Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 27, Number 39, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 3 April 1897 — Page 4

VARIETY OF STYLES.

FROM GRAVE TO GAY IN THE REALM OF FASHION.

Brilliant and Somber Colon—Appropriate Garb For Rainy Day Wear—New Things In Corsets—Gowns Suitable For a Grand lacltess— Minor Things,

[Copyright, 1897, by the Author.] I think I have never seen a season open with such a contradictory lot of styles. There is the nltra common sense gown for business and outdoor wear and also for home requirements, and there are others where it would seem as if the very spirit of poor little frou frou had entered into their composition or at least suggested their design. Many of the home gowns, especially for the young, are exceptionally neat in design, and although there is such an endless array of brilliant attd almost gaudy colors there are also some as quiet and sober as the most conservative person might wish.

In these days when so many ladies are in business, und so many more are agi-

SEN'SIliLE GOWNS.

tating

the question of sensible dressing

for rainy days and for marketing, shopping and the huudred and one other occasions where it is almost vulgar to make a display of fine or noticable garments, we find some perfect costumes. One whole suit was of the beautiful new

Venetian

serge in a dull bluish

gray. The skirt was cut to hang full and freo around the bottom, which reached to the top of the instep, a gOod 2% inches from the bottom. At the top it was arranged with fly fronts, which buttoned with round oxidized silver buttons. On the right side was a deep and roomy pocket. On the left was the open ing of the skirt. The bodice was in form of a tight basque cutaway in front over a simulated vest of very dark, rich, blue velvet and a wide draped velvet swiss belt. All the rest was smooth. Down the fronts there were rows of the buttons and real buttonholes. The sleeves were tight, with double caps, and they had a row or buttons and make believe buttonholes all the way down to the wrists. This- gave the costume a dressy look, and yet one quite in keeping with the general plan.

Tliero was another pretty, though rather more ornamental, gown, made of hair line poplin in deep plum and cream. The

Bkirt

was not wido or flaring.

Around the bottom and half way up the left side front seam there was a finish consisting of a narrow knife plaiting of the same material, which is not too heavy to look well so treated. Above this, all around, there were two rows of velvet ribbon three-quarters of an inch wide in a drop shade of plum. A deep swiss girdle was made of the same and edged with the plaiting at the bottom. The upper part of the corsage was gathered foil, and there was a small flgaro trimmed to match the rest. The sleeve caps hud ruffles at the top as well as bottom. It takes much work and also much cloth to make it,but there is scarcely a trimming that looks better than plaiting. A few years ago it was very popular aud may becomo so again.

The narrow velvet ribbon trimmings on dresses are also very popular, and, while not every gown or wrap is trimmed with it, it is seen very often, and it is always pleasiug. It is applied in a variety of designs. In some there are double crosses of it, with the ends turned under and pointed. These crosses are made of narrow velvet, when applied on the yoke or corsage, and of wider for the skirt, aud that naturally makes the cross double the size. shaped designs are also seen and pyramidal rows, with nail head buttons at the ends. But the prettiest way, I think, is where the equidistant rows are sewed around the skirt. One very pretty dress for a young lady was of grass green poplinette. Arouud the skirt were clusters of brown velvet ribbon—eight in the first, five in the second amt^.hree in the third. The waist had a small, round yoke outlined with four equidistant rows of half inch ribbon. Below this the waist was gathered very full to the belt On the belt wen1 sewed three rows, and above it, drawn to a i*int, were three rows. The sleeves and double caps were all ornamented with it The flaring oollar was made of brown velvet

Aside from the seusible gowns with separate waists and coat basques for everyday wear, there are hundreds of variations on the princess shape, many of them draping across in front and fastening at hie left side. These, as a general rule, when for any but middle Aged ladies, are made short walking length, and they are so easy and comfortable that it seems a pity that there is any other shape Of dress worn. And no gown is so graceful. These, with health corsets, would make an ideally perfect gown for any one. But as long as the stores present their instruments of torture in such bewildering array it is no wonder the poor little "comfy" waists are overlooked, for they are made more for use than ornament I saw some corsets tod^y of heavy black satin embroidered with roses and other flowers, all in the most brilliant of colors—pink, blue, green and bright purple, besides yellow. And lace is se^ed around them, and dainty little ribbon bows are put on for still further ornament

