Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 26, Number 42, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 11 April 1896 — Page 2

BAB'S LETTER.

{Published, 1890, by the Bok Syndicate Press New York.]

NEW YOBK, April 9,1806.

There was no doabt about it. She was an artist in dressmaking. But, unfortunately for the rest of the world, she had, in some way or another, inherited millions, so that she was not a dressmaker, and could only give her friends advice. Most of them listened, and refused to accept it. I am among the few who appreciate her. :So, when I said white," she looked at me and answered, On you? With your pale face? Never, unless you have it in some soft, woolen stuff, which will seem to drape you, and make soft folds, forcing the white to seem caressing, whereas, if it were in silk or satin, you would appear like frightened corpse, chasing around in search of your past sins. Women don't consider fabrics enough they seem to think that if they get a color that is becoming, all is attained and yet, take a stout woman, and put her in black satin—she looks three times her 196 pounds. Put her in black cashmere, or black cloth, properly made, and you speak of her as plump, and wonder that anybody ever called her fat. "Then there is blue—people have an idea that every young girl can wear it. It makes the dainty blonde maiden, who ought to look like one of Wacteau's young women, and they are, always excepting their waists, perfect representatives of health, look like a frozen lady, a lady who might have been picked up at the north pole. Here there is no question of fabric pale blue belongs exclusively to the brunette. It has a curious way, even if the brunette has a sallow skin, of making that skin look less sallow and more olive. Pink, the veritable sweet rose color, fades when it is put on a brunette. From the color standpoint, she is too strong for it, while on the blonde, it retains all its own beauty, makes her cheeks glow, brings out the gold of her hair, while the blue of her eyes, by contrast, match the June sky. You are the type that want red—brilliant, glowing red. Not crimson, not purplish red, but the clear, bright red that is always the envy of the Quakeress. A bit of it in your hat makes your eyes brighter, makes your dull hair glossier and sheds, unconsciously, a shadow of itself on your pale cheeks. The average woman doesn't value red as she should. There ought to be a set of red rosett-es in the chest of drawers in every woman's dressing-room, for there always comes a day when she needs them.

ABOUT BLACK GOWNS.

Black*' Black, like white, is the refuge of the afflicted, and yet, how smart a black tailor-made gown is! How elegant a black velvet dinner dress is! And how beautiful a black tulle, spangled with gold becomes when it is worn by the belle of the ball! I have never been able to agree with the elder Worth in his dislike of black. He claimed that black in bringing out beauties also brought out defects, and that elderly women, who wore it, simply intensified their lack of youth and the number of their wrinkles. "Oh, yes I remember very well when you wrote and asked him to send you a black dinner dress. And there arrived a black satin, elaborate with rosettes and trimmings, that shaded from rose pink to deep magenta. And you wept. And wept bitterly. And wore the frock but once, and felt the night you wore it that, if it had been a rippling stream, near some town, you would have been damped by all those who had to endure it. Then you did a very wise thing. You had all the trimming taken off, and cast the bodice, garish with crimson, to one side. There was made for you a black broadcloth traip, which contrasted magnificently with the satin sides and front, and to go with this there was a bodice partly of broadcloth and partly of satin, with sleeves of satin, crossed by bands of jet just such a sleeve as Marguerite of Valois wore. There Worth made one of his mistakes. Black is becoming to some women, but unfortunately, early in his working days,* this artist in dressmaking saw what is known .as 'the best black silk' of an American woman, and he shuddered. It was coarse of grain, and scaut of skirt it was fitted so that the lack of bust was conspicuous, and the sleeves were so tight that an easy movement of either arm was impossible. He told me this himself, so I never blamed him for not wanting to send black dresses to American women. But, remember always what I say, that, whether you are young or old, slender or stout,

THKKK AUK WOSTDKIiFUL I'OSSIBtMTIRS in black, provided always you choose the right fabric and then dispose of your material properly. I remember once when I was in a fashionable tailor shop I met Mrs. Embonpoint, who is a great friend of mine she said: 'Oh, my dear, aren't these tailormade gowns flue! These perfectly simple gowns mean so much to the women who are inclined to le stout.' And I looked at her with dismay. The woman who had made her stays pulled her in at the waist ,and so forced the extra flesh to go above .and below the waist line in away that was not artistic, aud. although the tailor did not want to do it, she insisted on having a plain, close-fitting skirt and an equally plain bodice. Aud the result? Well, the result was that all the fat was brought out to advantage, to doubtful advantage, where few folds of the material might have hid It. and betweeu stay maker and her own lack of artistic dressing, Mrs. Embonpoint looked more like the minute glass with which I time my eggs at breakfast., an a well-shaped woman. And, my dear, with this she was going to wear one of those new straw hats wreathed with roso& And nature gave her along nose'

Iftl po Wi Vh

You know one of those poke-over hats, worn by a woman with along nose, makes her look Jike the essence of curiosity in feminine form. A hat tilted way over the face has no reason for existence but it. is for the girl with the over-high forehead, or the tip-tilted nose, and every type should let it severely alone!"

