Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 24, Number 33, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 10 February 1894 — Page 6

BONNETS AND GOWNS.

STYLES WITH INTIMATIONS CONCERNING SPRING FASHIONS.

Thing* at the Dressmaker# and Milliners—How Women Wltli Little Aloix-v 31

Follow tho Fashions—Over-

hklrts mil S.'tiin!«•"« Waisth Predicted.

Li we visir, fashionable dressmaker, it Is n-,r "xaetiy t.3i. styles or the materials that interest ns just now so much as the trimmings. On tho bottom of a dress skirt is a triple hand, either of velvet or a material similar to the skirt, making an elegant roll. As for the corsage, there area hundred and one ways to trim and enrich it. To say nothingtf all kinds of bows that are added to the corsage after it is finished, there are plastrons and sleeves made of richly embroidered velvet. Sometimes also there is an entire jacket of this velvet. On the cloth or material itse?f runs a fine arabesque or design in jet, then a scattering of stars or marguerites. All this is very rich and very expensive.

Ladies with but little money, however, who wish to follow the fashion can in a measure also attain to this elegance. They can find in the shops beads, passementerie and spangles of all kinds, and by means of a little applique work can embroider their dresses themselves, says the New York Herald. To liven up a black dress one can make an embroid-

Mv.v

A STYLISH BONNET.

•ry of jot arranged in two rows around the skirt. To make the work easy, talc a little insertion of lace, sew on the jets, overlapping each other in three, four or five rows, according to their size and the width of tho insertion. Nothing is then easier than to sew this insertion, already embroidered, on tho dress. Trim the corsage in the sinne way, arid the result will bo a very handsome trimming with very little expense.

As we have said, this season fashion pays special attention to the details of the toilet.

Numbered with other indications of spring Ftyles are overskirts and short drapery on tho hips, also the apparently seamless and dartless simplicity of the new waists.

Hats ara in theamazon shape for street wear. This is a becoming shape, especially in black hats, studded with jets with ornaments in shining steel. Then thero are the toques, which are rather large and cover the head well, in draped velvet sprinkled with flowers.

Flowers are much used to brighten up felt and velvet hats, and nothing is prettier or in better taste. On a brown velvet hat there are wood violets put on in bunches, with a handsome bow of turquoise velvet spreading out in long ears on tho front.

There ia one thing to be noticed—that is, that the trimmings spread out over the hat rather thau standing up en panache, as formerly. A stylish bonnet is

TWO NEW COSTUMES.

one of felt fancifully bent, gauffered and trimmed with a high feather aigret caught down with a black satin rosette bow.

A quite new costume is one in tun colored cloth. The doubled skirts are edged with a narrow border in black and tinsel braid. The tan colored bodice has little basques edged with braiding, encircling the back and very full. Black satin composes the revers, triple epaulets and sleeves. The vest is tan colored and braided with black and gold. Another new dress is in brown ribbed cloth and is made with a square tablier dra]ed gracefully over a brown velvet panel. The bodice, with its full basques and revers, is of the cloth, fastening with four large buttons over a brown velvet vest. The cloth sleeves are finished with velvet cuffs.

P»pe»r llantfr'n Paste.

First heat water to boiling then add flour, with constant stirring. To prevent the formation of lumps the flour may be passed through a sieve, so as insure its more equable distribution. Agitation is continued until the heat ha* rendered the mass of the desiml con sis' -1 encv. and after a few moments' further boiliug it is ready for u.-e. hi order to increase its strength |owdered rosin in the proportion of one-sixth one-fourth of the weight of the flour is added. To preveut its souring oil of cloves or a few drop* of carbolic acid are added.

THAT CHEAP STEAMER CHAIR.

It Is Comfortable and May He Made ft Thing of Beaaty. The deck or steamer chair, the very cheapest form of lounging chair ever known, should be more used as an occasional sitting room and garden chair. "It is so ugly," I hear you say. But this need not be, says The Housewife. Cover the canvas with a piece of really good strong serge or art linen and embroider

vMWJMm

SADDLEBAG CUSHION.

It not with the old fashioned crewel flowers, but with a conventional pattern done in that simplest of stitches—the orient or herringbone.

Your serge or linen should be of exactly the same length and breadth as the canvas and carefully blanket stitched upon it. A round cushion of silk or serge, slung on the back of the chair with cords, is another boon. If you prefer to enamel the woodwork, this should of course be done before adding the material.

