Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 27, Number 41, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 10 April 1897 — Page 2

STRIKING MILLINERY

FASHION'S PAROXYSM OF SHAPE AND COLOR.

Yet There Are Some Artistic Creation*, and PoMlbly tbe Fkir Sex lb Choose

Them Bather Than the Extreme* of

Style—Mew Spring Salts mod Accessories.

[Copyright, 1807, by the Author.] The Easter bonnet, and incidentally the bat, too, will decidedly outshine itself this year in many ways. The shapes are remarkable, some of them having crowns afoot high and bat six inches in diameter. There are two shapes of these crowns. One is bell crowned, and the other narrows as it reaches the top. The brims are the same size all around, forming thus a complete circle. The brims are undulated, sometimes singly and at other times having a double one, or perhaps one might call it a ruffle of straw. These high crowned hats are of coarse straw and of all colors of the rainbow—literally so, though each one is in one color only. A bright blue rough braid straw had a frill of accordion plaited silk mull around it, very full and just as wide as the brim of the hat. This frill was of pale blue mull and drawn down ia the front, where two large dark blue aigrets were placed so that the filmy threads would droop each side. That was all the trimming, and one ought to see that hat if beautiful things appeal to the eye, for this is really beautiful and artistic.

Pink on cardinal and ruby is often seen. These rough straws look better, I think, when trimmed with plaited silk muslin than anything else. One in deep, dark red, rough and coarse, had a frilling all around the crown of black silk muslin, while in front there was an enormous bow of shaded striped pink ribbon. This kind of bow may be purchased ready to sew upon a hat, and many women are glad of that, as so few amateurs can tie such a bow. There are perfectly flat disks or plateaux with uotohed and often openwork edges, and these are twisted into all sorts of shapes and with the addition of the trimming becomo visions of loveliness. There are some in shape of a conductor's cap, and others have no crown, so that a soft velvet crown may be set in. The# always beoomiug jockey oap is among the new ones. One that pleased me very much was of coarse black straw, the brim turned upward all around. The hat dipped slightly in front. All around the crown was a wreath of perfect holly leaves with a bunch of the pretty red berries on the left side. On the right side there were three high loops composed of one black, one green and one holly red ribbon each plaited and joined

/Mev/ MAT5

to the other. Wires held them up izi place. Each ribbon had three plaits, so that each loop was about four inches wide.

Some of the hats have no flowers. Others are positively loaded with them. Quills and fancy plumes and ostrich feathers aro seen. The poppies in purple and green satin are queer flower^ but look all right when seen on tbe new hnta Scarlet velvet geraniums and white carnations have blossomed, and bunches of every kind of flower that blooms are offered. In some cases they aro set closely to the hat or bonnet, and then again they may bo seen olimbing high up above the crown in a toppling bnnch. Jet and black and white lace are all very fashionable, and there are no limits set as to how they shall be employed.

The black satin straw and fine French chip always make handsome hata, particularly when trimmed by clever French fingers. One very striking one was ornamented by a magpie band of ribbon around the crown and an upright frilling, very full and five inches high, of white silk muslin. There were two black empire plumes. In front was a fancy ornament, imitating emeralds and diamond*. A pearl gray French chip was bound with royal blue velvet and trimmed with a bow and drapery of the same, with a white fancy bird on one side. A plateau, also of gray chip, was bound with emerald green velvet and had a touch or two of it on the crown amid the tufts of snowy ostrich plumes and set in the dents made by "pinching" in tbe crown. Stylish, though not so very handsome, was a black chip beef eater, with canary colored velvet drapery, fans of white lace and black tips, and a doable bow of black ribbon. But prettiest of all was a rich blue satiu chip plateau, tortured up into a suggea-

U.

lion of the continental shape. Upon one side was a puffing of pale blue china crape, lying nearly flat with tbe brim. This was raised high on the right side, to hold a tuft of three shades of blue and one black plume, all held by a large strass buckle. Above were three large white cosmos flowers. The English walking hat is also worn to quite an extent, and it may be extremely simple or very elaborately trimmed. One has a plover's breast only, while another, of gray straw, is smothered in white lace, with a big, round jeweled ornament, two aigrets and five cocoa colored ostrich plumes.

