Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 25, Number 13, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 22 September 1894 — Page 6

THE LATEST STYLES.

AS REPRESENTED IN IMPORTED AND HOME PRODUCTIONS.

arlouH Example* of Mixed Colurtng—Btaob and White Stripes Instead of Checks. CMr Parisian Gowns Described The Convenient Cape Popular as Ever.

The latest Paris gowns are some of them curious examples of mixed coloring, showing army hloe, red and sometime applo green in one costume. These arc designed doubtless to meet the requirements of women on the alert for novel effects. For those of quiet tastes the news that block and white stripes are taking the place of the check so much worn during the summer will be wol-

&

PARISIAN PROMENADE COSTUMES.

come. A very "chio" costume from Doucet, who has the art of combining simplicity with styles and whose gowns are pre-eminently in "good form," has a black satin stripe on a white ground. The skirt is made perfectly plain, its style being in the out, which is admirable. The black and white silk reaches only to the armpits at the side and is finished heart shaped in front, the extreme point touching the collar, where it ends in a spreading but narrow black satin bow. The upper part of the bodice and sleeves is made of accordion plaited black mousseline de soie over white silk. The sleeves are very much puffed and reach only to the lower part of the armholes, a band of the black and white silk continuing to the elbow, where it is finished .with black satin bows. The rest of the arm is bare, to be covered with long black gloves.

The sleeves appear to be smaller, the puffed part being short, while the remainder of the sleeve closely follows the arm, becoming tight at the wrist. In London they have introduced a skirt of anew out, which rests on the ground and describes a series of Vandykes at the foot. They give fullness and fall in flutings, presenting a most elegant and charming effect. They have to be oaught together at the back with elastic, whioh causes the skirt to sway around graoefully. A broad waistband stitched to the skirt and cut to fit the figure does away with the silk belt and holds the blouse firmly in place.

Two imported costumes se£n recently furnish details of inooming styles. One was a cloth dress trimmed with flat cross bands, edged with machine stitching. The skirt was out with a seam both front and back and side darts to better mold the hips. The sleeves, close fitting at the wrists, bad their fullness at the top arranged in flat drooping folds the dark hat ornamented with ostrich feathers and velvet rosettes. The second costume was in gray crepon cloth, with chemisette and chatelaine stripes in buttor colored lace. Pretty bows finished off the shoulder slashes of the full bodice and the elbow sleeves, while upright fan plai tings headed the treble godot on each side of the skirt The hat, bordered with feather trimming, was adorned with lemon colored velvet bows and wings.

The craze for capes has by no means abated, and they are very becoming in these days of large sleeves and save the wearer from presenting a crushed and wretched appearance when there is need

A

NOVKLTT IS

CAPBS.

of a wrap. The very latest wraps for driving and evening wear are double capes with turndown velvet collars. While slightly horsy in effect, they are smart and convenient Another style of the ever necessary cape is circular in shape, with a seam down each shoulder and ornamented with three rows of cloth applied as strap seams. The fronts are kept together by a strap at the throat and another strap hidden under the revers will keep the cape double breasted when it is closed. A heavy cloth makes up best and takes fippm 2}$ to 8 yards, according to the width.

Scalloped Chicken.

Mince cold chicken and a little lean ham quite fine season with pepper and a little salt if needed stir all together and add some sweet cream—enough to make quite moist Cover with crumbs, put it into scallop shells or a flat dish, pot» little butter on top and brown before the fire or front of a range.

MM

HOW TO MEMORIZE MUSIC,

Study What You Would Meraorlto Both With and Without Your piano, "It is not not enough to know good pieoes with your fingers. Yon should be able to remember them to yourself without a pianoforte. Sharpen your powers of fancy that you mny remember correctly not only the melody of a composition, but its proper harmonies also." These words of Robert Schumann should be impressed on every music student Study what you wopld memorize both With and without your plana Observe its character, the key in whioh it ia written, its rhythm, meter and movement its harmonies, with their relations—in fact all its developments, melodious and harmonious. Analyze thoroughly, comparing passage with passage, tracing similarities and points of divergence, thus calling the law of association to the aid of that of attention. Imprint on your mental consciousness the full tonal worth of eaoh note and eaoh chord and see to it that your musoular training is of a kind to make your fingers obedient to the inner voioe.

