Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 27, Number 43, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 24 April 1897 — Page 2
2
SOME NEW COSTUMES.
HANDSOME CREPON8 ARE STILL IN STYLE.
Tailor Gowns With French and Blouse Waists—A Dainty Morning Jacket of Figured Sarah—Ostrich Feather Trimming For Tea Gowns—Long Hat Plumes.
[Copyright, 1S87, by the Author.]
To those who thought that ere pons were out of style for at least another decade I may say that there are still crepons, and such lovely fancies in those pretty goods that they are practically new. There are printed crepons wheae the figure seems to have been printed on the stuff before it was craped up, and this gives the pattern a softness of outline as pleasing as it is curious. Then there are soft crepons in one solid color, almost as soft as the Japanese crape. Another kind has a sort of shot effect
I saw one street dress made of this latter kind of crepon, the body of the color being a soft, pale heliotrope and the folds giving a hint of mossy green in them. This dress had a plainly gathered skirt which hung heavily from the belt after the fashion of crepon. The waist was a single French one, with a Swiss belt and collar of darker purple surah. The sleeves were made with one full puff reaching to the elbow, with a band of the ribbon around them there and a deep fall of the same, shorter on the front than the back of the arm. This crepon gown was arranged with its suit of everything to make it a full outdoor costume. There was a very novel and graceful surtout qf biscuit colored figured peau de soie, th2 design in medium sized roses with their foliage, and in a rather faded rose color. This surtout was sleeveless and cut in hollow scallops around the bottom. It flared in the back like an English walking jacket In front two re vers extended down stole fashion to the bottom of the dress. Thepe tabs and the bottom of the jacket were bordered with a very close and full rose puffing of two toned taffeta, rose and pule purple. This puffing extended around the back of the neck also and formed an edging for an enormous upstanding collar of lace in medici form. It was naturally stiffened with wires.
To carry with this outfit there was a biscuit colored surah parasol with full
pAimONABLe. /^T7
ruffles at tho edge of croain colored crepe lisso. A largo bow of purple ribbon to match the bolt and stock was tied on the ivory and gold handle. The hat was of rioo straw in flat sailor form. The satuo kind of a puffing as that on the surtout was put quite around the brim. Thoro was a quilling of silk mull, exactly the same shade as tho dress, plaited into an upstandiug frill around the crown. On the left side was a tuft of superb ostrich tips shaded from white to lilac. This completed a costume that any woman may well admire from its ytodest honuty, for it is modest mostly on account of the perfection of taste displayed in its design. It is essentially a suinim costume.
I saw something today that I never did before, and that is tailor gowns with French and blouse waists. These generally—in fact, always—were made to fit the figure closely, and I think I liked I them bettor the old way. Still, others may like the new kind best One exampie I will give. It w*•- a light biscuit cloth, linn and fine. The skirt fell iu easy hut massive folds in the back. In front there was one row of narrow black velvet sowed down th^ outside of the strap seams at the front breadth. The waist was gathered at the belt all around in a slight blouse droop. There was a wi*k \vo\Vu black belt and three fancy black military braid pieces to fasten the lower part of the waist Then5 was a wide sprung collar lengthening into revers. This collar lay flat at the top and spraug out at the shoulders stiffly. It was made of the cloth, with an applique of cucumber green cloth ovor it. tho edges sewed with gol$ thread and the whole collar bound with gold braid stitched on flat The sleeves had stiff little wrinkles at the top and a I law rufHo at the wrists, headed by narrow velvet ribbon, ending in small flat bows. The collar was of the cloth, plain and smooth, with lace frills at each side. The parasol for this costume was of heliotrope surah, with wry full frills ofj silk mull, one light and one dark. The hat was of Italian straw in tan color, with a very full wreath of large orchids all around "the low crown and quite hiding it. Two large black ostrich plumes and a gilt aigret finished it 1
A dainty fancy was presented in one
place in the form of a morning jacket This was of figured surah, the color being sky bine with brown dots. The back was cut in one piece, and there was a full frill of lace on the lower edge. In front it was short and draped np to the bust line, all edges being trimmed with a full frill of lace. There was a frill at the neck which became a jabot down the front just half way. There the lace was carried around a long squared piece of the silk and left to hang loose at its own sweet wilL The sleeves wore wrinkled save at the top, where there was a slight puff. The wrists were finished with the usual lace frilL The whole garment was so simple that any one could make it, and yet it was very dressy and dainty. I saw others in the same design developed in challie and other soft figured wools and one or two in plain india silk.