Very many straw hats are of green in one shade or another, and often of two or three mixed. No other color makes such a background for the flowers, or indeed any other trimming. Panama straw has come again,and when trimmed like one I saw today, with a drapery of grasscloth and an upright plaiting of the same, forming a relief to the odd arrangement of purple pokeberries and their tender green leaves, they are very pleasing. Soft green mull or lace or crepe lisse is shirred into pretty forms and these hold bunches of delicate flowers, mostly lilacs. Lilacs and pink roses are put together to trim some of these delicate and delicious little hats and bonnets.

The blouse waist with variations is in, and the bolero and figaro are almost ubiquitous. They are often so altered as to be almost unrecognizable. The draped surplice waist and the French waist are as popular as any, holding equal honors with the new military braiding on the tailor costumes. Braiding and accordion plaiting are both revived and very much liked, and deservedly so.

HENRDUTE ROUSSEAU.

THE NEW WOMAN.

Mary Ann Fortune of

Smith Blade •1,000,000.

She was only a plain Irish woman, born in County Cavan 68 years ago. She came to America in her early youth, and when she was 18 years old she found herself in Newark, N. J. At the age of 21 she married Smith, a carpenter. He worked with saw and plane she opened a little grocery. They tell of her that she used to walk all the way from Newark to Jersey City and back, carrying the goods she was to sell in her little store. At any rate, she stuck to her business just as anybody determined to make a fortune would do and prospered. When her husband died in 1872, Mary Ann Smith was already well to do. But she had made up her mind to become rich. With the shrewdness be longing only to the financier, she saw great possibilities in the glass making industry. After her husband's death she gave up her grocery and devoted herself with all her enthusiasm to glass mak-

AMD*

(jOWaT

ing. She bought out a factory that was losing ground and soon started it up financially. Rivals tried to down her, thinking it would not be hard to do a woman out of her success. Mary Ann Smith, on the contrary, did them quite brown—fairly roasted them—when they came to tackle her. She followed up the best improvements and introduced new machinery into her works. She became the head of the American Glass Bending and Beveling works. Tbe establishment was one of the leading factories oi its kind in America. She went to the factory every day herself, knowing that eternal watchfulness and industry are the price of success in any undertaking. Her hand was on tbe lever at every move, her eye watched all expenditures, all incoming moneys. With all her indomitable business pluck, energy and genius, Mary Ann Smith was likewise a good domestic woman, though really it would not have mattered whether she had been or not, with all the rest she accomplished. She brought up six sons in the way they should go. They seem to be worthy of such a famous mother, all having been employed by her in the glass works. When she died lately, she left a fortune of not less than $1,000,000. Keep the name of Mary Ann Smith of Newark in your mind. She was a burning and a shining light for the industrial advancement of woman. Her example shows to us all that where there is a will there is a way.

An amendment to the New Jersey constitution which will make it certain that women can have school suffrage in that state baa passed the senate.

The prospect now ia that vary shortly women will receive tbe full degree® oi the University of Cambridge, England. Tbe ruling board is not in favor of

women studying in the same classes with men, but of giving them degrees after they have obtained the knowledge elsewhere.

In Paris there is a hotel for divorced women. A lady who had been divorced from her husband under circumstances of such aggravation that she felt as if she never wanted to see a man again founded the establishment It is a home where, only women who have been di vorCed are'admitted. No man is allowed to enter the mansion. It is not a convent or a boarding house, but something half way between. The ladies enjoy every luxury. They come and go and mingle in society as they like. The home is their refuge from the slings and arrows which in the old world society is even yet cruel enough to cast at the divorced women, even though divorce was all that was left her in justice to her own self respect. In their home the ladies are queens, and no outside spite or slanders can reach them. There is only one condition attached to their entrance into the handsomely appointed hotel. It is that they must take the vow never to marry again. This they seem very willing to do. It was to get out of matrimony they wanted a divorce, not to get into it again.

