Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 24, Number 35, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 24 February 1894 — Page 6

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NEW YORK FASHIONS.

HINTS FOR THE SPRING MONTHS. SOME NEW MATERIALS.

Tilt Return of *11«» SJ irts—.Stvli !i Woolen ami SKI

)ri

-us IV.brics—New Gowns,

iiK-liKiinc On«- «r Hritle# and One For ili alfsmahu.

«i:* ^makers agree that

the 'rroaies' •'. in woman's dress diir.i!^ rhe iii'4 spring will be in the di.i .ioa of fio:.!ie skirts, looped or pl u:i. Yli! .•)!'• w. seen also the slashed lar .s, v/i-.n f.-r.Iike plaitings inserted ia ilie sla^h?s, sleeves will continue te be fashirijutblc. ,:nd there is no sign yet of the th p..' nre of round waists. F«r the full sleeve most women will be grateful, for in spite of ridicule it must ba confessed that they are becoming.

The return of double skirts, which aeeraa to be one of the fixed facts in spring dress, draws attention at tmce to combinations of material. Such arrangements have been very popular during the winter, where shimmering satins and rich moires have been draped with the lightest gauze*, but it is not yet certain

WALKING COSTUME.

tfc»t we are on the eve of any such ultra ohango in street dress as the combination ®f silk and wool.

The new woolen dress goods imported for spring aro not characterized by any •otevvorthy change in wear and style, and many of them would not lend themgelvea gracefully to a combination with gilk. If the revival of cashmere, which fa predicted from abroad, is accomplished, we may in ho near future seethe revival of the silk underskirt, with its draperies •f soft wool. The new cloths are soft, Eeecy woolens and worsted weaves, similar to the hop sackings of last season. There is a decided tendency, however, to a closer, firmer weave of cloth. Diagonal twills and fantiy diagonal woolens of 90ft, silken quality are prominent in the season's importations. There are also abepherd's checks of soft Scotch wool and many silk and wool mixtures. There ara also worsted cloths which have all tlbe glimmer of ailk mixture.

A simple way of introducing the effect of a doublo skirt in a woolen dress is to aa&ke it up over a foundation skirt of aiik instead of lining the skirt with silk. The foundation skirt is faced to the depth of five inches with velvet, and the upper

RKCKPTIOK DKESS.

skirt, of wool is made two inches shorter a«d finished with a simplo hem, headed by rows of machine stitching, but left to kang without drapery. Simple trimmings of velvet and passementerie cord, with sometimes a touch of metal, finish the gown.

Four gowns illustrated and described i« the New York Tribune, from which the foregoing is reproduced, present the latest styles. Each has a variation of tbo looped or double skirt. The first figmre shows a stylish walking dress with a skirt already popular. The second is a dinner or reception dress whose skirt of black lace is looped with knots of satin ribbon on the hips, over a skirt of rich silk or satin, in black or color.

HitlilU of Music Pupils.

The success of the student of music de pends largely upon habits formed at the beginning of that study, and it depends mostly upon the teacher whether these kabts be good or bad. If good, the •indent's advancement will be steady: bn if bad he is very unfortunate. The art of acquiring a good touch, correct fingering, phrasing, etc., becomes babitmalonly by careful, painstaking practice, under a good teacher. If this habit of eareful and regular practice become® formed at the beginning of the student's musical studies, bo lias won half the battt«, and his future success will be most certain. A wrong beginning baa been the cause of more failures than any other circumstance.

Parting the hair straight down th« middle of the head haa an aging «ffwt oa women who practice it.

THE SCIENCE OF DRAPING.

Th» SimplxKt of A11 Schemes Is th* Graceful Triangle lrapery.

Very effective and very useful, but the simplest of all schemes for draping, is what is known as the triangle drapery. It will serve for windows or doors, for mirrors or piano backs, or for any space

TRIANGLE DRAPERY.

that might be beautified by a drapery. The point to be borne in mind is the law of proportion. What would be a correct mantel drapery would be an absurdity Over a high door, and vice versa, and consequently the first thing to be done is to make a mock drapery of anything at hand and to stand back from that and well observe the effect.