When you can fully orient yourself In the composition, close your eyes, that you may look only within, and try how much you can recall mentally. Then, with eyes still olosed, try how much you can play. If your fingers stumble over a passage, repeat this several times, first with eyes fixed on the notes, again with closed eyes, that the musoular sense may contribute toward fixing the impression. Repeated combined action of the inner and outer forces tends to produce clearness and aoouraey of image and permanence of possession. Do not give yourself a greater task to memorize daily than can be ocomplished without fatigua To overstrain your powers is to enfeeble them. If you study intelligently.

you can single out oertain phrases, sentences or periods and know where it Is proper to stop. It is a good* plan to write down from memory what you have committed, eveh to transpose it at times into other keys, both in writing and at the piano, says the author of the foregoing in Harper's Bazar. A child can readily be interested in musio if taught intelligently. Let him build scales, form chords and learn the why and wherefore of each step taken, and memory will be a matter of thorough comprehension. Youth is the time to begin to memorize, but a well exercised memory will continue to strengthen throughout active existence.

A Lamp Screen.

A table screen for keeping the wind from alighted lamp will be found very useful. The frame of the 'model, described by Modern Priscilla, is made of

i. LAMP SCREEN.

1

heavy millboard. Each panel is made in two pieces, which are covered separately with dark plush neatly glued in place. The Japanese crape pictures are then glued smoothly in place, and after all is dry the front and back of each panel are sewed together. The two completed panels are then joined by sewing to form a hinge, and large, round brass buttons or gilded wooden balls are attached for feet

A screen of this kind would be very pretty with panels of painted bolting cloth, or pressed autumn leaves could be used between glass panels. In the latter case the frame should be of wood, as the glass would be too heavy for a cardboard frame.

Preserved Plams.

The following rule is equally good for either damson or green gage plums, the damsons being particularly nice to eat with meats: Make the sirup for all the plums to be preserved at one time, allowing a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit and a gill of water to a pound of sugar. Boil for 10 minutes then put in the sirup only enough plums to fill two or three jars. Cook until they can easily be pierced with a straw then can and put fresh fruit into the boiling sirup. If there is any sirup left over from preserving the plums, put in enough sugar to make it jell and cook a little longer. This makes a delicious jeily. ..

Staple Senear Sauce.

A good liquid pudding sauoe is made by scraping half a pound of maple sugar and dissolving it in a cupful of cream or rich milk. Let it boil a few minutes at the side of the range until it has the consistency of thin sirup, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Batter puddings, or, in fact, any puddings which have no decided flavor of their own, are much improved when served with this sauce. _____

Household Brevities.

Try pouring boiling water over tea, coffee and fruit stains before putting the fabrio stained in the suds.

Begin grating nutmegs at the stem end in order to keep them solid. New bread and butter plates of silver are perfectly round but for a little seal-, lop on one side designed for the butter.

The rubber rings of fruit jars will tocover their elasticity if soaked for awhile in weak ammonia water.

If oxidized silver be rubbed with any kind of silver powder, it will lose its peculiar beauty. All that is necessary is to wab It with soap and water and polish it with chamois or a dry flannel.

-..v»u,."r,|sw

ARTISTIC FITMENTS.

