Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 27, Number 35, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 27 February 1897 — Page 6
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WOMAN'S WORLD.
AN ATTRACTIVE AND AMIABLE CHILD OF THE ABORIGINES.
Housework and Girl Graduates—A Daring
Innovator Rational Dress Decollete
Gowna—Lenten Costumes—The of
the Skirt.
Tekahionwake, the one woman who is ranked among the six great interpreters of Canadian life, stopped in Chicago on hrr 'way to Indianapolis, where she *aa going to read from the folklore Yerses of her own composition.
Her other name is E. Pauline John flon. She is the daughter of Onwansyahon, once the head chief of the Mohawk division of the Iroquois Nation.
Miss Johnson is an amiable appearing descendant of the American aborigines, and it takes a careful study of the square chin, high cheek bones and dark hair to convince the casual observer that she really is of Indian stock, a genuine Mohawk woman, who can trace her ancestry among the chiefs of her people long before the colonial wars.
She will tell you how, because the Iroquois, joined King George's forces against Washington, a tract of the choicest land in Canada was granted to them. Then she will explain how, four generations ago, her ancestors were converted to Christianity, and the boy baby of the family was given the un-Indianlike name Jacob Johnson how usage legalized that name and enabled the particular family to claim it in addition to their Indian patronymic.
Miss Johnson wears Frenchy looking gowns and neatly fitting shoes and gloves. She doesn't powder her face nor rouge hor lips, but she curls her front hair and manicures her nails. In fact, she does pretty much everything that a real Indian would not be expected to do
Ki
1 KKAHIONWAKE.
and leaves undone everything that one would expect of a child of the Iroquois. And she talks like a Vassar graduate, only with a trifle more naivete. "If yon don't want to hear about the history nf my people, what did you come to see me forP'^MrtMigdfiaawtw^ when a were ninete^Ar ,, iMtaertrV™1
stranoes dronmir "My my hoai
ceIlt?rs' H"mJ
to tJio reading public. Myelin I am only a Mohawk with 11 ion to show that even on Indian
can do hi mcthing in tlio world. "I'm rot what you call an educated woman—'hi.t is, I've never been in college. & tutors wero mi Indian nurse, who tunriit mo our legends and folklore, and tui I ,lish governess, who filled me with ve. h, which I hated. I spent my cmJdlux 1. notwithstanding the remou-
my parents, in reading and mul writing. -son just sang themselves in until I had to write them.
Then, of course, I wanted to read them to poop! That is nil there is to toll. "Thr the kindness of Lord and Lady A -dmi I went three years ago to Engl."
1. and
Miss
silver
tliero brought out'The
White :.:r.puin,' my first book of verses. (old Andrew Laug, the critic, that II -d to get John Lane to publish them nio. He discouraged me by saying: 'i never will succeed. If you will wvito poetry, confine yourself to nirtga7.il stuff.' But the John Lane com pan" did publish my book for all the gi«' it critic's opinion. "Sir Frederick Leighton was kind enough to be interested in me and was the onlv while person I have ever found who literatui
rsed in our traditions and
iohnson has a collection Of In•which would almost cause an to turn preen with envy. !ivc costume, which she someurswhen reciting, glitters with
dian rel ethnolofi llov n. times \v
ornaments
and beads hundreds of
years old. Dangling at her girdle there "is an
American
Sioux scalp, taken at
Fort Met.'loud by a Canadian Blood Indian, while the necklace of hears' claws which encircles her brown throat has a history almost as thrilling.—Chicago Tribune.
Housework and Girl Graduates. In these days, when so many young women
look
forward to a career, the un
obtrusive sphere of the home is often overlooked. Passing by all that might, from the standpoint of sentiment of filial piety, be said in favor of the old fashioned and at present, much despised occupation of housework, let us look at it from a purely business point of view.
Here is a family iu moderate circumstances. living in aNew England country town. The oldest daughter, a graduate of the high school, has a position as cashier iu the leading dry goods store of tho place at a salary of $10 a week. Her duties occupy her six days in the week from 8 in the morning till 6 in tiy afternoon, and two evenings until 9 o'clock. Only her Sundays and four evenings in each week ait? available for recreation, church work, family«intnrocmrse. the interchanges of social life and for self culture.
As she has no board to pay, her in come of $500 enables her to dress well, and, though she spends money freely, she has already a nice little sum laid by in the savins* bank. Meantime hex mother, with the aid of an indifferent
girl, to whom she pays 8.60 a week, and whose board and waste amount to as much more, cares for the household, sending out the washing and ironing.