For bedroom chairs, chintz cretonne, art linen or red turkey twill may be substituted for the serge. Really these deck chairs in nurseries and bedrooms are an immense comfort to those with a slender purse, and to whom it would be a consideration to buy the ordinary padded armchair.

Many prefer the double or saddlebag cushion to the simpler form known as roll cushion. These may be made in large patterned brocade or heavy printed silk or embroidered. The halves are filled with fine carded wool and scented powder thickly sprinkled between the layers.

A Convenient Device.

For washing painted walls and ceiling or dusting papered ones and keeping stained or polished floors in order there is nothing so convenient as a broom covered with a bag, but as this soon wears out and is difficult to keep in place I have found an excellent plan is to knit a broom cover of candle wick. Cast 29 stitches on medium sized needles knit 16 rows plain, then narrow at end of each row down to 7 stitches. Finish these off cast on 7 more without breaking the yarn widen each row till you have 29 knit 16 rows and finish off. Sew up the sides, drop the broom in, lace up the top with a corset lace as you would a shoe or sew it up with strong wrapping yarn, and you have a capital arrangement, soft and thick, and one that is bound to stay in its place. Try it and see, advises a housewife in Farm Journal.

lMecelnig Methods.

The pfecebag bulges at the sides, and the piecebox is filled to overflowing. Silk and wool, cotton and satin scraps have become mixed in a way that is simply exasperating. 'Only the other day," sighs the worried housewife, "they were all put to rights. Suppose I do straighten them out again, how long will they stay so? The very next time I want a bit for mending Jack's trousers or Mollie'sgown I shall have to rummage over the whole collection in order to see if the clipping is there."

Along comes a handy woman, one of the sort—bless her!—who contrives to entangle the most perplexing of life's skeins without fretting or fuming. She says in Golden Days, "Try my piecebag methods." And she settles down to business. Carefully she snips from each cutting tiny samples, which she tacks one to another until she has secured a perfect list of what the bag, box or trunk contains. When the call comes for a certain piece of goods for mending purposes, all she has to do is to take her samples from the big envelope tying on the very top of the neatly rolled scraps, and running her eye over them determine without great trouble or delay whether the material she requires is at hand. If not, neither parcel nor roll need be disturbed. In this way the helter skelter treatment of the average collection may be avoided.

Cranberry Jelly.

Pick over and wash 2 quarts of cranberries. Add a teacupful of water and stew until tender. Drain the fruit in a jelly bag without pressure. Add a pound of sugar to each pint of juice. Let it boil five minutes then strain into a mold. The fruit which remains should be pressed through a coarse sieve, when more water may be added, with threequarters of a pound of sugar to each pound of fruit. Heat to the boiling point, and the result is a delicious cranberry marmalade.

Household Brevities.

Turkey red has been selected this winter by the decorators for library and dining room draperies.

Mother's special den is provided for in the Frenchv cretonnes, alive with red rosebuds, ragged robins, carnations, shaggy chrysanthemums and flower-de-luce, which, while within the range of the most restricted buyer, are veritable room furnishers in themselves.

A plain apron of table oilcloth is useful to wear at the washtub, or while washing dishes or doing other sloppy) work.

Thorough and frequent bathing of the entire body is the healthiest and best means of keeping the complexion pure and clean.

The inexpensive Algerian curtains, I with their broad bands and stripes of satin, in tints such sis old gold, scarlet. bright yellow, pale pink and rich greens, eir.Wllish in unpretentious style that cozy corner of the home known as the "sitting room." I

Bathe the Hps occasionally with a littie alum water, followed by a little camphor ice or glycerin. The process will make the lips red and firm.

IN THE PIANO CORNER.

Hake It as Attractive and Suggestive as Means and Taste Will Allow. The piano responds, almost like a living thing, to the care given it, and the owners of new or old instruments may find a few hints from The Etude acceptable. Variations in temperature affect the delicate works so decidedly that the corner of the room farthest from the register or stove should be chosen for its abiding place, and, if possible, the keyboard turned away from the source of heat. It is not necessary to close the lid every night, and, in fact, no piano should remain closed for months at a time, as is often the case. On closing the house for the summer vacation, always see that the inside of the case is dusted carefully, and before shutting it spread several layers of paper over the wires, to absorb any dampness that may gather. The duster should be a piece of softest old silk or cheesecloth, conscientiously used and never dampened for use.

