Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 25, Number 27, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 29 December 1894 — Page 6

HATS AND BONNETS.

FLOWERS AND FEATHERS, LACE AND FUR TRIM THEM.

Krerythinjc In flata Between the Midentic Picture Hat and the Toque Is Worn. Bonneta Art Equally Fashionable—For

Evening: Wear Small Bonneto Rule.

Only a very pretty woman oan afford to wear an unbecoming liat, and as pretty women are in the minority the advice is given, "Look well after your bead, and the rest will take care of it self." Frenchwomen depend on the dressing of the extremities for their success. Given a good hat, gloves and shoes, the dress becomes a secondary consideration. Never select a hat be-

ONE OF THE NEW HATS.

cause it pleases you when seen on the millinor's block or in your hand. Await judgment until it has been placed upon tho head that is to wear it. A large hat viewed from the showcase is an altogether beautiful object, with its brim full of undulations and wayward curves and its nodding feathers, but the typo, of women for which these hats wore originally created back a couple of centuries ago had a profile and a presence. Short women, therefore, with noses that have deteriorated from the pure Grecian, if wise, will pass these majestic picture hats by to make their purchases from oases exhibiting toques, sailors, garland and other forms of headgear better adapted to their speoial requirements.

A great deal has been written and said concerning the extravagant freaks of fashion in respect to the bonnet a la mode for the season of 1894-5. As a matter of fact, however, the outre styles are created by the second rate American milliner, who gets her ideas from Paris and then proceeds to exaggerate them until Paris would blush at the soft impeachment if she could but hear it. The genuine French and best domestic hats are neither outre nor extravagant.

Tho crude coloring and hard materials of last season have given way to softer tones of velvet, of which many of tho new hats are composed. A hat that shows one of the most recent developments of tho picture hat is black, with an admixture of the new shades of pinky rods. There is an abundance of ostrich plumes, as indeed in all the new models they are introduced with a most liberal hand, but the shape is quite different from any that have been worn in previous seasons. The front curves upward from the face, and it is shallow at the sides. Those who understand the laws regarding the configuration of the head and what best suits thoso with large, small or uncommonly developed craniums will recognize the inorita of this particular shape.

A pretty toque has its orown covered with jet stars and encircled with bands of black velvet Green and pink satin ribbons are arranged in loops at the sides and bows at the back. There are jot ornaments between tho loops and a black osproy at one sido. Anew bonnet seen has a full crown of cerise velvet, a jot coronet and ornaments. There are black satin bows and strings. An additional trimming is a black feather pompon, with a black osprey in the center.

Rhinestone crowns that glitter like diamonds and in wide open designs, skewing tho hair beneath, are on very elaborate bonnets and hata that have narrow brims made up of black satin and velvet baby ribbon plaited together. Pink roses without foliage, set about siugly, giving tho effect of rosettes, are tho trimming, to which white aigrets are added. Wired loops of black velvet stand high at tho back. Braided strips of felt and satin are used on the small

STYLISH TOQUK ASI BONJfRT.

hats worn vith tailor gowns. The satin strips brighten up the dull felt of the plaiting and make these hats very popular.

Black felt toreador bats are trimmed with a large bow of ribbon on ono side, with pompons. Smaller hats, with undulating or fluted brims, are very effective and becoming. Fur is much used as a trimming, sable for bonnets and astrakhan fear hats. Sfceel is the latest decoration among the metallic novelties, bot there are evening bonnets which area shining mass of gold, steel and silver and mock jewels.

f,'5

ALICE VARNCM.

t,Inen Dollle®.

The linen used for doilies that are to have borders of drawn work Rbcrahi bo very fine or of linen cambric lawn. The difficulty of drawing the threads from such linen is much lessened if a piece of fine, dry white soap is rubbed oarefully over the space where it is desired to do the work.

THE USES OF DENIMS.