Suppose the daughter should give up her position in the store in order to help at home, having persuaded her mother to dismiss the maid of all work and to pay her what would thus be saved— namely,
$7
a week.
Her duties in this capacity, shared by her mother, as in the past-—-for in family of seven one pair of hands cannot well do everything—would leave her free for at least three hours every afternoon. She would also have all her even ings, and as a rule one or two mornings in each week she would find an hour or more at her own disposal. In these leisure hours she would find time for her own sewing, including dressmaking, and thus would be able to save the amount of her dressmaker's bills—probably $60 in the course of the year. There would still be ample time for study and for social duties as well as for benevolent and charitable work.
All
told, her income above her expenses would be less than at present by about $100, and, if she were earning money in order to aid in the support of the family, this sum would be worth considering. But under the circumstances she might well regard her loss in dollars and cents as more than overbalanced by the gain in freedom from confining hours and in leisure for the cultivation of her mind and for efforts in behalf of others.
Nor would the advantage be all on one side. The mother, relieved of the worry of inefficient time serving "help" by the intelligent, interested service of her daughter, would grow young again in the delightful companionship and sympathy of the lively, loving girl.
It is not claimed that housework is as remunerative as some other employments, nor that the position of a "domestic" is suited to the taste or to the social standing of the average American girl, but where remunerative employment is sought, as it so often is, not from necessity, but in accordance with the enterprising fashion of the day, some such business arrangement as has been outlined, which has its parallel in at least a few homes, gratifies the spirit of independence while it fosters the domes tic taste and knits together the members of the family in the bonds of mutual helpfulness.—New York Ledger.
A Daring Innovator.
ANew Hampshire woman has accomplished the feat somewhat difficult nowadays—of doing something which no woman, so far as known, has ever done before. This daring innovator is Mrs. Marilla Marks Bicker, whose home, when she is not traveling in Europe, living in California or practicing law before the supreme court at Washington, is in Dover, and the basis of the present claim to originality which her friends make for her is the fact that she has entfred a serious application for the
States minister to the
United States""fl# Colombia. Nobody goes quite so far as to &*^ihat she will probably get the place, bii^fcis asserted that she has the support jl both the New
Hampshire senators ai* th»* b*»r candidacy will be warmly ady^a^cd by woman suffrage clubs and timilar organizations all over the country.
Mrs. Ricker was born at Durham in 1840. She was married in 1868 and has been a widow for 27 years. She studied law in tho offices of Albert G. Riddle and Arthur B. Williams. In 1890, after a hard fight, she won admission to the New Hampshire bar. Mrs. Ricker has long been prominently identified with the woman suffrage movement, and since 1870 has often taken the stump for the candidates of tho Republican party, in which she is a fervent believer,
A iocent, not too courteous, interviewer says: "She is a tall, gaunt woman, rather masculine in her make up her features are strong and marked, a long, straight nose and closely cropped hair. She looks to be 50 or thereabout, though she is nearer 60. She was dressed becomingly in a close fitting gown of dark material, adorned with largo flowers and trimmed with lace. She speaks very quietly and with few gestures." So far as has developed, there is nothing in the statutes to prevent a woman from holding a diplomatic position, and except for the extreme novelty of the idea, perhaps it would be hard to find any insuperable objections to the gratification of Mrs. Ricker's ambition.—New York Times.
Kational Dress.
For a young baby iu cold weather two garments are needed between tho underskirt and the dress. Those should be made, one of Jaeger white stockinet and the other of silk warped flannel. Neither one should be more than long enough to cover the feet. These materials ait1 so beautiful that they will require no embroidery or trimming. Simple feather stitching will be sufficient to render both garments fit for a princess, and yet they will not cost, as much and will be more durable than the tjaual long, heavily embroidered flannel skirt and the longer, much betrimmed cambric abomination called an overskirt. Properly apparaled in the silk and woolen clothing, a baby has every garment as soft aud warm as his own delicate flesh, and cannot be irritated or hampered, by his dress at least.
Silk
warped
china
flannel skirts and white
silk
dresses have an extravagant
sound aud undoubtedly seem quite beyond the purse of many who yet really spend on garments that are at once inartistic and unhcalthful double the amount that would be needed to purchase these article*. The layette usnah., provided for a child is a barbarism. It is elaborate, vet not beaut
fiil:
expen
sive, but not useful troublesome to make and keep in repair, and yet not comfortable for the wearer.
