Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 27, Number 45, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 8 May 1897 — Page 2

NEAV SHIRT WAISTS.

MATERIALS, COLORS AND HOW THEY ARE MADE.

Summer Dreu Good* Tack* and Bias Folds In Skirts—Bathing Salts Are Oat. New Fancy Silks—Sew Ideas In Wraps.

The Empire Coat.

[Copyright, 1897, by the Author.] Shirt waists almost obscure the view of eveiytbing else, so many there are and so diversified their colors and materials. There are waists of simple calico, of percale, madras and Anderson's ginghams, velutina and silks of a dozen different qualities, and besides all of those are the lawns and organdies. Some of them are made with yokes more or less fanciful across the backs, while the fronts are gathered at the top and bottom for sole ornament. Some have a regularly shaped yoke like those on men's shirts, others the old fashioned garibaldi strap, but all have some kind of a yoke across the shoulders in the back. In one waist I noticed that there was quite a deep yoke in front, and this was laid in a series of horizontal tucks. Another had four clusters of narrow tucks, five in each cluster^arranged in perpendicular lines. The fullness they furnished flared out at a little above the bust line and was gathered in at the belt. One was made of tan colored surah, the front laid in three norfolk plaits. The back was gathered to a pointed yoke. The sleeves were, like all those in shirt waists, bishop shape, and there was a high linen turndown collar, while the cuffs were of the surah. While the sleeves are all bishop shape, half of them have the bottom part of the sleeve laid in folds and stitched so. That gives a pretty slenderness.

All of them have cuffs, most of them straight and buttoning, while the others have flaring cuffs of the same material. They all have white linen collars, some with the points slightly turned, but the majority being the high turndown shape. Leather belts one inch wide, with plain metal tongue buckles, finish them at the waist. Small black ties are the most fashionable, but many affect colored ones. That is simply a matter

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of taste. Tin- peculiar new Scotch gingham in ii!tnisliing colors known as t)u Anderson gingham is in high favor for these waists. Let nie see if I can describe one design, There was one emerald pecu stripe half an inch wide, shading into pea green and from that to yellow on hoth sides. The ground was white. Across the green stripes were stripes of red, shading into pink, of the sumo width as the green ones. Across the whole were line lines of black, making a large plaid above the other, the Mack lines crossing in the center of the whitu blocks. It was brilliant and yet toned by th" black and white to something like beauty.

The almost cniversa 1 use of the shirt waist calls for skirts made with a view to wear with the waist and entirely separated from it, that it enn borrow ho beauty or grace from the contact. Therefor© we find homespun stuffs in plaids of immense size and wide stripes to wear with plain waists. The plaid waists look better when worn with black or dark plain goods. The skirt to be worn with the shirt waist should always be of quite thick material. The double faced veuetian suiting is pretty. It is closely woven and yet quite light There are always two tones in it Dark myrtle greeu with red, brown with red or yellow, blue and green and deep purple and gre°n are some of the blend ings.

The newest things shown for summer dresseR are the orgaudie velours. This is organdie with stripes or plaids of velours weave. Silk warp bareges show dainty new designs in flowers of the most perfect appearance. Some of these lovely goods show satin stripes of the same color as the ground, and between thee© stripes are dainty flowers scattered profusely. Gauxes are made in plaid patterns, and the wool gauiee are like lace, with sometimes a fleck of tinsel to give them brightness. The wool gauzee are shown iu every color. One wool fabric is called riblmu grenadine. There are large check# all in solid color, and the large plaid is of very gauzy and transparent stuff. This is shown in dull reds and in all the solid colors of the season and also black. Much of the beauty ol th«w depends upon the lining. The double moire grenadines are very popular. Another kind of grenadine has a stiftish silk gatuee, with stripes of thick silken weave, puckered like some of the old ttyle ribbon gauxe* or seersucker ginghams. These make light and pretty dresses. Nun's veiling iu light colon is atuoug ihn prettiest of the materials of

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this season. This is made with a deep hem, hemstitched with coarse silken threads. This is intended for the finish at the bottom.

Tucks are to be made on many light gowns. They always were favorites, tint were impossible on gored skirts. Some enterprising genius has invented bias folds stitched firmly on the upper side, and these are applied to skirts where tucks could not be made. They look like tucks, and that is all right

I had not realized that summer was so near until today. I came to about 1,000,000, more or less, of new bathing suits. These were made of black or dark blue silk, alpaca, mohair, serge, flannel or brilliantine and silk warp henrietta. The principal difference in style or shape appeared to be those with ruffles or without. The old sailor collar in white serge over blue or red was there again.

