Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 25, Number 31, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 26 January 1895 — Page 6

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THE MAIL

rAPKR 'FOR THE PEOPLE.

... BAB'S LETTER.

SHE OF GARMENTS AND )f^ORALSpig§

rDISCOURSES

VW slli®

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Why the Corset» of the New "Woman »re» Flat-Footed Failure— Corsets That Really ss Fit—Rules That May be Depended Upon—

The Women That Have .jjfl^^^iaflueweed Mankind. iCopyright, 1SW.] It'came about in this way. The street door of the flat had become demoralised *nd preferred to stay open and invite book peddlers, tramps, beggars and people we didn't want to see at all to ftppear suddenly and demand oivility. We had entertained a. tramp at breakfast, the cook had subscribed to a religious monthly, my maternal parent was doing tip a package of tea for a "perfect lady," •who smelt strongly of whiskey, but who denied that she had ever tasted It, and asked for a bit of tea to fetch her up. Then, the independent woman eonfronted me. I was perfectly helpless as she seated herself in the most comfortable chair In the room and began to talk. She was selling reformed oorsets on the installment plan, and incidentally she was telling of the pleasures of independence. She told me that, with no tyrant near her to order her about, she made her coffee on a gas stove and pro Tided her breakfast out of a tin sardine box and a glass jar of ginger snaps. 8he counted this as one of the pleasures of independence. She told me* she had furnished her flat by

'r til

UTILIZING PACKING BOXES,

and she seemed to think I had made a great mistake in not following the directions given in the "Woman's Column" of the "Daily Howler" as to how one could live on seven cents a day, save six, dress like a lady, and be highly cultured, and recognize the uselessness of the tyrant man.

She said if I had a pair of her corsets my heart would throb in unison with her desire for freedom. I felt that my heart had done quite throbbing enough that day, owing to the appearance of a mouse who transcended all other mice in his.impudence, and made faces at me while I wept. But, to return to the corsets, which I am sure nobody would ever do if they had either seen them or tried them on. They ceased at the waist line, ^nd had a queer accumulation of straps and buckles calculated to leave their imprint on one's skin, while they were made of a hideous gray stuff that she said wouldn't show the dirt! That was a nice reason for buying them. As if people would wear things, really nice people, women people, that were soiled and yet didn't show it! She said she felt from the way I talked that I was behind the times. She felt that I did not understand the

USES OF A MORAL CORSET,

and was probably given over to some brocaded thing that came from the land where vice reigns. Yery appropriately, a colored lady who was cleaning windows in the next house began to sing, in what might be called a strident voice, and with abroad twang that would have delighted the soul of a Boston woman, this couplet:

The ladles in France, they want to wear pants But they can't do it, you know. This made the independent lady angry, whioh was not right, and she departed, talking to herself, and quite convinced that I had given my neighbors' maid a tip as to what melody she should choose. But I was quite innocent.

However, the independent lady went next day to a club meeting, and spoke of me as weak and having no moral backbone. Honestly, I don't think I have. And that is why I prefer to wear a good pair of stays, well-shaped and pretty to look upon. Every woman should desire to have properly fitting stays, and by properly fitting ones I mean those that are agreeable to her. A fairly well fitting corset never hurt any woman, but those that are not well made, th#t are too tight about the waist, too loose about the bust, and in lumps about the hips, will not only spoil the figure and make the bodice fit badly and look ugly, but they are absolutely uncomfortable.

TO BE REMEMBERED.

One's stays should fit every part of the figure perfectly, hold the bust up slightly, and be *s smooth over the hips as if they were the skin itself. They should not need to be pulled together to fit in the back. If this must be done, they are too tight for you. The stiings may need a little drawing—just a little—but that you should have to pull and pull, or that a couple of inches of space with mull or silk coming between them in small lumps should exist, prove that you have bought the wrong number, and that you really need a pair of stays two sises larger.

