Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 24, Number 15, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 7 October 1893 — Page 6

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SEW^VINTER WRAPS.

THE LATESTSTYLES IN CAPES, COATS, FURS AND CARRIAGE CLOAKS.

There Is a Bndical Change In Coats—Tbe Fall Skirt Only Is Considered New. ^Fashions In Far Garment# Advice ,-jf*About Baying Cloak.

The new wraps show some Ideas likely to make trouble for women who bought expensive coats last winter arid hoped to fall back upon them for a second season. Capes may be altered easily* Scarcely any alteration is necessary, in fact. Coats, however, are changed radically. The close fitting skirts of last year's coats are out of date entirely. Only the full skirt i» counted "new," and of course without this magic stamp no wearer of fashion will value a garment, though it were wrought in richest materials.

The fur cor.ta will give less annoyance to their possessors, as many of the hand somest fnr coatsof last season were made with the flaring skirt. By the way, it always is worth while to keep a careful eye on tbe styles brought our in fur garments. Pur is amaterijJ of which no one desires to order a wrap for a single sea^ son. Fur designers are obliged to exercise at once the most alert judgment and most conservative taste, that the valuable goods which they handle nei*

CLOTH JACKET TRIMMED WITH SUNK.

thor may be rendered undesirable by any unforeseen revolution of fashion nor wasted in ideas too striking to be long approved.

In buying a high priced cloth cloak, therefore, a purchaser cannot do better than guide her selection by the best fur wraps. In cheap and medium furs much latitude is allowed to the craving for novelties. The flaring skirt on the tight bodicc, which appeared in furs in the early winter, did not come out in cloth until spring, thus leaving the cloth coats of last winter hopelessly unfashionable It will be very difficult to remodel such coats, though in some instances it may bo done by the insertion of velvet gores. The triple cape coat, which luckily proved a favorite last year, comes nearer to the present designs than any of the other old models.

Glancing frr a moment at furs, it may be noted that nothing of specially novel design appears, though little touch** here and there freshen and alter familiar styles. Muffs are made in several sizes, ranging each way from modium, says a writer in the New York Times, who thinks that from the present outlook thoro is some hope that scarfs which have been so obnoxiously prominent in fur work for several seasons may be retired at least in a measure before the new flat boas. Theso are long and wide aud vastly preferablo to the scarfs both in appearanco and for comfort. Fur hate and caps will be more trimmed than of late, the fancy for feathers having affected them somewhat

Black velvet and plush wraps are abundant and are heavily trimmed with jot and dark fur.

I# tho first cut is shown an olive cloth jacket with collar and revers of mink fur. It is close fitting, with a very full circular basque, setting in full flutes Tho huge sleeves are stitched at the top into flat plaits in a novel manner. In the second cut a carriage cloak in brown

CJJUUAQE CLOAK KtKJKD WITH PHt

doth is illustrated. The fronts are edged with brown "wolverine fur. The very full capes and liigh collar are trimmed with the same beautiful fur. The flat crowned hat of sealskin is decorated with sable brash.

To Clean Ott Pointing*.

1

To remove fly specks from an oil painting, The Art Amateur recommends washing tbe picture over with a soft damp leather, rubbing very gently. Dry with a soft silk handkerchief. If the specks are obstinate, lay a soft wet rag over them, wringing it out in fresh water and replacing it t:pon the dirty part* of the picture until they can be «*sUy removed. This will perhaps require sevend days* treatment, but the method is safe. Thee wash the picture well with a soft sponge or leather and dry thoroughly. Rub II over lighUy with dew nut or linseed cil. Spirits Of wine or tiupe&tt&e attain resalts more quickly, but if without paint.

CONVENIENT DISH DRAINERS.

Some

Homemade Contrivance*

AT?

That Save

Labor In Diib Washing.

