Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 27, Number 46, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 15 May 1897 — Page 6
6
THE SUMMER STYLES.
IMPORTANCE OF KNOWING HOW TO PUT MATERIALS TOGETHER.
Not Good*, bat Their Development, Thtt Creates Real Value—Pretty Dremi For Tonne Girl* SUk Warp Barege* and
Japanese Crape.
[Special
Correspondence.]
NEW YORK, May 10.—I was at the Professional Woman's league and beard one lady make a remark to another. Both were behind me. A lady bad risen to sing or recite, when the woman behind me said: "Ob, what an ugly woman. She should not be allowed among others, for fear they might catch it" went outside so I con
Id langh to myself
and not interfere with the programme The first thing I knew I had drifted into a grand and swell establishment where they take pretty but inexpensive
XEW OUTING APPAREL.
goods and make them tip with much style, and then charge $1,000 or perhaps a little less for them. This place is noted for its style. I think there is usually rnoro style than anything else but price. Still, it seems to me that the amateur may be able to follow the designs and develop quite as stylish frocks for herself. The materials are not so expensive, but the way they are put together makes them elegant.
A boating gown really ought to be of such material and color as will bear much hard usage, but singularly enqpgh, the average young lady prefers something that can be ruined in ten minutes. A model boating drees was of white serge, the skirt bordered with one wide and one narrow row of dark bluo soutache. The waist was an odd jumble of striped flannel in blue and white, as an uudervest in jersey style. Over this was a waist of the serge, with the shoulders cut away to allow a bertha shaped sailor collar. This was of dark bluo serge, with white braid. At the bottom of tho waist the blue serge WHS arranged to represent a figaro. Littlo ruffles of the serge were very much out of place at tho shoulders, while the bluo cuffs trimmed with white braid looked neat and pretty at the wrists. I think if tho color was reversed—that is, tho dress of tho dark blue and the trimming white—it would be more profitable. A sailor hat now is of rough straw as often as of smooth chip or pressed leghorn. A stiff little bunch of loops or quills gives it a naughty if not nautical air.
Tho prices asked for these dresses would stagger any one who knows anything about th» prices of the goods. Another very stylish but equally perishable suit for bicycling was offered. There wero closo knickerbockers reaching the knees and buttoning snugly. The skirt reached to tho ankles and was closed in front, but divided in tho back. It was of pearl gray Venetian cloth. The basquo was very English, and therefore to be desired. All tho seams curved to fit tho figure, and over each seam was a wide black and gold soutache, ending at the bottom in a curved trimming. Thero were 110 darts to this jacket, all the fitting being done by the seams. There wan shirt front of most astonishing plaid, with a very large double bowed tie to match and a white linen collar. The neat little sailor straw was slightly (luted all around the brim and had a double bow and a band of the
Nltw WAISTS FOR GIKL8.
same plaid silk as that in the waist. With tills the wearer may choose between gaiters and thick, dark ribbed stockings.
Silk warp bareges will be largely employed for dainty afternoon dresses for young girls, and the pretty silk and linen tissue seems especially designed for them. For evening and for graduation gowns the exquisite Japanese crapes are much liked. These have a wrought figure on the surface, but more often they are quite plain, save for the delicate suggestion of a crinkle. It takes lace and a very little ribbon to trim these. Tboy hang beautifully.
O urns HARFKH.
Cambmaklaf.
Tort.nw shell combs are generally cut by hand. Bono combs are machine made. The teeth of fine combs are cut by very delicate saws. Metal comb* are nearly always made by machinery.
POLITICS AS A BUSINESS.
Vlewi of New York's Famous State Staa tor, Timothy (Dry Dollar) Sullivan. [Special Correspondence.]