An elegant gown which could do duty first as a tea gown after its first freshness has departed has a back which is cut princess style, and is of delicate French gray cashmere. The sleeves are of the same with full lace ruffles. The revers, ribbons and belt are all of black velvet There is also a line of black jet, very narrow, along the edge of the cashmere in front The under part, where the outer one hangs open, is made of pink Japanese crape laid in accordion plaits, both waist and skirt Around the neck there is an astonishing ruff of pinked and plaited pink silk muslin, with a black velvet rosette in front and a lace jabot beneath. This gown is very becoming to a brunette. In light blue it would be lovely for a blonde. On three of the newest and prettiest tea gowns I saw ostrich feather trimming. It reached around the neck and down the front, and in one instance all around the bottom of the skirt. Also one trained grand reception dress had a row all around the train composed of tufts of three tips. I never saw so many ostrich plumes before, and I am told that all summer, next fall and winter will be nodding with great plumes like those of Henry of Navarre. Whether the long continued abuse of those who wear little birds has had some effect, or whether it is that capricious fashion has from reasons of her own decided in favor of the always rich ostrich plume, I do not know. But this I do know—those feathers will have a prominence heretofore unheard
AND/V\OR NINO
of. Some of the new plumes for hats are over half a yard long. They will be used at the same time with the high panucbe of tips. Shaded feathers and the rich jet black will be the favorites, though nian^ white ones will be put on big black velvet hats.
HENUIKTTE ROUSSEAU.
Woman's Rights and Wrongs.
The women of France are denied every right except the one the Creator originally gave to man, and to man alone, as a curse—the right to work.
In France a woman's husband has a full right to all her earnings, and, unless so specified in the marriage contract, to all her possessions, real or personal. She may open a savings bank account iu her own name, but she cannot draw a cent without his permission, and if be insists upon it he can draw this money without her consent A Frenchwoman asks: "Why should a eon have more rights than his mother? Why can a woman bear a son, but not bo legally permitted to testify that she has done so? Her testimony can hang a man. Why can it not prove the birth of either a boy or a girl?"
Great banking establishments, with government charters, cannot pay a check drawn by a woman, even if the money be her own and deposited by her, without her husband's written permission, which he usually gives once for all Otherwise he could sue the bank for giving his money without his authorisation. This is so customary that when a nmrried woman gives in her name to open an account the first quee tion asked is, "Are yon a widow?" or, 'Have you your husband's authorisation?" If the new depositor is a widow, she will find each check stamped with her name and preceded by the French abbreviation for "Widow." These antiquated forms of law are found in every department of French life, hampering movement development and progresn at every point Such stagnation oppresses the American woman here and makes her anxious and timid. "Why don't you alter all this? Too make the laws." "Troe/^uwwew a patriot, "toot who elects the lawmakers? Think of oar peasants!" A. C. B.
FOR NEEDLE AND THREAD.
Little Basket That Is Useful For Traveling Womankind.
Every woman knows the convenience of an ever ready needle and thread and h«j» felt the want of her own equipment during a stay at some hotel or a visit to a friend's house. A little basket that can be packed flat in a trunk is made by cutting one piece of heavy cardboard 9 inches long by 6 inches wide to form the bottom, two for the sides and two for the ends in the shape indicated by the drawing. Let the former measure inches at the top, 10 at the lower edge and the ends 8^ for the top and 6
for the lower. Select for the covering colored linen if you aim at service and durability, figured china silk if you wish to make a pretty trifle, although the linen makes a good effect.
Lay the cloth, silk or linen upon the table then upon it lay the cardboard bottom, and with the sides and ends each in its own place so that the lower edges exactly meet the sides and ends of the center board then move each one quarter of an inch outward and put upon it a weight to hold it in place while you mark the outline of the basket upon the material. That done, remove the pieces of board and cut the cloth half an inch larger all round than the marked outline, after which cut a separate piece for each of the five bits of board, allowing half an inch on all sides.
Cover one side of each portion with its bit of silk or linen and paste the edges neatly over into place. Then when they are dry attach a pocket to each end and lay them all down upon the large bit of silk, each in its own place, taking care to preserve the quarter inch distance between each section and the central piece of braid. Turn under the protruding edges of the material and paste them down then paste each portion neatly into place and put under a heavy weight to dry. When quite firm, sew a bit of narrow ribbon to each corner and midway between it and the joint with the bottom of the basket When in use, tie all these together, as the drawing shows, and a perfect sewing basket will be formed. When you wish to pack it in your trunk, untie the ribbons, and both sides and ends will fall flat
For the handle use as heavy cardboard as will curve without breaking and wind its entire length with ribbon, finishing each end with a bow. Beneath these bows attach patent hooks, two each, and on the other side of the basket sew fast the corresponding eyes. The handle can then be readily hooked into place or unfastened and tacked without trouble. MART EARLE.
