Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 25, Number 11, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 8 September 1894 — Page 3

SSMlagSiiSSl*

DRESS AND FASHION.

DISTINCTIVE COSTUMING A FEATURE OF THE SEASON.

There Are Special Gowns For Every Kind of Function—Dressy Waists, Large Sleeves and Comparatively Plain Skirts Continue

Popular—Attractive Gowns Described.

There never was a season when women could more perfectly master the art of distinctive costuming than this year, for fashion is very liberal, and there is every kind of a gown .for every kind of a function. White is possibly the dominant color in her outfit, as it appears in some form and extent on almost every gown. Drapery and panniers continue to be prophesied, but as yet they adorn the pages in the fashion books more than the gowns. The most popular

NEW EYEXIXG BODICE.

skirts are plain around the hips, flaring at the bottom and full at the back, hanging out in fluted folds, the trimming in most instances being very narrow. Before draperies and fussy skirts find favor there will have to be a radical change in the elaborate waists, for it is an infallible rule of fashion to make one portion of the dress offset the other. If skirts are much trimmed, the bodices are plain, and the reverse is equally true.

Evening gowns are as varied and fan ciful as are the women who wear them. Among the latest materials silk muslin takes the lefd. Evening dresses for dinners and dances are of the embroidered muslins now having such favor, and also of moire and chiffon. Yellow frocks are also made with chiffon and embroidery on moire, on odd brocades of small designs and on taffeta or satin. An evening dress recently seen was noticeable for its original new bodice in rose pink satin, the wide revers being made of white faced cloth and the sleeves of black and white striped silk. These odd sleeves are a novelty which can easily be carried into the grotesque. Very much depends on a sleeve, and failure in this item means failure for the whole dress. On the other hand, a perfectly simple gown often owes its success to a pretty sleeve.

Some new sleeves, especially pretty for diaphanous fabrics, have outlines similar to the popular mutton leg sleeves. They differ, however, in being puffed lengthwise along the forearm in four or five tiny puffs, very narrow at the wrist, then gradually widening above the elbow to the armhole.

An imported traveling costume in alpaca affords a charming model that

FKKNCH TRAVKU"0 008TCMR.

may be made in other materials

desired. Tb* Eton vest is fashioned with revers and shoulder cape. There is a tapering box plait across the waistcoat, which maybe cither wrought with embroidery or be in open gimp over Bilk.

The knotted sash and folded neckbanc! are of velvet.

How to V«l Loaf.

Take three pounds of .real, fat and lean mixed, one-fonrth pound of fat salt pork. Chop the real and pork while raw. Take 6 soda crackers powdered very fine 2 eggs, well beaten a cupful of butter season with pepper and ground clove*. Mix it all together and make into a loaf, like bread, put it into a shallow baking pan with a little water, cover with bits of butter and dredge flour over it Bake it «lowly for two hours, basting it as you would meat This

loaf

is nice cut in thin slices for a

tea dish, and it will keep good for some time.

Before mixing the sponge in the morning dip oat a cup of batter for the cake, or for two cups double the recipe all through, for this makes a large dripping pan cake. For each cup of batter add an egg, a cup of sugar, onehalf cup of butter, a teaspoon soda dissolved in a tablespoonful of warm water, a teaspoonful each of cloves, cinna mon and allspice and flour to make a batter like fruit oake. Then add a cup of raisins, chopped and floured, and bake in a moderate oven. It will keep well if left alone.

FANCY WORK NOVELTtES.*P

In Which Grape Baskets and Old Japanese ^ans Conspicuously Figure.