Thl. X* Not New Snttfect, Important One,

The old fashioned blue aud brown denims are very durable aud useful in house furnishing. Denim makes a neat carpet for a bedroom, study or any room where tfiero is not too inuoh wear on the carpet. If blue denim is used, it should first be washed to take away the slight greenish tiuge it has when new. A very dainty carpet oan bo made of this material by working on it in out line, with white' cotton cord, olover leaves scattered here and there, two feet or so apart, or two circles overlapping may be worked instead of olover leaves. Suoh a carpet makes a very dainty covering for the floor, and being smooth it is very easily swept. Brown denim may be worked in the same way with red or yellow cotton carpet warp.

Denims also make a serviceable rug for the bathroom by using two pieoes of denim of the desired size with a few thicknesses of any old wornout material between them and rurining it aoross on the sewing machine a few times to hold all together. Bind the edge with vfhito tape or turkey red calico. This rug protacts the feet from the cold floor and is ndt injured by tho wet,*but can be hung out in the sun to air and dry.

In these luxurious days, when we mpst have cushions under our feet, the covers of these cushions should be of smooth material that will not gather up the dust from the carpet Denim answers very well when the carpet and other appointments of the room are not too rich. Embroider in outline some large, flowing design in white cord upon blue denim and finish the edges of the cushion with upholsterer's white cotton cord. Such a cushion is pretty covered with Japanese embroidery, so called. This consists simply of zigzag lines, changing the color of the yarn at almost every turn.' Denim may also be used for covering old chairs.

Another place where this material is very useful, says a writer in Good Housekeeping and authority for the foregoing, is in making Rchoolbags. Cut a piece of blue denim 14 by 24 inches. On one half work in white cotton in stem stitch the initials or monogram of the one for whom it is intended. Double together and sew in the form of a bag. Bind the edges with red tape and use the same, doubled and stitched together, for handles for the bag. This bag id neat and durable and oan be washed without spoiling its appearance.

•Tho Fashionable Enormity.

The feminine sleeve increases in size every day, and unless some violent reaction sets in bids fair to take more material than all the rest of the oos-

FBENCH TAILOR MADE JACKET.

tuma It seems passing strange that with the dispensing of petticoats, the shortening of skirts and the adoption of all sorts of mannish ways tho sleeve should be allowed full swing. More noticeable than the winter gowns themselves are they, and of two or three fashions. Private letters from abroad tell us that in France and England the ultra sized sleeve is losing in favor, but for aw Hi le longer on this side of the water the monstrosity will be the style. The leg of mutton shape, particularly in coats, jackets and cloth costumes, is tho most used, but in 'the dinner, reception or house gowns the fancy styles are the favorites, and they may be any size.

The crinolinowas frowned upon, and it would seem took its revenge by forcing women to wear these huge balloons, which so utterly distort and destroy the beauty of any figure. Contrary to all rules of art, the fashionable woman of today walks about with her arms twice —nay, three timfes apparently—the size of her shoulders. There is no possible beauty in this style, whioh makes tall women look round shouldered, fat women chunky and changes the most perfect figure into a caricature.

Fashion Echoe*.

Fur boas and muffs decorated with cream lace and violets are an evident fancy of fashion.

Young women appear in very large hats with upstanding bows of velvet and feathers, which give them a flyaway sort of appearance, and their hair is wavy and fluffy down over their ears.

Many black dresses are seen, but most of them have either white or colored waists, elaborately trimmed.

Street dresses are mostly tailor made, of smooth cloths, mixed tweeds and rough wool fabrics of every description, and built in the coat and skirt style.

Plain wool dresses trimmed with bands of fur and velvet are worn. Skirts in most of the new evening gowns are mado flaring to five or six yards at the bottom.

Rose pink, pearly gray and opalescent shades are among the most fashionable colors.

A new material called lisrein is made into jackets and mantles. It is a fine imitation of sealskin, rainproof.

"V.^^terRE HAUTE SATURDAY EVENING MAIL, DECEMBER 29, 1894.V

LATEST STYLE OF HAIRDRES8INQ.