A window 6 feet wide by 10 feet 0inches is supposed to require a length of about 8J yards. In depth most draperies require about double the depth it is meant to finish. To arrange this long strip, lay it first upon the floor, the wrong side uppermost draw a chalk (A B) across the center from to and from to mark 56 inches from E to and from to measure 3 feet. Draw lines between all these points. Should it be desired to have the drapery without fringe, it is now ready to draw up, but it should be completed by a fringe. This must be sewed from I to J, then right across to K, finishing at L. Next take a strong linen thread, run it through each of the dotted triangles, draw tightly and fasten it off behind the rosette.

The drapery is now complete. For fixing it to its place there are various ways. Supposing there is a pole, the curtains could be put on a tape or cord behind the pole and the drapery fixed with three pinhooks to three of the rings, or the curtain could be fixed in the usual way—to the wings—and the drapery in front of them. But should there be no pole fixed, the simplest way is to fix a lath of pine about three inches broad above the architrave of window, from which the curtains are suspended, and the drapery tacked in front. Should the rosettes seem too prominent, they can easily be drawn in, explains The Housewife, authority for the foregoing useful directions.

Boiled Chlckeu.

When a chicken is to be boiled, place a few slices of lemon on the breast, wrap in a buttered paper and then in a floured cloth and see to it that it simmers very slowly. Always accompany with boiled pork or ham and serve a parsley, cream, celery, oyster or mushroom sauce with it. In boiling a chicken after making any of the above sauces there will still be sufficient liquid for an excellent soup, which may bo thickened with rice, oatmeal or barley.

Fashionable Gloves.

Gloves have changed in style and manner during the past few years. It is no longer the correct thing to wear close fitting gloves except for evening use, and the "swagger" thing is to have gloves as comfortable and loose fitting as possible, Anew fad is to have the stitching on the gloves the same color as your dress.

A special novelty is of suede, lined with milanese silk, the leather and lining being skillfully cut together, so as to make the glove practically one. The tan, made in all shades, is most effective also in black, lined with cardinal. Another make of best brussels kid of the softest texture is of a brown shade, stitched in pale pink, the pearl buttons being care| fully chosen to match the dainty stitching. The same can be had in black and gold, whilo a 'pale gray, with maize stitching, was most charming.

For evening wear the Paris suede are useful. They range from 2 to 20 button length and are of the most delicate shades in mouse color, pale browns and heliotrope. For elegance and dainty fit the suede glove reigns par excellence, though less durable and more expensive than the ordinary kid. To driving ladies the brown lambskin, with knitted wool tops, lined throughout with fleecy wool, should prove a great boon. They are of the strongest make and should outlast three or four of the ordinary dogskin.

Parsnip Fritters.

Boil 4 or 5 parsnips until soft, peel and mash them very fine, add to them a teaspoonful of flour, an egg well beaten and a little salt. Make the mixture into small cakes and fry them on both sides a delicate brown in boiling butter or beef drippings. Serve them very hot on a napkin or hot dish, according to your taste.

It Is Well t* Remember

That a clean apron worn while hanging the clothes helps keep them clean. That a pair of white gloves or mittens are a comfort to hands taken from hot suds to hang clothes in zero weather also a close fitting jacket and hood to keep one from catching cold.

That the line, as soon as its duty is ended, should be reeled up and placed in a bag until next time.

That clothes when brought in should be separated and folded at once. If ai-: lowed to lie together, many wrinkles ac-j cumulate.

That clothes carefully folded and sprinkled are half ironed. That dish towels and common towels can be ironed just as well in half the time if folded together once as if ironed singly.

That sheets folded across, bringing the wide and narrow hems together, then folded again, then ironed across both •Idea, are finished quickly and look as well aa if more time were spent on them.

That pillow slips should be ironed lengthwise instead of crosswise if one wishes to iron wrinkles out instead of tn.—Good Housekeeping.

