Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 24, Number 13, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 23 September 1893 — Page 6

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PREVAILING STYLES.

THE MODE MARKET IS FLUCTUATING AND UNCERTAIN.

Bomon of Chute Are In the Air. but Summer Styles St It I Prevail at the Great Centers of Social Activity—A Few Late life

The flamboyant and florid style of jf jdress for which this season will go down I I3n the chronicles of dress as the supreme climax is going out in ablaze of glory.

Unless all signs fail and the fashion ed"y i*

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POPULAR WITH

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REACTION OF THE COLOE MANIA.

itor of the New York Sun is sadly astray in predicting the future, the antnmn will sea the last of the atrocious color combinations, the inartistic extravaganzas in design, which hare dominated the harlequin mode. The prevailing fancy for black and white is a natural reaction of the color mania, and as we rest our bedazzled eyes upon its simple and becoming charms we see the error of our prismatic ways and are prone to renounce the vanity of piecing and patching our garb with divers hues forever.

Parisian women have revived the popularity of accordion plaits, and the cunningly pressed and graceful folds have traveled triumphantly from plastron to bodice, from bodice (''own to skirt and up to parasol. The %st fantasy in veils is fine accordi. plaited tulle run With rows of colored ribbon. Most beautiful' are new silk gauzes imported for these gowns, finer than foulard, firmer than chiffon, and the the newest, quaintest conceit is of course that the gauze shall be black, with cream white trimming. They are plaited throughout-— skirt, sleeves and bodice—the latter closed with invisible fastenings. For dressy occasions the lining is cut low and has no sleeves, and in white or light tints may be of a contrasting color.

A pretty model, presenting few difficulties in copying, even to the amateur, is of the black silk gauze, with three rows of white insertion let into the material before plaiting, a belt of white and a plaited yoke, also of white lace. The Queen Anne sleeves, full at the elbow, have a fall of lace set in at the shoulder seam. This model is also pretty made up in black, with black insertions lin§d with green satin and a green yoke under tTio Vdco one.

For dressy dinner gowns come most gorgeously striped silks and satins in autumnal colors, of which the favorite trimming is still the black silk muslin ruchos and the lace ruffles. The gown shown in the first cut has muslin ruch-

PARISIAN

The Comforting Saltbag.

A very necessary article where there are children is a saltbag. A convenient sice is 6 inches square, made of heavy drilling or ticking. Stitch closely on three sides, then twice across at even spaces. Fill, not too heavily, with salt and stitch the opening. It holds heat and will soon relieve cramps, neuralgias etc. It is very convenient

1 1

FASHIONS IN COIFFURE.

Qulot Modes Becoming to Beauty, bat Trying to Plain Women.

The world belongs to pretty women, and the fullness thereof is theirs. To the women with the fairies* gift all else ahall be added, particularly in the domain of dress. It is for the pretty woman that modes are made and exquisite fabrics wrought. She needs the consideration of the designer much less than plainer women, but she receives it all the more in deplorably unjust ratio. Particularly this season does the plain woman feel bitterness in her soul at being deprived, through no fault of her own, of her birthright, for, says the New York Sun, every fashion now demands the sweet and gentle type of beauty known to the Amelias and Chorillas of a bygone day, before higher education and smartness and swagger came in.

The style of coiffure prevalent only a Romola or one of Miss Mulock's low voiced women could wear with becomingness, for the very latest thing in hairdressing, copied from the old4ime mode, has smooth and glossy tresses combed trimly down on either side a fine white parting, to be twisted in a soft coil at the back. This style of coiffure demands a delicate, youthful face, a low, broad forehead and an exquisitely molded head. Another style, much affected by young girls, is a modification of the 1820 style, witti ringlets falling down either side the face from a parting, the Mr knotted high in a puff in the center. The expression to be worn with this coiffnre should be one of sweet modesty and gentle nnopinionatedness.