It Cover* Over the Ears and Slakes Home Faoet Very Pretty, The Parisian fashion of wearing the hair parted down the middle, waved over the ears, entirely hiding them from view, and caught np in a loose knot just above the nape of the nook, is more and more in evidence, and ^e find it very prettily illustrated by a number of women to whom this style is extruor-

PARISIAN HAIRDRESSINA.

dinarily becoming. Pretty fluffy hair is undoubtedly the first thing required to make this fashion a suocess, and an absolutely perfect oval faoe, whioh is rare •in this age and generation, is the Beer ond, but when the face is suited to the style its charms are enhanced to such an extent that a woman often develops a beauty w"hioh she never dreamed she possessed. It is said that a Frenoh danseuse with this particular style of face revived this fashion of 50 years ago.

When the forehead is low enough to stand the revelation, the faoe purely oval in outline and the features regular, there is no disputing the charm of this fashion. The real proportions of the face are brought out, and the forehead, minus the fringe down to the eyebrows, reveals an expression entirely unknown before. The hair should be full, waved thoroughly and puffed out a little at the sides, so it will tumble over the ears in an apparently careless yet studied manner which cannot look untidy. The art of Parisian hairdressing is in giving the coiffure a oareless effeot, combined with perfect neatness. In the old portraits of women painted by Sir Joshua Reynolds and Gainsborough the hair is almost invariably in this style, and the size of- the face appears so small that it looks like a dainty flower in its full soft setting. The New York Sun gives illustrated examples of-this latest Parisian style of hairdressing, whioh New York women have already taken up.

A Portable Bookshelf.

To make a portable bookshelf with clips to hold any required, number of books, so that they be lifted on or off the table together," take ah oak shelf a half inch thick and planed smoothly on both sides. To this two sheet metal clips are to bo applied, so that they may slide on the shelf and hold a larger or smaller number of volumes erect. An oblong piece of tin or brass, abont three inches wide and three times as long as the shelf is broad, will form one of these clips. It is to be bent up at each side of the shelf, and, being out nearly half through level with the upper surface of the shelf, one-half of each upright is again bent pt right angles to the rest, thus securing a hold on the board and forming a rest for the end volumes of the set. Through.holes in the upturned portions a silk cord may be passed, serving for a handle. These clips may be beautifully ornamented by punching and ohasing. Care should be taken to punch from the side which will be turned toward the books otherwise a great deal of work with the file will be necessary to remove rough edges.

a a

Clean and wash the same as a turkey. Make a dressing of six or eight potatoes well boiled and .mashed, two onions chopped very fine, two teaspoonfuls of sage, one of salt and one of pepper. Put it into the body of the goose and sew it up. Roast it two hours, basting it frequently in its own drippings. When about half d6ne, turn off the fat in the roaster. The last drippings are sufficient for the gravy. To make the gravy put the gizzard, neck and liver into a saucepan with a quart of water and a little popper, salt and mace. List it boil down to about half a pint. When done, braid up the liver very fine with a knife and put it back into the water it was boilckl in, then add the drippings of the goose, thicker it with a little flour rubbed smooth in a little cold water and give it one boil, stirring it all the tima

Novel Mnslo Stand.

In every household where there is a musician a music stand is a necessity. A reoeptaole for sheet musio and musio books is not only a convenience, but a preservative of that whioh costs much money. A model in the way of a musio stand which is both novel and useful may be made in plain whitewood oov-

MCSTC OR SKWSPAFER STAND.

ered with either ruby or peacock blue plush, set off with bands of bright brocade aud old gold lace, with which harmonises the chenille fringe and tassels. The inside, with its high partition, is lined and draped with satin or surah Silk in a contrasting shade. This stand is equally appropriate for engravings o? newspapara.

a^eaap

THE STUDY OF MUSIC,

Shall Children Be Made to Study Mnslo, Talent or1 No Talent?

In tho matter of musio children may be divided into three classes—-those who have ability and industry combined, those who have ability without industry, and those who have no native ability whatever. It is with tho last two th the problem has to do. For the children of gift and energy a smooth path clearly marked out.