White china silk costs from 60 tea*** to $1 a yard. The dress, like the flaniwl undergarments, may be made entirely plain, and, at most, should net be more than 40 inches long. The xpeu*!af itunb r. dress is not more thtui h-vlf that
TERRE HAUTE SATURDAY ETEKLNQ MAIL, FEBRUARY 27, 1897.
of the ordinary hideous overembroidered
gown, which beyond home skill to make or home talent to launder.—TT»r per Bazar.
Decollete Gowns.
In many things New York society is showing a reaction from the exaggerated display of a few years ago. At afternoon receptions now, writes Mrs. Welch, decollete dress worn by the recemr»... is rarely seen, the sensible fashion of reserving evening drt*^ ±cr evening hours having at last been appreciated and adopted. Luncheons, too, even festal luncheons, are less elaborate than formerly. In many New York homes the dining room is open for the hour between 1 and 2, and the family goes in at will, with a friend who may have dropped in, to nibble a sandwich or bit of cold joint or similar something that may stand without harm, tea or chocolate being served hot as needed. This is a most informal meal, often partaken of standing and bonneted. Invitation luncheons, too, are not, in the best houses, occasions for elaborate display, which is a decided contrast to quite recent custom.
It is not three years ago that an English peeress shocked a company assembled in her honor at one of the aristocratic hom$s on Washington square by driving up at 1 o'clock in a shopping gown, with an English walking hat. It was as great a shock to her to find herself ushered into a drawing room, darkened from the daylight and softly radiant with wax lights, heavy with the perfume of exotics and filled with women in silks and laces, the flashing of jewels alternating with the flutter of costly fans held in gloved hands.
High oorsages marked the only difference from ballroom gowns. The luncheon counted ten courses and was two hours in being served. The guest was frankly amazed and said so in explanation of her own shortcoming in the way of toilet. These evening functions at midday are not now considered good form.
Lenten Costumes.
Interest is for the moment centered upon the materials appropriate for the coming Lenten season, gowns for this period having now come to be considered an essential part of the wardrobe of a fashionable woman. Black this year will be largely employed, and a more dressy effect is given than is usual to these somber gowns, in the way of additions to the bodice portions of girdles, deep ceintures, bolero jackets, decorated revers, vests and flaring medici collars. Black, however, will not prevail to the exclusion of soft fawn color and nun's gray, which by their delicate neutral tones commend themsel%s particularly to use for these gowns, violets almost invariably give a refined touch of color to these quaint costumes, either on the bonnet or gown or both. Pretty little mouchoir muffs of lace or chiffon, velvet and violets accompany elegant tailor made suits.
A ladylike and appropriate Lenten costume just being made at a fashionable city establishment is of soft of he ha a
seven gored skirt lia*\"
a
v?°!e,
"olrot bwlviu,
also silk lined, and trimmed with large mother of pearl buttons. The long, close sleeves tenuinato in deep points on the top of the hand, the points showing the violet lining. At the top is a small velvet puff. The very large standing collar is cut in points lined with violet and trimmed inside with a soft, falling frill of chiffon. The suede felt hat is decorated with satin ribbon, chiffon and Parma violets, and the mouchoir muff of velvet has trimmings to match. The costume as a whole is a beautiful Lenten poem.—New York Post.
The Back of the Skirt.
Shirred
breadths and flat or box plaits
have in a groat, degree replaced the godet effects at the back of dress skirts. In many instances braiding or a pretty vine passementerie simulating braiding is carried from the skirt hem upward, not only on the front and sides, but frequently, on new French gowns, at the back, tapering as it goes. In nearly every ease, notwithstanding all that we hear of tho absence of stiff interlinings, the back and sides of these skirts are thoroughly well set out from the figure, and not a few of the gowns are so arranged that French dressmakers call them "standing gowns," and certainly some of the moderately spreading, elaborately trimmed models would not be improved by a sitting position of its wearer. There arc very many women who never wear their walking costumes in the house any more than they would their robes of ceremony for the
don promenade, a wise rule, but a gown in which one cannot comfortably sit is rather a trial, and the knowledge that the appearance of one's dress is spoiled by this decidedly restful position is disagreeable to think of let alone endure.
Chicago Times-Herald.
A woman in Dahlonega, Ga., whose husband died a year ago, leaving her with nine children to support, is running her farm at a profit and is putting money in the bank. She thinks that many other fanners could do the same if they worked intelligently and spent :ees money for liquor and tobacco.
Imitating marquetry is anew kind of work in art which is being done by women in England, and the Princess of Wales has done much to make it popular. It is a kind of painting which admits cf a polish and is a very perfect imitation of mother erf pearl.
The Pacific Coast Woman's Press as sociation is preparing to locate in per manent headquarters and has under
con
sideration tlio ejection of a woman'sclub building in San Francisco to cost not less than $100,000.
