Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 24, Number 9, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 26 August 1893 — Page 6
6.
ss
WOMAN'S FASHIONS.
8ERGE DRESSES AND BLOUSE WAISTS THE PREVAILING STYLES.
Modified Belt Skirt 8UU Used In the Dresaea Now Worn—Butt Cloaks of 8tiot Silk Worn on All Occasion*—Combination of Gray. White and Black.
First of all, something must be said in a general v/ay about the features of %rthe fashions of the season, says the New
York Herald. On© of the most striking facte la the acceptance by Parisiennes of a style/•set in England-—in regard to materials, that is—the make of conpe always retaining that special note which distinguishes the Paris made costume from any other. Serge of course preserves its place, as it is one of the most useful materials, besides lending itself to almost anything in the way of making up.
A charming dress is of fine gray cashmere cloth, a thin and light fabric quite suited for any wear and trimmed with abroad band of black braid headed with a curly design in white braid. The contrast of the black, the white and the gray is happy, and the style of the dress is good, with its short bodice and cape collar, displaying at the throat a cravat of chiffon, and its well setting skirt trimmed with rows of black followed by the white braid. Deserving of a number of adjectives is a pearl gray silken crepon finely crinkled and trimmed around the ST* Wf
A SERGE DRESS#
UlMrt with a deep flounce of bice lace, fltirery light and pretty in design and -"^caught up gracefully at the sides and in front, where the lace formed a point, with smartly tied bows of heliotrope glace velvet. The corsage of crepon had three points of ecra insertion from neck to waist, enframed on either side by two bnoelike draperies of heliotrope JJJyelvet crinkled into bows on the shoulflers and reassembled at the waist by a third small bow that made a very pretty finish from beneath the brotelles. Over the shoulders sprang capelike oversleeves of lace, matching the skirt trimming.
The full sleeves of gray crepon, in one traff, reached the elbows only, where they terminated in a sabot flounce of lace. A little Punchinello hat of mauve itraw, plaited with silver oord and eaught up in front slightly to the left plde with a graceful gerbe of green oats and clover, rising from a small rosettelike bunch of scarlet poppies, was prepared to accompany this costume, with Which long pearl gray suede gloves, the exact tint of the crepon, were to be worn.
The latest dust cloaks are really so rliah that they are worn on all and evjr oocasion. One of soft beige crepon in the shape of a pilgrim's robe, havfull han^ng sleeves. It has a deep Ordering of black satin ribbon and ties of the same, with long ends and bows at the throat and waist. Another is of shot green and gray silky alpaca, trimmed With blaok lace insertion, A third is of putty colored crepon, with narrow rows of black silk stitching by way of trim-
CJUEFOX WAIST.
Xning. This is very neat, tbe stitching being ornamental without detracting from the usefulness of the wrap. Black "k of the softest make, lined with pale ie, pink, green, yellow oar shot silk, a mote serviceable and dressy cloak than those of a light color. It should back, the capo jpaannesr, Suing to the eowt
fit tightly to the waist at the being folded over In fichu allowing j«st a glimpse of the a little color and lighten somber character of the garment,
'ST' 'A ton. A little saltpeter or soda or a rusty in water to keep flowers fresh.
A cotton fiannei covering for the broom to "brushing up.** Reviving leather chair seats with white egg. Mending torn books with white tissue
loving grease from garments by sponging with ooe tableapoonful of salt to a W 1
Kcbbing a creaking hinge with a very •oft lead psacii.
After j§|
Obort, crisp hits of celery are passed about the table, after the%lack coffee of aoours* dinner, to accompany the chetm —a sensible toakof fashion, as thadfr. gestlv* qualities of ©sissy b*v» kefbM trsll known.
HAJRDRESSINQ.