The woman whose figure needs improvement should never buy a pair of corsets that are too large in the bust. Have them, instead, fit yon exactly, and then the additional flesh that you may need will be put in by your dressmaker in the form of cotton or curled hair. One has the recommendation of softness, the other of lightness. The dress reformer offers in the place of a corset a bodice bulky with thick cords, shapeless, certain to be uncomfortable on account of the buttons, and certainly of no use in bracing one up. It rather suggests to my mind the iron stayed oorsats worn by that historical personage, Catherine de Medici. y*

IT IS TIRESOME. x-.w. 1-*

By the bye, aren't you getting horri

A* sin

bly tired of hearing in the drawingroom, at the theater, and from between the book cover*, about the woman with a past? There is too much talk 'about her and too many of her, and the free discussion as to her doings is extremely undesirable. Women talk about her ex* aotly a» if she were the moat Immaculate person. Indeed, they seem almost to worship her. Now, any woman who has been unfortunate enough to* have led a wrong life, .who has repented and is trying to do right, does, I bblieve, deserve all the sympathy and consideration that is possible. But I cannot believe that she is to be put up on a pedestal and worshiped simply because she has done what she should not have done And I do not believe that she should be allowed to take her plaee in this world, at least, beside the women who have led pure and virtuous lives. If this were done, all tie women who are tempted would simply aucoumb live as ihey fancied, get as much pleasure out of a wicked life as they could, and then, when it seems desirable, either because they were growing old, had lost their beauty, or wished to lead a different life, would do it beoause they would be treated as if they had never known what sin was. I tell you this cannot be if we wish to keep our women good and honest.

THK SCRIPTURES EXPOUNDED. Somebody, who is very tender-hearted, says to me, "But He who was Divine told this woman 'to go and sin no more,' and kept them from stoning h9r by reminding them of their own sins.'1 Well, my friend, that is true. She was told to go and sin no more, and to our way of thinking it would seem as if she had dedicated the rest of her life to good works and to the worship of God. Let the woman 6i to-day do the same. But do not attempt to break down all the pillars that sustain sbciety by making it as easy as possible for the woman with a past to stand, as an equal, beside the pure girl who is your daughter, or mine.

The discussion about her isn't good for any of us, and when her reformation is sincere, I, for one, do not believe that she wilcrave society, but that she will live along her life as best she knows how, doing as many gqod dedds as pos sible to wipe out those wicked ones in the past, so that when her eyes are olosed to this world and she stands before that Judge, who will be merciful as well as just, she will be the woman without a past. Our meroy to this woman has, I very much fear, degenerated into a sickly sentimentality, that does not realize whether it is you, or me, or somebody else who has sinned that as we sow we must reap, and that we cannot look for figs on thistles.

ONE WOMAN'S CREED.

My religion is possibly a crude one, but it satisfies me. This is its gospel: "I shall pass through this world but once, Any good thing, therefore, that I can do, or any kindness that I can show to any human being, let me do it now1. Let me not defer it, or neglect it, for I shall not pass this way again." That is ft II "fk

A clever woman the other day was at a luncheon, one of those where questions are asked., and the first one was, "What two women, in the history of the world, have had the greatest influence upon its people?" Every name was mentioned from Marie Stuart down to Queen Victoria, and from Qeorge Eliot back to Catherine of Russia. The best answer it was conceded, came from a woman \yho thinks more than she talks. She said "Eve and the Virgin Mary." This was greeted with applause, and it was conceded that she had won the prize.

This bit of gossip was told. When the Second Mrs. Tanqueray" was being played at San Francisco, a bright club man said that it ought to have an additional title. Some one asked him what it was, and he answered, "The Second Mrs. Tanqueray or, Life in San Francisco." Then they asked, "What constitutes '.

A GENTLEWOMAN

One woman said, "Being well-born, well-bred, and well dressed." Another description was this: "A gentlewoman is a woman whose voice is never heard except by the person to whom she is speaking. Who has plenty of small talk, but no curiosity. Who shows by her quiet smile that she appreciates that which is amusing, but who never laughs loudly. Whose gowns are suited to the time and occasion, and who never bores one with personalities."