NEW HANDKERCHIEF8.

Styles In Fashion For General Us* and Dress Occasions.

The handkerchiefs in vogue for evening use are dainty bits of lace or silk gauze, those of real point or duchess with center of finest linen lawn still remaining the favorites for a bride or to put the finishing touch to an elaborate toilet, especially when the latter has a garniture of similar lace. The handkerchief of silk gauze is usually pure white or of a creamy hue, but the delicate ^tints of pink, yellow,' ecru and heliotrope are favored. The edge is embroidered in white or colored floss silks, and one variety displayed has a narrow hemstitched border with a row of the silk embroidery just above it.

The fancy white or tinted china and japan silk handkerchief for ordinary use can be purchased always for almost any price from 19 cents upward, and comes with the plain hemstitch, an added initial, or with embroidered finish of white or colored silks. However, it is not so much liked as a similar article of linen, and it is sure to lose its whiteness or original tint when laundered.

The shops are constantly offering some special lot of this both useful and ornamental part of the wardrobe at a reduction in price, and if one is on the lookout for opportunities the purchase can be effected at much lower rates than ordinarily.

For general use or dressy occasions the fine linen or linen lawn handkerchief, with dainty border of lace or embroidery, is preferable. White is always recommended as in good taste, but the delicate tints are permissible when desired to match some particular shade of dress or ribbons. Upon the white handkerchief a narrow finish of open work embroidery is a present fashion, lending a pretty and modest effect to the square of linen or lawn.

Nothing is so serviceable as the strong linen hemstitched handkerchief, with or without initial letter, as the personal fancy may dictate. It comes costing from 12 to 50 cents, according to its quality and the style of the embroidered initial, and it will last during two or three years of hard usage.

The handkerchief is carried in the large or small belt bag, one style of which has a pocket on the outside especially for the article in question, or it is thrust into the belt when it is particularly handsome or choice.

The small members of the family are not neglected, and dainty morsels of linen and batiste or the fine linen lawn are shown with narrow edge of needlework or a plain hemstitch. For school or general use the white handkerchief figured in colors or with colored border can be found and is liked for boys, who always decry anything feminine in appearance.

All handkerchiefs are purchased at a reduced rate if taken by the box, six or twelve coming in a box.

For Middle Aged Women.

Older women are coming back to that /smart style of outdoor garment which is second to none for grace and comfort— namely, a sort of loose overall, made in silk or velvet or cloth, which, when on, is dress and mantle in one. All that is needed is that, if it is intended for walking, the skirt should be cut sufficiently short to escape the ground. For good country wear, women are having macintosh, instead of leather, round the foot of their skirts, and this is an improvement. It is lighter and less cumbersome.

The Large Cravat Bows.

A fashion introduced into New York from Paris is that of the large cravat bow. These bows are made of wide ribbon or of bias moire, that is first passed I around the neck, then tied below the chin with long hanging ends edged with lace. They were at first worn inside the coat or cloak, to be displayed when the garment is opened in the house or in the theater, but the tendency is growing to wear them outside of the wrap when in the street. Among the imported bows those most liked are of black moire rib-

THE POPULAR CRAVAT BOW.

bon or bias moire three-eighths of a yard wide, folded like a stock, then tied in two large drooping loops, very closely strapped, with ends hanging low over the bust and finished either with mechlin or venise guipure lace of deep ecru tint.

In addition to the foregoing, Harper's Bazar describes other bows of great size to wear with house dresses. These latter are called Hncroyable, and also Robespierre bows, and made of satin ribbon of a gay bright color 8 or 10 inches wide. Such a bow is broad and stiff rather than drooping, each of its two tightly strapped loops pointing horizontally from under the chin, and it is without hanging ends. It is attached to a stock or wrinkled collar of the same ribbon that is ornamented in the back with a rhinestone buckle. The stock is hooked in front under the bow. These bows give novelty and variety to simple gowns and are easily made at home.

TERRE HAUTE SATURDAY EVENING- MAIEf FEBRUARY 24, 1894.