The Brighton Bon Not a Becoming Stylo, bat New. By every legitimate device is womankind fighting the Brighton bun, which still threatens. The most effective tne? od yet discovered is the inventing of ncv.-
BRAIDS/AND KNOTS,
and beautiful styles, which have only to be seen to be admired and imitated. Here area few such:
The young person with a fairly classical outline can indulge in the coil midway between the top of the head' and the nape of the neck. If the locks are waved lightly back, and a few—a very few— loose curls lie upon the forehead and cling about the neck, the effect is still prettier.
The girl to whom styles quaint rather than classical are becoming may try the knot at the point where the top of the head rolls into the back. Her front and side hair must be very loosely gathered up, or the effect will be' far from pleasing.
When one wishes to look especially stately and does not intend to attempt a hat, the softly puffed coils high on the top of the head are becoming. And for every day wear, with the every day sailor, the knot or braid in the back remains the best possible coiffure.
II
Manicure Case.
No matter how careful one may be to keep her hands gloved while traveling, they still seem to require a great deal of attention. A little manicure case will be found most useful, as it may be rolled ap and placed in the linen traveling bag. Cut two pieces of gray or ecru linen 6 by 9 inches, with one end pointed. Embroider the outer piece with daisies in yellow silk with brown centers, done in French knots. On the inner piece, at the bottom, set a pocket 2 inches deep and 8 wide, gathering in the extreme fullness and dividing it into two compartments with a row of feather stitching. Mark the pockets with the article each is to oontain, done in yellow silk, and have a pointed flap on each to button down. Above these set on another pocket of the same size, but divided unequally, for the powder and polisher. Bind with brown silk braid and tie shut with yellow or brown ribbon.
Green Portieres.
The richest effect in velvet portieres is seen in one of shades of green sewed together lengthwise. It is decorated in gold thread and a large bold thistle design. A knotted heavy fringe falls across the upper end.
Dressmaker*' Chat.
The present mode of wearing extremely full sleeves is most decidedly unbecoming to stout, broad shoulders, while the space between the ruffles or bands is a great improvement to those requiring a long skirt (43 inches and over), as it tends to make a short and stout figute more dumpy looking. They should never wear anything trimmed around the skirts or waists, unless a very narrow trimming on the bottom of the skirt. Narrow stripes in the material, running vertically, give the figure a much taller effect
Sleeves as full as possible, with wide ruffles foiling over, improve the figure of a narrow shouldered, slender person who is tall, but they must be graduated smaller for those who are short and slender.
A stout person should never wear a large plaid, check or polka dot, whatever the fashion, while these are very becoming to those who are thin or tall.
A brunette makes a great mistake in wearing delicate or light shades if she has an olive or "muddy" complexion.
The haircloth in present use for stiffening the skirt at the bottom comes so narrow that it requires four yards for a single skirt consequently Si yards of linen canvas cut bias come much cheaper and answer just as well for the purpose. It is best to get the velveteen also on the bias, and three-eighths of a yard will be sufficient to bind the bottom of a dress if cut in four stripe,
I do not mean by this that she is to deprive herself of a touch of bright color in a somber bonnet or onadress of sober hue, for that serves but to give an artistic
finish
to the whole if the,color be
suitable to her complexion.
Plain Skirt* Worn.
There are still worn perfectly plain skirls, and these are usually seen on the best dressed women of fashion.
Mackerel With Cream Saace. Soak over night in lukewarm water, changing this in the morning for ice cold, Rub &U the salt off and wipe dry, Grease your gridiron with butter and rub the fish on both Mdea with the same, melted. Then broil quickly over aclear fire, turning with a cake turner so aajaot to break iL Lay upon a hot water dish and cover until the sauce is ready.
Heat a small cap of milk to sodding* Stir into it a teaspoonftd of cornstarch wet up with a little water. When this thickens, Mid 2 teblespooafals of butter, tapper, salt and chopped parsley. Beat an €«g light, pour the sauce gradually om it* pat the mixture again ovwr the fiw and stir one minute, not lEore. Pour upon the fish and let it stand coveted over the hot water in the chafing dish. Put fr«h boiling
water
before
under
TERRE HAUTE SATURDAY E
the
sending to table.
dish
SfcsMwa** Tammy*
R-fLimUm* bddioes, flaring skirts and distended sleeves sum up the faehiosts for the
CAftE OF THE SHOW.