Do not throw away the grape baskets, but transform them into pr'ei^T home made workbaskets. These little baskets can be made with very little work and at a slight expensa

Select one that is smooth and paint it with several coats of white enamel and then make a pad to fit the bottom of the basket This is made by a piece of card board, with a layer of cotton wool, little sachet powder is an improvement if mixed among the wool. Then out piece of silk, to whatever your lining is, the size of the bottom and a strip of the Bame, a little deeper than the sides of the basket and long enough reach three times around it. Turn the top of this piece down about half an inoh and gather it until it fits the top of the basket Ga ler the lower edge without turning it down and sew it to the squa of silk already mentioned, placing the •whole inside the basket for a lining. Before putting the lining in plaoe run a pink ribbon, 2 or 3 inches Wide, around the basket and tie it in a bow at one sida

Inside the basket place a tiny bag of silk for thimble and thread, fastening at one side, and opposite this place a lit tie "mealbag" cushion of pink silk, fringed at the top and tied with "baby* ribbon. This is for needles. Emery and wax may be tied in one corner if desired

Those who wish to utilize old Japa nese fans can make with them pretty holders for dusters, says The House wife, authority for the foregoing. To make the holdei' you will need besides the fan three yards of ribbon with fancy edge. Remove the rivet which fastens the stioks together, also one of the end or h-vudle sticks. Paste the two sides of the fan together with a little gum, lapping the one from which tl: stick is removed upon the other. Fasten together the long ends of the sticks with a fine wire. From some heavy white pa per cut and paste a funnel shaped piece which will fit nicely inside the fan. drop of gum at the points where the gun touches the paper inside will keep the whole firmly together. Weave the ribbon, which should be about half an inch wide, in and out through tL sticks, finishing with a bow at the poin' Make a full bow and tack upon one sic.u of the fan, leaving-enough for a loop by which to hai'g it

Bent Iron Window Stand.

Attention is called to the new ben? iron window stands for flowers, which ought to be welcome to housekeepers worried with the old fashioned window boxes so troublesome and so expensive to keep in order. By means of thest

WrXDOW STAND FOR FLOWERS.

pretty and artistic decorations the average window oan be made a joy and thing of beeauty with only three plants, said plants being lifted in and out, as required, for watering, sheltering or changa Moreover, the stand itself is really a work of art carried out with especial regard to the position it is to occupy, each pattern being a. separate design, no two being ever exactly alike.

Peach Shortcake.

Mix together a pint of flour, one-half teaspoonful of salt and 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder, rub in one-fourth cupful of butter and mix to a soft dough with sweet milk. Divide into two parts, pat out one-half, put in a buttered, shallow pan butter the top, pat out the other half and lay on the top. This will make the cake split open readily. When done, split open and fill with peaches mashed or chopped fine. Put them on the top of the cake also and pour over the whole whipped sweetened cream.

Mmical Items.

A late invention is an aluminium fin ger board fretted, lettered and bearing position numbers. It is designed to aid students of the violin in acquiring accurate fingering.

Do not let pupils keep up a clicking of nails on the piano keys. Keep the nails Bhort, but give scales and easy studies for the express purpose of feeling the contact of the finger with its key on the ball or tip of the finger somewhat back from the naiL Make a specialty of feeling the plaoe of finger contact, playing only for this feeling.

Scales can be taught the latter part of the first term of lessons to the average pupil, but there needs to be preparation for them in a separate drill of the thmnb in passing under the hand and of the third and fourth fingers in passing over the thumb. It

also well that

the pupil should first feel a need of knowing how to play a run. A girl who oan learn to play the piano can ordinarily learn to play the flute, and if she is delicate in the sense of not having good vital capacity or breathing power flute practice in moderation will do her more good and less harm than piano practice. The breathing exercises of any gymnastic system are to be recommended as preparatory to flute study, and any reliable music dealer oan furnish a good instruction book for the instrument.

It is excellent discipline to practice technical finger work in such positions as require the thumb to play black keys, but in playing everything should be done in ta© easiest possible manner. The pushing of the forearm'forward and backward, as is necessary to get the thumb over the black keys, is an exertion and should be avoided unless something is gained that is of commensurate value. When such again is possible, no rule, by whomsoever made, should ever be allowed to stand in the way of the exertkm.

IfS

CRAPE ON TROLLEY CARS. ?§kS5 That's What They Have In Bingham ton

After One Has Been Killed by Them,

"While reading of the numerous trolley accidents in Brooklyn,'' said Alder man Brandt of Bingham ton a few days ago, 'it occurred to me that Brooklyn lines would do well to adopt a unique oustom which, as far as I know, is pe ouliar to Binghamton car lines. In our city the trolleys oooupy all the principal etreetB, but the motormen are very care ful, and it is Beldom that there is an accident. Last winter, however, a mar was run down and killed. The exoot details of the accident have slipped my memory, but I believe that no blame was attaohed to the motorman.

