Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 24, Number 21, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 18 November 1893 — Page 6

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POPULAR FASHIONS.

STYLES ESPECIALLY ADAPTED TO WOMEN OF' MODERATE MEANS. 4"%% How Amateor^XhreMmakera Tarn Xwo ftld

Dresses Into One New One—The Accepted Width of Skirts—Blouse Waists In High Favor.

It is encouraging to women with scant purses to know they have an opportunity of turning two old dresses into one new one, always provided the material is in good order. A beautiful model from Paris was made of brown velvet, which formed half the depth of the skirt, where

BLOUSE IN STRIPED CREPON.

it was met by anew make of moire, also of a brown tone, with chine flowers thrown on a shot ground. The junction was hidden by a band of fur, and the lower part of the bodice was of the rfioire, which apparently swathed the figure in soft, easy folds, while the upper part was of velvet, elaborately embroidered in jet and steel, having the semblance of a deep cape, falling over the top of the sleeves. These had one puff of the moire to the elbow and a narrow gauntlet to the wrist. Biased bands edge many of the skirts, and several are cut on the bias as of yore.

Four to four and a half yards is the ac cepted width of ordinary skirts. They are gored, dnd by no means full at the waist —indeed they do not at all err on the side of overfullness or scantiness, the great object being that they should flow gracefully, and in the matter of trimming much is left to the individual taste. For example, a pretty flowered brocaded skirt was trimmed about half a yard above the edge with a wide rouleau of velvet, knotted at intervals, heading a narrow but full lace flounce. But in order that the skirts should flow out at the feet the lower portion is cut like a flounce, and though not apparently gath ered is so gored that it is extra full.

This is the era of the blouse waist, and far from losing its popularity, this pleasing adjunct of feminine apparel bids fair to bo more popular than ever. Fortunately for women who do their own dressmaking, the blouse is the easiest picturesque garment to make that was ever invented. One of the prettiest nov cities in ithis line is a perfectly fitting glove tight satin "fonds," over which chiffon of the Bame color is most artistically draped, or, which is quite as pretty, arranged in accordion plaited folds which are crossed over the breast or not, as best suits the wearer.

For day blouses every imaginable material is used. Silk, cashmere, hop sacking. serges—anything or everything is allowable. The amateur dressmaker, who ventures on one of the tight fitting blouses just described, has only to take the lining of an old dress that fits well for a foundation. With a perfectly fit-

TWO NEW BLOUSE WAISTS.

ting bodico to go on, material may be draped very easily, and with a ribbon collar and belt there you are. It takes no time at all to make one. Many bodices end at the waist, while others have the skirt fastening over them, with handsome belt trimmings.

A pretty French blouse in striped crepon is gathered at the neck, waist and elbows. A fancy galon outlines the full basque, the fluted frills of the sleeves, together with the neck flounce, with its two ends falling as a jabot into fan plaiting* Anew form of blouse, made over a tight fitting lining and showing the popular shoulder drapery, is fashioned with a band and all round basque intended to be worn on the outside of the drees. A plain blouse, by the bye, out be made to appear ornamental by trimming it yoke fashion with black lace, a frill over the shoulder, a belt of black lace Mid bands of black lace insert tton between the puffings on the sleeves, which end in deep ruffles.

A Dainty illon Mender.

To make a dainty glove mender, get a small silver ring and sew to it pieces of Harrow blue ribbon, letting them hang down a short distance from the ring. To one attach a pair of small silver topped scissors to another a pretty shaped needle book of bine plush to the third tie a silver finger, which any jeweler will make for you. This is to put in the finger of the glove while mending it. To the fourth ribbon aew a braided strand of different colored silks. Have the silver ring hanj? from two broad pieces of ribbon, which are joined with a bow at the top. A l«ss expensive one may be made by using a wooden finger mi.

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THE GIRL'S SANCTUM.

An Object Lesson In Artistic Furnishing For Youthful Amateur*.

When a girl leaves school, she feels the want of a quiet nook, all her own. where she can retire in her leisure and enjoy those day dreams which are the precious possession of youth. It is not necessary for it to be one of the largest and handsomest rooms in the' house—those naturally fall to the lot of the seniors. Some unused bedroom, or even attic, answers the purpose and is transformed by clever fingers into a charming retreat.