There are some of the most magnificent of gowns now displayed for dinners and receptions that I have ever seen, and if the dresses I have mentioned above are neat and sensible these are ev erything possible to get together on the oontrary side. One of them was made of the heavy Lyons tapestry weave of bro cade. The ground was a silvery gray, with a faint suggestion of sage green with enormous figures representing tangled knots of shaded purple ribbon. The waist was of the brocade, cut in pompadour shape in the neck. There was a simulated figaro of royal purple velvet, which formed a sort of stomach er, and this extended also down the front of the skirt to the bottom. It was almost covered with a design of imitation diamonds, emeialds and amethysts, with here and there a glint of gold thread. At the waist line on each side of this was set a mussy little rosette of cream white crepe lisse. All around the neck was a puffed ruche of crepe lisse, made very full and high around the back of the neck. The sleeves were immensely full, but closely puffed, and held in with three large pink roses and their foliage. The sleeves were of the crepe lisse.

One gown suitable for grand dinners and receptions was of very heavy and rich satin duchess in a pale mauve tint, with straggling figures and stripes of directeur green. The back of the skirt was in demitrain, and at each side there was a loosely plaited panel of frosty sage green satin. There were two flounces of old rose point set across the front breadth in a point in front. The Swiss corsage was of dark purple velvet, studded with 12 imitation emerald and diamond buttons. This also was pompadour necked and had a drapery of old rose point, nnd there was a purple velvet stock, with a narrow crepe lisse mffle. The sleeves were of the silk, trimmed richly at the top with lace and silver tissue ribbon. The lower part of the sleeves were of shirred lisse over mauve taffeta.

Purple in all its shades is one of the season's favorite colors. Amethysts are among the fashionable stones now, as they show their various shades of the popular color. Among the real and imitation precious stones this season the favorites are turquoises, malachite, coral, pearls, amethysts, emeralds and rhinestones. Pearls are imitated so clev erly that only an expert can distinguish them.

Among the novelties in minor things one may note the new silk finish skirt linings. These are better and crisper than the rustle percalines. They are of

DINNER AND RECEPTION TOILETS,

fered in all the fancy colors for lining the thin goods, such as grenadines, organdies, chiffons, batistes, etc., where such a lining is necessary. They are preferable to a poor quality of silk.

There are thousands of yokes—round, square and pointed—of dotted swiss, and Dutch yokes, with Irish point in sertions and edgings, all ready to use in making up the summer gowns.

Henriette Rousseau.

The best remedy for rheumatism that has yet been discovered. Mr. D. H. Tyler, ISO W. Main St., Galesburg, Ills., writes: "I have used a good many bottles of Salvation Oil, and think it the best remedy for rheumatism I ever used."

Women as Inventors.

Mrs. Van Leer Kirkman is president of the woman's department of the Tennessee centennial exposition. One portion of her exhibit will be a collection of inventions made by women. Several hundred of these are devices pertaining to horses and wagons. Among them are a reinholder, invented by Miss Fourard of Kalamazoo a sunshade carriage cov er, by Mrs. Luce of New Orleans a sectional horseshoe, by Mary Ponpard of London a horse collar, by Bertha Block of Racine, Wis. an axle, by Carrie Grant of Cambridge port, Mass., and a harness pad, by Miss Cahoon of Newark, N. J. Mrs. Kate M. Dean invented a check rein to keep a horse from throwing his tail over the lines. For this she received a gold medal from the World's fair.

Gan Flint*.