The Present Nomadlo Type of Furnishing Compared With a More Abldin* 8t/le« The fashion of furniture fitmonts seems now to be continually increasing in popularity. The many unquestionable advantages, both of an economical as

A CANOPIED DIVAJto ^,

well as of a hygienio character, whioli aoorue from having one's furniture fitted to the walls are gradually beginning to dawn upon the general publio mind, and it is not unreasonable to hope that before many years have passed away it will be quite orthodox for middle class folk to despise the present nomadio type of furnishing in favor of the more abiding and homelike fitments. The very character of fitted furniture seems to convey an air of established homeliness which is destined to oontinue for many years, while the old fashioned suits of so many pieoes, witl^their deoorative accessories, always suggest the unwelcome possibility of leaving an old familiar house which has been endeared to us by all the cherished associations of home life.

Fitted furniture at times is very simple, and sometimes it is of an elaborate character. As a rule, the best and most artistio work is the least complicated and "fussy." Decorator and Furnisher, authority for the foregoing, illustrates a very dainty and convenient draped divan that is in the highest sense a 'fitment" There are no "broken up" recesses, with shaped arches and spindles, no entangled fretwork and no useless little open pigeonholes to serve as so many dust traps. Everything is smooth, oompact and tasteful, giving that expression of repose that is so desirable in modern furnishings.

General Rules For Jelly Making.

The fruit from which the juioe is expressed should not be overripe. Strain the juioe carefully, measure and heat before adding the sugar. The usual proportions are a pint of sugar for eaoh pint of juice. The sugar common granulated—should be heated in the oven before it is .put into the boiling juice. Boil gently and skim frequently. Rinse the jelly glasses in warm water before pouring the jelly into them. When filled, place the glasses uncovered in the sunshine and let them be undisturbed for 24 hours. Then cut rounds of paper, wet them with brandy and place over the top of the jelly. Now cut rounds an inch larger, dip them in the white of egg and cover the tops of the glasses, pressing the edges down outside and sealing, thus making them airtight

A Pocket Table.

A charming little work table, provided with pookets, whioh is full of suggestions to women who are on the lookout for things out of the ordinary, has a frame in wood either enameled or hid-, den under plush.

A ribbon torsade connects, together the four shaped legs, headed with an

TABLE WITH POCKETS.

arabesque embroidered in silk and further smartened up with bowa Four pockets hang from the square plush cover. Two are circular, and two are pointed and fluted at the top under a chenille cord, being lined with contrasting satin. On the outside are applied sprays wrought in multicolored silks ia harmony with the large one in the center of the Oxford frame described, with fancy galon tipped with bows. ,«'-xyri

Modern Sidesaddles*

The modern woman, with otfier outdoor exercises, includes that of horseback riding. The question of a costume with divided skirt and the practice of riding astride has been agitated, but women who favor these innovations are in the minority. For the great majority who cling to the conventional sidesaddle is offered a novelty in sidesaddles 'with a reversible pommel. By the use of this one can use either side of the saddle and thus prevent any danger of becoming one sided by always riding one way. The first reversible pommel, it is told, was used by the Princess of Wales, other Euglisli women following th ^fashion, which has now extended to tms country. Doctors advocate the idea and fashion seconds it Therefore sidesaddles with reversible pommels are likely to hare arm

Tea tables are made in all sorts of quaint shapes.

-THE UNEN WEDDING,, ..

ftp* This Twentieth Anniversary of Harried Life May lie Observed. Tlje linen wedding furnishes an excellent opportunity for pretty presents in embroidered doilies and all manner qf other napery. It is less suggestive to A hostess as a "theme" for an entertain­

ment A

dinner to whioh only intimate

friends and the families of bride and groom are invited seems more appropriate than any more ambitious observance of the day.