NEW YORK, May 10.—Political leadership is not the bed of roses the average citizen believes it to be. Neither does it—nor politics generally for that matter—yield the financial returns people think. The same amount of energy, ingenuity and perseverance applied to any other field of effort, eommeroe, law, art or meoicine as is employed in political leadership, or even subleadership, would make almost any man, unless he were a "Puddin'head Wilson," happy, healthy, prosperous, free of all care and on good terms with himself and the rest of mankind. That beatific condition is not the lot of your politician, I don't care how high up or how fortunate he may appear to be. Almost invariably thwarted ambition—for every man who goes into politics is ambitious—eats into his soul, and every frijBnd whom be cannot place in offioe, no matter how hard he may try, becomes either an open or a secret enemy. It is only necessary to delve into the past to the extent of pointing out how Webster and Greeley, disappointed in their ambitioc to reach the presidency, went broken to heart and in purse to the grave, and \*w Conkling and Cameron were shorn of power in the great states of New York and Pennsylvania by men they kept from the sweets of office and then get down to the trials and tribulations of present day politics. "I sometimes wish I were dead." Thomas C. Piatt once told that to the late J'" J. O'Brien, Chester A. Arthur's lieutenant in New York city. Senator Piatt and O'Brien had been discussing the question of patronage, and the former was at his wits' ends how to please the "boys" and yet satisfy, or at least pacify, the turbulent aristocrats of the Union League club, who supply the sinews of war" in election times. Senator Piatt could not solve the problem, hence bis irascible remark. He had been ailing, too (it was right after Harrison's election in 1888), and suffered fromdyspepeia and insomnia. Everybody thinks Senator Piatt is a stoic, impervious to all attacks, so I quote you that expression to show that he is human.
Mr. Piatt is a business man of enormous ability, and out of business he made the little money, say, $200,000, he has. He never made a dollar out of politics. The game is his reoreation.
HON. TIMOTHY SULLIVAN.
He meant to quit it away back in the eighties, but when he and Hosooe Conkling were forced out of the senate and out of power by James Q. Blaine in June, 1881, he resolved to stay in, play his hand through and get even with State Senator William H. Robertson, Speaker James W. Husted and others who downed him. He did too.
The late John Kelly, the great leader of Tammany Hall before Richard CBOker, broke down after the election of Cleveland in 1884. He had labored so faithfully for Cleveland's success that his health gave way under the Btrain, but almost immediately after election he was confidentially informed by one close to the new administration that Tammany could not hope for anything from Cleveland. That broke his heart, and he died. Kelly was as honest as the day was long and never turned a penny out of politics. Intrenched as he was in power for so long a time, he could have made $10,000,000 in secret ways, were he HO disposed, but he died leaving an estate of about $300,000, every dollar of which was made out of business ventures.
Richard Croker, leader of Tammany Hall after John Kelly, almost broke down in health immediately after the labors of the campaign of 1892. He suffered from indigestion and insomnia. He wisely, however, gave up all work and took a trip abroad, where he would be safe from political importunities. Later on, by the doctor's advice, to the deep grief of the organization, he resigned the leadership. He was compelled to choose between health and power, and he took the former. Mr. Croker is credited with having a lot of money, bat I will gamble on it he never made it out of politics.
There area few men, very few men, who know when to quit politics gracefully and in time. Rather they are men who take up politics as a means to an end and do not plunge into its follies— the struggle for mastery, the placing of patronage and the like. Bourke Cockran, ex-Governor George T. Hoadly of Ohio and ex-Attorney General Russell are examples of this class, but they are lawyers, and all politicians are not lawyers.
Therefore I say that a man is happier in any other vocation than that of politics. But, then, politics is a passion, like gambling, which it is hard to drop. I wish I could T. D. SULLIVAN.
Is Tour Aura Tallow?
I "The real aura," Mrs. Besant explains, "is a color effect resultant from the vibration of waves of psychic ether emanating from the soul of the individuaL If yon find your aura turning yeilow, it is a sign that you are bilious.— 1 Chicago News.
Phases of Life In a Famous City of the Netherlands. [Special Correspondence.]
ANTWERP. May 4.—At the Cafe Flora, the Delmonico of Antwerp, I sat down at a table, in the middle of the street I might have stuck out my foot and had it crushed by a passing market cart And yet Place de la Mer is very wide. The cathedral opposite, spire and all, could lie there outstretched like a fallen tree without seriously blocking traffic.
