather more often than anything, and they are made wide or narrow, straight or bias, gathered or plaited, just as one likes best. Anew departure is to have the flounces placed only on the side breadths, in straight or slfinting lines, leaving the front and back bmulths free. Some have four accordion plaited flounces in graduated widths covering the whole of the skirt exc«pt the front breadth, which is left plain. Valenciennes is sewed straight along the edges of these plaited flounces and also on the gathered ones, regaining its old time favor as trimming for light materials.

The skirts are now made in the five and seven gored shape and not nearly so full as they were six months ago. Some hnve 20 very narrow ruffles. Others have but four or five. Ono stylo of flounce on figured taffeta was three inches wide, of the dress material and cut bias. This was edged at the top and bottom with a narrow satin ribbon gauffered closely. On this skirt were two of these flounces, one at the bottom and the other above tho knees. Another faucy was to have three knife plaited flounces, each five inches wide and set three inches apart. Each was headed by a band of the new heavy application lace. Tho ruffles were of Japanese crape to match the color of the grosgrain silk of silver gray. There was a skirt of figured india, in large design, of pale purplish flowers on a dull green ground. Around the bottom there was ono row of wide cream colored orieutal lace set on full, but even with the edge. Above that another ruffle of tho same lace was sewed in festoons, headed by a black velvet ribbon lined with gold thread. This was quite an ornato and almost too dressy a design and yet was much admired. It was intended for an afternoon promenade occasion.

Woolen skirts are braided, some of them in arabesques, others in fanciful designs in vines and flowcrB, and still more—aud these arQ the latest—have wide braid sewed ou in curious fancies across the front to the back breadth around the hips and down the fronts. Toward the bottom it is turned in picot loops. The faucy for latticework trimming grows, aud we now find that, too, on the skirts' in various designs. In one instance it was formed of wUte laoe insertion in a plan covering nearly the whole skirt. The lower edges of the lattice wore finished by a full plaited frill of black silk muslin. The material was moire mohair in pale shades of gray, silvery in some lights.

The waists vary little, the most noticeable thing about them beiug the unusual .number of ruffles and the bretellen, for on arly every one the gathered or blonso waist is seen with such changes as may have been considered desirable. The sleeves are curiously arranged at the top. i»oine of them have square caps edged with ruffles, gaufferiugs, fringes and plain bindings. One sleeve had six

They Have

JOT* WAISTS SLEEVES A*I» GARRITCRK. separate caps of the silk,

each a

trifle

narrower than the other at the top. They *11

set

out straight from tbe shoul-

der. The sieeve was puffed

little at

tbe top to hold the caps oat The newest fancy in colors is a pa!e\ crinmm. with lilac tints in it—most unNwtnitiR to everybody—a deep, dark,! rich ml, a satiny ch«^tiiut brown that a!way* ha* the auio gloss and a blue that has opal' •crn* tints in it. hot one m* all tbe color* of the rainbow beside*. Theee are wer, that j* all.

Ouvk Hatana.

BELLS AND KNOCKERS.

Almost Constant and Various f~,s

Uses In London.

[Special Correspondence.]

LONDON, June 12.—"What's the use of keeping a dog and doing your own barking?" is the stock reply of the wealthy Londoner when you ask bim

why he doesn't keep a latchkey instead

of making the footman jump down and rouse tbe neighborhood with his knocks on his master's own door.

Latchkey? Not he. The footman's knock is a London institution. No one else dares make such a racket with knockers and bells. But the footman is fully licensed. The more noise the better footman.

His lordship has been out for a drive, and on his return tbe coach rattles up in front of a fine old mansion, say, in Russell square, but milord does not stir because the door has not yet been opened for him. Down jumps tbe footman and springs up tbe steps to the front door, and in an instant he has a hand on each knocker—on each knocker, if you please, for there are two, as well as two bells. They are double doors, and there is a knocker on each, hardly six inches apart, no such little toy knockers as we see sometimes in America, but ponderous affairs that must weigh 20 pounds, some of them. The bell palls, being of less account, are side tracked, one in each doorpost. Under the right hand bell is a brass sign, "Visitors under the left hand one, another sign, "Servants." And under the knockers, too, there is a sign reading, "Ring also." Woe to the tradesman who should ring the visitors' bell! His business with that household would come to a sudden end.