Ex-Mayor William R. Grace of New York has done a praiseworthy act for. womankind. He will establish in that city a great industrial school for girls and women. In it will be taught all the trades in which women can generally engage, such as typewriting, stenography, telegraphy, millinery, dressmaking, cooking, etc. Bookkeeping and all the branches of laundering will be taught too. Here the poor of our sex may go and be fitted out with an excellent breadwinning occupation. Mr. Grace expects, it is said, to spend $2,000,000 on the enterprise. The world is fairly languishing for just such schoo?" in every large city. A woman's firl right is the right to earn her own living in any honorable way she sees fit. The philanthropist who prepares girls to do this is helping to elevate the sex.

It is just cause for divorce when a man spits upon the floor and refuses to keep his teeth clean.

The Reynolds-Eversole Musical combination of Springfield, Ills., furnishes an inspiring illustration of what girls can do. The Reynolds sisters, Elizabeth K. and Anna Swan Reynolds, compose the words of exquisite songs and ballads. They ore poets. Miss Rosa Mansfield Eversole, a graduate of the College of Music of Cincinnati, is a brilliant professional pianiste and likewise a gifted musical composer. Miss Eversole evolves from the inner harmonies of her genius the sweet, thrilling melodies that fit the Reynolds sisters' poetry, The combination is complete and successful financially. It is becoming more and more widely known. The young ladies expect, soon to produce an opera Among the best known of their sonpq are Tender Heart and True, "A Rose* a Pearl and a Song." "I Know a Garden Fair," adapted to a male quartet, is also one of the Reynolds-Eversole compositions. These fine girls are all young and full of enthusiasm.

TEKRJ5 HAUTE SATURDAY EVENING MAIL, APRIL 10, 1897.

ELIZA ARCHARD CONNER.

For Mascallne Use.

A suitable and acceptable Easter gift with which to greet one's husband, brother or friend ia not always easy tc select. The cushion shown in the drawing has the merit of being practical in the extreme and of embodying all the sentiment that accompanies a gift made by the giver's own hands at one and the same time. The design is one especially well suited to a smoking room oi masculine den, but it will be found safe offering for even such men as dt not boast an apartment set apart foi their own use.

As tbe intention is to make a sturdy pillow that will withstand much usage, deaim is the best possible material t( choose. The model from which the illustration was made is of light brow) or fawn color, but there are several equally good. Which is best can only br a matter of taste. But whatever the color, the pipes must be copied afte some good model, while the cigars must take their own deep brown, and eacl group most be tied with some bright hued ribbon, as red or yellow.

The bag can be made grave or gay in tone as you may prefer. A network fox

the lower portion represented by gold thread and a top of brown is effective, and a dozen other combinations will suggest themselves at once. The best result can be gained only by choosing such color as best suits the background, so that it is impossible to lay down any law. A most successful combination shows an exact replica of tbe owner'* own beloved meerschaum in the pipe# and tbe pouch that be treasures in the bag, while round tbe fitter is worked an apt notr*ion extomng the fragrant weed. The edge is finished with a beavj silk cord, and the back is of plain denim, the same shade as that used as a foundation for the embroidery.

Being a married man, the happy owner has thus far recollected to tun the cushion about when in use and to sr preserve tbe ornamental front Thi work, however, is, none of it, overdelioate, Mid even without such care it can be trusted to endure for a sufficient lezkgth of time to warrant the labor ex

Mast F.arijs.

-s ,1

sr-v.

USED TO STICK TYPE.

THE NEW FIRST ASSISTANT POST­

MASTER GENERAL cf ,y

IFo Frills on Percy Heath—Men Who Have

Filled the Position of Secretary to the

President—The Salary and the Requirements.