The skirts were cut with a decided ripple effect and scarcely reached the knees. The drawers and waist were invariably sewed together and the skirt made to fasten to it Some were cut high in the neck, others pompadour shape. Some drawers had stout elastics which drew the stuff together just below the knees, leaving the bottom to form a ruffle. The others had the drawers sewed to a band that buttoned around the leg. All the waists were gathered at the belt The sleeves are all short and puffed. The trimming consisted of bands of white serge, white braid, red or black braid, straight or in the new curved effects. One or two had double pointed swiss belts, braided in metallic soutache, in a curled design, and the yokes were ruffled all around and braided besides. Even the drawers had ruffles outlined with the braid. The material was blue silk. The most refined taste would suggest quieter ideas, for a lady is quite conspicuous enough in a bathing suit of the most modest design.

The newest silks are very light and soft and very many of them are changeable green and crimson is a favorite combination. Such a silk dress was made with a green velvet girdle and white lace figaro. Parasol and hat matched the colors. A delicate mauve silk had an underlying shade of soft

pink. The rtress itself was very plainly made and had as accessories lace frills and ruby velvet rosettes, belt, collar, etc., and a gray and ruby hat.

The newest idea in wraps is a figaro I of black moire, with capo shaped sleeves. I There were a velvet border and high collarette, both worked with jet and edged with a narrow ruffle of black silk mull,

Down the front thero fell two ends of black ribbon to the knees. The empire coat is with us still. There seems to be a seeking for new effects to mako it new for the season, but the general style is the same as it was. Indeed every lady who had one made last year can wear it now with moral courage, for it is still fashionable.

HKNRIETTE ROUSSEAU.

Wives on Probation.

The Andaman islands are used by Great Britain as a penal settlement for Indian and Burmese convicts. I The greater part of the life convicts who are good characters are "self supporters"—that is, men out on ticket of leave in the settlement These men are allowed to marry. The convict women, on the other hand, are always kept under close supervision in the female convict jail.

When the "self supporter" is troubled with hymeneal aspirations, he visits the female jail and informs the overseer. The latter individual orders a parade of those women of good character who have completed four years on the island.

The would be benedict then passes along the ranks with a view of selecting a likely helpmate.

At length, having suited himself, be likes by the band the lady of his choioe and leads her from the ranks. The couple are then allowed halt an hour in which to discuss matters, after which, if they agree, their names are sent into the office. And now comes the climax.

Supposing satisfactory answers have been given as to their mutual sentiments, the lady is handed over to the man not to become his wife for better or worse, but for a seven days' trial. During these seven days she lives with him. and the relationship of the pair is that of a married couple.

At the expiration of the term of approval, if bctb are agreeable, they return to the chief commissioner's office and are married by that gentleman. If, oo the other hand, either of them does sot approve of the other, the man is left to go his way, while the woman returns to ber old routine of work in the jail

What objection would there be to the appointment by President McKinley of a woman consul here and there? It is true that women could only vote for Major McKinley in three states of the Union, but that was not their fault In every office, municipal, state or national, to which they have been appointed women have given entire satisfaction. In many cases they have been acknowledged to perform their duties more capably and conscientiously than the men did who before occupied the office. The duties of a consul include no task that cannot easily be performed by a woman. Acquaintance with the language of the country in which the consular station is is the first requisite, and there are probably more women linguists than men among our educated American classes. In any case the woman consul would quickly learn the foreign tongue. It is the duty of a consul primarily to aid in all possible ways the commercial interests of his country. He is to find out everything concerning the exports and imports and the native products of the region surrounding his post and to particularly ascertain the prospect for increasing American trade there. Besides this, he must protect American citizens in the foreign land and help, so far as is in his power, those who are in distress. Much is made of onr ministers and embassadors to foreign lands, but it is a fact that they really are much less useful to the country than the modest, quiet consul who does his duty. Our commercial interests have been aided not a little in recent years by American consuls in foreign lands. American women do not, as a rule, take that active part in public affairs that they should do, and this is mentioned as a reproach to us by intelligent foreigners of both sexes. I am proud to say nevertheless that there are American women who could fill creditably the post of embassador or minister plenipotentiary itself to any country on the globe, I care not which one you mention. There are certainly 50,000 women who would fill in the most graceful and efficient manner any consulship. Major McKinley has much regard for Union soldiers. Let him appoint to a few modest consulships some of the intelligent widows and daughters of old soldiers— ladies, that is, who have their own living to earn. All the country will approve.

A lady who lives in a thriving little city in New York state says that at every annual tax paying season she observes on the sidewalk outside the tax receiver's office a string of baby carriages. They contain babies belonging to mothers who have gone inside to.pay their taxes. The lady says she cannot see how it would unsex those good mothers any more to bring the baby carriages to the polls while they deposited their votes than to the city building while they pay their taxes. Neither can Can you? -4 "If men and women would only Jo their haggling Over money matt^rs^n privatel"- exclaims Margery Daw in fhe New York Press. Just so. It is endtigh to discourage single men and women from matrimony forever to hear husbands and wives wrangling over money in street cars, shops and hotels.