WOMEN WORKERS.
Their Pay and Employments Britain.
TEREJS HAUTE SATURDAY EVENING MAIL, APRIL 24, 1897.
In Great
There were never so many women engaged in money making as there are today. Just what the effect of this condition is and what its results may be in an economical sense it is not the present purpose to state. Neither is it necessary to express an opinion as to whether it indicates an advance or a recession in the world's progress that the woman of the present must work. She is, how ever, growing more self reliant and competent, and she has better educational advantages than ever before. She has already rejected the old notion that marriage is her only vocation, and is going about her work rather more cheerfully than men, if not with so good a preparation. Of the something like 18,000,000 women in the British islands a very large proporticn are engaged in various employments, but they do not get as good wages as are paid in this country. It is estimated that there are 450 editors, authors and journalists there. Five of them make $20,000 a year, but these are writers of fiction. One woman journalist makes §3,500 a year, and there are quite a number who make from $1,000 to$l,500a year with their pens. Of the lady artists there are not a half dozen who make $1,500 a year. In the domain of learning the highest reward known to be paid is $5,000 a year. There are four positions occupied by ladies at Oxford or Cambridge which pay this sum. Ordinary school teachers make anywhere between $100 and $ 1,000 a year, the multitude earning less than $300 per year. For governesses the average pay is §100 a year with board, and at present there are about 125,000 women engaged in this occupation. The popular employment for girls there as well as in the United States is shorthand and typewriting, and the wages vary between $4 and $8 a week. Almost every railway company in Great Britain now employs lady clerks, and the salaries range from $2.50 to $20 per week. There are likewise a good many female postal employees—far more than there are in this country. The pay for this work is rarely over $7 per week. The number of women employed as shop hands is innumerable. They have, of course, monopolized the millinery business, as they have ii this country, and the florist's business as they have not on this side of the water. These facts and figures are given merely to show women that they are perhaps quite as well paid in this coun try as they are in any other under tfason, although, of course, their wage a compared with that of men is not wha it should be. J. M. G.
During the present Lenten seasot Miss Lida Hose McCabe has been giving with flattering success steieopticon lec lures on the influence of the wbit friars of Florence on art. The work ol this brotherhood, so quiet and so cut ol the usual walks of artists, is exceedingly interesting, and Miss McCabe has reproductions cl pictures never before seen in an illustrated lectors.
IN RAINBOW COLORS.
THEY DO NOT SHOCK THE STYLISH WEARER.
lemoD Tellow, Pea Green and Bright Bed Are Quite Common—New Dress Goods. Handsome Poplins and Brocaded Silks.
Thin Goods.
fSpecial Correspondence.]
NEW YORK, April 19.—For a refined lady a couple of short seasons ago to have worn such a combination of primary colors as is now in fashion would have been to proclaim her deficient in taste or. color blind. I have in my mind's eye a walking or visiting dress of lemon yellow armure silk, with a garniture of red brocade, trimmed with white lace and black velvet ribbon. And yet, being familiar now with the brilliant colorings, this does not shock me in the least On the contrary, I find it handsome. Perhaps this is because of the artistic disposal of the colors. The
WALKJNC. TCU-TTTIA.
dress itself was of a tight princess form, cut away at the bust to show a vest of red and yellow brocade. The pattern was what is commonly known as vermicelli, the ground being yellow and the figure red. All the edges of the armure on the waist and down the skirt were waved and bordered with narrow black velvet ribbon and inch wide white lace. It was lapped across at the waist and opened below it over a panel of the red and yellow brocade. This panel had rows of velvet ribbon heading lace ruffles. Two rows were put around the skirt, both down the fronts and around the bottom. The sleeves were simply awful and were composed of ungraceful, stiff ruffles, trimmed to match the rest of the gown. The upper part of the sleeves under the multiple caps was of lace laid over the yellow silk and the lower part was of armure. And to add to the combination of color, a ruby taffeta parasol was provided for the costume and an immense hat of cardinal straw, rolled upward in front and held by a great bow of yellowish pompadour ribbon. In the back there were four immense black plumes curled around in most picturesque shape.