The invitations may be written on equates of linen in indelible ink and inclosed in envelopes of the same material

The elaborate folding of napkins

is no longer in vogue, but the fashion might be revived on such an occasion when linen is to be made the prominent feature. Any pretty drawnwork or embroidered linen max be appropriately introduced. Napkinsiolded to represent a succession of soallop shells or fans may surround and conceal the dish holding the flowers in the oenter of the tabla No flowers are so suitable for the occasion as the pretty blue blossoms of the flax plant but they are hardly vivid enough by themselves to be effective, as the table is so severely white. Bright poppies and yellow hearted daisies mingled among the blue flax make a charming oenterpiece. Small squares fine linen with fringed edges may be embroidered with the guests' names in blue or red—Kensington stitoh—in bold English writing, and will answer very well for name oards when made to adhere to squares of bristol board by means of a little flour paste.

Nothing makes abetter surface for water color painting than linen, and imagination may run riot if the hostess be an artist, says The Ladies' Home Journal, which makes these suggestions. Upon every dish a round, fringed doily should be plaoed.

A really dainty flower bolder may be made by plaoing a slender thin glass tumbler in the center of around piece •of fine linen, edged with lace an inch or two wide. This should be drawn up and plaited around the edge of the tumbler and tied with narrow ribbon in many loops. The lace stands out like a ruffle, making a border around the

The Question of Coiffures.

The question of coiffures used to be a very vexing one, for fashion was once very niggardly, and there was but one prevailing style. Now one can arrange her locks to suit the contour of the head and face and still be in the fashion. The soft, graceful knot, lying low upon

&

FASHIONABLE COIFFUIiES.

the neck, is suited to the long, slender face, and the chic knot, drawn away from the nape and fastened upon the crown, leaving a few little rustling curls on the neck, with a band of velvet around the knot, fastened in a little butterfly bow At the left side, gives a dainty, dignified air to the round faoe. Then the soft coil carelessly arranged at the back of the head is artistio and graceful. All are equally fashionable.

Will women ever have the courage to brush back the curls about the faoe? The New York Sun says "probably not" Many efforts have been made unsuccessfully to part the hair and draw it away from the temples, but the soft wavy locks are too becoming and soften the lines of the face too much to allow of sacrificing them to the whim of the few blessed with broad, low foreheads. So the curly bang holds its own and is a blessing to the community.

Care of First Teeth.

The child's temporary teeth do not as a rule, receive any attention, while in point of fact the care of these deciduous teeth has very much to d« with the seoond and permanent set These teeth' should be cleaned with a soft brush and warm water. The child usually retains these teeth until the eruption of the permanent set, the first permanent tooth appearing about the sixth year. The deciduous teeth should be carefully watched, and when the tooth shows decay consult your deutisfc and have it filled. At this stage the filling is not expensive and will save the child much pain and trouble from an aching tooth. The early extraction of the deciduous teeth often causes the irregularities of the permanent set They should be retained until the jaw has fully expanded to receive the permanent teeth. Teach the child the necessity of keeping the teeth clean and pure. The'early use of the toothbrush will establish a habit that will in after years be considered a neoessity to health and personal cleanliness.,

r** Stuffted Turnips. jpeel and boil in slightly salted water until half dona Take them out, slice off a bit from the bottom to make them stand firmly. Cut a slice from the top. Scoop out the middle and fill with a stuffing of minced meat (veal, if possible), onion and parsley, and mushrooms, if they can be had. Tie the slice onto the topt Place the turnips in a saucepan, pour over them some boiling gravy or stock, add a bit of butter, season with salt and pepper. Simmer gently until tender. Arrange in a deep dish, thicken the sauce with the yolk of aa egg, pour over the turnips and serve hot

Renaissance lace is at present in high favor as a* means of dressing up the plain glass doors. It acts as a shield, and yet in no way obscures the light

HEE PRIVATE LIFE.

HOW LITTLE WE K*OW Of-. ^AQH OTHER'S AFFAIRS.

Troubles and Trials Which We Keep To Ourselves—Some Good Reasons Why It Is Wise to Tell Our Experience*, pi story of great suffering comes from Middlesex, Vt. Mrs. B. A. Stockwell, a well-known lady residing there* has endured the most intense agony from headaches. She continued to suffer frightfully without obtaining relief. Finally a friend who bad recovered from a similar complaint told her just what to do to be cured.