Margaret J. Preston was an excellent lady who wrote some beautiful poetry. As much as one so gentle could scoff* at anything, she scoffed at the new woman, the one who believed a woman had the same right as a man to choose her occupation in life, whatever it might be that sjie liked best. Mrs. Preston ne'v^r tired of vaunting the "domestic privacy of her life." She claimed to do all the duties of an old fashioned housekepeer. I dare say, heaven save us, she even made preserves. Her family was a large one. Her notions of womanly domesticity would not permit her to let anybody else manage her housekeeping. She prided herself on it Well, as she herself confessed, she had crippled her literary work sadly. She never did her best writing, and she knew it and regretted it. That was one result. Another was that she suffered three years from a horrible "nervous prostration" and died before her time. The world never had the best she might have given it, her family never had the best she might have given them. All this sacrifice she made to her own dumb foolishness. 1 don't think she deserves any great sympathy except for being so silly.

The women teachers of New York city are finding out that he who would be free himself must strike the blow. For years they have been toiling on with all the modesty and unobstruSive silence so commended in their sex. Other city departments raised the pay of employees. They were left, till finally one day it occurred to somebody to notice that it was not easy any longer to get teachers for the New York public schools. Talented, well educated girls would not accept places, and there were more empty posts than applicants. The teachers themselves then looked into matters and found that 2,000 of them actually were getting less pay than tinstreet sweepers in New York. The street sweeper was hired without even knowing how to read and write the teachers had spent ten years in getting their education. They have petitioned for relief, which they will undoubtedly get

The moldy Outlook is still declaring that when a majority of the women of the country want to vote it will be in favor of giving them tbe ballot But the moidy Outlook is all the time doinf its little best to keep women frcm wanting to vote. For a paper coudo^ted by a minister of tbe gospel such a course i# extremely disingeuuous.

The noblest of human beings it tbr strong, sweet, calm worn ah who controls her emotions and keeps ber kcaii on always.

TERRE HAUTE SAWBDM EVENING MAIL, MAY 8, 1897.

THE NEW WOMAN.

S S N A in a Consntshipt

ELOU ARCHBT OOSXER.

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THE VERANDA.

Bo* to Fnrnlsh This Attractive Spot For Ease and Comfort.

The idea of converting a deep veranda into a sort of summer sitting room is a good one if not overworked. If such an attempt is made, great care must be taken not to shut the piazza in too closely by draperies and screens, and not to overload it with furnishings. The beauty of such an outdoor room is that it must be absolutely light and airy, and any contrivance that shuts out light or sunshine or that cuts off the view of green fields or blue sky is to be discour-

If a screen of any sort is desired, growing vines should answer the purpose admirably. A Japanese screen or curtain of slender bamboo rods is not objectionable, and if a drapery of any sort is considered necessary the furnish ing stores are offering some very pretty and inexpensive curtain stuffs that will answer the purpose. Furthermore, which is a great point in veranda draperies, they may be washed.

In the actual furnishing of the veranda comfort should be the first consideration. Accordingly a hammock should be the first thing bought. This should be as long and capacious as possible, and it should be swung across the sightliest corner of the veranda, so that everything may conduce to the absolute comfort of its occupants. Hammock cushions may be obtained in all possible varieties, and there can hardly be too mdny of them to make a veranda comfortable.

Veranda chairs should be roomy affairs of wicker bamboo or of pretty green rush wood, and each should have its own supply of cushions. Do not force summer loungers to sit upright in a narrow, straight chair, and, on the other hand, do not stow them away in rocking chairs, for there is no place where the sharp points of rockers are likely to cause more annoyance. It is effective and practicable to have one color, such as bright red, prominent in all the cushions and draperies.

Two or three bamboo stands or tables are indispensable to the proper equipment of a comfortable veranda. One is for the magazines and summer novles, while another must stand ready for the lemonade or other refreshment that veranda existence so frequently demands.

How to Make Cream Candy.

Place over the fire a vessel containing 2 large cupfuls of granulated sugar and half a dozen tablespoonfuls of water. Let the mixture boil until, when a little of the sirup is dropped into a cup of cold water, it will harden. The moment it will do this add 2 teaspoonfnls of vanilla and a small teaspoonful of cream of tartar. Then turn into a buttered dish, and when cool enough to handle with the hands pull it until it is white, cut into short lengths and set away to get cold.

How to Clean a Goatskin Rag.

