Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 24, Number 47, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 19 May 1894 — Page 6

HATS AND BONNETS.

CHANGES IN HAIRDRESSING THAT AFFECT THE MILLINERY.

Upturned Waving Hair Throws the Bonnets More Off the Face—Fine, Coarse, Hough and Satin Straws Are All In Faahion—OmamTit For Coiffure.

The owners of small, oval faces gain by the uaaulating mode of dressing the hair. Tue undulating mode means deep, heavy wave* throughout the entire thickness of the hair, so that a comparatively small quantity makes quite a respectable bush. This is thrown back loosely from the face and sometimes is raised over small cushions. Of course the undulating process is a tedious one. When the victim cannot afford a hairdresser—but then it need not be done oftener than once a week on most heads, and once waved the hair may be said to dress itself. A quick upward twist around the ball of the thumb, an upstanding loop of hair around which the rest is coiled, the whole fixed in place with three pins of golden tortoise shell, and the matter is ended.

With such a coiffure the latest ornament is a solitaire placed in the billowing waves of hair a little above the forehead, from which springs two curved

A HAIR ORNAMENT,

and tremulous golden wires ending each in the "eye" of a peacock's feather, the colors being represented by different precious stones. A hair ornament suggested by an eminent French authority for evening wear consists of black laco quills and a small osprey. This can hardly fail to be becoming to any face. A studied disarray is tho keynote of tho hairdressing now in vogue. Tho waved hair tumbles over tho ears and is so loosely gathered up at tho nape of tho neck that it seems as if it would escape its pins at ev uy movement.

Of course so distinct a change in hairdressing must affect the hats and bonuots that, as it wore, complete tho artistic handiwork of tho coiffeur. The upturned hair of necessity throws the hats nioro off tho face, and everything points to their becoming larger and moro capricious in shape as tho summer approaches. Tho New York Herald says: "Wide brims of variegated fancy straws, •undulating in almost as many waves as tho hair they partially cover, crowned with nodding plumes, some of which lio on tho hair behind the ears at either rido or with spreading bows of moire relieved by upstanding knots of flowers or aigrots sparkling with jet, aro to be found in tho salons of tho millinors who tune tho orchestra of fashion. Even tho hats that liavo come down to us in tho portraits of tho eighteenth century are hardly more vast and capricious in detail than thoso with which lovely woman apparently intonds to crown horse It this year. And with tho fashionable ooiffuro hats and bonnets will be difficult to wear, for big hats will not bo the only wear, and thero will bo quite a run on toques, which will sit more olosoly on the howl. Spring flowers hold an appropriate sway."

Thero are fine straws and oourse straws, rough straws and satin straws, round straws and flat straws, brown straws and gold straws, without men-

BONNET HAT, LACK HAT. TOtjl'B.

tioning "copeaux" or wood shavings and other various varieties plaited in with real stuff. Thepraof "crin" seems to be reappearing, and the prettiest hats recently seen are of black crinoline, spangled either with jet or steel and trimmed with tufts of frosted feathers or bunches of spring flowers.

A stylish hat in black lace with green -straw crown trimmed with lace, butterfly bow and two tips in front and three behiud, has a vandeau under the brim, with a bunch of flowers. A bonnet hat, with its strings resting ou a rouleau c? velvet, which raises it becomingly fn-« the hair, is trimmed with an upstanding osprey and ostrich plmne. a rwette of hvet* over the forehead, the brim being covered beneath with plaited black lace. A charming toque is edged with feather trimming and is trimmed with a satin bow and bunch of violets,

Fttr Staple Cwams.

Take one-half as much water as maple sugar, cook without -t:rrmg. and when almost done put in a small piece of butter. When it begins to harden, take it off the fire and stir rapidly until It be comes a waxen substance then divide it into Knlls and inclose each ball between two halves of English walnuts or other nuts and put on greased plate to cool.

Hang pictures so that the center ia on level with the average eye.

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DRESS TRIMMINGS.

Stylish Garnitures That May Be Developed In Moire and Satin.