A few rolls of paper and a can of eparnfl paint in the Qbnds of a tasteful amateur will work wonders in the way of wall decoration. A few dollars wiH purchase Chinese matting "or an art square of ingrain for a floor cover, and a dozen yards of cretonne make a brave show when cut up for box and cushion covers. It is convenient to fill the chimney recess with bookshelves painted to correspond with the other woodwork and neatly edged with leather, held by brass naiis. A pretty overmantel and a small hanging bracket with a cupboard are other useful additions.

As girls are not as a rule overburdened with superfluous cash and will probably be glad to utilize any available furniture, The Housewife makes these helpful suggestions: Plain tables with a sin gle drawer make quite presentable writ ng and occasional tables if they aire stained or enameled, brass drop handles substituted for the ugly wooden knobs and a square of Japanese leather glued to the top. A plain kitchen table standing firmly on its four legs and entirely covered with a pretty cloth is not an expensive item neither is an old fashioned pine washing stand, with a narrow shelf and a large cupboard beneath, which can be painted willow green, sparrow's egg blue, amber, primrose yellow OT oth-

CORNER NOOK IN GIRL'S ROOM.

er suitable color and have brass fittings screwed in, when it forms quite a nice sideboard.

It cari be embellished in various ways, but most easily by inserting Japanese leather in the panels of the doors and surrounding these by a hand painted design. Trunks with loose cretonne covers fastened to a feather pillow form useful receptacles and seats. A basket chair nicely cushioned, and a box otto man couch are also priceless possessions, while the bamboo furniture so largely imported of late lends itself to decoration and is made in a variety of ingen ions and useful contrivances, which reoommend it for such an apartment.

The authority quoted furnishes these hints concerning the all important corner nook for the girl's study or own room. The curtain is hung from one of those convenient swinging brackets. The wide, low divan with its large pillars may be covered in blue or red .linen or any other suitable materials The dwarf bookcase near the divan may be a packing box covered with leather paper. The drapery may be velvet stripes applique on dyed serge and the spindlework around the upper shelf made of empty spools. So the outlines are firm and ample, the effect must be covetable and delightsome. Even the delightful window may be attained by a wood framework laid against the ordinary two _or four pane window. ffl?

One Way to Bake Apples.

Core and quarter tart apples, but do not remove the skin. Fill a pudding dish sprinkle over with sugar to sweeten them as with boiled apple sauce add a little water put in the oven and bake. Press them down into the juice when removed from the oven. Eaten cold with a little sweet cream.

Th® Student Penwiper.

With the approaching holiday season, suggestions concerning homemade presents are in order. The New York Tribune suggests that a student penwiper for the library writing table makes a pretty present. Take the china head of a doll, one with black hair being prefer-

TOR THX WRITUKJ TABUS.

able. Make a student's cap with a bit of black silk, glueing the black sQk ooverod square of cardboard on to the cap, sad fastening a little tassel in Use oenter. S HP

A stiff white collar and tie for the neck and half a dosen thicknesses of black cloth complete the costume and form tha penwiper.

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TERRE HAUTE SATUBBAY EVENING MAIL, NOVEMBER 18,1893.-

TAKE CARE OF THE PIANO.

Points In Tuning and Folishlntj—Avoid Extremes of Temperature.

Owners often let their pianos go month after month simply from neglect to give orders for tuning. This is a mistake, as your piano may become "seriously injured. Have your piano regularly timed, and if a reliable make it will last for years. It is impossible to specify any number of times per year that the instrument must be tuned.' Generally speaking, most pianos require attention three or four times annually. So much depends, however, upon temperature as well as the make of instrument, use and kind pf use, its condition^ etc., that where one piano needs flveor six tunings yearly another might do equally well with but two tunings during the same time.. A Competent tuner will attend to the regu lating of the action and voicing, which is quite as important as the tuning.

Keep the piano during the winter in the coolest part of the room and the temperature as even as possible. Never set it close to a register, as too much heat is liable to shrink and crack the sounding board. Dampness is one of the greatest enemies to the piano, therefore the instrument should be closed in damp weather wfcen not in use. In dry, pleasant weather leave the piano' open, so the dry air can get to the action and key board. This will keep out the dampness from the action, keep the keys from sticking, the ivories from turning yellow and the strings from rusting. All of these troubles are liable to occur if the piano is kept closed too much.