They can be cleaned by washing or with naphtha. Wet a small part of the rug with naphtha and rub with a soft cloth until that space is clean, then clean another place, continuing uiitil the entire rug has beeli treated in this way. Hang in the air until the odor has disappeared. Take care that no gas is lit in the room while the naphtha is being used.

To wash the rug, put into a tub about four gallons of tepid water and half a pint of household ammonia. Let the rug soak in this for about half an hour, sopping it up and down in the water frequently. Rinse in several tepid waters and hang on the line to dry if possible, in a shadv place. Select a windy day for this we**.. Even with the greatest care the skin will become hard when washed. Rubbing it between the hands tends to soften it, or it may be folded lengthwise, the fur side in, and then be parsed through the clothes wringer several times. This, of course, should be done only when the rug is dry.

How Oranges Were Introduced.

Hindustan had a monopoly on oranges till this fruit spread to the other parts of the world. The crusaders brought back oranges, but the ancients round the Mediterranean were so unhappy as to die without having tasted this 'icious fruit. We are all eating the descendants of one tree. They declare the progenitor of all American and European oranges was a single oriental tree transplanted to Lisbon and still living in the last generation.

How to Make a Pecan Cake.

Mrs. McKee, daughter of ex-President Harrison, vouches for the perfection of a recipe for making pecan caka Beat together a cup of butter and 2 of sugar, adding a little beaten white of egg, then put in a cup of flour, a half cup of sweet milk, then another cup of flour. The last flour must contain 2 teaspoonfnls of baking powder. Add the whites of 8 eggs, allowing for that which has been taken from them to mix with the butter and sugar. The filling and icing is made as follows: Two cups of nuts should soak awhile in a grated pineapple, after chopping them fine. Now mix tbem into the whites (beaten stiff) of 6 eggs and powdered sugar. Put whole pecan kernels over the top of the cake while tbe icing is still soft

How to Keep Milk.

It has been declared upon good authority that milk can be kept for a week by canning it as one would fruit Fill glass jars and screw down the lids, then place them in a steamer over cold water. Heat the water gradually and steam the jars for an hoar, then tighten the tops. The woman who hfs preserved milk in this way says she can see no reason why it should not keep much longer.

B«w to Whiten Ivory KaUfc HaadU*. Ivory knife handles may be whitened and kept so if they are occasionally •oaked in alum water. Tbe alum water must boil first and then 000L After the knives have remained in tbe water an boor remove tbem and brash with a Mil brush and then allow them to hj slowly in a wet linen towel.

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LAFAYETTE'S FAMOUS VISIT.

There Was Great Excitement Over His Trip to the United States.

Jean Fraley Hallowell, who writes in Tbe Ladies' Home Journal of When Lafayette Rode Into Philadelphia,'-' says that "it is difficult to understand at this late day what a furore of excitement passed over this country when Lafayette arrived once more in America. The visit is a historic event to be remembered while memory endures. During President Monroe's second administration the United States extended its invitation to Lafayette. He arrived at Staten Island on Aug. 15 (Sunday), 1824, accompanied by his sen, George Washington Lafayette, and also by his son-in-law. A formal reception took place on- the following day, the first fruits of tbe most abundant harvest of welcome which Lafayette was to receive during his year of travel through tho United States. "Lafayette was 67 years old when be visited America as the nation's guest and carried his years lightly. His head was shaped like that of Burns. He had a high forehead, long, aquiline nose and a rather thin face. His hair waa sandy and quite plentiful. HiB eyes were dark gray, restless and twinkling, his eyebrows light in color, but heavily marked.. His mouth was firm, and his lips smiled courteously at the holiday crowd assembled to do him honor. The general was not very tall, but well made. His face was distinctly pleasant, and its expression was an odd mixture of shrewdness, decision and gay good humor. His costume was a swallowtailed coat and trousers of dark brown, with a great display of white waistcoat and neckcloth. A bunch of seals hung from a broad black ribbon at his waist. Over his shoulders hung a cloth riding cloak, greenish blue in color and lined with red."

How to Strengthen Weak Ankles.

It will be found very beneficial to bathe them in salt water—sea water if possible. Afterward they should be bound with a bandage that has been wrung out in cold water. This must be removed at night and the ankle again bathed and then massaged for five or ten minutes. A few weeks of this treatment will make them very much stronger.

Do not wear impermeable and tightfitting hats that constrict the blood-vessels of the scalp. Use Hall's Hair Renewer occasionally, and you will not be bald.

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JpELSENTHAL, A. B. Justice of the Peace and Attorney-at-Law.

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B. G. HUDNUT. President. WILLARD KIDDER. Vice-President. G. A. CONZMAN. Cashier.

Vigo County National Bank

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