I was determined to interrupt her. She had been talking entirely too long, so I thought I would snub her by saying, "Did yon see that, in the excavations about the Sphinx, they think they have found a cap that was originally intended to be on her head?®

She simply answered, Nouscttslst The Sphinx is entirely too feminine to have worn such a tiling MI that described. I have often wondered myself

AIHHT TIME KOYmA

WOSTKX.

*'We hear about the sacred bin) and the sacred flower as worn on their heads, but new about hata. Now, what did they do? Oh) each one go out in the burning sun under an umbrella, or did she stay at home and have everything come to her? The women must have had something to the way of headgear, for with this sum* mer's fashions in view I am more than

ever convinced that Eve made herself a bonnet of violets and tied it on with ribbon grass, so that it was quite in harmony with her costume of draped fig leaves fringed with delicate ferns. How heavy the wreaths are this year! They quite come up to the ones that our grandmothers used to talk about. Ultra-fash-ionable girls are assuming for evening wear the historical and poetical wreath of roses, but I don't advise it. If, by some mischance, it gets a little one side, the wearer has the most depraved look imaginable. Here, on Decoration Day, they invariably put a wreath on George Washington, and after seeing how George looks in a wreath, I believe all those dreadful stories that are told about him down in Virginia, and am quite certain* George used, occasionally, to go on a little tear. But, speaking of the coming things—there were two things here concerning women that struck Yvette Guilbert. One was the lack of care given to the shoes worn by the American woman their unpolished look, and the other was her crushed or ragged veil and her lack of taste in choosing it. Yvette, being an artist in dress, failed to see the beauty (?), even in Brussels net, of a spider on the tip of a woman's nose and she also failed to see the beauty of a very thin veil, put on before the bonnet, and flattening the hair down, so that it had a plastered look.

ON THE WEARING OF VEILS. -v I Our women are not dainty about veils. They wear ragged ones only too often, and when they possess dainty ones they don't arrange them well. The veil is essentially an expression of coquetry—half concealing, half revealing. "If one has passed the age when one's neck is round, and white and firm, like a pillar, then a veil is a great friend, since it can be drawn in soft folds to hide the throat, that would otherwise suggest that of an old chicken. If you are pale, a veil of cream white can be selected, and will cast a shade on your skin that will give it less the appearance of death than it has generally. A Frenchwoman has a veil suited, not only to each style of hat, to each hour of the day, to each physical condition, and also, strange as it may seem, to each mental condition. She doesn't pray in cream lace, wrought with rosebuds or butterflies, nor does she go to awedding in black Brussels, with funereal feathers wrought out upon it. Suitability is the keynote in her harmony of dress. If her wrist is large, none of her jewels are set in the form of bracelets, and she argues well that if her ears are small and wellshaped they need no jewels to evoke admiration for them 'and that if they are large and red, attention should not be called to them by the flash of the diamond or the glow of the ruby.

IF SHE 18 SHORT WAI8TED,

her belt is narrow, and drawn to a point in front. If she is longer waisted than fashion demands, her belt is wide, after the fashion of the First Empire. She does not, like the English and American women, accept the fashion as given by the dressmaker, or the milliner, and wear it like one of a numerous flock, dressed alike, but she adapts it to herself, taking off here that which will lessen her grace, putting on there that which will add to her grace, and making the original study an individual one, only to be recognized by its good points. You never saw a Frenchwoman shove her veil above her lips to eat anything she goes to,the 'jjdfcubie of removing it, for, with it raisea that way, she knows that even the most aristocratic, she who had the bluest blood in the Saint Germain, would have an air of vulgarity, such an air as only attaches itself to the boy of the street. We have an English word that suits it well—at least, I don't think it is English, I think it is American slang—she who raises her veil just on a line with her nose looks 'tough.' It is a nasty word, but it expresses the appearance, and even slang is permissible when the language itself does not fully tell all that one means."

Here I interrupted her again, and asked her if she had heard ABOUT THE NEW DINNERS, F, those where you got a card with a riddle written on it, and whoever had the card with the answer took you out.