Flannel Cloth and Yiwelfe®Retter Than Any If you -would have yoar shoes retain their pristine freshness longer than a week, do not treat them with polishes and dressings, each one of which daisis to be the best and least injurious. As soon as you come in front a walk dust them carefully with a soft flannel kept for that purpose. jLet them air as yon do your underclothes, and when they are dry stuff them with soft tissue paper. Button or lace them over this. In Ibis •way they will keep their shape^ifor a longtime.
When they are so worn that they must be brightened, rub them with a flannel cloth and a little vaseline. Apply the grease carefully, not merely smearing it over the
surface
of the leather, bet
rubbing it in. When it is completely absorbed, rub briskly with fresh flannel.' Do not wear your waking boots in the house and do not walk in your slippers. Keep a pair of shoes suitable for each occasion. In this way, though you may seem to have an extravagant supply, you will be really displaying an economical spirit. Shoes worn indoors and out not only soon lose their brightness and neatness, but last only about one-third as long as if they were occasionally relieved. If%-
Have low canvas and russet shoes for outdoor games. Have a pair of stout, full length boots if you area mountain climber or a record breaker in pedestrianism. For such feats as those the ankles require all the support they can obtain. Have a pair of patent leather shoes for your calling and ceremonious affairs, a pair of slippers for general morning wear and a pair of extremely dainty ones for evening wear. With this supply rightly treated you will find yourself properly prepared as to shoes for any summer emergency, and you will not spend any more money than the woman who has only two pairs at a time, but who has to replace those every month or so te?
Carpet Sweeping:.
With a little care you can sweep the dirtiest carpet without raising much of a dust by placing outside the door of the room to be swept a pail of clear, cold water. Wet your broom, knock it against the side of the bucket to get out all the drops, sweep a couple of yards, then rinse off the broom again. Continue this until you have gone over the entire surface. If the carpet is very much soiled, the water should be changed several times. Slightly moistened Indian meal is also used by the oldest housewives. Snow, if not allowed to melt, is also excellent as a dust settler.
Do Yon Know?
Do you know that you can drive
nailB
into hard wood without bending them if you dip them first into lard? That corks warmed in oil make excellent substitutes for glass stoppers?
That a lump of camphor in your clothespress "will keep steel ornaments from tarnishing?
That stale bread will clean kid gloves? That bread crumbs cleanse silk gowns? That milk, applied once a week witha soft cloth, freshens and preserves boots and shoes?
That gloves can be cleaned at home by rubbing with gasoline? That weak spots in a black silk waist may be strengthened by sticking court plaster underneath?
That tooth powder is an excellent cleanser for fine filigree jewelry? That a little vaseline, rubbed in once a day, will keep the hands from chapping?
That gum arabic and gum tragacanth in equal parts, dissolved in hot water, make the best and most convenient mucilage you can keep in the house?
Baked Omelet.
Heat 8 Ctips of milk, melting in it a bit of butter as large as a walnut. Beat well together 5 eggs, a teaspoon of flour and a scant teaspoon of salt and add to the hot milk, stirring as rapidly as possible. Turn into a hot, well buttered frying pan and bake in a quick oven onequarter of an hour.
Have a Sewing Boom.
The wise housewife is she who would rather dispense with a reception room and have a sewing room than vice versa. The sewing room does not need to be large. It must not contain oarpets or upholstered furniture. The floor should be stained and varnished, so that the daily brushing up may be easily accomplished, There should be hooks on the wall, from which the piecebags should hang. Several shelves are necessary, where boxes containing buttons, trimmings, findings^patterns and the like should be kept. A lapboard, an armless rocking chair, a dress form and a big closet for unfinished work are other necessaries. Hie machine should be placed in a strong light, and there should be a long mirror, in which the "hang" of a skirt may be viewed with ease.
Bananas and Oranges.
