Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 27, Number 47, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 22 May 1897 — Page 2

FREAKS OF FASHION.

REVIVAL OF WELL KNOWN STYLES OF LONG AGO.

A Handsome Home Gown—DTCM of Battcrat—Brown Plaid—Popular lreaa Goods. Raw and Bupinc Shades—A Mahogany

Red Mohair Brilllantine Gown.

[Copyright, 1897, by American Press Association.] Very recently there has been a -whisper in the air that we are to have the style# in vogue when Qneen Victoria began her reign. Poke bonnets are certainly in evidence, but few except the prettiest and roundest of faces look well in fbem. Today a street costume was shown that fortunately cannot have a long season of popolarity for the reason that it is triiimed with fur, but it is very old fashioned, and more than one lady looked at it in real admiration. The dress was cut in princess shape and had four rows of beaver fur around the bottom about four inches apart. The dress was of rush green peau de sole of the richest quality. The sleeves were tight to the wrists and bordered with fur. There was a stiff threefold pelerine, each fold being bordered with fur. The long tabs to this hung nearly to the foot of the dress and were bordered with fur and lined with tan colored satin. All this is odd enough and old enough, but to have carried out the full design the modiste would have been obliged to have a flat collar, or at the utmost a narrow band of fur. She "adapted" the high medici collar to the gown by bordering the scallops with fur and twisting along piece of white lace into a sort of cravat and making a looped bow with ends below the waist. The whole costume is so redolent of the early days of the queen's reign that it is no wonder that other women than the courageous wearer eye it askance.

The tudor collars and mercy knows whose cuffs, revers, lappels or pockets and vests are all rivals in a way, and one sees some of every one of them. A blue cloth jacket had the back laid in fancy plaits, whilo the front was in a regular Louis XVI vest of white satin with narrow traceries of silk and gold embroidery. The sleeves were ample at the top and slanted somewhat below the elbow and then flared out again in bell shape. Jnst below the elbow there were threo plaits, and these were held in by five straps with siJk buttons. The revers were narrow and wore strapped like the sleeves. Tho collar was inexpressible, yet very becoming.

Sbmewhut on the same order as far as the revers were shaped was a really

VCW WOOLEN GOWNS.

beautifnl home or reception gown for a small reception or dinner. Tho material of tho gown was a surah weave silk in dull light blue with a brown tinge in it somewhere. On the front breadth was a trimming of velvet, ribbon almost black. The top part was interwoven in squares, and whero the ends were finished they formed little curls. There was a shirred cream colored crepo lisse vest front, slightly overhanging tho belt in blouse style. The bodice was in form of an eton jacket, with white satin revers and plaited collar. This was edged with pretty scalloped passementerie. A double row of the same sewed so as to apparently form round medallions extended tho length of the sleeves. Thoro were puffs at tho back of the upper sleeve, set in such away as to outline the slope of the arm instead of widening the shoulders. A double ruehiug of the lisse went aronud the neck and down tho left side of the vest.

I saw a plaid dress today which wa9 one of the very few elegant gowns of such design. The skirt only was of plaid, but that was sufficient since all the rest was in the same color as the ground of the plaid.

The plaid was butternut brown with large bars of black, each bar having two lines of pale blue. The figure was about eight inches square. There were also a few fugitive green threads of silk showing along the black stripes. There was draped vest of olive green surah with a sash of the same at the left side coming from under the open jacket This jacket was shaped like an eton in the back and like nothing but itself in front. It hung open from the bust line. It was made of brown cloth, almost oovored with braidiug in passementerie, holding the black, blue and green of the plaid. Tho revers were sharp and of moire in the same color. The high tee•ellated collar was brown and braided on the outside. The gigot sleeves were also of cloth with deep braiding. There was a very neat hat to match this gown, the straw being of mixed colors and the trilaming of brown velvet In the back there was a little but close bunch of pjvJo bine forgetnienots under the upturned brim. Brims as a general rule will not bo turned upward. If they have anything about them particularly original, it consists in the varieties of the poke.