On the other side of the street were all sorts of shops, wide open, as on week days. This side of the place, all the way from the big railroad terminus to the market place, people were sitting around little iron tables like ours. Forth from the portals of that long series of cafes tho human mass spread across the sidewalks and out upon the Belgian pavement Whole families were there, and sweethearts, all chattering French, laughing and drinking. Beer, wine, cafe noir and sugared water were the favorite drinks. Glasseo clicked gleefully and waiters with long aprons chased each other like white caps on a merry sea. And like unto this was Sunday in all Antwerp.
Fresh from New York, I sat there like a greenhorn. Drinking on Sunday, and brazenly—in the open streets! Amid this license, this Sunday holiday making, a citizen of Gotham felt like child just out of school.
The Place de la Mer was gay wifli Belgium's national colors yellow, black and red. The pedestrians and vehicles filled the place with a sort of happy hubbub market carts drawn by dogs or donkeys peasants with grotesque bonnets soldiers in red coats, policemen with swords, men and boys riding bicycles with Btockingless legs, flower girls, messenger boys, a pest of beggars and a sprinkling of monks with sandals over bare feet
Suddenly there was a roar of laughter mingled with hissing. A monk had lost a sandal—slipped it off while he was running to catch a train car. Somr one had thrown the sandal over among the tables. Instantly it had been rent into pieces and the sole hurled back at the monk. But on toward the vanishing car ran he—and the faster ran the monk the harder the tram driver whipped his horse. Just as the car swung round into a side street some one tripped up the baffled monk, and he fell sprawling. "The people hate the clergy," explained the waiter. 'They have been grinding us underfoot long enough."
Then several carriages drew up where we sat, almost grazing our tables. "A bride," I said to the waiter. "And a ruined wedding gown," I added, as, led by the groom, with her train dragging yards behind her over the beer wet pavement, the bride swept by us and wound her way between the tables and batteries of staring eyes to the cafe. The wedding party followed— all the men in full evening dress, though the cathedral bells near by were ringing noon. "Strange," I exclaimed, shaking my head sadly. 'After a wedding a funeral."
Open landaus were passing in slow procession. Each was overloaded with silent, solemn passengers, who smiled not, but were serious. "Where is the hearse, waiter?" I asked. "Cook's tourists, monsieur," he replied.
I laughed. "No, not the carriages," I said, looking sad again. "I meant those men on foot carrying that bier."
As the pallbearers approached, up rose the men from each table down the edge of that multitude and stood with bared heads till the funeral party had passed. Behind the bier walked a very young girl, a heavy black crape veil hanging from her bonnet^o her feet— the widow.
Later I crossed the Place to one of the many bicycle shops. "Tli«re are 50,000 bicycles in Antwerp, "said tne obliging man in the doorway, "and many ride American wheels. In the city and all through Belgium indeeu there are shops where wheels are repaired, sold or rented. Belgium is a cyclists' paradise, it is so level, and our roads are as good as those in France." GILSON WILLETS.
Horses Fed on Beefsteaks.
"Of all fads that fashionable people indulge in over their pets, I think the strangest idea is that of giving their horses meat as a variation to their ordinary diet," said a veterinary surgeon. "Beef only is used. It is baked until quite dry, then minced very fine and given mixed with oats or meal. The animals, so far from refusing, seem to relish the mixture, and i#i» thought to improve their condition and courage, but if continued too long they become vicious and their coats deteriorate. "A well known titled lady expends a good sized sum altogether in meat for her numerous carriage horses and hacks. She has one mare that will greedily eat a beefsteak unmixed with meal if minced small, and it has one per week. I know a retired army oolonel, too, a famous hunting man, who frequently gives his hunters beef tea and other meat extracts in their bran mash. Possibly it's not entirely mere fad, for there is one London brewery whose horses are similarly treated, and a famous race horse that won some important events last season was given a partial diet of meat at intervals."—London Answers.
Her Fipti Issioed Fingers.
Nettie—He's such a deep man. That is why he is so successful in business. Nobody can fathom his thoughts.
Laura—Pshaw! I have most of his thoughts at my finger tips. Nettie—Yon don't say?
Laura—I'm his typewriter.—Pittsburg News.
Great Baclret.