She said, "No, I haven't and I consider it very stupid. In the first place, conundrums belong to the nursery. Civilized people have enough mental work to do without taking up such nonsense. Another thing, most people are tired of the so-called intellectuality. Many of the dishes, at both dinners and luncheons, are mysteries enough, without ringing in any beyond these material guesses. Another thing, who wants to dine off of one's brains? One's own brains? Whenever I consider that a woman has asked me to dinner because she thinks I am bright, and will help her entertain, I either stay at home, or else, when I get there, I enjoy myself by being exceptionally stupid. If a hostess wants entertainment furnished to her guests, let her hire those people who make a profession of it. There is no man for whom I have so much contempt as that one who becomes, in a way, the fool for the party. This type is always wonderfully versatile. He can rattle off the last new song, tell the last new story, dress his thumb upinahankerchief to imitate some great personage, make himself look like an old woman with the assistance of the same handkerchief: in fact, make a clown of himself, without getting a clown's wages. am told that occasionally these men marry. My sympathies go out to their wives, for surely they could not have known what they were doing when they swore to honor a versatile man. The versatile man is an intellectual jack-of-all trades—he is master of none. And I can imagine that at home, having a bad stomach because of the numerous Indigestible dinners he has eaten, being tired out because he has exerted himself so much, he is probably peevish, and surely anything but pleasant to live with. What a very little after all we know about the people we meet in the social world. How many of them are worth consideration? How many of them are to be dreaded?"

Just here, I interrupted again, and mid: "There are some who ought to wear on the breast a sign-saying 'Beware.1" THK FORWARD OLD MAX AT THE DIXNKR.

I would put this, first of all, on the old man who claims a right to kiss yon because he knew your mother before she was married.

I would pat It on the woman who never says anything that isn't complimentary— for who knows what she may say when distance lends enchantment to the view?

I would put It on the woman who wants a card to my dressmaker—Idoubthercmedit. I would put it on the man who snubs up his wife when he thinks nobody is listenlug—the chances are that, ten to one. be fit a brute at heart.

I would put it on the woman who is the

Pill®

president, secretary or treasurer of innumerable societies, but who forgets whether it is her second or third boy who is down with the measles.

I would put it on the people who talk too much and say nothing. Goodness gracious! Now, you and I are pretty old friends, but it is rather mean in you to suggest, even in fun, that the Last reason gives you an excuse for pinning it on

BAB.

Some Alluring Deception*.

In (me of Marlitt's German romances there is a clever young widow who fools her men admirers in the matter of her "simple dressing." She wears white muslin gowns that are vastly beooming and seem alluringly modest and inexpensive. Only her seamstress, who hems the yards and yards of tiny lace trimmed ruffles, and her tire woman, who spends hours at the ironing table "doing up" the billows of flimsy fabric, that must be fresh and unrumpled twice a day, only these—and other women— know no wardrobe could be devised more expensive and more difficult to keep in order than one whioh demands perennial, presentable and dainty muslin gowns.

In thesamo list of alluring deceptions must be classcd the present "plain skirt" ordered by fashion. It is plain in one sense alone—that of having no trimming. In all others its elaboration,.is maddening. To cut, line and hang one of these ripple skirts requires great dkili. The first requirements are a pattern per fectly cut, a lining as exactly basted as the outside, the two laid together seam to seam and held withont an iota of "draw" or "pucker," the whole then hung from the hips with perfect smoothness. s*'

When alt this is done, However, the worst remains—the slope on the lower edge. Look at the majority of skirts at this cruoial part, and it will be seen how few achieve suocess. It is a "dip" here and a "bitch" there on nearly all, with waves and billows pursuing their chaotic way between. The front breadth has an inelegant tendency to poke out directly in the oenter, an evil whioh the amateur dressmaker acoepts and the tailor attempts to lessen by putting two or three featherbone reeds from seam to seam at the foot and about six inches apart. Nothing short of the most expert make prevents this ski/t from swinging about the^imkles in a very una a

The fashion is an abomination, tbe greater because it poses as simple and desirable. Its cost, too, and comfort are as delusive as its design. The perfectly fashionable skirt is supposed to take a dozen yards of silk width material and a corresponding amount of lining and haircloth stiffening, and it weighs from three to six pounds, according to tbe heaviness of goods. This weight is intolerable to many women who insist on wearing it becanse it is the fashion. Are we evor to be "advanced" enough to be superior to the dictates of fashion when her commands necessitate such exaggerated and comfortless garments?— New York Times.