Never allow the sun to shine on the piano, as it will surely blister and turn the color of the varnish, which can never be remedied unless the piano is scraped and revarnished, and this necessitates heavy expense. Watch the piandt carefully that the moths do not get into it as they will do the piano serious injury.

Every first class piano undergoes process of varnishing that requires from six to ten weeks' time, and receives half dozen heavy coats of fine varnish, which are in turn rubbed and polished until the surface is as smooth as glass. Every one has observed after purchasing anew piano, especially in damp weather, that it soon takes on a dull, smoky appearance. This is the effect of the dampness on the surface of the varnish.

To remove this, a writer in the Baeton Budget says: "Use a fine sponge and tepid water. A chamois skin as dry as it can be wrung .out of water should be used to dry the surface after using the sponge. This will usually be sufficient Should you wish a higher polish, oil the case with piano oii and remove the oil thoroughly from the varnish with apiece of cotton flannel moistened with a little alcohol. Never allow the alcohol cloth to be left any length of time on the varnish, as the alcohol would burn it."

ANew Crochet Design.

The following design for a ribbon edge was made for The Household: Chain 8—1. One to in third- stitch from hook ch 5,1 dc in last stitch, turn. 2L Ch 8, 5 tc over last 5 ch, 6 to in neit-8 oh, chaining one between each tc, turn. 8. Ch 5, 1 sc in second loop, ch 5,1 so in

CROCHETED EDGE FOR RIBBON.

next loop, ch 5,1 sc in next loop, ch 8fl to in next loop, ch 5,1 dc in last loop. Repeat from second row. This is an easy and simple pattern and effective for trimming underclothing, and ribbon can be run through the meshes.

(sDP Egg Gruel For Colds.

As soon as the first symptom of a cold appears, drink some egg gruel, which may be made as follows: Beat the yolk of an egg with a teaspoonful of sugar and a small pinch of salt. Stir into this gradually a cupful of hot milk, then the White of an egg beaten to a stiff froth. Drink at once.

Wash very carefully a nice, firm and very fresh cabbage and remove the outer leaves and any thick stems. Now slice it thinly across, rinse these slices well in salted water, dry them thoroughly on a clean cloth and fry in butter for five minutes, stirring them constantly then pOUr onto them two spoonfuls of vinegar, a good half pint of stock, with seasoning to taste, and let them stew steadily in a covered pan till the cabbage is done and quite tender, then drain well and serve piled on a hot dish.

Macaroni With Veal.

Add to a pint of strained tomatoes a quart of cooked macaroni, a pound of minced veal, salt, pepper, one-fourth pound of butter, a tablespobnful of grated cheese and a little mace. Bake in a dish strewn with crumbs.

tints In Dressmaking.

Take a lesson from the tailor, who owes much of his success with tailormade gowns to his habit of guessing at nothing, but accurately measuring, mnrViiTg and thoroughly basting before taking a stitch.

A tasteful finish to the long velvet revers is a velvet ribbon bow, having long loops and long ends hanging below the belt.

Merely cutting off the double breasted front, giving straight edge, with handsome buttons and well made buttonboles, will make an old basque seem new to the wearer.

A dress skirt not only hangs better for paving a lining, but it wears very much longer. When you cannot afford a silk lining, select the cheaper one in imitation of silk, which may be found at most stores.

Keep a bit of glue on hand and before cutting buttonholes mark their plaoes with the glue slightly moistened. This will cause the threads of the fabrioto adbare, so that the cutting and making will not ravel the edge of the buttonhole.

Early Rising.

A person should never be waked except In cases of urgent necessity. When a man falls asleep, he is in a shape for repairs. All the intricate machinery of his body is being overhauled and put in order for next day's work. Nature knows what the tired body needs. She lays it on the bed, surrounds it with the refreshing air of night, covers it with darkness and lets the man rest. "Tired nature's sweet restorer, balmy sleep," visits him, and as the hours pass by his energies are renewed, his strength comes back, and when the daylight steals through the window, he opens his eyes and feels like anew man.