[Special Correspondence.!

WASHINGTON, April 5.—I wrote you something about Pterry Heath at the end of the campaign, when he passed through Washington on his way to Mexico for a ^rell earned rest. At that time it was understood in semiofficial places that be could be private secretary to the new president if he wanted the place. But Mr. Heath did not want to be private secretary even to a president In fact, he was very doubtful about taking any office, preferring to return to newspaper life. When he saw the president elect a few weeks later, he had in his mind a foreign appointment, but She president and Mr. Hanna wanted him to stay in this country. Major McKinley offered him the place of first assistant postmaster general then, but the announcement was not made until Mr. Gary had been consulted.

Mr. Heath is a native of Indiana, and he is proud of being a Hoosier. When he was 18 years old, Mr. Heath left school to eDter a printing office. One of his contemporaries in those days was James Whitcomb Riley. From Indianapolis Mr. Heath came to Washington and handled copy in the offioe of The Evening Critio.

Mr. Heath graduated from The Critic office into the United Press bureau. From that position he rose to be Washington correspondent of various influential papers.

There never was a more faithful, conscientious. earnest worker. He was at his office at 0 every morning, and he staid until 11 or 12 at night. He was good natured to the point of distraction, and he did more kindnesses to the members from Indiana than they ever had a chance to do for him. His office was always Indiana headquarters, and not only the members from his state, but every Indiana officeholder, made a habit of "dropping in on Perry Heath" two or three times a week.

About six years ago he married Miss Conway of Louisville. Three years later he and his brothers organized a syndicate which bought a controlling interest in The Commercial Gazette, Cincin nati, and Mr. Heath became the manager of the paper. He found hard sledding in his new venture. Competition was keen, advertising bad. He saw a chance to sell out at a profit a year ago, and he sold.

When Mr. Heath left Cincinnati, he told me that he intended to work for Major McKinley's election. "McKinley is going to be nominated,'' he said. ''If he is elected, we will have prosperity, and my business investments will benefit." He called on Mr. Hanna, made arrangements to undertake certain missionary work and was in St Louis two weeks before the Republican convention met. After the convention he took charge of the literary bureau of the Re publican committee at Chicago and superintended the expenditure of $7501000 in the distribution of campaign documents. When the election was over, he went to Mexico and California on the first pleasure trip he had taken in five years.

Mr. Heath is tall, slender, with high cheek bones, a thin mustache which has a tendency to stand out straight and a thin coat of hair on his scalp. He has a kindly smile and a soft voice. He has a very wide acquaintance among public men. They all call him "Perry," and they are all his friends. There will be no sanctity about the office of first assistant postmaster general in this administration. If you want to see the first assistant, walk into his office and take a chair. There are no frills on Perry Heath.

The newspaper correspondents were disappointed when Heath was not made private secretary. Few of them knew Secretary Porter, and all of them knew Heath. They felt assured that with Heath in the White House tbe doors would not be barred against them as they have been for four years. I don't mean that they were physically shut out, but news gathering at the White House was made so difficult and disagreeable under the self sufficient Thurber that not one tenth of the newspaper correspondents went to the White House regularly for news.

It is a curious fact that in selecting a private secretary (he is called "secretary to the president" now) almost all the presidents have gone outside tbe long list of men who have had a Washington experience and who were otherwise eligible for the place. Colonel Lamont, before he came here, had experience only as a legislative correspondent at Albany and as private secretary to the governor of New York. Halford was an Englishman who had been managing editor of John C. New's paper, tbe Indianapolis Journal, and who wanted to be minister to Denmark when Harrison was made president John C. New asked for the fat position of consul general at London, however, so Halford had to abandon his ambition to go abroad, and as President Elect Harrison saw a way to make bim useful in Washington he was appointed private secretary.