Still smarter and becoming to the full fledged belle or youthful matron is that coiffure in which the hair is tossed back from the forehead to fall in soft, careless curls at the side or in a single

COPIED FROM THE OLD TIME MODES, curl in the middle of the forehead. Some women of the dark, Spanish type, with faultlessly regular features, dare attempt this style of coiffure with no curls and the smooth hair combed back lightly to the twist. Handsome women are distinguished, intellectual women striking, with this sort of framing. The woman who isn't so sure of herself and her beauty will pfirt her now dishonored bang a little at the side] perhaps and leave the soft fringe to fall over her forehead, and the petite style of woman, who has an irregular sort of beauty, waves h§r hpir into a tangle of curls, thai fall back apparently in spite of her, to flutter over her brow, while the sweet faced woman, with the small and pretty head and not a great deal of time to think of herself or her beauty anyway, unconsciously copies the Mrs. Cleveland coiffnre—the soft, wavy hair combed carelessly over back, to be twisted in a knot at the center of the head.

A

WOMEN

tags on the skirt. The yoke is made of satin puffs and is finished with plaitings of the muslin edged with lace, This yoke, cut after the latest models, is so deep on the shoulder that the plaitings fall over the arm, and the sleeve, plaited down flat at the top, flows out broadly at the elbow and is finished in a puff of lace and muslin.

3

Homrly Wrinkle*.

4

7

The holes aroona lamp burners should be kept clean of grease and dust to admit air.

Turn down the wicks in lamps after they are cleaned and trimmed, or they will draw oil over on the lamp.

There is economy in buying tea in large quantities, providing its careful use is assured.

Colors taken out of linens by careless washing or otherwise may be restored by immersing the article* in a solution of 1 part of acetic add to 13 parts of water. This is authoritative and worth remembering.

Spots on the wood of furniture may often be wtaoved by robbing vigorously with turpentine and sweet oil and then renewing polish by brisk rubbing.

The beat way to clean the thin iron spiders which have become burned and black is to boil a little vinegar and salt In them, when they may be easily scrubbed clean with any good kitchen acouriageoap.

Savory Breakftwt Dish.

The very tiniest bit of minced ham and tongue moistened with a little cream and spread over the bottom of a baking dish resolves itself into a savory breakfast if one egg for each person be dropped on the mince and the dish placed in the oven until the eggs set

———.

'^IkelVay to Influence Gas Bill*.

The decorations of walls prove to have a very important influence upon gas bills. From recent figures by Dr. Sumpner, according to Invention, it has been calculated that, with different decorations, a room would be equally lighted by the following candle powers: Black cloth, 100 dark brown paper, 97 blue paper, 72: clean yellow paint, 00 clean wood, 60 dirty wood, 80 cartridge par per, 20 whitewash, 15. Only about on©sixth as much illumination is necessary tor the whitewashed room as for the same room papered in dark brown.

A Traveling Coetnme.

The French traveling costuiaeS jjrfrpared for September are the simplest imaginable, the severity of the cloth skirt and jacket being relieved merely by the dainty chemisette or rest of silk

READY fOR A JOCRXEY.

The plain costume here illustrated is described in the New York Tribune as being made up in dark bl ue vigogne. The skirt has five rows of a very pretty galon In bine of lighter &ads. The chemisette is of surah in the Kame shade of light blew and is held to the waist by draped girdle of the mam. The sfceve of tbe beautifully cut coat is cut is one piece. The skirt of the coat is quite full a the back, following the lines of tbe fullness of tbe bell skirt.

There Is en Art In Boiling, and Pew Know How to Mash Them.

There are many possibilities in a dish of cold boiled potatoes. They can be fried, usM in the making of bread and cake, put into a pie or pudding with meat, utilized in hash, soup and many other ways.

The first step toward a dish of delicious mashed potatoes is the preparatory one of boiling the tubers—not too long, or the result will be a paste none can eat. Neither must they be underdone, but just sufficient to break into a flourlike mass under the potato masher, when a little salt and milk or cream and butter should be added, according to taste and opinion. The milk should never be overdone and as to butter, that can be added at table if deficient, and so also the seasoning. Oversalting hopelessly spoils the dish, and if an overproportion of milk be used and any of the di«h remains cold it is almost pertain to turn sour.

Cold mashed potatoes can be utilized as a supper dish, or they can remain for use in breadmaking. If the former, mold the potato into small flat cakcs and fry in sweet butter. Dipped in beaten eggs and bread crumbs they are made richer, but not more wholesome.

Workbag For the Drawing Boom.

The pretty receptacle here illustrated is designed for such fancy work a3 finds its way into the drawing room on informal occasions. Hung on the arm of an easy chair or swinging negligently

TERRE HAUTE SATURDAY EVENING MAIL, SEPTEMBER 23,1893.