When that particular oar appeared on the following day, it was a sight to be seen. Long streamers of crape floated dismally out from the sides, black and white rosettes ornamented the spaces between the windows and conduotor and motorman wore badges of mourning. Not only that, but every car on that line was draped with blaok, and all the trolley cars in the city displayed in one way or another some sign of mourning. It was really quite imposing. "If they could only import that idea in Brooklyn," continued the alderman thoughtfully, "I think it would be a long step toward trolley reform. They seem to be reforming everything else but the trolleys there. Draping the oars of each line for, say three days after any unfortunate had met his death on that particular line, would enable people to keep a sort of count, besides be ing a graceful tribute of sorrow on the part of the trolley company. Moreover, the enormous expense for crape to which the companies would be subjected would undoubtedly have the effect of, making the motormen more careful.

ORIENTAL ARMIES.

Military Strength of China and Japan of Special Interest Just Now.

In view of the possible unpleasantness between China and Japan over Korea the following acoount of the military strength of "the two powers is not without interest: The military force of China oonaists of the army of Manchuria, TO, 000 men, many of them armed with the Manser rifle, with a liberal supply of Krupp field cannon the army of the center, 50,000 men, which oan be doubled in case of war the army of Turkestan of uncertain streng#i, employed to maintain order in the extreme western territories, and the territorial army, something like the American national guard, of 200,000 men in time of peace, but which is capable of being raised to 600,000. Her navy oomprises 1 first class battleship, 1 second class, 8 third class, 9 port defense vessels, 9 second class cruisers, 47 third class, 8 first class torpedo boats, 26 second class, 18 third class and 2 smaller boats.

Japan's army on a peace footing is about 66,000, but she has a reserve strength of nearly 200,000. Her fleet is a purely defensive force. It oomprises 6 armored cruisers and 22 third-class cruisers.

Central Agfa In the Nineteenth Century.

Some details of the late Russian explorer Prejevalski's last journey through the difficult wilds of central Asia bare •just reached London. Some of the novel superstitions of the natives are amazing. For instance, orders were given by the native authorities that no one should sell land to the Russians, for the Chinese had assured them that the Russians would plant willow trees, which would grow with enormous rapidity and would claim all the land in shadow.

Another story which was believed was that the natural history oases contained tha eggs of Russian soldiers, which the explorer would hatch out into whole regiment? of troops. General Prejevalski himself was supposed to bear a charmed lif& A more useful myth was that any Russian article if stolen would begin to cry out, "I am here," till it pvas rescued.

TERRE HAUTE SATURDAY EVENING MAIL, SEPTEMBER 8,1894.

"Oh, I tell you, there are lots of things that the bigger cities can learn of Binghamton!"—Brooklyn Citizen.

PEARL HARBOR, HAWAII.

Lieutenant Wood Says It Can Easily Bo Made One of the Finest In the World.

After a stay of six weeks on Ford's island—six weeks of hard work for both officers and rnen:—Lieutenant Wood and his party have returned from Pearl har bor with as complete a set of surveys as it is possible to take. The result shows that Pearl harbor, if taken in hand by the United States, will make the finest possible bay in the world and at an expense which, oompared with the final result, is almost nominal. Lieutenant Wood was asked yesterday in regard to the work accomplished and said: "We have been at the harbor for just six weeks and two days and have in that time made 28 borings and over 1,500 soundings. The survey has been a very complete one, and I have data enough to make a close estimate on the cost of all the work that will be necessary in making the harbor one of the finest in the world. Not apiece of coral has been encountered in the borings, and it would only require a comparatively small amount of dredging to give a depth of 30 feet on the bar at low tide. A peculiar formation of one of the coral banks on each side of the channel was discovered that will be a great help in the work of disposing of the sand as it is dredged out "The more I see of Pearl harbor the more I am impressed with its military and commercial advantages. I have visited all the principal harbors of the world, with the exception of Sydney, and I have never seen any one that can compare in any way with this one. Twenty miles of wharves could be built there cheaper than any other plaoe in the world, as the deep water is so close to the shores. Complete maps and charts of the work done will be made as soon as posible and forwarded to Washington."—Pacific Commercial Advertiser.