The old time housewife is rarely content with any but the old and very good fashioned way of washing and carefully drying with a towel, one- dish at a tinfe. Modern housekeepers, however, are most of them averse to the tedium of so many tiimw handling one dish and therefore

POSITION OF DRAINER AND SINK. grasp eagerly after new fangled dish washers that work with a crank, patent drains that dry the dishes without wiping,

In the accompanying sketch, furnished •by Ohio Farmer, is shown a homemade drainer, which while leaving some work to do on. the part of the housewife is of valuable assistance in the matter of washing and wiping of dishes. This drainer ought to be placed Just hign enough to be within easy reach and will be found ve"y handy indeed. The dishes can be scalded before putting in the drainer if desired, but if the wall ba^k of the sink is protected, as it should aJ watys be, by tin or zinc, they can be scalded after being placed in the drainer. Any man or boy with proper tools can make the drainer. The ends should bsolid while the front and bottom are formed, of slats placed like lattice work. It should be made at such an angle as to Incline toward the front or downward.

If your kitchen does not possess tbtfc desirable and almost indispensable article, a sink, then procure an oblong birch basket, which can be purchased at a small cost spread a clean cloth or tea towel in the bottom, place where it can drain perfectly, scald your dishes and place them on their edges in the basket,let them remain until perfectly dry, or until wanted for use, when they will be found quite clean and shining, besides saving a great deal of handling, which is an important item where there are a great many dishes to be washed every day. The basket can be easily scalded and should be aired and dried once every day, and thus'kept clean and sweet.

A discarded dishpan or a basin large enough may be made into a drainer for dishes also, in this way: With a nail and hammer drive the bottom full of holes and place the pan over some receptacle to catch the water with which the dishes are scalded. The only objeetion to this device is rust, which will soon render it unfit for use unless care is taken to dry as often as possible. A cloth should be placed in the bottom of the pan before plating the dishes therein.

4/ S, Tea Jacket®.

Tea jackets have become as inuch of a necessity as that most popular of garments, the tea gown. There are, moreover, tea jackets and tea jackets. As

V.

ACCORDION KILTED TEA JACKET,

with the gowns so with the jacketssome are loose and comfortable, fit only for negligee, others are fitted closely to tho figure and are elaborate and dressy enough for the drawing room on ordinary occasions.

The new accordion kilted jacket fits in a trim stylo about tho waist and consequently is a vast deal more becoming than the usual floppy garment made .of soft silk and Valenciennes lace.

IJ rolled Sweet Potato*#.

Raw and boiled are cooked in the same way. If raw, cut in thin slices and dip into melted butter and broil to a dark brown. Boiled sweet potatoes

are

broiled just long enough to heat them through and show the marks of the broiler. To prevent sticking see that wires are well buttered.

For tt»e Gnest Chamber.

There is a pretty fashion that as yet has not found its way to many cities. It is a delicate reminder to the "sometime guest" of the family hours for meals. At the woman's exchanges, in places where the custom prevails, are found for sale daintily decorated cards for hanging oil the wall of the guest chamber. A rough surfaced, ragged edged card is used, measuring 9 Indies one way by 6 the other. Across the tipper part of each is painted some expressive and suitable sentiment. either quoted or original- Upon the middle of the card vines, flowers or landscapes are painted in water colors, with space enough left at the side for tbe words breakfast* luncheon and dinner, with room to pencil the hoars at which tbey are served. At the bottom are given the hour* for mails, thus making, says Harper's Batar, the pretty ornamental thing complete bureau of information, answering five of the usual question* which agitate a- riaitor's mind,

BafcrilratG be good a&mlft Ifitf boiled when done, carefully skin and ooTer the top with a layer of sugar bake til a deep pan in moderate oveta and baste itoootixmaUy with cooking sherry wine. This dish & away iatmeqnakd.

SOME A'JSW D01L1E6.

UNEN AND FINE HONITON BRAID OFFER A BEAUTIFUL COMBINATION.

THE SIMPLEST OP ALL DESIGNS.

1

Tie pretty trifles which have just appeared have the merit of being delicate and fine without being BO perishable as many that have gone before. The new doilies are very simple things and easily made by any one with a taste for fine needlework, The drawings here reproduced from the New York Times show different designs, but these are made in the same way. The materials needed are doily linen, a quality of the material made expressly for such work, fine honiton braid and pure white filoselle. The differences in the patterns depend upon the way in which the braid Is applied and the varying combinations made from its links. The linen costs $1 per yard and is 86 inches wide. The braid varies in price, but a good quality and one much used can be bought for 14 cents a running yard.