The home dressmaker is dependent often upon her own ingenuity for the trimming of her gowns. Many dainty effects may be obtained by the application of handmade garnitures developed by dexterous fingers. Following are de-

MOIRE SATIN TRIMMINGS.

scriptions of trimmings made in moire and satin, from The Delineator, which will doubtless furnish welcome suggestions to prospective dressmakers:

No. 1 is a simple yet effective decoration in black satin. The trimming is arranged in waved outline by tiny plaits laid alternately at the top and bottom, the plaits being tacked under groups of three jet beads.

No. 2 is a unique trimming made of black moire silk that is caught together to form tabs at intervals, and each tab is outlined th jet. A small cabochon is set over t.ie joining of the tabs and adds greatly to the beauty of the decoration.

A very attractive trimming is No. 8, the material being black satin. The folds are arranged in sharp points, as illustrated, and the points are decorated for some distance with jet beads.

No. 4 furnishes a deeply waved trimming of satin. The fold is plaited for somo distance at the inner edge at intervals to form curves and is held in place by small jet beads.

The Use of the Pedal.

An important point in piano playing is the knowledge of the pedals, which seldom form0 part of the initial training. The sustaining power of the loud pedal is unluown or uncalculated and is often rougnly lited by many who know the use of it. The study of the pedals ought to begin as early as tjjp age of tho pupil will allow. It must become as a third hand, to be carefully practiced together with the other two. It is told in Tho Etude that the pedal is an essential part of the piece and must grow with it. It is an art which becomes habit, and which must be felt and divined more than taught after the genoral rule is known of holding the pedal down as long as notos belonging to the same chord are struck.

Chopin has beon the greatest of all in the use of the pedals. He knew with the utmost perfection all the resources of them. The manner he has marked them in his works shows how much he wantod to impress us with the necessity of a constant practice of them, changing tho pedal almost at every note.

In tho best editions of Schumann's works the pedal is left out almost entirely. That is because one ought to know how use it, being more a matter of feeling than of technical knowl-

The soft pedal may be .used occasionally and with great discrimination otherwise tho effect becomes vulgar and pretentious as an artificial lightness of touch. Bad tastes in this case may go very far. The fingers must bo educated to the utmost delicacy of touch, so as to make use of tho second pedal only ii order to obtain some peculiar effects of shado on a background of semidarkness. In fact, the clumsy handling of this pedal makes such an alteration in the quality of sound that only a finished artist knows its real value and may venture to employ it at all.

The Care of Sponges.

Among th" thousand and one things over which the housewife must keep a watchful eye is the bath sponge. It is an expensive article, to begin with, if ono buys the best, and only tho best are worth buying. When once a sponge ha? become malodorous from want of care, repeated scalding will often fail to make it sweet, but try the ounce of preven tion in the first place. Free it from soapsuds each time after using and hang it where it will dry, and you will never have a sour sponge. In summer dry in the bright sunshine in winter hang neax a stove or register. A wire basket placed near the bathtub and at the same timv near an open window is the best receptacle.

Time Required For Broiling.

Fish, small, thin, 5 to 8 minutes. Fish, thick, 12 to 15 minutes. Steak, 1 inch thick, 4 to 6 minutes steak, 1 inches thick, 6 to 8 minutes chops, 8 minutes cL.ckeus, 20 minutes*

Things Wotnen Want to Know.

French coats fall open in such easy and graceful fashion this season that they arc cr-Ted jackets to distinguish them from the closely fitted coats of last year.

The bolero is the name given several short jackets1 that area feature of French dresses and promise to b© as popular as the Eton jacket of last year.

Black or blue serge makes an excellent dress for hard usage,

Tailors will continue to make long} velveteen or plush, preferably of black coats, as nj^ny women of fashion object Ior •«!.-* to short jackets even for warm weather 1 this arrange your bite of silk, veTvet or ribbon, and applying them use

The shirt wassts made by tmlors ar*

with poxntc^ yoke and are gn h-

cw^jelow the throataiid at the waist or gold braid. Let the pieces in front and back. Tkcy have standing be of as gr&\t a variety of shapes and collara or el^ tosnaed

3!f

taehod to a high standing band that is g^o^ing through givesavery ric-h effect, fastened by two buttons. different from the ordinary patchwork, Checked silks are very fashionable,

TERRE HAUTE SATURDAY EVENING MAIL, MAT 19,1894.

A LIBRARY PARTY.