Striped serges, poplinette# and woolens of various weaves aw quite popular for separate skirts. They are cut so that 1 tho two edges form points tne very «tyH«h gown bad a skirt of plum and gray stripes, entirely ontrimmed. It

Lined

to a waist erf plum colored ar-

mure without a belt. This waist fastened down the left side under a fanciful draping of ivory lace. It was drawn across the back and front smoothly, but had a few little gathers directly in front and in the center of the back. The sleeves fitted tight and had short puffs at the top. Across the upper part of the chest were six curiously shaped puffs of satin differing very slightly from the color of the silk. Lace at the back of the neck and laoe cuffs finished the gown.

Mahogany, brick dust, terra cotta and ox blood are among the favorite dark reds. Coral pink, peach blow and wild rose are all nretty in the lighter shades. There is still some magenta seen, but not very much. Yet, as I say that, I remember the pile of silks I saw today. Magenta there was in every direction,

VICTORIAN AND OTHER GOWN.

and such a raw and rasping shade! Still I hope that those silks will all be used for linings. A mahogany red mohair brilliantine was one of the prettiest gowns shown for ordinary home wear. The skirt was simple save for six diamond shaped metal buttons placed along the upper part of the front breadth seams. The bodice was a blouse, open at the left. The sleeve caps, the openings in the basque and the yoke were all trimmed by milliners' folds of the mohair. The front opened in a square to show a poppy red plastron and half collar. The rest of the collar was black satin and turreted. Where it opened at the side was a curious arrangement of revers of polka dotted white surah, bordered with folds and slashed to show a red puff. The ends reached 14 inches below the belt. The cuffs were of the surah. HENRIETTE ROUSSEAU.

CAUSE FOR REJOICING.

Mary Kyle Dallas on Duties and Responsibilities.

"Thank heaven," says a great writer, "if every day when you open your eyes in the morning you remember that there is something that you must do whether you wish to do it or not."

According to tbis rule there should be very many thankful people in the world, including all factory hands and all laborers, car conductors and brakemen and the men who "dig for dusky diamonds" in the depths of the coal mines.

The great majority have immense reason for rejoicing, and happy indeed should be the mother whose crying baby has kept her awake all night and who must nevertheless rise to get breakfast and wash dishes and send the children off to school and continue the grind all day long until night falls and the little treasure who has been sleeping all day bawls to be walked with once more.

In a general way it is much the best for people to have duties and responsibilities, but I doubt if it is possible for mortal man or woman not to desire a holiday now and then. To know there is something you must do whether yon like to do it or not may be excellent discipline, but if you dislike the doing of it very much I doubt if you can be as thankful as you ought to be over the fact that yon must do it

Pleasant and useful work, agreeable duties, are certainly to be rejoiced over. To be useless and slothful is bad for the soul, but those who pen these bits of good advice forget that to the majority of men life is all labor and duty, with no prospect of anything better while life lasts.

The elegant folk who thank heaven that there is something to occupy the mind and pass the time are after all the very small minority.

Eno «M

MART KYLE DALLAS.

Mrs. Frederick D. Grant.

Mrs. Frederick Dent Grant, wife of Oolonel Grant, one of the polioe commissioners of New York city, is becoming very popular in New York society. She was aMiss Ida H. Honore of Chica-

MRS. FREDERICK DKXT GRANT.

go and is a sister of Mrs. Potter Palmer of Chicago. She is handsome and has a frank, genial and unaffected manner. Mrs. Grant takes an active interest in a considerable number of prominent oharities of New York.

Whatever work you take up with enthusiasm and keep at with perseverance you will succeed in.

Miss Alice Hughes is considered the best photographer in London. Her price for taking a picture is the highest of any London photographer, yet she can scarcely accommodate those who come to her. I hope she will make a fortune.

I adore all women, but most of all I admire those brave ones who go intb the world and earn comfortable, independent livings for themselves and lay up a good bit of money besides. These are the members of our sex who impress mankiud with women's ability. This is the age when talent is measured by ability to accumulate money. Therefore it is laudable to honorably accumulate all you can.