Perfumed warming pans are the latest form that British hospitality has taken The bostti* finds out the tastes of guests and employs lily, rose, beliotrt/t» or new meww Iwty accordingly.
ISSIIiilSil
PRINCESS LETITIA.
Italian Grandniece of the Great Xapoleon.
Princess Letitia of Savoy—Napoleonic Duchess of Aosta—is now 80 years old and has what is in feminine eyes the distinction of being one of the best dressed women at the Italian oouri. As the only daughter of Princess Clotilde of Italy and Prince Jerome Napoleon, this lady has a good right to her headstrong nature. She is the leader of the brilliant Italian court established at Turin, the capital of Lombardy, where I Up Up UP"tO"date is located the greatest military oamp in Italy, and her circles are attended by the elite of society of the old kingdom
PRINCESS LETITIA.
of Savov and the chief soldiers of the Italian king. With the latter the princess is in high favor on account of her esprit and unconventional manner—attributes rare at the court of Rome. She was the pioneer wheelwoman at the Italian court—an accomplishment once viewed there with much disfavor as being unwomanly. But this enthusiastic royal cyclist cared naught for that, and has since convinced Queen Margherita herself of the delights of a sport whioh is now practiced so assiduously in every court circle in Europe. She is an ardent amateur photographer and is very fond of taking pictures of her only child, Prince Humbert, count of Salamis.
She was on the point of marrying her cousin, the present young Duke of Aosta. when suddenly his father, who may or may not have been aware of his son's sentiments, offered himself and was accepted by tho princess, who is exceedingly ambitious and who believed at the time that she had a better chance of becoming queen of Italy by marrying the father than by marrying the son. The wedding took place and created siderable amount of talk time, not only by reason of|W^
bride had
Iac'
jjj-r'*"r-0'
that the
handsome son for
the in -^»rously ugly father, but also *^'ase the latter was her mother's brother—that is to say, her uncle. The union was short lived. Today the duchess darkness, her lar^e eyes are black, and she possesses a superb figure. She resents the restrictions of etiquette, is addicted to flirting to an outrageous extent and is a continual source of dismay and anxiety to her uncle and brother-in-law, King Humbert.—New York Tribune.
Mixed as to Definitions.
Hungry Higgins—Wot I You dunno wot a miser is? A miser is a man that denies hisself the necessaries of life when he has the money to buy 'em.
Weary Watkins—Oh, I have met some of them fellers. But I t'ought they called tlieirselves prohibitionists.—Indian apolis Journal.
The verbena is indicative of sensibility. This planr= is said by some naturalists to display almost animate reason in choosing its habitat.
From New York to Apia, via San Pranoisco, requires 28 days
These complaints are due to imperfect nutrition. The digestive and blood-making onrans fail to extract the needed nounsh ment from the food, and the liver is too sluggish to cleanse the blood of bilious impurities. The entire constitution becomes weak and -poisoned.
The only perfect antidote for this state of things is Dr. Pierce's Golden Medical Discovery. It gives power to the digestive and nutritive organs to make an ahundam* of Dure, rich, highly vitalized blood, which permeates the whole system with the
Addrere W.
Beauty is
which captia strongest natures.
A woman's personal attractiveness
is the weapon with which she conquers her world. Almost every woman believes that she possesses at least some one attractive feature and strives to make the most of that. But mere regularity of feature is not the most attractive form of beauty.
Mankind is more influenced by the ongn. Slowing vitality of perfect health. A classic cast of countenance will not make a woman attractive and captivating, if she is pale, thin weak and nervous, or has a pimply complexion or unwholesome breath.
O'NEIL & SUTPHEN
sw55*"
ness of purity the beauty of womanly vigor and animation. It creates solid, healthy flesh and natural color clears the complexion dutpeU wrinkles- rounds out the form and imbues the whole physique with the irresistible natural magnetism of perfect health.
Miss Talis Faith, Mclean Co., Ky., writes: "After sufering jorartong linjre'7 disease. 1 was advised tGtp-pr.PwTccs took seven bottle# of the Golden Medi Pisi"
r'?ry*
and dm tome, iwofoj qa poinds. I« wbST- I 5 My 1 th that I o* dues. I roc for the while Jakin
and •Favorite Prescription
I took seven and .. Life is now no longer a tardea --Mauds. A year ago I weighed praise Dr. Piercev» ta «ne» feel better than ever very mach impaired, and I «e« deal toyoor wooderhu meat-c-.-e they cared my life. I thank ice which to# no kindly gave we our medicine*."
REPAIRING
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