SPRING NEEDS-

WHAT EVERYBODY REQUIRES AT THIS SEASON.

Some Things Ar«s of the Utmost Importance to You—This Will Tell You Just What You Most Need Now and How to

Get It.

In the spring changes always take place iu our systems which require at tention. There is a tired, languid feeling, a depression, the digestive organs become deranged, tlie blood is bad, cans ing the complexion to become affected and the person feels an inability to work

At such a time a spring medicine i.« absolutely necessary. It will overcome all these conditions. It will invigorate the blo. d, regulate the digestive organs, clear the complexion and make you feel strong and well. The following letter written by Miss Nettie Fraser, of Paterson, N. J., will interest you. "Since my childhood I have been extremely nervous, easily excited and at times suffering with extreme nervous prostration. A year ago last June I was so bad that the attacks were almost hysterical, and my appetite and digestion were in a terrible condition. also suffered with great mental depression.

1IISS HBTTIJS FRASBR.

"I was iuuuced to try Dr. Greene's Nervura blood and nerve remedy and the first bottle had a wonderful effect on my condition. After four bottles were used I was entirely cured. I never used any medicine that helped me so much, and I would recommend it in the highest terms possible, as too much cannot be said in praise of this wonderful medicine." vVe are constantly receiving just such letters tailing of the great goo which is being done by this medicine. You want health don't you? You want to get up in the morning and feel like doing a good day's work, do you not? And you want your children to feel strong and vigorous, don't you Well, Dr. Greene's Nervura blood and nerve remedy will do all this.

It will give to you and your children perfect health and that is exactly what you want. It is the best spring medi cine known and has the great advantage of being purely vegetable and harmless. It was discovered by Dr. Greene, of 35 West 14th street, New York City, the most successful specialist in curing nervous and chronic diseases. He can be consulted free of charge, personally orbyletletj

NOW A DESERTED VILLAGE.

Virginia City, Nev., Once Gay and Prosperous, Rapidly Falling to Ruins.

"A poet could write on 'The Deserted Village' witU Virginia City as a subject and surpass Goldsmith's immortal production on the same topic," said E. L. Hearne of San Francisco to a GlobeDemocrat man. "The first time that 1 was ever there the population of Virginia City was greater than that of the entire state now. Everything ran wide open. Magnificent hotels and opera halls, palatial residences, stores that would have done credit to New York, millionaires who spent money freely, maintaining a society that for brilliancy and gayety could net be equaled in the United States. I was there a short time ago. The hotels and opera houses are closed, the residences empty, the stores removed to other and more prosperous places. Dwellings that cost hundreds of thousands of dollars are given over to the bats, and the broken panes of glass, the shutters hanging upon a single hinge or flapping in the wind, give a grewsome sense of loneliness. In years to come it will afford magnificent spectaclcs of ruins, and even now in some sections of the town there is a sense to the beholder of being in a city of the past. Millions were made and lost, and the history of Virginia City won Id be one of the most thrilling stories ever written."—St. Louis GlobeDemocrat. .—a-

Picture Owners Getting Tired.

The owners of works of art not only in England, but throughoat Enrope, complain of the injustice of the increasing demands for the loan of their treasures for international, national and local exhibitions, says a New York Son correspondent. The pictures just returned from Chicago are wanted immediately for Vienna and then for Antwerp. English owners are openly talking of refusing. To refuse to lend seems churlish, however, and might prove damaging to the xeputation, not merely of individual artists, but of the British school. On the other band, if the owners lend whenever they are asked they never have possession of their own pictures. The Royal academy will probably soon consider the dilemma.

Happy and Hungry.

For over five years I was a constant sufferer with that most terrible and annoying disease, dyspepsia. After paying out hundreds of dollars, the only medicine I found that would do nee any good was Sulphur Bitters. Six bottles cured me. No* I can eat well and am bsppy and hungry.—[Editor.

DEATH THROUGH A KISS.

WUl* Caressing His Grandchild the Old Man Inhaled a Hair Which Killed Him.