Thurber was a Wisconsin lawyer of limited practice and no public experience, and his one qualification for service when Don Dickinson suggested him was his adoration for Grover Cleveland. The president elect accepted him on tbe certificate-of his admiration and respect, and Mr. Thurber has lived up to tbe character Mr. Dickinson gave him. His power, however, has been to annoy where Halford and L*-

GsoMnc GmAimuM Ban.

'&*-

J-

fcr*.

How to Obtain the Bert Results With Chinese Lilies.

For "quick

blooming choose a dish

maybe 5 inches in depth and wititan open top. Having selected your dish, take your bulbs and place them on layer of sand, pebbles or shells, then pack the shells well around the bulbs in such way that when the strong roots begin to push up from the bottom of the receptacle they will not push the bulb itself out of the water. This seems to me to be about the only thing to be looked out for. Water is the chief essential tc strong growth, and this must be supplied frequently, even to bulbs watergrown, as they soon drink up what is placed in a shallow dish, and it is an easy matter every morning to fill tbe glasses. It is not necessary that the bulbs should be covered with water, br) it is necessary that they should Ite abov half submerged.

Bits of charcoal placed in the watewill keep it sweet, and a little ammonia in the water will assist in nourishing the bulb.

Carpenters, and other mechanics, who are so apt to fall from scaffolds and dislocate a limb, will please remember that there is nothing so good for inflammation as Salvation Oil, the greatest cure for sprains and bruises.

DR. R. W. VAN VALZAH,

Dentist, Office, No. 5 South Fifth Street.

A Handsome Complexion

is one of the greatest charms a woman can possess. POZZONI'S COMPLEXION POWDBR gives it.

RAILROAD TIME TABLE

Trains marked thus run dally. Trains marked thus (t) run Sundays only. All other trains run dally, Sundays excepted.

VANDALIA LINE.

MAIN LINE.

Arrive from the East. 7 West. Ex*. 1.30 a 15 Mail & Ac* 10.05 am 5 St. L. Lim* 10.19 am 21 St. L. Ex*.. 2.44 pm 3 Mall & Ac. 6.45 11 Fast Mail*. 9.04 pm Arrive from the West. 6 N. Y. Ex*.. 3.20 am 14 Eff. Ac 9.90 a 20 Atl'c Ex*. .12.41 8 Fast Line*. 1.50 2 N. Y. Lim*. 5.22

MICHIGAN DIVISION.

Leave for the North. 6 St Joe Mail.6.20 am 8 S. Bend Ex.4.20

Ar. from the North 13T. H. Ex... 11.17 am 11 T. H. Mall. 6.40 pm

PEORIA DIVISION.

Leave for Northwest. 7N-W Ex ....8.00 am 21 Decatur Ex 3.30

Ar. from Northwest. 20 Atltc Ex ..11.30 am 6 East'n Ex. 7.00

EVANSVILLE & TERRE HAUTE.

NASHVILLE LINK.

Leave for the South. Arrive from South. SO&NLim*. 2.01am 3 & Ev Ex*. 5.38 a 7 NOaFlaSpl* 3.40 pm 1 Ev& I Mall. 3.20 pm

6 O & N Lim* 3.55 a 2THE&X* .11.00an 80 N OA FSpl* 3.20 os 4 0 A Ind Ex*11.10

EVANSVILLE A INDIANAPOLIS. Leave for South. 33Mail Sc Ex..9.00am 49 Worth. Mix. 3.50

Arrive from South. 48 TH Mixed. 10.10 am 32 Mail & Ex. 3.00

CHICAGO & EASTERN ILLINOIS. Leave for North. 60 & N Lim* 4.50a 2TH&C Ex.11.20 a 8 NO&FSpl* 3.25 pm lOTH&MLoc 4.10 pm 4 E & O Ex*.11.55

Arrive from North.