Piano covers are now but little used, although the "uprights" are often fancifully draped with rich scarfs of silk or plush. The real piano lover does not make a table for bric-a-brac of its top, for to the cultivated ear any object placed upon the instrument injures its tone more or less. Do not pile music books on the piano, nor leave them in unsightly heaps around it, but have a music table. Pretty and inexpensive ones are to be found in the furniture stores, but in default of one of these any boy or girl could arrange one similar to a dainty affair seen and made from ah old fashioned washbowl stand rescued from the attic. The wood was painted black and varnished, a neat cover lay across the top, and curtains of yellow china silk on small rods inclosed the lower part, where piles of sheet music lay safe from dust, yet quite accessible.

If your volumes of Beethoven's sonatas and Chopin's nocturnes happen to be in paper covers, they maybe saved much longer from falling apart by gluing to the binding, at the middle of the back, a broad ribbon, which is tied around the book when it is closed. For keeping open bound volumes a simple music weight is more convenient than the patented wire holders, which too often nip out pieces from the leaves. Make a muslin bag 12 inches in length by 2 in width and fill it with fine dry sand. Close tightly and make an outer cover of silk with fringed ends, tied with narrow ribbon. This cylindrical roll lies in the rack and holds the pages flat, while permitting them to be easily turned.

The adjustable piano lamp is a most desirable adjunct for evening practice, but an ordinary lamp with wide spreading shade can be mounted on any substantial pedestal, arrangement at the desired height being the main consideration.

The Bedspread.

There was a time when the housewife was unacquainted with anything more dressy in the way of a bed cover than the plain white counterpane that had to make frequent trips to the laundry to retain its purity. Now, however, all this is changed, and the bed trappings fall into line with the rest of the room furnishings. If madam's bedroom is curtained and draped in chintzes, the chintz frilled bed cover follows suit. When dotted madras is employed, the sheer wafer spotted fabric is made up over delicate colored cambric into bedspread and pillowshams. Cretonne, tinted linens, java canvas and art muslins effectively garnish, with their ribbon and lacy accessories, the fashionable bed.

Dresses For Dancing.

Some of the newest ball skirts in thin materials are cut in a rounded form, like a circular mantle, so that they fit the hips and widen round the feet. Those in black net, with a deep applique of white Russian lace, are beautiful and have small white lace sprays all over them. The time is coming when we are glad to know of any novelties in evening dresses, and some pretty white lisse gowns embroidered in silk all over have pink, yellow or blue box plaited flounces, also embroidered, let in from the knee. Then there are tlie white muslins, scattered all over with green, black or silver pailettes, and sometimes this treatment is adapted to a rainbow ground.

Apron For Boys.

For 5-year-old Ned, who enjoys working with hammer and saw, you might make a carpenter's apron by this pattern from Good Housekeeping: Threequarters of a yard of bright striped ticking, a bolt of tape to match the color of the stripes, and a yard and a quarter of Btrong webbing will be the materials re-

TERRE HAUTE SATURDAY EVENING MAIL, FEBRUARY 10, 1894.

1 »,

i'-\ itl It 5

SMALL BOY'S APRON.

quired. The apron is a perfectly straight piece of goods, with the upper corners cut out so as to'form a bib. Bind around the bib with the tape and put an inch hem across the bottom.

Cut a good sized pocket from the pieces, bind across the top, stitch on at the left side of the apron and stay strongly at the corners, as it is for holding tools or nails. Cat the webbing in two pieces and sew one piece on each corner of the bib, cross these straps at the bsctt and sew the other end to the lower corners at the waist line.

FURNISHING BEDROOMS.

Suggestions For Those Who Are Interested In Home Decoration. The great requirement of the bedroom is plenty of fresh air if we cannot have plenty of space. Seeing that one-third of our existence is spent in the bedroom, it is obvious that the details of furnishing in this apartment should be studied with great care. To women who are in-

OKTE STYLE OF FURNISHING,

terested in the art of home decoration the following suggestions from Decorator and Furnisher will be of interest

We may adopt the regulation suit of furniture, including the bed, or we may reject the wooden bedstead and adopt the modern brass bedstead, which, notwithstanding its coldness of look, can be canopied with soft folds of silk or cretonne and made to be a most inviting as well as.being the most hygienic of bedsteads. There area variety of light and gay woods wherewith the woodwork of the apartment may be constructed. The different bedrooms in the house may be trimmed in hazel, cherry, birdseye maple, curly birch, Circassian ash, chestnut, butternut, sycamore or cedar. Again, ordinary white wood may be used, which may be painted or enameled in any of the modern delicate tints. We will suppose our bedroom to have its trimming in birdseye maple, and the following will be the scheme of color decoration:

Woodwork, birdseye maple walls, old pink frieze, warrn gray cornice, silver: ceiling, light warm gray carpet, ecru upholstery, old pink drapery, old pink. Such coloring will prove extremely delicate and inviting.