It was a joyous company of jg. middle aged and aged people who congregated at ti\e home of Mr. and Mrs. Samuel Larkin in Susquehanna, Pa. They met in honor of the fiftieth wedding anniversary of their host and hostess, who had passed their allotted threescore years and ten and were still in the enjoyment of perfect health.

Several sweet faced, langhing grandchildren were present to contribute their share of sunshine to the occasion. Little 5-year-old Mary Edwards, with her bright blue eyes and light tresses, was there. After kissing her grandmother affectionately she sprang upon her grandfather's lap, exclaiming, "Grandpa, I have lots of kisses and a bear hng for you."

Then the old man pressed the sweet face of his favorite grandchild to bis. fervently remarking: "God bless you, Mary. No company would be complete without you. You are the embodiment of sunshine itself, and I trust you will grow to be a noble woman." "Tell me how much you love me, grandpa," said the child, "and then 1 will give you the kisses and the bear hug." "I cannot tell you how much I love you, child," answered the old man. •"but I can assure you it is a big lot."

Then Grandfather Larkin imprinted kiss after k'ss upon the ruby cheeks, and the child, delighted at the manifestation of affection, returned the compliment, and then, throwing her littlv arms about the old man's neck, gave the promised *'bear hug." She then crawled down from grandpa's lap and busied herself for a time among others of the company. An hour later, and just before the joyous party were about to partake of dinner, the same little Mary approached her grandfather, remarking, "Grandpa, I want to give yon one more kiss bei'oro dinner, and then 1 want you to sit by me at the table."

The old man smiled and lifted the little girl in his arms. Two minutes later he felt a tickling sensation in his throat and realized that in returning the last kiss a hair had caught in his mouth and been sucked into his windpipe.

This immediately produced hard fits of coughing, and before relief could be obtained a blood vessel was ruptured, and death resulted instantly.

Consternation reigned for a time, and the aged partner of the unfortunate septuagenarian, overcome with grief, fell in a swoon. She rallied an hour later, but it is thought her great grief will cause her death in a short time.—New York Herald.

Buddhism In Paris.

A fresh propaganda of Buddhism is being undertaken in Paris, says a correspondent. It is asserted that 30,000 Parisians now profess the ancient religion. J£any well known women describe themselves as eclectic Buddhists. A little volume gives a summary of the doctrines of the new creed. It has just been printed, and large numbers have been bought by wealthy neophytes and will be distributed next week among all classes. The converts are not expected to desert the churches of which they are members. The copies of the book have been bound in black morocco, gilded to resemble prayer bo'oks.

It Will Not .Straighten Teeth, But SOZODONT will vitalize and beau tiiy them, and im^jart a delicious fra grance to the breath. This preparation, in use so lonu has not one enemy. It is a perfect Ctesar of a Wash. It came, saw, and conquerred. Its sale is widening every year, and will continue. When introduced on the toilet, It remains.

Spaulding's Gmjk is a Cjesar and a Holder wherever it comes.

WHAT ARE THE^"BLUES"?

Woman's Color is an Unfailing Thermometer.

[SPECIAL TO OUH LADY KKADKKS.]

A woman's thermometer is her color. She is red with embarrassment or seine deep emotion: she is white with fright she is supposed to be green with envy but when she is blue it means that she is sick.

It is not the fault of 1 he woman if she has the blues

miue?

and that want-to-be-let-alone feeling. It is the fault of her condition which makes happiness impossible.

No woman can be happy and lighthearted when painful female complaints crush out her life.

If she is melancholy, excitable, nervous, dizzy, or troubled with sleeplessness or fainting spells, they are symptoms of serious female weakness.

A leaf out of the experience of Mrs. Anna Miller, who lives at Duhring, Pa., shows that Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound will cure that terrible weakness and bearing-down pain ^n the abdomen, the dizziness in the hear!, the feeling of irritability, and loss of appetite.

I can highly recommend your Vegetable Compound," she writes," for all female complaints. It's my greatest friend."

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