There is one kind of women who weary the world. They are the ones who, when they have had some little ft eting success in art, or literature, or commercial affairs, or something else, take particular pains to assure the reporter who writes about them that they have no sympathy whatever with these new woman ideas and would not vote for the world. Why, the Lord have mercy on their poor, little, silly souls. If it had not been for new woman ideas and for the painful efforts of those who, "toiling upward in the night," have wrought bravely for woman's emancipation, these puny souled, shallow creatures themselves would this day be in the condition of Indian squaws or harem slaves. Let them not dare to cast their feeble slurs upon the brave and splendid new woman who made their present success possible.

Mrs. Stanton says that 60 years ago, when she and a few other brave women sought to get a law passed at Albany permitting a wife to own the property she inherited and the money she earn ed, the bitterest opposition came from married women themselves. Thoy thought a law giving them their own money would be a reflection on the affection and chivalry of their husbands At least they said so. There have ever been slaves who hugged their chains, and these are the basest of slaves.

It looks bad when a lady who is a prominent officer in a health protective association herself has wretched health or permits her children to be semiinvalids. We have reached that point in civilization where everybody can have reasonably good health if he wants to.

I observe that that modest and sell abnegating body, the Presbyterian Women's Foreign Missionary society, hat been holding another convention. I no tice, too, that the ladies held tbeii meetings in a church and spoke, actual ly spoke, in poblic in a church, too, it spite of St Paul's alleged orders to the contrary. Shades of John Knox, whs* are we coming to? But then, the worn en had a nice male minister preside ore their evening meeting, and tnayle tlia* had a saving grace so far as it went

Mrs. A. E. Axtell of New York car. ride 140 'miles a day on a bicycle anr does not feel very tired after it either.

It is written in the book of destim that the long skirt for ootdcor weai must go ELIZA ABCHAKD OOKXEA.

TERRE HAUTE SATURDAY-EVEN IN MAIL, MAT 22, 1897.

the new Woman,

the Necessity of Promptness In Keeping Engagements.

A woman called to mind the qther day three engagements she had lately made with gentle members of her own •ex, neither of them business women, however. For the first one she waited half an hour, and the visitor did not come at all. For the next one she waited 20 minutes, then went off without her friend, who came in half an hour later. For the third one she waited 15 minutes, and was just on the point of leaving when the belated person arrived. Every woman's time who earns money is worth so much a minute in business hours. Her time is money, often about all the money she has. The woman who does not keep engagements, therefore, robs her as much as if she put her hand in the business woman'spocketbook and abstracted many dollars. The wear and tear on ^he nervous system of waiting for a person who is always behind is something, that cannot be compnted by dollars., It is the kind of thing that turns, one's hair gray before its time. Men have gone so far in their exasperation as to say that women have not the sense of time. This is a mistake, though I do admit that women are apt not to have their sense of time developed. It is because they have never had any business training. The old fashioned way of bringing a well to do girl up was to let her dawdle through her days from the time she left school till she was married without an earthly aim higher than putting her hair in curl papers and reading novels. I know gray haired women this day who will sit idly at the window by the hour and gaze vacantly into the street. It is a waste of time absolutely criminal. The person with the least to do is always the one who is behind time in keeping engagements. No woman will amount to a row of pins who does not educate this dawdling, procrastinating habit out of herself. Mary Olemmer onoe told me that the way she accomplished so much was by giving herself a certain time for doing a thing and then making herself do it. If she wrote a newspaper letter, she put her watch down before her eyes at exactly the time she had set to begin the work and kept straight on putting down her thoughts till the thing was done, always on time. The new woman is always prompt as clockwork in her tasks as in her recreation. If she promises to meet another person, she is there at the minute sharp. When she makes a promise—which she does not do if she can help it—that promise is to her a sacred oath. Nobody ever has to wait for her. She has the habit of being on time.

The Beggars of Italy.