Pea green is another favorite spring color and that is found in all the materials now in the market, from calico to the richest silk. This is a color so trying that no woman, blond or brunette, dares wear it near her face so those who want it are obliged to relegate it to skirts alone. It is pretty enough so, though rather glaring. Black velvet ribbon is a garniture often seen on it, and sometimes a flat row of black Spanish or cliantilly is laid along the edge of the skirt or down the front side seams.
There are just now but few novelties to note, the most of the apparently new goods being but different designs of old ones. The lampas and brocaded silks vary but little from those of last fall, unless it is that they are in rather quieter coloring. These goods are superb in quality, and when they are in too glaring colors the whole appearance is cheapened. The patterns are both large and small to suit all tastes. In wool and silk warp the henriettas take the first place in colors and the matchless eudora cloth in black. This is richer than any silk and costs more, though its width and wearing qualities make it more valuable than silk.
There is anew poplin, which is crisp and yet pliable, and as a foil to so much color this is shown in a soft and pleasing line of tints in self color. Anew homespun is shown for tailor gowns, and this, too, is in quiet colors and is soft to the touch, which homespun never was before. Some of this is twirled
KXW MILUSHEBT.
and some twisted. This latter is rather harsh, but makes np well. Corkscrew suitings are shown for the first time in colors. Corded cloth is quite new. It is very wide and has a fine, firm body, and so far it has been produced only in neutral tints and deep prune color. But doubtless it will soon be seen in other colors, as it it bound to take public fancy.
Hats and bonnets grow prettier and somewhat more modest as the season waxes. But they are pretty all the same. Flowers and featbea are quarreling for tbe mastery, with fwithers somewhat ahead. Ours Hiirat
Independent business wo* man we will start yon. If you are interested In starting a millinery store enclose 5 cents stamps for mailing large illustrated catalogue and full information. Address:
Arrive from the East. Leave for the West.
7 West. Ex*. 1.30 am 15 Mall & Ac* 10.05 a 5 St. L. Lim* 10.19 a 21 St. L. Ex*.. 2.44 3 Mail & Ac. 6.45 11 Fast Mail*. 9.04
Arrive from the West.
6 N. Y. Ex*.. 3.20 a 14 Eff. Ac 9.30 a 20 Atl'c Ex*. .12.41 8 Fast Line*. 1.50 2 N. Y. Lim*. 5.22
33 Mall & Ex..9.00 a 49 Worth. Mix.3.50
6 & N Lim* 4.50 a 2 & Ex.11.20 a 8 NO&FSpl* 3.25 10 TH&M Loc 4.10 4E&C Ex*. 11.55
36 N YtCinEx*1.55 a 4 In&CldEx. 8.00 a 8 Day Ex*... 2.56 pm 18 Knlckb'r*. 4.31
One of these Beautiful Paris Pattern Hate
TO EACH OF OUR LADT READERS. TblsBtyllah and elegant parisiatn pattern hat of One ffcntT straw br&td.ta trimmed throughout with highclass materials only, plain all silk or figured Dresden ribbon. Imported mooture of fine flowers on top and under back brim, floe paqaetsaod steel.gilt or pearl and opal ornament, any colors desired, positively could not be duplicated elsewhere for le**than$3.3&.
To promptly Ruin your patronage and Influence ttnoDg your friends we will send one of these beautifully trimmed hits to nr./address securely packed, upon receipt of butSl.00. tf accompanied by this advertisement and the full addresses of ten of your most stylish lady acquaintances. Send dress sample and state your own age and colors desired. One of our large illustrated catalogues showing over MO latest Parisian and American styles and a sample bottle of Honeysuckle Complexion fluid free with each order. 11 yon would like to start a millinery store ot your own and become an
E. NEWMAN & CO.,
Wholesale and Retail Milliners,
2703 and 2706 Franklin Ave., ST. LOUIS, MO.
RAILROAD TIE TABU
Trains marked thus run dally. Train* marked thus run Sundays only. All othei trains run daily. Sundays excepted.
VANDALIA LINE. MAIN LINE.
7 West. Ex*. 1.40 a a 5 St. L. Lim*. 16.24 a re 21 St. L. Ex*.. 2.49 pir 13 Eff. Ac 4.20 rc 11 Fast Mail*. 9.09 rc
Leave for the East.
12 Ind Lim'd*11.20 a 6 N. Y. Ex*.. 3.25 am 4 Mall & Ac. 7.15 a rc 20 Atl'c Ex*. .12.46 8 Fast Line* 1.55 2 N. Y. Lim* 5.27
MICHIGAN DIVISION.