To make a set, either all alike or combining the different styles, buy threequarters of a yard of linen and cut it into eight inch squares. For the first design, or the simplest styles of all, taste the braid neatly around all four sides. Then with the filoselle buttonhole the outer edge in fine points and the inner edge with small stitches, whioh follow exactly the outline of the braid. "When the edge is com-

DOILY WITH LACE CENTER.

pleted, baste two sections of the braid in each corner, so as to form a small square, and buttonhole* both edges of all with fine stitches, like those upon the inner line of br^id which makes the border. With very sharp scissors cut away the linen that lies beneath the braid, and also that within the square formed at each corner. Fill in the latter spaces with the familiar drawn work stitch known as the wheel, executed in silk, and when all four are finished the doily will be complete.

To make the second design first work the simple edge, then baste on the braid, as the drawings show, and fill in the spaces with the wheel or other fancy stitches. The whole principle is involved in the basting and stitching of the braid. Once that is understood and a simple border made it is easy to enlai-ge and elaborate the patterns as desired. The fact that the braid is made in sections makes combination a simple thing.

Padded and Perfumed.

A padded trunk is better than a trunk sachet, perhaps, though it is a little more trouble to renew it. The entire interior is padded with sheet wadding, lightly fitted in and tacked on first in two or three places with small upholster's tacks. Between the wadding is sprinkled orris or violet powder, the best procurable, and over it cheesecloth of some delicate shade is gathered and held at the corners with brass tacks.

Small Cucumber Pickles.

Wash and wipe 100 small cucumbers and place them in jars. Cover them with boiling brine, strong enough to bear an egg. Let stand. 34 hours. Then take them out, tripe, place in clean jars and cover with hot vinegar, spiced with an onion, whole cloves, aa ounce of mustard seed and 8 blades of mace. They will be ready to use in two weeks.

Fashion Echo*.

The winter crepons are among the most attractive of the new dress fabrics. Colored mohairs with brocaded dots are novelties.

Bayadere stripes are noted in all classes of fabrics. Tbe shirt waists will be worn this winter made of silk, satin sad moire. Some are plain, others trimmed with guipure

The Eton jacket epidemic, which has msde tbe stoat woman stouter, tbe thin woman thinner and emphasised every defect in a woman's frame, seems to be abating.

Tbealoping shoulder bids £slr to be ados mors the queen of fu&toa.

TERRE HAUTE SATURDA^EVENING MAIL, OCTOBER 1893.

Tbe Lateat Wrinkle In These Convenient AceMwrlet—The Newest Doilies Are Xot So Perishable as Those That Have

Gone Before—How to Make Them.

The very latest thing in doilies is a combination of fine linen and honiton lace braid. The embroidered® sets will still be used, and the lovely colors we have learned to expect will still be seen, but pure white and lace finish are the newest out and promise to take high rank. There is something very dainty and exquisite about a white table service, and admire color as we may the return to it means a relief to the eye.

CULTIVATING THE VOICE.

Pursuing the Study of Vocal Stusle Without a Master's Aid.

•s%f ooe knows what to do and will practice a few minutes every day, he will in a short time perceive the improvement in his voice. The purpose of the following directions, from The Vocalist, is to tell any one what to do as the foundation in voice culture. Some persons will realize after following the instruction given that they possess enough voice to warrant them in entering more deeply into the study of the voice than fundamental worls calls for. All good voice culture is based upon proper nee of the breath. Ten minutes of practice a day should be given to the following exercises:

Exercise One—Fill the lungs slowly, hold the breath 10 seconds and exhale at once. Repeat four times.

Two—Fill and empty the lungs deliberately three times. (Do not hold the breath.) When filling, allow the breath to settle down to the waist. The sides will expand, the abdomen will gently distend a livtle, and even the lower back will feel the expansion during inhalation when this is properly done. Repeat this four times.