Peel and slice 6 bananas, sprinkle with sugar, with a little orange juice between the layers, using 1 large or 2 smaU oranges for 6 Put them on the ice until thoroughly cold, then s6rve with whipped cream.
Vade of Crape Paper.
An elaborate article displayed in store windows is a glovebox. One seen is about 18 inciies and 9 indies wide. It Is of courae built of card-
/_ GlXmftfcSD FAS BOX. board, but the crape hides every sign of the material- The lining is a dainty
Tbe slightly rounded cover is marked with the color brush,
tbe sides are tinted with little dabs of color h«r* and there and the inevitable}
FOR A COLOGNE BOTTLE.
Using Colored Silk With KibtKm to §3|||F» Correspond. l||fi Materials1—Half ounce crochet ealk, 6 yards of satin ribbon. inch wide, and a steel hook.
Chain 8 and join. First Round—Thirty-two dc. over the ring.
Second Round—Ch. 2,2 tr., in 1st tr., ch, 1, 2 tr., in same stitch, ch. 2, skip 3 tr., 2 tr. in next stitch, ch. 1,2 tr. in same stitch. Repeat from until you have 8 shells, ch. 2, join.
WHEN FINISHED.
Third Round—Ch. 2, *, make a shell in middle of shell of last row, ch. 2. Repeat through the round.
Work 31 more rows like 3d, then work a row of holes by putting 1 tr. between the shells, ch. 3,1 tr. in middle of shell.
Next Round—Ch. 2, *, 2 tr., ch. 1 and 2 tr. (shell) in 1 hole, 1 tr. in next hole. Repeat from until you have 8 shells, join.
Next Round—Ch. 2, 8 tr,, ch. 1 and 8 tr. (shell) in middle of each shell. Work 3 more rows like the last. Finish with 6 tr. in each shell 1 sc. between the shells. firm ribbon up and down the length of the bottle between the shells.
This cover is suitable for German farina cologne bottle. A number of these made of, different shades crochet silk will sell well at a fair./^Make the bows dainty as possible.
mm-
In the same way a match receiver may be made. Procure one of the small glass tumblers crochet the cover, then slip the tumbler into it. They look very pretty when suspended from the chandelier, and are always ready to drop in the burned matches, which look so untidy strewn about.
Blscnit of Clams.
One quart of milk, 12 clams, a small onion, an egg, a large pinch of salt, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, half teaspoonful cornstarch, a little parley chopped fine. Put clams and onion, with the milk, in a double boiler, let them simmer slowly for an hour, mix the cornstarch and flour with a little milk, beat until it is light and foamy, then stir into the simmering milk, continuing to stir them until it is cooked. Add the salt and a beaten egg, strain the soup and sprinkle the parsley over it.
Xitincheon Cloth and Doilies. Among the dainty novelties which may be added to the linen closet is a set of six fruit doilies. They are round in shape and made of grass linen. A design of strawberry fruit and blossoms is embroidered in wash silk upon one. Another has clusters of cherries forming the border, while luscious raspberries, gooseberries, currants and grapes decorate the others.
An odd idea for an individual fruit doily is one cut in the shape of an enlarged strawberry leaf. The edges are epibroidered in white silk. In the cenIter on smalll^r leaves there are unhulled strawberries worked in red. This doily should be placed beneath a glass bowl of strawberries.
A oloth to be spread over the table on the occasion of an informal late supper is oblong in shape and made of twilled satin linen, witha border of drawn work. At one end, delicately embroidered, is a plate of bread or some bits of cheese. On the other end axe two little figures, a boy and a girl caught kissing. They are simply worked in outline.
Baby's Parasol Cover.
A pretty parasol top for a baby carriage is made of point d'esprit lace. Over the deep ruffle forgetmenots are lavishly embroidered. The cover is lined with blue silk. Another designed for a most aristocratic baby is of white silk mull, over which bunches of daisies are embroidered. This is lined with pale green ftjllr, ___
All About Bananas.