With a hand on each knocker the footman plays a tattoo on both that may be heard ou the farther side of the square. A singlo ring at one bell would answer every purpose but one—style. Then, having roused the echoes with the knockers, he rings both bells. If there were more knockers and more bells, he would jangle them all. The racket says to all neighbors and all passeraby: "Milord has been out for a drive. Ho bus returned. Behold us. Look at that coach! See how the horses shine and the harness glitters! Hear the silvered chains rattle! Look at my master lolling comfortably back on his cushions! Look at my livery! Look at

Quickly tho door is opened by a man in red coat and knee breeches, perhaps with powdered hair. He knows what that pounding means, and delay might be dangerous. Down springs footman to tho coach door and opens it. Then, and not till then, Milord raises himself from the cushions and steps out, looking bored. A backward wave of the hand is all that is necessary to tell the ooaohman that he is to return to the stables. There's no use bothering to speak to him. Tbe front door closes with a slam, and the coach drives off.

The footman would think it a personal grievance if he could not. announce his master's return in this slambang way. But the knockers and bells have more uses than we dream of in America. Here every man is known by the knock he gives. If you were to give a timid little knock and no ring, the master might send you out a penny or a ha'penny, thinking you a beggar. A visitor must give a series of quick "rat-tat-tats" on one of the knookers and then ring the visitors' bell with confidence Those quick taps on a heavy knocker re quire long practice. No American oan do it at first. Americans generally ring the bell without touching the knockers. "Why should I tire myself with a big knocker," they aBk, "when the bell answers every purpose?"

The mistress, sitting in the drawing room, which is always up one flight, knows by the knock or the ring what sort of person is at the door. "Rattat!" two knocks so close togeth er that they are almost one, aud she knows it is the postman. That is bis peculiar signal, and no one else uses it. The door does not need to be opened, for he merely drops his letters through the slit into the letter box. But the two quia: taps perhaps are followed by a ring. Oh I That means that tbe postman wishes to see some one. A letter with unoertain address perhaps, or some postage dne. Then the maid goes to the door.

Two knocks, not so close together, followed by ring, show that there is a telegraph messenger at tbe door. He must see some one, for his book must be signed. This summons is always answered promptly.

But there is another ring that touches tbe American heart, for even our American beggars have some independence about them. These English basement houses are not at all like what we oall English basement houses in New York. They are only about four steps above the pavement, and the basement is really a cellar, wholly below ground. The dining room is the first floor front, and the kitchen is the front room In tbe basement. Consequently the areas in front are very deep, from 10 to 15 feet

The deep area* have given the milkmen a curious custom. London milk does not go about in wagons, but in bright brans oans made in tbe shape of short cannon, mounted on a handcart. Tbe milkman looks like a pack of artillery coming up the street To avoid the steep steps be tie* a long cord to tbe handle of a pail, lowers the pail into the ares and gives a peculiar call. Oook oomes out and empties tbe paii into hex own pan. Oook is always called cook in London, nerer by her own name.

This milk eventually finds its way, some of ft, into the strong compound called tea in London, which all natives are fond of. But London tea is not up to our American standard, being brownish and thickish and generally miserable. William Drtspaix.

A meeting of 1,000 persons over 70 years of age is annually held in Leices-j ter, England, and of these over 400 die befotv Nwott anniversary.

The Captor of Atlanta.