A Literary Critic on Sleeves. As to sleeves, the fashions come slowly up this way, and do not seem to be settled by universal woman's suffrage. For tbe majority of women are not tall and shapely, and only the shapely and the toll can wear with decorum sleeves whioh make every woman under 5 feet S look at least as broad as she is long. On bicycles short ladies so olad are inleed unlovely objects, not to mention trie resistandk wmch such sleeves oppose to tfae wind. Why women to whom they ate grossly unbecoming—tbe vast majority—submit to the tyranny of these sleeves, I knbw not. Who would be free themselves must use the scissors if dressmakers won't. Friends of the enfranchisement of women should reflect on thte topic, wbieh offers arguments to th« Jglfijpgman's Magarine.

i. m— i. ii ii

\... MamiHoK Women.

At the Republican primary election last month in idassillon, O., 200 women voted. Their efforts were rewarded by the election of Mrs. Ella O. Shoemaker on the school board by a majority of 88. This is the largest vote ever polled by women in Massillon. Mrs. Shoemaker is vice president of tbe Equal Bights association. Mrs. K. B. Foke is president of the association and Miss E. L. Folger recording secretary.

For Her Sick

DORI*

Almost everybody knows that catnip is often given to cats that are indisposed. A 5-year-old little girl, in making up a story about the picture of a sick dog in a book at which she was looking the other day, suited the remedy to the patient by saying that he o^ght to have some "dognipl"—Exchange.

Walter's W*y.

Little Walter had two apples, for his sister Alioe and himself to take to school. He kept the larger one and gave bis sister tbe other, saying, "Yon know you were born before I was, and have had lots store things."—Youth's Companion.

The North India M. E. conference has followed the lead of the Ohio and Fuohau, China, conferences, and has elected two women—Mrs. E. W. J^arker and Mrs. J. C. Butcher—as lay delegates to the general conference.

ry Rheumatism Cured In 3 Days.

Morton L. Hill, of Lebanon. M. says "My wife had Inflammatory Rheumatism in every muscle and Jdnt, her suffering was terrible and her body and face were swollen beyond recognition nad been in bed for six

weeks and bad eight physfclans bat received no benefit until she tnea the MYSTIC CURE FOR RHEUMATISM. It gave immediate relief and she was able to walk about in three days. lam sure it saved her life." Bold by Jacob Banr. Cook. Bell A Black, and all drug' gists, Terre Haute.

Save Tour Life

By using "N«w GR*AT SOUTH A*micax KIDMCM." This new remedy Is a great surprise on account of its exceeding promptness in relieving pain In the Kidneys, Bladder and Back in male or female. It relieves retention of water, and pain In pasting it almost Immediately. Save yourselves by using this marvelous cure. Its use will prevent fatal consequences in almost all cases by Its great alterative and heallh by all druggists in Terre Hai

Tha Clnb Movement. gS§

Ellen M. Henrotin contritrafes

an interesting sketch of "The General Federation of Women's Clubs" to Tbe Review of Reviews. Tbe club movement among American women began about 40 years ago. Women realised that the progress of industry and art threatened to wrest from them the opportunity of earning a livelihood because they were not fitted in mind and body to oope successfully with the revolutionized conditions, and they began to reach vaguely for some educational force outside the club. Here study soon ceased to satisfy, and practical work was undertaken. By a process of gradual evolution the clubs enlarged their scope until the club calendar covered civics, economics, reform and education. In addition the financial element has crept in. Many of the women's clubs are almost business corporations, so large is their income and so important their financial management. The responsibility of handling money for others is an excellent training for women. The general federation is the latest development of the great movement for voluntary association.

•*T- ...

yfo

i. Forty Resolute Women.

According to accounts in western newspapers, No Man's Land, once the refuge of criminals in the southwest, because none of the surrounding states or territorial courts had jurisdiction over it, has been changed into a rich agricultural and stock country, largely through the work of 40 resolute women, who are now in charge of the 38 publio schools of Beaver county. Seven of these young women teachers met in Beaver City recently and organized the Panhandle Cattle company, intending to invest their surplus earnings from teaching in the cattle business. Probably the 40 yonng women in that territory will join in this enterprise. Over 80 of them have taken claims of 160 acres each on tbe Beaver river, and will till the soil in summer and teach in winter. They receive $80 per month for teaching a six months'term,

A Brilliant Record.

Miss Louise Aldrich-Blake of London has a brilliant record. Last year she took her M. D., and this year she has passed a successful examination, qualifying her for the degree of master of surgery, which no woman in England hitherto has gained. Five young women in London have recently bxjome full fledged bachelors of surgery. 3.