Of all the fruit which floods the market at all seasons the banana holds for itself the choicest place.' The large importers declare it is destined to be the fruit of the future. It is a picturesque plant and reaches the height of 16 to 20 feet, the stem terminating in a tuft of leaves 5 to 10 feet long and afoot wide. It is to the West Indiana staple article of food, and with a little meat and fish the native can perform much labor by its nutritious properties.
Nowadays the model housewife is learning the various uses pertaining to the banana. It is a delightful dish for breakfast and a tasty and favorable one for dessert. Bananas are healthful and are beneficial not only to children, who delight in them, but for the old, who enjoy all fruits in season.
The Hew Handkerchiefs.
N%W handkerchiefs are very dainty this season and quite elaborate, with embroidery in colors and white. Some have hemstitched bands of contrasting colors, others are striped with vines in various tints, and not a few are edged with lace.
In Place of Maple Strop.
Desiring maple amp for our batter cakes when the store was too remote to furnish our need at short notice, we prepared the following substitute, which was unanimously elected to a high position in the bill of fare: A pound of brown sogOr was dissolved in the least water possible, barely enough to keep the sugar from stfeteing fast to the porcekin lined kettle. It w*s then boiled one minute, removed from the fire, poured into a sirup cap, three drops of extract of vanilla added, and behold—nectar, homy nor maple sirup could excel our "lacentsfrop tinct with" vanilla*
A lanAsos Didu
Raw tomatoes, over which mayonna&e flumniiig has been poured, are served Whole on a lew leaves of lettuce and cm salad plates of the pate green wbkh is •apersedlng the aforetime favorite bltsa Chios.
MATT ^AUGUST 26,1893.
The standard blood purifier, strength builder and nerve helper is Hood's Sarsapariila. Insist upon Hood's, because HOOD'S CURES-
Sweetness of a Phrase.
There is a tender sweetness about some of our common phrases of affectionate greeting, simple and unobtrusive as they are, which fails like dew upon the heart. •'Good niglrt!" The little one lisps it as, gowned in white, -with shining face aad hands and prayers said, she toddles off to bed. Sisters and mothers exchange the wish, parents and children, friends and friends.
Familiar use has robbed it of its significance to some of us. We repeat it automatically without much thought. But eonside?. We are as voyagers, putting off from time to time upon nn unexplored sea. Our barks of life set sail and go onward into the darkness, and we, asleep on our oars, take no such care as we do when awakened and journeying by daylight. Of the perils of the night, whatever they may be, we take no htcd. An unsleeping vigilance watches over us, but it is the vigilance of one stronger and wiser than we, who is the eternal good. Good and God spring from the same root, are the same in meaning. "Goodby" is only "God be with you.:' "Good night" is really "God night," or "God guard the night."
It would be a churlish household in which these gentle forms of speech were ignored or did not exist. Alike the happy and the sorrowful day by day may say, "Goodnight."—New YOrk Commercial Advertiser,
Iff
The Beauty Standard.
The standard of female loveliness varies greatly in different countries and with Individual tastes. Some prefer the plump and buxom type some admire the slender and sylph-like, and some the tall and queenly maiden. But among all people Of the Caucasian race, one point of beauty is always admired—a pure, clear and spotless complexion— whether the female be of the blonde, brunette, or hazel-eved type. This first great requisite of loveliness can be sssuredonly by a pure state of the blood, active liver, good appetite and digestion, all of which are secured by the use of
Dr. Pierce's Golden Medical Discovery. It is guaranteed to accomplish all that is olaimed for it, or money refunded. It you would have a clear, lovely complexion, free from eruptions, moth patches, spots and blemishes, use the "Golden Medical Discovery."
THE CHILDREN'S ROOM.
How peaceful at nlglit Tho sleeping children lie, Each gentle breath so light
Escaping like «. sigh!
How tranquil seems tho room, how fair To one who softly enters tl:ere!
Whose hands are those, tinseen, That smooth each little bed? Whose locks»are those that lean
Over each pillowed head?
Whose Hps caress the boys and girls? Whose fingers stroke tho golden curls?