General Horace Porter, in his "Cam-

7 paicninz With Grant" in The Century,

tells of a mission to Sherman after the capture of Atlanta, on which he was sent by General Grant General Porter says:

Upon reaching Atlanta I went at to General Sherman's headquarMy mind was naturally wrought up a high pitch of curiosity to see the famous soldier of the west, whom I had never met. He had taken up his quarters in a comfortable brick house belonging to Judge Lyons, opposite tbe courthouse square. As I approached I saw the captor of Atlanta on the porch, sitting tilted back in a large armchair, reading a newspaper. His coat was unbuttoned, bis black felt hat slouched over his brow, and on his feekwere a pair of slippers very much do\s at tbe heels. He was in the prime of life and in the perfection of physical health. He was just 44 years of age, and almost at tbe summit of his military fame. With bis large frame, tall, gaunt form, restless hazel eyes, aquiline nose, bronzed face and crisp beard, he looked the picture of "grim visaged war." My coming had been announced to him by telegraph, and he was expecting my arrival at this time. I approached him, introduced myself, and handed him General Grant's letter. He tilted forward in his chair, crumpled the newspaper in his left band while with his right he shook hands cordially, then pushed a chair forward and invited me to sit down. His reception was exceedingly cordial, and his manner exhibited all tbe personal peculiarities which General Grant, in speaking of him, had so often described.

0Dce

tera*to

Antiquity of the Pipe.

Archaeologist J. D. McGnire of the National museum announces his discovery of the fact that the ancient Romans smoked. Of course they knew not tobacco, which is a plant native and peculiar to the new world, but they used several other herbs, and of these four have been definitely identified by Mr. McGuire. This news upsets tbe long accepted theory that the practice of smoking was invented by the American aborigines and was unknown elsewhere in tbe world until after the landing of Columbus.

Unquestionably smoking had already been practiced by the Indians for centuries when Columbus first reached these shores. It was with them to a great extent a form of religious ceremonial. Dr. Daniel G. Brinton, the famous ethuologist, thinks that it had its beginning in the blowing tube of the medicine man. Ignorant savages are disposed to regard the human breath as possessing magical properties, and it may be supposed that burning leaves were introduced into the tube for the purpose of making tho breathing visible. The Indians smoked many kinds of plants, such as sumac, red willow bark and the leaves of tho kinnikinick or bear berry, and tobacco doubtless was a discovery resulting from a selection of the fittest-.

The earliest Indian pipes were simply ^ubes, in one end of which the tobacco or dried leaves were put. Mr. McGuire finds that the pipes used by the anoient Romans were made on the same plan, the bowl being an invention reserved for a comparatively recent day.—Washington Cor. St. Louis Globe-Democrat

A Living Kite.

In France a living kite has been seen in which a man formed a part It was in the course of a series of experiments to determine the effect of wind upon a soaring machine. A gigantic kite had been made, on the face of which a man stood, his feet wide apart and resting upon braces for the purpose, while with his hands be clasped two straps. Tbe kite was 20 feet high and made of cloth. The first attempt to fly it was made on an exposed section of tbe coast, where the wind blew in over a lake. A large parachute was attached to the frame of the kite, to which tbe man was supposed to cling in case of a fall. Everything being ready, tbe kite was braced against tbe wind, the man took his plaoe, and 60 men ran against the wind with tbe rope, many more holding tbe tail. The wind caught tbe enormous surfaoe, and amid loud cbeera from tbe spectators the man rose ten feet from the surface and there remained, held by the men at the tail. Slowly the latter released tbe rope, and gradually the kite rose, proving beyond question that a man could asoend in this fashiou. It was suoh a hazardous and uncertain experiment that a very high flight was not attempted.—New York Sun.

Belnf a Bishop.

An Irishman was toiling, bareheaded, at a windlass under the scorching sun. A Catholic father rode by and said to him: "Put on your bat, Patrick. You'll bake your brains in this sun."

The worker looked up at him and •aid, "Do you think I would be doing this for $1.50 a day if I had any brains?"