Three—Take comfortable breath and hold it. Hold a hand mirror, while holding the breath, before the open mouth, the mirror touching the nose. No moisture should show on the mirror. At first hold 10 to 12 seconds. Repeat the exercise six times, and at the last time hold the breath 20 or more seconds.

Four—Hold the breath, "with the mirror as before, and whisper the words "one, fr*fo, three, four" several times. At first moisture may show on the mirror. Repeat the exercise six times. By that time no moisture should appear.

Five—Select any hymn tune or hymn (the doxology, "Praise God From Whom All Blessinsrs Flow,'" serves as well as any) and. sing it deliberately with moderate voice, being careful to speak distinctly, and also being careful to sing one line to one breath—that is, use a breath for each line. Continue these five exercises one.week. Then, if you choose, try the voice on any singing and see if it seems any better than it formerly did. Probably you feel somewhat greater ease than usual. During the second week discontinue exercise 1, Begin practice with exercise 6. Take a comfortable Wreath and exhale very slowly. Leave the throat open and free. Repeat five times.

Seven—Hold the breath, with the mirror, then sing quietly the words "one, two, three, four" on the pitch of the note F, allowing no moisture to, show on mirror. Repeat three times. Then sing the same on the next note higher, ther on higher notes. Repeat each note three times. fij)

At the end of the second week it will be seen that you can sing easier into the upper voice. Continue these exercises a third week and perhaps a fourth. Repeat such practice as this four times a year. Every third month they should be repeated. If this custom is kept up, ""the voice will gradually grow better, and it will be preserved into old age.

These exerc-' are not to be done violently. Gentleness should underlie all vocal practice.

Fruit Glace.

Two cups of granulated sugar, a cup of hot water, fruit according to choice. Boil the Sugar and water slowly onehalf hour without stirring. Carefully dip the point of spoon into the sirup and then into cold water. If the thread formed is brittle, the sirup is ready for the fruit. Pour into a. bowl and place the bowl in hot water while dipping the fruit. White grapes, or English walnuts halved, or oranges pared, quartered and thoroughly dried can be used. Each piece of fruit must be held on the end of a long pin, dipped separately and then dropped on a cold dish. The dipping muBt be very carefully done so as not to stir the sirup.

Snowball Cake..

One and a half cupfuls of sugar, 8 *ablespoonfuls of butter, two-thirds of a cupful of milk, 2 cupfuls of flour, the whites of 3 eggs, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder and half a teaspoonful of almond flavoring^ Bake in a square pan and ice. Put candied cherries on the icing at regular intervals, and so that one will come in the center of each piece.

A Useful Decoration.

A mural decoration that is as useful as it is ornamental is a hanging portfolio made in repousse leather, whiclrthe New York Herald tells how to hang with pleasing effect.

The portfolio is fastened to the wall with a pretty arrangement of red, white or dark bine narrow prirthina: fastened

PORTFOLIO FOB FHOtOORAPfflS.

together at each angle with a saddler's rosette. Aportiolioof this Wad is pa*tkrulsriy convenient for large photo­

graphs,

or for illustrated papers,oria

Set for anything tluitis&oteM&rdi*pceedot It need hardly be added that the suggested may be carried out in decorated cardboard sod ribbons In place of Hie leather when tbe latter ca»-

not

be ooprentently obtained.

MUSIC A TREASURE TROVE.

JPry to Find -the-Volce Don't Walt Until It Itself.

AlthoughsextHptionally good voices are born, not m$de, really wonderful results may be achieved with an ordinary organ by proper cultivation, combined with a fair amount of perseverance. Many a voice that is weak and insignificant in the beginning has developed even great merit. '/:V

Such cases are by no means fare* and should encourage parents to give their children every advantage in this direction. Try to find* the voice instead of waiting for it to assert itself and it may become a treasure trove of the greatest value in the household.

Although children should be encouraged to sing, particularly together, it is not well to commence the regular training' until the body is sufficiently developed physically and even then it goes without saying that it should be not overtrained. This is particularly necessary in the cases" that show exceptional merit. Many an organ of rare quality has been ruined by overtraining and overwork. Nature, although she can be materially aided, cannot be pushed. Boys, as a rule, should be between 17 and 18 before their voices are trained, and in some cases, where an individual is backward in development, it is better to wait until a year or so later.