An Informal Entertainment at Which Each Gneftt Represents Some Book.

The novel idea of a party at which every guest is required to come representing some well known book is worthy of widespread adoption. Perhaps the best way to make this kind of entertainment quite plain is to reproduce the description of a library party as reported for The Household: "The Newcomes''—A young lady with several new fine combs fastened in her hair. The bright idea of the new combs was thought to be the best effort of the evening. "Ivanhoe" (I've an O)—By a man with a gilt O on his breast. "Middlemarch"—Lady with a card fastened to her dress, ,£n which was printed March 16.', Xy-\v

'Fern Leaves''—An elderly man with buttonhole bouquet of fern leaves. "Lamplighter" by a man with stepladder and tapers ready for use. "The Light That Failed" was well shown up by a young lady who carried a candle which was continually going out. "Helen's Babies"—A young lady, Helen by name, carried around three dolls of assorted sizes. "In Silk Attire"—By a lady in a silk dress. "The Pathfinder"—A lady with a guidebook in her hand. "Alice In Wonderland"—A lady, whose name was Alice, was in a chronic state of wonder and surprise at everything she saw. "My Mother and I"—Represented by a mother and daughter walking around together. "My Wife and I"—A man and his wife walking arm in arm.

Each guest was provided with a card on which could be written the names of the books he could make out. A prize was given to the person who guessed the greatest number, and also to the oir who guessed the least. A prize was awarded to the one who made the best representation of a book.

Many other subjects may be found by studying a catalogue of books, as, "Roughing It," "Dust," "Hard Cash," "Dollars and Cents," "Five Little Peppers," "Watch and Wait" and many more.

Baby's Cot Qnllt.

It is simply made, this pretty coverlet, beneath which baby is nestled in such a bewitching fashion, and it may be either elegant or'inexpensive, as fancy and mean? dictate. Spotted muslin —the kind with large snowy wafers sprinkled over a sheer surface—is chosen for its making. The coverlet, to be attractive, should have a lining of silk or sateen, cut the size and shape requ' ed. Over this tho flaky muslin is laid, securely tacked and finished about the edges with a ruffle of white lace. The decoration for this quilt is given by using each spot as a center for a daisy or star, which is worked in colored silks. A fluff of Tom Thumb ribbon added here and there gives the quilt a still more festive air. Embroidery silks and ribbons should of course match the tint of the lining. Soft flannel cot quilts, with pretty pink edges and scallops, are warm and snug, and elaborate fancies in white satin sheeting, frilled around with embroidered white silk ruffles, are most effective, says Golden Days.

Fashions In Gloves.

The fancy for light gloves continues. Pearl gray undressed kid gloves lightly stitched with blaok and fastened by four buttons are worn at afternoon receptions, day weddings, for calling and at the theater. White gloves are preferred for evening wear. Yet many find these light colors unbecoming, as they make the hands look larger, and they use instead tan or gray suede gloves both for day and evening and with dresses of ell colors. Moucquetaire gloves are best liked in soft suede and are also used in long glov^ of dressed white or pearl colored kid. For shopping, traveling and general wear in the morning the preference is still for heavy kid glove? of raddish tan or oak color, fastened by four large buttons. Outing gloves of white wash leather will be worn again in tho summer, made in sack shape, loose on the wrists, or else closely buttoned, says Harper's Bazar.

The Triumph Chair.

Modern Prisoilla tells how one woman fitted up a very comfortable chair, which was so greatly admired that it ,came to be called a "triumph chair." Take a strong piece of ticking for the background of a size large enough to

CHAIR WITH PATCHWORK COVER.

throw over a chair like the one shown here—an old steamer chair, or any chair, in fact, that has become shabby. Cover it on the back with dark muslin and on the front with a piece of velvet,

op of tia

OJp

ttouliolmconch around the edges

colors as posnble, The dark background

A picce Qf

Moire silks and ribbons are in great used as a background for the center ^mmii stripe and a better quality for the sides.

A4FMT

cheap or $»U velveteen can be

ON THE BATTLEFIELD.

The sun rose over the field of wheat And war jaed the breath of an early spring. The smiling flowers made the morning sweet.

And there were caroling birds to sing. And by the brook were children at play. Planning their childish games for the day.