A Simple Experiment In Freeilng. Pour a little water on a board under a hot stove, then mix in a tiny cup a quantity of ice and salt, stir it thor oughly and place it on the board in the Water. The freezing process will very shortly begin. The theory is the rapid evaporation caused by the heat. 4g.

Tbe M. E. church of Upland, Pa., has elected four women as stewards. They will, by virtue of their office, be entitled to 6ifc as members of the next quarterly conference.

SHALLER THAN USUAL

—lilliputian, in fact, are Doctor Pierce's Pleasant Pellets. Dr. R. V. Pierce, Chief Consulting Physician to the Invalids' Hotel and Surgical Institute, of Buffalo, N. Y., was the first to introduce a L,ittle PiU to the America® people. For all laxative and cathartic purposes these sugar-coated

"Pellets" are superior in a great many ways to all mineral waters, sedlitz powders, salts, castor oil, frnit syrups, laxative teas, and other purgative compounds. .Made of concentrated vegetable ingredients, they act in a mild, natural way. Their secondary effect is to keep the liver active and the bowels regular, not to further constipate, as is the case with other pills. They don't interfere in the least with the diet, habits or occupation, and produce no pain, griping or shock to the system.

Dr. Pierce's Pleasant Pellets cure biliousness, sick and bilious headache, dizziness, costiveness, or constipation, sour stomach, loss of appetite, coated tongue, indigestion, or dyspepsia, Smndy belchings, heart-burn," pain and distress after eating, and kindred derangements of the liver, stomach and bowels, luiese "Pellets are easily dissolved in the stomach and absorbed into the blood, stimulating a flow of bile from the liver, and arousing to activity all the glandular secretions. Thus they act in nature's own way. In proof of their superior excellence, it can be truthfully said, that they are always adopted as a household remedy after the first trial. Put up in glass vials, therefore always fresh and reliable.

One little Pellet" is a laxative, two are mildly cathartic. As a "dinner pill," to

Sinner.

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They are tiny, sugar-coated granules any child will readily take them. Once used, .always in favar.

Acoept no substitute that may be recommended to be "just as good." It may be better for the dealer, because of

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ELY'S

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Call and see us.

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Office 30 South Sixth St.

J. H. C. Royse, President. M. S. Durham, Vice President Charles Whitcomb, Secretary.

VandaliaPennsylvania

NEWYORK

The only line runnfng FOUR (.4) DAILY TRAINS TO THE EAST on fast schedule

Short Line to St. Louis

PULLMAN VESTIBULE SERVICE. For information regarding tickets, time, etc., and sleeping car space, call on agent City Ticket Office, 627 Wabash ave., or agent Union Depot.

G. E. FARRINGTON, Gen. Agt.

TO THE,,

Big iV Conventions

0

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NATIONAL EDUCATIONAL ASSOCIAT'N, Buffalo, July 3. »Y. P. S. C. E. CONVENTION,

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No tunnel at St. Louis. Best terminal ate Chicago, Best line to Buffalo. Through sleepers to Washington. The popular line of the G. A. R.

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D. B. Martin, Gen. Pass* & Tkt. Agt. E. O. McCormick, Pass. Traffic Mgr. CINCINNATI. O.

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DR. R. W. VAN VALZAH,

Dentist,

Office, No. 5 South Fifth Street.

C. F. WILLIAM, D. D. S.

DENTAL PARLORS,

Corner Sixth and Main Street*, TERRE HAUTE. IND.

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DAVIS & TURK

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Hood's Pills

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Weekly .. Commercial

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NATIONAL REPUBLICAN CONVENTION, St. Louts, June 10. NATIONAL DEMOCRATIC CONVENTION,

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HIGHEST CASH PRICE PAID FOB

Also Tallow, Bones, Grease

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At my Factory on the Island southwest of the City.

Harrison Smith,

Office 13 S. Second St.r

TfiRRE haute, ind, wltliln Dead Animals miles of the city.

removed free Telephone 73.

tea

Established 1861. arated 1888. Incor^or

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Mr. & Mrs. Henry Katzeobccb,

Funeral Directors

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Tele-

J. A.. DAILEY,

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SALESMEN WANTED

Pushing, trustworthy mc.i to represent us In thesa'eofonr Choice Nursery Stock. Specialties control led by us. II Ighest Salary or Commisslot paid weekly. Steady employment the yeer round. Outlt free: exclusive territory Experience not necessary big pay assured wrkers special Inducements to beginners. If rite at once for particulars to

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848 W A North

NTHAL, A. B. )uttce of the Peace and

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ftrri Haiti, Ind.

s.

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attorney- at-Law. utbThird Street, Terre Haute, Ind.