HOW TO COOK POTATOES.

There is a prevailing opinion that every one knows how to cook a potato. This opinion is the very reverse of the fact. The best of potatoes are toooften spoiled in the cdoking. From being oue of the most tasteful and nutritious of vegetables it may be made both disagreeable even disgusting, all through the manipulations of an incompetent Bridget.

The greatest amount of "mealiness" lies near the skin, and parings half an inch thick dispense effectually with desideratum." On the other hand, how disgusting are patches of skin and "eyes" left here and there!" To pare potatoes properly you must not have a blunt knife, but ratfier a small, sharp pointed one that can deal with deep set eyes and awkward protuberances. New potatoes should have their skins brushed off or scraped off with a knife.

Undoubtedly there is an art in boiling potatoes well. To accomplish this result let your potatoes be sizable or cut to almost equal size let them lie in cold water for half an hour or more after paring put them in boiling water, just enough to cover them, adding a little salt, and let them boil, not too fast, until they are nearly ready to break. Pour off the water quickly, set the saucepan with the potatoes on the stove for a minute with the lid off, give them a shake and place them in the vegetable dish, which has been warmed, and cover them lightly with a napkin. They should beeateii at once, or they will soon pass the condition of prime.

A PLUSH WORKBAG.

from some bracket, it gives a hoinelike appearance to the scene with its escaping ends of many colored silks and embroidery cottons.

The bag depicted is made In garnet plush and is closed with double ribbons, which are knotted to form two flying loops with swallow ends. The two square panels, front and' oack, are trimmed with gold lace and a floral trail either painted or embroidered. They can effectively be replaced by odds and ends of old brocade or eastern embroidery.

The lorgnette.

The lorgnette seemtf to have given place this season to the Louis Quinze eyeglass, which is a sort of compromise of the two extremes of lorgnette and pince nez. This is worn attached to a cord, or if one likes things a little showy to a slender chain of gold or silver matching the dainty trifle. To many persons the lorgnette—the long handled shell affair which is thrust in the corsage to be drawn forth at unexpected moments and transfix its victim with a level stare—is an intolerable impertinence. There is an air about it certainly, but ft is not a good air except when it is in the hands of the most well bred and refined woman.

Echoes From the World of Fashion. Parisians have coined a word to signify a woman who rides a bicycle. It is "veloce woman."

Widow's veils are of English crape at first and later of grenadine, or what is caSed nlk veiling. Hie Brussels net veils, bordered with a fold of English crape, may be worn in the last season cf wearing mounting by a widow.

Today, under tbe reign of thg» shirt waist and girdle, the booming question is, "How do yon keep your belt down?"

Tbe modern tailor made woman is fitted by a man. Many expert wheel women disfigure themselves in heavy and ungainly skirts, which retard their progress and cause those who observe them

to condemn bi­

cycling as an twftaxrfnineand ungraceful sport. There was never a season when ribbons played so important a part in the dress question. Worth makes entire dresses of than.

A HOMEMADE COUCH.

iiV-

ITS POSSIBILITIES WHEN THE HANDI-

Of Graceful Frame, Yielding Springs* Soft Cushions and Tasteful Cover, It Is a HaTen of Rest For the Household—How to Make It.

The "settle" which was a feature of the habitations of our grandfathers was of home manufacture, and it was strong —so much at least can be said for it. but when it comes to eulogizing those old settles on the score of comfort a very vivid imagination is required. Its angn-

THE COUCH COMPLETED.

larity and hardness, however, were probably not noticed in those days as they would be at present, because the people were not then familiar with many of the comforts and luxuries that pertain to living in the latter part of the nineteenth century.

What a sigh of contentment "gran'sir"' would have given could he have stretched himself out for an evening's nap after a hard day's toil upon such a couch as is figured herewith! There were no springs covered with soft material in the rough affair on which he stretched his weary limbs, but there are' in this one. The slats across the frame are thickly set with the spiral springs that can be bought of the upholsterers, and these are then covered with a firm piece of "ticking" or burlap, and over this is evenly spread the material of which hair mattresses are made, or the finest and softest excelsior, or even a fine quality of a "springy" variety of meadow hay.