Money Is Tight.

And when was it ever otherwise? The oldest man cannot remember. People are grumblers—all grumble—ministers and laymen complain. Well, then, "times are dull, and money is tight," but haven't you got enough to buy a bottle of SOZODONT, to keep your teeth olean, and mouth sweet, and help you enjoy life?

Money may be tight, but it is nothing to Spalding'sGltje. That's the tightest thing out. ... THOSE ROGUISH GIRLS.ft1

I •*.«

In Paterson They Worried a Car Conduotor Until Ho Resigned His Job.

I One of the shortest of New Jersey politicians is authority for the statement that Paterson girls have laughed him out of a job. He is an unusually handsome baohelor of 82 New Jersey winters and is known among his friend* as one of the most bashful men in the state. After the legislature adjourned his political friends got him appointed oonduotor of a Paterson trolley car. All would have gone Well if the silk mill girls hadn't got talking abouthimamong themselves. Their attention was at tracted by seeing the good looking lit tie conduotor jump up to ring the bell or record a fare. This, though only mod erately funny at first, grew in humor as each girl became conscious that other girls were watching him as they rode on his oar from day tdday. They called him "Shorty" among themselves, and Soon it came about that if his car oon tainded any silk mill girls they all smiled in unison whenever a fare was rung up.

At length the bashful fcachelor oon flded his trials to a friend. He was ad vised to hold on to bia oonduotorship through the hard times. Aooordingly he smothered his feelings for a time. One day the traveler got off the trolley wire, and he oouldn't reach the rope that hangs from the arm. The oar was standing still, and it was full of girls who had nothing to do but watch the little conduotor. Every time he jump ed and missed the rope the girls laugh ed.

This was too nluch. When the month ended, he notified the railroad company that he was going to leave to take a job at his former trade.—Paterson Stand ard. ,\,

A JOKE ON THE P. G.

He'd Give a Week's Salary to Know Who.Is Responsible For a Certain Story.

The postmaster general is irate. He wants to know who wrote it. About one week agg a correspondent for a western paper sent out a story to the effect that the postoffice department had decided to furnish a proof of each of the postage stamps issued by the department upon application for same. This item touch ed a responsive chord in the breasts of the great American public and was widely copied. The applications have begun to come in. Several hundred have come in on each mail for the past five days, and the number is increasing.

There is a deluge of this kind of mail matter, and to save the department from being swamped Postmaster General Bissell has been oompelled to order printed a circular setting forth that the department iB not distributing proofs of stamps and has also been oompelled to transfer some of the clerical force of the department from legitimate work to the work of sending these circulars to the stamp applicants. The affair is regarded as a practical joke on the department, but General Bissell didn't regard it in that way when he said to The Star man, "I'd give a week's salary to know who wrote it."—Washington Star.

More Sugar Wanted.

Eugene Field says that it has long been his opinion that the advocates of woman suffrage should abandon the rigorous taotics they have ineffectually used for so long a time and adopt the milder tactics of persuasion. The woman suffrage cause needs less virility and more femininity, less jaundice and more sugar. Bright eyes, pretty complexions, jaunty figures and stylish costumes are, always were, he thinks, and by God's graoe always will be, more potent influences in determining the opinions and actions of men than the keenest wit and the jnost convincing logic.

The Browning Slab.

The slab to cover the grave of Robert Browning in Westminster abbey has juit been oompleted in Venioe. It is of th* oriental porphyry of which the poet WW particularly fond. It has been put Into a frame of Sienna marble, and the whole, though rich, is of the greatest simplicity. The inscription will consist only of the name and the dates of birth ftnjl death, with an English rose at the hekAuid

a Florentine lily below.

That Tired Feeling

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Special attention given to Hydraulic & Hand Power Elevator Repairs

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THURMANC0AL AND MINING COMPANY. BILL OF PARE TODAY. Brazil Block, per ton $2.30 Brazil Block nut double screened.... 2.25 Brazil Block nut single screened 1.25 Otter Creek Lump 2.00 Double Screened Nut 1.75

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