Whose are tho yearning eyes, And whose the trembling tear? Whose heart is this that cries,
Beseeching God to hear?
Whose butt ho pother's, in whose face Love shows its sweetest dwelling place?:
Here hopes in beauty bloom, And heaven sends down Its light, ^^Which lingers in the room ^Where mother says, "Good night.? Boft treading by the sleepers there, Horvery presence seems a prayer! —Exchange 1
1
Dainty Splashers.
In a summer cottage quite the effective feature of every bedroom was the wadhstand splasher. A wide piece of cottage drapery, shirred on a slender gilt rod and suspended by white ribbon bands, formed the background of the toilet stand, falling to the floor and coming well out on both sides. The protection of the delicate wall paper was perfect, and the graoeful banners imparted an airy effect that added much to the prettiness of the rooms.—New Tork Times.
To Cream Butter.
Before creaming butter pour some hot water into the creaming bowl. Then turn It out, dry and in a minute or two put in the butter. Add the sugaralittle ata tkne, Stirring either with the hand or a wooden •poon.
We have sold Ely's Cream Balm about three years, and have recommended its use in more than a hundred special cases of catarrh. The unanimous answer to our inquiries is, "It's the best remedy that I have ever used." Our experience is, that where parties continued its use, it never fails to cure.—J. H. Montgomery A Co., Druggists, Decorab, Iowa.
When I began using Ely's Cream Balm ray catarrh was so bad I had headache the whole time and discharged a large amount of filthy matter. That has almost disappeared and I have not bad headache since.—J. H. Sommers, Stephney, Conn.
line's Family Medicine Moves the Bowels Each day. Most people need to use it.
PHENYO-CAFFEIN.
If you Have Headache or Neuralgia, Take Phenyo-Caffein Pills.
They are effectual in relieving Pain, and in curing Headache or Neuralgia. They are not a catbarlic and contain nothing that stupefies. They tone up the nerves and tend to prevent returns of Headache and Neuralgia. They are guaranteed to do all that is claimed for them. -.:•-*
TESTIMONIALS.
I have never seen anything act so promptly as Phenyo-Cafteln In slok and nervous
You hit tbe nation the head whenyou put Pbeoyo-CafTein on the market. They are the best thing out tor headache, E. P. Jones, M.Orleans, Mans.
One year ago I was one of tbe greatest sufferers from sick and nervous headache I ever knew. I no mors have trouble with sick headache and seldom have even a slight hcadache. 1 attribute
eostfSabosv 1 have tried a doeen or more medicines (warranted to cure) without their even helping me. I can not praise your valuable preparation enouah. Frank 8. Bchmitt, Seymour, Indiana. for mjub bt irocit bbuogjw*.
JL MEDIGIHE
THAT MAKES flOOD BLOOD
CILMORE'S AROMATIC HKIHE
Will completely change the blood in your system in three months' time, and send new, rich blood eoursing through your veins. IX you feel exhaastod and nervous, are getting thht and all run down, Gilmore'a Aromatic Wine, which is a tonio and not a beverage, will restore yoa to health and strength-
Mothers, uselttor your daughters. It is tbe oest regulator and corrector tor Hit ailments peculiar to woman. It enriches tho blood and gives lasting strength. It is guaranteed to cure Diarrhoea, Dysentery, and all Summer Complaints, and keep the bowtus Ttgnlir.
Sold by all druggists for $1 per bottle.
MOOtt.
Ho'0*
LW.USTISW
Tnorsen $ (assady@
UAO.NO 6v» BICYCLE DEAU^S.
60 WabashA (,
Western Agents.
rtL.
Snglr Copt«Inrtrtlin enteral fUin twMv Mr» fart
Established 186L
QLIFT
Pi
Headache. Many cases haVe
been cured and not any failure reported. H. li. JFarrer, Belle Voir, N. C. For years I have been a terrible sufferer from headache some six months ago my physician prescribed PhenyoCaffein, audi since th6n, by their u*e, I have not had a severe headache, being
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