Bat the sun sank over afield of red, #$ Leaving no wheat nor a farmhouse there. Only the ghastly lines of the dead

And blackness and ruin everywhere, rfjjl And along the brook, instead of play, Were the silent forms of blue and gray. -F. H. Sweet.

Wine In Bottles.

The increase of the strength of wine by keeping depends upon whether it is kept in cask or bottla If stored in cask, there is a constant increase of aloohol. The ancients knew that wine improved if kept in leathern bottles, and the same result is obtained by keeping

in wood

en vessels, for both leather and wood are more easily penetrated by water than by alcohol. Evaporation ensues from both, but more freely from water, and the wine consequently becomes richer in alcohol. On the other hand, the opinion that wine has grown old in bottles and therefore become stronger is thoroughly false. Evaporation is very much hindered by the cork, even when this is not covered with rosin and sealing wax. The simple explanation of our finding old bottled wine rich in alcohol is that only the stronger wines can be preserved and the weaker ones cannot resist the effects of time. At the same time, although all wine must eventually be spoiled and weakened by keeping it in bottles, yet some kinds acquire, as a first consequence of that cause which afterward destroys them, and which is neither more nor less than the chemical alteration in their constituents, properties which render them more agreeable both to smell and taste.—Brooklyn Eagle.

Uniforms to Scare the Enemy.

According to the report prepared by the war department, red uniforms wero first adapted by the Emperor Valerius Maximus in order that the Roman soldiers might not be frightened by the sight of their own blood. To this day the children of England are told that this is the reason why French troops wear red trousers, and French children are taught the same notion respecting the red coats of the British. The legionaries of ancient Rome wore the skins of bears on the field of battle to make them look fierce. For the same reason they put figures of frightful beasts on their shields and helmets. From this odd custom springs modern crests and armorial bearings. The idea of scaring tho enemy by such devices has been perpetuated up to quite recent times. Tall bearskin hats wore originally adopted to make them look taller by the French cuirassiers, each of whom carried a handful of grenades for scattering among the ranks of their foe.—Troy Times.

Snn Spots.

It has been observed that after the sun spots have been at a minimum the summers are hotter, just as though there was more heat coming from the sun at such periods, and the fact has been accounted for by supposing that sun spots are caused by vast clouds of matter erupted from the sun and condensed in the surrounding space. These act as screens and prevent the sun's heat from radiating freely through them. From an examination of statistics A. B. McDowall, M. A., has found that in England during the hot summers, following the minima of sun spots, the month of August is hotter than July, an effect due, in all likelihood, to accumulation of the heat —American Register.

The Giant Guards.

The distinction of having the greatest number of tall men in one company belongs to the First battalion of the Scots rruards. The "A" or right flank company of that battalion has ovfer 90 men on its roll, and their average height is 6 feet inches. There are 12 men in the company over 6 feet 4 inches, and one stands slightly over 6 feet 7 inches. No individual member of the company is less than 6 feet in height.— London Court Journal.

Workmen's Tools of Moses' Time.

A collection of tools used by workmen in building the pyramids of Egypt that is owned by a famous Egyptologist indicate that many tools credited to modern ingenuity were in use when Moses was troubling the pharaohs. It is also announced that a furnace has been unearthed .somewhere along the Nile in which hot blast was used centuries before the modern Neilson formulated the same idea.—Age of Steel.

It is put forward as one proof of the change of climate in England within the past centuries that fig trees bore fruit In the Deanery garden, at Winchester, is a fine old fig tree from which James I picked fruit in 1628. At West Tarring, in Sussex, a large fig tree still stands, said to have been planted by Thomas a Becket

An impure condition of the blood and an irritated state of the nerves which arises from it are common causes of sleeplessness. Thus it is that in disorders of the liver want of sleep and bad dreams are very common. I

Louis Kossuth did not like the name by which Faneuil hall is known. Said he, "I do not like the idea that you call this place 'the cradle of liberty,' for cradle scents of mortality, and liberty is immortal. 'f

Jgj .— ',-: Newton abandoned the idea of pub llahing several of his works for fear of criticism. They were left in manuscript and were published after his death.

Neither Gray, Fielding near Akenside ever sat for a portrait, and their features are known to later times by pictures painted from memory.