Leave for the North. Ar. from the North
6 St Joe Mail.6.20 a 113 T. H. Ex.. .11.17 an 8S. Bend Ex.4.20 pm 11 T. H. Mall. 6.40 rc
PEORIA DIVISION.
Leave for Northwest. Ar. from Northwest,
7 N-W Ex 8.00 am 20 Atltc Ex ..11.30 am 21 Decatur Ex 3.30 6 East'n Ex. 7.00
EVANSVILLE & TERRE HAUTE. NASHVILLE LINE. Leave for the South. 5 & N Lim*. 2.01 a 3 & Ev Ex*. 5.38 a 7 NO&FlaSpl* 3.40 1 Ev & I Mall. 3.20
Arrive from South.
6 & N Lim* 3.55 a a 2THE&X* .11.00am 80 N 0& FSpl* 3.20 ns 4 & Ind Ex*11.10 pa
EVANSVILLE & INDIANAPOLIS. Leave for South.
Arrive from South.
48 Mixed .10.10 a 32 Mall & Ex. 3.00 no
CHICAGO & EASTERN ILLINOIS. Leave for North.
Arrive from North.
3 & E E 5 3 0 a 9 M&TH Loc. 10.45 a 1 O & Ev Ex.. .2.30 5C& NLim*. 11.55pa 7 NO&FSpl*.. 3.35pm
C. C. C. & I.—BIG FOUR. Going East.
DR. R. W. VAN VALZAH,
Dentist,
Office, No. 5 South Fifth Street.
A Handsome Complexion
is ono of Ithe greatest charms a woman can possess. POZZONI'S COMPLEXION POWDER gives it.
C. F. WILLIAM, D. D. S.
DEiNTAL PARLORS,
Corner Sixth and Main Streets,
TERRE HAUTE. IND.
To the Young Face
Pozzom's COMPLEXION POWDERgivesfresher charms to the old, renewed youth. Try it.
O'NEIL & SUTPHEN
If you are going
Tennessee (entennial [xposition
$3.25
STYLISHLY TRIMMED
MAT FOR $1.00
SOUaTH
THE LOUISVILLE & NASH-
1
VTLLE RAILROAD CO~*
Presents the best possible service from Northern to all Southern cities, and will carry you through Nashville, the location of tne Greatest Exposition this country has ever had, with the possible exception of the Columbian.
ROUND TRIP TICKETS AT
1V
LOW RATES jMjfcjftjftjft
Will be on sale from nil points to Nashville on every day between May 1 and Oct. 31 1897. For full information write to
I. H. MILLIKEN, Dist. Pass. Agt.. Louisville, Ky. C. P. ATMORE, Oen'l Pass. Ait., LcnisTille, Ky.
CATARRI
Ask your
Druggist
Going West.
for a generous
35 St EX*... 1.33 an. 9 Ex & Mail'ioioo a a 11S-W Lim*.. 1.37 pm 5 Matt'n Ac. 6.30 pm
IO CENT
TRIAL SIZE.
Ely's Cream Balm
contains 110 cocaine, a other Injurious drug.
It Is quickly absorbed. Gives relief at once.
It opens and
Ms
an,'K'sclean-
pk:COLD
'N HEAD
flammatlon. Heals and protects the Membrane. Restores the Senses of Taste and Smell. Full Size 50c. Trial Size 10c. at Druggists or by mail. ELY BROTHERS, 50 Warren St., New York.
gAMUEL M. HUSTON, Lawyer, Notary Public.
Rooms 3 and 4. 517K Wabash avenue. Telephone. 457.
JpELBENTHAL, A. B. Justice of the Peace and Attorney- at- Law.
26 South Third Street, Terre Haute, Ind.
B. G. HUDNUT. President. WILLARD KIDDER. Vice-President. G. A. CONZMAN. Cashier.
Vigo County National Bank
Capital $150,000. Surplus $30,000.
O E I N E A N E
624 Main Street. TERRE HAUTE, IND.
Machine Works
Manufacturers and Dealers in Machinery and Supplies. Repairs a Specialty.
Eleventh and Sycamore Sts., Terre Haute, Ind.
LOOK HERE!
If yon are going to build, what is the use of going to see three or four different kinds of contractors? Why not go and see
A. PROMMB,
Greneral Contractor
418 WILLOW STREET,
As he employs the best of mechanics in Brick Work, Plastering, Car pentering, Painting, etc., and will furnish you plans and specifications wanted.