Grimly—What makes it so infernally noisy at this boarding boose every night? Mrs. Grimly—The women here have a whist club.—Detroit Free Press.
TERRE HAUTE SATURDAY EVENING MAIL, MAY 15, 1897.
SUNDAY IN ANTWERP.
How Grant Saved Two Nations From War.
Hon. John Russell Young, a former United States minister to China, regards General Grant's part in arranging a treaty of peace between China and Japan as one of the shining achievements of his career. Writing of "When Grant Went Round the World" in The Ladies' Home Journal, Mr Young says Prince Kung, then a sort of regent for China, in his conversations at Peking with General Grant talked with earnestness upon the relations between China and Japan. This led to a message from the prince to the mikado, an extraordinary incident little known in the histories, and the whole business in time to be so managed by the general that war between the two nations "was postponed. "At Nikko, Japan, General Grant met the Japanese ministers, who came by the mikado's command, to discuss with him the message he had brought from Prince Kung and Li Hung Chang. Count Ito, secretary of the interior Count Saigo, the minister of war Count Inouye, foreign minister, and Mr. Yoshida, the Japanese envoy to Washington, composed the embassy. They sat in a little temple (the afternoon sultry, a thunder storm rattling among the hills) and discussed the issues. In the end was a letter addressed to Prince Kung and the Japanese prime minister, containing suggestions which were accepted by both governments. It was a basis of peace not to be broken for many years. So it will be seen that there were useful days, as well as days of pageantry, in Japan. General Grant in time became not alone the friend but the companion of the mikado and his counselors.''
Wouldn't Be Stood Off.
There was a bold, bad man making things hot in a Texas town a few days ago. He wore long hair, a deerskin hunting suit, a big sombrero, and he was waving a small fieldpiece in his hand and yelling for somebody to wade in and get pulverized.
He had his back against the courthouse, and the city marshal and the police argued with him from the middle of the street and dodged every time he swung his howitzer in their direction. Lots of citizens had turned out to witness the performance, and it looked for awhile as if the bad man had the whole town against the ropes.
Presently a little, weak kneed drummer from Connecticut, who was among the crowd, adjusted his spectacles for a closer look at the desperado, and then before anybody could stop him he gave a yell and started for the bad man at a 2:40 gait
The bad man saw him coming and tried to climb over the courthouse, but the little drummer nabbed him and said something to him. The bad man ran his hand into his pocket and guve up something. Then the marshal and the police closed in, and the desperado went off with them as gentle as a lamb.
When the little drummer was questioned, he said: "Afraid? Not much. That fellow owed me $9. He was raised in the same town in Connecticut that I was, and I loaned it to him when he started for Texas 13 years ago. I generally collect what's owing me. Say, what were the cops afraid of him for?''—Detroit Free Press.
Cremation In England.
The report of the council of the Cremation Society of England for 1896 shows that 187 cremations were carried out at Woking during the year as compared with 150 in 1895. The decrease is not important as the figures for 1896 still show a material advance on any previous year, 1895 excepted. The following table of the cremations at Woking from the commencement of operations will show the growing popularity of the disposal of bodies by incineration: 1889 1800 1891 1892 1898 1804 1896 1896 40 54 99 104 101 126 1C0 187
It has to be remembered that three crematories are now open in England and Scotland besides that belonging to the society at St John's, near Woking —namely, at Manchester, where 52 cremations took place during 1896 at Glusgow, where there were 11 cremations, and at Liverpool, where 2 cremations have been performed.—Westminster Gazette.
A Hopeless Case.
Carlyle wa» terribly bored by the persistent optimism of his friend Emerson. "I thought,'* he said, "that I would
trv
to cure him, so I took him to some of the lowest parts of London and showed him all that was going on there. This done, I turned to him, saying, 'And noo, man, d'ye believe in the deevil noo?' 'Ob, no!' he replied. 'All these people seem to me only parts of the great machine, and on the whole I think they are doing their work very satisfactorily.' Then," continued the sage, "I took him doun to the hoose o' commons, where they put us under the gallery. There I showed him 'ae cbiel getting up after anither and leeing and leeing.' Then I turned to him and said, 'And noo, man, d'ye believe in the deevil noo?' He made me, however, just the same answer as before, and I then gave him up in despair."