Tfordi, the great French dramatist, wrote 800 dramatic pieces between the years 1600 and 1637.

They Want Names.

The Russell Art Publishing Co., of 928 Arch street, Philadelphia, desire the names and address of a lew people in every town who are interested in works of art, and to secure tuem they offer to send FREK, "Cupid Guides the Boat," a superbly executed water color picture, size 10 13 inches, suitable for framing, and sixteen other pictures about same size, in colors, to any one sending them at once the names and address of ten persons (admirers o" tine pictures) together with six. two cent stamps to cover expense of mailing, etc The regular price of these pictures is $1 00, but they cau all be secured free by any person forwarding the names and stamps promptly

NOTK—The editor of this paper has already received copies of above pictures and considers tbem really "Gemsof Art."

The Kight For Sleep.

Man, in common with most of the animal creation, has aocepted the plain suggestion of nature that the approach of night should imply a cessation of effort If he ignores this principle, his work is done against inherited habit and so far with additional fatigue. It follows, too, that he must use artificial light and sustain its combustion at tho cost of his own atmosphere. Naturally, therefore, when he does rest, his relief is not proportioned to his weariness.

As in many cases, however, sensation is not here the most reliable guide to judicious practice. Established custom affords a ls*r truer indication of the method most compatible with healthy existence. The case of the overworked and the invalid lends but a deceptive color to the argument of the daylight sleeper. In them excessive waste of tissue must be made good, and sleep, always too scanty, is at any time useful for this pui jose.

For the healthy majority, however, the old custom of early rest and early waking is certain to prove in future, as returns of longevity aud common experience alike snow that it has proved in the past, most conducive to health and active life.—London Lancet

Charity at a Pawnshop.

A man who had been to his uncle's said: "No one can claim that charity is not widely distributed in this city after seeing the contribution boxes that are hung up in conspicuous places in the smaller of the pawnbrokers' shops. The particular relative to whom I spoko of it told me that the little boxes wero put up every year about the beginning of the autumn and generally were for the benefit of somo Hebrew charity. "They are taken down just before the holidays, and he said that for the past 10 yeai's the one in his shop had averaged between $12 and $15, mostly in 5 and 10 cent pieces, although once the agent had found a $5 piece in it 'One doesn't look for much charity among persons who have to pawn their goods,' he said, 'but I've seen the very poorest class of me*, and women look at the box with interest and then drop something into it'"—New York Mail and Express.

An Inference.

Cora—You want me to describe my friend, Miss Pleiners? She's a charmingly vivacious and witty girl, an excellent conversationist, accomplished, bright and intellectual.

Tom (disappointed)—Oh, pshaw 1 Why didn't you tell me she was ugly in tho first place.—Chicago Record.

Money is Tight.

And when was it ever otberwis-e? The oldebt man cannot remember. People are grumbleils—all grumble—ministers and laymen complain. Well, then, "times are dull, and money is tight," but haven't vou got enough to buy a bottle of SOZODONT, to keep your teeth clean, and mouth sweet, and help you enjoy life?

Money may be tight, but it is nothing to SPALDING'S GLUE. That's the tightest thing out.

The Natural Death.

Tho natural death is no

Utopian

dream. Both longevity and euthanasia are within the reach of mankind. Not a few have already secured both, while many more may find them. I have seen the man. He was old. He had neither pain, anger nor sorrow. Finally his intellect began to lose its power. His ambition changed to a desire for repose. His ideas of space, time and duty lingered for a moment, then passed away. Step by step his powers waned. Happily, painlessly, carelessly the moments flew. The merry sounds of youth at play and the hum of the busy world only rocked him gently to sleep. On and on he passed until his intellect ceased and consciousness was no more This is the true euthanasia. It suggests no terror it inflicts no pain it brings no agony. —Dr. J. Hobart Egbert in Dietic and Hygienic Gazette.

Care Yourself.

Don't pay large doctor's bi 1 Is. The best medical book published, 100 pages, elegant colored plates, will be sent you on receipt of three 2 cent stamps to pay postage. Address A. P. Ordway, fc Co., Boston, Mass.