The oldest industry in Britain is still carried on at the village of Brandon, on the borders of Norfolk and Suffolk, and is in a flourishing condition. It is a manufactory of gufl and tinder box flints. It appears that there is no regular flint factory, but the work is done iu the little sheds, often at the back of the townsfolk's cottR»*s.

A perfect cure! Mr. Edward E. Broughton, 140 W. 19th St, New York City, N. Y„ says this: "I hare used several bottles of Dr. Bull'sCough Syrup in my family and find it a perfect cure. I cheerfully recommend it"

After using a 10 cent trial sice of Ely's Cream Balm you will be sure to buy the 50 cent sixe. Cream Balm has no equal in curing catarrh and cold in head. Ask your druggist for it or send 10 cents to us.

ELY BROS-, Warren St, N. Y. City. I suffered from catarrh for three years It got so bed I could not work I used two bottles of Ely's Cream Balm and am entirely well I would sot be without it— A. C. Clarke, Ml Shawmut, Ave., Boston.

GIBA ART STUDENTS

THOSE WHO STUDY PAINTING, SCULP TURE AND MUSIC ABROAD..

Mrs. Frapk LesUe "recenlly returned from a sojourn of nearly two years in Europe. Most of her time was spent in Paris, where she gave a good deal of attention to tbe subject of American girls and women who go abroad to study art a

As the desire to study abroad is an almost universal one among the bright and ambitious girls of this country, asked Mrs. Leslie to give them the benefit of her observations and experience. "Everything depends on the girl,' said Mrs. Leslie. So far as opportunity is concerned, there seems to be no good reason why a student should go farther than Paris to acquire all that may be acquired from instruction in painting or sculpture, in vocal or instrumental mu sic. It is surprising to find how many there are pursuing these branches ac cording to the light that is in them Earnest, intelligent girls and women from every state—one might almost say from every city and town—in the coun try are there, hard at work in the ate liers and the oonservatoriea You see them copying the masterpieces of the Louvre and Luxembourg. You find them at a brilliant entertainment in the American colony at night and next day working from the nude in Julian's studio.

It charmed me to note that the vast majority of American girls who have gone abroad to study do study, and for such as really mean business there is no safer or pleasanter place than Paris. The frivolous and capricious, who have no set purpose in life, will find distractions and temptations enough, to be sure, and that is why I say it all depends on the girl. "Much has been done in late years to make life pleasant in the French capital for Amerioan girl stnden,ts. Dr. Thomas W. Evans built a beautiful home for them in a pleasant part of the city a few years ago, and there is now a movement on foot to establish another home to accommodate a still larger number on the most liberal terms. There are restrictions necessary in the conduct of these institutions that are resented by a certain type of girl. But the demand for accommodation far exceeds the present space, showing that the nature of woman to have a safe retreat and anchorage obtains in Paris as elsewhere. But there are probably ten American girl students living in hoarding houses or apartments in Paris for every one in the homes. Some of the girl bachelor quarters are quite bewitching in their appointments, and by this method girls of decidedly limited means provide themselves with comfortable and exemplary homes. "Two of the most talented girls I met were from the west. Their money sup ply was decidedly limited, and they lived in a little fiat of three rooms without a servant. They were welcome, nevertheless, in some of the most exclusive homes of the American colony and to those of several fine French families whom they had met through a letter of introduction they brought with them. Both were studying under one of the great artists and were reputed by critics and painters alike to possess something resembling genius. "The democracy that obtains among the art students of Paris is of the most pronounced type. They are all hail fellows well met in the studios and pay no attention to differences of race, color or previous condition. At Julian's was a bright colored girl from Boston who evinced remarkable talent She was one of the most advanced scholars in the school for the time she had been studying. It was not surprising that the French students were polite to her because it has long been the custom of the country to treat a colored person with the same consideration as a white. But the example impressed the Americans so that they relaxed their cold shoulder to a marked extent Considering our na tional prejudice against associating with colored people on a footing of equality this was a distinct gain, and as to tbe future Julian was of the opinion that the colored girl would become the best artist in the class.