Two other Irishmen were delving in a ditch. Said Murphy,' 'Terence, if yen had yes choice in this sinful world, What would yes be?*'

Terence mopped his brow and considered. "Well, for a nice, clane, well paid, asy job I'd be a bishop."—Bard, ware.

Constipation

Causes fuOy balf the sickness to the world. It retains the digested food too long is the bowels and produces bOtoosaess, torpid liver.<p></p>Hood's

tw&>

geMta, bad taste, coated tongue, sick headache, to- Ejp .11 so a I I I eurecoostipatioa and all as

re s. easily and thoroughly. 8e.AOdn#)ts Pu i^red by C. I. Hood It Co~ Lowell. Mass. The only FUb to take with Hood's SarsaperfBa.

An Ear In Reserve.

A young lady arrived at Victoria station, London, from Dover, with a little over 20 minutes to catch a train at Cannon street.

In ordinary circumstances she ought to have done tb« journey very comfortably bad she taken a hansom, but, having some luggage, she selected a "growler," and, as is often the case, the latter was behind a very poor horse.

Having told tbe jebu that she had to reach Cannon Street station in 20 minutes, off tbe vehicle started.

They had barely got 100 yards, however, before she put her head out of the window and requested the driver to whip the horse or otherwise she would miss the train. The cabby did so.

A little farther on she asked him to again administer the whip, as tbe cab was only just moving, and sbe added: "Can't you hit bim on the head or some tender part so as to wake him up a bit?"

Tbe cabby stopped the vehicle and looking at tbe young lady exclaimed in a manner peculiar to cabbies: "Well, miss, I've hit the hanimal oil over his bloomin body except his left ear, and I'm savin that fer Ludgate 'ill."—Pearson's Weekly.

English Built Warships.

Not only has England the greatest navy in the world, but she has supplied almost every other nation with most of its warships.

Tbe Argentine Republic has six armored vessels, of which four were built at Birkenhead, one at Poplar and one in Italy. Of her numerous cruisers and gunboats, all but two were built in England.

Chile has fcmr armored ships, of which three were built here. Greece has got 12 of her 13 cruisers from us. Italy has come here for four of her largest battleships, and eight of Japan's armored warships were made in British yards, as well as six of her cruisers.

Holland has 5 warships built in England Spain has 6 Turkey has 12, and Portugal has 12.

The great powers prefer homemade vessels, but Germany has two large armored ships whioh she bought from English builders about 20 years ago.— London Answers.

BeCter Than Medicine.

"Why, you seem a great deal bettea this morning." "Yes, doctor," whispered the patient, "but don't let it affeot your bill. They threatened to send for my wife's mother."—Detroit Free Press.

Good Practice.

"What a brilliant imagination Cutley must have to jump so suddenly intc fame as a novelist." "Nothing strange about it. He madl out the bills of a big plumbing firm foi years."—Loudon Pun.

An obstinate man does not hold opil ions, but they hold bim.—Pope.

Tossed on the Foaming Billows You may never have been, but if you cross the Atlantic, no matter how smooth the watery expanse, without sea sickness you are—well, a lucky voyager, that Is all. Old tars who have spent their lives on the ocean waves, who were almost born, so to speak, with their "sea legs on." suffer now and then from sea sickness In very tempestuous weather. Sea captains, tourists, commercial travelers and yachtsmen say that there Is no finer safeguard against nausea than Hostetter's Stomach Bitters, and It has been equally reliable as a preventive by Invalids who sometimes suffer as much In those conveyances as ocean travelers do In steamships. Biliousness, constipation, sick headache and disorders of stomrch caused by oppressive climatic Influences or unwholesome or unaccustomed food or water, always yield to the Bitters speedily. This popular medicine also remedies, rheumatic, kidney and nervous disodfters, and the infirmities Incident to Increasing years.

Cure Your Stomach.

You can quickly do this by using South American Nervine. It can cure every case of weak stomach in the world. It always cures, never fails. It knows no failure. It will gladden the heart and put sunshine into hour life. It is a most surprising cure. A weak stomach and broken nerves will drag you down to death. South American Nervine will help you immediately. No failures always cures: never disappoints. Lovely to take. Sold by all wholesale and retail druggists in Terre Haute, Ind.