Still another was, "A gentlewoman is always neat in her drees, quiet in her manner, and reposeful in her effect. She is kind and good, unselfish and loving." But the one that took the prize was this: "A gentlewoman is womanly."

I don't know what will become of us all if this question business is kept up, for it is really a greater strain on the in telleot than cooking terrapin to suit a mitn. There are some things that I would like to know, but I never expect to find out. This is my first query.

PROBLEMS OP THE DAT.

Why do women prefer to write the nasty novels they do now, instead of honoring themselves by putting their names to those that would teach all women to be better and nobler?

Why do men Insist upon their wives dressing and behaving as quietly as possible, whioh is proper, and then.give voice to their admiration of some loudly dressed, loudly mannered creature who is a disgrace to her sex?

Why do women teach their daughters to be virtuous and only find it necessary to teach their sons to be honest?

Why do the men who are passionate lovers usually become such tiresome husbands?

Why do women worry wrinkles on tbelrfaees over petty troubles and bear great ones msgnificently?

Jfhy do men forget that oourtesy be

comes* husband aa well as it does a lover? Why do Women think that it doesn't make any dlflferenoe whether they exert themselves to entertain their husbands?

Why are reformers almost invariably ugly to look upon? yPhy are postage stamps so lacking in glue?

TERRE HAUTE SATURDAY VENING MAIL, JANUARY 26,1895.

Why are bank notes so disgracefully dirty? Why are telegrams invariably written without any regard to the sense of the message?

Why are messenger boys oapable of being as impudent as—well, there is nothing that oompares with their Im pudanoe.

I hope that somebody can answer these questions and I shall be obliged if, when they feel that they can give me the in* formation that desire, It will be writ ten out with blaok ink on white paper, lu a clear hand, and directed, very plain ly.to BAB.

LITTLE GIRLS' DRESSES.

Costumes For Everyday Wear—Dainty Party Gtwns of Taffeta, Silk and Crepon. Children's fashions have assumed importance, for the old days, when little people wore the olothea which were given them without protest, have passejl away and brought troublesome timete as to the fashioning of their garments Meek children are fast going out of fashion, and in their stead we find assertive young men and maidens ready with their criticism and decided opinions as to what they will or will not wear, and quite up to date in all matters of dress. Children's gowns were never prettier than they are this season, for there is such variety in the soft, clinging materials, ig the fascinating art colors, and the full skirts, large sleeves, wide collars and full berthas are especially becoming to their little, slim figures. The fashion writer in the New York Sun tells that fine nainsooks, cashmeres and thin, light colored silks, with rosebud patterns, are used for the little guimpe dresses worn by the little dames from 4 to 6 years old, and lace embroidery and narrow velvet ribbon and tiny braid are used for trimming on the waists, while the skirts are quite plain, with a broad hem.

Camel's hair, serge, quaint plaids, and all sorts of wool 'fabrics, including the rough boucle goods, plain or flecked with oolor, which are worn so much by

TWO PRETTY PARTY GOWNS.

grown up folks, are fashionable for girls old enough to go to school. Made ill the low cut, short sleaved style, and-Worn over a nainsook guimpe or a waist of cashnrere or silk of a contrasting color, these dresses are very serviceable and stylish

But it is the party dresses which are most interesting at this season of the year, and for these there are china silks plain and figuredy crepe de chine, taffeta silks, crepons, both silk and wool, in all the lovely shades. White crepe de chine or orepon over a color make very effeot ive dresses, and these shonld be made high neok, gathered in at the belt and collar and trimmed simply with belt braoes and neokband of satin ribbon the color of the lining. A pretty crepon dress for a little girl is finished with a wide lace collar and satin ribbon for neok and saah. Accordion plaited frocks have lost none of their well earned popularity, but for dancing nothing can be prettier. And a very pretty gown of this kind is made of white orepe de ohine, with a yoke of ivory white guipure lace and a trimming formed of straps and rosettes of cream satin ribbon. The sleeves, whi"h are very fnll on the shoulder, are finished with lace cuffs.,

Fashion Notes.