Mrs. Ayer of Lowell, Mass., recently gave money enough to fit up a home for American young men who go to Paris to study art. It is a most comfortable place and seems to be thoroughly appreciated by the young men of small means who have entered the lists. Excellent meals and rooms are provided at the lowest possible price. The matron is a thrifty Frenchwoman, who makes the place attractive by always having the rooms bright and cheerful. The home has been a great comfort to scores of young men, and Mrs. Ayer is always looking out for their welfare. Such P. place was made necessary by the fact that numbers of adventurous young men reach Paris from our shores each year without sufficient money to meet their tunning expenses. If some provision were not male for them, their suffering would be great. As it is, subscriptions have to be raised each year to send home one or more improvident young fellows who get stranded there. In these cases they are considered lucky to get even a steerage passage, and such a sequel i? liable to dun the romance of a trip abroad. "American students are especially ii favor among the Parisians. They max compete for tbe various prizes on at equality with native students. Tin grand National Academy of Fine Artis open to them, and their finished work always have a prominent {&ce in tlx annual salon, where the new productions of the year are first publicly exhibited. In the nature of things it will be a long time before our country will

TERRJS HAUTE SATURDAY EVENING MALL, APRIL 3, 1897.

Mrs. Frank Leslie Gives the Beralt of Her Observation and Experience—The Opportunity, tbe Cost and the Environment—The Prises.

present adequate advantages to students of art, and the great schools of Paris must draw from here some of their brightest recruits for generations to oome,'' J. A. MACKNIGHT.

SPAIN IS PROSTRATE.

How She Is Beset by External and lnternal Troubles.

f4 [Special OorresDandence.]* MALAGA, Spain, March 17.—Between Cadiz, in the southwest, and Barcelona, in the northeast, lie several Spanish cities which, in view of the present American complications, are sufficiently important for casual mention.

This city of Malaga, best known to us for its wines and raisins, is in about the same decadent condition of them all, except Barcelona, where dwell the enterprising "Yankees of Spain." At the present time Malaga lives mainly on the memory of its greatness, containing very few buildings of importance and swarming with beggars. Much farther north we find Valencia, capital of the rich province of the same name, onoe noted as the seat of Mohammedan learning. It was captured from the Moors by the renowned Cid in the elev enth century and was known then, as now, as the garden spot of Spain.

Between the two last named lies the picturesque port of Alicante, famous for its ancient castle and the view out spread therefrom, its episcopal palace i^s tobacco factories and cathedral, we should diverge from our journey, or rather prolong it to Barcelona, we should find this latter one of the finest cities on the Mediterranean coast of Spain, inhabited by a people strangely at variance with the luxury loving and slow going southerner.

The Spaniards are like the little girl in the nursery book—when they are good, they're "very, very good, but when they're bad they're horrid, There are no brigands here except in the remotest mountains, but the mass of the people are cruelly impoverished. In the midst of a land created for the garden of Europe, capable of producing nearly everything grown in the tropical and temperate zones, the bulk of the Spaniards are yet poverty stricken to the verge of starvation. This will account for the feeling of uncertainty I have alluded to, for if they can't get the means for subsistence by honest labor they are likely to try some other method,

Between Malaga and Granada are the mountains containing the towns famous in the history of the Moorish wars of the decade preceding the discovery of America. Qne of these was Alhama, which was taken by the Spaniards after a terrible battle and its inhabitants put to the sword. So awful was the slaughter that the event has been perpetuated in a Moorish-Spanish song, the refrain of Vhich is, "Ay de mi (woe is me), Alhamnl" This mountain stronghold of the Moors fell in the year 1483, and ten years elapsed before the last of

"tr*.

inr

alhama aftbr the earthquake. the Moors were driven out of Spain, which was in 1492, a year ever memorable to all Americana