Try Allen's Foot-Ease,

A powder to be shaken into the shoes, At this season your feet feel swollen and hot, and get tired easily.CIf you have smarting feet or tight shoes, try Allen's Foot-Ease. It cools the feet and makes walking easy. Cures and prevents swollen and sweating feet, blisters and callous sposs. Relieves corns and bunions of all pain and gives rest and comfort. Try it to-day. Sold by all druggists and shoe stores for 26c. Trial package FREE. Address, Allen S. Olmsted, Ie Roy, N. Y.

EdnratflYonr Bowels With Caseareta. Camly Cathartic, cure constipation forever. 10c, 25c. If C. C. C. fait, druggists refund money.

A DOUBLE HOLIDAY!

Fourth ef Jslyt

Half Rate Excursions, Big Four Route.

In accordance with its old time custom, the Big Four Route will sell cheap excursion tickets at One Fare for tbe Round Trip from all stations to points on its line within 200 miles from selling point, good going on July 9d, 4th and 5th, and good returning to and including July 8th, 1807. Call on aoenta Big Four Route for tickets and full information

W7*

E. O. McOORMICK, Pass. Traffic Manager.

To Car* Coaatlpatloa Forever.

Take Casearets Candy Cathartic. 10c or Be. If C. C. C. fail to cure, druggist* retaod tnoaer-

][)R L. H. BARTHOLOMEW, Dentist*

•71 Main St. Terrs Haute, fad.

Tho Perfume of Violets The purity of Lb« lily, the sad tbe fiash of H*b* wondrous Powder

lfp#l^p

TERKE HAUTE SATURDAY EVENING MAIIi, JUNE 26, 1897. 3

*r^

Up! Upt Up-to-date

720-722

of tberoae, ia tana's

•.»

-X.

*»?.

B. G. HEDNUT. President. W1LLARD KIDDER. Vice-President. G. A. CONZMAN. Cashier.

Vigo County National Bank

Capital $150,000. Surplus $30,000.

O E I 2 E A N E

624 Main Street. TERRE HAUTE, IND.

LOOK HERE!

If you are going to build, what is the use of going to see three or four different kinds of contractors? Why not go and see

A, FROMMB,

Greneral Contractor

416 WILLOW STREET,

As he employs the best of mechanics in Brick Work, Plastering, Car pentering, Painting, etc., and will furnish you plans and specifications wanted.

S. I*. PBNNBR,

Builders' Hardware, Furnaces,

and First*class Tin Work,

±200 A I 2sT S IE& ZED IH3 T.

ARTIFICIAL

Stone Walks 1 Plastering

Moudy & Coffin.

Leave orders at 1517 Poplar St., 1841 South Fifth St.. 901 Main St., Terre Haute, Ind

"When. You Order Your

TABLE BEER

Get the very best, and that is the product of the

TERRE HAUTE BREWING CO.

Printing

"BETTER THAN EVER"

The 1897 BEN-HUB BICYCLES embody more new and genuine improvement* In construction than any other bicycles now before the public. Never before have such excellent raises been offered for the money. Our new line, consisting of eight superb models at $80, $75 and $125 for single machines, and $1&0 for tandems, with the various options offered, is such that the most exacting purchaser can be entirely suited.

CENTRAL CYCLE

72 Qanobn Strict.

O'NEIL & SUTPHEN

ova pimi roars* osTALoaua mails pom two s-oairr stamp*.

George Rossell, Agent,

Moore & Langen's

MFG. CO., INDIANAPOLIS, I NO.

Wabash Avenue. TERRE HAUTE, IND

Machine Works

Manufacturers and Dealers in Machinery and Supplies. Repairs a Specialty, Eleventh and Sycamore Sts., Terre Haute, Ind.