Users of Paper.
England uses more of the 7,900,000, 000 quires of paper produced annually by the 4,000 mills of the world than any other country, the United States coming next, followed in the order named by Germany, France, Austria, Italy Mexico, Russia and Spain. Of the above amount 600,000,000 quires are used for newspapers, of which the United States is the largest consumer.
A Point to Remember.
If you wish to purify your blood you should take a medicine which cures blood lanim. The record of cures by Hood's Sarsaparilla proves that this is the best medicine for the blood ever produced. Hood's Sarsaparilla cores the most stubborn cases and it is the medicine for you to take if your blood is impure.
Hood's Pills are ihe best after-dinner pill assist digestion, core headache. 26 cento.
A Typical New England.
Indian Ridge, says Alvan F. Sanborn, speaking of a typical New England oommunity in The Atlantic, has all the defects of all its qualities, and possibly some others besides. It is narrowly partisan in its politic?
gesiping
and med
dling in its temper toward matters of purely private concern religion, here as elsewhere, in spite of a general wholesomeness, is not entirely free from hypocrisy, morality from inhumanity and self complacency, integrity from cruel hardness, nor thrift and foresight from parsimoniousness and worry. It is very little alive to the finer issues of oountry living. Most of them are not so much as suspected by it. For all the mutual helpfulness and abounding sense Of humor, the life lacks flexibility, mellowness, warmth, emotion and emotional expression. It is indisputably triste.
Nevertheless Indian Ridge exemplifies the best tendencies of the New England country. These tendencies, owing to its comparative isolation, have been manifested in unique and homely ways in some instances, but the tendencies are none the less sound and healthy on that account Tbey are present to a considerable if not an equal degree, not in all, not in the majority, perhaps, but in many of the rural communities in every one of the New England states. If all instead of a small part of these communities were even thus liberafty endowed, there could be no plaint over the decadence of rural New England, for they have in them the germs of permanent progresa Rather tbey are themselves the very essence of corporate life.
All the Same.
At one of our large north country ohurcbes reoently a fashionably dressed lady happened to go into one of the private pews.
The verger, who is known to be a very stern old chap, immediately bustled up to her and said: "I'm afraid, miss, you'll ha'e to cum out o' that This is a paid pew." "Sir," uaid the young lady, turning sharply round, "do you know who I am? I'm one of the Fifes." "I dinna care," said the old man, "if you are the big drum, you'll ha'e to cum out"—Edinburgh Scotsman.
Polite Lunatic.
A St. Louis jury which acquitted a man charged with murder on the regulation ground of insanity were somewhat surprised when he rose to his feet and said, "Gentlemen of the jury, I want to thank you for your verdict"— Philadelphia Ledger.
It appears from the testimony of Gervas, the monk of Canterbury, who flourished about the year 1200, that organs were introduced more than 100 years before this time.
Up! Up! Up-t-date
it
Printing:
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Cheerfulness In a Medicine.
Surprising recoveries occasionally happen which can be ascribed to no other cause than a cheerful state of mind and the healthful nervous influence which it diffuses through the frame. A singular but instructive instance fell under the observation of Sir Humphry Davy, when, early in life, he was assisting Dr. Beddoes in his experiments on the inhalation of nitrous oxide. Dr. Beddoes having inferred that the oxide must be a specific for palsy, a patient was selected for trial and placed under the care of Davy. Before administering the gas Davy inserted a small thermometer under the tongue of the patient to ascertain the temperature.
The paralytic man, wholly ignorant of the process to which he was to submit, but deeply impressed by Dr. Beddoes with the certainty of its success, no sooner felt the thermometer between his teeth than he concluded the talisman was in operation, and, in a burst of enthusiasm, declared that he already experienced the effects of its benign influence throughout his whole body. The opportunity was too tempting to be lost Davy did nothing more, but desired his patient to return on the following day. The same ceremony was repeated, and the results followed, and at the end of a fortnight he was dismissed cured, no remedy of any kind except the thermometer having been used.—New York Ledger.
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