All sorts of ruffs, made of feathers, velvet, satin and chiffon, aro worn day and evening wear as a pretty finihii for the neok, and, whatever the material, rosettes of laoe or ribbon or bunches of violets are a conspicuous part of the make up.

A deep maroouia & very favorite color for street gowns. The Eton jacket effect is very popular, and when the jacket itself is not made of fur or velvet the material of the costume is cut in precisely the same linea

Popular as is washing silk for underwear, fine cambrio and longoloth retain their place in popular favor.

The ball gowns have as little sleeve as is possible. Everything, even the bats and toques, has the godet fullness.

The English walking hat and the turban, heavily trimmed with velvet, are again in fashion this winter.

There does not seem to be any positive law as to just where on the head the bat should be worn.

Jet bonnets seem destined never to go out erf fashion. They are every bit as popular this winter as ever.

Relief In One Day.

SOOTH

AMEBICAK N»snrelieves the

worst'eases of Nervous Prostration, Nervous nesa and Nervous Dyspepsia in a single day. relief and blessing has ever come to No such the Invalid** of this country. Its power to cure the #tomach are wonderful In the extreme. It always cures It cannot fail, it radically cures all weakness of the stomach and never disappoints. Its effects are marvellous and surprising. It gladdens the hearts of the suffering and brings Immediate relief, it is a luxury to take and always safe. Trial bottle IS cents. Sold by E. H. Bindley & Co. and Cook, Bell ft Blaok and all druggists, Terre Haute, Ind.

HOMEMADE DRESSES.

IMPORTANT FACTS TO NOTE IN FINISHING A BASQUE,

Careful Pressing of Seams Helps to Secure Perfect JPit—How to Make Draped Colin**, Lapel* and the Fashionable Gigot aitd pnff Sleeves,

[Copyright, 1806, by Amorioan Praw Association.] When the model lining has boon basted, try It on and leave' the seams on the outside, With pins take In all the Beam a until they fit the figure perfectly and then Iron the seams fiat, with the pins still in, Which will murk the seams for future use. After this trim off the superfluous stuff and aut ft pattern from muslin or paper for future use, as it will save much time. The lining should then be placed on the material, the front coming even with the two selvage edges, The side pieces and backs can all be cut out of one width by a jittle oareful management if there is no up and down to the stuff. If there is, it will require more goods. The lining and outside are now to be basted firmly together, each piece separately, after whioh the whole bodice may be basted again to be tried on, thlfl time right side out, and all the seams trimmed neatly. If the waist fits—and it will if properly basted—it can be seamed up, The seams should be taken on the outside of the bastings, as they are elastic, being loose, and therefore they stretch.

The seams should be pressed apart and the bones sewed in. Each has her own preference about the sewing In of bones. They can be bought now ready prepared, and all that is necessary is to sew the edges of the tape to the pressed seams. The finishing of the waist is now so widely different in different oases that only a general Idea can be given. Basque waists are f,aced up and pressed, and whatever styles or kind of trimming there is may be set on afterward. Few dresses now, except tailor gowns, and they not always, have buttons. They close invisibly by hooks and eyes. Lapels are just now favorite trimming on waists. They are acute triangles in form, lined with stiff wigan and faced with some kind of silk. The outside may be of the dress material or of velvet, moire, or, in fact, any suitable material. The great object is to have them stiff. Some dressmakers wire the edges. Every seam should be pressed with a hot iron, except silk and velvet.

The collar and the style of dosing the front differ so greatly that no set rule can be given for them all. The one thing to

LINING

GIGOT1 SLEEVE WITH TIGHT LINING. Remember is that accuracy is the turning point between a clumsy and a perfect gown. The draped collar is the favorite at present and is made by having a stiff lining and silken facing, with whatever Is used for the outside crushed or shirred Over the outside. A small rosette may finish the collar.