Now In the Tims

To select a place, figure on a route and complete arrangements for your next summer's vacation. The maps, tim? tables and guide books issued by tbe WISCONSIN CENTRAL LINES and containing a list of tbe most beautiful and healthful resorts in tbe northwest, will a*si«t you materially in doiog this Thev are mailed free upon application toJas Pood. Genl. Passt Agt,, Mil waukee, Wis. Send for them

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Mail.

OhSefcotter Chemical iMriSn^W.

J)B. H. C. MEDCRAFT, W 3DE3STTXST. Office—McKeenl Block, northwest corner Seventh street and Wataah avenue.

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AN AMERICAN QUEENS

AND HER FOUR DAUGHTERS. A Scene on the 3 O'clock Express Between Boston and Worcester, Mass.

[81-SC1AI. TO OUR LADY READERS.J

It was a pretty sight. The passengers turned around in their seats to better note the something unusual

A noble

looking woman h.iden-g tered the car, followed by four daughters, ageing from fifteen to twenty years. The mother had one of those good and wholesome faces that one so rarely sees, but that ijien and women always a dmire. The daughtershad the same healthy, wholesome look.

They were well born, well eared for, and, it

doubt, never suffered from any of the ills that curse many women. Mothers owe a duty to their daughters that, in too many cases is neglected.

Nature has provided a time for purification, and if the ehnniielsareobstrncted,the entiresysteni ispoisoned and misery comes.

Mrs. ("has. Mines of Duucannon, Pa., a woman of large experience, in speaking of a mother's duty, says: Watch carefully your daughters' physical development. "iMol hers should see that nature is assisted, if necessary, toperform its office, and keep their daughters well informed as to matte rs concerning themselves." 1 regularities, whatever cause, are sure indicationsof organic trouble. With irregularities come disturbance of the stomach and kidneys.

Violent headaches often attack tho victim, pains shoot, everywhere. Extremeirritability follows quickly, and then utter despondency overwhelms the already overburdened life. Unless the obstruction is removed at once, your daughter's whole future will be darkened.

Lydia E. Phtkham's Vegetable Compound will accomplish the work speedily. It is the most effective remedy for irregular or suspended action known.

tZ DOLLARS 3 PER DAY 20

Easily Made.

We wnnt muny men, women, boye, imd girl.-' (o work for us a few hours dully, right Inimd urftirul theirown homes. Tho business is ensy, jili'iimm, strictly honorable, find pays belter thnn any other offered agents. Yon have clenr field and no competition. Kxperience mid epochi! nblllf» unnecessary. No capital r"iulri'd. Wc equip you-, with everything that yo'i iif'd, treat you well, and help you to earn 1 times ordinary wages. Women do as well

u.h

men, anil boys and girls-

make good pay. Any one, anywhere, can do the work. All succeed who follow our plain mid simple directions. Earnest work will surely bring' you a great deal of money. F.verythlng lx new and In great demand. Write for our pnmj.hlet circular, and receive full information. No harm done if you conclude not to go on with the business.

Georce Stiwson&Co.,

Box 488,

PORTLAND, MAINE.

WALL STREET!

To Operate SUCCESSFULLY In WALL STREET

Join our Co-Operntlve K. 21. Stock Syndicate. 100 to COOper ccnt. per annum easily made, and wlthotitrlsk.

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for

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Market letter," niftllcd fr-io. 1 .^hest roinronce.

WEINMAP

& DO,,

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Tot Ttescriphye [y rubles AS

.4S£KK=!t

No. 41 Broadwr C,':y,

IF YOU ARE,

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SOIFILT TFTIS

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WHL72 C.PATRORE E. PA. IM(/MLLEQFTOJFMLLE%GI /ORFSLSMMCRJFTFI'

FIFTFIEGTILE C0/&T IHDFIHRLDA

A POOR SHOT.

Mar mis* the target, hot no one need miss thg enjoyment of a Hammer Gating wblie tbe Wisconsin Central offers so man/ Inducements to the Health-Seeker, Hunter and Fisherman.

POND

.Genl. Pa»f fryti

utwAun«. wiJ.

JAMES A. NISBET.

UNDERTAKER,

29 NORTH FOURTH STREET, All calls will receive tbe most careful At-., ten lion. Open day and eight.

"IsTiV.'*