"Bicycling Through the Dolomites," in The Century, is an account of Colonel George E. Waring's European trip. Concerning mendicancy in Italy, Colonel Waring writes: Perhaps there is no better index to the good or bad condition of the working people of a conntry than is afforded by the number of beggars one meets on the roads. The poles set up at the border of Austria, with their spiral stripes of yellow and black, do not mark the line between it and Italy much more clearly than does the advent of the beggar the moment the line is crossed. In Austrian Tyrol there are virtually no beggars. On the Italian side, even well dressed people in the fields will leave their work to beg coppers from the passing tyveler.

One day, in the upper Innthal, a couple of bright looking, rosy faced children ran after us, asking for kreutzers. "Mawknix" upbraided them for such a shameful act, and they slunk away. He spoke of tbis with much indignation to a neighbor, who said their whole family were away in the fields at work, or they would not ha\e dared to beg, and that he would see that they were well sptlnked when their mother came home at night. Nuns and a few favored cripples sometimes ask alms at the doors of the churches in the larger towns, and the poor box is always found inside, but the peasantry and the churches take care of their own poor, so that the vice of beggary is unknown among them.

In Italy, on tbe other hand, it is obvious that special conditions of deformity are artificially produced. Both legs broken and badly reset in childhood constitute a good source of income for life, and anything that appeals to sympathy is made tbe occasion for cultivating a very mistaken and mischievous charity.

Suicide.

An English statistician says there is not much of a psychological mystery in the fqpt that so many more people commit suicide in summer than in winter, and he does not think that the difference is in any large measure due to the direct effect of cold upon human minds and bodies. It must be borne in memory, he says, that drowning is the commonest method of self destruction and resort to it is difficult or impossible when rivers and ponds are covered with ice. This accounts for a part of the decrease. Another part is explained by the oircumstance that in cold weather people live more in association, and there is thus less opportunity for com mitting suicide. He does not think, however, that it is possible to explain the matter wholly without reference to the depressing effects of cold on the nervous system and the exciting effects of heat. It requires some energy and determination to commit suicide, and this is lacking in a person suffering from extreme cold. All these considerations working together, the result is that many people endure through the winter a life whioh they have ceased to value and throw it away when the season comes in which the material difficulties in the way of continued existence are at their minimum.

Try Graln-Ot Try Grain-O! Ask your Grocer to-day to show you a package of GRAIN-O, the new food drink that takes the place of coffee. The children may drink it without injury as well as the adult. All who try it, like it. GRAIN-0 has that seal brown of Mocha or Java, but it is made from pure grains, and the most delicate stomach receives it without distress. the price of coffee. 15c. and 25 cts. per package. Sold by all grocori.

She Never Kissed.

"I reckon if Iwustoketch my daughter klssin of a man I'd jnst natchelly cut him into mince meat ground fine," said the old man from the swamps of the Bracken hills. "Then yonr daughter won't kiss the boys?" ventured a Dover youth with spectacles. "Well, I reokon not, young man," and the old man gave him a look that dazzled his specs. "But—ah, you know, some girls— who are engaged—you know sometimes kiss their their boys —you know—and—it's all right and proper— and"—

Tbe old man looked at him real hard, and, after watching the youth wilt like a tobacco leaf in an August sun, thundered out, "Well, my daughter never kissed a livin man, not even her pap— ner a poodle dog, neracat, nernothin." "But there's no harm—and why—er —why er?" stammered the brave yonth. "Well, I reckon the most principalist reson why my daughter never kissed nothin is that I never had any daughter."

And the thoughtful silence of the young man was so dense that you could bear tbe price of farm lands drop quietly, drop by drop, while the farm products banging in tbe tobacco shed tier by tier.—Cincinnati Enquirer.

The Political Handkerchief.

There has just been sold by auction in France the complete set of an old newspaper which was probably unique. It was called tbe Mouchoir de Pocbe Politique (Political Pocket Handkerchief) and was published in 1831.

Tbe proprietors hit upon tbe idea of printing it on cheap cotton stuff for tbe purpose of evading the high paper duty. Tbe complete collection consisted of 144 numbers—just a gross of pocket handkerchiefs—for it is evident from tbe title that tbe publishers believed tbe newspaper would serve two purposes.