Where there is a full vest front effect desired, or a drapery of any kind arranged on a waist, the lining should be fitted and finished to boning first and the rest done iafter.

At the present moment the sleeve is the distinguishing point of the costume, and it is enormous. It requires 1XA yards of {54 inch goods to make a pair of gigot sleeves, mid even then the corncrs often have to be piecod, but that does not show in the folds. The lining to a gigot sleeve is exactly like that to a loose coat sleeve. The outside is to be gathered around the top until it is reduced to the size of the lining, and then the edges are overcast at the top and the rest pasted as usual, and the seam taken up, and the wrist faced and pressed. The diagram given here ShoWB an ordinary gigot sleeve. From shoulder to wrist in the highest part it pleasures 89 inches and in width 88. If it has to bo pieced, the proper place to piece It is the underarm part marked with a line of marks. If a mousquetairo is desired, the Fhape of the upper part is the same, but the lower Is cut two inches wider and six longer, and these gathered and tacked along bring heavy wrinkles all the way down. If the gigot sleeve has the upper portion extending up ten inches from the 00 marks and laid in a flat plaiting, cither knife or double box, covering the shoulder seam and reaching to the collar, while the rest of the sleeve is sewed in the usual stylo, it will be quite the newest thing. This is very dressy with the blouse Waists now so fashionable and gives the Garibaldi effect.

Balloon puffs are much liked for home wear, and they are made by gathering a full piece of material to a coat sleeve lining, which has the lower portion made of the same or a contrasting color. The variation In sleeves, hpwever, are all based upon the coat sleeve foundation and are so largely a matter of personal taste that It Is not necessary to enlarge upon them. A few general remarks may be made, however. The sleeves for dress occasions may be of a number of tulle or chiffon ruffles over a foundation in, coat form. The light silks are made in puffs four tlxties the length of the upper arm and four times the width of the sleeve lining. All this fullness is then draped up in rich folds, enough to bring it into partially reasonable dimensions. It requires nine yards of 24 inch silk for these puffs and one yard for the forearm pieces.

OLIVB HARPKB.

The Bale For 8*1 ted Almonds. The thrifty woman can prepare her own salted almonds according to this rule: Shell, blanch and dry half a pound of almonds. Lay them in a clean tin pan, with a couple of teaspoons of butter, and put them in a rather hot oven. Shake the pan frequently, that the almonds may oolor equally. When of a uniform light brown, take tbedi out, drain them In a colander* on brown paper and sprinkle them lightly wltlfsalfc

On one point lu current fashions there is no doubt—that toques are taking the place of bonnets and hats to a great extent.

Cologne Made at Home.

Cologne is quite expensive when purchased outright. A better artiole may be mnde at home than that whioh is bought at the drug store, and with little trouble and expense. Here is a recipe for making it from Good Housekeeping: Thoroughly dissolve a fluid dram each of the oils of bergamot, orange and rosemary, with half a dram of neroli, 4 drops of the essence of lemon and a pint of rectified spirits. If this is subsequently distilled, it makes a perfect cologne, but it becomes exceedingly fine after having been tightly stopped and kept two or three mouths.

Another cologne, to use as toilet water, is less expensive than the foregoing: Oil of bergamot^ lavender and lemon, each 1 dram oil of rose and jasmine, each 10 drops essence of ambergris, 10 drops spirits of wine, 1 pint. Mix and keep well corked.

A Jewelry Case.

Modern Priscilla contributes for the publio convenience a simple model in way of a oase for oarrying jewels when traveling.

piece of eider down, 10 inches long and 6 wide, is finished at the back with silk of any preferred shade.

Lli-_«Lu A CASE FOE JEWELRY.

gathered silk bag, 3% inches wide and divided in the middle, is secured to the lower end, and two flaps, fastened at eaohside, meet in the center. The fancy pins are stuck in the eider down at the top, the rings and other trinkets being stowed away in the little bags. The flaps are folded, and the case rolled up and made firm by two pieoes of ribbon sewed to the upper end.