There now como the children who are apparently without any talent, who oan hardly detect the difference between one tone and another. One of two things is usually done with these—either, hav ing no talent, they are put under a pressure of study to constrain them to develop one, or after brief trial they are given up as entirely hopeless. Tho bes method of dealing with these children is seldom resorted to and lies midway between. Away far down in the most tuneless child's nature thero may lie a

:germ

of music unsuspected by every

body else and undiscoverable to tne child himself perhaps until ho has long passed the ago of study. This little germ can bo killed outright in early youth, and when it is killed it is usually the piano that does it. If all chil dren, talent or no talent, were instructed in early youth in tho theory of music, were grounded in the figures of notation just as they are in the figures of arithmetic, at whatever period of life !thisi l!tfle germ disclosed itself, they would be able to encourage it by their technical knowledge, instead of feeling that it is too late, and altogether useless, because they are theoretically ignorant of music.

There has rarely been a child born to whom an education in rhythm and the effort of the mind to conquer musical mathematics have not proved of immediate help even in other branches. All children should receive at least this. If productive of no present results in the field of music itself, innumerable cases of precedence go to show that there is no possible foretelling when it may become productive. Many a taste has been •known to blossom in young people after hearing a number of operas aud concerts, and the ear has unexpectedly been opened to the beauty in variety of tone. Take the child of no talent, teach it theory if only as a good mental exercise, and teach it rhythm if only as an aid to harmony in poise and movement, then let tho oar come if it will, thero will be method, of use also in other directions, ready to support it Under no circumstances can it bo well to neglect this theoretic musical education, which never taxes tho patience as does a useless and monotonous practice, and which will preparo the child, should musical environment develop talent later, to utilize it from the first. The above voices tho opinions of some of the best musical authorities as roported in Harper's Bazar.

$» A Delicion* Dainty.

Inexpensive and quite out of the common is chestnut cream. B6il a pound Of the best chestnuts (after having pricked them) in water for three-quarters of an hour, or one hour, according to size. Peel them well and pass tbem through 'a oolander or through a patent potato masher. Sprinkle thom with 2 ounces of pounded or fine sugar flavored with vanilla. Whip a quarter of a pint of good cream and pour it over the chestnuts, having also mixed sugar and vanilla with it The cream must be whipped in a cool place and only just when it is wanted. It whips easier if a pinch of very fine gum tragacanth be added.

Pretty and Useful CatchalL

A pretty receiver for a lady's dressing table may, by following these directions

from

The Household, be made easily and cheaply: Select three small baskets o» uniform siae and make and catch to-

A TWO OF BASKJSTB.

gether with three fluffy pompons. One of tho baskets is lined with silk, another is filled with a silk pincushion for stickpins and hatpins, while the third has curled hair covered with net lace for the accommodation of hairpins.

Any pretty little fancy basket may be nsed for this purpose, and ribbons for tying them together are foily as pretty t*8 the pompons.

SSsSsMB

fptpifl

Some of the most rarely gifted chil dren are deterrfiiuedly lazy in early youth. Suoh musical natures area rj sponsibility too often lot go to ehipwreel because of want of proper insistence that they shall work. Parents make up thiur minds it is na use to drive them that despite all their ear and tasto they can pever bo made to do anything. Efforts on their behalf are relaxed just at the very point when a little strength authority might have secured a proper development of the child's powers. It 1 an absurd decision that all children dos tined to become anything in a musical way will have the natural disposition to work. More than half probably will not and one of the most miserable of art orueltios is perpetrated in overlooking their musical possibilities simply be cause they are idle. Such children should have their path imperatively chalked out for them, and it should bo seen that they walk it. If they show an aptitiude for any particular instru ment, they should be made to practice it, not to a Btrict degree at first, but by stqady stages until it ceases to bo a labor. To impose ou their little ardent natures too severe a technical ground all at once ia perhaps as disastrous as utter neglect would be. They must be carefully handled systematically. Let a child who has the capacity to work up between lessons thjyjo etudes, but hates and dreads to do it, be given -one instead.

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FOR 1895.

Hi'" Volume IV begins

December, 1894.

A splendidly illustrated life of

NAPOLEON,

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SEVENTY-FIVE PORTRAITS

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TRUE DETECTIVE STORIES

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NOTED CONTRIBUTORS.

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