If he is early to bed, he wakes correspondingly early. Now, who will go to that man's side an hour before he opens his eyes and say to nature: "Stand aside and let hiru get up. He has had enough rest." Nature will say: "You can take Mm if you will, but I will charge him with an hour's loss of sleep, and I'll collect it out of his bones and nerves and hair and eyesight. You can't cheat me. Ill find property to levy on." Nature is the best bookkeeper in the world. You may overdraw, but you must pay back, even to the "pound of flesh."—Jenness Miller Monthly.

Human Beings With Tails.

There are at least two well authenticated instances on record of human beings provided with taillike elongations of the spinal column. One of these is reported in the Asiatic Transactions (Calcutta, June, 1860), and the other in the journal of the British Anthropological society. In the first instance the tailed human was a Moi boy of Cochin-China, the tail being about afoot in length, but without a bony connection with the terminus of the spine. The boy wasjsupposed to bo-12 years old at the time the report Was published, but the noted oriental scholar who made the examination has since died, and the society has lost all track of the tailed Chinaman. The second instance mentioned was reported in the journal of the British Anthropological society for July, 1890, and concerns two tailed Papuans, male and female, who were brought to England In the spring of the year last mentioned above.—St. Louis Republic.

The BeBt Known.

That which is the most widely known, is sure to give the greatest satisfaction. When we are sick and in need of a physician, we send for theone who is known to be the most skilful in his profession. It is only reoently that people all over the land had the opportunity of obtaining the best medical consultation and advice without charge.

Dr. Greene, of 35 West 14th street, New York, is without question the best known and most skilful physician in curingV nervous and chronic diseases. He is the discoverer of the wonderful cure, Dr. Greene's Nervura blood and nerve remedy, and has lately adopted the plan of treating the sick from far and near by means of letter correspondence. His success is simply wonderful. People can consult him by letter, free of charge.

He gives most careiul and explicit attention toall letters, answering all questions and thoroughly explaining your diseases so that you know just what is the matter with you. For this, there is no charge whatever. The doctor uses only harmless vegetable remedies and has the greatest success in curing diseases through letter correspondence. Send for his symptom blank, and he will write you a full description of your disease and give you advice and directions how to cure it, free of charge.

Borrowing a Hole.

"Lend me a hole" is a not unusual request from one commuter to another as 'they come into New York by rail. It means that he who has preferred the request has forgotten his commutation ticket and begs that his companion have a hole punched in his own on the negligent one's aocount. It is a courtesy constantly exchanged by commuters on railway*— New York Bun.

It's sometimes wise to act as if you were rich when you are poor, and when rich to act as if you were poor.

I can recommend Ely's' Cream Balm to all sufferers from dry catarrh from personal experience.—Michael Herr, Pharmacist, Denver.

I had catarrh of the head and throat for five years. I used Ely's Cream Balm, and ,from.tl*e first application I wa« relieved. The sense of smell, which had been lost, was restored after using one bottle. 1 have found the Balm the only satisfactory remedy for catarrh, and it has effected a cure in my case.—H. L. Mey er, Waverly, N. Y.

Lane's Family Medicine Moves the Bowels

Each day. Most people need to use it.

PHENYO-CAFFEIN.

If you "Have Headache or Neuralgia, Take Phenyo-Caffein Pills.

They are effectual in relieving Pain, and in curing Headache or Neuralgia. They are not a cathartic and contain nothing that stupefies. They tone up the nerves and tend to prevent returns of Headache and Neuralgia. They are guaranteed to do all that is claimed for them.

TESTIMONIALS.

I have never seen anything act so promptly as Phenyo-Cafiein in sick and nervous Headache. Many cases have been cured and not' any failures reported. H. L. Farrer, Belle Voir, N. C.

FOr years I have been a terrible sufferer from headache some six months ago my physician prescribed PhenyoCaffein, and sinoe then, by. their use, I have not had a severe headache, being able to stop them completely in their incipiency. J. H. Stannard, Concord, N. H.

You hit the nail on tbe bead whenvou put Phenyo-Caffein on the market. They are the best thing out for headache, E. P. Jones, M. D., Orleans, Mass.

One year ago I was one of the greatest sufferers from sick and nervous headache I ever knew. I no more have trouble with sick headache and seldom have even a slight headache. I attribute the great change to your Phenyo-Caffein, a remedy I oould not do without if it cost |5 a box. I have tried a dosen or more medicines (warranted to cure) without their even helping me. I can not praise your valuable preparation enough. Frink a Schmitt, Seymour, Indiana. _____

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