3 O & E Ex*.. 5.30 an 9 M&TH Loc.10.45 a 1 O & Ev Ex.. .2.30 BjBB 5 O & N tiim*.11.55 pBC 7 NO&FSpl*.. 3.35pm

C. C. C. ft I.—BIG FOUR. Going East. N Y*CinEx*1.55 am 4In&CldEx. 8.00 am 8 Day Ex*... 2.56 pm 18 Knlckb'r*. 4.31

Going West.

35StL Ex*... 1.33am 9 Ex St Mail*10.00 a 118-WLlm*.. 1.37 pm 5 Matt'n Ac. 6.30

O'NEIL & SUTPHEN

If you arc going

sou

I

(entennial

[xposition

THE LOUISVILLE & NASH-

1

VTLLE RAILROAD CO~*

Presents the best possible service from Northern to all Southern cities, and will carry you through Nashville, the location of the Greatest Exposition this country has ever had, with the possible exception of the Columbian.

ROUND TRIP TICKETS AT

AX

LOW RATES

Will be on sale from nil points to Nashville on every day between May 1 and Oct. 31, 1897. For full information write to

I. H. ULLIKEN, Dist. Pass. Ant., Lonisrilli, U. C. P. ATMORE, Oen'l Pass. Act., LcutsTille, Ky.

A Local Disease A Climatic

gAMUEL M. HUSTON, Lawyer, Notary Public.

Get the very best, and that is the product of the

TERRE HAUTE BREWING CO.

Rooms 3 and 4. 517H Wabash avenue. Telephone. 457.

To the Young Face

PonoNi's OoMPUUCioN POWDBRgivesfreaher oharaas^otheold^jnewec^youth^^jMt^

JpELSENTHAL. A. B. Justice of the Peace and Attorney* at-Law. 26 South Third Street, Terre Haute, Ind.

C. F. WILLIAM, D. D. S.

DENTAL PARLORS,

Corner Sixth and Main Streets,

TERRE HAUTE. IND.

N. HICKMAN,

1212 Main Street.

All calls will receive the most careful attention. Open day and night.

When You. Order Your

TABLE

YOUNS PEOPLE

CO TO

MERCIAL C0LLE8E

TERRE HAUTE,

Where a thorough business education is given all students. Book-keeping, Shorthand, Telegraphy and Typewriting k\ thoroughly taught bv experts. The

I®

one

Machine Works

Manufacturers and Dealers In Machinery and Supplies. Repairs a Specialty. Eleventh and Sycamore Sts., Terre Haute, Ind.

LOOK HERE!

If yon are going to build, what is the use of going to see three or four different of contractors? Why not go and see A* FROMMB,

I

CATARR

Affection

hr

Nothing but a local remedy or change of climate will cure It.

Leave tor the West. 7 West. Ex*. 1.40 am 5 St. L. Lim*.10.24 am 21 St. L. Ex*.. 2.49 13 Eff. Ac 4.20 pm 11 Fast Mail*. 9.09

Get a well-known pharmaceutical remedy.

Ely's Cream Balm

It is quickly Absorbed. Gives Relief at once.

Leave for the East. 12 Ind Ltm'd*11.20 a no 6 N. Y. Ex*.. 3.25 am 4 Mall & Ac. 7.15 am 20 Atl'c Ex*..12.46 8 Fast Line* 1.55 2 N. Y. Lim* 5.27

COLD'n HEAD

Opens and cleanses the Nasal Passages, allays Inflammation, heals and protects the Membrane, restores the Senses of Taste and Smell. No Cocaine, no mercury, no injurious drug. Full sizo, 50c: trial size, 10c. At druggists or by mall. ELY BROTHERS, 56 Warren St., New York.

TERRE HAUTE .COM-

°f the oldest ana largest in tne

West. National in its character. Students enter at any time. Both sexes. Terms low. Fine illustrated catalogue, free.

AJdre* W. C. I8BELL, President, TERRE HAUTE, IND.

Contractor

410 "WILLOW 8TRBBT,

A* be employs the beat of mechanics in Brkk Work, Plastering, Car pestering, Painting, etc., aad will furnish yon plans and specifications wanted.