Novelties In Shoes*

Pretty women, who like to wear a dainty light make out of doors, would be glad to know that some of the most dressy shoes have cork soles, with a red edge round, matching the red heels. Most of the indoor shoes are pointed at the toes, short on the instep, with a small buckle or buttons in front, but the Queen Anne shape, coming well up toward the ankle. Black suedes are findin t? favor for indoor shoes. Women who can afford it, and who make a feature of good dressing, have a pair of boots or shoes to matoh each costume.

A Cozy Corner For Skirts.

The very, latest fad in house furnishing is a box couch .This is really quite con venient for Jmg tailed gowns that pereist in dragging on closet floors and crush with folding. The couch will fit into a bow window nicely and piled with pillows is really a delightful loui.ging plac^

Use it in Time.

Catarrh starts in the nasal passages, affecting eyes, ears and throat, and is in fact, the great enemy of the mucous membrane. Neglected colds in the head almost Invariably precede catarrh, causing an excessive flow of mucous, and if the mucous discharge becomes interrupted the disagreeable results of catarrh will follow, such as bad breath, severe pain across forehead and about the eyes, a roaring and buzzing sound in the ears and oftentimes a very offensive discharge. Ely's Cream Balm is the acknowledged oure for these troubles.

AYER'S Hair Vigor

/GROWTH)

Prevents

BALDNESS REMOVES DANDRUFF

AND

Restores Color

Faded and Gray HAIR THE

GROWTH

Best Dressing

T)R. L. H. BARTHOLOMEW,

DENTIST.

Removed to 671 Main st. Terre Haute. Ind.

JSAAO BALL,

FUNERAL DIRECTOR.

Cor. Third and Cherry Sta., Terre Haute, Ind Is prepared to execute all orders it* his 11 n* with neatness and dlspatcl

Kintmlmlnic a Specialty.

IHIIIIIIIIIIIIIHIIIII

IM COLUMBIA FAP CALENDAR

A Desk Calender is a necessity most convenient kind of storehouse for memoranda. The Columbia Desk Calendar is brightest and handsomest of all—full of dainty silhouettes and pen sketches and entertaining thoughts on outdoor exercisi and sport. Occasionally reminds you of the superb quality of Columbia Bicycles and of your need of one. You won't object to that, of course. The Calendar will be mailed for five 2-cent stamps.

Address Calendar Department, gcg POPE MFQ. CO., Mention thu paper. Hartford, Conn. 11

McCLURE'S MAGAZINE

S. S.

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FOR 1895.

Volurne IV ^begins December,

1894.

splendidly

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NAPOLEON,

the great feature of, which, will be SEVENTY-FIVE PORTRAITS of Napoleon, showing him from youth to death also portraits of his family and contemporaries and pictures, of famous battlefields in all nearly 200 PICTURES. Begins in November ancTruns through eight numbers. The.

Eight Napoleon Numbers, $1.00

TRUE DETECTIVE STORIES

by authority from the archives of the P1NKERTON DETECTIVE AGENCY. Lincoln and Pinkerton (Nov.

1894)

the Molly Maguire's Allan Pinkerton's Life Stories of Capture of Trainrobbers, Forgers,. Bapk-robbers, etc. each complete in one issue,

in all.

SHORT STORIES BY

W. D. Howells Bret Harte liM Conan Doyle Rudyard Kipling Robert Barr Clark Russell Joel Chandler Harris and many others.

NOTED CONTRIBUTORS. Robert Louis Stevenson P. Marlon Crawford Archdeacon Farrar Sir Robert.Ball Prof. Drummond Archibald Forbes Thomas Hardy

Send three 2-cent stamps for a sample copy to the publishers xsc. a Copy $1.50 a Fear.

McCLURE, L't'd,

Lafayette Place, New York Liberal commission paid to agents to get subscriptions.

the m. a*

The first of American Newspapers, CHARLES A. DANA, Editor.*,:-,'^

The Suliday

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