Tbe price was 8 pence-—8 shilling* per dozen—not a high price to pay for news, articles, theatrical criticisms and a pocket handkerchief combined.

Unfortunately the cotton required ton much ink, and the scheme bad to be abandoned.—London Globa

By aid of rolcanio action 59 new islands have appeared daring the present century, and 19 have disappeared—have been submerged.

Food.

There is no reason in the world why men, whether average men or men of genius, should despise the cooking of their food. They never show, or are required to Bhow, tbe same contempt toward any other art, and on no other is their mental calm more completely dependent An ill fitting coat is a worry, but not such a worry as dinners perpetually ill dressed. To many men, and especially to men whose work is sedentary or whose brains are fully taxed, food which is at once light and nourishing is an absolute necessity if they are to exert their highest powers, and food of that kind is obtainable only by care in selecting meats and good cooking when they are selected. A man ^should not think too much of his dinS^r or devote too much time to preparation for it or enjoy it too visibly when it has arrived, for all tbose are animal peculiarities. food, eiulwben a little more thought or care ness or criticism would procure it in a state fit to be eaten, is only what Scotchmen used to describe as "a wasting of the maircies."—London Spectator.

Mrs. Ida Gibson.

Mrs. Ida Gibson is the first Chioago woman appointed to tbe Paris exhibition. She has received an official communication from tbe French minister of education notifying her of her appointment Mrs. Gibson will prepare a resume of the work of early French explorers in America to adorn a oabinet in the educational department at the exposition. She represented Chicago at the Atlanta exposition.

HIGHEST CASH PRICE PAID FOR

Also Tallow, Bones, Grease

OF ALL KINDS,

At my Factory on the Island, Southwest of the City.

Harrison Smith,

Office. 13 S. Second St., TERRE HAUTE, IND. Dead Animals removed free within ten miles of the city. Telephone 73.

CATARRH

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It opens and clean-

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ART

Gagg's

26 SOUTH SIXTH. East Side.

Store

Artists' Supplies, Flower Material. Picture Framing a Specialty.

Terre Haute, Ind,

JpBANK D. RICH, M. D.

Office and Residence 216 N. Sixth St.

TERRE HAUTE, IND.

Diseases of Eye, Ear, Nose and Throat. Hours—9 to 12 a. m., 1:30 to 4 p. m. Sundays 0 to 10 a. m.

O'NEIL & SUTPHEN

ZET O IR. JE31 Q- 1ST EXCHANGE.

624 Main Street. TERRE HAUTE, IND.

Machine Works

Manufacturers and Dealers in Machinery and Supplies. Repairs a Specialty.

Eleventh and Sycamore Sts., Terre Haute, Ind.

LOOK HERE!

If yon are going to build, what is the use of going to see three or four different kinds of contractors? Why not go and see

A. FROMMB,

Greneral Contractor

416 WILLOW 8TEBET,

As he employs the best of mechanics in Brick Work, Plastering, Car pentering, Painting, etc., and will furnish you plans and specifications wanted.

Scrofula

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POUND TRIP TICKETS AT LOW RATES

Will be on sale from nil points to Nashville on every day between May and Oct. 31, 1897. For full information write to

J. H. MILLIKEN, Dist. Pass. Agt., LoillSTilll, IT. C. P. ATMORE, Gen'l Pass, Ant., LsnisTllIe, Ky.

gAMUEL M. HUSTON, Lawyer, Notary Public.

Rooms 3 and 4.517H Wabash avenue. Telephone. 457.

JpELSENTHAL, A. B. Justice of the Peace and Attorney at- Law.

26 South Third Street, Tcrre Haute, Ind.

B. G. HUDNUT. President. WILLARD KIDDER, Vice-President. G. A. OONZMAN. Cashier.

Vigo County National Bank

To tho Young Face

Capital $150,000. Surplus $30,000.

Possom'B COMPLBXIOW POWDER give* freaher charms to the old, renewed youth. Try ifc.