Girls get their natural voices sooner, and may begin, says a competent authority, even at 15 in some cases. A year later is, however, better. Of course it is a well known fact that dissipation of any kind ruins the voice. The cigarette smoking youth may as well give up all hope of acquiring a charming and readily summoned accomplishment. It is a positive pain sometimes to see fine voices literally murdered through indulgence.

An authority on such matters predicts in the New York Tribune that wise parents will by and by cease to inflict the misery of persistent piano training on daughters who have only ordinary ability. Much money is waked, much precious time thrown away on this instrument by not specially clever and musical girls, who generally drop it after marriage. The same money and time spent on the cultivation of the voice and the study of the theory of music would mean untold pleasure for the singer herself and for her friends. The power to play a good accompaniment should be acquired at the same time. This is an accomplishment which is too seldom found and which might well be studied by a girl who has not sufficient musical gift to warrant more severe study.

Quick reading and a sympathetic touch and feeling will make an excellent accompanist, and great is the pleasure she can confer. Many a man and woman of society who hate the bore of playing their own accompaniments can be coaxed to use a beautiful voice if somebody be at hand to accompany it with taste and precision.

Piano study is very much overdone in jfchis country, although it is becoming less and less an inevitable among those best able to secure the most thorough tramihg. The violin and the harp often take the place of the hockfaeyed piano.

The people quiokly recognize merit, and this is the reason the sales of Hood's Sarsaparilla are continually increasing. Try it.'

!'\f'

Things Every Woman Wants to Know.

White canvas belts have buckles of silver. Portfolios and writing pads are covered with canvas and mounted in silver, Card cases and pocketbooks are of the same material,, witti' silver corners,

Silver ornamentation takes the form of cables and ropes in knots. Bicycling has never been in higher favor as a feminine diversion than now. "Butterfly" bonnets, by the way, are just now pre-eminently the headgear of the Parisian woman of-fashion.

I have been a great sufferer from' catarrh for over ten years had it very bad, could hardly breathe. Some nights I could not sleep and had to walk the floor. I purchased Ely's Cream Balm and am using it freely, it is working a cure surely. I have advised several friends to use it, and with happy results in every case. It is the medicine above all others for catarrh, and it Is worth its weight in gold. 1 thank God I have found a remedy I can use with safety and that does all that is claimed for it. It is coring my deafness.—B. W, Sperry, Hartford, Conn. g|.«, Lane's Family Medicine Mores the Bowels rtacb day. Most people need to use it.

PHENYO-CAFFEIN.

If you Have Headache or Neuralgia, Take Phenyo-Caffein Pills.

They are effectual in relieving Pain, and in curios Headache or Neuralgia. They are not a cathartic and contain nothing that stupefies. They tone up the nerves and tend to prevent returns of Headache and Neuralgia. They are guaranteed to do all that is claimed for them.

TESTIMONIALS.

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For years I have been a terrible sufferer from headache some six months ago my physician prescribed ^PheuycCafJein, and since then, by their use, I have not bad a severe headache, being

Yon bit the nail on the head when put Phenyo-Caffein

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are the best thing out for headache, P. Jones, M. D., Orleans, Mass.. One year ago I was one of tbe greatest sufferers from sick and nervous headache I ever knew. I no more have trouble with sick headache and seldom have even a slight headache. 1 attribute tbe greet change to joor Phenyo-Oaffoin, a remedy I could not do without if it cost $6 a box. I have tried a dosen or more medicines (warranted to core) without their even helping me. I can not praise your valuable preparation enough. Frank a Schmitt, Seymour, Indiana. rom IAXJC *X

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DEAFNESS

ITS CAUSES Am CUBE.

Scientifically treated by en aurist of worldwide reputation. Deafness eradicated and entirely cured, of from 30 to 90 years* standing, after all other treatments have failed. Bow the difficulty la reached and the cause removed, fully explained la circulars, with affidavits ana testimonials of cures from