I found Alhama almost desolate on my recent visit, for it had been subject to that most awful of earthly visitations, an earthquake. Nearly all its buildings had been thrown down, public hall and churches all but destroyed, and among the ruins the people were wandering about aimlessly, seeking out their lost relatives. Even an enemy of the Spaniards could not entertain feelings toward them other than of pity and commiseration. Their condition was most pitiable, heartrending, and I could but exclaim as I looked upon this scene of suffering, "Ah, woe is me, Alhama!" The losses from siege or capture, saving the dead, can be repaired after the enemy has retreated, but who knows when the next visitation from the earthquake will oocurand render abortive all efforts for reconstruction? Among one group of ruins which I photographed a priest and some sisters of charity were going about administering succor to the wounded and such consolation as they oould afford to the dying. There is little hope for Alhama and no possibility for it to recover its ancient prosperity.

I have mentioned my visit to Alhamain order to present a different phase of life here from what the ordinary traveler sees. What with their rebellious subjects in Cuba and the Philippines and earthquakes at home added to their ever increasing poverty and steady decline as a nation, #be Spaniards are more subjects for pity than of envy. Spain has been a glorious country. Her BODS have written their names high on the monument of fame, but that was in the long buried past Today the country is poverty stricken, decaying, hollow hearted. Although it possesses a sturdy population, a true hearted peasantry, yet its so called higher classes and the nobility are vainglorious and unreliable. It is a strange fact that, while the zeal Spaniard is a very decent sort of man, yet his government has forced him into a position in which he is compelled to pose as the bloodthirsty tyrant and oppress«• of mankind.

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CONTRACTORS. AND PROPERTY OWNERS. Notice Is hereby given, that on the 16th day of February, 189T." the common council of the city of Terre Haute adopted a resolution declaring an existing necessity for the Improvement of Fourth avenue from the east curb line of Third street to the west curb line of Seventh street, by grading, curbing and paving the same, the full width thereof, the sidewalks to be 10 feet wide and paved with gravel screenings next to the property line the width of 6 feet, and curbed with Mansfield sandstone the roadway to be 30 feet wide and paved with screened gravel the said Improvement to be made in all respects In accordance with the general plan of improvement of said city, and according to the plans and specifications ou file In the office of the city engineer, the cost of the said Improvement to be assessed to the abutting property owners and becomes due and colleettble.'lmmediately on approval of the Bnal estimate, unless the property owner shall have previously agreed In writing, to be filed with said plans, to waive all irregularity and illegality of the proceedings and pay his assessments when due.

Sealed proposals will bo received for the construction of said improvement, at the office of the city clerk, on the 6th day of April. lS97r until five (5) o'clock and not thereafter. Each proposal must be accompanied by a bond with good freehold sureties or equivalent security. In the sum of two hundred dollars, liquidated damages, conditioned that the bidder shall duly enter into contract and give bond within fivedavs after the acceptance of his bid for the performance of the work. The city reserves the right to reject any and all bids.

Any property owner objecting to the neces"sucli Impn ing. clerk on the 3d day of April, 1897. and be

slty of jectlons in wrltin

improvement may" file such obat the office of the city

heard with reference thereto at the next regular meeting of the common council thereafter.

CIIAS. II. GOODWIN, City Clerk.

JOHN O. PIETY, Attorney.

JQ-OTICE TO HEIRS, CREDITORS, ETC.

In the matter of the estate of Jesse M. Peterson, deceased. In the Vigo Circuit court. February terra. 189".

Notice is hereby given that Edward Davis, as administrator of the estate of .losse M. Peterson, deceased, has presented and filed his account and vouchers In final settlement of said estate, and that the same will come up for the examination and action of said Circuit, court, on the 12th day of April, 1897, at which time all heirs, creditors and legatees of said estate are required to appear In said court and show cause. If any there bo, why said account and vouchers should not be approved.

Witness the clerk and seal of said Vigo Circuit court, at Terre Haute, Indiana, this 25th day of March, 1897. [SKAT)] DAVID L. WATSON, Clerk.

To the Young Face

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