She is now well and wants every suf ferlng wqtnan to know about it. Here is her remarkable letter: "About a year and a half ago," she says, "I bad a time of very severe headaches, which, while they lasted were so bad that I could not sit up. They lasted trow one to two days, generally two, and after I got over them I was completely prostrated. I tried many remedies but could not find anything to relieve me. I became fearfully discouraged and down-hearted and teared I should never get well.

MBS. B. A. STOCKWELL.

"I finally began the use of Dr. Greene's Nervura blood and nerve remedy and in a very short time was much better. I am now entirely cured thanks to this wonderful medicine. I desire to recommend it to everyone who is suffering from any complaint for I know that it will cure them."'

People everywhere are sufferiog from disease when if they- would use Dr. Greene's Nervurfc blood and nerve rem edy they would be cured. If you, reader, have headache, pain in any part, or any pymptorn of nervous or chronic disease take this great remedy and you will be made perfectly well. It is the discovery of Dr. Greene, o. 35 West 14th street, New York, the most successful specialist in curing nervous and chronic diseases. He can be consulted free, personally or by letter.

HIS HAIR BLEEDS.

The Professor Has to Go to Bed After His Flowing Locks Are Trimmed.

Professor Amery is a tailor on Geary street. In appearanoe he is small and alert, with piercing black eyes and finely cut profile. As be walks along the street he looks like any ordinary man, for one does not see that he wears on the very top of his head a large roll of fine black or very dark brown hair. His hat he wears drawn down almost over his ears for fear ourious eyes will find out what a strange and luxurious growth he has.

The way he found out the peculiarity of his hair in bleeding was this: Several years ago he hod his hair cut for convenience and to keep people from looking at him as if be were a museum freak. No sooner was the hair off than he took to his bed, almost completely shattered in health, and was oompelled to stay there until he had gained enough strength to take oare of himself. After that ho let his hair aloue for awhile. Seven mouths ago he was seizod with a desire to cut it off again, and as the result ho was in bod, prostrated and unable to care lor himself. "But I have found out how to manage it now,'' said the long haired man. "Thero is a time of the moon when Hi. hair can be cut without harm. The reason I suffer I have just found out. It is because the hair bleeds. "What is the meaning of that?" "By blooding I mean (hat the

snp

runs out at the ends of the hairs, justas it does in young trees. That

snp,

con­

sidering that my hair grows so fast and long and is so altogether unusual, takes my strength out with it. It reminds you of the Biblical story, doesn't it: Well, it's true, and much on the same lines."

The professor's physique, he said, was still weak from the effects of the last cutting. His hands shook from nervousness, although ho was sitting in his chair quite composed. The professor appears to be in a fix. He cannot have his hair cut because it weakens him, and he cannot let it grow because it takes all of his strength to support it.

Amery was born in Maine some 40 years ago. He had a sister with the same physical trait and two half brothers.—San Francisco Letter.

Ironing.

Thdeecret of easy, rapid and successful ironing is to have the clothes well and evenly dampened and the irons very hot. The dampness prevents scorching, and the hot iron smooths and polishes without the fa tiguing bearing down and repeated passes necessary with one which does not hi?« when touched with the moistened finger. To bring out the pattern of embroideries lay down on a strip of thick blanket and i»on on the wrong side. If the newly washed sheets, evenly folded, are laid one by one under the smaller articles as they are ironed, it will not he necessary to iron them on their own account.

Buckingham's Dye for the Whiskers is the best, handiest, safest, surest, clean est, most economical and satisfactory dye ever invented. It is the gentlemen's favorite.

:NEW FOUND WEALTH.-

Over »li,000 Discovered In an Old German Family Bible. James Pafeman is a wholesale dealer in potatoes who lives on Federal street, Camden. His wife's maiden name was Oberstal, and her mother sold fruit and vegetables for 50 years under the old Market street sheds. She died in 1879, and her daughter was surprised to find how small her savings were, although she had been a very thrifty woman. It was believed, however, that she had given her money to a frolicking spendthrif son, and the matter was forgotten.