Then comes the cover, but first it may be found best to secure the hair, excelsior or hay with a cover of calico or cotton cloth to keep it properly in place and to make it feel softer beneath the outer covering which may be put on as suggested in the illustration, the sim5 I'tl 7 »nfll«?5

A

vst PROCESS OP MAKING.

pUcity of the shape making the covering an easy matter, or, what is still easier, a portiere curtain can be bought and spread over tbe couch, with its ends and sides

hanging

gracefully down about it.

They are used in this way at present and can be bought in rich, soft and handsome patterns, the portieres of the material known as "raw silk" being excellent for this purpose.

The framework of this couch, originally designed for The Country Gentleman, is co plainly shown that explanation is hardly needed, and the young person or the older person who has some ingenuity and a bit of skill in handling tools ought to be able to make a couch of this sort that if not "a joy forever" will certainly prove a joy for no small number of years.

Minced Meats.

There are minces and minces, just as there are hashes and hashes. Some are fit food for the epicure others are endured for lack of something better. George Augustus Sala gives his own recipe for minces, and it reads as if it might be worth trying apart from the author's reputation as a bon vivant:

Take a fine rump steak undressed, and with a sharp knife shred it very fine. Put it into a stewpan with a little clarified butter and some salt stir it over a quick fire for some minutes then add half a pint of good beef gravy let it boil gently till it becomes of a proper thickness. Cut two fine cucumbers in slices the thickness of a crown piece and put them with an onion sliced in a stewpan with some clarified butter, a little vinegar, a lump of sugar, and fry them of a fine brown color put them in a stewpan with some plain sauce let it simmer gently till sufficiently done then lay the mince in the dish and pour the cucumber over it thicken the sauce with a little flour and^butter a4d the squeeze of a lemon just before serving.

Coaiport China Salad Dish.

The praises of the salad have often been sung, and the salad dish should not be forgotten. All connoisseurs will agree that, however excellently this delicacy itself may be concocted, it is not quite perfect unless daintily served, There-

DISH FOR CUT CCCCMBEK8.

fore the «tl^ dish receives much attention from manufacturers who bring out many and attractive designs. Our .cut shows a new dish for cut cucumbers in the Coaiport china, which has many admirers, set in a silver frame and with silver server.

Cleaning ZJgfct Woolens.

Powdered French chalk is recommended for cleaning light woolens. It is inexpensive and maybe procured at any drugstore. Cover the soiled parts thickly with the chalk, let it remain a day or two and then remove with a camel's hair velvet brash. It is claimed that in moat pattr treatment wQl cause the spots to disappear entirely.

Se

IF I HAD KNOWN YOU. _____— ... ....

tt I had known you—oh, if I had known you— In other days when youth and love were strong, I would have raised & temple to enthrone you

On some fair rinnaclo of cloudless song. If you had touched me then with your dear laughter.

As now its echo smites me ia my grief, I would have given uiy soul to you, and after Lived in my love, grown old in my belief. If you had loved mo—oh, you would have loved me—

Earth would have worshiped us, its seers sublime, Sly sons had been a psalm, and saints had proved me f*"Propbet and priest, your poet for all time. —W. S. Blunt.

W*

Doing Keportorlal TTork In Kew York.

The ignorance of some Englishmen in American affairs and American history is something appalling. This is illustrated in one particular at least by the following incident:

Not many mouths ago a certain New York newspaper had on its staff a young Briton, a university graduate and a man who took honors in the dead languages at his college.

Some time before the death of ex-Presi-dent Hayes the young man was sent to the Fifth Avenue hotel to obtain an interview with that gentleman, who was then stopping temporarily in the city.

Arriving at tho hotel the young man sent up his name and shortly afterward was ushered into the presence of Mr. Hayes. "Are you ex-President Hayes?" queried the Englishman, not wishing to be mistaken in his man. "Yes," replied the ex-president. "What can I do for you?" "Oh, I was sent to interview you," returned the reporter, and he at once set out to obtain Mr. Hayes' impressions of New York and the country. The ex-president conversed entertainingly for a few moments, and the Englishman took his leave.

No sooner had he got outside of the door, however, than a thought struck him. He must know more about the man with whom he had talked. Opening the door again, therefore, he thrust his head in and asked, "I beg your pardon, Mr, Hayes, but would you mind telling me of what you were president?"—New York Herald.

'f." Neither Was Boss.