There are so many different varieties of floor coverings in the market, ranging from the finest thick pile carpets to ingrain felt carpets and china matting, that the choice of carpet may be safely left to the customer himself, subject to his special requirements in color.

The authority already quoted furnishes various designs for furnishing and decorating bedrooms. The one here re produced shows a bedroom the floor of which is covered with matting and rug. The furniture consists of a brass bed with canopy curtains, a bureau, chairs stand, etc. It is suggestive, and women of taste can add to or subtract from, as best suits tlieir special needs.

A Little Girl's Gown.

The New York Tribune calls attention to a particularly trim little dress for a Jyoung girl.

It has a plaited skirt and a blouse bodice trimmed-with embroidery in jacket

DRESS WITH PLAITED SKIRT.

shape. The collar, the belt and the sleeve trimming are of the same embroidery. It is be hoped that plaited skirts will long be worn by children, for hardly any other is as graceful and flowerlike in effect.

The Economical Black Dress. Every woman ought to have at least one black dress, for there is no dress that strikes such an original note as the black dress rightly managed. A touch \of color of just the right sort gives it an ^individuality that the gayest gown can inever show. A woman who could not afford a new gown this year, and still knew she must have one, cut out the back of the black gown she had, set in a soft and silky material, edged it around with a narrow bit of fur, put a frill of lace below that, then filled in the neck •with cream white crape, shirred to a vel/vet folded collar of pale apple green. A soft twist of the velvet about the waist, tied in little stiff bows on either side the •front, made the old gown much more attractive thau nianv of the new ones.

Worthy of Notice.

To renew rubber goods, take equal, parts of dammer varnish and aspbalttmi, to which a little turpentine is added, and paint those places where the rubber is I worn or cracked.

A drop of honey and sweet oil upon a bit of cotton is the best remedy known for painful earache.

To rejuvenate stale bread, dip the loaf in cold water, put in the oven and heat I through thoroughly. Take out, wrap it up and let it sweat then eat.

Very pretty useful frames for branching house plants can be made of wire umbrella frames. A file, some small pinchers and fine virr* or stunt thread, with patience and a little ingenuity, will do the work.

Experienced housekeepers realize that the dishcloth should receive as much attention as the dish towel. It should be made of soft, pliable crash about half a yard square, hemmed, marked, numbered and a loop made to hang it by, the same as for towels.

A TRANSCONTINENTAL BOULEVARD.

Dr. John T. Nagle's Plan For Furnishing Employment to Men Oat of Work. Dr. John T. Nagle, registrar of vital statistics, has come out with a novel suggestion for furnishing work to the unemployed. He advocates the building of a great transcontinental boulevard to extend from the Atlantic to the Pacific, in the building of which each state through which .the boulevard passed should contribute its share for the employment of labor. "I have had the idea in mind for some time," Dr. Nagle said, "and I feel sure that gigantic as would be the scheme it would pay in the end. Such a boulevard, laid out with a macadamized roadway and with ornamental trees along its walks, would certainly enhance the value of property in its immediate vicinity7. It would furnish a driveway for the owners of fast horses all over the country, and the bicycle riders would be there by the thousands. There might be a million of these riders on the road at one time. The boulevard would be one of the greatest sights in Christendom. There would be inns at different points along its entire length. Mansions \:onld be built along its route too. The construction of such a roadway would give employment to hundreds of thousands of workmen and keep them busy for two years at least. "I do not believe that it is a mere Utopian dream. Anybody who has been in the City of Mexico and has seen the superb boultvaid leading for miles out from that city, with its giant eucalyptus trees and other monuments, can readily imagine what a magnificent thing such a boulevard would be. Engineers will tell yon that the idea is practical, and that the cost would be nothing compared to the benefit that would accrue from its construction." —New York Sun.

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Hood's Pills cure all liver ills.

Ex-Cabinet Officers In the Senate. There are an even half dozen ex-cab-inet officers in the senate, and they comprise some pretty able men. Only one of the six is a Democrat, and that is Vilas of Wisconsin, who played the dual role of secretary of the interior and postmaster general during the first Cleveland reign. Proctor of Vermont was the warrior of tho Harrison administration, Chandler of &ew Hampshire was secretary of the navy under Arthur, and Teller of Colorado secretary of the interior under the same regime. Cameron of Pennsylvania was secretary of war under President Grant, and John Sherman was President Hayes' financier.—Boston Advertiser.

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