Two weeks ago a relative oalled on Mrs. Pateman to ask what had become of the mother's German Bible, saying that it contained the family births and deaths and should be looked up. Mrs. Pateman. after some reflection, remembered that an old trunk contained some' of her mother's clothing and at onoe made a search therein. The Bible was found—a huge folio, 18 inches square —and it contained much besides good precepts, for between the leaves nestled a 5-20 United States bond for $500, with all the ooupons attached, and $750 in legal tender notes. Further search brought to light a nest of gold and notes in a battered old tin tea cady. Some of the eagles are dated 1820, and there are over $50 in $1 pieces.

In all the treasure trove is about $2,100. Mrs. Pateman already wishes she had never seen the money, as about 20 nephews and nieces are going to law for a share of it—Philadelphia Times.

THE" LIBRARY TUNNEL

It Is to Be Used In Transferring the Nation's1,000,000 Books to New guarters.

It is known to only a few that a tunnel is to be constructed from the crypt of the capitol under the east park to the vaults of the great building for the congressional library, now in courso of construction. The plans for the tunnel have been completed, and work upon it Will soon be begun, that it may be finished in season to be used for the transportation of the nearly 1,000,000 booksand pamphlets which make up the vast bulk of the library from the old rooms to the new. It is probable that a temporary railway will be laid in the tunnel, that cars may be employed to carry a large quantity of books at once.

One of the most remarkable transfers of the kind in the history of libraries was that in Berlin some years ago, when a regiment of "soldiers wore put to the work, received their burdens and marched and countermarched under perfect discipline, accomplishing in a short time the vast labor of removal.,

It is possible. that when,-the new building is oecupieda. |)jaeumatio tube: may be laid through ^the tunnel, that 1 congressmen majr1 immediately receive books which- they desire to consult without the trouble and loss of tirile which would be fcntailfed in going to the library in person or awaiting a' trip by a messenger. It ife not Expected that the work of removal Will begin before the spring of i896. —^Washington Cor. Pittsburg Dispatch.

Thousands of patrons -have taken Hood's Sarsaparilla this season and realized its benefit in hlo,od purified and' strength restored.

TO LOOK NICE.

AIL WOMEN DESIRE IT.

Sewe Points About How to Accomplish the Desired End.

[SPECIAL TO OCR LADY READERS.]

It is the most natural wish in life with women to feel well and look nice. It is born with them.

It makes a world of difference to the wee little girl whether or no there is a bit of pretty lace or bright ribbon about her dress or on her hat.

Yes! All women like to look nice. All watch for the least signs of fading.

You have seen

beautiful ladies, and been amazed to know that they have lived fifty or sixty years of life.

Have you ever stopped to ask why the few look so lovely while the many around you are so haggard?

Look into it, and you will soon find them blessed with a perfect and healthy organism.

Above all, you will find that no female complaints have seared their lives no dreadful backache, no irregular periods, no bearing down, or any kind of uterus, ovarian, or womb trouble.

You are not like them now, but you may reach their high level if you will. You suffer, but there is a remedy.

Lydia E. Pink ham'8 Vegetable (.Vimpound is the grandest remedy ever discovered for women. It restores the womb and all irregularities to their natural healthy condition, and makes possible a lovely old age. It cures every form of female complaint, from leucorrhoea to tumors in the womb.

CHOLERA HOGS.

Highest Cash Price paid for

Also Tallow, Bones and Grease

OF ALL KINDS.

At my factory on the Island south west of the city.

Harrison Smith,

"-/V^ T" Office, 13 S. Second St.,

TERRE HAUTE, IND.

TVart Animal* removed free within ten miles of the city. Telephone. 73.