Two gentlemen were talking about a business enterprise in which, though it involved some pecuniary risk, they were strongly inclined to embark. Finally one of them remarked, "I must consult my wife before^ decide." "Why?" exclaimed the other. "Is she boss?" "No," was the calm reply. "Neither am I. We area well matched team, and we don't drive tandem. My wife is as much interested in the welfare of our family as I, and she has aright to have a voice in the investment of our little property."

There is nothing more than justice in this view of matrimonial obligation, especially in the case of poor or only moderately well to do families—and these comprise an overwhelmingly large proportion of the families in this country—where a slight increase or diminution of the annual earnings would be felt alike by every member. Tbe wife, who has labored in the home to earn or to save, while the husband has labored in the field, the shop or the counting room, is justly a partner in his earnings and their savui. I should share ln all his plans of of their small accumulations, so as to make them more productive if all goes well.—Boston Herald. ..

Hundreds of peoplo write "It is imossible to describe the good Hood's r*aparilla has done me." It will be of equal help to you.

Unfermented Grape Juice.

Bottling grape juice is as simple as canning fruit. It must be kept in a cool place and used soon after opening the same as canned fruit, for exposure to the air will start fermentation. The process is simple. Use pure juice from ripe grapes strain to remove any portions of pulp that remain in the juice as it comes from the press, heat to nearly the boiling point and bottle while hot. Put no sugar nor anything else in it. Bottle as soon as you can after it has been

ressed from the grapes, so that there can no chance for fermentation, and you have the most healthful and invigorating drink that can be found, as it contains everything to make pure, healthy blood and nothing of a deleterious charactei which we find in most of the prepared drinks, hard and soft, of the present day.— Cor. Rural New Yorker.

I have not used ail of one bottle yet. 1 suffered from catarrh for twelve years, experiencing the nauseating dropping in the throat peculiar to that disesse, and nose bleed almost daily. I tried various remedies without benefit until last April, when IsawEly's Cream Balm advertised in the Bostbn Budget. I procured a bottle, and since tbe first days' use have had no more bleeding—the soreness is entirely gone —D. G. Davidson, with the Boston Budget, formerly with Boston Journal.

JLane's Family Medicine Moves the Bowels Hacb

day. Most people need to use it.

PHENYO-CAFFEIN.

If you Have Headache or Neuralgia, Take Phenyo-Caffein Pills.

They are effectual in relieving Pain, and In curing Headache or Neuralgia. They are not a cathartic and contain nothing that stupefies. They tone up the nerves and tend to prevent returns of Headache and Neuralgia. They are guaranteed to do all that claimed for them.

TESTIMONIALS.

I have never seen anything act so promptly as Phenyo-Caflein in sick and nervous Headache. Many case* have been cured and not any failures reported. H. L. Farrer, Belle Voir, N. C.

For yeans I have been a terrible sufferer from headache some six months ago my physician prescribed PbenyoCaflein, and since then, by their use, I have nqt bad a severe headache, being able to stop them completely in their incipience. J. H. Stanoard, Concord, N. H.

You bit the nail on the bead when yon put Phenyo-Caffein on tbe market. They are tbe beat tbing out for headache, E P. Jones, M. IX, Orleans, Mas*.

One year ago I was one of tbegrsaws* sufferers from sick- and nervous headache I ever knew, I no more have trouble with sick headache and seldom have even a slight headache. I attribute tbe great change to your Phenyo Caffeln. a remedy I oould not do without if it cost a box. I have tried a dozen or more medicines (warranted to cure) without their even helping me. I can sot praise your valuable preparation enough. Frank 8. Scbmitt, Seymour, Indiana.

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TTOTEL RICHMOND JlL

Lester Building. If, or

State

Nr

fcflWl*1tnnieslan,

UmOtf

RTMM'MMMKtfMfiga

EUROPEAN.

E. A. FROST, Propr. Formerly mans«er Sherwood Hou#e, Evftnsvllle, Ind., late Mangr. Hotel

Oroce,

Chicago.

Boots* 75c, fl.OO, $1 .SO Per Dmy. fK«am Beat, Centrally located, two blocks from

F. O. and Auditorium, opp. the

and

naw

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DEAFNESS

ITS CAUSES AMD CUKB.

entirely cured,

at from

20 to years' stand­

ing, after all other treatments have failed. Bow tbe difficulty Is reached and the cause removed, fully explained In circulars, with affidavits aim testimonials of cures from